2009 Burgundy

2011 Tim Atkin

his 2009 Burgundy report represents the fruit of a months tasting, talking and writing in France and the UK. Its my take on a very good and quite possibly brilliant vintage, although to paraphrase what Zhou Enlai said about the impact of the French Revolution, it may still be too early to tell. Following on from a well-received overview of 2009 Bordeaux, this is my first stab at an annual report on the most complex wine region on earth.
As it was in Bordeaux, the 2009 Burgundy harvest has been hyped by wine merchants desperate for much-needed turnover, but I think the high praise is mostly justified. In 25 years of tasting Burgundy, this is one of the greatest vintages Ive encountered. The best wines will sell for exorbitant sums (and just wait for the releases from Domaine Leroy and the Domaine de la Romane-Conti), but there are lots of bargains, too. Any serious lover of Burgundy (and especially red Burgundy) will want a few cases of 2009 in his or her cellar, but the wines deserve a wider, less fanatical audience too. The best reds at every price level are some of the sweetest, most succulent Burgundies I have ever come across. Anyone who enjoys good Pinot Noir will find them difficult to resist. While less exciting, the whites are good and sometimes delicious, too. Now might not the best time to be spending money on wine, but you wont regret purchasing such pleasurable bottles.

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The vintage at a glance.

2009 was a great vintage in Burgundy and most of France, for that matter. The wines are characterized by ripe, full-bodied fruit flavours, low (or lowish) acidity and shortto medium-term appeal. The very best wines will age for longer than that, but this is a vintage to drink and enjoy young.

This was a red wine vintage that was equally good in the Cte de Beaune and the Cte de Nuits. For the whites, the results were more mixed, so much so that the crisper 2008s are sometimes a better buy. The Cte Chalonnaise performed well in 2009, but the Mconnais and, more surprisingly given its northerly location, Chablis were less exciting. Beware of whites that mature too quickly in bottle.

This is a better vintage for red wines than whites, although there are some wonderful examples of the latter, especially from St Aubin and Puligny-Montrachet, where the top wines are sublime. For reds, my stand-out communes were Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-St-Georges and Vosne-Romane. Comparisons have been made, inevitably, with 1999, but also with 2001, 1985, 1979 and 1959. The best wines are fantastic, but the vintage is not uniform by any means. Is it ever in Burgundy, where the structure of the vineyard holdings and the multiplicity of owners militate against generalisations? 2009 has a character of its own, although it has things in common with previous vintages.

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This is a year when so-called lesser sites (right down to generic level) often made very drinkable wines, especially if they were cooler and produced grapes with fresh acidity, which was at a premium. In 2009, you can afford to trade down and still drink well. There are lots of really good wines under 20 a bottle, the very territory where Burgundy sales have been under threat from the likes of New Zealand, Australia and Chile.

Compared with Bordeaux, prices are reasonable; most producers increased them by no more than 5-10%. You can buy a case of Grand Cru red or white for less than 1000 in bond, which is half to a quarter of the price of the 2009 Bordeaux first growths and super seconds. Quantities were bigger than in 2008 (and the red wines superior) so there should be enough wine to go around, except from the superstar domains. Speculation is less rife in Burgundy than Bordeaux.

You might choose to fill your cellar with several cases of Bourgogne Rouge and Hautes Ctes de Nuits, rather than a six-pack of one Grand Cru. The difference in quality is much narrower than in a cooler year like 2004 or 2008, when well-exposed sites generally made the best wines. Dehydration and high alcohols were a problem in some cases. Those who picked early (or blocked the malolactic fermentations on some tanks and barrels) generally made the best wines. Over-ripeness is the Achilles heel of 2009, but thats better than rot or green, gum-stinging under-ripeness. And when I say over-ripe, Im not talking 2003, the worst vintage of the last decade. Some purists have sought to dismiss the merits of 2009, arguing that the reds lack complexity. They may not have the structure of the 2005s, but they more than make up for it in terms of sheer pleasure. Like 1982 in Bordeaux, these wines are deceptively forward and have the power to age. That said, this is a vintage for wine drinkers, not Burgundy nerds. Pinot Noir at its best is all about hedonism and 2009 provides it. Drink your 2009s while youre waiting for the 2005s to soften in bottle. As ever, you should only buy from merchants with a track record. Burgundy doesnt attract the same quantity of cowboys as Bordeaux (partly because it doesnt yield the same easy profits), but its still worth pausing before you part with your money up front. Most of these wines will be shipped now or later this year, so there is less of a time lag (and less danger of someone absconding with your money) than in Bordeaux. For UK punters, I strongly recommend all of the 16 merchants listed at the end of this report.

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These notes and scores need to be read for what they are: a snapshot in time. The wines that I tasted were young and, in many cases, unfinished wines, some of which wont be bottled until later this year. Wines change in barrel, as well as bottle. Its also worth remembering that, as in Bordeaux, the Burgundy en primeur extravaganza is a sales pitch. Producers would be crazy not to select their best barrels to show the press and the trade, although this is less prevalent than in the Gironde, partly because quantities are tiny.
There is also the small matter of human error. Unlike some tasters, I am happy to admit that I dont always get things right, especially on days when Ive assessed more than 300 wines in cramped London tasting conditions. That is one of the many reasons I believe it is essential to taste in the comparative peace and calm of Burgundian cellars. For all its faults, this is an honest appraisal of a very good vintage: a first draft of history, if you like. Inevitably, given the fragmentation of the Burgundian trade, no one can taste everything and visit everyone. Notable absentees in my report are the Domaine de la Romane-Conti (whose wines will be released in 2012), Domaine Ramonet, Domaine Jean-Marie Raveneau, Domaine Vincent Dauvissat, Domaine Jean-Franois Coche-Dury, Domaine Leroy (I only tasted the 2008s and two 2009s, but will report on the rest in June) and Domaine Georges Roumier. Theres always next year I tasted these wines in three tranches: in Burgundy in September and December 2010 and in London in January 2011 when I went to 16 en primeur tastings put on by importers and attended by growers. In some cases, I tasted the same wine two, three or even four times over the space of four months. Overall, I made notes on more than 2,000 different wines. Which ones do you need to know about? Burgundy is infinitely more complicated than Bordeaux. In the latter, a single chteau often produces just three or four wines. In Burgundy, a single domaine (not to mention ngociant) could easily make 20 or more. If I were to publish my notes on 2,000 wines this report would run to book length, which is not my aim. Instead Ive done the selection for you. These are my favourite 200 wines of the vintage. Ive broken this down into 100 top reds, 50 top whites and 50 wines under 250 in bond for Burgundy lovers on a budget. Where I know the

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exact price, or even prices, I have provided them. Where the wine has no UK importer or has not yet been shipped, I have used between one () and five () pound signs to give you some idea of what it will cost. The UK importers of the 31 domaines and ngociants I visited in Burgundy as well as the

204 whose wine I tasted or retasted in London are given in the list of producers, so your first move should be to consult their websites. Prices vary from merchant to merchant, so dont be afraid to haggle. Some of these wines will be in very short supply and may even have sold out, so be prepared to shop around to find the wines you want. Trust me, its worth it.

Have a look at the example below to see how Ive organized the information for each wine.

Producer Name, Region or Village, Vineyard

(Price, Importer - see page 40 for an explanation of the codes) A short tasting note and other pertinent information. Drink from date.

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The best of 2009.

THE BEST OF THE BEST
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Domaine des Comtes Lafon Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Domaine Claude Dugat Domaine Fourrier Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Domaine de Montille Domaine Jacques Prieur Domaine de la Vougeraie Domaine Armand Rousseau

THE BEST VALUE PRODUCERS

Domaine Stphane Aladame Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Dmaine Robert Chevillon Domaine Franoise & Denis Clair Domaine Marc Colin Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Domaine Pierre Damoy Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy

TEN PRODUCERS TO WATCH

Olivier Bernstein Domaine Samuel Billaud Domaine David Clark Domaine Franois Faiveley Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Domaine Hudelot-Nollat Domaine Frdric Magnien Domaine Taupenot-Merme Domaine de la Pousse dOr Maison Roche de Bellene

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Winemakers of Burgundy
Portraits by Tim Atkin

From left to right, top to bottom: Olivier Leriche, Pierre Vincent, Louis-Michel Liger-Belair, Nadine Gublin, Claude Dugat, Dominique Lafon, Jean-Marie Fourrier, Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinire, Syvlain Cathiard, Kellen Lignier.

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From left to right, top to bottom: Frdric Robert, Vincent Girardin, Patrick Landanger, Sylvain Pitiot, Jean-Philippe Fichet, Boris Champy, Eric Rmy, Jacques Seysses, Vronique Drouhin, Jacques Carillon, Richard Sguin.

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Tim Atkin Burgundy 2009 Top 100 Reds.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Chambertin
(, OWL; HR) Ive no idea what the release price of this will be, but its worth it for perfection. Power, sweetness, silky tannins, seamless oak, vivacity, perfume and understated concentration. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair La Romane

(9000, J&B) Sweet yet complex in the mouth, this hits you with wave after wave of flavours. Dense, concentrated, yet vibrantly fruity, with texture, tannin and smoky concentration. 10+ years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Chambertin

(895, C&B; 1005, Mo) Biodynamic viticulture and the use (for the first time) of one third whole bunch fermentation have contributed to the brilliance of this wine. Finesse, class and style. Beautifully balanced. 5-10 years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de Bze

(, OWL; HR) Darker and more structured than the Chambertin, with the oak more in evidence at this stage, but this is still a stunning wine: very fine and long, with good structure and velvety tannins. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin

() The only Grand Cru in the Fourrier line up, this makes you wish he had more. Cinnamon oak and wild strawberry on the nose backed up by a savoury, spicy, structured, yet vivid palate. You wish he had more of them. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Ruchottes-Chambertin

(, OWL; HR) There was no new oak on this 2009 to retain the freshness of one of the highest Grands Crus. This needs time, but has incredible persistence and elegance, with lovely savoury complexity. 5-10+ years

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Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Romane-St-Vivant

(3550, OWL) Cathiard only makes three barrels of this which partly explains the price but this is also his best wine: fresh, complex, structured, savoury, yet heart-stoppingly seductive. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Musigny

(, BBR) All new oak, all de-stemmed (by hand) and an amazing result. Spicy and refined with restrained power, lovely poise and a finish that goes on for minutes. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin, Les Mazoyres

(720, BBR) Inexpensive given the quality of the wine and the age of the vines (100 years), this is firm, sappy and powerful, with lots of whole bunch and a core of plum, chocolate and raspberry fruit. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin

(, GtW) Dense, concentrated and quite oaky from barrel (and theres only one and half of them), this unfurls in the glass, with layer upon layer of flavour and a muscular, tannic finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Leroy Latricires-Chambertin

() Lalou Bize doesnt want to show her 2009s until later this year, but she did let me sample this Grand Cru. Powerful, concentrated and tightly wound, but with incredible depth. 8-10+ years.

Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazis-Chambertin

(, OWL; HR) Aged in one year old oak, this is one of the most delicate Rousseau wines. Fresh and refined with wild strawberry and rose petal perfume, silky tannins and crisp minerality. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux

(1800, J&B) From the Vosne side of the cru, this is another spectacular wine from this rapidly improving domaine. Sweet, almost juicy red fruits, with violets on the nose and ripe, supple tannins. 5-10 years.

Maison Joseph Drouhin Griottes-Chambertin

() Anyone who thinks of Drouhin as a white wine specialist should taste this. Its quite muscular, but the liquorice, black fruits and sweet texture are beautifully balanced. 6-10+ years

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Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Chapelle-Chambertin

(650, C&B; 725, Mo) Another wonderful Grand Cru from this increasingly impressive domaine. The stemmy whole bunch character (20%) adds complexity and sap to the sweetness and purity of the wine. 3-8 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Charmes-Chambertin

(738, L&S) Typical of the very drinkable, sensuous wines from this domaine, this is succulent and complex with sweet Pinot fruit, understated oak and very fine tannins. Almost drinkable now. 1-7 years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romane PC Les Suchots

(1150, OWL) Another outstanding wine from this brilliant domaine: intense, structured, vigorous with lots of smoky oak, fine tannins and sweet red and black fruits. Complex and long. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Hudelot-Nollat Romane-St-Vivant

(1850, Go; 2020, Lay) Essence of the refined H-N style, this is elegant, lightly oaked and very fine with silky, succulent raspberry fruit and gentle, sweet tannins. Utterly delicious and will improve in bottle. 3-10+ years.

Comte de Vogu Musigny

(, C &B) Just ahead of the Bonnes Mares in terms of complexity and perfume, this is a delicious Musigny, a wine that caresses the palate. Gentle fruit, seamless oak, lovely minerality and length. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Chambertin

() This old vine parcel has produced the best Prieur red, a herbal, aromatic, textured Pinot with grace and spice, fine tannins and layer upon layer of complexity and sweet fruit. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Faiveley Clos de Bze

(1500, BBR) Youthful, racy and pure, this Grand Cru red exemplifies recent improvements at this producer. The wine is balanced, poised and complex, with amazing depth and palate length. 5-10+ years.

Clos de Tart
(, C&B) I tasted the six component parts of this wine from barrel, rather than the finished blend, but its potentially amazing, with real structure, perfumed oak and floral finesse. 5-10+ years.

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Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St Georges PC Les Murgers

(900, BBR: 960, OWL; , Go) One of the softer, sweeter wines in the Cathiard range in 2009, despite the low-yielding old vines. Soft, creamy and very fine with intense raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. 5-10+ years.

Olivier Bernstein Clos de Bze

(, BBR) Rich, aromatic, polished and textured, this marks a new high for this up-and-coming producer. Supple, summer pudding sweetness with fine-grained tannins and oak spice. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romane PC En Orveaux

(897, L&W; Go) Old vines and 100% new oak, yet neither ponderous nor over-ripe, this shows supple berry fruit sweetness, complexity and freshness on the palate. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Clos St Jacques

(1030, Mo; 1056, HR) The final blend has only 20% new oak, so as not to overwhelm the fruit. Fennel, red fruits, some cedarwood and ginger spice are all intertwined on the palate. Long and complete. 5-10+ years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romane PC Petits Monts

(1300, J&B) This comes from a parcel next to Richebourg and is a great wine. Savoury, sweet oak, fine tannins, deep colour, red cherry and raspberry fruit, hint of smoke and haunting balance. 5-10 years.

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romane PC Aux Reignots

(1450, J&B) Often a little closed in its youth, this is just beginning to display its wares: energy, bright fruit, crunchy acidity, silky concentration and lovely, supple length. 5-10+ years.

Olivier Bernstein Clos de Vougeot

(, BBR) This mini-ngociant in Gevrey is making some stunning reds at the moment. This is a big, strapping wine with lots of oak and luscious flavours of plum and spice underpinned by acidity. 6-10+ years.

Domaine Frdric Magnien Bonnes Mares

() Very much a modern style, but this is an extrmely polished red, which carries its 80% new oak with ease. Youthful, black fruits, mid-weight tannins, fresh acidity and a firm finish. 5-10+ years.

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Vincent Girardin Corton Renardes

(, Bib) Vincent Girardin reduced the amount of new oak here in 2009 to allow the fruit to sing. Its got good structure, with smoky oak, aromatic plum and black cherry fruit and fine tannins. 4-10 years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon PC Volnay Santenots

(, BBR) One of a number of excellent Volnays from Dominique Lafon in 2009. Violets and red cherries on the nose, sweet fruit on the palate with crunchy acidity and plush tannins. 5-10 years.

Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romane PC Aux Malconsorts

() From a vineyard on the edge of La Tche, this is appealingly edgy, adding freshness to the sweet Vosne fruit. Silky, leafy and complex with crisp underlying acidity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Echezeaux

(655, Lay; 700, Ar) An approachably-priced Grand Cru from a domaine that excelled in 2009. Elegant, toasty and beautifully-framed Pinot with length, balance, sweet fruit and grip. 4-10+ years.

Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons

(720, BBR) Deeply coloured, yet very aromatic and open with violets and plums on the nose. The palate is poised and well balanced, with smoky oak and intense raspberry and hedgerow fruits. 5-10 years.

Domaine L& A Lignier Clos de la Roche

(990, FW) A low-yielding triumph from Kellen Lignier that will take some time to come around. Strapping, smoky and very serious, yet with sweet, voluptuous red fruits and balancing acidity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays

(795, Lay; 843, L&S; 850, HH&C, Go) Theres no denying the slight stalkiness in this wine from partial whole bunch fermentation, but its a very complex Pinot, with masses of savoury depth and a smoky, nuanced finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Taupenot Merme Mazoyres-Chambertin

(750, Ar) One of the discoveries of my recent Burgundy visit, this organic domaine has made some great 2009s. This smoky, spicy, complex, brambly, concentrated Grand Cru is delicious. 5-10+ years.

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Domaine de la Pousse dOr Bonnes Mares

() Tasted from barrel in December 2010, this was the star wine at this revitalised domaine: slick, harmonious and scented with freshness, balance and an undertow of tannin. 4-10 years.

Domaine Dujac Clos-St Denis

() Very low yields in 2009 because of hail before flowering resulted in extra concentration here. Sappy and stemmy but with silky, ripe fruit and complex earthy and animal undertones. 5-10 years.

Domaine Hudelot-Nollat Clos de Vougeot

(785, Go) A wine with the structure to age well, this is quite dense at the moment with plummy black fruit and chocolate on the palate, toasty coffee bean oak and impressive texture. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin Premiers Crus

(, GtW) A blend of two Premiers Crus, this is the wine to go for if youre looking for a bargain chez Dugat. Elegant, balanced and nutmeg spicy, its fresh, sweetly oaked and very harmonious. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Clos de Vougeot

(720, Ar) Very pure and refined, especially for a Clos de Vougeot, with a lovely tension between acidity and juicy, lip-smacking fruit flavours. Very harmonious and long. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Taupenot-Merme Corton Rognet

(525, Ar) This is only the fifth vintage from this site, but its clearly a winner. Smoky and clothed in oak at present, but with sweet, wild strawberry and bramble fruit and fresh acidity beneath. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux

(840, HR) Sourced from two different parts of the cru (high and low), this is a powerful wine with plenty of tannin and extraction backed up by bright acidity and velvety, sweet fruit. 5-10 years.

Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romane PC Aux Malconsorts

(1290, BBR; 1390, OWL) Very closed when I tasted it from barrel, and again in London, this is dense, chewy and quite firm, especially for the vintage, but it has amazing depth and concentration. 5-10+ years.

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Domaine de Montille Pommard PC Pzerolles

(535, OWL; 540, BBR) Sourced from what can be one of the most tannic crus in Pommard, this is surprisingly pale and aromatic in 2009. Its also very elegant, with sweet tannins, stylish oak and great length. 4-10 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Latricires-Chambertin

(725, Mo; 732, BBR) A site that generally does well in warmer years, this is light, refreshing and refined with supple sweetness, lovely perfume and a complex, tapering finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot

(720, BBR) Pierre Vincent is making some fantastic wines at Vougeraie right now, typified by this sweetly-oaked Grand Cru. Pure, very fine, minerally and complex with very forward red fruit flavours. 3-8 years.

Domaine Gantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin

(775, Go) Very aromatic, with the ripe fruit flavours that are typical of the vintage. Lots of oak and structure too, with savoury depth and sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit. Still a baby. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin

(900, FW) This may not age for decades, but whos counting? Its so delicious right now that its irresistible: fleshy, harmonious and supple with sweet tannins and great length. 3-8 years.

Chteau de La Tour, Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes

(1195, C&B) Firm and concentrated, with masses of underlying fruit power, opulent tannins, smoky oak and impressive old vine concentration. A Clos de Vougeot that is worthy of the name. 5-15 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romane PC Les Suchots

(475, OWL; 490, FW) Still a little backward when I tasted it in January, but theres no denying the quality here: leafy, quite firm, with marked acidity for the vintage and a fresh, tangy finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine de la Vougeraie Chambolle-Musigny

() A third of this wine is made up of declassified Premiers Crus, which may well explain its quality. Stylish cherry and raspberry fruit, ripe tannins, subtle oak and a balletic finish. 2-6 years.

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Domaine Duroch Latricires-Chambertin

(500, FW) Great value for a Grand Cru in such a good vintage, this is the best of Pierres wines in 2009. Stylish and concentrated, with savoury tannins and old vine fruit adding profundity. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin

(580, GWe; 650, BI) A touch of reduction on the nose, but this deeply coloured wine needs time in bottle. Its a complex red with fine tannins, considerable depth of fruit and impressive concentration. 5-10+ years.

Domaine L&A Lignier, Morey-St-Denis PC Romain Lignier

(650, FW) Eighty per cent new oak might sound like a lot for a Premier Cru, but this one can take it. Concentrated red and black fruits, lots of glycerol, a hint of stem and sappy freshness. 4-10 years.

Domaine de la Pousse dOr Volnay PC Clos de la Bousse dOr

(480, HR) The signature wine from this Volnay domaine (and the Bousse is correct) is a wine for long ageing: serious, oaky, yet aromatic with rich fruit and structured, firm tannins. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Chambolle Musigny PC Derrire la Grange

(531, L&S) One of a string of deliciously approachable 2009s from this domaine, this is a little oak-dominated but has sweet raspberry and red cherry fruit in abundance. Elegant and complex. 2-6 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Gevrey-Chambertin PC Lavaut St Jacques

(475, OWL) Deeply coloured and concentrated, this wine is still holding something in reserve. Its rich and powerful with firm black cherry and vanilla notes and plush tannins. 5-10 years.

Domaine des Lambrays, Morey St Denis PC Loups

(495, Go; 518, FW) Not far behind the Clos de Lambrays, but at just over half the price, this is savoury and slightly green with juicy, brambly fruit and some grip on the finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Humbert Frres Gevrey-Chambertin PC Estournelles-St-Jacques

(669, L&W) The pick of the wines from the Humbert brothers (Humbert Humbert, as it were) this is a very complete wine, approachable now, with sweet fruit and oak and smoky oak. 2-8 years.
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Domaine de Montille Volnay PC Taillepieds

(575, OWL, BBR; 590, FW) The spiciest and most mineral of the de Montille PCs in 2009 (as it often is in other years), this is dense and spicy with some sappy, tomato leaf notes and a fresh, savoury finish. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Marquis dAngerville Volnay PC Champans

(480, Mo) A wine that really sings in 2009, this is one of the best Champans Ive tasted from this domaine. Balanced, profound and opulent with sweet cherry and loganberry fruit and a fresh finish. 5-8 years.

Domaine Marquis dAngerville Volnay PC Clos des Angles

(395, Ar) The freshness of the dAngerville style worked well in 2009, as it did in 2003. This is subtle, perfumed and almost transparent in its expression of terroir. Balanced and fine. 3-10 years

Domaine Hudelot-Nollat Chambolle-Musigny PC Charmes

(560, Go; 590, FW) Supple, fragrant, well balanced: the sort of thing that makes Pinot drinkers go weak at the knees. Elegant, finely balanced, complex and harmonious. Now-6 years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Les Cherbaudes

(450, Ar; HR) Sourced from rocky soils where nothing grows according to Jean-Marie Fourrier, this is silky and violet-scented with delicate fruit flavours, a touch of aniseed and fine tannins. 3-8 years.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin PC Champeaux

(570, Go) Darker and denser than many of the Fourrier 2009s, with more marked tannins than some, this is rich and opulent on the palate with well-integrated oak and a stylish finish. 5-10+ years

Domaine Anne & Herv Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny PC Fues

(450, Ar) Lovely, scented Chambolle can one detect a feminine touch here? with sweet, aromatic oak stitched into the texture of the wine. Savoury, complex and supple. 2-5+ years

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Domaine de lArlot Nuits St Georges PC, Clos des Forts St Georges

(468, HR, Go; 495, C&B) A little closed at the moment perhaps, but this is dark and brooding with succulent black fruits, marked whole bunch character, sweet oak and considerable depth and structure. 3-10 years

Domaine Hudelot-Nollat Vosne-Romane PC Les Beaumonts

(495, Go; 550, Bib) The best of the HN Vosne Premiers Crus, succulent and spicy, this is very fragrant and deceptively forward and silky. The perfume is lovely now, but will develop further in bottle. 3-10 years.

Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romane PC Suchots

(426, L&S) No apologies for choosing another Confuron-Cotetidot wine. This is sweet, seductive and slightly sappy with supple, easy-drinking fruit and the underlying structure to develop in bottle. 3-8 years.

Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos de Bze

(825, Lay; 835, Go; 860, J&B) A wine in which the quality of the vineyard really shines through, this is a bold, textured Grand Cru with ripe aromas, lovely cherry and raspberry fruit and polished tannins. 4-10+ years.

Domaine de lArlot Nuits-St-Georges PC Clos de lArlot

(465, Go; 495, C&B) Open, appealing and attractive on the nose, this is delicate, elegant and aromatic, with notes of violet, wild strawberry and a savoury minerality. Very drinkable. 1-5 years.

Masion Roche de Bellne Bonnes Mares

(1250, Go) The best red from Nicolas Potels new ngociant business, this is wild, dense and savoury with some stemmy whole bunch notes and smoky oak. Needs time to settle. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Daniel Rion Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Hauts Pruliers

(405, Mo) Pale in colour and comparatively forward, with the freshness that comes from a cooler site, this is stylish and refreshing with juicy berry fruit and a nip of tannin. 3-6 years.

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Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Pommard PC Les Fremiers

(426, L&S) Arguably more Volnay than Pommard in style but thats 2009 for you in some ways this is stylish and harmonious with balanced red fruits and wonderful palate length. 3-8 years.

Domaine de Courcel Pommard PC Grand Clos des Epenots

(474, L&S) One of the leading names in Pommard on stellar form. Quite tannic and sturdy at the moment, but still made in a modern style. One to tuck away for a few years as it develops. 5-10 years.

Domaine Mo-Camuzet Nuits-St-Georges PC Aux Boudots

(960, L&W) Made in a characteristically modern style, this comes from the border with Vosne and is very silky and seductive, with supple tannins, lovely balance and bramble and violet fruit. 3-8 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

(265, Mo) Sourced from 45-year-old vines, this wine comes from the domaines most venerable parcels. It shows, too: a very serious village level wine, with plenty of body and texture. 3-7 years.

Domaine Joseph Voillot Pommard PC Rugiens

(455, Go) This Volnay-based domaine makes lovely Pommards, too. This is a little closed right now, but has real presence and depth with sweet, plump dark fruits and wellintegrated oak. 3-10+ years. z

Maison Camille Giroud Corton Le Rognet

(510, BBR) One of a number of very well made wines from this small ngociant house. This is which and full flavoured, with evident whole bunch character and lovely Pinot freshness and aromas. 3-8+ years.

Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin PC La Boissire

(315, GWe; 325, BI) Intense, youthful and very well priced for a Premier Cru of this quality, this is rich and fruit packed with sweet oak and fine-grained tannins adding to the complexity. 3-8 years.

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Domaine Louis Boillot Geverey-Chambertin PC Champonnets

(395, Go) An old vine Gevrey Premier Cru that encapsulates the ripeness of the vintage, but remains fresh and sappy at the same time. Aromatic, stylish and very pure, with understated oak. 3-8 years.

Domaine Simon Bize, Savigny Ls Beaune, Les Bourgeots

(225, Ar) Theres a freshness and purity to Patrick Bizes wines that works really well in 2009, adding a raciness to the fruit. Elegant, light and delicate with purity and sweet fruit. 3-7 years.

Domaine des Clos Beaune PC Grves

(220, Ar) This is certainly a gutsy, concentrated wine with quite a bit of tannin for the vintage, but the oak adds sweetness, while the underlying fruit is ripe, supple and textured. 5-8+ years.

Domaine Frdric Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin PC Lavaux-St-Jacques

(288, HR) Like many of the wines from this cooler Premier Cru, theres a lovely vivacity to this wine in 2009. Elegant, long and yet very plush with wild strawberry notes and a bright finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Volnay PC Caillerets

(315, OWL) Alex Moreau tried 25% whole bunch fermentation for the first time in 2009 and it worked. This is bright and slightly sappy with elegant tannins and appealing, brambly fruit. 5-8 years

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Chaignots

(450, HH&C) Extremely aromatic and polished for a NSG, with leafy elegance, stylish tannins and supple red fruits. The sort of wine you want to glug straight from the bottle. Now-5 years.

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny PC Les Baudes

(630, BBR) My favourite wine from this reliable domaine in 2009, showing more fruit and texture than other bottlings. Aromatic, elegant and refreshing, with fine tannins and appealing vivacity. 2-8 years.

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Domaine Faiveley Volnay PC Frmiets

(305, HH & C) Typical of recent improvements at Faiveley. Bold and expressive on the palate with freshness, texture and hints of warm earth, black olives and sweet new oak. 3-5 years

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

(260, Ar; 270, HR) For Fourrier lovers on a budget (and they are growing in number by the vintage) this entry point Gevrey is a must: forward, elegant and silky with cherry and raspberry fruit. 2-8 years.

Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges PC Les Vaucrains

(490, J&B) My favourite wine from this ever reliable domaine in 2009. Smoky, brambly and fruit forward with textured, underlying tannins, a hint of earthiness and intense black cherry and raspberry. 3-8 years.

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin PC La Petite Chapelle

(425, C&B) Yet another impressive wine from this Gevrey-based biodynamic domaine, with stylish oak, balanced, sappy red and black fruits and the underlying richness to age in bottle. 3-8 years

Domaine Pierre Labet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

(295, C&B) There isnt much of this (300 cases) but if you can find some, buy it because its textbook Gevrey: rich, savoury and complex with spicy blueberry and strawberry fruit and plush tannins. Now-5 years.

Domaine de Courcel Pommard PC Les Rugiens

(578, FW) Pretty serious Pommard, especially at the price. This will need a little time to settle in bottle and lose its slightly firm edge, but its supported by ripe, plummy fruit and sweet oak. 4-10 years.

Domaine Jean Tardy Nuits St Georges Bas de Combe

(285, BI) The new generation has continued the fine work of the old here. This comes from a 60-year-old parcel and its deliciously aromatic, harmonious and silky with a touch of Vosne about it. 3-8 years.

Domaine Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny

(280, BI) A textbook Chambolle showing the villages celebrated elegance and perfume. This is hauntingly sweet and perfumed, with supple wild strawberry fruit, subtle oak and fresh acidity. 1-5 years.

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Domaine Daniel Rion Vosne-Romane

(285, Mo) Great value village level Vosne from this NSG-based estate. A very pretty, aromatic wine with no obvious oak, sweet berry fruit and a pure, silky finish. 2-5 years.

Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Volnay PC Caillerets

(453, L&S) The excessive oak that sometimes marred earlier vintages has gone to be replaced by a sure and confident touch. Minerality and freshness underpin the sweet, savoury fruit here. 2-7 years.

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Tim Atkin Burgundy 2009 Top 50 Whites.

Domaine Louis Carillon Bienvenues Btard Montrachet
(1905, Mo; , L&W) This domaine may be about to be split in two, but this is a fitting tribute to its last year as a single entity. Two barrels only, but a wine of celestial complexity, poise and minerality. 3-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Le Montrachet

(, BBR) Allocations will be tiny (ditto production at six barrels) but this is one of my whites of the vintage. Spicy, bone dry, elegant and minerally with a hint of green malt and amazing richness. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Chevalier-Montrachet

(1,650, Lay) Made from vines in the southern part of the cru, this is a stunning wine: savoury, tangy and mouth-wateringly fresh with understated toasty oak and almost feral complexity. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Jacques Prieur Le Montrachet

(3,310, Lay) Also wonderful, but twice the price of the Chevalier. This was a little more closed in December 2010, but with complex notes of lees, vanilla, cinnamon spice and untapped power. 3-10+ years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Criots Btard Montrachet

(870, Ar; 890, OWL) Given the price of similar quality wines, this is one of the (comparative) bargains of the vintage. Complex, matchstick reduction, mineral purity and unbelievable palate length. 5-10+ years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault PC Charmes

(, BBR) This isnt far behind the quality of this domaines Le Montrachet in 2009. Sweet, powerful, spicy and succulently oaked with muscularity, minerality and tension on the palate. 3-8+ years.

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Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

(2500, Lay; Ar) The best of the wines from this legendary domaine in 2009. Its comparatively forward and ripe, with floral, honey and orange peel notes yet racy underlying acidity and texture. 3-8 years

Joseph Drouhin Le Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche

(3395, J&B; 3600, BBR) Produced in comparatively large quantities (36 barrels), this is one of a number of brilliant Drouhin whites in 2009. Smoky, textured, and with some grip for a white. Fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Btard Montrachet

(920, Ar) The Grands Crus from this domaine are a thing of wonder in 2009. The Btard is complex and profound with masses of fruit and creamy oak and a teasing, chalky minerality. 5-10+ years.

Domaine Jean Nol Gagnard Btard Montrachet

(1490, J&B) The pick of Caroline Lestims impressive range in 2009, this is mind-blowingly complex: rich, multi-faceted, with notes of butter, honey, nut and spice and a piercing, minerally finish. 3-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Btard Montrachet

(1450, Go) Not cheap, but this is a very impressive Grand Cru, with layer after layer of flavour on the palate. Intense, focused, exotic but with lovely spine of fresh acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne

(830, Go; C&B) This can be a little closed when young, but it was a stunner from barrel. Powerful, quite oaky, with flavours of hazelnut and honey underpinned by taut acidity and focused minerality. 3-10 years

Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues Btard Montrachet

(1900, Lay; Ar; J&B) Very concentrated, with lime blossom and intense fruit on the nose. Lovely minerality and tension on the palate, with flavours of peach, grapefruit and pear and plenty of power. 3-10 years.

Domaine Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne

() The best wine from Latours own vineyards in 2009. The nose is a little oaky, but theres plenty of texture, honeyed richness and spice on the palate, even for a Corton-Charlemagne. 4-10 years.

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Domaine Faiveley Btard Montrachet

(1560, BBR) Shows that the new Faiveley is equally adept at top whites as reds. An exotic white, with aniseed, a touch of tropical fruit, cashew nut and sappy, citrus-like freshness. 5-8+ years.

Domaine Rmi Rollin Corton-Charlemagne

(630, J&B) One of the best Corton-Charlemagnes Ive tasted from this domaine: rich yet restrained with subtle oak, zesty acidity and notes of vanilla spice and stone and citrus fruit. 3-8 years.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

() The lieu dit around the cellar is one of the best in Meursault and 2009 was no exception. Jasmine-scented, with a hint of chalky limestone, vanilla oak and a minerally, fresh finish. 3-10 years.

Vincent Girardin Bienvenues Btard Montrachet

() Acquired with the Henri Clerc domaine, this is Girardins best white in 2009: an approachable Grand Cru white with pear and citrus fruit, tangy acidity and a long, toasty finish. 3-8 years.

Joseph Drouhin Beaune PC Clos des Mouches

(560, J&B; 570, BBR) Given the choice between six cases of this or one of Le Montrachet, I know which Id pick. Aromatic, almost rose petal notes, grapefruit and spice, with lingering minerality. 3-8 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Perrires

(485, OWL; 459, HH & C; 500, J&B) The Sauzet wines are particularly good in 2009, typified by the length, minerality and seamless integration of this Premier Cru. Long and stylish. Now-7 years.

Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ-Canet

(545, OWL; 580, J&B) Another impressive PC, this time with a little more fruit expression, with some pear, citrus and floral notes. Once again, the finish is taut and elegant, giving the wine real definition. Now-5 years.

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Caillerets

(360, Ar; 415,Bib) This has some of the grace and minerality of the domaines Grands Crus, but at half the price. Elegant, slightly reductive style with chalky freshness and length. 2-8 years

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Domaine Roulot Meursault PC Charmes

(850, Ar) The price may be a little steep especially when you set it alongside Roulots Bourgogne Blanc but theres no denying that this a wonderful wine: rich, nutty, aromatic and very fresh. Now-5+ years

Domaine Jean Nol Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC Caillerets

(520, J&B; 540, BBR) Often the best value wine from this popular domaine, this is particularly good in 2009. Open and accessible with bags of concentration, subtle oak and nutty palate length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Henri Boillot Corton Charlemagne

(810, L&S) Very focused, yet still powerful and concentrated, this is fresh and tangy with subtle notes of oak spice, citrus fruit and fresh cashew and a long, stylish finish. Very long. 3-8 years.

Domaine Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet PC Les Referts

(466, L&W) Fresh, crisp and taut, this gives the lie to the opinion that the 2009 whites wont age. Its dry and almost salty with honeyed spice, a touch of pink grapefruit and understated power. 4-10 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Tesson

(365, Go) The richest of Fichets lieux dits, this is all honeysuckle and pear on the palate, with taut acidity restraining its more exuberant tendencies. Fresh, stylish and integrated. Bargain. 2-8 years

Domaine Patrick Javillier Corton Charlemagne

(780, Go) A rich, powerful, well-upholstered Corton with lots of oak but the structure and concentration to soak it up. Ripe, honeyed, but not fat in any way. Finishes with tangy acidity. 3-10+ years

Domaine Marc Colin Chassagne-Montrachet PC Chenevottes

(395, Go) Undoubtedly one of the superstar domaines of the vintage. This is chalky, refreshing and subtly oaked with pear and citrus fruit and a long, refreshing finish. A must buy at the price. Now-6 years

Domaine Jean Nol Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet PC La Boudriotte

(396, BBR) White flowers on the nose leading to a full, spicy, well-balanced palate with crunchy acidity, a touch of honey and a long, nuanced, lightly oaked finish. Very appealing. Now-8 years.

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Domaine William Fvre Chablis Les Clos

(498, HR; 510, Lay; 525, Ar) The most powerful of the Fvre Grands Crus, this is a Chablis for the long term. Its rich, oaky and slightly honeyed but with lovely underlying precision, length and minerality. 3-8+ years

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Clos de la Mouchre

(480, L&S) A really well chosen ngociant wine, with classic Puligny sap and minerality, this is beautifully balanced, with nuanced oak, tangy acidity and a smoky undertone. 2-7 years.

Chteau de Puligny-Montrachet Meursault PC Perrires

(498, BBR) Appropriately for a Meursault, theres more richness than in the chteaus Puligny wines here, but theres also some Puligny freshness. Rich and creamy but with real zing and balance. Now-5 years.

Maison Alex Gambal Meursault PC Genevrires

(425, OWL) American ex-pat Gambal is making better wines with every vintage. This toasty, grilled hazelnut-scented Meursault is spot on, with a hint of struck match and well integrated oak. 2-6 years.

Domaine Philippe Colin, Puligny-Montrachet PC Demoiselles

(696, L&W) This vineyard is situated right next to Le Montrachet and has something of the Grand Crus power and depth. Lovely sweet stone fruit, spicy oak and a long, complex finish. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Chartron Puligny-Montrachet PC, Clos du Cailleret

(500, Bib) Owned entirely by the domaine, this is a little marked by oak at the moment, but very fine underneath, with focused vanilla and citrus fruit flavours and mouth-watering length. 2-6 years.

Domaine Rmi Jobard Meursault PC Genevrires

(420, L&S) This is the best of Jobards 2009 releases, a Meursault that has considerable honeyed richness and weight, but is balanced by acidity and spicy oak. A delicious mouthful. 2-5 years.

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Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet PC Champ Canet

(465, Bib) Named after a family that owned the vineyard in the 19th century, this vineyard often produces wines with concentration and structure. Stylish, sweetly oaked and long. 2-6 years.

Maison Bouchard Pre et Fils Meursault PG Genevrires

(440, Ar) Undoubtedly the bargain wine in the Bouchard white wine line up, this is very floral and faintly exotic, with a honeysuckle perfume and a mealy undertone. Fresh, balanced and refined. 2-7 years

Domaine Michel Bouzerau Meursault PC Perrires

(492, BBR) A full-bodied, powerful Meursault that has more than enough peach, honey and pear fruit to soak up the new oak. Rich, concentrated, textured and long. 2-8 years.

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin Chablis GC Les Clos

(330, Go) Less oaky than they used to be, these wines are now some of the best in Chablis. This is typically bold and powerful, but with minerally acidity and mouth-watering length. 3-8 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet PC Grandes Ruchottes

(450, FW) One of an impressive line-up of wines from Alex Moreau in 2009, this is a very fine Chassagne, made from 80-year-old vines. Complex, intense and sweetly oaked with a fine, minerally finish. 2-8 years

Domaine Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray

(320, Lay) This is only a lieu dit (albeit a wholly owned one), but it punches above its weight. Savoury, wild yeast-derived aromas, a touch of grapeskin, some aniseed and honeyed spice. 2-6 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet PC Les Chenevottes

(365, Mo) Ambitiously oaked, but with enough old vine concentration to cope, this is a wine to cellar. Rich and powerful, with considerable style and underlying complexity. 3-8 years.

Domaine Pierre Morey Meursault Le Tesson

(480, J&B) A lieu dit, as opposed to a Premier Cru, but still a really smart Meursault: focused, yet intense with spice, elegance and freshness and a creamy mid-palate. 2-6 years.

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Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault Le Meix sous le Chteau

(285, Go) For an entry level village wine, this is wonderful value. Its surprisingly fresh for the vintage all citrus fruit ping with notes of fennel and aniseed and a fine, lengthy finish. 3-8 years

Chteau de Fuiss Pouilly-Fuiss Vieilles Vignes

(239, OWL; 265, Lay) The chteau blocked the malolactics on a third of its production in 2009 and it certainly paid off in this wine. Honeyed and complex with lovely length and tangy acidity. Now-5 years.

Domaine Ballot-Millot Meursault PC Charmes

(410, FW) Definitely at the more refined end of the Meursault spectrum, this has a touch of Puligny minerality to it. Its beautifully balanced with citrus and orange peel aromas and understated spice. 3-8 years.

Domaine Hubert Lamy St Aubin PC En Remilly

(270, BBR) Made from unusually low yields (for 2009), this is a delicious St Aubin, showing the freshness and minerality of the village in 2009. Elegant and refined with a hint of fennel. Now-5 years.

