Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Smokemaster at Nueskes
June 1st-5th, 2016
zingermanscampbacon.com
Pretty much every morning for the last 34 years, the Deli kitchen crew has begun its day by cooking many pounds of Nueskes
amazing applewood smoked bacon! The same can be said for the Roadhouse over the past 13 years. Their wonderful product
graces the menus at the Deli and the Roadhouse, shows up on sandwiches, in Bakehouse breads and Creamery pimento cheese.
Its a regular feature in our Mail Order bacon of the month club. Its safe to say that without Nueskes, Zingermans would be a
very different place today!
Its also safe to say that without the work of Mike Zoromski to design, build, and manage the artisan smokehouses in which all
that bacon gets smoked, Nueskes would be a pretty different place as well. To get a look, so to speak, behind the smokehouse
door weve gotten Mike to make a rare public appearance at Camp Bacon this year! What follows is an interview with him, and a
chance to hear some behind-the-scenes, behind-the-smokehouse sense of what makes the Nueske's smoking so special. Come to
Camp Bacon 2016 and meet Smokemaster Mike in person!
ARI:
How did you get involved with smoking? How did you get
involved with Nueske's?
ARI: What are some of the things that distinguish artisan smoking the way you do it at Nueske's from the commercially smoked
meats that people are used to buying in the supermarket?
ARI: What are some of the things that go into building a great
smokehouse?
ARI: Many consumers love bacon but don't really understand the
details of the smoking process. I know some of the details will be
proprietary, but can you take us novices through the process of
smoking?
MIKE:
There are three basic cycles in almost every smoke process. There is a drying cycle, where you might have more of an
open damper setting with smoke, and you slowly bring up the
temperature. Then there are some critical meat temperature
ranges that you need to get through in a certain amount of time
for food safety reasons. During that time you would have a more
closed damper to hold the heat and humidity in, and you are getting a lot of smoke penetration into the meat. I have looked at
the product during these early cycles, and you never believe that
the product will end up with the beautiful deep color that it does
at the end, but the smoke and flavor is getting in throughout the
night. The last cycle in this long process is to start bringing up
the smokehouse temperatures slowly to reach your final meat
firewood, and all that time he would teach me about the different
types of wood we would be working with. One of the trees we had
worked with a lot in our area was the wild cherrywood we now
use here. The wild cherrywood is a lot different from wood than
applewood; it is a solid but light wood, with a closed grain and a
very bitter berry. When we were kids we called it a choke cherry.
When we decided to try it for our cherrywood smoked bacon, I
knew it would probably burn away faster than Applewood does.
So on my very first try in our smokers, I figured I might have to
use a little bit bigger size piece of wood than I do with applewood, and I was right on. We use that much all the time now and
the color is very good. A little lighter than applewood, which I
thought it would be, but by using the bigger pieces we get very
close the color of our applewood bacon.
I think that having that knowledge that was passed on to me
from my dad really helped me, and it still does every day when
Im picking wood for the houses. I go through and select only the
highest-quality wood and the rest goes home to my fireplace.
MIKE: Yes, very much so. In the cold winter months, you have
to control the draft more. The air is dry and it wants to get up
and out, and if you dont make those adjustments, you could end
up with lighter colored meats. Then when the cold nights switch
to the spring thaw and the frost turns to dew, we again make
adjustments. Then comes the heat and humidity of the summer.
Thunderstorms are tricky; they are unpredictable and usually
bring a quick change in temps outside. Then, when the summer
air starts to change to fall, and at the beginning there is a lot of
dew, you start to see the differences again, then when the dew
switches back to frost again, the draft in the houses start to speed
up, and then we are back to winter. If I had a choice as far as
how the houses best perform, I would pick the winter, because
we have more control over the air flow in the houses.
ARI: Nueske's has long used the applewood. Have you smoked
MIKE:
MIKE: Its funny how much your past helps you in everything you
do. I spent a lot of time with my dad logging, making pulp and
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
Antonio Fiasche
An Insightful Examination of
FOOD WRITER ADRIAN MILLER MAKES A SPECIAL GUEST APPEARANCE AT CAMP BACON
Getting a bit jaded by election politics? Ready for a fresh perspective? Like history, love to laugh,
appreciate good food? This article is for you! Adrian Miller will be presenting at this years 7th
Annual Camp Bacon. His subject: Pork: The Perennial Dark Horse Presidential Candidate. Im
forecasting it will help put some of those less-than-inspiring presidential debates out of your
mind. And I guarantee you will know a lot more about pork and its historical presence in the
White House over the past 216 years.
I first met Adrian many years ago at the Southern Foodways Alliance symposium in Oxford,
Mississippi. Paul, Alex and I flew down the year before we were going to open the Zingerman's
Roadhouse. This was fall of 2002, and the theme that year was BBQ, something we were pretty
sure was going to be a key piece of our menu. And as high as my initial expectations might have
been, they were exceeded. The food, the people, the learning, and inspiration were all exceptional. I heard Adrian speak at the symposium that year, and then again a few years later after
hed joined the board of SFA. He caught my attention with the depth of his historical knowledge,
and I laughed almost as much as I learned.
That trip was, in hindsight, a life-altering event. It was the beginning of a nearly 15-year long
relationship with an amazing non-profit, and a connection with a region of the country of
which, honestly, Id previously known relatively little. Southern Foodways does fantastic work
to bring together people of all backgrounds to study, share, and learn from the traditional
foodways of the American South. Theyve put subjects on the table like race and food, the
changing face of the South in the 21st century, the role of women, pop culture, and much more.
Ive been to just about every symposium since.
It was with all of those fantastic foods and great people in mind that we decided to create Camp
Bacon as a fundraiser for SFA seven years ago. It seemed an appropriate way to help return the
generosity of spirit that wed encountered there, and to help raise a bit of money to fund further
work so that others around the country could benefit as well. If you dont know much about
SFA, by all means log onto southernfoodways.org and do some scoping. The oral histories, the
short films its all amazing! You cant help but be engaged by their exceptional work.
You can also come to the 7th Annual Camp Bacon this year and hear what Adrian Miller has
to say. You might actually have already heard himhes been the guest speaker at two of our
11 annual African American Foodways dinners at the Roadhouse. Ill never ever forget the feeling the night he did his "Black Chefs in the White House" event on the same exact evening of
President Obama's first inauguration. When wed set up the event nearly a year earlier, neither
of us had much thought that then Senator Obama was likely to be nominated, let alone win the
general election. What a wonderful and inspiring evening! You might have read his great book,
Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One Plate at a Time. If you like food and
history, its highly recommended!
before the 1800s, it became more widely available and cheaper thanks to advances in cattle ranching, industrial butchering and commercial transportation. Beef also became the food of successful
elitesan edible example of social aspiration. This only further marginalized pork's status as a poverty or subsistence food. As Harvey Levenstein wrote in Revolution at the Table:
"The supremacy of beef provided grist for the mills of those who complained that the middle-class
American diet was too restricted... The beef and potatoes syndrome was reinforced by a disdain for pork,
almost universally available in antebellum days. Here too, the middle class followed their social superiors, who shunned fresh and salted pork and deigned only to eat an occasional slice of smoked ham.
Although its low price induced them to consume much more pork than it did the rich, in middle-class
eyes pork ranked far below not just beef, but lamb, poultry, and game as well."
Flip though the indexes of the existing cookbooks written by presidential chefs, and the latter point
made by Levenstein is painfully true. Pork dishes usually get a few lines compared to the other
meats. Even the presidential barbecue book authored by Walter Jetton, Lyndon Johnson's barbecuein-chief, only has a few pork recipes. Presidential food is at its best for state dinners at the White
House, and beef is the overwhelming centerpiece of such meals. Pork makes an occasional appearance, but it is something that is eaten more frequently during the president's private meals in the
executive residence, out of the public spotlight.
