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NICE!
I redecorated
guys guys guys if everyoe wrote a post and gave a shit it would be figured
out it isnt htat hard everyone input and answer shit even if its not directly
asked to that person get this post movin annies great shit but ice is so horny
theres a line of hoes outside my place,lol lets get to the basics and face
it,thanks
pop rock are you using hoppes # 9 and have you had anyone you know
successfully made ice? im gonna go with the jar way kingford o.g. coals
crushed nickels, high grade ammon hydroxide 29% and only hoppes # 9 do
you have a any other ideas or ways and or recipes includiong the amounts of
each initial ingredient, heat, cold or any vital info, thanks any info you give
youll get back with the know how of how to do it that will pay off in the end
thanks
cold rain I tried your glass synthisis but all I can get to form on my brown
beer botol is an oily splater any sugestions
hey if you take ammonia nitrate and cush it up and mix it in with ammonia
hydroxide does it make it more so like anhydrous ammoonia or will that make
it any better for ice? maybe thats a dumb question just wondering,thnaks
whobla, have you ever done this or know forsure, does it need the nickels to
make it work or is that optional, does it need to be cool, hot or consistant
temp also is that the charcoal you would use and is that diff. than activated
charcoal? do you have to have anyhydrous ammonia mixed in with the
charcoal as well? what is a good ingredient amount to go by? i heard 1lb.
charcoal 32 fl oz. ammonia 16 gun blue does that sound accurate? thnkas
man
Well the ammonia should be mixed in with the charcoal *kindsford orginal*
which u have to break it up first buy a small bag run it over to get it crused or
someshit then put it in the cooler with the nickels already on the bottom a roll
of nickels #9 gun bluing 4 oz's of it ammonia anhydrous would be best then
of course hang the strings and after u put in the ammonia fill it 3 quarters
and let it settle for a while so its its all on the bottom then put on the top with
the strings going down in it keeping the strings about 1.5 to 2 inches away
from the carcoal etc bury it and let it sit
HP(O)(OH)2 what do you mean man, are you saying the ammonia isnt mixed
in with the charcoal and gun blue cause it seems it just needs the hydrogen
gause to make it work and the nickels come on guys lets figure this out read
the past posts from mr. crystal and that oother guy .......? somone told me
once the ammonia isnt mixed in but just in there seperated not to mix all 3
together any help is good, peace
well for my facts i guarantee my way 100% i use to make it all the time my
way is annie and i know a copule others but not sure if they work which im
sure they will cause there other manufacteruers ways that know what the
fuck there doing
who bla and asdaf lets get to the bottom of this icecream or atr least what
you know as far as facts go......please thanks guys other than that this site
seems to be at a snails pace, peace
evryone do some research or give there ideas on ice in the pickle jar all the
details, even if its just what youve heard, thnks
anyone heard to put nickels in the bottom of the jar for ice, also what kind of
charcoal is good for the jar method? what do you think about 29% ammonia
hydroxide over store bought 5-10% AMMON HYDROX.? anyone heard hoppes
gun blue only? hot or cold tempatures for the jar? why do some people bury it
anyone know any of this it would be great, thanks
ya i tried it and only pulled a ball out of it if i was lucky evry 20 mins i shook it
sortof then i got the idea to shake the fuc out of it its a risky process kinda
the batteries the gas off very smokey ya i prob messed up barely but it went
smooth but the shit wasnt fire like the icecream ive had is asdaf , who bla
anyone give me a few pointers on the icecream, do you think theres sulfuric
acid involved any help is good help , thnks
ya i thought the 2 liter way tastes like shit doesnt smoke and tastes like a oily
starter fluid,lol but anyways i got all the goods for the icecream if you could
throw a lesson on what you know id appreciate it and all the other help you
have been,peace
ill talk about the gun blue and charcoal 2morrow i dont have much time but
for the lithium strips and to cut them apart or rip them up or whatever i dont
hoenslty think its a good idea well i know when making annie you want to use
the stripos with in 10 seconds after u unravel them cause it'll be stronger
anyways i dont know about the 2 liter method maybe it works and before you
go trying to make the annie leave a post here if u need any other ?'s
Sorry dj im not sure about the 2 liter process i have never done it that way
but if u scroll farther down u will see how to make meth from my post before
that is called anie which you use anyhydrous ammonia and wtih my way is
what imeant by the hose is after u got the bottles set poor a lil sulfuric acid in
the bottle and with some salt to get the reaction and blow from 1 end and
have the other end of the hose just barely underneath the coleman fuel and
ur dope will start to form and drop but before you get the bottles have atleast
