Grading of Technology in Apparel Production Machinery and Equipments

PRESENTED BY:AMIT KUMAR AMIT KUMAR RAVI SAURABH KUMAR M.F.Tech-3rd NIFT, Bangalore

OBJECTIVE

To study the comparison of technology used by two apparel manufacturing industries for understanding the grading of technology in apparel production machinery and equipments.

SAMPLE INDUSTRY
RICHA GROUP RAYMOND SILVERSPARK PRODUCT- JACKET

INTRODUCTION
Any technology is qualitatively graded from A to E depending on level of technology Code Level of Technology
A- Backward/Primitive B- Between A, C C- Modern by average Indian standard D- Between C, E E- Global Standard

DEPARTMENTS CHOSEN
Cutting
Sewing Finishing

RATING
Rating is done on the scale of 1-5 i.e
1 poor 2 Average 3 Good 4 Very good 5 Excellent

COMPANY PROFILE
Established in 1977, Richa Group is a name to reckon within the garment industry. The Group has a remarkable presence in the readymade garments export industry including woven, knitted, leather garments and home furnishing.

Richa Group is equipped with 18 fully integrated manufacturing units in Delhi, Gurgaon, Noida and Bangalore. It stands tall with US $ 130 million turnover.

BRANDS

Managing Director

General Manager (Mr Bhoparai) Personnel dept. (Mr Mehra) Merchandisin g Department (Ms Poonam) Fabric stores and cutting dept Production

RnD (Mr Hemant) Sampling (Mr Venkatesh) Sewing (Mr Kaul) Washing (Mr Vinay)

Quality
Industrial Engineering (Mr Tapas)

Finishing
Packing (Mr Rajat)

Embroidery (Mr Raman)

COMPANY PROFILE
Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs. 1400 cr plus conglomerate having businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and Toiletries. A distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in India. BRANDS- These are PARK AVENUE,COLORPLUS,NOTTING HILL,MANZONI,PARX,ZAPP and BE.

BRAND

Contd.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd.; marking the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market. Set-up at a total project cost of Rs. 42.5 cr, this state-ofthe-art manufacturing facility has an annual capacity of 5 lac suits and 13 lac trousers. The specialty of the plant is the superior construction of the jacket, are in line with Italian and Japanese quality levels, which are known for best quality jackets in the world.

Business Head (VP)

GM (Manufacturing)

GM ( HR / Admin)

GM (Finance & Acc.)

GM (Markt/Merchandising)

Plant Manager

HR

IT

Adm.

Finance

EXIM

Merchandising

Purchase

Fabric

PreProduction

Accessories Store

Cutting

Planning

IE

Sewing

Quality

Finishing

Maintenance

MTM

SPREADING & CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Rating of Spreading Dept. At Richa

Machine type Technology index for machine sr. no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 AUTOMATIC SPREADING C RATING WEIGHTAGE 4 3 3 4 4 3 3.45454545 3 2 4 3 5 Features Handling fabric package type Handling bigger/harder roll Loading heavy rolls Spreading in different modes Tension in fabric while laying Aligning selvedges Handling dimensionally unstable fabric Ply counting Fabric wastage as end loss Productivity Handling smaller rolls

Rating of Spreading Dept. At Silver Spark

Machine type Technology index for machine Sr. no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Automatic Spreading C WEIGHTAG Features RATING E Handling fabric package type 4 Handling bigger/header roll 4 Loading heavy rolls 4 Spreading in different modes 4 Tension in fabric while laying 4 3.7272727 Aligning selvedges 3 27 Handling dimensionally unstable fabric 3 Ply counting 4 Fabric wastage as end loss 4 Productivity 4 Handling smaller rolls 3

Spreading
Machine type Technology index for machine Sr. no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 PIN TABLE C RATING WEIGHTAGE 4 3 3 4 4 3 3.63636364 4 3 4 4 4