In the nineteenth century, pork's reputation also took a political hit because it was associated with
an unseemly political practice known as "pork barrel politics." In its earliest incarnation, the pork
barrel was literally a wood barrel full of salted pork that was stored for use as needed. Though
many associate its use with feeding enslaved people on plantations, the pork barrel was also used
on many farms and also to feed military personnel. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the
pork barrel became a metaphor in the 1870s for the pot of government money that is set aside to
pay for public projects. Soon, an odious practice arose in the U.S. Congress and state legislatures
where elected officials were promised, in exchange for their votes, that money would be appropriated to pay for projects in the district they represented. The logic is that by pleasing their constituents with such projects, the elected officials would get re-elected. This was very sound logic, for
many elected officials enjoyed lengthy political careers based on their ability to spend government
money in their district. Thus, "pork barrel politics" was born, and symbolized government abuse
and waste. In time, people dropped "barrel" and "politics," and "pork" became short hand for bad
government.
Despite the negativity thrown its way, pork has been able to rise to the culinary occasion.
The following is a compilation of several great moments in presidential pork history:
January 1, 1842
Our presidents, from George Washington to Barack Obama, have had their share of food fights. I
don't mean that they actually threw food at other people, but they have figuratively and self-consciously used to create and maintain their public image and wrest control of it from others when
necessary. It's astonishing how fervently the American public believes that what a president likes,
and dislikes, to eat somehow opens a window on the presidential soul. This is why in recent presidential memory, we've learned how much Ronald Reagan loved jelly beans, how much George H.W.
Bush hated broccoli, when Bill Clinton jogged to a McDonald's, how George W. Bush loves his barbecue and how Barack Obama likes to gulp down a good beer. The stakes can be high when using food
to craft a presidential persona because it all comes down to getting votes, and pork has played a
pivotal role in such endeavors.
You think I'm exaggerating? I offer as Exhibit 1 the case of President Martin Van Buren who was
successfully tarred by his political enemies as a French food-loving elitist who used golden utensils. President Van Buren's presidential rival, William Henry Harrison, drew a sharp contrast to the
incumbent president by promoting himself as someone who loved "hog, hominy and hard cider"
a meal combination that appealed to the masses of common people. Harrison's negative political
campaign was so successful that he beat the incumbent Van Buren and won the presidency. It was
the most serious case of political indigestion in presidential history. Though Harrison used pork for
electoral good or evil, depending upon your perspective, pork has not received as much presidential
press as other proteins. That's mainly because pork has lost significant status in American meals
since colonial times, mainly due to the growing popularity of beef.
Pork had some early advantages over beef in terms of making a regular appearance on the dining
tables of European colonists. Pigs are lower maintenance animals to raise than cattle. One can feed
them almost anything, they can forage for themselves in a variety of environments, they have a lot
more offspring than cattle, and almost every part of their bodies can be used for some purpose after
butchering. For these reasons, though beef was more highly prized, pork was more regularly utilized
by colonists. Thus, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, pork had a well-earned reputation
for being a subsistence-level meat, a consistent source of protein even in lean times. This doesn't
mean that all pork products were considered to be poverty food. Wealthy colonists relished eating
hams and pork shoulder as premium cuts of meat, and such preferences gave rise to the expression
"eating high on the hog." This was reference to where these cuts of meat were located on the pig as
compared to bacon, ham hocks and the feet. It's no wonder that pork cemented its "common person"
status in the American public's imagination, and that politicians recognized the benefits of larding
their public image with references to pork. After all, the masses were mostly eating pork, or could
relate to eating pork, and that's where the votes where.
Early 1920s
President Warren Harding grubs on knockwurst sausage and sauerkraut at stag parties he
hosted at the White House for his buddies.
March 1934
"Winks," President Franklin Delano Roosevelt's
Llewellin setter eats all of the ham and eggs
breakfast set out for the White House residence staff. Winks soon left the White House to
"spend more time with his family." This event,
along with others, cleared the way for Fala to
become FDR's favorite dog.
Circa 1967
A ham prepared for a White House residence
staff dinner went missing. Mary Kaltman,
President Lyndon Johnson's White House Food
Coordinator informed White House Chief
Usher J. B. West of this predicament. At first,
the employees were suspected, but no one
was implicated in the crime. A few months
later, an awful smell emanated from the staff
dining room, but no one could pinpoint the
source. Eventually, the White House engineers
removed the paneling from one of the dining
room walls to discover a decomposing ham
bone. Those involved quickly surmised that
some rats must have dragged it off the table
and absconded with the ham.
December 1, 1975
The organizers of the annual Salley (South
Carolina) Chitlin Strut sent five pounds of
uncooked, frozen chitlins (pig intestines) to
President Gerald Ford.
May 8, 1939
2000s
President George W. Bush regularly gets takeout from his favorite Texas barbecue joints for
the ride on Air Force One from his ranch in
Crawford, Texas back to Washington, D.C.
Adrian Miller is an attorney, food writer, and former Special Assistant to President Bill
Clinton. Adrian's first book, Soul Food: The Surprising Story of an American Cuisine, One
Plate at a Time, won the 2014 James Beard Foundation Book Award for Outstanding
Reference and Scholarship. Adrian's next book on African American presidential chefs will
be published in Spring 2017.
Meet Adrian Miller at Camp Bacon's Main Event, June 4th, 8am-4pm!
In terms of its culinary and political reputation, pork started to wane in the nineteenth century.
Let's first look at pork's culinary status. Though beef was an uncommon treat on American tables
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
an interview with
FIDEL GALANO
For me, one of the beauties of Ann Arbor is the plethora of powerfully interesting, creative,
cool people we have here in town. Many I get to work with, others we buy from, and still
others we get to cook for. Fidel Galano is one of the latter. I first met him fifteen years or
so ago. We did a day of ZingTrain work, teaching our approach to Servant Leadership at
the local EPA office. His official role here in Ann Arbor is as IT Director of the EPAs National
Vehicle & Fuels Emissions Laboratory. We connected during the teaching, and it turned
out, he was also a customer. Over the years Ive happily seen him at the Roadhouse, the
Deli, and the Bakehouse, and hes always told me how great his familys Cuban cooking is.
Fidel grew up in Spanish Harlem. Hes an amazing guy; a highly inspiring success story.
Never one to pass up an opportunity for good learning and good eating, Ive been suggesting for about a decade now that we bring Fidel in for a special Cuban American dinner at the Roadhouse. Finally, ten years later, its happening. In July, the Roadhouses
annual BBQ dinner will feature Fidels family cooking. And, of equal import, it will feature
Fidel, the man himself. Hell share stories of growing up in Spanish Harlem, his mothers,
grandmothers, and familys (mostly aunts) recipes, the emotional connection with that
cooking in the Cuban & Puerto Rican community, and the significance of pork in his family. I guarantee you will eat well, and leave wishing that you, too, had been born Cuban.
The man is about as apasionado (passionate) as anyone Ive ever met!
Fidel has also offered to speak and serve some amazing Cuban pork at Camp Bacon.
Which means that you have two chances to taste and savor his incredible cooking, and
two opportunities to meet the man himself and hear part of his culinary and culturally
inspiring story. I have a feeling that Camp Bacon would be worth coming to just to hear
him tell his story, and preach the positive attributes of Cuban pork cooking. Let me just
say that of all the great people Ive interviewed over the last three plus decades, Fidel
might just be the most passionate about great pork of all of them! Heres a little taste of
what Im talking about.
My dad was born in Cuba and my Mom in Puerto Rico. I was born and raised in
New York Citys Spanish Harlem community. I didnt learn to speak English 'til I was in 2nd grade, 'til
I was maybe 5 or 6 years old, mostly because I did not have to. Everyone in my neighborhood spoke
Spanish, including the mailman. I was always trouble, mostly because I was boredI was unusually
smart and articulate for a Spanish kid growing up in the middle of the ghetto. I was smart enough to
hang out with the tough kids, and I knew if I could keep em laughing I would be alright. They called
me Fi (Fee). Im very lucky. I have a great life. I met my wife Nancy when she was 15. Our local
priest got my mom to send me to a Catholic retreat when I was 14 or 15. It was a place called Grace
House at 108th Street, not too far from home. A real nice brownstone converted into a Catholic monastery and they lock you in for the whole weekend, which seemed like weeks to a teenager. So this
priest, Father Bill, hes responsible for why I got out of the neighborhood. He went all out in trying to
keep me from getting in trouble and I have to say he really helped me. Even though he gave up on me
for a while and he didnt believe me when he said I was gonna go back to school. Who would, when
you consider I was in and out of school from the second grade on up and I completely dropped out
in the 6th grade? Father Bill was blown away by my resilience when, at age 19, I told him I needed to
go back to school so I could get my family out of the neighborhood. Years later, after getting a GED
and earning a Bachelors degree, I invited Father Bill to my business school graduation. Right before
taking a group photo at graduation he said, Fi, you make me believe in God.