3 bottles 1 for the sulfuric acid and put a hose from that bottle to another
bottle that has epson salt in it so if the sulfuric acid goes threw the hose
which it will it will absorb the acid in the epson salt and make sure not to let
the sulfurc acid run into the coleman fuel where the dope is you can get this
hose at wal-mart its clear by the fish tanks and shit well any more ?'s just ask
i been out of town is why i havent answered anybodys ?'s
hey
any of you guys talking about "ice" anybody know if it takes nickles and it has
to be a specific gun blue and charcoal any details thanks
hi
hey does anyone know if 80% humidity in the air could be bad and cause a
safety issue when making dope
who bla, you wrote this is this for the gass off procedure: you can use muratic
acid but i prefer sulfuic acid , salt or alumnimum foil depending on which acid
u use aluminum for muratic salt for sulfuric. do you put aluminum foil in with
the hydrchloric acid (muriatic acid) just like you would with the iodized salt
and sulfuric acid? is it the same situation just a diff. option, cause i might
have a little harder time finding sulfuric
hey will hydrochloric acid do the trick at all with the salt and the gas off in the
end or whats the quik trick ordering would take to long, where can i get liquid
fire or a similar product, any help is good help anything i can find isnt pure
enough i dont think thanks
hey is there a replacment for the liquid fire game day is just around the
corner where is a chem store or anything acceptabole is fine thanks
liquid fire is sulfuric acid.... you can order that online or at chem store...... its
not hard to find....
whats just like liquid fire or where can i buy liquid fire thansks a mill asdaf,
peace
great site
Dj, just make sure there is no moisture in or around the 2 liter and that you
realease the pressure when needed also that the lithium is good idea to have
them cut up so that it reacts btter with the solution....
the reason why you keep the cap on and have it biuld pressure and then
release pressure is because you dont want air really getting into the reaction,
on gas going out.. if you understand what Iam saying...
ok guys the sodium hydroxide crystals should work fine, just scoop a good
amount into the cap I would say.... the gas shoud just go into the 1 liter and
then you shoudl shake it up.... the lithium should not be in the 1 liter because
after your reaction is done, you filter the 2 liter with coffee filters into the 1
liter...
do you rip up the lithuim stips or can you put it in hole, when the dope gets
gassed off in the end is the lithium strips still in the dope or do you remove
them ? ya is the fumes strong enough when it rolls when you release the
pressure to burn your hands or is it barable
hey who bla and asdaf, seriously you know asdafs 2 liter bottle way whats the
only ways it could explode im not stupid and i know the water and lithium is a
no no and to use a funnell and all that mumbo whats a heads up to be aware
of is the fumes intence? it all seems simple bleed the air out more lye every
20 mins for 2 hrs. etc. do i need anyting thing for protection? when you gas
off does the tube have to go down into the dope or just in the bottle and the
gas meet up with the dope...any help is great thanks guys
hey who bla, seriously you know asdaf 2 liter bottle way whats the only ways
it could explode im not stupid and i know the water and lithium is a no no and
to use a funnell and all that mumbo whats a heads up to be aware of is the
fumes intence it all seems simple bleed the air out more lye every 20 mins
for 2 hrs. etc. when you gas off does the tube have to go down into the dope
or just in the bottle...any help is great thanks
i couldnt answer that honestly man i have no damn idea about that method
only know a few that works i can give u the other ways only reason why im
not doing the annie is cause i dont want to rob the anyhydrous anymore and
the other way is easier which another manufacturer told me about it so im
sure it worked i know quite a few of them
asdaf, do you know of a good product in place of liquid fire containing sulfuric
acid thanks
who bla you know the crytal form sodium hydroxide it the asme as the liquid
fire but what would be similar as for the 1 cap of liquid fire per 20 min. while
letting it roll while cookin? any idea
Get atleast 2 boxes everytime and if you know somebody you trust see if
they will ride with you but go in right after each other and get the pills i
wouildnt get no more then 2 boxes at a time but you can just go to all the
pharmacys so i use to get 3 at a time before they started cracking down on it
at every pharmacy and since i lived in kc there was quite a few of them
is the sodium hydroxide crystals ok? how would you go as for a cap full every
20 min. thanks so much
hey bro if you have say 150 pill scan you downsize the whole deal or is it
pretty much as write and the 120mg pills come in 20 ct. boxes how many
boxes do you think you can get at once and how long do you have t wait ot
get another box thanks hope im not killin you with the ?'s peace
cold packs are like 2 bucks....its not the reusable ones you need, its the one
time use only.. is is an example..
http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?
pid=13110&catid=742&trx=GFI-0-EVGR11695&trxp1=742&trxp2=13110&trxp3=1&trxp4=4&btrx=BUY- GFI-0-EVGR11695
i think sulfuric acid is what sets off the ice synthesis, anyone????? asdaf, what
item is the sodium hydroxide crystals at lowes what department is it
plumbing for drains do u know, those ice packs aint cheap damn!
asdaf i mean for the pickle jar ice the reason why noone is getting anything
do u think it is because a cap ful of sulfuric acid isnt being added what aould
happen do u think with gun blue, charcoal, ammonia nickels, strings jarred up
but 1st a cap full of sufuric acid would there be a narly reaction ?
Cool site
is the sodium hydroxide crystals ok to put in there how would you go as for a
cap full every 20 min. also ph up at pet co supposedly is pure supposedly
for the sodium hydroxide they sell at lowes its in crystal form......but its pure
sodium hydroxide.. the cap of sulfuric acid goes into the iodized salt to create
the HCl gas..
1 cap full of liquid fire (sulfuric acid) i think thats what causes the gases and
the reaction anyone?????!??!??!?!??!? thanks
not to mention this bottle way sounds bad ass i think the pickle jar way works
with sudless ammonia, hoppes #9 blue and nickels and activated charcoal,
then the liquid fire sets it off lid it up quik with the strings hanging 30 days
later it should be done what do you all think other than that im locating the
ingreds for the bottle idea, peace best opinion maybe a heat pad under it 4
fl.oz ammnia, 4 oz charcoal, 2 oz. hoppes blue ???????? other than that asdaf
hey what onther brand drain opener would you use red devil is off the market
and nothing else some far has sodium hydroxide, and for the ice packs are
they sold in first adi kits or whats the easiest for these this is all i really need
thanks
hey i just read that the heptane is in all starter fluids pyroil premium being
the highest ether content 60% is this good and is it the big cans thnks
asdaf, hey man on the starter fluid it all has other shit in it other than the di
ethyl ether like N-heptane, and others haveoil or pertroleum as fo the diethyl
ether there is 60 % in most starter fluids wheich is the one to use do you
think, thnks
cap im sorry and have you dont this yourself, peacei used to fuck around with
dry ice bombs 2 liter bottles can take som much pressure and for the litium
batt. thingy i got that handled
thats cool, whats the hardest part about this ,im real clever and precise im
not too worried and unsterstand this all if i just buy 1 gallon jug of sulfuric
acid should i just use a car for measure off a bottle similar to liquid fire , and
same with the red devil lye to be precise on measurement , tnkas
the key to gasing your product is that your have your freebase in the 1 liter
and have the salt in the 20z and have a tube going from the 20z to the 1 liter
and have a reaction occur in the 20oz with salt and sulfuric acid that will
create HCl gas and you want the gas to go into the 1 liter which come in
contact with the freebase and cause the meth to become into a sold form
that causes the snow effect..
just follow the directions... the water should be the last thing you put in after
everything else has mixed.
