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CURRICULUM
SL Topics Periods
1. Motion of Weaving 02
2. Loom 06
3. Shedding Mechanism 04
4. Tappet Shedding Mechanism 10
5. Picking Mechanism 09
6. Beating Up 02
7. Timing and Setting 02
8. Take Up Motion 06
9. Let-Off Motion 04
10. Weft Fork Motion 02
11. Warp Protecting Motion 03
Total 50
CONTENTS
Topics Content Periods
01 Motion of Weaving 02
01.01 Principles and definition of fabric manufacture.
01.02 Motions in weaving: Primary Secondary and Tertiary motions.
02 Loom 06
02.01 Introduction.
02.02 Types of Loom: Handloom - brief idea of handloom,
Powerloom - default study of plain tappet looms.
02.03 Various parts of loom and its functions.
02.04 Healds: Necessity of healds and types of healds.
03 Shedding Mechanism 04
03.01 Definition.
03.02 Types of Shed: Closed shed (Bottom-closed and Centre-
closed), Open shed - Semi open shed.
03.03 Merits, demerits and uses of each type of shed.
03.04 Shedding mechanisms and its kinds: Tappet, Dobby and
Jacquard shedding mechanism.
03.05 The scope of Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard shedding.
04 Tappet Shedding Mechanism 10
04.01 Tappets, cam and difference between cam and tappets.
04.02 Types of tappet shedding: Negative tappet shedding and
Positive tappet shedding.
04.03 Various types of tappet shedding: Inside tappet shedding and
Outside tappet shedding.
04.04 Construction of cam and tappets for plain looms.
04.05 Condition of good shedding.
04.06 Early shedding and late shedding.
05 Picking Mechanism 09
05.01 Methods of picking.
05.02 Types of picking mechanism: Introduction, Principles of
spring pick, Principles of Torsion-Picking, Weft control in the
multiple-gripper weaving machine.
05.03 Conventional picking mechanism: Introduction, The cone-
overpick mechanism, The cone-underpick mechanism, and
other conventional picking mechanism.
05.04 Shuttle-checking devices: Conventional shuttle looms and
Multiple-gripper weaving machines.
05.05 Shuttle and its types.
05.06 Defects in shuttle and shuttle cop.
05.07 Defects in negative picking.
05.08 Essential feature to a good pick.
05.09 Comparison between underpick and overpick.
05.11 Early and Late picking.
05.12 Study of the following: Picker, Picking Band, Buffer, Check
Strap, Swell spring, Shuttle Guard, Shuttle flying, Shuttle
trapping.
06 Beating up 02
06.01 Introduction.
06.02 Construction and Mechanism.
06.03 Eccentricity of sley motion and its effect on loom working.
06.04 Factors affecting the sley motion.
07 Timing and Setting 02
07.01 A Method of indicating loom-timing.
07.02 Timing of primary motions in tappet loom.
07.03 Setting sley, shedding and picking.
08 Take up Motion 06
08.01 Introduction.
08.02 Classification of take up motion: Negative and positive take-
up motion.
08.03 Five wheel take-up motion.
08.04 Seven wheel take-up motion.
08.05 Dividend of Loom.
08.06 Calculated dividend and practical dividend.
08.07 Calculation regarding dividends.
08.08 Changing the number of picks/inch.
09 Let-Off Motion 04
09.01 Objects.
09.02 Types of Let-off motion: Negative and Positive Let-Off
Motions.
09.03 Types of Negative Let-off motion: Frictional let-off motion;
Chain, lever and weight let-off motion. Advantages and
disadvantages of chain, lever and weight let-off motion.
09.04 Conditions to good Let-off motion.
10 Weft-Fork Motion 02
10.01 Objects and principles.
10.02 Types of Weft Fork motion: Side Weft and Centre Weft fork
motion. Relative advantages and disadvantages between a
single Weft fork and a centre weft fork motion.
10.03 Timing of side weft fork motion.
11 Warp Protecting Motion 03
11.01 Introduction.
11.02 Types of Warp Protecting motion: Loose Reed, Fast Reed and
Electromagnetic Warp Protecting motion.
11.03 Loom Knocking off or Banging off. Defects of knocking off.
Recommended Books
SL Title/Publisher Author
1. Weaving Mechanism, Vol. I, II N.N. Banerjee
2. The Mechanism of Weaving Fox
3. Principles of Weaving Robinson and Marks
4. Cotton Weaving and Designing J. B. Taylor
5. Cotton Yarn Weaving A.T.A.
6. Tappet and Dobby Looms T. Robberts
7. Weaving, Machines, Mechanisms, Management Talukdar
8. Weaving Technology Kulkarni
(Extracts from the book "Woven Fabric Production - I."
published by the NCUTE, giving the technical information
about weaving, for the benefit of the members.)
SHEDDING
2.1 Object of Shedding Mechanism
Examples :
1. Jamieson’s tappet
2. Barrel tappet and
3. Ordinary tappet
Principle
Construction
Y - Cloth
The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p
threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are
passed through one heald shaft while the even ends are passed
through the other heald shaft.
Working
For the next shed, the other tappet works with the other set of
bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the other
heald shaft is lowered. The first heald shaft is raised by the top
reversing rollers, and the positions of the healds shafts are thus
interchanged. Thus, for one rotation of the bottom shaft, two sheds are
formed.
Points to be observed
1. Turn the crank shaft through two revolutions and make sure that
the bowls are always in contact with the tappets.
2. The heald shafts should not touch the side frames or the sley.
3. Turn the crank shaft to the bottom centre and check the size of
shed. The bottom line of warp sheet or the heald eyes of the
lowered heald shaft should have a clearance of 1 mm from the
race board and the top.
2.3.4 Tappets
Two tappets are connected to the bottom shaft at 180 degrees to each
other because half a rotation of the bottom shaft is equal to one pick,
and for each pick, one tappet will lower the heald shaft. The tappets
have a portion corresponding to the dwell. This is used to arrest the
movement of the heald shafts for a period of time. During this time,
the shuttle is traversing from one box to the other. This period is
usually 1/3 rd of a pick i.e. 120 degrees. See Figure 2.5.
Throw of a tappet
Referring to the figure, it is clear that the difference between the heal s
1 and toe s 2 of a tappet is equal to its throw. If the difference is high
then the throw of tappet is also high. Higher-throw tappets apply more
force to the treadle lever. A higher-throw tappet is always connected to
the back heald shaft. This is mainly to compensate for the difference in
leverage in the treadle levers.
Refer to Figure 2.7. By altering the positions of the lamb rod hooks on
the treadle levers, the depth of shed is changed. By moving the lamb
rod towards the fulcrum (distance d 1 ), the depth of shed is reduced
and moving it away from the fulcrum (distance d), the depth of shed is
increased. The depth of shed is altered when a shuttle of a different
height is used.
Lamb rod hooks
Advantages
Disadvantages
1. Normal shedding
2. Early shedding
3. Late shedding
1. Normal shedding
If the heald shafts are at the same level when the crank
comes to the top center, that is, 0 degree or 360 degrees, then it
is known as normal shedding. See Figure 2.8
2. Early shedding
A shed is said to be early when the pick insertion is effected
after the shed is completely open. If the heald shafts are at the
same level when the crank comes to 355 degrees or 5 degrees
before the top centre, then it is known as early shedding.
3. Late shedding
If the heald shafts are at the same level when the crank
comes to 5 degrees after top centre, then the shedding is known
as late shedding. See Figure 2.8.
Disadvantages
1. As the warp yarns are open widely during beat up, strain on the
warp yarn is high.
2. Early shedding causes chaffing of war p yarn (yar n abrasion)
and end breakages may occur.
Late shedding allows the weft to get beaten up before the shed has
been properly crossed. During beat-up, opening of the shed is minimal.
So strain on the war p yarn is low.
Disadvantages
1. It causes a very weak fell of the cloth because the weft may roll
back.
2. It causes less distribution of yarn. So it is not suitable for fibrous
warp.
3. As the warp yarns are not distributed evenly during beat-up,
fabric cover is low.
2.5 Heald staggering and Asymmetric Shedding
Heald staggering
In the formation of a shed, if all the war p yarns of one shed line go
across those of the other shed line at the same time there will be much
strain on the yarns. So there may be many war p yarn breakages. To
avoid warp strain and end breakages, the movements of the heald
shafts are staggered. By this arrangement, the warp yarns of one shed
line will not cross the yarns of the other shed at the same time. For
example, if four heald shafts are used and four tappets are used to
control the heald shafts separately, the timings of the tappets are
adjusted in such a way that the crossing of shed lines is altered. So end
breakages can be reduced. Refer to Figure 2.9
A - Heald Shafts
B - Reed
C - Lease rods
During the weaving of heavy fabric like denim, canvas, satin duck,
etc. the force required to push the weft is high. So there may be
bumping of fabric. To avoid this weaving resistance, asymmetric
shedding is used. In this shedding, the time and duration of movement
of the top and bottom shed lines is so adjusted that they cross below
the mid-lift position. At this point of crossing, the yarns at the bottom
shed line are under higher tension than those at the top shed line.
As the reed beats up the weft, the slack top shed line yields and
permits the weft to be pushed to the fell of the cloth with relative ease.
So it is easy to weave even heavy fabric.
d - Twisted wire
e - Flat-steel
(Simplex)
f - Flat-steel
(Duplex)
In this type, the top and bottom wooden bars of the heald
shafts have two steel strips attached to the heald wires that are
inserted in between the steel strips and metal or wooden bar.