I knew early on that I needed to get out of the neighborhood. A lot of my friends never made it out. I
was 19, and Father Bill helped me get my GED. I really couldnt read, but I took the GED book from his
office and I studied and studied and I passed. My friend scored just a few points lower than I did and
he didnt pass. And our lives went in opposite directions. Right after getting a GED I went to college at
SUNY Binghamton. I really struggled that first summer as I was taking prep courses. I was failing and
thinking about giving up and going back to the City. But then I realized I knew what to do, because
I figured college was like working. Id been working since I was twelve and I knew that work meant
get there early, work really hard, dont watch the clock, and make the boss happy. So going to class
and studying was like going to work, and listening to the professor was just like listening to the boss,
including making the boss happy. So I applied myself as if I was working a job and I never looked
back. In my first semester I got a perfect grade point average. I was featured in a school newsletter
and I won an award. I went on to do very well, graduating with honors from SUNY Binghamtons
Thomas J. Watson School of Engineering and given an offer to go to graduate school on a fellowship.
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
Easter and Christmas. Lent was one of the only times I remember not having pork during a celebration, and thats because we could not for religious reasons. So instead we have fish fries with the
other fillers we normally had with pork, yucca chips, fried plantains and fried bananas (maduros).
When things were good in general, there was this fantastic, amazing piece of meat: pork. It was made
in many different ways. From a Lechn (roasted suckling pig), to a Pernil. The idea that we could
make a pork shoulder was soothing and comforting, because it meant things were good. When we
were kids and we knew there was a pig cooking, we knew that thered be all these derivative products coming. In addition to the main dish, the Lechn, we knew that Morcilla (blood sausage made
with rice, culantro, cilantro, garlic, and chillies), Pasteles (plantain or yucca root patty filled with
roasted pork chunks) and Pastelillos (flour-based flavor-infused turnover filled with roasted pork
chunks, capers, and any other goodies you wanted to add), would follow. We knew having a pig was
prosperous because so many dishes would be made from one, and everyone in the neighborhood
was the same way. We had one African-American family and one American Italian family in the
neighborhood, and even they wanted Cuban and Puerto Rican pork dishes.
ANN ARBORS
KING OF CUBAN PORK
GIVE THE
MEMORABLE
GIFT OF
THIS MOTHER'S DAY & FATHER'S DAY
1. Choose a class you know they'll love.
zingermanscampbacon.com
there were all these supporting things around it. You had to have slow-cooked black beans, red rice,
double-fried plantains and yucca (boiled or fried). Everything has to be supported by the pork, because
it is added in some way. We used pork to flavor almost everything, even the beans and the rice. You start
with some pork belly where you almost burn it dark brown and then you deglaze it and then it becomes
the base flavor of your beans and yellow rice. If you did not have a whole hog, then you make a pork
shoulder (Pernil). Pernil is the poor mans lechn. Its the shoulder. If you buy it right, you still get the
skin and the fat that help make the flavor we want.
I love the Pastelillos. Those are our turnovers. We make them with this dough thats infused with saffron. You add the saffron to some oil, and then add that to the dough and then you make these discs
and you fold them and seal them with the pork filling inside. Oh man! Thats prosperity! Theres no way
to make the turnovers without doing the whole pork roast through. You have to truly get a roasted
pork shoulder that you loved and you gave it that passion. You chop up the roasted pork and good
distribution of dark and white meat. Red pepper, garlic, Spanish olives, whole capers. Its the recipe Ive
perfected over the last few years. Season with cumin, salt, garlic. One of our secrets: we put sugar on
everything. A little sprinkle to give that little extra...
I love Yucca! Especially Pasteles made of Yucca. Of all the starch family, yucca is it for me! During the
holidays, my uncle, my mom, and my grandmother would make many things from Yucca, even though
money was always tight. Their cooking was so good that people would front them the cash to get a
dozen of these Pasteles. So my grandmother and my mother would turn the whole living room into a
production environment. My job as a boy was to grate plantains. My older brother was stronger so he
grated the yucca. They would make this base using a plantain or Yucca puree with some other ingredients. They take Achote (annatto seeds) with extra virgin olive oil and slowly cook it to release it, slowly
strain it to make that reddish oil, and then mix that into the batter of the Yucca, and also to coat the
inside of the rice paper or plantain tree leaf. Then you would take a big banana leaf or rice paper, and a
couple ladles of the puree and you would make a round section of it. Then you would take that roasted
pork and then you would fold it into this square. You would make a square in the leaf or on rice paper
and you would boil it in the leaf. You would get this cooked plantain or yucca. Very soft to cut, but in the
middle you had this roasted delicious pork. My grandmother would always add fat, because the flavor
was in the fat. She would also add raisins, chickpeas and other things depending on how you liked them.
That was a holiday thing! Oh man!
When youre cooking this stuff in your home, youre feeling like life is good. We knew life was good. We
were gonna eat. We were gonna celebrate food. Pork really matters to us. When I think about my youth
and what it meant to me, it was always pork as the holiday meat. I know a lot of people today think of
Christmas and they think about beef. But I cant imagine a rib roast at the holidays. Its gotta be the pork.
Without the pork it doesnt feel like were alive. The beef rib roast means nothing to me. What really
matters to me and my family is to have that Pernil or that lechn.
You can make Patelillos, Morcilla, and pig ears. My dad used to love pig ears with hot sauce. And
Chicharrn (fried pork rinds). Thats where you take pork belly and then make a rind part of it. Theyd
cut these slices into it to make more surface area. Almost every dish, rice and beans, always had a little
pork in it (mostly fat). It is pretty amazing how one product, the pig, leads to so many other products
that would not be the same without pork. Pork is amazing. Man! Its delicious! My grandmother ate pork
skin with the fat every time she cooked a pig. She didnt care. She ate, drank and smoked to the last day
of her life. I don't think she regretted any day of her life when it ended at age 80.
PACKAGE
As the winter snow piles become a distant memory, its time to celebrate the
warmth of summer with a Grillin package from Zingermans Catering. Pull up a
lawn chair and a cold beverage and let us take care of your next cookout!
For dessert we used to make Coquito. Its a coconut egg nog made with Bacardi 151. There was always
Bacardi! We used to grate coconut. It was either to make coconut flan or Coquito. All of these things
gave you a sense of were gonna be ok!!
Today, were very lucky. My kids are all doing well. They still have this great emotional connection to
the pork and the other cultural foods we make. Pork means life is good! It means were doing well! It
means its gonna be a great holiday! They have the same love of the culture and of the food. I thought
this connection would only be for us, for our family that has been exposed to it. But now my daughters
fianc, a fantastic American boy who grew up in Canton, is into it. He asks me to cook, too. And my sons
best friend is Jewish and he wants it!
I know that Nancy, my wife, and I have done well. Better than any fictional story could predict. But I
would not feel complete without that part of my culturethe food. The food with its flavors and smells
link me to the memories that define me culturally. Without the food there is no celebration there is no
feeling of prosperity, and there is no sense of culture. The memories of the food link me to who we are.
If you abandon that, the food and the memories, theres a real sadness for us. We love our culture for
many reasons, but most of all because it defines us and links us to those that made us and raised us. Our
true north is us, as Cubans and Puerto Ricans! Cuban and Puerto Rican culture, and Cuban and Puerto
Rican cooking. And pork! For me, I cant imagine success without the food of my childhood. We yearn
it. Very importantly for the Cuban in me, when you make a Lechn, we all know a Cuban sandwich is
coming next!!
Choose One:
Includes:
Grilled free-range
Amish chicken quarters in a
chile and lime marinade
Zingermans Cuban
pork served with
Bakehouse Rustic Rolls
Zingermans old fashioned potato salad
OR
Grilled free-range
Amish chicken quarters in
Zingermans own zesty BBQ
sauce
Fresh fruit
and berry salad
We are happy to provide a grill master, grill and service staff for any meal
for an additional fee, to give you a truly stress-free event.
* Pricing and menus are designed for 10 or more people. We can accommodate
smaller groups upon request. Per person price may vary.
