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Let the two adjacent trochoidS be those through P and P’ (Fig. ), the rolling lines being
through N and N’, and the lines of orbit centres through 0 and 0’, y being measured from
some datum line and δy being as shown.
Then for continuity it is necessary that the water shall continually fill the space between
the two trochoids.
If v is the velocity at P and e the breadth of the stream, then the quantity of water passing
will equal v x e.
Since v = nω, we have quantity of water passing=new, and this must be constant all
along the stream and since ω is uniform.
There fore ne=constant (4)
Thus for successive values of y, i.e. distances below the centres of the rolling circle of the
surface trochoid, we can obtain successive values of r, and it is found that r rapidly
decreases with the depth
The turning of the rolling circle movement into a wave formation by impressing on it a
constant velocity does not afTcct any of the dynamical relations into which we shall have
to inquire.
Line of Orbit Centres in Relation to Still Water Level. Let OO be the line of orbit centres,
Fig., and LL a line such that the area of the half trochoid P’P”’M equals the area LLP’M,
i.e. LL will be the level of still water.
This gives the speed of the wave in foot second units. For the speed in knots we have:
V12=1.8L or V1=l.34√L (10)
f in (8) is termed the virtual gravity, because the particles are acted upon by f instead of
the real gravity g.
f changes in magnitude and direction all along the wave, being always perpendicular to
the surface of the trochoid.
The apparent or virtual weight of a body of mass m
floating on the surface of a wave therefore varies from mgx{(R-r)/R} at the crest to mgx{
(R+r)/r} in the trough.
For a wave 600 ft. long and 30 ft. high the variation is from 084g in the crest to 115g in
the trough.
This s the explanation of the welt-known phenomenon of the tenderness of sailing boats
on the crest of a wave.
The virtual weight is less than the actual, and consequently the righting moment at any
angle of inclination is less on the crest than in still water.
The wind moment causing heel is not affected, and thus on the crest of a wave a boat, of
sufficient stiffness in smooth water, is liable to be blown over to a large angle and
possibly capsize. water, is liable
The virtual gravity will act at right angles to the wave slope, and a small raft will always
tend to set itself normal to the wave surface. This normal at any particular instant is
termed the virtual upright
and since ,ne is constant along the stream the increment of pressure δ p is also constant.
That is to say, since the pressure on the surface is constant, on each of the sub-surfaces
the pressure is constant, and the trochoidal strip is capable of forming a stream of
continuous flow.
The area of a trochoidal strip corresponding to lines of rolling circles δy apart is obtained
as follows (see Fig. ):
Energy stored up in a Wave. The particles of a wave are revolving in circular orbits each
with a linear velocity ω r, and the energy due to this motion is kinetic energy.
The particles are also lifted above the level they occupied in still water, which is
potential energy.
It can be shown that the total energy per unit breadth of the wave is (1/8)wLH2.
The centre of gravity of a trochoidal strip is in the line of orbit centres, for: