Idrija

Kolpa River

Solavsko Region

Soa Valley
Soa Valley

EDEN Slovenia
2012/13

Kolpa River Solavsko Region Idrija

European Destinations of Excellence

Discover the hidden treasures of Slovenia!

Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of EDEN Slovenia

Contents

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy
Online

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving & Getting Around 6
Planes, trains and driving in Slovenia

The Basics 7
Statistics, prices, politics and more

Language 9
Essential Slovene for visitors

Idrija
The town of mercury and lace

10

Kolpa River 20

Mobile

A pristine waterway in a relaxing land

Solavsko Region

30
Youll feel like youre on top of the world, while taking in the views of the Kamnik-Savinja Alps and the valleys below from the Panoramic Road in the Solavsko region, photo by YMB

Breathtaking peaks and picture-perfect valleys

Print

Soa Valley
Amazing sights along the Emerald Trail

40 50

Map Special Features

Idrija Lace likrofi The Vinika Republic Kostelska Rakija The Legend of Peter Klepec Potoka Zijalka Cave

17 18 22 27 28 34 39 41 41 2012/13

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The crystal clear waters and amazing scenery of the Soa river make for some of the best kayaking, canoeing, rafting and other water sport activities in Slovenia, photo by FA Bobo, Archive LTO Bovec

Handicrafts of Solavsko Triglav National Park The Walk of Peace

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Foreword
Its no coincidence that the acronym EDEN was chosen for the European Destinations of Excellence project (even if it had to be finagled a little with the n in Excellence used for the last letter), as the four Slovenian members of the group all boast paradise-like qualities - unspoilt nature, abundant wildlife, pristine rivers and a certain remoteness from the outside world. The first to gain admission to the prestigious club was the majestic Soa Valley in 2008, which is centred around the turquoise waters of the Soa river as its path cuts through the rocky mountains in the far northeast of Slovenia, comprising a section of the so-called Emerald Trail. On the opposite side of the country in the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, the Solavsko region next got the nod in 2009. Famed for its photogenic valleys and breathtaking views, the region is perhaps more deserving of the label sublime than anywhere else in the country. In 2010, the meandering Kolpa River often referred to as Slovenias longest coast - was awarded with the distinction of excellence, not only for the attractions of the river itself, but also for the beauty and cultural heritage of the land through which it flows. And last but not least, the town of Idrija became the latest Slovenian EDEN member in 2011. Most known (somewhat incongruously) for its mercury mine and traditional lacemaking, the town has actually developed a well-rounded tourism offer and is arguably the most accessible of the four destinations. To finish on a personal note, we had an absolute pleasure travelling extensively in all the regions prior to and while researching this guide, and hope that the genuine fondness and heartfelt enthusiasm we have for each of them is readily apparent in the pages below.

foreword
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Cover story
When selecting photos for the cover of this guide, we were faced with some difficult choices. One photo would not do, because the regions are too diverse to be represented with a single image. And even choosing single images to represent individual destinations proved to be a daunting task. These are the ones we finally settled on (clockwise from top left): one of many mills and other ethnological sights along the calm waters of the Kolpa river; the famous Kozjak Waterfall near Kobarid in the Soa Valley; one of the Klave dams, the so-called 'pyramids of Idrija'; and Logarska Dolina, the most recognisable of the Solavsko region's three valleys and one of Slovenia's most breathtaking natural attractions.

It was 20 years ago this summer that the first In Your Pocket hit the streets of Vilnius, Lithuania. Since then, we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Ghent, Belgium, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. Always an innovative publisher, we have just launched a new version of our iPhone app, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for IYP Guides by name. To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

The European Destinations of ExcelleNce (EDEN) project, was started by the European Commission in accordance with European tourism policy guidelines. The aim of the project is to promote sustainable tourism development models across the European Union; that is to draw attention to the value, diversity and shared characteristics of European tourist destinations and to promote destinations where economic growth is pursued in such a way as to ensure social, cultural and environmental sustainability. The project is based on national competitions that take place every year and result in the selection of a tourist destination of excellence for each participating country. This European quest for excellence in tourism is developed around an annual theme, chosen by the Commission together with the relevant national tourism bodies. This theme functions as a leitmotif: so far, rural tourism, intangible heritage, protected

areas, aquatic tourism and regeneration of physical sites have been the main EDEN themes. Slovenia decided to participate in the EDEN project in order to identify and reward the most sustainable and green destinations that follow the principles of environmental, socially responsible and cultural sustainability, thus stimulating their further development. Visit our EDEN destinations and discover the hidden treasures of Slovenia! More information: www.slovenia.info/eden Europe: www.edenineurope.eu.

This p u blicatio n is f ina n ce d under the Competitiveness and Innovation Framework Programme (CIP)

Press Box
Detailed, carefully researched guides. Daily Mail Solid, reliable information on everything from where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city. The Guardian In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks. The New York Times Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both wellknown and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated. The Independent The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from worldweary professional travel writers. The Irish Times With so many European cities now within easy range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. The guides are free to download and print off as pdfs and have information on where to eat and stay and what to see on European city breaks. The Times In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English language writer who lives locally. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

EDEN In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 slovenia@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Eurograf Published August 2012 30,000 copies Maps Slovenian Tourist Board, www.slovenia.info

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn Project Manager Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait Cover photos (clockwise from top left) Dunja Wedam, Matev Lenari, Samo Trebian, Tomo Jeseninik Photos Slovenian Tourist Board, Tourist Information Centres in Idrija, rnomelj, Solava and Bovec, Branka Jovanovi, Yuri Barron Special thanks to Jana Kokelj, Erika Hvala, Mojca Oep, Marko Slapnik, Gregor Jevek, Lidija Ivanek, Peter rni, Janez Weiss, Tina Gerkman and the Slovenian Tourist Board

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Arriving & Getting around

Arriving in Slovenia
Located at one of the true geographical crossroads in Europe, Slovenia is easily reached by both road and rail from more or less all directions, especially if crossing one of the now invisible internal EU borders of the neighbouring Schengen countries (of which Croatia is not yet a member though). International bus transport is nowhere near as frequent as trains, but there are usually at least weekly direct connections to many major cities in Central Europe, the Balkans and Scandinavia. Of course this being the 21st century, most visitors opt to fly, and Ljubljanas Brnik airport has direct flights to up to two dozen cities in Europe depending on the season, with long-haul flights most often connecting in Germany and Austria. In recent years budget flights have become ever more common, and while Ljubljana only has a couple of budget options, the airports in Trieste, Venice and to a lesser extent Klagenfurt are well-served by budget operators and often represent the cheapest method of getting to Slovenia even after factoring in transfer costs.

Basics
Climate
30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D

Rules of the Road

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/or driving license points incurred whilst in Slovenia will theoretically follow you home. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

Temperature, C

Rainfall, mm
150 120 90 60 30

Buses
Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajalie) D/E-1, Trg
Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. (+386) 12 34 46 00, fax (+386) 12 34 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana. si, www.ap-ljubljana.si.

such either directly in their descriptions or with the relevant symbol from the symbol key. Further information is available from the National Council of Disabled Peoples Organisation of Slovenia (or NSIOS by its Slovene acronym), by phone at +386 (0)4 30 36 46 or on the web at www.nsios.si.

Getting to EDEN
Slovenias EDEN destinations are not the easiest places to reach once youve arrived in the country, but this is of course relative in a country of Slovenias size. Aside from Idrija and the upper part of the Kolpa river, which are both around an hour or so drive from Ljubljana, you can expect to spend between an hour and a half and two hours in a car, and considerably longer on a bus, while train routes manage to skirt the regions almost entirely other than long journeys to Most na Soi in the south of the Soa Valley and rnomelj/Metlika along the lower Kolpa river. However, as the Soa Val ley, Solavsko region and Kolpa river are all found on Slovenias borders, they may be more easily reached if visitors arrive directly from Italy, Austria or Croatia respectively. This also means that booking flights to an airport in a neighbouring country may not only be the cheapest option, but also the most convenient. In any event, the extra effort it takes to get to the EDEN destinations will be well worth it once youre there. More specific transport information is included in each of the destination chapters.

Car Rental
avis.si, w w w.avis.si. Wi th offices all over Slovenia (including Brnik Airport, Ljubljana, Maribor and Koper) the friendly folks at Avis can help you find the most convenient car rental solution for your holiday, business trip or weekend away. Its always a good idea to enquire about special weekend rates, as they can be extremely easy on the wallet. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (0)4 23 65 000, open 08:0022:00. Hertz D-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47, ljubljana@her tz.si, w w w.hertz.si. One of the most known and trusted names in car rentals has a total of eight locations across Slovenia, including an office in the centre of Ljubljana within easy walking distance of most hotels, as well as at the airports in Ljubljana and Portoro. They also conveniently offer free delivery and collection service within 20km of any office during working hours. Their large fleet of new cars has everything from the incredibly fuel-efficient Volkswagen Up! to larger vans and luxury models - there are even some with automatic transmissions for Americans. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Budget Grand Hotel Union, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 421 7340, budget.car@siol.net. Dollar & Thrifty Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 236 5750, subrosa@siol.net. Europcar Aerodrom Brnik, Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 23 67 990/+386 (0)31 382 051, reservations@europcar.si, europcar.si. Sixt Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 50/+386 (0)51 601 804, ljubljana.dt@ sixt-slovenia.si, www.sixt.si.

Drinking
Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Avis D-2, ufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1 430 80 10, lji@

Money
Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Joe Plenik design.

Set along the banks of the Rina river, the Church of St Jernej dominates the city centrein Koevje, photo by YMB

Disabled travellers
Slovenia is increasingly well-adapted for the disabled. Venues that are disabled accessible have been noted as

Exchange rates
1 EUR = 1.25 US$ = 0.80 UK = 1.20 CHF =7.95 CNY = 100= 40 (26 July 2012)

Basic data
Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km

Market values
Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices: Product Price McDonalds Big Mac 2.40 Slice of pizza 1.80 Slice of burek 2.00 Cup of coffee 1.10 Bottle of name brand vodka 12.50 Decent bottle of local wine 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop 1.10 Pint of beer in a pub 2.70 Pack of cigarettes 2.90 Movie ticket 4.90 Postcard 0.30 Litre of petrol 1.49 Speeding ticket up to 2000

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive

Vinjeta w w w.dar s.
si. Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks.

Airport
Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.ljuairport.si. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are 95/30/15 for cars and yearly/halfyearly/weekly ones are 47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if youve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

Ljubljana Airport (Letalie Joeta Punika)

Trains
Slovenian Railways (Slovenske eleznice) Kolodvorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, potnik. info@slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si.

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Basics
National Holidays
1 & 2 January New Year 8 February Slovenian Day of Culture March- April Easter 7th Sunday after Easter Pentecost 27 April Uprising Day 1 & 2 May Labour Day 25 June National Day 15 August Assumption 31 October Reformation Day 1 November All Souls Day 25 December Christmas 26 December Independence Day

Language
Symbol key
P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking J City centre location K Restaurant C Swimming pool E Live music W Wi-Fi connection T Child friendly H Conference facilities R Internet G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna S Takeaway B Outdoor Seating Slovene is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and also shares many words with other Slavic languages. Although some words and letter combinations may appear unpronounceable at first glance, Slovene is actually a fairly phonetic language with very few irregularities - although the letters L and V can do some strange things depending on their position in a word. Luckily, most Slovenes speak either English, Italian or German embarrassingly well, so chances are you wont have to worry about any communication problems. However, as with most countries, attempting to use a little bit of the local language can go a long way towards winning over your hosts. Even the odd hvala and prosim wont go unnoticed. Pronunciation c - as in pizza e - as in egg g - as in go j - like y in yogurt