Meet Fidel Galano at Camp Bacon's Main Event, June 4th, 8am-4pm!
Call 734-663-3400
or email catering@zingermans.com to learn more
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
I first met Mark Essig while I was speaking in Asheville. Id done some ZingTrain work for our long-time client Laurey Masterton,
who sadly passed away a few years ago. We still miss her. Laurey had arranged on that trip for me to do a dinner around the then
recently released Zingermans Guide to Better Bacon. As part of the brief, bacon-based talk I did for the dinner guests, I referenced
one of my favorite learnings from the research Id done for the book. Im fascinated by professions that no longer exist. Ice harvesting is one of them. Another is droving. Its so obscure youve likely never heard of it. But up until the advent of the railroads in the
second half of the 19th century, it was the process to get hogs from the small farms where they were raisedusually only a handful
per farmto the city where they could be slaughtered to provide pork to the nations growing urban population. Since the pigs
werent going to make the journey on their own, they needed the porcine equivalent of a chaperone. The men who did that were
known as drovers.
In the moment, the point of this story is that wherever I went to present on bacon, Id tell the story of the drovers. Not surprisingly,
barely a soul had ever even heard of them. Not shocking given that theyd been essentially extinct for well over a hundred years.
Anyway, when I spoke in Asheville that winters evening, a tall guy, to my right, raised his hand and mentioned to me that he was
very interested in the drovers! He was doing research and wanted to share information. Excited to find someone else who was
interested in obscure history, I invited him to speak at the springs Camp Bacon. It was our second annual gathering, then as now,
a fundraiser for the Southern Foodways Alliance and Washtenaw County 4H. Andre Williams came and played his marvelous 1956
hit single, Bacon Fat, that year (look it up onlineits a great piece of music!). Mark came as well and gave a fantastic talk on the
drovers.
Five years or so later, Marks research hit the bookshelves. Lesser Beasts; A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig is a fantastic
piece work on the history of the pig, from prehistoric times all the way through to the present. Its well-researched, well-written,
and super informative. As you probably know, Ive been paying close attention to culinary history, and pigs in particular, for over
three decades, and I learned a LOT from it. If you like to read, youre intrigued by pork and love to learn, add it your list ASAP. Its a
great Mothers or Fathers Day gift for any pork-loving parents in your life. To add a little outside credibility to support my claim, the
Atlanta Journal-Constitution called Lesser Beasts, SplendidEssig surveys the 10,000 year partnership of man and pig, a tumultuous affair full of accusation, fire and litigation A pleasure to read.
To whet your appetite, check out the excerpt below. Its a just small piece of the book but itll hopefully pique your curiosity. If youre
really intrigued, Mark will be presenting at this years main event for the 7th Annual Camp Bacon on Saturday June 4th. Hell also
be speaking at the Thursday evening Bacon Ball (June 2nd), our annual pork-focused special dinner at the Roadhouse.
Oh yeah, if you want read more about the drovers, you can also grab a copy of the Zingermans Guide to Better Bacon as well. A
couple of good books and some good bacon can be a marvelous way to spend a nice spring day!
Excerpted from Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble
Pig by Mark Essig. Available from Basic Books, a member of The
Perseus Books Group. Copyright 2015.
An enormous pig, belly up, is wheeled into a banquet room in
one scene of Federico Fellinis Satyricon. Trimalchio, the host,
accuses the cook of roasting the animal without first gutting it
and orders him whipped as punishment. The guests call for mercy,
so Trimalchio demands, Gut it here, now, where upon the cook
swings an enormous sword and slashes the pigs belly. The guests
recoil in horror, but the steaming mass that pours forth is not the
pigs viscera but cooked meat. Thrushes, fatted hens, bird gizzards! one character calls out. Sausage ropes, tender plucked
doves, snails, livers, ham, offal! The dispute with the cook has
been all in fun. The guests applaud, then grab hunks of meat and
begin to gorge themselves.
Fellinis film, released in 1969, stays true to its source material,
a work by Petronius written not long after the death of Christ.
In depicting Roman dining, Petronius satirized but did not exaggerate: there was no need to embellish the extravagant reality.
The dish portrayed in the film, a medley of meats hidden within a
whole hog, was known as porcus Troianus, or Trojan pig, a nod
to another great act of concealment. Petronius also describes a
whole roast pig served with hunks of meat carved into the shape
of piglets and placed along its belly, as if at suck, to show it was a
sow we had before us. Another feast featured what appeared to
be a goose and a variety of fish, all carved from pork. I declare
my cook made it every bit out of a pig, the host exclaims. Give
the word, hell make you a fish of the paunch, a wood-pigeon of
the lard, a turtle-dove of the forehand, and a hen of the hind leg!
Why he should do so is left unexplained.
In cuisine, culture, and mythology, Romans delighted in concealment and disguise, metamorphosis and transformation, and in
this they could hardly have been more different from the Jews.
The Roman Empire formed a vast, cosmopolitan civilization that
embraced and absorbed dozens of cultures. Few identities
whether of meats or of peopleremained fixed. Trimalchio, in
Satyricon, is a former slave who has won his freedom and then
attained great wealth. A man calling himself a Roman citizen
might have been born in northern Europe, Africa, or Asia Minor.
Jews, by contrast, were dedicated to marrying among themselves,
defending their small homeland, and preserving their ancient
ways.
The differences between Romans and Jews extended to food. One
people defined itself by rejecting pork, the other by embracing
it. One called the pig abominable, the other miraculous. One saw
the pig as a carrier of pollution, the other as a sign of abundance.
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
Between them, Jews and Romans set the terms that would define
the pig throughout the history of the West.
Most people in the ancient world ate vegetarian diets heavy on
grains and beans. This was the cheapest way to feed large populations. Rome was different. Although meat was expensive, Rome
was rich, and a sizable class of people had enough money to eat
it regularly.
Romans ate beef, lamb, and goat, but they preferred pork.
Hippocrates, the Greek physician, proclaimed pork the best of all
meats, and his Roman successors agreed. There were more Latin
words for pork than for any other meat, and the trade became
highly specialized: there were distinct terms for sellers of live pigs
(suarii), fresh pork (porcinarius), dried pork (confectorarius), and
ham (pernarius). According to the Edict of Diocletian, issued in
301 A.D., sows udder, sows womb, and liver of fig-fattened swine
commanded the highest prices of any meat, costing twice as much
as lamb. Beef sausages sold for just half the price of pork. After
the Punic Wars, the percentage of pig bones in Carthage doubled,
just as it had in Jerusalem under Roman occupation: Romans
kept eating pork even in arid climates such as North Africa and
Palestine, where pigs were more difficult to raise.
The richest source on Roman cuisine, a recipe book known as De
re coquinaria, or On Cooking, confirms this love of swine. Pork
dishes far outnumber those made with other meats. The section
called Quadrupeds contains four recipes for beef and veal,
eleven for lamb, and seventeen for suckling pig. Other sections
of the book offer recipes for adult sows and boars and nearly all
of their parts, including brain, skin, womb, udder, liver, stomach,
kidneys, and lungs. Archeology confirms that Romans carved up
pigs more carefully and thoroughly than they did other creatures:
pig skulls found in Roman dumps contain far more butchery scars
than the skulls of sheep and cows, evidence that butchers excised
the tongues, cheeks, and brains of pigs but not those of other
beasts.
More than half of the dishes in On Cooking are relatively modestbarley soup with onion and ham bone, for example and
within the means of much of the urban population, but others
demanded greater resources. Apicius is credited with inventing
the technique of overfeeding a sow with figs in order to enlarge
the liver, much as geese were stuffed with grain to create foie
gras. In Apiciuss recipe, the fig-fattened pig liver is marinated
in liquamena fermented fish sauce central to Roman cuisine
wrapped in caul fat, and grilled. The recipe for pig paunch starts
with this salutary advice: Carefully empty out a pigs stomach.
The cook is then instructed to fill the stomach with a mixture of
pork, three brains that have had their sinews removed, raw
eggs, pine nuts, peppercorns, anise, ginger, rue, and other seasonings. Finally, the stomach is tied at both endsleaving a little
space so that it does not burst during cookingboiled, smoked,
boiled some more, and then served.