Domaine Henri Darnat Puligny-Montrachet

(265, C&B) A bio-dynamic estate that defied conventional wisdom in 2009 and picked late. Not that it shows in this floral, zesty, minerally, old oak-aged Puligny. Now-5 years

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Tim Atkin Top 50 Best Value

White wines.
Domaine Marc Colin St Aubin PC Montceau
(210, Bib) Who says white Burgundy has to be expensive to be any good? This smoky, refined, almost chiselled St Aubin could be a Chassagne Premier Cru. Incredible value for money. Now-6 years.

Domaine Grard Thomas St Aubin PC Les Murgers des Dents de Chien

(185 , Mo) Its difficult to pick a favourite wine from this domaine in 2009, as they are all so good, but this one scores for sheer value. Minerally, matchstick notes, stylish oak and vibrant acidity. 1-5 years.

Domaine Marc Colin St Aubin PC Sentier du Clou

(210, Go) Hard to beat at just over 200, this is St Aubin at its best in 2009, a wine that could easily be mistaken for a Premier Cru Puligny: minerally, complex, aromatic and spicy. Now-6 years

Domaine Laurent Pillot Puligny-Montrachet Noyers Brets

(210, L&S) Beautifully restrained Puligny at a very affordable price, this is smoky and taut with minerally, matchstick notes, a dash of smoky oak and an elegant, subtle finish. 2-6 years.

Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis PC Vaillons

(170, Mo) So open that you could almost drink it now, this Premier Cru is sweet and honeyed, with a Meursault-like texture and refreshing length and minerality. Now-5 years.

Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis PC Fourneaux

(155, Mo) The first vintage from this new domaine is extremely promising. This Premier Cru is complex and stylish with no obvious oak, aromas of fresh flowers and a fresh, balanced finish. Now-4 years.

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Domaine Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet

(240, Ar) Fantastic value Chassagne from a top domaine. Early picking retained acidity, but this is still a softish, sweetly-oaked white, with good acidity and stone and citrus fruit flavours. Now-3 years.

Domaine Franoise et Denis Clair St Aubin PC En Remilly

(199, HH & C) One of a number of impressive wines from this estate, this is riper than some St Aubin whites in 2009, but still has lovely freshness, minerality and a hint of smoky reduction. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Marc Roulot Bourgogne Blanc

(138.50, HH & C; 144, HR) Jean-Marc Roulot's Bourgogne Blanc is one of the bargains of the vintage. This wine is all about finesse, with delicious, smoky minerality, understated oak and a crisp, citrus finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet Bourgogne Blanc, Vieilles Vignes

(145, Go) Jean-Philippe Fichet's wines are some of the most under-rated in Burgundy. This is chalky, elegant and lightly-oaked with hints of honey and fresh flowers and beautiful balance. Now-5 years.

Domaine Larue St Aubin PC Cortons

(159, OWL) More evidence of great value from a St Aubin Premier Cru, showing restrained power, subtle toasty oak, pear and citrus fruit and chalky freshness. 1-5 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Ladoix PC Les Grchons

(190, Mo) A domaine that excelled in 2009. This is a rich wine, but the oak is sensitively done, and theres more than enough acidity to balance the honeyed, almost exotic fruit flavours. Now-3 years.

Domaine Vincent Dampt Chablis PC Cte de Lchet

(170, C&B) This wont age particularly well in my view, such is its abundant honey and stone fruit flavours, but theres more than enough crisp, chalky minerality for balance. 1-5 years.

Domaine Gilbert Picq Chablis PC Vaucoupin

(126, OWL) Good value for a Premier Cru Chablis, with the emphasis on fruit rather than oak. This is zesty and fresh with hints of orange blossom and a creamy, yet minerally mid-palate. Now-5 years.

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Etienne Sauzet Bourgogne Blanc La Tufra

(135, J&B; 150 Go) This may be only the generic white from Grard Boudot, but its as good as many Puligny village wines. Minerals, aniseed, cinnamon spice and good length. Now-5 years.

Les Hritiers du Comte Lafon St Vran

(138, BBR) Dominique Lafons Mcon estate goes from strength to strength. This is ripe, but not over-ripe with well-integrated oak, peachy fruit and real zest and finesse on the palate. Now-3 years.

Domaine Jean-Paul Droin Chablis PC Monte de Tonnerre

(175, Go) Sourced from one of the best PCs in the appellation, this is still closed in on itself, but has a chalky, almost flinty presence on the palate, with notes of grapefruit pith and lemon zest. 2-8 years.

Domaine Philippe Colin Bourgogne Blanc

(108, HR) In with a shout as the best value white wine of the vintage, this generic white is a steal, with its vanilla oak balanced by sweet fruit, texture and a backdrop of zesty acidity. Now-5 years.

Domaine Pascal Prunier-Bonheur Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes

(155, OWL) From a vineyard close to the border with Meursault, this shows the quality of the old vine fruit. Its racy and stylish with lively acidity and a crisp, well-defined finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Blanc

(110, FW) Like Alex Moreaus village level and Premier Cru wines, this is characterised by freshness and poise. Its a very serious white Burgundy at the price, showing taut minerality. Now-5 years.

90

Domaine Stphane Aladame Montagny PC Vieux Chteau

(120, OWL) Aladame is one of the best growers in the Chalonnaise. This comes from an unusually chalky site and has all the racy freshness you'd expect, with stylish oak and subtle, textured flavours. 1-5 years.

90

Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully Mazires Blanc

(129, OWL) Vincent Dureuil makes wines of Cte d'Or quality and this wouldn't look out of place in Meursault: perfumed, concentrated and stylishly oaked with a combination of richness and precision. 2-5 years.

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89

Bret Bothers Mcon-Villages, Cuve Terroirs du Mconnais

(90, BBR) Made mostly from declassified barrels from smarter appellations, this is a very tasty generic white, with impressive zest for a Mcon-Villages in 2009 and refreshing peach and citrus fruit. Now-3 years.

89

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Bourgogne Blanc

(125, Bib) Jean-Marc Boillot made an impressive range of wines in 2009. This doesn't have the concentration of his top cuves but it's fresh and minerally, with great style and palate length. Now-5 years.

89

Domaine Jean-Baptise Ponsot Rully Blanc

(110, FW) An appealingly priced white from one of Rullys most exciting domains. Fresh and harmonious, with subtle oak and vibrant, minerally fruit. Very elegant. Now-3 years.

Red wines.
Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard Beaune PC Clos du Roi
(200, Mo) This is the first release from this vineyard, and what a dbut it is. Stylish, elegant and refined with notes of kirsch and wild strawberry and sweet, textured tannins. 1-5 years.

Domaine Claude Dugat Bourgogne Rouge

(, GWe) The price of this hasnt been released yet, but if its reasonable, fill your cellar with every bottle you can buy. Joyous, sweet, aromatic Pinot with good underlying structure and purity. 2-6 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise Beaune PC Les Tuvilains

(205, Mo) A curiosity at this domaine (its the only red from the Cte de Beaune) but a stand out wine. Quite oaky, but with plenty of sweet black fruits and ripe, structured tannins to compensate. 3-6 years.

Domaine Eric de Suremain Monthlie PC Sur la Velle

(250, J&B) Smart, aromatic, well-balanced Chalonnaise red from a domaine that never lets you down. Sappy and complex with some stalky whole bunch notes and polished, sweet tannins. Now-5 years.

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Domaine Nicolas Rossignol Beaune PC Clos du Roy

(243, L&S) Sappy, leafy and appealingly aromatic, this is a modern style with a some whole bunch character. Textured, refreshing and well balanced, this is a mid-weight wine, not a blockbuster. 2-7 years.

Domaine Robert Chevillon Bourgogne Rouge

(130, J&B) Remarkably good value with berry fruit, complexity and great depth for a generic red. Watch out the rest of the world if Burgundy can make wines like this at these prices. 2-5 years.

Maison Camille Giroud Santenay PC Grand Clos Rousseau

(198, BBR) Densely coloured, vibrant and very youthful, this packs a big punch for a wine under 200. Its on the oaky side, but theres enough fleshy black cherry and strawberry fruit for balance. 3-6 years.

Domaine Jean Guiton Pommard

(228, FW) Made from three combined parcels, this is classic village level Pommard, showing density, structure and no little perfume. Sappy, savoury, appealingly rigorous. 3-8 years.

Domaine Jean Tardy Bourgogne Hautes Ctes de Nuits Rouge

(130, BI) From vineyards situated just above Vosne-Romane (and picked five days later), this is a brilliant entry point red from a domaine on the up. Light, elegant, balanced and fragrant. Now-5 years.

Maison Roche de Bellne PC Beaune Les Cents Vignes

(189, L&W) Impressive value for a Premier Cru, Nicolas Potels wine is full of ripe strawberry fruit, with a hint of tomato leaf, fresh acidity and well-integrated sweet oak. For the medium term. 2-5 years.

Domaine Didier Fornerol Cte de Nuits Villages

(120, HR) The perfume on this wine explodes out of the glass. Juicy, fresh and harmonious with breezy, easy-drinking red fruits and a balanced, mouth-watering finish. Now-5 years.

Domaine Pierre Damoy Bourgogne Pinot Noir

(145, FW) It's hard to believe that this is only a Bourgogne Rouge, because it's as good as many growers' Gevrey-Chambertins. Stylish and quite powerful with texture, length and bags of fruit. Now-5 years.

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Domaine Jean-Nol Gagnard Santenay PC Clos des Tavannes

(195, J&B) From a domaine that makes world famous whites, this is a very tasty red from a cooler site that did well in 2009. Elegant, fresh and spicy, with supple tannins and bright fruit. Now-4 years.

Domaine Stphane Magnien Morey St Denis

(225, BI) Well-priced Morey that has more concentration than many village level examples. Aromatic violets and red fruits on the nose, with a nip of tannin adding backbone to the palate. 2-5 years.

Domaine David Clark Cte de Nuits Villages

(174, BBR) Scottish ex-pat David Clark has made a deliciously fruity, elegant generic red with a touch of whole bunch stemminess, stylish tannins and a lively, refreshing finish. Very gluggable. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bertrand Ambroise, Cte de Nuits Villages

(145, Mo) Like so many 2009 reds from cooler sites, this has an enticing freshness about it. Sweet, forward and juicy with crunchy acidity and spicy red fruits. A wine to share with friends. Now-5 years.

Domaine Hudellot-Nollat Bourgogne Rouge

(96, HR) The gentleness that is apparent in this domaines grander bottling is in evidence here too. This is soft, aromatic and sweet, with tangy acidity and supple fruit flavours. Now-5 years.

Domaine Bachelet Monnot Maranges, La Fussire Premier Cru

(150, J & B) You can taste the old vine fruit in this wine (all 70 years of it). It's quite serious and tannic, but there's enough stuffing, minerality and spice for the wine to develop nicely in bottle. 2-6 years.

90

Domaine Mo-Camuzet Marsannay

(215, Go) At the top end, the wines from Mo can be pricey, so why not buy a case of this entry point red instead? Stylish and aromatic with sweet raspberry fruit and a nip of tannin. Now-5 years.

90

Domaine Franoise et Denis Clair Santenay PC Clos de la Comme

(189, HH&C) Theres a little bit of Santenay rusticity here, but its fleshed out by spicy, aromatic red fruits, a touch of oak and elegant, mid-weight tannins. 1-5 years.

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90 89

Domaine Thierry & Pascale Matrot Meursault Rouge

(205, C&B) Something of a curiosity (theres not a lot of red wine in Meursault), but I love the freshness, lightness and spicy elegance of this medium-weight Pinot. Now-5 years.

Domaine Franoise & Denis Clair Bourgogne Hautes Ctes de Nuits

(88, HH & C) If you want to put a case of quaffing Pinot Noir in your cellar, this is deliciously juicy red Burgundy, with fine tannins, a nip of acidity from the Hautes Ctes and supple red fruits. Now-5 years.

89

Domaine Franois Raquillet Mercurey Vieilles Vignes

(126, L & S) One of a number of enjoyable Chalonnaise reds I've tasted from 2009, this is aromatic and elegant with sappy tannin, red cherry and raspberry fruit and a supple, easy-drinking finish. Now-5 years.

89

Domaine Jean-Marc Millot Cte de Nuits Villages Aux Faulques

(150, Ar) A hint of reduction here, but given the quality of Millot's Grands Crus, I'm confident that it will disappear before bottling. Crunchy, perfumed, minerally Pinot with lots of fruit and charm. Now-3 years.

89

Domaine Pierre Labet Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes

(150, C&B) Very drinkable Pinot produced from 45-year-old vines, with the exuberant fruit character that is so typical of the vintage. Sappy, crunchy acidity underpins the ripeness here. Now-3 years.

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Please consult the codes listed after each producer to find a UK Importer. A key is provided on page 40

Producers I visited in Burgundy.

Clos de Tart (C&B) Domaine Stphane Aladame (OWL) Domaine de lArlot (HR, L&W, C&B, Go) Domaine Bonneau du Martray (C&B) Domaine Louis Carillon (L&W, Mo) Domaine Sylvain Cathiard (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, BBR) Domaine du Comte de Vogu (C&B) Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair (J&B) Domaine Claude Dugat (GtW) Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial (OWL) Domaine Faiveley (HH & C, HR, Ar, BBR) Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet (Go, BBR) Domaine Fourrier (HR, Go, Ar) Domaine Leflaive (Ar, Lay) Domaine Leroy Domaine Lucie et Auguste Lignier (FW) Domaine Frdric Magnien (Lay, Domaine de Montille (L&W, OWL, FW, Ar, BBR) Domaine Laurent Pillot (L&S) Domaine de la Pousse dOr (HR) Domaine Jacques Prieur (Lay) Domaine Rousseau (OWL, HR) Domaine de la Vougeraie (BBR) Domaine Taupenot-Merme (Ar) Maison Bouchard Pre et Fils (BBR, Ar) Maison Joseph Drouhin (BBR) Dujac Fils et Pre and Domaine Dujac (HR, OWL, FW, BBR) Maison Louis Jadot (BBR, BI) Maison Louis Latour (BI) Olivier Bernstein (BBR) Vincent Girardin (Bib)

& tasted in London.

Benjamin Leroux (BBR) Bret Brothers (BBR) Chteau de Fuiss (OWL) Chteau de La Tour, Clos de Vougeot (C&B) Chteau Long Depaquit (UGCC) Chteau de Puligny-Montrachet (OWL, BBR) Domaine Stphane Aladame (OWL) Domaine Bertrand Ambroise (Mo) Domaine Romain Arlaud (L&W, OWL, FW) Domaine de lArlot (HR, L&W, C&B, Go) Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux (HR, L&W, Ar) Domaine Bachelet-Monnot (J&B) Domaine Jean-Claude Bachelet (BBR) Domaine Ballot-Millot (L&W, FW) Domaine Daniel Barrauld (L&S) Domaine Ghislaine Barthod (J&B, HR, L&W, Go, BBR, Bib) Domaine de Bellene (BBR) Domaine Samuel Billaud (Mo) Domaine Billaud-Simon (Go, Mo) Domaine Simon Bize (OWL, Go, Ar) Domaine Marc-Antonin Blain (HH & C) Domaine Blain-Gagnard (HH & C, Ar) Domaine Bohrmann (Bib) Domaine Henri Boillot (L&S) Domaine Louis Boillot (L&W, Go, BBR) Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot (L&W, Go, Ar, L&S, Bib)

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Domaine Adhmar Boudin (L&S) Domaine Jean-Marc Bouley (OWL) Domaine Michel Bouzereau (L&W, BBR) Domaine Chandon de Briailles (HH & C, L&W, Go, L&S) Domaine Michel Briday (HR) Domaine Buisson-Charles (FW) Domaine Louis Carillon (L&W, Mo) Domaine Sylvain Cathiard (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, BBR) Domaine Jean-Pierre Chartron (Go) Domaine Jean Chartron (Bib) Domaine Alain Chavy (HR) Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy (OWL) Domaine Philippe Chavy (L&W) Domaine Robert Chevillon (J&B) Domaine Bruno Clair (J&B) Domaine Franoise et Denis Clair (HH & C) Domaine David Clark (BBR) Domaine Bruno Clavelier (HR, OWL) Domaine des Clos (Ar) Domaine Clos des Rocs (FW) Domaine Bernard Coillot (FW) Domaine Bruno Colin (Go) Domaine Marc Colin (Go, Bib) Domaine Philippe Colin (HR, L&W) Domaine Colin-Deleger (Go) Domaine Jean Collet (UGCC) Damine du Comte Armand (BBR, L&W, HR, L&W, Go, L&S) Domaine des Comtes Lafon (BBR) Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot (OWL, FW, L&S) Domaine de Courcel (HR, FW, L&S) Domaine de la Croix Senaillet (OWL) Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau C&B) Domaine Pierre Damoy (FW) Domaine Daniel Dampt (HH & C) Domaine Vincent Dampt (C&B) Domaine Vincent Dancer (J&B) Domaine Henri Darnat (C&B) Domaine Didier Darviot-Perrin (HR, L&W, Ar) Domaine Jean Defaix (Bib) Domaine Christophe Denizot (HR) Domaine Jean-Paul Droin (Go) Domaine Drouhin-Laroze (J&B, HH & C, Go, Bib) Domaine Dublre (HR) Domaine Dujac (HR, OWL, FW, BBR) Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot (Bib) Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial (OWL) Domaine Duroch (FW) Domaine Arnaud Ente (BBR)

Domaine Frdric Esmonin (HR) Domaine Faiveley (HH & C, HR, Ar, BBR) Domaine Nathalie & Gilles Fvre (UGCC) Domaine William Fvre (HR, Ar, UGCC) Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet (Go, BBR) Domaine Follin-Arbelet (J&B, L&W) Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard (HR, L&W, OWL, Ar, Bib) Domaine Didier Fornerol (HR) Domaine Fourrier (HR, Go, Ar) Domaine Jean-Nol Gagnard (J&B, BBR) Domaine Dominique Gallois (Go) Domaine Geantet-Pansiot (HR, OWL, Go) Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy (BI) Domaine Henri Germain (L&S) Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard (Mo) Domaine Henri Gouges (J&B, HR, OWL, FW, Mo, Bib) Domaine Jean Grivot (J&B, HR, L&W, Go, BBR, Bib) Domaine Anne Gros (L&S) Domaine Michel Gros (L&W) Domaine Franck Grux (HH & C) Domaine Jean Guiton (FW) Domaine Hudelot-Nollat (HR, FW, Go, Bib) Domaine Paul Jacqueson (L&S, L&S) Domaine Jaeger-Defaix (FW) Domaine Patrick Javillier (J&B, L&W, OWL, C&B, Go, BBR) Domaine Antoine Jobard (BBR) Domaine Franois Jobard (Go) Domaine Rmi Jobard (L&S) Domaine Gilles Jourdan (C&B) Domaine Pierre Labet (C&B) Domaine Laborier-Chataignier (FW) Domaine Dominique Lafon (BBR) Domaine Franois Lamarche (J&B, L&W, BBR) Domaine des Lambrays (HH & C, HR, L&W, OWL, FW, Go, L&S, BBR) Domaine Hubert Lamy (L&W, OWL, FW, L&S, BBR) Domaine Laroche (UGCC) Domaine Larue (OWL) Domaine Latour-Giraud (Bib) Domaine Lebreuil (FW) Domaine Hubert Lignier (BI) Domaine Lucie & Auguste Lignier (FW) Domaine Maroslavac-Leger (Go) Domaine Franois Lumpp (L&S) Domaine Frdric Magnien (Lay) Domaine Stphane Magnien (BI)

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Domaine Marquis dAngerville (C&B, Ar, Mo) Domaine Martelot de Cherisey (J&B) Domaine Matrot (C&B, Bib) Domaine Mo-Camuzet (J&B, L&W, Go) Domaine Jean-Marc Millot (Ar) Domaine Christian Moreau (HH & C) Domaine Louis Moreau (UGCC) Domaine Moreau-Naudet (OWL, J&B) Domaine Morey Coffinet Domaine Louis Michel (OWL) Domaine de Montille (L&W, OWL, FW, Ar, BBR) Domaine Bernard Moreau (OWL, FW) Domaine Pierre Morey (J&B) Domaine Marc Morey (Ar) Domaine Thierry Mortet (L&S) Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg (HH & C, HR, L&W, OWL, L&S) Domaine Jacques-Frdric Mugnier (J&B, HH & C, OWL) Domaine Michel Niellon (OWL) Domaine Sylvain Pataille (OWL) Domaine Paul Pernot (HR) Domaine Pernot-Belicard (FW) Domaine Perrot-Minot (L&S) Domaine Gilbert Picq (OWL) Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot (L&W, FW, Mo) Domaine Laurent Pillot (L&S) Domaine Paul Pillot (FW, Go) Domaine Patrick Piuze (Westbury Communications) Domaine Denis Pommier (Go) Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot (FW) Domaine de la Pousse dOr (HR) Domaine Henri Prudhon (Go) Domaine Pascal Prunier-Bonheur (OWL) Domaine Franois Raquillet (L&S) Domaine Louis Rmy (J&B) Domaine Daniel Rion (Mo) Domaine Michle et Patrice Rion (BBR) Domaine Robert-Denogent (Bib) Domaine Rmi Rollin (J&B) Domaine Nicolas Rossignol (L&S) Domaine Rossignol-Trapet (OWL, Mo, BBR) Domaine Roulot (HH & C, HR, Ar) Domaine Laurent Roumier (BI)

Domaine Armand Rousseau (HR) Domaine Roux (Bib) Domaine Marc Roy (OWL) Domaine Etienne Sauzet (J&B, L&W, OWL, Go, Ar) Domaine Serafin (Go) Domaine Servin (UGCC) Domaine Anne & Herv Sigaut (Ar) Domaine Simonnet-Febvre (UGCC) Domaine Eric de Suremain (J&B) Domaine Jean Tardy (BI) Domaine Taupenot-Merme (Ar) Domaine Grard Thomas (Mo) Domaine Tollot-Beaut (OWL, Go, Bib) Domaine Trapet (C&B) Domaine Cecile Tremblay (J&B) Domaine Laurent Tribut (J&B) Domaine Tupinier-Bautista (OWL) Domaine de Varoilles (C&B) Domaine A & P de Villaine (C&B) Domaine Joseph Voillot (Go) Domaine de la Vougeraie (BBR) Dominique Lafon (BBR) Dujac Fils et Pre (HR, OWL, FW, BBR) Humbert Frres (L&W) Jean-Yves Devevey (BBR) La Chablisienne (UGCC) Les Hritiers du Comte Lafon (BBR) Maison Bouchard Pre et Fils (Ar, BBR) Maison Camille Giroud (HR, BBR) Maison Champy (HH & C) Maison Joseph Drouhin (BBR) Maison Alex Gambal (OWL) Maison Louis Jadot (BBR, BI) Maison Louis Latour (BI) Maison Roche de Bellene (L&W, Go, Ar, BBR, Bib) M&M (Ar) Olivier Leflaive Frres (HH & C) Olivier Merlin (BBR) Patrick Piuze (Bib) Sylvain Loichet (BBR) Thibault Liger-Belair (OWL, L&S, BBR) Vincent Girardin (Bib)

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UK Importers
Ar BI Bib BBR C&B FW Go GtW HH & C HR J&B Lay L&S L&W Mo UGCC Armit Bordeaux Index Bibendum Berry Brothers & Rudd Corney & Barrow Flint Wines Goedhuis Great Western Wines Haynes, Hanson & Clark Howard Ripley Justerini & Brooks Laytons Lea & Sandeman Lay & Wheeler Montrachet Union des Grand Crus de Chablis www.armit.co.uk www.bordeauxindex.com www.bibendum-wine.co.uk www.bbr.com/burgundy www.corneyandbarrrow.com www.flintwines.com www.goedhuis.com www.greatwesternwine.co.uk www.hhandc.co.uk www.howardripley.com www.justerinis.com www.jeroboams.co.uk www.leaandsandeman.co.uk www.laywheeler.com www.montrachetwine.com www.grandscrusdechablis.com

Recommended Restaurants
Auprs du Clocher, Pommard (03 80 22 21 79) Caveau des Arches, Beaune (03 80 22 10 37) La Part des Anges, Beaune (03 80 22 07 68) Le Bistro Bourguignon, Beaune(03 80 22 23 24) Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet (03 80 21 30 06) Loiseau des Vignes, Beaune (03 80 24 22 20) Ma Cuisine, Beaune (03 80 22 30 22) Restaurant Chez Guy, Gevrey-Chambertin (03 80 58 51 51) Restaurant Le Beneton, Beaune (03 80 22 00 26) Restaurant Le Chassagne, Chassagne-Montrachet (03 80 21 94 94)

Further Reading
Jasper Morris MW. Inside Burgundy. (50, BB&R Press) Remington Norman MW. Grand Cru (40, Kyle Cathie) Remimgton Norman MW and Charles Taylor MW. The Great Domaines of Burgundy third edition (40, Kyle Cathie) www.burghound.com I would also recommend many of the 2009 offers published by (and available free from) the merchants listed earlier. Many of them are available online as well as in printed form.

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Printed and bound colour copies of this report are available at 15 plus VAT and P&P from tjatkin@aol.com

All written content & photos 2011 Tim Atkin. Sub-editing by Sue Wixley. Layout by Jonathan McKay. Tim Atkin MW would like to acknowledge the help and support of the BIVB and Westbury Communications in organising and funding two indispensable fact finding trips to Burgundy in 2010.