Features Handling fabric package type handling bigger/header roll loading heavy rolls spreading in different modes tension in fabric while laying aligning selvedges handling dimensionally unstable fabric ply counting fabric wastage as end loss Productivity handling smaller rolls

Spreading
Machine type Technology index for machine
Sr. no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Features Handling fabric package type handling bigger/header roll loading heavy rolls spreading in different modes tension in fabric while laying aligning selvedges handling dimensionally unstable fabric ply counting fabric wastage as end loss Productivity handling smaller rolls

PIN TABLE C
RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 3 3 2 3 3.27272727 4 3 4 4 3

CUTTING Machine type Technology index for machine Features Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer accuracy in cutting acute curves height of a lay possibility of notches quality of notches operator security making manual marker sharpening of blade suitability for low ply cutting inter ply slippage dependability on operator's skill Productivity machine vibrations application of electronics application of pneumatics CNC RATING WEIGHTAGE 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Machine type Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Technology index for machine Features Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer Accuracy in cutting acute curves Height of a lay Possibility of notches Quality of notches Operator security Making manual marker Sharpening of blade Suitability for low ply cutting Inter ply slippage Dependability on operator's skill Productivity Machine vibrations Application of electronics Application of pneumatics

CNC D RATING WEIGHTAGE 5 5 4 4 4 4 5 4.13333333 3 3 4 5 2 4 4 4 5

Machine type Technology index for machine Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

BAND KNIFE C

Features RATING WEIGHTAGE Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer 4 Accuracy in cutting acute curves 3 Height of a lay 5 Possibility of notches 4 Quality of notches 4 Operator security 4 Making manual marker 2 3.6 Sharpening of blade 3 Suitability for low ply Cutting 3 Inter ply slippage 4 Dependability on operator's skill 3 Productivity 4 Machine vibrations 4 Application of electronics 3 Application of pneumatics 4

Machine type Technology index for machine Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

BANND KNIFE C RATING WEIGHTAGE 4 3 4 4 4 4 2 3.6 3 3 4 3 5 4 3 4

Features Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer Accuracy in cutting acute curves Height of a lay Possibility of notches Quality of notches Operator security Making manual marker Sharpening of blade Suitability for low ply Cutting Inter ply slippage Dependability on operator's skill Productivity Machine vibrations Application of electronics Application of pneumatics

Machine type Technology index for machine Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

STRAIGHT KNIFE C RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 4 3 4 2 4 3.33333333 3 4 3 4 4 2 2

Features Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer Accuracy in cutting acute curves Height of a lay Possibility of notches Quality of notches Operator security Making manual marker Sharpening of blade Suitability for low ply cutting Inter ply slippage Dependability on operator's skill Productivity Machine vibrations Application of electronics Application of pneumatics

Machine type technology index for machine Sr.no. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

STRAIGHT KNIFE C RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 4 3 4 2 4 3.33333333 3 4 3 4 4 2 2

Features Cutting consistency between top and bottom layer accuracy in cutting acute curves height of a lay possibility of notches quality of notches operator security making manual marker sharpening of blade suitability for low ply cutting inter ply slippage dependability on operator's skill Productivity machine vibrations application of electronics application of pneumatics

Final Rating of Spreading & Cutting

MACHINES AUTOMATIC PIN TABLE CNC BAND KNIFE STRAIGHT KNIFE DEPARTMENT INDEX TECHNOLOGY INDEX Silver Spark Richa 3.72 3.45 3.27 3.63 4.13 0 3.6 3.6 3.33 3.33 2.80 3.61

Final Rating of Spreading & Cutting

4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0

RICHA SILVERSPARK

SEWING

Machine type Machine name Technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming

BLIND STITCH STROBEL B RATING WEIGHTAGE 4 4 4 3 1 3 2 2 3

8 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics 9 control over SPI and balanced stitches

Contd.
sr no FEATURES 10 machine vibrations 11 computerized step 12 vertical edge trimmer loading and unloading of 13 components 14 applications of electronics 15 application of pneumatic 16 recording production 17 auto start and stop RATING 3 2 2 2.411764706 3 2 1 1 1 WEIGHTAGE

Machine type Machine name Technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics

BLIND STITCH STROBEL B RATING 4 4 4 3 1 3 2 2 WEIGHTAGE

Contd..
Sr no FEATURES 9 control over SPI and balanced stitches 10 machine vibrations 11 computerized step 12 vertical edge trimmer 13 loading and unloading of components 14 applications of electronics 15 application of pneumatic 16 recording production 17 auto start and stop RATING 3 3 2 2 2.41176470 3 2 1 1 1 WEIGHTAGE

Machine type machine name technology index for machine sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics

SNLS JUKI C RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 3 4 3 3 3

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES 9 control over SPI and balanced stitches 10 machine vibrations 11 12 13 computerized step vertical edge trimmer loading and unloading of components RATING 4 WEIGHTAGE

4
4 1 3.17647059 4

14
15 16 17

applications of electronics
application of pneumatic recording production auto start and stop

3
3 2 1

Machine type machine name technology index for machine sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics

SNLS D/A C RATING 3 4 4 4 4 3 5 3 WEIGHTAGE

Contd..
Sr no FEATURES 9 control over SPI and balanced stitches 10 machine vibrations 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 computerized step vertical edge trimmer loading and unloading of components applications of electronics application of pneumatic recording production auto start and stop RATING 4 4 3 1 3.23529411 4 3 3 2 1 WEIGHTAGE

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

SNCS UNION SPECIAL B

RATING 4 4 3 4 4 3 0 2 0 WEIGHTAGE

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics 11 control over SPI and balanced stitches
12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

3 4
4 3 0 4 4 2 1 1 2.941176471

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control

SNCS D/A C RATING WEIGHTAGE 4 5 4 4

5 flexibility of carrying different sewing

6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch

4
3 0 2

9 flush chain cutter

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES 10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics 11 control over SPI and balanced stitches 12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 5 4 4 3.35294117 3 4 4 2 1 1

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

Sr no FEATURES

BUTTON HOLE BARTACK PFAFF C

RATING 4 4 0 2 4 4 0 0 WEIGHTAGE

1 Inter ply slippage

2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics control over SPI and balanced stitches machine vibrations computerized step vertical edge trimmer loading and unloading of components applications of electronics application of pneumatic recording production auto start and stop

3 4 3 3.714285714 4
4 4 4 4 4

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing

BUTTON HOLE BARTACK BROTHER C RATING WEIGHTAGE o 4 4 2

6 dependability on operators skills

7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

4
4

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics

11 control over SPI and balanced stitches
12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

3
4
3 3 0 4 3.642857143 4 4 4 4

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

Sr no FEATURES

BUTTON HOLE REECE C

RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 Inter ply slippage

2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

4
4 3 0 0 5 4 0 0

Contd.
sr no FEATURES ability to handle dimensionally 10 unstable fabrics 11 control over SPI and balanced stitches 12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer RATING 3 4 4 4 0 3.714285714 WEIGHTAGE

15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics

17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

4 4
2 4 3

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

Sr no FEATURES

BUTTON HOLE D/A C

RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 Inter ply slippage

2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

4
5 3 0 0 5 4 0 0

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics

11 control over SPI and balanced stitches
12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

3
4
4 4 o 3.857142857 4 4 2 4 4

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

Sr no FEATURES

OVER LOCK UNION SPECIAL C

RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 Inter ply slippage

2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

4
5 4 4 3 5 4 3

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics 11 control over SPI and balanced stitches
12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

4 4
4 3.388888889 1 5 3 4 2 1 1

Machine type machine name technology index for machine

Sr no FEATURES 1 Inter ply slippage 2 machine speed 3 lubrication system 4 individual ply control 5 flexibility of carrying different sewing 6 dependability on operators skills 7 auto thread trimming 8 back latch 9 flush chain cutter