Some of the more elaborate dishes in On Cooking fall under the
heading ofellae, which literally means a morsel of food. In one
recipe, a skin-on pork belly is scored on the meat side, marinated
for days in a blend of liquamen, pepper, cumin, and other spices,
and then roasted. The chunks of meat would then be pulled from
the skin, sauced, and served, forming bite-sized pieces that a
diner could eat by hand while reclining, the preferred posture
for Roman feasts. Another of the luxury dishes involves boiling
a ham, removing the skin, scoring the flesh, and coating it with
honey, a preparation that would not be out of place at Christmas
dinner today.
Romans had a taste for blended milk, blood, and flesh that could
make even a Gentile shudder. The Roman poet Martial had this
to say about a roasted udder of lactating sow: You would hardly
imagine you were eating cooked sows teats, so abundantly do
they flow and swell with living milk. (Elsewhere, after a meal,
Martial suffers the gluttons regret and remarks upon the
unsightly skin of an excavated sows udder.) This preference
veered into the bizarrely cruel. Some cooks, Plutarch claimed,
stomped and kicked the udders of live pregnant sows and
thereby blended together blood and milk and gore, which was
said to make the dish all the more delicious. The womb of this
poor sow was eaten as well, with the dish called vulva eiectitia,
or miscarried womb.
Seneca, the Stoic philosopher and statesman, decried such dishes
as monstrosities of luxury, and he was far from the only critic.
Roman rulers passed sumptuary laws limiting the amount that
could be spent on meals and forbidding the consumption of items
including testicles and cheeks. But the wealthy flouted such rules
because the social hierarchy couldnt function without feasts:
feasting provided the only way to learn who had grown richer
and who had lost money, who was in the emperors favor and
who had been cast out. To curtail extravagance was to deny the
very reason to feast.
...
Rome created the most sophisticated agricultural system the
world had ever known. Previously, farming had been a local
affair. Even in the great civilizations of Egypt and Mesopotamia,
production and consumption occurred within a fairly circumscribed area defined by irrigated river valleys and surrounding
rangeland. By contrast, imports from outside the Italian Peninsula
constituted three-quarters of Romes food supply.
Rome brought all of the Mediterranean world and much of
Europe within its orbit, pulling in grain from Egypt, cured meats
from Spain, olive oil from Syria, and spices from further east. The
wheat that satisfied Caesars bread dole was mostly imported
from North Africa, where it was collected as tax. Grain sufficient
to feed hundreds of thousands of people moved around the
region by ship and filled large granaries that provided insurance
against famine.
Although Romans imported grain by ship, they raised nearly all
of their livestock within Italy. They kept sheep primarily for wool
and secondarily for milk and cheese. Goats were rare, though
sometimes raised for milk. Cows offered dairy products, and oxen
pulled plows in the fields and carts on the road. Meat from these
animals was eaten, but it was usually a by-product rather than the
principal reason for raising them. Archaeologists tell us that most
butchered cattle show stress injuries to their leg bones, meaning
that they worked hard before ending up in the pot. Beef and mutton came from older animalsewes and cows whose udders had
dried up, rams and bulls who had become infertile, and oxen that
could no longer pull a plow.
Only pigs were raised exclusively for food. They were eaten when
young and therefore were far more tender than worn-out oxen.
A popular saying held, Life was given them just like salt, to preserve the fleshmeaning that pigs had no reason for living other
than to feed people. Given how much Romans loved to feast, this
was no small consideration. According to Varro, Romes most
important agricultural writer, the race of pigs is expressly given
by nature to set forth a banquet.
Meet Mark Essig at Camp Bacon's Annual Bacon Ball,
Thursday, June 2, 7pm!
WHAT GIVES
MEAT FLAVOR?
PART 1: BREED
BY VAL NEFF-RASMUSSEN
When you buy a bottle of wine, what factors do you consider? Ill bet one of the things you think about is
which grapes its made from. We expect that a Cabernet Sauvignon will taste different from a Pinot Noir or
a Chardonnay, and depending on your own taste preferences or what you want to eat with the wine you
may make different choices. How about when you buy a pork chopdo you consider the breed of the pig?
If your answer is no, youre not alone. Over the last half century, the meat industry has selectively bred
more and more standardized animals, taking the question of breed completely out of the consumers mind.
Pork is pork, right? Maybe. The vast majority of the pork that you buy at the grocery today is likely to be a
breed developed over the last few decades, so its all going to be pretty similar. Thats a big change from a
century ago. While through most of history weve bred animals to be disease-resistant, or good tempered,
or hardy, or delicious, the current trend is toward one very particular trait: the ability to convert feed into
meat as quickly as possible.
For the rest of our series of articles on what gives meat flavor,
please head to The Feed blog at thefeed.zingermans.com
Meet Val Neff-Rassmussen at Camp Bacon's Main Event, June 4th, 8am-4pm!
Zingerman's Legendary
Reuben Kit
The perfect sandwich by mail. If
you know a dad who loves real
deli fare, sending this gift will
cement your status as the most
clever, generous child they have.
Some assembly is required, but
considering it has been known
to make sober adults weep silent
tears of joy, I say its worth it.
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
SHARING ZINGERMANS
UNIQUE APPROACH
TO BUSINESS
Here at the ZingTrain office, were big fans of stages, steps, recipes and processes. One time, we documented the 5 stages of
an awesome relationship with ZingTrain! Youll find it on the
About Us page of the ZingTrain website (www.zingtrain.com).
The client featured in this edition of the newsletter, Venturity
Financial Partners from Addison, TX, might as well have been
the inspiration for every single one of those 5 stages. The
interview with Chris McKee, Founder and Managing Partner
of Venturity, that follows will reveal why!
We got a twofer, and we were off to the races from there. Coming
to ZingTrain completely changed the trajectory of our business.
After that, we brought Ann Lofgren down to Texas twice, once to
help us work with our Leadership team on Visioning, and a second time to help us roll out a program on Delivering Exceptional
Service. We felt it was important to have Ann guide us through
this process using her experience and wisdom, rather than trying to wing it on our own. We also felt her independent voice
would benefit us and facilitate more open discussion and a better result. Both turned out to be the case.
We have grown over 50% in the three years since we rolled these
out, but most importantly, its a much better place to work every
day than it was when we started the process. Were not Zingermans
yet, but every day we get a little bit closer to the great place to work
that I saw in that video that day, and my commitment to get there
is unwavering.
5. If you could give one piece of advice to a business
owner or organizational leader, what would it be?
If you dont have clearly articulated values that your whole
organization can get behind, and a mission, which is your
clearly and simply articulated purpose for being in business,
you are going to be constantly fighting an uphill battle to succeed. We simply would have never grown past the point we
were if we hadnt stepped back and gone through that process.
Its the single most important foundational thing weve done as
a team, and if I ever start another business it will be one of the
first things I do, rather than waiting 10 years like I did this time.
COMING THIS SPRING! Zingermans Guide to Good Leading, Part 4; A Lapsed Anarchists Approach to
Guide to Good Leading,
Part 4
The power of
beliefesss
si n
$29.95in bu
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
"The more I know, learn and think about Aris work, and
discover how its applied in the Zingermans Community of
Businesses, the more convinced I am that is a gem in todays
revolutionary leadership movement, dominated by two towering pioneers. These authors are Peter Block and Robert
Putnam. Aris work definitely is that same category. It will
not be long before many nations will be different as the ideas
of the ideas of these three thinkers percolate through humanity. Aris writing is very readable and continually it is spot-on
wise. His writing will change the reader.
Peter Koestenbaum, author, Leadership: The Inner Side of Greatness
Summer
Gelato
Flavors!
WE'RE RENOVATING!
AVAILABLE ALL SEASON THROUGHOUT ANN ARBOR
Zingermans Creamery has been making and selling cows milk and goats
milk cheeses for nearly 15 years now.
