TRIMS TESTING Fusible Interlinings Zippers Elastic Waist band Sewing threads Buttons Snap Fasteners 13.1.

Testing of Fusible Interlining The purpose of fusible interlinings is to give shape or form and improve the aesthetics of a garment. There is no better way to test fusible interlining other than to actually fuse the interlining with the end-item fabric and evaluate such samples before starting mass production. Therefore, at least three 30 X 30 cm (12 X 12 in.) pieces of end-item fabric cut and fused to the 23 X 23 cm (9 X 9 in.) pieces of fusible interlining at the recommended time, temperature, and pressure. Then these specimens are checked for compatibility, shrinkage and bond strength. Compatibility means that the fusible interlining material should provide good drapability, bulk, and support without altering the natural hand of the end item (shell) fabric. Shrinkage can be measured by placing gauge marks on the interlinings and shell fabrics before fusing and measuring the distance between these gauge marks after fusing. Any significant shrinkage in the fusible interlining fabric would result in a noticeable bubbled appearance on the right side of the shell/interlining assembly. Bond strength can be determined by using the standard method of testing bonded and laminated apparel fabrics. 13.2. Testing of Zippers Zippers can be tested using any one or more of the following ASTM test methods - Durability of finish of zippers to laundering - Colorfastness of zippers to dry cleaning - Colorfastness of zippers to light - Colorfastness of zippers to crocking - Colorfastness of zippers to laundering - Durability of finish of zippers to dry cleaning - Resistance of zippers to salt spray (fog)

- Measuring zipper dimensions - Strength tests of zippers - Operability of zipper

The durability of the finish of the zippers to laundering is evaluated by laundering the test specimen in a Launderometer. The effect of the test on zipper coating is evaluated by noting the loss of coating on the zipper chain or components or both The color fastness of zippers to dry cleaning is tested by subjecting the zipper tape to commercial dry- cleaning with multi-fibre fabric. The dry cleaned specimen is compared with the original specimen and any change in the color of the specimen or staining of the multifibre fabric is then assessed using AATCC grey scale for color change or the chromatic transference scale. The color fastness of the zippers to laundering is tested by subjecting the zipper with a multi-fibre test fabric to home laundering according to the intended care instructions of the garments on which this particular zipper would be used. The alteration in shade of the zipper tape and degree of staining of multi-fibre test fabric is evaluated by the AATCC gray scale for staining and color change or the chromatic transference scale. The durability of the finish in the zippers to dry cleaning is tested by subjecting the zipper to the dry cleaning, as in AATCC test method 86, but the zipper is air-dried rather than hot pressed. The specimen is then evaluated visually for any exposed base metal compared to a new zipper or compared to a sample illustrating an acceptable degree of coating loss. Sometimes due to corrosion, a zipper will not operate smoothly and its crosswise strength may be reduced. Such deterioration in a zipper can be evaluated by subjecting the zipper to a slat spray test. Of course, plastic/nylon zippers do not corrode, and therefore this test applies only to metal zippers. In this test method, specimens are subjected to slat spray [5% salt solution at 330 to 360 C for 24 hours continuously] as directed by ASTM method D 2059, slat spray testing. The exposed specimens are then visually evaluated for any sign of corrosion and tested for ease of operation and crosswise strength, and results are compared with the ease of operation and crosswise strength of the original specimens. Zippers dimensions should be measured in certain ways so that they can be communicated effectively. 13.2.1. Zipper Strength Tests The usefulness of a zipper in service can be evaluated by the following strength tests. No one test determines the suitability of a zipper for a specific end use. Since the tests are interrelated, more than one may be needed for a complete evaluation. Zipper strength is usually tested in the following areas.

1. Crosswise Strength The ability of a zipper chain to withstand lateral stress is measured by loading to destruction a 1 in. section of the specimen in the tensile testing mach

2. Scoop pull-off The gripping strength of a scoop around the bead is determined by pulling a single scoop from the bead at right angles to the stringer using a tensile testing machine with a specially designed fixture. 3. Holding strength of stops The ability of stops to perform their intended purpose is determined through the use of five different methods that simulate the important stresses encountered in the end use of zippers. 4. Scoop slippage The ability of a scoop to resist longitudinal movement along the bead of the tape is determined with a tensile testing machine fitted with a specially designed fixture 5. Resistance to cushioned compression of sliders The lower plateau of compression tester is cushioned with a neoprene pad. The specimen is laid on the pad and a load is applied. Then, the operability of zipper is tested and compared to the operability of the original zipper. 6. Slider deflection & recovery There are two procedures for determining the resistance of slider planes of zippers to an opening or spreading force. In one procedure, the force is applied to the mouth of the slider. In the other, an alternative method, the force is applied through the slider pull and back plane of the slider. 7. Resistance to twist of pull and slider In this method, the twist resistance of a pull and slider assembly against a torsional force applied to the pull of the zipper is evaluated. A fixture is used with a torque wrench to apply a specified twisting force to a slider pull. The amount of permanent twist imparted to the slider pull or other permanent damage or deformation are noted. The specimen is also examined for any other effects such as breaking of deformation of the lug or any other part of the assembly. 8. Resistance to pull-off slider pull In this test, with a special fixture, tensile load is applied to the slider pull to determine how much force is required to pull off the slider pull.