CORRECTION when you put the 2 caps of water also important that i forgot
make sure your ether is in there first with the ammonium
one more thing I take no responsiblity if you do someting wrong and cause
yourself harm guys.... if I were you have someone that know chemistry do it
first and let them show you......this realy create pressure in the 2 liter
because it causes it to bubble when its rolling.... I would recommend you go
to other sites or get more informaiton about how this works so that you are
confident.... be careful.
when you put the 2 caps of water in there make sure you already have the
ammonium nitrate, the pills (crushed) the lithium, and lye in the 2 liter in
there and it swirled around, the water should make the reaction bubble....
the ice packs come with a bag with another big within it that contains the
ammoniun nitrate, you have to measure that ammoniun nitrate to one cup... I
believe one pack should be enough..
starter fluid has to have diethyl ether as its contents.... and most of this stuff
you can get at home depot
red devil lye is not availabe anymore, but lye is sodium hydroxide so if you
find another drain cleaner with sodium hydroxide then your in business
ok guys i got it, thanks a million asdaf just a few questions is red devil lye
brand and liquid fire the ony brand to use if so is it easy to find? also for the
starter fluid is pyroil good someone mentioned it i knew, other than that if
you have any other tidbets share them with me even on the last few posts i
left id really appreciate it, the ship is about to leave dock thanks again
hey ya do you put the tubing into the stuff or just alittle ways through the lids
on the 1 liter and the 20 oz. how many ice packs do you think that would be
for the ammonium thanks
im sorry 2 cap fulls to top off the mixture in the 2 liter but could you clear up
those other questions please
the first place if, when making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red
phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete
reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. This will be a
hassle for some, because the obvious procedure to follow is to use the water
extract of the ephedrine pills to make the HI in. The way around the
roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine
pill extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the
production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of
heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to
the red phosphorus-water mixture.
To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of
ephedrine hydrochloride (or PPA-HCl). The use of the sulfate salt is
unacceptable because HI reduces the sulfate ion, so this interferes with the
reaction. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml
of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be
prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red
phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic
acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . I
can tell you that experiments have shown that one molar HI is ineffective at
reducing ephedrine to meth. The 47% acid mentioned above is a little over
3.5 molar. I would think that so long as one is over 3 molar acid, the reaction
will work.
the cold packs you use that you break the bag within the bag to create the
cold.. one of the bags has the ammonium nitrate...
Abstract
point out some of the more common myths, and provide rational
explanations.
Disclaimer
Revision History
1.1 - Jan 3, 2005 - by Erowid : Minor updates, added version history, updated
disclaimer .
1.0 Apr 15, 1996 - First public release, by deadlock at paranoia.com.
Overview
Terminology
names, rather than by "street names", since the street names do not have a
one-to-one correspondence to actual chemicals. For example, the term
"speed" can mean methamphetamine or amphetamine. The term "ice" is
generally considered to apply to 4-methyl-aminorex, but is often used to refer
to relatively pure (and in some cases, not so pure) forms of
methamphetamine.
Pharmacology
This is one of the most difficult sections to write, partially because there is
very little "science" involved. The literature gives conflicting reports, due to
the fact that many criteria are subjective, and probably also due to confusion
over terminology.
Administration
Onset
Onset can be immediate (in the case of injection), or can take as long as 3040 minutes if ingested orally.
Duration
Plasma Life
The length of time that methamphetamine will stay in the plasma (blood) is
between 4 to 6 hours. It can be detected in the urine one hour after use and
up to 48 hours after use.
Dosage
A toxic reaction (or overdose) can occur at relatively low levels, 50 milligrams
of pure drug for a non-tolerant user. Different peoples' metabolisms work at
different rates, and drug strengths vary, so there is no way of stating a "safe"
or "unsafe" level of use.
Effects
The physical effects are almost assuredly due to interactions between the
amphetamine structure and human physiology, probably due to the similarity
to adrenaline (epinephrine).
Mental capacity is not diminished directly by the drug. In fact, some studies
have shown slight increases in mental capacity on simple tasks. It has been
prescribed for attention deficit disorder, among other things.
Confusing reports here tend to center around the effects of fatigue on mental
capacity.
Chemistry
Molecular Information
Naming
Previous name:
d-N,alpha-dimethylphenethylamine
Alternate Names:
d-N-methylamphetamine
d-deoxyephedrine (e.g. right-handed ephedrine, minus an oxygen)
d-desoxyephedrine
1-phenyl-2-methylaminopropane
d-phenylisopropylmethane
methyl-beta-phenylisopropylamine
Trademarks:
Not available.
Methamphetamine Hydrochloride:
You will notice that the salt form is much more common. This is for
physiological reasons. The same reaction which attracts the free base to HCl
could also attract it to other molecules, causing irritation and other
symptoms.