With a little money and a lot of great
ideas about craft cheesemaking,
John Loomis started the Creamery
at an old dairy farm in Manchester
on Sharon Hollow Road back in
2001. After just a few years there,
the travel between Manchester and
Ann Arbor (especially in the winter)
was a bit too much to justify, and the Creamery joined Zingermans Bakehouse
at what we now call Zingermans Southside in the early 2000s. Johns flagship cheese for the Creamery was Fresh Cream Cheese, which won an award
from the American Cheese Society shortly after he started making it. Over the
years John added more and more cheeses to the lineup, including more fresh
and aged mold-ripened cows and goats milk cheeses. Back in 2007, when
the Creamery was still relatively young, Aubrey Thomason left her position at
Zingermans Deli and joined the team at the Creamery, diving headfirst into
all of the hard work, challenges, and above all, joys of making cheese. In 2012
Aubrey officially became a Managing Partner in the Creamery.
Around here we talk a lot about the astounding power of positive futuring and
creating a vision of greatness. Early on in Aubreys Partnership, she and John
lead our team in writing a long term vision of the Creamerys success. They
wanted to do something great with this Creamery, and to improve all of our
bottom lines; Great Food, Great Service and Great Finance. When we were
going through that process one thing became abundantly clear: in order to take
the Creamery into the future, we were going to have to make a big investment
in our facility, getting better equipment that would allow us to truly shine.
With that vision firmly in mind, over the last several years we have come up
with many iterations of a renovation project. What is the biggest and the most
we can do? Can we have a Class C liquor license for alcohol service? Can we
build a tunnel for aging, like our favorite French cheesemakers have? Can
we have solar panels on the roof? For every possible dream, a project was
designed, the sales and savings imagined, the finances projected, and the risks
weighed.
The dairy industry is a notoriously difficult field in which to make a profit, and
the Creamery has never been a terribly profitable business. What could we do
to take the business forward? Everyone at the Creamery had a strong vision
and desire to succeed, and we have finally set our sights on a plan that in which
we can thrivewith $1 million dollars and a painstakingly crafted renovation
plan, were going to improve our Creamery in ways we once only thought possible in our imaginations.
Upon completion of this massive project, the Production facility at Zingermans
Creamery will have modern energy efficient equipment, air handling systems,
and cheese aging environments. We will be able to take our already incredible cheeses and gelati and make them even greater by having the ability to
tweak and control hundreds of small variables that go into making them. We
will be able to meet the new pressures and challenges presented by increasingly comprehensive regulations and market demand. We will be able to meet
the market place head on with the right products, in the right packaging, and at
the right time. We have every belief that we can and will succeed and become
one of the most widely recognized Creameries in the country.
Our intimate and humble Cheese and Gelato shop will also be receiving an
expansion and face lift. In the future we hope to be able to offer our cheeses
at more ages, as well as in simple prepared sandwiches and dishes. We have
already expanded the gelato offerings and will continue to do so. We plan to
continue to share our knowledge and passion for everything dairy-related
through tastings, pairings, and events.
This renovation will take 4-5 months, and will require us to completely vacate
the production area of the Creamery. We have forged an allegiance with the
Dairy Plant at Michigan State University, and they have worked with us on a
plan to manufacture cheese at MSU for the duration of the renovation. We are
also very lucky to have all of our sister businesses here on the south side, and
we will be able to use a kitchen here to continue making gelato. We will continue to operate shipping, deliveries and business as usual while we go through
this transition.
Our retail shop will remain open for as long and as much as possible. Specific
phases of this project will require us to close our retail shop, and we will be letting you all know how to find our products while we are downwere planning
some pop-ups around town, and will be sharing that info on our facebook page
and website when we have them nailed down. Please feel free visit our website
for updates, as well keep you all posted on our progress.
LUCIANO'S LEMON
GELATO
BLACK RASPBERrIES
& CREAM GELATO
STRAWBERRY GELATO
Loaded up with
refreshing Michigan
strawberries
BLUEBERrY SORBET
Bursting with ripe
Michigan blueberries
CREAM CHEESE
GELATO
Made with rich, dense,
and slightly tart
Zingerman's Cream
Cheese
Pere Marquette
Fantastic Soft Ripened Goat Cheese
On sale throughout May & June at both Zingermans Deli and Zingermans Creamery!
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
CHEESE 101
Join us as we explore the beautiful variety of white wines produced in our great state of Michigan! From light, dry, crisp Pinot
to sweet, full-bodied Gewurztraminer, we'll sample some of our
favorites and pair them with selected cheeses from our shop.
BREWING METHODS
COMPARATIVE CUPPING
May 1st and June 5, 1-3pm
10
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
SUPPER IN SICILY
As a child, Filippo Drago's playground was his family's flour mill in Castelvetrano, Sicily. Now, this
195
same mill, is Filippo's master workshop where he
creates exquisite flours, which are internationally recognized. His mission is to cultivate healthy
food systems and culture through good grain and flour. His life's
work is to support the growing, milling, and eating of sustainable
ancient grains like Tumminia. Filippo will spend the morning of
the dinner at Zingermans Bakehouse with Frank Carollo baking
four different breads to be served at the meal and then arrive at
the Roadhouse to prepare rest of the dinner with Chef Alex.
Kitty Keller didnt set out to start an import business, but we are glad she did. Founding K.L. Keller
196
Foodways in 1994, Zingermans has leaned on Kitty
and her company to provide us some of the best
Europe has to offer. Focusing on the taste of the
products and buying from individual producers and small farmers, Kitty helps bring the stories of food to tables across America.
Chef Alex and Kitty have created a meal featuring some of Kittys
favorite imports from across the Provence region in France.
Paired with wines from the region, the Roadhouse invites you to
join us for an evening in Provence, with Kitty setting the table for
what is sure to be a great meal.
SUNDAE SOCIAL
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OOH LA LA CROISSANTS
www.zingermans.com
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Several times a month, we open our doors to welcome you to the Cornman
Farms Experience. We offer farm-to-folk dinners, cocktail and cooking
classes, and farm tours.
Blv
d.
rt
po
Once word gets out about the desserts you're making, summer
picnics and barbecues might turn in to block parties. Together
well make tender Bakehouse sweet cream biscuits, golden
vanilla pound cake and pavlova, a crisp sweet meringue.
What do they have in common? Theyre all delicious vehicles
for your pick of ripe summer fruit and whipped cream. You'll
leave BAKE! with our recipes, the knowledge to recreate them
at home, everything you made in class and great coupons.
Air
PICNIC DESSERTS
Ellsworth
While our Farmhouse Dining is not typically open to the public, U of M Graduation is a momentous occasion. As a part of
the U of M community, we want to open our doors and welcome the families and students for a memorable Farm-to-Fork
dinner at Zingermans Cornman Farms.
Our Welcome to Cornman Farms Tour is an exciting 90 minute introduction to the rich history, agricultural projects
and humane raising of animals. Join us for a look at our vegetable and herb gardens, goat milking operation and historic
restored Farmhouse and Barnand enjoy a meet-and-greet
with our visionary Managing Partner, Kieron Hales. Well
even throw in a taste of one of our seasonal vegetables!
Take advantage of the farm-fresh flavors of a Michigan summer with this cocktail class designed around herbs grown
right here at Cornman Farms. Herbs have held a place of
honor in mixed drinks for centuries. Often these compounds
were used as health tonics, either in folk remedies or prescribed by physicians for relieving a variety of ailments.
Herbal cocktails are enjoyable on their own and pair fabulously with food. This evening we will embrace all the sweet
and savory herbaceous offerings of the farm, like rosemary,
thyme, sage, and basil in three light and refreshing summer
cocktails. We will discuss how to incorporate fresh herbs as
a base in cocktails, as a garnish, and how to infuse your own
syrups. Guests will enjoy light and fresh appetizers cooked up
by the talented chefs in the farmhouse kitchen and leave with
recipes for all the cocktails made this evening.
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
11
Fathers Day is Sunday, June 19th. Dad is King for the day! Whether your dad is sweet, salty, spicy,
sandwich-y, snappy, or a combination of all these things, weve got your gift covered.
For the quintessential coffee-drinking Dad, the one whos always got his
thermos in-tow. We brew Zingermans
Coffee Co. Espresso Blend #1 daily at
the Deli as our house blend. It really
shines in our lattes, macchiatos and
specialty coffee drinks! Sweet and
rich bodied, with notes of bittersweet
chocolate and a hint of hazelnut.
The long finish is tantalizing on the
tongue!
Bacon
Landjaeger
If your dad passes on the bacon, its
likely that he is actually a landjaeger man at heart. Go for the Schaller
Weber Landjaegers that are sold in a
large giftable package. They are deliciously snackable and satiable for
any salt loving dad.