Learn Slovene

U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Learn commonly-used Slovene words and phrases on our website - and from a British guy no less! Entrance - vhod (oo-hod) Exit - izhod (eez-hod) Push rini (ree-nee) Pull vleci (oo-LETS-ee) Travelling Bus - avtobus (OW-toh-booze) Train - vlak (v-LOCK) I am looking for.... - Iem (EESH-chem) ... One ticket, please - Eno vstopnico, prosim (Eh-noh oo-stopNEETZ-oh pro- SEEM) Times Now - zdaj (z-dai) Later - kasneje (kaz-NAY-yeh) Today - danes (dahn-es) Tomorrow - jutri (yoo-tree) Yesterday - veraj (oo-cheh-ray) In the morning - zjutraj (z-YOO-try) In the afternoon - popoldne (poh-POLD-neh) In the evening - zveer (z-veh-chehr) At night - ponoi (poh-NOH-chee) Bar Talk One coffee, please - Eno kavo prosim (EH-noh KAH-voh pro-SEEM) One beer, please - (Name of beer), prosim (pro-SEEM) Cheers! - Na zdravje (Nah zuh-DRAW-wee-ay)! Whats going on? - Kaj dogaja? (kai DO-ga-ya) Lets party! - urajmo! (zhur-AI-mo) You have beautiful eyes - Imate lepe oi (EE-mah-tay lehpeh oh-chee) Youre hot - Si lepa (see LAY-pa) Where are you from? - Iz kje si? (iz kye see) Can I have your number?- Lahko dobim tvojo telefonsko tevilko? (Law-koh doh-BEEM t-voy-yo teh-leh-FOHN-sko shteh-VEEL-koh)? See-you, bye! - Ajde, ao (ai-dai, chow)

Politics
The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTrk, was elected in 2007, and will likely run for re-election at the end of 2012. Early parliamentary elections in December 2011 brought the rather divisive former prime minister Janez Jana and his conservative party back to power.

Smoking
Cigarettes cant be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

- like c in cello - like sh in ship - like s in pleasure

Tipping
In Slovenia tipping is the exception rather than the rule, although rounding up taxi fares and caf bills is becoming more common, while leaving 10% or more in restaurants with good service always appreciated.

Religion
Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, a recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest of them believing in something.

Visas
Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.

Basics Do you speak English? - Govorite angleko (Goh-voh- REE-tay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I dont understand - Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranie (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning - Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day - Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night - Lahko no (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes - Ja (Yah) No - Ne (Nay) Hello - ivjo (Jeeve-yoh) Thank you - Hvala (HVAL-a) Please - Prosim (PRO-seem) Excuse me/Sorry Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... - Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Monday - ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek) Tuesday - torek (TOR-ek) Wednesday - sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday - etrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday - petek (peh-tuck) Saturday - sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Sunday - nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Who? - Kdo?(K-doh) What? - Kaj?(Kai) Where? - Kje ? (Key-yay) When? - Kdaj (K-dai) How much does it cost? - Koliko stane (KOH-lee-koh STAH-neh)? Places Croatia - Hrvaka (Hurr-VASH-ka) England - Anglija (Ahn-glee-yah) Germany - Nemija (Nem-CHEE-yah) Hungary - Madarska (Mad-jar-skah) Ireland - Irska (Ear-skah) Netherlands - Nizozemska (NEE-zo-zem-skah) Scotland - kotska (Shkot-skah) Venice - Benetke (Behn-et-keh) Vienna - Dunaj (Doo-nigh) Signs Open - odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh)

Tax free shopping

If youre a resident of a non-EU member state, youre eligible to take advantage of tax free shopping while visiting Slovenia. I f you spend over 50 at any shop displaying the Global Refund Tax Free logo, they can issue you with a special Refund Cheque when you pay. At shops that dont officially participate in the program, youll need to ask for a special invoice for foreigners - you can still get the refund, it just involves a little more red tape. When you leave the EU just show the item you purchased and relevant paperwork to a customs official, who will give you the necessary stamps. You can then receive cash or credit at any of the many Global Refund Offices around the world - at Ljubljanas Brnik airport this is located at the news agents in the check-in area. However, before making any extravagant purchases assuming youll receive a 20% discount, make sure to double-check your departure info, especially if you have a layover in another EU country on your way home. Not all customs offices are open 24 hours, so depending on the time and length of your layover, it may be next to impossible to get the official stamps you need.

Street smarts
Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in conversation, so while your destination may officially be called Poljanska ulica, you can survive by just saying Poljanska Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Highway Cesta (tses-tah) Boulevard Most (mohst) Bridge Nabreje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Embankment Trg (teh-rg) Square Ulica (oo-leet-sah) Street

The entrance to Anthonys Shaft in Idrija with the Roman god Mercury and the affirmation Sreno - which literally translates as good luck, but doesnt sound quite so ominous in Slovene, photo by YMB

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10

Idrija
Where to Sleep
City Centre
tel. +386 (0)31 603 333, mihael.podobnik@gmail. com. This large apartment directly opposite Anthonys Shaft in the centre of the old town (its name means on the old square) has two separate bedrooms and can sleep up to seven people if the convertible couch in the living room is utilised. Minimally furnished, spacious and kept spotlessly clean, its great option for a big family or small groups that would like their privacy. Meals can be arranged with advance notice, but there is also a fully-equipped kitchen in the living room for self-catering. Each of the bedrooms have their own bathrooms and can theoretically be rented individually, although this can be difficult to arrange during the peak season. JL 71 162, www.kut.si. Although its situated in the same building that formerly served as the main entrance to Idrijas famed mercury mine and now houses the towns fine mining museum, the eight rooms in this centrally-located guesthouse are all bright, airy and modernly furnished with en suite bathrooms. The houses secondary claim to fame is as the birthplace of Stanko Bloudek, an artist, designer and engineer, who is often referred to as the Slovenian Leonardo da Vinci, and among his many other distinctions designed the giant Planica ski jump and is the only Slovene to ever be on the International Olympic Committee. Q 8 rooms (singles 30, doubles 60, triples 80, quads 90). PJALKW