Trademarks:
Formula
Hill Convention:
C10H15N
Molecular Weight
149.24
Percent Composition
170-175 degrees C
Chirality
Discuss other opinions (some say chirality does not matter, etc.)
Synthesis
Industrial Methods
(add references)
Reduction of ephedrine or pseudoephedrine
Reducing condensation product of BMK and methylamine
Synthesis from D-phenylalanine
Field Methods
General
Assuming you don't have amphetamine lying around, an easy synthesis with
a very high yield is to reduce the condensation product of phenylacetone and
methylamine. The benefit of this method is that different amines can be used
to produce novel N-alkyl amphetamines (ethamphetamine, tertbutylamphetamine, etc.)
From Ephedrine or Pseudoephedrine
Hydrogenation starting with (-) ephedrine, whether direct or via the halide,
will give d-meth. If you start with dl-ephedrine, you get dl-meth.
Reduction With Hydroiodic Acid and Red Phosphorus
From: lamontg@u.washington.xxx (Lamont Granquist)
In some reductions, the need for HI is dispensed with just by mixing red
phosphorus and iodine crystals in a water solution. The red phosphorus then
goes on to make HI by the above mentioned process. With a small amount of
due care, this is an excellent alternative to either purchasing, stealing, or
making your own pure hydroiodic acid.
This method has the advantage of being easy to do. It was formerly the most
popular method of making meth from ephedrine. Now red phosphorus is on
the California list of less restricted chemicals, so an increased level of
subterfuge is called for to obtain significant amounts. One might think that
this is easily gotten around by making your own red phosphorus, but this is a
process I would not want to undertake. Ever hear of phosphorus shells? I
would much rather face the danger of exploding champagne bottles. Those
who insist on finding out for themselves, will see Journal of the American
Chemical Society, volume 68, page 2305. As I recall, the Poor Man's James
Bond also has a formula for making red phosphorus. Those with a knack for
scrounging from industrial sources will profit from knowing that red
phosphorus is used in large quantities in the fireworks and matchmaking
industries. The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red
phosphorus.
Another problem with this method is that it can produce a pretty crude
product if some simple precautions are not followed. From checking out
typical samples of street meth, it seems basic precautions are routinely
ignored. I believe that the by-products in the garbage meth are
iodoephedrine, and the previously mentioned azirine. If a careful fractional
distillation is done, these products can be removed. They can be avoided in
the first place if, when making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red
phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete
reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. This will be a
hassle for some, because the obvious procedure to follow is to use the water
extract of the ephedrine pills to make the HI in. The way around the
roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine
pill extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the
production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of
heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to
the red phosphorus-water mixture.
To do the reaction, a 1000 ml round bottom flask is filled with 150 grams of
ephedrine hydrochloride (or PPA-HCl). The use of the sulfate salt is
unacceptable because HI reduces the sulfate ion, so this interferes with the
reaction. Also added to the flask are 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ml
of 47% hydroiodic acid. This same acid and red phosphorus mixture can be
prepared from adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red
phosphorus in 300 ml of water. This should produce the strong hydroiodic
acid solution needed. Exactly how strong the acid needs to be, I can't say . I
can tell you that experiments have shown that one molar HI is ineffective at
reducing ephedrine to meth. The 47% acid mentioned above is a little over
3.5 molar. I would think that so long as one is over 3 molar acid, the reaction
will work.
When one day of boiling under reflux is up, the flask is allowed to cool, then it
is diluted with an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered
out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work to get out all the red
phosphorus, but real filter paper is better. The filtered solution should look a
golden color. A red color may indicate that all the phosphorus is not yet out. If
so, it is filtered again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the
next batch. If filtering does not remove the red color, there may be iodine
floating around the solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of
sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate.
The next step in processing the batch is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye
solution is mixed up and added to the batch with shaking until the batch is
strongly basic. This brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of
the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all
the meth has been converted to the free base.
With free base meth now obtained, the next step, as usual, is to form the
crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls of
toluene is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual.
If the chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene extract will
be clear to pale yellow. If this is the case, the product is sufficiently pure to
make nice white crystals just by bubbling dry HCl gas through the toluene
extract as described in Chapter 5. If the toluene extract is darker colored, a
distillation is called for to get pure meth free base. The procedure for that is
also described in Chapter 5. The yield of pure methamphetamine
hydrochloride should be from 100 to 110 grams.