The operability of zippers are tested by pulling the slider with a force indicator (such as pull gauge) along the zipper chain alternately in the opening and closing directions and the force

required to maintain each movement is recorded. The force required to move the slider on the chain is a measure of the ease with which the zipper will operate in end use applications. 13.3. Elastic Waistband Testing There are two properties of an elastic waistband that need testing; i. Fit for labeled size ii. Resistance to degradation (becoming loose, losing elasticity) due to laundering. 68

13.3.1. Fit for the labeled Size This property can be tested by stretching the waistband about 5 cm more than the hip dimension for the labeled size (to stimulate the condition that exists when putting on the garment) and bringing back the waistband to the waist dimension for the labeled size and measuring the force it takes to keep the waistband stretched at that particular dimension. Then the similar garments must be wear tested and the numerical value of the force required must be correlated with the actual comfort during wear. This testing can be done on a tensile testing machine. 13.3.2. Resistance to Degradation, Accelerated Aging Method 1. Take three specimens of the elastic that would be used for a waistband. Mark them in such a way that the distance between the marks is 25 cm (10 in.). Then subject them to accelerated aging [expose them to 1490C for 2 hour in a circulated air oven]. After aging, let the specimens cool down to room temperature. 2. Then, stretch the specimen 50% and keep them in that stretched condition for 24 hours. Allow them to relax for 10 min. Then, measure the distance between the gauge marks and express that as a percentage of the original distance between the gauge marks 25 cm (10 in.). Use a sign to indicate shrinkage and a + sign to indicate growth in the distance between the gauge marks. The final results are expressed as the average of the three specimens. 3. Usually any growth over 7% or 8% is not acceptable. Any shrinkage is unacceptable because it will result in tight fit.

13.4. Sewing Thread Testing There is an ASTM test method for sewing threads. This test method outlines the procedure for testing the following properties of sewing threads. - Diameter - Length per thread holder - Strength and elongation - Shrinkage, single end - Twist and twist balance - Yarn number. Diameter Knowledge of thread diameter is important because diameter can affect sewing performance and seam appearance. Sewing performance can be influenced because thread is

required to pass through restrictions, such as needles eye and tension disks. Seam appearance can be adversely affected when the diameter of a thread is large enough to displace fabric yarn and results in a puckered seam. Sewing thread diameter is also a consideration when selecting sewing threads for embroidery, contrast stitching, or other decorative applications. The diameter of the thread is determined either with the thickness gauge or optically. The procedure for measuring sewing thread diameter by thickness gauge is as follows: 69

Draw the thread from the side of the sewing thread holder, taking care not to disturb the twists. Place four strands of the thread side by side on the anvil and approximately midway between the sides of the pressure foot of the thickness gauge. Measure the thickness to the nearest 0.0025 cm under 240gm/cm2 (0.001 in. under 3.4.psi) pressure at 10 points along the thread and calculate the average as diameter of the sewing thread. The optical method for measuring sewing thread diameter is not recommended because it has difficulty determining the exact boundaries of threads having hairy fibres on the surface. Length per thread holder The length of the sewing thread on a thread holder is measured in meters or yards while being removed from the thread holder. Strength and Elongation Strength and elongation of sewing threads are determined by the same way as the strength and elongation of yarn, by a single strand method (ASTM D-2256). The loop length and elongation of a sewing thread are a measure of the threads ability to contribute to seam performance. The loop strength of a thread bears a direct relationship to stitch strength and hence to seam strength. Loop elongation is an indication of the degree to which seam, under stress, can be stretched without a thread breaking. Besides loop elongation, the ultimate elongation of a seam is dependent on the material stitched, the stitch and seam type and number of stitches per inch. In a loop strength and elongation test, each specimen consists of two pieces of yarn taken from one package or end. Both the ends of one piece are secured in one clamp of the testing machine so that the length of the loop is about one-half the gauge length. One end of the second loop is passed through the loop formed by the first piece of the sewing thread, and both ends of the second piece are clamped in the other clamp of the testing machine, the machine is started, and the load and elongation, when the loop breaks, are observed and noted. Shrinkage, Single End Shrinkage of sewing thread is important because shrinkage can cause puckering of a seam, thus adversely affecting seam appearance. A conditioned single end of thread is measured under a prescribed tensioning force before and after exposure to boiling water for hour or dry heat 1520 + 30 C for 1 hour. The change in the length is expressed as a percentage of the length before exposure. Twist and twist balance For determining twist level in the sewing thread, the ASTM test methods cited in [88-89] can be used. The determination of twist balance is important in predicting the snarling tendency of the thread during actual sewing operations. In this method, about a meter (yard) of conditioned thread from a holder is withdrawn in the same

manner as that in which it is delivered to the sewing machine and formed into a loop, positioning the ends of the threads so that they are 10 cm (4 70

in.) apart at the top of the loop. The twist balance is reported in terms of the complete rotations that the loop makes. Yarn Number The yarn number of the sewing threads can be determined by the ASTM test methods 13.5. Buttons Testing Durability of the buttons can be tested by an impact test. Individual buttons are placed on a surface centered under a tube through which a preselected mans falls from a preselected height. After the mans impact the button, the button is removed from a testing device and visually examined using 5x Magnifying glass for breakage, cracking, or chipping. The practice is used for acceptance testing of buttons. The buttons are classified as class A, B1 through B3 depending upon the impact resistance, the class A button being the most durable.