Idrija
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre Vodnikova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 374 39 16, fax +386 (0)5 374 39 15, ticidrija@icra.si, www.idrija-turizem.si. Conveniently located opposite the main bus station, Idrijas tourist information centre is housed in the building that was formerly the engine room for the Inzaghi mine shaft - although the large piece of machinery dominating the room looks to be brand new, it was actually the original pulley system used to transport workers into and out of the mine, and dates back all the way to 1890. Once youve had a chance to peer into the deceptively deep space below the wheel, shift your focus to the seemingly endless supply of brochures, guidebooks (including this one hopefully), maps and brochures covering every square metre of Idrija, as well neighbouring regions and sites throughout Slovenia. This is also the best place to hire a knowledgable local guide, or ask a friendly English-speaking member of the staff some basic questions before heading out on your own. Dont forget to make a return visit before you leave town to pick up the necessary postcards, souvenirs or other gifts - including of course a selection of authentic hand-made Idrija lace.
was for generations the primary residence of the wealthy Kenda family, the building and surrounding grounds on a small hillock overlooking Spodnja Idrija have been painstakingly restored to their former splendour, while also being enhanced with all of the modern amenities befitting of a five-star boutique hotel. The eleven rooms vary greatly in size and shape, but are all furnished with authentic 19th-century antiques and handmade Idrija lace. A member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux Hotel Association, guests can be assured superb professional service from the highly trained staff, and exquisite cuisine prepared by the house chef who was formerly awarded the title Chef of Year for Slovenia. Q 11 rooms (singles 130-230, doubles 180-330). PHAILBKW

11

Apartma na Starmu Placu Trg svetega Ahacija 7,

Gostie Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37

A birds eye view of Idrijas old town, photo byJani Peternelj If you mention the name Idrija to most Slovenes, two words immediately come to mind (mercury and lace), perhaps followed shortly thereafter by a third (likrofi). The discovery of the what would grow to become the worlds second largest mercury mine here in 1490 led to nearly 500 years of prosperity and growth associated with the mining industry, while a unique lacemaking tradition developed amongst the wives and daughters of miners, which still continues to this day. The trifecta is rounded out by likrofi, a distinctive ravioli-like culinary speciality that became Slovenias first officially protected dish in 2010. While this would be enough to put most towns of around 12,000 residents on the map, Idrijas tourism offer goes well beyond its most famous individual elements, combining its rich historical, industrial, natural and cultural heritage into one well-organised package. Within easy driving distance from both the Mediterranean coast and the Slovene capital Ljubljana, Idrija nevertheless feels as if its hidden away from the outside world by the three plateaus that converge around it. Thanks to this natural beauty (which includes the countrys first protected natural monument) and perhaps even more so to the foresight that led local industries to diversify away from mining, Idrija was not only able to avoid the economic hardships that befell other former mining towns, but has continued to prosper as a tourist destination - the culmination of which was its designation as a European Destination of Excellence in 2011.

UNESCO Heritage Site

SV
NA DEDI I C OV ET

TA

GE

PATRIM

United Nations Educational, Scientic and Cultural Organization

Heritage of Mercury. Almadn and Idrija inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012

As had long been expected, Idrija was officially added to the ranks of UNESCO World Heritage sites in June 2012. Jointly recognised with the city of Almaden in Spain, which is the location of the only mercury mine in the world larger than Idrijas, the much-deserved achievement was the result of a six-year effort by the two towns forever connected by their shared history of mercury, as well as the technical and industrial heritage that developed as a result of it. small villages and get increasingly windy as you near Idrija - if you get stuck behind one of the many school buses plying this route to take pupils to the mining museum, it can add an extra few minutes to your journey. Take the exit to Logatec and follow the 102 and signs from there. If youre feeling adventurous, or it just suits your itinerary better, Idrija can also be reached via smaller roads over the mountains from Nova Gorica and Tolmin in the east or iri and kofja Loka in west, which are usually kept clear of snow during winter. If you dont have your own car, there are nine buses per day between 08:15 and 19:15 from Ljubljanas main station, although this drops to eight on Saturdays and five on Sundays. The fare is 6.30 one-way, and can be paid on the bus.

Idrija Youth Hostel IX Korpusa 17, tel. +386 (0)5 373 40 76, fax +386 (0)5 373 40 89, idrija@youthhostel.si. Basic inexpensi ve accommodation a few minutes up the hill from the city centre, if youre on a tight budget or looking to meet other travellers who like to veer off the proverbial beaten path this place is for you. More than half of the 43 beds are found in private double rooms, which means you can also save some euros without sacrificing your privacy. Extras such as WiFi, sheets, towels and parking are all included in the price, and there are several common areas, a TV room and large garden at guests disposal. Q 16 rooms (doubles 26). JLW Hotel Joef Vojkova 9a, tel. +386 (0)8 20 04
250/+386 (0)5 37 50 650, info@hotel-jozef.si, www. hotel-jozef.si. Instead of being discouraged by the lack of suitable accommodation options for its visiting employees and business partners, the Idrija-based Kolektor Group simply decided to build a four-star business class hotel across the street from its offices. No expense was spared in designing the spacious comfortable rooms, and the attention to detail is evident from the complimentary bath products and mini-bar selection to the ample workspace and smoking chamber in the hallway. Theres also an excellent restaurant on the first floor, while the professional ser vice ensures a pleasurable worr y-free stay. PJAULKXW