Lithium-Ammonia Reduction
Procedure:
All the chemicals were reagent grade, with no special treatment of the
tetrahydrofuran (THF), and the atmosphere above the condensed ammonia
was not flushed with nitrogen gas.
The l-ephedrine was added drop wise to the lithium ammonia solution over a
period of approximately 10 minutes with stirring. When all of the l-ephedrine
had been added, ammonium chloride was added slowly to the solution. The
flask was removed from the cooling bath, and the condensed ammonia was
allowed to warm to room temperature and evaporate from the flask through
the side necks.
When most of the ammonia had evaporated, water was added to the
remaining solution until it cleared and any remaining lithium metal was
decomposed. The remaining solution was removed from the flask to a
separatory funnel, where the aqueous layer was discarded. The THF layer
was dried with magnesium sulfate, and the hydrochloride salt of the
methamphetamine was made by bubbling hydrogen chloride through the THF.
Results:
This may be so (in fact I read the same article), but typically a water quench
leads to the alcohol, which is what we were trying to get rid of to start with.
Also, if one were using Na rather than Li (Na is the Birch, I too forget the Li
named reduction), adding water to quench will *definitely* be exciting,
particularly considering the flammability of THF or ether.
Apparently they were following the guys handwritten notes. It would have
been even more interesting had they used the real Birch method, using Na,
especially when they tried the water quench ;>)
Yep - apparently that would be the case. As well, any extra Li (or Na if doing
the straight Birch method) would convert to the Hydroxide, which might fuck
the product up a bit.
I bet you they *did* do that the first time, and then, after they replaced that
wing of the lab, they decided not to "publish" those results ;-).
From Phenylalanine
These are methods that are subjectively evaluated to be less useful, but still
may serve as interesting lessons in applied chemistry.
Synthesis from Amphetamine
Let me know how bromobenzene + acetone + NaOH turns out. I'm interested
in this since I haven't seen it anywhere else (unlike some people, I don't have
the Abstracts in my closet :)
Make sure to use an EXCESS of acetone, because 1 its more readily available
and 2 it will prevent any diphenyl/triphenyl/xphenyl acetone from forming.
Hell, if your making straight amphetamine, you could even just go with
acetone as the solvent too, if you could come up with a good way to separate
the 2-aminopropane you'd make with the amphetamine. Given that this gunk
has a bp of 33 or 34 degrees at standard pressure, it shouldn't be too hard.
Smells like ammonia though... maybe you should "catch" it in HCl water when
you distill.
As with any distillation there will be some left over. Never fear,
2aminopropane (or "isopropylamine") is water MISCIBLE. Yes, the BASE form
is miscible w/ H2O! Amphetamine BASE is only "slightly" soluble in water, so
if your really a purist you can dissolve your "mostly amphetamine some
2aminopropane" in ether and backwash with water maybe ONCE. Then
precipitate the crystals with dry HCl or H2SO4?
Question is, how much ammonia and reducing agent are you willing to waste
on making 2aminopropane?
Purification by Crystallization
I wouldn't suggest ethanol or acetone as they tend to easily collect H2O; this
can happen unexpectedly and when it does, their solvency power will greatly
increase, redissolving your crystals. Be careful as methanol is toxic; don't get
it on you or breathe the fumes.
amphetamine
ephedrine
pseudoephedrine
phenylalanine
Street Knowledge
sulfur.
PURPLE: Iodine from a phosphorus-iodine reaction was not washed out.
GREEN: Copper (or other metallic) salts somehow made their way in to the
mixture, probably due to the reaction vessel used in the manufacture.
BROWN: Oxidized red coloring (see above), or tablating agent was present in
the reduction.
Sometimes "speed" is present as waxy rocks that almost seem wet, but do
not dry out properly. I am not sure what the cause of this is, but its most likely
some form of oil, either formed in the reaction or left over from a very poor
solvent. It may or may not be harmless depending upon what it is. This oil is
often removed with acetone, but ethyl-ether would be better suited for this as
it dries faster.
