Professional Documents
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Modern Italian Food and Wine
contents
Introduction
Ancient Information Highways 1
La Strada del Vino 2
La Strada della Cucina 5
Roman Roads
Via AppiaLazio 11
Via SalariaLe Marche 45
Via FlaminiaUmbria 69
Via PostumiaVeneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia 105
Via Claudia AugustaTrentinoAlto Adige 139
Via AemiliaEmilia-Romagna and Lombardia 161
Via FrancigenaPiemonte and Valle dAosta 197
Via AureliaLiguria and Toscana 235
Resources
Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques 271
Basic Recipes, and Ingredients 275
Acknowledgments 285
Index 287
Recipes
Via AppiaLazio 11
Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup 17
Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy
Mayonnaise 19
Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeo,
and Radish 20
Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad 22
Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper 24
Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and
Spring Garlic 26
Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with
Cranberry Beans 29
Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel
Sauce 31
Spring Lamb 33
Via FlaminiaUmbria 69
Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad
and Horseradish Gelatina 75
Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina,
Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread 78
Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle 80
Tagliatelle dOro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms,
and Black Truffle 84
Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Rag 85
Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and
Dandelion Greens 86
Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio
Crema, and Brown Butter 89
Suckling Pig 91
Baked Anchovies 55
Passatelli en Brodo 56
Lasagna Vincisgrassi 58
Baked Anchovies
In nearly every region in Italy, anchovies find their way to
the table. Piemontese cooks may infuse salted anchovies in
butter for bagna cauda, while in Le Marche they serve them
roasted. Baking is one of the best ways to prepare this
small, immensely flavorful fish. If you are new to cleaning
whole fish, this is a forgiving place to start. (The technique
given here also works with sardines.) If you have a batch
of garlic confitura (page 279), pour off some of the oil and
use it instead of the olive oil called for in this recipe.
serves 4 to 6
680 grams 11/2 pounds whole fresh anchovies
extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and black pepper
2 lemons
about 1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs
10 bay leaves
v i a postumi a
V eneto and
Fr i ul i -V ene z i a G i ul i a
105
the area between Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, a dramatic series of slopes covered in vines, has changed from
a chain of farming communities into a wealthy enclave.
Within this area, Cartizze, with its moraine, sandstone,
and clay soils, is considered the top vineyard for Prosecco.
Sparkling wines made from Cartizze fruit carry a distinct mineral backbone with a delicate nose of peaches
and cream. But with one hectare valued at 2.5 million
euros in 2011one of the highest for vineyard land in
ItalyCartizzes prestige raises the question of just how
easygoing Prosecco can afford to stay.
The wines global success also has led to a host of
imitators. Because Prosecco was once the name of both
the grape and the wine, anyone using the grape could
call his sparkling wine Prosecco. Producers from Treviso,
including Conegliano, Valdobbiadene, and Asolo, another
classic area of Prosecco production, lobbied to restrict
the use of the label Prosecco to wines made in the classic
zones and succeeded. Now wines made with Glera grapes
grown outside classic Prosecco areas cannot be called
Prosecco.
In Soave, winemakers also have struggled to defend
the quality of their wine brand. When Garganega, the
main grape in Soave, is planted on the stony terraced
hillsides of Soave Classico near Verona, it turns ripe and
slightly savory with a nutty, lemony flavor. The same
grape, however, becomes lean and bland when planted
in the fertile plains, where the zones boundaries were
inexplicably extended. As volumes rose, quality became
diluted and the mix of grapes changed to include more
Trebbiano Toscano and less Garganega.
The best bet when buying Soave is to look for
names of makers that have focused on Garganega. In
1971, Leonildo Pieropan released Il Calvarino, the first
single-vineyard Soave, soon followed by a more steely
single-vineyard wine, La Rocca. Both wines remain top
performers in the region. Graziano Pr, a gentleman
farmer and local winemaking hero, produces complex,
well-structured Soaves as well, especially his Monte Grande
bottling. Aged in its lees in thirty-hectoliter casks, this
Soave Classico brings out the natural luster of Garganega
with accents of lemon peel, wax bean, and stone fruit.
The regions other white wines are a similar mix of
grapes found in Soave. Made in Vincenza, Gambellara
106 spqr
serves 4 to 6
120 spqr
Unwrap the dough and roll it out following the instructions for laminated pasta on page 273. Cut the pasta
into 10-inch sheets and dust with flour. Lay the sheets
on a work surface and, using a fluted pasta cutter or a
knife, cut them into 1/2-inch-wide ribbons, and place on a
lightly floured baking sheet until ready to cook.
serves 6
Pasta
300 grams 21/3 cups 00 flour
200 grams 13/4 cups farro flour or whole wheat flour
2 grams 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
200 grams 4 eggs
115 grams 1/2 cup butter
57 grams 1/4 cup white wine
115 grams 1/2 cup heavy cream
1 gram 11/2 teaspoons poppy seeds
40 grams 2 green onions, sliced thinly on an angle
83 grams 3 ounces (1/2 cup) thinly sliced speck
kosher salt and black pepper
a block of grana padano for grating
130 spqr
serves 6
Coconut Macaroons
200 grams 2 1/2 cups sweetened shredded coconut
200 grams 3/4 cup condensed milk
1 gram 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
20 grams 1 egg white, at room temperature
1 gram 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
Panna Cotta
9 grams 3 sheets gelatin
175 grams 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
240 grams 1 cup whole milk
230 grams 1 cup heavy cream
250 grams 1 cup passion fruit pure
Coconut Spuma
70 grams scant 1/3 cup heavy cream
25 grams 1/8 cup sugar
1 to 2 grams 1/2 sheet gelatin
200 grams 3/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
Printed in China
ISBN: 978-1-60774-052-0
Lindgren, Shelley.
SPQR : modern Italian food and wine / by
Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino
with Kate Leahy.
p. cm.
1. Cooking, Italian. I. Accarrino, Matthew.
II. Leahy, Kate. III. Title.
TX723.L548 2012
641.5945dc23
2012014120
S
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