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Kmeki Hram Fortuna Idrek 1a, Idrek, tel. +386 (0)5 377 91 49/+386 (0)40 600 811, kmecki.hram@ siol.net. Perched at the edge of the Ledine plateau overlooking the Idrijca Valley and Spodnja Idrija to one side the the hills leading down to iri on the other, Fortuna combines the peaceful seclusion of the countryside with easy access to many of the areas attractions. The rooms are comfortably furnished and all come with en suite bathrooms and tiny satellite TVs, but the real draw here in addition to the location is the restaurant on the ground floor, which is a popular destination for independent visitors, tour groups and locals. LBK Prenoia Na Kluk Govejk 14c, Govejk, tel. +386
(0)5 3779 007/+386 (0)51 435 497, info@nakluk.si, www.nakluk.si. Tucked away between mountain meadows and thick forests just outside the tiny village of Govejk, which lies in the hills to the east of Spodnja Idrija on the main road to iri, Na Kluk offers nine tidy little rooms with a total of 28 beds. Modest but well-kept, the place is perfect for visitors looking to explore the surrounding natural sights on either bike or foot, or just relax under the shade of a tree as time slows to a crawl. We especially like the rooms upstairs with wood-panelled ceilings, but as they are all themed on different colours, you may want to ask whats available when you check-in. TL

Arriving
Located in a river valley and surrounded by hills and plateaus, Idrija is only accessible by car - unless of course youre an avid cyclist. It takes roughly 50 minutes to make the 60km drive from Ljubljana, about half of which is motorway, while the remaining half is along country roads that take you through several

Around Idrija
Kendov Dvorec Na Griu 2, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 37 25 100, fax +386 (0)5 37 56 475, info@kendov-dvorec.com, www.kendov-dvorec.com. Kendov Dvorec is quite simply one of the finest hotels in all of Slovenia, and truly has to be seen to be believed. A sprawling country manor that dates back to 1377 and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

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Idrija
Where to Eat
www.gostilna-kos.si. One of the oldest restaurants in Idrija, its impossible to miss Gostilna Kos as you cross the the bridge leading into the centre of the town. The speciality of the house is what else but likrofi, with bakalco (mutton) and goulash being the most popular sauces to go along with the potato-filled dumplings. They usually have at least a few hearty set-menus to choose from at lunch time, and the ground floor dining area (and restroom) is also wheelchair accessible. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Mon 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PAUBX

Idrija
some of the best food around, including what may very well be our favourite vegetarian dish in all of Slovenia: the spinach truklji with cream sauce (which we admittedly first ordered by accident). The are also four newly opened guest rooms, which offer cosy modern accommodation in the very centre of town. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. PTJAB

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Gostilna Kos Tomieva 4, tel. +386 (0)5 372 20 30,

Gostilna Metka rni Vrh 78, tel. +386 (0)41 211

443/+386 (0)5 3777 015, info.metka@gmail.com, www.gostilnametka.com. Sitting atop the rni Vrh plateau in the centre of a cosy little village of the same name, Gostilna Metka (or Gostilna pri Metki as it is sometimes called) is a family-run restaurant and guesthouse that was first opened in 1888. The traditional food is roundly excellent, and trying the Ferdinand dessert after your meal is a must. At an altitude of over 700m, a trip here offers a refreshing break during the hot summer months, and with six guest rooms available it also makes an great base for exploring the plateau on foot or bike. Bed and breakfast is 25 per person, and full-board is an absolute steal at only 30. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PTALB

Gostilna likrof Vojkova 14, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11 65/+386 (0)51 428 606, zlikrof.stolc@gmail.com. A newish place that serves up inexpensive meals by the dozens to a clientele consisting primarily of workers from nearby companies on their lunch breaks, given the prominently placed word likrofi on the faade you dont get any prize for guessing what the most popular dish on the menu is (hint: its not spaghetti). To find the place just keep an eye out for the round faade on your right on the main road to Spodnja Idrija. QOpen 07:30-22:00 Mon-Thur, 07:30-23:00 Fri, 11:00-23:00 Sat and 11:00-15:00 Sun.

Gostie Barbara Kosovelova 3, tel. +386 (0)5 37 71 162, www.kut.si. Located on the first floor above the Anthonys Shaft mining museum and information centre, this bright modern restaurant attracts a mix of locals and tourists, and has a good selection of regional dishes and interesting delicacies - if youve always wanted to try deer steak with chocolate sauce this is your chance! Ask to see the sheet with the specials of the month, as these multi-course set-menus always feature tasty seasonal dishes and are also usually the best value. Q Open 09:00-22:00 Mon-Thur, 09:00-23:00 FriSat, 10:00-22:00 Sun and holidays. PTJALBSW Gostie Mostier Mokraka Vas 1, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 377 61 17/+ 386 (0)41 444 969, branko. bezek@email.si. Reached via a massive through arch bridge on the road to Spodnja Idrija Mostier is a popular place for local families to gather for important birthdays, wedding receptions, anniversaries and other special events. While the outside is rather nondescript, the interior has character in spades, with wooden beam ceilings, a bar for grizzled fisherman to congregate at before heading home to their wives, and a room dedicated to Josip Broz Tito - were still unclear if he ever ate here, but his portrait is on the wall. Fresh river fish is the highlight of the menu, and dining outside along the river near the childrens playground is a must if the weather allows for it. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. TALB

Cafs
first, and so far only, palainkarnica that weve ever come across, in addition to the expectedly wide selection of both savoury and sweet pancakes (or crepes if youre American) youll find a popular caf that was lovingly renovated, expanded, designed and decorated over the years by the owner and manager - she even makes her own chocolate! The large covered terrace on the small square-cum-car park outside can get lively in the evenings during the warmer months, and is also a great place to enjoy your ice cream or other dessert during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. PTJB