OVER LOCK MOUSER C

RATING 4 4 3 4 3 4 4 3 WEIGHTAGE

Contd.
Sr no FEATURES RATING WEIGHTAGE

10 ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics 11 control over SPI and balanced stitches
12 machine vibrations 13 computerized step 14 vertical edge trimmer 15 loading and unloading of components 16 applications of electronics 17 application of pneumatic 18 recording production 19 auto start and stop

4 4
4 3 5 3.333333333 3 4 2 1 1

Final Result of Sewing Department

TECHNOLOGY INDEX MACHINES Richa Silver Spark 2.411

BLIND STITCH
SNLS SNCS BUTTON HOLE BARTACK

2.411
3.17 2.94 3.71

3.23
3.35 3.64

BUTTON HOLE
OVER LOCK

3.71
3.38

3.85
3.33

AVG INDEX FOR SEWING DEPT.

3.22

3.30

Final Result of Sewing Department

4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0

RICHA SILVERSPARK

Finishing Department

Finishing Department
Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr No FEATURES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 FNT & BCK PRESSING MACPI C RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 4 4 2 3.727272727 4 5 2 4 5

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr.no FEATURES

FNT & BCK PRESSING MACPI D RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

3 4 4 4 4 2 4
5 5 4 5

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

SHOULDER ,ARMHOLE & SLEEVE PRESSING MACPI D RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 4 5 3 4.090909091 4

8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

4 4 5 5

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

SHOULDER ,ARMHOLE & SLEEVE PRESSING MACPI,SHANGAI VWEISHI,INDU C RATING WEIGHTAE 3 3 4 4 4 3 3.54545455 3

8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

4 3 4 4

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES

COLLAR MASTER MACPI D RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

3 4 4 4 5 3 4.181818182 4
4 5 5 5

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES

COLLAR MASTER INDU C RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

3 4 4 4 4 2 3.45454545 4
4 2 3 4

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

TOUCH UP MACPI C RATING WEIGHTAGE 3 4 4 4 2 2 3.090909091 4 3 2 3 3

steam Vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

Machine type machine name technology index for machine Sr no FEATURES

TOUCH UP MACPI C RATING WEIGHTAGE

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

steam vacuum on board control over temperature control over time dependability on operators skill steam loss in to environment productivity ability to handle dimensionally unstable fabrics ability to handle 3-D forms ability to maintain texture of fabric operator's ease

3 4 4 4 2 3.09090909 2 4 3 2 3 3

Final Rating Of Finishing Department

MACHINES TECHNOLOGY INDEX RICHA 3.72 4.09 4.18 3.09 3.77

FRONT & BACK PRESSING SHOULDER ARMHOLE & SLEEVE PRESSING COLLAR MASTER TOUCH UP DEPARTMENTAL INDEX

SILVERSPARK 4
3.45 3.45 3.09 3.4975

Final Rating Of Finishing Department

4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0

RICHA SILVERSPARK

Final Rating Of All Department

DEPARTMENT INDEX TECHNOLOGY INDEX RICHA SILVERSPARK 2.802 3.610 3.210 3.301 3.77 3.4975 3.26233333 3.415166667

SPREADING & CUTTING SEWING FINISHING ORGANIZATION INDEX

Organizational Index
4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0

RICHA SILVERSPARK

Conclusion
We have studied the Technologies of two companies named
RICHA Group SILVERSPARK

for three departments which are Spreading & Cutting

Sewing Department
Finishing Department

Contd.
By considering different parameter for each departments we had graded them between A to E & rated between 1 to 5. Finally we come to conclusion after considering these departments for two companies is that organizational index of Silverspark is more as compare to Richa. So technology for production & machinery used by Silver spark is much better as compare to Richa Group.

amitsah86@gmail.com