Twisted wires or flat steel heald wires of the simplex or duplex
type are free to move sidewards on the bars. These are more
expensive when compared to knitted heald wires but they have a
much longer life and can be assembled on the heald frames to
suit any weaving requirements. See Figure 2.11.
Examples
Figure 2.13 shows the top-rollers arrangement for plain cloth using
two heald shafts. Leather straps connected to the heald shafts pass
over rollers A and B. When the tappet lowers one heald shaft, the other
is raised.
The mechanisms may be used for the following weaves with simple
adjustments.
a. Plain : To weave plain weave two heald shafts are necessary.
Hence the rollers E or K are used.
b. Three heald-shaft twill weave : To weave 1/2 or 2/1 designs,
the stepped rollers K and the quadrant lever H are used.
c. Four heald-shaft twill weave : To weave 1/3 or 2/2 or 3/1
designs, the stepped rollers K and E are used.
d. Five heald-shaft weave : All the rollers and top curved surface
of quadrant are used to raise five heald shafts.
A - Arm
B - Stud
C - Lever
D - Stud in the top arm
E - Stepped rollers
F and F 1 - Leather straps
G - Stud
H - Quadrant lever
I - Leather strap
J - Stud
K - Stepped rollers
Advantages
A - Heald shaft
B - Leather strap
C - Disc
D - Spring
Spring-easing motion
When spiral springs are used in under motions, their stretch will be
more than the movement of heald shafts. Hence the springs will not
exert the right force consistently. Also the life of the springs may be
reduced.
Principle
In this type of shedding, the heald shaft is raised and lowered by the
tappet.
Construction
A - Tappet shaft
B - Tappet
C - Track
D - Bowl
E - Tappet lever
F - Fulcrum
G - Link rods
H - Fulcrum
I - Heald wire
J - Heald shaft links
K - Heald shaft
Working
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the
shape of the groove, the bowl is moved up or down or is still. If the
bowl is moved up, the tappet lever moves to the right through the links
G and J and the heald shaft is lowered. If the bowl is moved down, the
tappet lever moves to the left and the heald shaft is raised. Since the
heald shaft is raised and lowered by means of the mechanism, this
tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding mechanism.
When the bowl stands still, the heald shaft is in the “dwell” stage.
1. Open shed
1. Fully-open shed
2. Semi-open
2. Closed Shed
1. Centre-closed shed
2. Bottom-closed shed
Merits
Demerits
A - Bottom line of
war p
B - Top line of
warp
C - Movement of
falling threads
D - Movement of
rising threads
2. Figure 2.22 Fully-open shed
3. As the shed is always open, breakages may results especially
when the yarn is weak.
4. When many heald shafts are used, the strain on the warp yarns
in the back heald shafts is increased and hence warp breakages
may occur.
Uses
This is formed under both closed and open principles. In this shed, a
stationary bottom line is retained. The top line is a movable one. After
inserting a pick, the top line moves towards the bottom line. When the
threads are moving down, some of the threads which are to form once
again at the top line are arrested midway and are then carried to the
top line. The remaining threads move down. Similarly the threads
which are to be at the top line also move up and are carried to the top
line. Figure 2.23 shows a semi-open shed. In the figure, A is the bottom
stationary line. B is the top line. Arrow D, shows the movement of
rising threads from the bottom to the top line. Arrow E shows the
movement of rising threads from the bottom to the top line. Arrow F
shows the movement of the arrested threads at the midway position C.
From the midpoint C these threads are carried to the top line.
The full lines indicate the positions of shed lines after inserting a pick.
They are in a semi-open state. So this type of shed is known as semi-
open shed.
Merits
Demerits
Uses
This type of shed closes after ever y pick is inserted. So all the war p
threads come to the same level after each pick is inserted.
Merits
Demerits
1. Since every thread is moved to form each shed, strain on the war
p is more than that for the open shed.
2. An unsteady movement of threads is caused by the warp threads
being in constant motion.
Uses
This kind of shed is formed by giving motion to only those threads that
form the top line. Under this conditions, after inserting a pick, all the
warp yarns come to the bottom line. Figure 2.25 shows a bottom
-closed shed. A represents the bottom stationary line, B the top line
and C is the arrow showing the movement of threads.
A - Bottom stationary line of warp
B - Rising and falling threads
C - Arrow showing the movement of threads
Merit
Demerits
Uses
Depth of shed
Stroke of Tappet
1. The distance of the front heald shaft from the fell of the cloth is
32 cm.
2. The distance of the back heald shaft from the fell of the cloth is
36 cm.
3. The distance of the front of the shuttle from the fell of the cloth
is 11.0 cm.