Amigos Rona 8, tel. +386 (0)5 37 41578. The

What to See
Essential Idrija
Gewerkenegg Castle & Idrija Municipal Museum (Mestni Muzej Idrija) Preloveva 9, tel. +386 (0)5
37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno.si, www. muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Idrijas award-winning city museum is housed in the 16th century Gewerkenegg Castle, which towers over the old town from its perch on a small hillock to the west. Built in the 1533, the castles somewhat odd sounding name is said to have come from the old German word for mine or mining company (Gerwerke) and the surname of the Habsburg vice regent (Jurij Egg) who was in charge of the mine at the time of the castles construction. First used as a simple storage facility for wheat and mercury, the castle long-served as the administrative offices for the mine, and at various times over the centuries parts of the castle also functioned as offices for other enterprises, schools and residential quarters. Its appearance largely dates back to the mid-18th century when renovations were carried out in the Baroque style, and it was also extensively renovated in the early 1990s. It has been the home of Idrijas Municipal Museum, and music school, since 1953, which boasts a total of 26 separate exhibition rooms that cover a total space of 1300m2. The museums highlights include the mineralogical and petrographic collection, where among other items you can view a bowl of liquid mercury with a solid iron ball floating in it and pick up a mercury-rich chunk of cinnabar, and the Idrija lace collection, which was opened in 2008 and details the history of the citys lace production from its 17th century beginnings all the way up to modern lace fashion by some of Slovenias top designers. However, the single most impressive lace piece may be the large intricate tablecloth that was created by a team of 12 master lacemakers in the 1970s as a gift for Titos wife Jovanka (which was never actually given to the Yugoslav first lady due to a dispute with the protocol office). Other exhibitions not to be missed are the so-called Mercury Tower (which combines mining equipment with modern art), a collection of artefacts from the time of Italian and German occupation, and a fine modern art collection donated by Idrijaborn Valentina Orsini Mazza. It was named the best European The imposing faade of Gewerkenegg Castle, photo by Dunja Wedam museum of industrial and technical heritage in 1997, and also received Slovenias top museum prize in 2008. In addition to the physical premises, the museum also boasts one of the most user-friendly and informative websites weve seen, which details the individual collections held at Gewerkenegg Castle as well as the separate sites it manages around Idrija (the Partisan Print Shop, Miners House, etc). Q Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 3.50, children and students 1.70.

+386 (0)5 377 63 16. This is not only the best place to try Idrijas famous likrofi, but its also one only a handful of restaurants in Slovenia that we consider amongst our personal favourites. Run by the husband and wife team Drago and Mira, he is about the friendliest host you can imagine, while she produces some wonderful dishes in the kitchen. The aforementioned likrofi come in a dozen different mouthwatering varieties - or a different one for each month as they like to say - while the rest of the menu is equally appetising. Drago is also rightfully proud of his carefully composed wine list, and finishing a meal without a glass of homemade schnapps is simply unthinkable. A terrace with sweeping views of the valley below and a play area for the kids round out the offer. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. PTALB

Gostilna Mlinar irovska 4, Spodnja Idrija, tel.

Gostilna Pri kafarju Ulica Svete Barbare 9, tel.

+386 (0)5 377 32 40, gostilnaskafar@siol.net, www. skafar.si. Named for the legendary bucket maker who first discovered Idrijas mercury over 500 years ago, this place has a great atmosphere, whether you sit downstairs in view of the wood-fired pizza oven, upstairs in the room lined with the iconic works of a famous local artist, or at one of the handfuls of tables outside. Perhaps more importantly it has

Galerija Bar Ulica Sv. Barbare 4. This recently renovated caf in the centre of the old town features red ceilings, moody soft lighting and an eclectic selection of contemporary art on the walls - all of which can be purchased from the artists. The thoroughly modern interior is supplemented by some shaded tables in the alleyway outside, and the clientele is a mixed group ranging from young people drinking draught beers and old men reading newspapers to tourists enjoying cocktails. Small warm snacks are also available. Q Open 06:30-23:00 Mon-Thur, 06:30-24:00 Fri-Sat and 08:0023:00 Sun. PJBW Kavarna Idrija Tel. +386 (0)31 356 554. This place
would be cool and trendy even if it were in the capital Ljubljana (although it would likely be called Art Caf or something similar), which makes it a pleasantly surprising find in a town the size of Idrija. Hosting temporary exhibitions by international artists as well as frequent concerts and other events, this is easily the hippest place to drink while youre in town. Located in the same stately building as city hall in the centre of the old town, its large picture windows and comfortable modern dcor make it a fine place to relax with a coffee during the day as well. PJEBW

Anthonys Shaft Arkova 43, tel. +386 (0)5 377 11

Pri Zagodu Gregorieva 69, tel. +386 (0)5 377 35

These spinach truklji tasted even better than they look, photo by YMB

05. After a long day of fishing theres no better place to come and satiate your thirst than this classic countryside bar, set just south of town on the main road opposite a large bend in the river. While the regular customers may not speak much English, theyre definitely a friendly lot, and the curious sight of a foreign visitor in their midst is sure to put you on the receiving end of some good-natured attention.

42, antonijev.rov@volja.net, www.rzs-idrija.si. Anthonys Shaft - or Anthonys Main Road as it is sometimes called, as it long served as the mines main entrance - is the oldest part of Idrijas unimaginably expansive underground world, which was once comprised of some 700km of shafts. Located at the spot where the mine was initially dug in the year 1500, an 18th century building called the eltev now serves as a living museum, education centre and entry point for tours into the mine itself, and is a must-see sight for those interested in Idrijas rich mining history. Most visits begin with a screening of a short film (available in several languages) that gives a detailed history of the mine, from its geological origins to its discovery in 1490 by a now legendary bucket maker and the ensuing development and expansion of both the mine and town that occurred as a result. Special attention is paid to the lives of the hard-working miners whose sweat and blood made it possible, and prepares viewers for the journey they are about to embark on. While the majority of the mine was backfilled before being officially closed in 1995, part of that still open has been set up for tours, which take visitors some 100m below the earths surface and provide a firsthand experience of the conditions the miners worked under. One of the subterranean highlights

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Idrija
Churches
Church of St Anthony and the Cavalry Thanks to its
position atop Rona Hill overlooking Idrija below, the Church of St Anthony is the most visible church of any in the region, which is fitting as it was originally built by the towns miners in honour of their patron, St Anthony of Padua, towards the end of the 17th century. The adjacent Calvary, with its 13 smaller chapels and large upper one, which stretch their way even higher up the hill, were completed in 1766. Representing the 14 stations of the cross, despite being much smaller than the church they perhaps add even more visual splendour to the entire location. The churchs interior is of a baroque style