Peanut Brittle
This is the perfect gift for the sweettoothed, salt-loving dad. Featuring
jumbo runner peanuts, which have
been roasted in a pot of deeply caramelized sugar, and combined with
butter, vanilla and a touch of sea salt.
One bite and your dad wont want to
share this addictive blend of crunchy,
salty, sweet, and nutty!
Espresso Blend #1
12
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
MAY
JUNE
Ortiz Sardines
$15.50
$13.99
$12.99
A tandem of raw
milk mountain pastured, cheeses pair
up with pasta to create
a hefty portion of mouthwatering
Alpine mac n' cheese. This cheesy
and gooey goodness is served
with your choice of side from the
salad case.
MAY
JUNE
The all-purpose blend for blackening fish, steak and other meats.
The Spice Trekker version of this
iconic blend includes genuine
Spanish paprika, Maras pepper and
oregano from Turkey as well as
chile arbol from Mexico
and the best
American dried
garlic and onions.
Get some today,
and gear up for
grilling season!
Naturally Dried
Fleur de Sel from Bali
Hotsteppin'
out of retirement for one
month only! Featuring our new
Wagshal's Montral-style smoked
meat brisket, what some have
coined "Jewish Bacon." We truly
cant get enough of its savory
meatiness! The beef is whole,
prime briskets smoked for so
long that it becomes tender and
juicy, nearly melting into the
bread. We pair it with our HOT HOT
hot mustard, roasted New Mexico
green chilies and Swiss cheese.
Served on our warm, double
baked rye bread from Zingerman's
Bakehouse.
By the end of May we should be able to announce the formal arrival on our shelves of Part 4
of the Zingermans Guide to Good Leading series of books, The Power of Beliefs in Business.
Its a big step forward for me on what has been a fascinating few years of intensive study, long
periods of reflection and a lot of interesting conversation. Ive learned a great deal and have
become drastically more mindful of the role beliefs are playing in my life, and the lives of
everyone around me. The book includes a series of essays that detail my belief that although
most of them rarely even acknowledged, let alone talked about, beliefs are a huge part of
what makes our lives what they are. Its true in business, its true at home, its true everywhere.
As Claude Bristol wrote over half a century ago in The Magic of Believing: Every person is
the creation of himself, the image of his own thinking and believing. As individuals think and
believe, so they are.
Many of my own beliefs have changed in the course of the work. One of those is in the epilogue, the closing piece of the book. In it, I write about my new belief that business, and life,
are both, ultimately art. That a great business, or life, is designed with the same elegance and
balance and integrity and beauty that goes into a world-class painting. Or a poem. Or a piece
of music. That a rewarding life is one which is designed, built, and lived artistically. Mind you,
that doesn't mean were all spending our days painting or writing poetry or playing piano. To
me, its mostly about mindset. As Osho tells it, When I say be creative I dont mean that you
should all go and become great painters and great poets. I simply mean let your life be art, let
your life be a poem. I dont write poetry, but I do try to live poetically. Poet Robert Duncan
once said, poetry must have music and magic. Ive come to believe the same is true for a great
life. I look for them wherever I go.
I believe that when we think and live and work as artists, the lenses through which we experience the world shift. We notice more of the nuance, we appreciate the fine details, we take in
more of the richness of our surroundings and of our own spirit. Life stops being an annoyance
or an obstacle and instead offers us opportunity to create and amaze and appreciate. The
world, the people around us, the weather, the colors, become the raw material from which
we create. And because everything we create is an expression of our artistic ability, we pay
a whole lot more attention, we bring a bunch more passion, and we put ourselves out there
every time. As surrealist poet Suzanne Cesaire stated, we learn to live in permanent readiness
for the marvelous.
While many of us can aspire to make this reality come true, Michael Zyw lives it out every
single day. Hes a Tuscan painter who makes olive oil. Or maybe hes a Tuscan olive farmer,
who paints. His art is internationally acclaimed, as is his olive oil. Most mornings, Michaels
in the studio, doing watercolors and glass work. In the afternoons, more often than not, hes
out in fieldspruning, picking, and working the landon his small farm near the picturesque
Tuscan coast. The two seemingly separate skills come together to make one very tasty and
very artistic life, and, an amazing olive oil.Artists, like Michael, pay attention to the details far
more than most of us might. Heres what he wrote me back when I asked about how olives and
art came together for him. Clearly, the man is ready for the marvelous. And as youll see, he
finds it all around him:
"Living amongst the olives of our farm at Poggio Lamentano gives an essential sense of peace
and harmony that makes it inspiring to work. The actual work of pruning is more like sculpting
than painting as it is a taking off of branches rather than adding layers of colour! Perhaps it is
for that reason that I paint! The light in the Olive groves coming from the sky, the leaves and
from the sea is amazing to work in and the forms of the olives, of the vines, of all the leaves,
the branches, tree trunks, and of the entire tree forms are inspirational to creativity and work
in painting or in other forms of expression. The continuously beautiful reflections of light
from the Mediterranean Sea and the sky coming over and through the olives and the varying
layers of colours giving a transparency and colour to the landscape inspirational to painting
and to glass working!"
If you want to see Michaels watercolors or his work with Murano glass, go to www.michaelzyw.com. Michaels painting, as was that of his father (Alexander Zyw), has been praised
throughout the art world. For the art majors amongst us, his extraordinary paintings incarnate the essence of the art of Aquarelle, in which profuse colour diluted in water arrives at
its perfected image. It can be likened to a photo, which can instantly manifest delicate visual
impressions born of an observation of reality in continuous movement. His work with glass is
equally special: [Zyw]...has realized blocks of Murano crystal within which colours have been
captivated...communicating the living visual impressions of his bright imagination.
We also now have one of Michaels most recent pieces of watercolor work here at the Deli.
No, not an original framed piece. This one is on a bottle, sitting on the shelf, and in my case,
on my kitchen counter (and perhaps soon on yours). Its the very lovely, exceptionally elegant
label for the new, first-time-in-production, exceptionally delicious olive oil hes making for us
exclusively with Moraiolo olives. While he grows five different varietals on the farm, for this
particular offering hes set aside the oil from the Moraiolo, one of the most interesting of the
bunch. If poet Gary Snyder is correct (and I believe he is) that the preserver of abundance
is excellence, then this newly arrived oil from Michaels Poggio Lamentano farm in western
Tuscany is a particularly rich source of inspiration for all of us. Both the label art and the oil
inside are something special.
The label is, of course, quite small compared to most of Michaels larger works of art. It is, I
suppose, a bit like a poem, compared to much longer piece of prose. About two inches tall by
three across, it shows the purple, red, orchid, blue, green, ochre, elegance of the Moraiolo
olive branch, done in watercolor. The darker colors reflect the look of the olivea purplish
varietal, less green than many of the others. Soft, subtle, easy to miss on a shelf filled with
fancy labels, its well worth pausing to appreciate. I guarantee it's the only label we have painted by the person who
also helped pick the olives.
While the oil from Michaels trees is new to us, the Moriaolo
itself is a very old variety. The name means of the wall,
and legend has it that it came originally from Greece or Asia
Minor, planted by monks in the holes left behind when they
pulled stones out to build their homes. Its branches point
more up than down, making it harder to reach, and requiring old-school hard harvesting. Michael doesnt mind, nor do
wethe hand-picking contributes positively to the quality of
the oil. But most new producers dont want to botherthey
prefer that machines do the work. The Moriaolo is rarely
seen as a solo variety, either in oil or for eating. Usually
its blended with other varietalsLeccino, Frantoio and
Pendolino are its typical Tuscan associates. It is, as I
was saying above, a bit darker in color, and its oil
is bigger in body and has a distinctive flavor that
forms the backbone of most Tuscan oils. All
of which make it particularly exciting that
Michael has agreed to do this special pressing for us.
The olive oil of Michaels farm, Poggio
Lamentano, has long been known for its
excellence. Michaels parents (particularly his mother) were pioneers in the
export of single estate extra virgin olive
oils. Poggio Lamentano was already
winning acclaim back in the early 60s,
an era when extra virgin olive was still
only a gleam in the eye of most of the
worlds gourmets. The famous food writers of that era, crafting their views on
the aesthetics of great food long before
there was a food network or Facebook,
fell in love with it. Elizabeth David called
it, one of the supreme pleasures of my
life. M.F.K.. Fisher was a big fan as well:
Excellent in every way and exactly to
my taste. The oil is classically Tuscan
peppery, green, big, beautiful, delicious.