Pure methamphetamine HCl melts at around 170c (338f ). The crystals can be
carefully chopped and mixed with sodium carbonate, and when the resulting
powder is heated (and the methamphetamine HCl melts) CO2 and
methamphetamine base vapor is given off. This is probably one of the more
effective ways of smoking meth if you are careful, however the hydrochloride
salt is often the form smoked as the base form is often an oil and is difficult to
store, transport, and work with. Smoking the HCl form is OK if you don't mind
a small quantity of pyrolysed drug.
RESULT:
Same as Vicks: You've been ripped off ! -or- there's so much unchanged
ephedrine as to cancel the dextrorotary effects of the meth (l-ephedrine,
when reduced, is dextrorotary (see explanation elsewhere)
"Meth Oil" ??
"Speed Bumps"
Refers to the pimples that heavier users get, or the scabs and sores where a
person has picked off bits of skin while they were really strung out.
Incorrect Syntheses
Phrack Magazine
Take a ball about the size of a lead pellet, and wrap it in tissue, and swallow,
or you can put it in capsules and use it. You can smoke it, mix it with vitamin
B-12, and snort it like cocaine. You can also sell it, for about $65-70.00 a
gram, and don't forget to cut it. Remember, this is pure stuff!!
List of chemicals and materials
Sodium Hydroxide--> This, you probably already have. It's called "lye" at
most places; it's drain cleaner.
Ethyl Ether--> You'll probably have to make this. Don't worry, it's a breez Just
go to your local K-mart or Auto parts store, and get a can of that "STARTING
FLUID" it comes in a spray can. It's used for cold weather starting of gasoline
engines.
"VICKS" nasal inhalers--> USE ONLY VICKS!! No other kind will work that I
know of. These are at any drug store or grocery, etc.. You need 12 of em, but
don't buy em' by the dozen, unless its winter time, then you can just say yer
from some nursing home, and you're stockin up for the patients. Otherwise
buy em' 2 at a time, if possible. Get a friend to help you. The druggists at the
drug store usually will know what's goin on if you buy quantity.
LIST OF EQUIPMENT
coffee filters
one small jar with a top
one Pyrex baking dish
one glass test tube.
-==*(> N O T I C E <)*==-
PLEASE! DON'T SMOKE IN THE SAME ROOM WHEN YOU DO THIS. OPEN A
WINDOW IN THE ROOM IF POSSIBLE. FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY.
THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN TESTED AND THIS IS T BEST WAY TO DO IT. DON'T
TAKE SHORTCUTS, AND DON'T EVEN START TO DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE
ABOUT 3 HOURS SPARE.
PREPARING ETHER!
Take one of the small bottles and spray starter fluid in it till it looks half-full.
Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5
minutes. Then, draw off the top layer with the eyedropper, and throw away
the water layer. Repeat this until you have about 3 oz. of ether. Put the cap
on it, and put it in the refrigerator if you can. (If you can't, don worry about it)
You'll use this in the procedure below.
THE TRIED AND TRUE HOME PRODUCTION METHOD
Break open the inhalers, a pair of real sharp scissors does this good. Place the
cottons that were inside in a jar and close the lid. (Remember you use all 12
cottons.)
In the bowl, combine 1- 1/3 oz. water and 2/3 oz. muriatic acid. Shred cottons
in this solution, and knead for 5 minutes with hands. (ALWAYS BE SURE
THERE'S CLEAN RUBBER GLOVES on your hands.) You can do it bare-handed if
you' got tough skin. Squeeze all juice out of filters after you knead, and throw
em away.
Filter the remaining liquid into the quart jar. It will be necessary to this several
times to get that awful smelling oil out. The chemicals in the inhalers have
been bonded to the HCl, and the oils have been filtered off. Throw the filters
away.
Pour enough of the solution into a small bottle to fill it 1/3 full. Save any
leftover juice for the second batch.
Pour 1/4 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle and agitate. Do this
carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off a gas. Repeat this step
until the mixture remains cloudy.
Fill the bottle from step (5) up the rest of the way with ether. Cap the bottle,
and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose ever molecule
of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible.
Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the
side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible.
Remove the top layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the
middle layer in it. Save the top layer, and throw the rest away.
Fill a bottle half-way with water, and about 10 drops of acid. Pour the top
layer from step (8) into the bottle, and cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes.
When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has
now been bonded to the HCl/water mixture.
If there is anything left from step (3), repeat the procedure with it.
Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this o the
stove, but I have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like
the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the
remaining crystals will be Methamphetamine.
Some notes:
It is very easy to become delirious off the ether fumes, so be sure you are
well ventilated, I mean it!!!
Small, aspirin, or experiment bottles seem to work the best for smaller
batches. The measurements are not exact, so you don't have to be either.
notes In step 9, be sure you don't use too much water. Remember, this is the
water you have to use to evaporate.
==Phrack Inc.==
There are better recipes out there but if you cant get your hands on sodium
borohydride and a reflux condenser then don't even mess with this recipe!
One, from Phrack magazine, is the "tried and true method" for prepping meth
from Vick's nasal inhalers. Vick's nasal inhalers contain "l-desoxyephedrine,"
another name for "l-methamphetamine." The l- isomer of methamphetamine
is the relatively inactive one, usable as a (mild) nasal decongestant. The disomer is the one that every one wants and that Uncle Sam has declared is
just too cool for any one except doctors.
The procedure described would extract the l-meth from the inhalers and
collect it and that's it. I'm sorry, but the Isomer Fairy can't wave her magick
wand and reverse the chirality of the molecule. The only way to change
between the two isomers is to oxidize the l-meth into phenylacetone,
condense it with methylamine, then reduce it. Sorry, but soaking inhalers in
HCl then separating the "juice" with Et2OH just won't do it. You'll get l-meth
and that's that.
The same recipe (for extraction of l-isomer), reformulated:
NaOH - also called lye - can be obtained from supermarkets in the "drain
cleaner" section. "Red Devil Lye" recommended.
Ethyl Ether - aka Diethyl Ether - Et-0-Et - can be obtained from engine starting
fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl
ether content", such as Prestone.
Distilled water - it's really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff
from the tap. Do things right.
List of equipment
a glass eyedropper
three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz., but not important)
one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might
want to label it as ether)
one should be clear (and it can't be the marked one)
a Pyrex dish (the meatloaf one is suggested)
a glass quart jar
sharp scissors
clean rubber gloves
coffee filters
a measuring cup
measuring spoons
Preparing your reagents
WARNINGS: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Do not use
ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anaesthetic and
can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much.
Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks halffull. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5
minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate
the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the
eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the
ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of
ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other
bottle and let it stand.
Extracting l-desoxyephedrine
Break open the inhalers, a pair of real sharp scissors does this well. Place the
cottons that were inside in a bottle (the unmarked one) and close the lid. I
use 6 cottons.
In the Pyrex dish, combine 2/3 oz. water and 1/3 oz. muriatic acid. Shred
cottons in this solution, and knead for 5 minutes with your gloves on.
Squeeze all juice out of filters after you knead, and discard them. This step
bonds the HCl to the meth, forming the HCl salt (what you want). The salt is
soluble in water, and thus dissolves.
Filter the remaining liquid into the quart jar. It will be necessary to this several
times to get the awful smelling oils (check the packaging if you are interested
in which ones). The chemicals in the inhalers have been bonded to the HCl,
and the oils have been filtered off. Discard the filters and clean the Pyrex
dish. Remember to wet the filters with distilled water before you pour,
otherwise you'll lose some product.
Pour enough of the solution into the clear bottle to fill it 1/3 full. Save any
leftover juice for the second batch.
Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle and agitate. Do this
carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas and/or
steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air; avoid any flames as usual.
Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the
HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrin e) again.
Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For
3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so.
Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the
bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every
molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause
the free base to dissolve into the ether (it -is- soluble in ether).
Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the
side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle
should be clear.
Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get
any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.
Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way. and about 5 drops of
muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove
the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the
HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ethersoluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step
11!
If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.
Evaporate the solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the
stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but I have found
that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot
water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be
Methamphetamine HCl.
If you microwave it, I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. If it starts
"popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can
put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven
heating, anyway.
First Batch: 120 mg Meth HCl
Estimated: 300 mg (100% of theoretical, disregarding HCl)
Ethyl Ether:
Inhalers:
$ 1.59
$19.73
Eyedroppers:
$ 1.09
Pyrex dish:
$ 3.92
$ 2.79
Catalytic Reduction
Your post was interesting, but this is not quite true. Direct hydrogenation over
Thus making the intermediate halide via SOCl2, like you mentioned, is
unnecessary.