Idrija

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Idrijas Mercury Mine

Quite simply put, Idrija was built upon the worlds second largest mercury mine and likely owes its existence, history and fortune (both good and bad) to the only metal that is found in a liquid form under standard conditions: quicksilver, Hydragyrum, Hg, atomic number 80, mercury. Known as ivo sebro (living silver) in Slovene, legend has it that mercury was first discovered here at the end of the 15th century by a tub maker who witnessed it trickling out of the rocks in its native form while he was testing out one of his buckets in a small stream. Created in the form of mercury rich cinnabar ore some 235 million years earlier during a period of intense tectonic and volcanic activity, by 1500 a small mine and smelting plant had already been established, and thus began the extraction process that would continue for over 500 years. The cinnabar ore found here is exceptionally high grade, with up to 78% mercury content, and over its five centuries of operation the mine produced a staggering 13% of all the mercury ever mined in the world - making it second only to the famous Almadn mine in Spain, which was active for nearly five times longer. During an exceptionally productive period at the end of the 18th century, the value of mercury from Idrijas mine accounted for 5% of the total economic output of the Habsburg Empire, an amount that is almost unfathomable by todays standards. Due to both local environmental concerns and falling international demand, the mine began a two-decade process of winding down operations, which included backfilling most of the 700km of shafts out of which 107,000 tons of mercury had been carried. Nowadays visitors can visit the building that formerly served as the mines main entrance, Anthonys Shaft, where they can watch a short video presentation explaining its history in more detail and take a tour through a section of the mine that is still open. In June 2012, the mercury mines of Idrija and Almadn were jointly recognised as official UNESCO world heritage sites. The contemporary stained glass windows at the Church of the Holy Trinity feature some unusual images, photo by Branka Jovanovi that is typical for rural Slovenia, with the majority of the paintings and sculptures executed by local artists during the 19th century, including the expectedly resplendent main altar by Luka eferin in 1837. With the construction of the new parish church of St Joseph the Labourer in 1969, local churchgoers are no longer required to hike up the hill on Sunday mornings, but it is still a popular venue for weddings, first communions and other ceremonies. various tropical species and even some clownfish, the latter of which will forever associated with the film Finding Nemo. A selection of other animals also call the premises home, among which are a lazy iguana, some curious turtles and a couple of poison dart frogs. The highly qualified and Englishspeaking staff members will be more than happy to show you around, pointing out the highlights and providing further information about each animal. When we last visited a childrens education centre was also in the works. Q Open 14:00-19:00 Tues-Fri, 13:00-19:00 Sat-Sun and holidays. Closed Mon. Admission 5, children ages 3-18 3, under 3 free.

What life was like working in Idrijas mercury mine, photo by YMB is the 18th century chapel of the Holy Trinity, with statues depicting the patron saints of mining, St Barbara and St Acacius. This is where the miners offered their prayers for successful work and safe return before entering Attems Shaft and descending to a depth of 200m. The tour lasts around an hour and a half, and once youre back up in the light of day theres a small gift shop where sadly you cant buy any liquid mercury (as this would be illegal), but you can ask to hold a small glass jar of the stuff they have behind the counter - be careful, it weighs a couple of kilograms! Q Open 10:00-15:00 Tues-Fri. Tours depart at 10:00, 15:00 and 16:00 on Sat-Sun and holidays, or by prior arrangements for groups. Admission 7, children 4, multi-vision presentation only 2. Discounts for groups of 15 or more.

Church of the Holy Trinity Ulica Nikolaja Pirnata,

Francis Shaft and Technical Museum Bazovika 2, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno. si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. Now under the administration of the Idrija City Museum, the collection of technical equipment and machinery at Francis Shaft was one of the main beneficiaries of the massive effort to modernise the citys mines shortly after the Second World War. Although it may seem like the subject matter of the museum would only appeal to a niche audience, which is both knowledgable and enthusiastic about century-old Austrian-built steam-powered mining winches or six-stage centrifugal pumps of Czech origin, the various pieces of Idrijas industrial past were impressive enough to grab our attention for a surprisingly bit of time. That said, if youre a mining novice like us, its probably best to drop by after already having visited the City Museums main exhibition space in the castle and taking the tour of Anthonys Shaft, which will make it easier to appreciate everything in its larger historical and technical context. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission 2, children and students 1.30. EDEN Slovenia

tel. +386 (0)5 374 39 16, ticidrija@icra.si. More than just an active building of worship or a monument to over five centuries of architectural styles, this small church perched up the hill from the main square is the symbolic heart of Idrija and a testament to the towns history of wealth, perseverance and preservation. Set on the very spot where mercury was first discovered in 1490 - a fact that is confirmed by a still surviving document from Udine in Italy - the church initially took the form of the small wooden chapel, which was subsequently expanded and modified over the the next two hundred years. With the completion of the much larger parish church of St Barbara at the beginning of the 18th century, the Holy Trinity was left neglected and had fallen into disrepair by the middle of the 19th century, so much so that the townspeople considered turning it into a store room for mercury, or even demolishing it altogether. Luckily, the archbishop of Ljubljana at the time, Alojzij Wolf, who coincidentally happened to be from Idrija, interceded to ensure that the church was protected. In the early 1980s the municipality undertook lengthy renovations, which restored the building and furnishings, while emphasising its contrasting stylistic elements. The one embellishment made was the addition of some exquisite stained glass windows around the presbytery that combine Biblical themes with Idrijas history, and are perhaps now the churchs most interesting detail.