The regular Poggio Lamentano oil is,
to this day, excellent. Weve been selling
it at Zingermansand Ive been eating
itregularly for the last few years. Our
relationshipboth with Michael and
with the oilhas gotten stronger and
richer with each passing year. So much
so that this past summer we talked to
Michael about doing another, second,
oil, especially for us. And now, a little
under a year later, its here! A single
varietal oil made from the very ancient
Moraiolo olives.
This new arrival, using only the oil of the
Moraiolo is, of course, as much a work of art
as the label Michael painted for it. Both are gorgeous. You might put some of the oil out on a white
plate just to admire the green gold color. The perfume is
amazingI could smell it for a long time. And the aroma, of course, just entices you to do what
you know comes nextyou actually eat it! Its green, a bit peppery, lively, aromas and flavors
both of fresh cut grass and olive fruit. Its amazingly buttery with a big luscious mouth feel. As
is characteristic of oils like Michaels from the western part of Tuscany, its not as intensely
peppery as those from closer to Florence.
Ive been eating it a lot, on toastthe aroma when the oil hits the hot bread is terrific. Or using
it to dress pasta, topped simply with Parmigiano Reggiano and a lot of the great Telicherry
black pepper were getting from the equally artistic folks at pices de Cru in Montral. Great
too on a steakdrizzle it on right before you eat it. Or on full flavored fish like bluefish. As
the fresh vegetables start coming in with the season it will be great on salads! For dessert, try
putting some of the oil on a plate, drop a spoonful of one of the Delis great varietal honeys
in the middle of it, and then scoop the two together with some warm Paesano bread. All will
be delicious. Your day, and your life, will, I guarantee, be a bit more artistically oriented and
rewarding for it.
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
13
FRIED CHICKEN
An Icon in the Making
We've been making fried chicken at the Roadhouse since day one. As
famed food writer John T Edge points out, "Fried Chicken is at once a
totem of tradition and a lowest-common denominator lunch." Though a
lot of folks grew up with the stuff, unfortunately, even among the lucky
few who have a great recipe passed down through their family, these
days not many people are able to put in the time to make it. So we set
out to make something that both recalls great childhood memories for
a lot people, but take that taste to a whole new level!
The credit for our inspiration for the Roadhouse fried chicken goes to Guss World Famous
Fried Chicken in Mason, Tennessee, about 45 minutes east of Memphis. Its not like theres anything particularly
fancy about Guss, or about the chicken they make-its just really great. The place itself is pretty run down.
Just a counter you order at in the back and some old tables. They make what fried chicken freaks know as
a Tennessee-style: the raw chicken goes into a milk marinade, then gets tossed in flour, then fried. Not
fancy. Just good. Really good. Kind of spicy. Crunchy outside. Moist and hot inside.
If youre near Memphis, make the trip to Guss. But if youre out our way, I hope
youll stop by and have some of this one.
For over 30 years, Zingermans has brought the best and most flavorful foods of the world to your
table. With our Food Tours, we take you behind the scenes directly to the source of that amazing food both near and far. Together well venture off the beaten path, where local cuisine
provides a direct connection to the history of a region, the soul of its people, and the rhythm of
daily life.
MAY
KENYA - OTHAYA COOPERATIVE
Our one-of-a-kind tours are small and intimate. We handle all of the details for you, and bring
you the best local guides, cuisine, and cultural experiences. Because of our connections in the
food and travel world, all you need to do is sit back, relax, and soak in a truly unique adventure.
JUNE
PERU - CHIRINOS COOPERATIVE
An elegant coffee from the San Ignacio province of northern Peru. These high-altitude
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INTERNATIONAL TOURS
Morocco
September 2016
March 2017
Tuscany
Hungary
October 2016
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Hungry to explore?
Head to www.zingermansfoodtours.com to find out more and sign up for our e-news
14
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
monthly speciaLS
May
JUNE
ES ALPUKAT
from the
BREAD
NORTH
COUNTRY
flour, the major players in the flour market have the facilities to mill and store their wares until
they're ordered and shipped. Smaller growers do not have such facilities at their disposal. So Frank
must pick up the cost of first shipping the wheat to a mill, then pay for grinding and storage, and
then once again assume the cost of shipping the ground flour to the Bakehouse. This can quickly
become prohibitively expensive.
Ideally, Frank would like to see a local processing mill and storage facility located a bit closer to
the Bakehouse. A hundred years ago, every town had its own mill, so this wasn't an issue. You'd
simply harvest your grains and drive them to the local mill. Frank confesses that he'd personally
love to learn the art of milling good flour from Michigan-grown grains, and probably would do just
that, If I didn't have a busy bakehouse to run... Fortunately, for Frank, Bill Koucky and his partners
at Grand Traverse Culinary Flours have got him covered. Bill's facility features it's very own stone
grinding mill that can be adapted to produce a variety of grades, from coarse to very fine. And Bill
has plenty of storage space.
In March, Frank headed up to Bellaire, MI for to the Crosshatch Center for Art & Ecology, a nonprofit
organization dedicated to exploring the intersections of the two. As their website says, Crosshatch
provides resources for our community to become stronger, more self-reliant, and more native to
place. The group organizes workshops, courses, and conferences that ...teach our neighbors how
to do things like: become a beekeeper, care for goats, build a brick oven, graft fruit trees, manage soil effectively, preserve food, and more. The Center partnered with Bill and Grand Traverse
Culinary Flours to host a 'Grain Day' seminar. The day included breakout sessions for attendees with
topics such as The Big Picture of Growing Grain, Integrating Grain onto your Farm, Harvesting
and Processing (with guest speaker Bill Koucky), and Growing Grain for Market, featuring a local
business owner panel.
Big things are obviously happening in the Northern Michigan world of grain, and Frank is hopeful
that they continue to enjoy the success of the past few growing seasons. In the past year, the southern end Michigan's Lower Peninsula saw more rainfall than usual in the early season. The wetterthan-normal environment was unfortunately favorable to certain kinds of crop blight, and a lot of
growers farmers saw their season fail as a result. By contrast, the micro-climate in the Northwest
region of the state has been much more hospitable to farmers in recent years, and the very good
yields seen by Bill and his partners are establishing the area as a potential new source for quality
grains.
The immediate result of this new connection with our Northern neighbors is a fantastic new bread
now available at Zingerman's Bakehouse. After harvest, Bill sends their red spring wheat through
the stone grinding mill to produce a flour that contains more wheat germ and bran. This wheat flour,
in turn, produces a bread with great natural flavor and texture.
True North is a whole wheat bread with a nice, dark crust, and a slightly dense crumb The bread has
the sweetness of whole wheat balanced with the slightly sour note of its naturally leavening. The
taste is rich and full, with the texture lying somewhere in the middle of the bread density spectrum.
It's a very satisfying bread that's delicious simply toasted and enjoyed on its own, savoring the
wonderful wheat flavor. As Frank says, It's a really great-tasting bread.
And in the end, that's what is most important.
Zingerman's Service Network
Communications Manager
The other challenge facing a bakery that's been successful in finding a source for good wheat is
finding a place to mill and store the wheat after harvest. In the case of a conventionally grown
Available at Zingermans
Bakehouse, Roadhouse
& Delicatessen
20%
may/June
5/6
Blueberry Buckle
whole ofF
cak
& slice es
s!
may
Hunka Burnin' Love
Chocolate Cake
Our dense buttermilk chocolate cake covered in rich Belgian chocolate butter cream.
Customers have been known
to fall in love with it. For optimal flavor and texture be sure
to enjoy our cakes at room
temperature. Your patience
will be rewarded!
june
Mississippi Mud Pie
An intense brownie-like
chocolate cake covered in
rich dark chocolate ganache,
toasted meringue and a drizzle
of chocolate sauce. Try your
slice of mud pie warmed up to
really amp up the experience.
$4.50 each
(reg. $6.29)
may
june
Farm Loaf
ISSUE # 256
MAY-JUNE 2016
15