4. The height of the shuttle at the front is 3.5 cm.
5. A clearance of 5 mm is given between the top front edge of the
shuttle and the top warp line.
6. The angle between the reed and the race board, which is known
as the bevel, is taken as 90o
7. The sley sward moves through 15o from the vertical beat-up
position to its backward most position.
From the data given above, it is possible to calculate the total
movement of the front and back heald shafts, for the same angle of
shed.
From the above data, the calculations of the heald shafts movements
are given below :
Angle AOB is the shed angle; OA (OD) is the top warp line;
OB(OE) is the bottom warp line;
CO is the horizontal line joining the front and back rests.
Figure 2.27
Bevel of the reed (angle between the race board and the reed is 90o)
Since the sley has moved 15o from the front position to the backward
position, COB is 15o (see Figure 2.26)
Tan AOB = [Height of the shuttle + Clearance between the shuttle and
the top line of the warp]
_________________________________________________________________
(Distance of the shuttle from the fell of the cloth)
3.5 + 0.5
=-------------- = 0.3636
11.0
Angle AOB = 190 59’; Angle AOC = 190 59’ - 150 = 40 59’
In triangle COA, CA = tan angle AOC x OC = 0.0872 x 32 = 2.79 cm.
In triangle COB, CB = tan COB x OC = 0.2679 x 32 = 8.57 cm.
AB = CA + CB = 2.79 + 8.57 = 11.36 cm.
The triangles AOB and DOE are similar. So, (DE/AB) = (OF/OC) = 36/32
36
DE = 11.36 x ---- = 12.78 cm.
32
Thus, the front heald shaft has to move through a distance of 11.36
cm. and the back heald shaft has to move through a distance of 12.78
cm.
L1 = the distance of the front heald shaft from the fulcrum of the
treadle = 50 cm.
L2 = the distance of the back heald shaft from the fulcrum of the
treadle = 46 cm.
d1 = the diameter of the top roller that controls the front heald shaft;
d2 = the diameter of the top roller that controls the back heald shaft;
S1 = stroke of the tappet that controls the front heald shaft
S2 = stroke of the tappet that controls the back heald shaft
h1 = vertical movement of front heald shaft = 11.36 cm.
h2 = vertical movement of back heald shaft = 12.78 cm.
S2 h2 L1
------ = ------ * ------
S1 h1 L2
12.78 50
=---------- * ------ = 1.22
11.36 46
Thus the stroke of the tappet operating the back heald shaft
should be 22% greater than that operating the front heald
shaft.
d2 h2 12.78
-------- = ------- = ---------- = 1.125
d1 h1 11.36
Hence the diameter of the top roller of the back heald shaft
reversing mechanism should be about 12.5% greater than that
controlling the front heald shaft.
Since the treadle levers controlling the healds shafts are fulcrummed
at the back of the loom, the actual leverage of the treadle lever
operating the back heald shaft is less than that of the front heald shaft.
Because of the shorter leverage, the back heald shaft will move a
shorter distance compared to the movement of the front shaft,
whereas, as per the calculation shown above, the back shaft should
move a greater distance to maintain the same depth of shed.
Therefore, the tappet operating the back heald shaft should
have a greater throw (or stroke) than the front tappet.
Any one of the following motions can obtain the above type of
movement :
2.12.1 Objects
The objects of counter shaft arrangement are :
Before dealing with the need for the counter shaft, let us have an idea
about the basic weaves produced in a plain power loom.
Plain Weave
In a plain weave, each warp yarn passes over alternate weft yarns.
Neighboring warp yarns pass over the adjacent weft yarns. See Figure
2.29
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
In a satin weave, the warp yarn floats over four or more weft yarns and
passes under only one. Adjacent warp yarns have their floats arranged
as randomly as possible, so no twill line is generated, as seen clearly in
Figure 2.31.
Satin Weave
In plain looms, two tappets are used for weaving plain and rib weaves.
When the bottom shaft rotates once, the two shedding tappets form
two sheds. Two picks are thus inserted for each complete rotation of
the bottom shaft. Hence two picks per repeat of the design can be
woven easily.
Now let us consider a design with three-picks per repeat. Here three
shedding tappets are used. If we fix three shedding tappets to the
bottom shaft, then three sheds are formed for each rotation of the
bottom shaft. During this time, only two picks are inserted. But we
have to insert three picks. So we have to change the speed of the
bottom shaft. It is practically impossible to do so. So another shaft
known as counter shaft is used. The shedding tappets are fixed to this
shaft and the speed of the counter shaft is reduced.
2.15 Electronic Shedding Mechanism
In the function panel, the timing for shedding, dwell and shedding
pattern are set according to the weaving design. The heald shafts are
moved up and down, according to the settings, positively, precisely
and smoothly by the servo-motors.
1. Ultimate flexibility
4. Easy Operation