Idrija Military Museum Kosovelova 23, tel. +386 (0)5 377 16 88, vmi@email.si. Aficionados of military history shouldnt miss Idrijas petite but memorable homage to the conflicts and occupation that took place on Slovene soil during the 20th century. What it lacks in size, it makes up for with the sheer number of individual items on display in its three rooms, which are arranged by event if not chronology. The first room covers the ultimately successful struggle for national liberation during World War II, as well as a few items from the contemporary Slovene armed forces. The second room is dedicated to the World War I, with light equipment, uniforms and weapons used by soldiers fighting on the frontlines across Europe. While the third and largest room has a collection from the years when Idrija along with much of the west of Slovenia was occupied by Italy (1919-1945), and also documents the countrys 10-day war of independence in 1991. With so many tightly packed items presented, its the kind of place that you are practically guaranteed to see things for the first time, no matter if its your first visit or your tenth.
tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno.si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If you come here before heading down into the tunnels below Anthonys Mine Shaft, the low ceilings, dark walls and slightly miniaturised furnishings will likely feel claustrophobic. On the other hand, if this is your second stop of the two, then it may feel downright spacious in comparison. The point being, Idrijas miners tended not to be the largest of people, and their homes were built accordingly. Consisting of four floors rising up out of a foundation not much larger than 20m2 the houses were usually shared by several families, and are still a common sight in and around Idrija. However, most have long since had their interiors remodelled to incorporate modern comforts and larger spaces, with the house at Bazovika 4 being the only exception.

Miners House Bazovika 4, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600,

Museums & Exhibitions

Idrija Aquarium Preloveva 5, tel. +386 (0)40 33 66
99/+386 (0)5 37 71 130, akvarij@visit-idrija.si, www. akvarij-m.si. What started as the private collection of a local fish and reptile enthusiast has since grown into a full-fledged aquarium that is now run by the city. Despite its small size and visible spots of wear-and-tear, this place manages to pack in a dizzying number and variety of exotic fish in some three dozen separate aquariums - including piranhas, eels,

Photo byJani Peternelj

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Idrija
especially during the spring months when several varieties of native flowers cover the surrounding area in a carpet of white, yellow and intense purple blossoms. While we were admittedly sceptical when first told by locals that the lake was bottomless, not only is this claim true, but several experienced divers have lost their lives trying to find its subterranean source. What is currently known for sure is that the lake originates from a Vauclusian karst spring of at least 400m in length and more than 160m in depth, and is the second most important spring of this type in all of Europe - with only the namesake spring outside the village of Vaucluse in Avignon, France more well-known. Fed by a series of underground waterways that cover an area of some 125km2 above ground, during the heaviest rains the lake can discharge an enormous 100m3 of water per second into the 55m long Jezernica river (which is the shortest in Slovenia), while during the drier autumn months the flow can slow to a trickle and the river completely disappears. In 1967, the area was designated as the first protected natural monument in Slovenia, and now includes a small walking path, signs detailing some of the extensive flora and fauna and benches on which to rest while contemplating the magnitude of what lies beneath the turquoise surface.

Idrija
Idrija Lace

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The mysterious Wild Lake is one of the main attractions of the Zgornja Idrijca Landscape Park, photo bySamo Trebian Dating back to 18th century, the house was purchased by the Idrija Municipal Museum in 1985, and is now a protected cultural monument after being painstakingly restored to its original condition. On the ground floor theres a traditional black kitchen used for cooking, a living room area complete with board games and heirlooms, and a tiny bedroom with a pint-sized bed for two - which our guide slyly credited as one of the reason women in Idrija used to have so many children. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission 2, children and students 1.30.

Rake Water Chanel and Footpath Constructed some

Natural Heritage
Divje Jezero Literally translated as wild lake, theres more
to this small pool of water than meets the eye. Found only a couple of kilometres south of Idrija, at the base of nearly 100m high sheer rock cliffs, the setting is undeniably impressive,

Sport Fishing on the Idrijca

The crystal clear waters of the Idrijca river make for some prime fishing grounds - a fact that the locals have known and taken advantage of since at least the 13th century. In fact, it was so popular an activity that by the beginning of the 20th century the rivers fish stocks had become dangerously depleted, leading to the formation of Idrijas first fishing association in 1947. Since then, careful preservation and repopulation measures have lead to a marked increase in fish, and the river now regularly attracts professional anglers and amateur enthusiasts from all of Europe. Fishing licenses can be bought at numerous locations around town - including Hotel Joef, where guests receive a 20% discount - with prices depending on where exactly youd like to fish.

400 years ago to power the massive kamt (or water wheel pump) outside Josephs Shaft mine entrance, the Rake water channel runs nearly 3km into the Zgornja Idrijca landscape park to the Kobila Dam. The original wooden structure was replaced by brick and stone in the mid-18th century, and while the flowing water no longer powers the kamt, it is still used to this day to generate power at Lentat hydro-electric plant. The pathway is well-kept, even during the snowy winter months, and is extremely popular with locals, with doctors often prescribing daily walks to patients recovering from heart problems. For those interested in the regions diverse plant life, there are informative signs posted along the length of the trail, beginning with the Scopoli Memorial Garden, which is named after Johannes Antonius Scopoli, Idrijas first doctor and an avid botanist who wrote extensively on the areas vegetation among other topics. At the paths opposite end, the reservoir behind the sizeable dam was a popular swimming spot in the 1960s and 70s, with ample photographic evidence showing locals enjoying themselves during the summer, but nowadays is most notable for the karst springs that flow out of the rocks next to it. From this point trails lead further into the landscape park, and you can also reach

Photo byJani Peternelj Mercury and lace are indeed an odd couple, but they are also the two things most inextricably connected to both Idrijas past and present - mercury being the main driver of its economy for nearly 500 years, while its centuries-old lacemaking tradition has more recently become the most recognisable symbol of the town. The oldest document that mentions Idrijas lacemaking is from the very end of the 17th century, but the tradition almost certainly dates back much further as at this time tradesmen were already buying finished lace products from local women who produced it in their homes while their husbands were at work in the mines. Far from being just a hobby, the craft provided a valuable second source of income for local families. It was not until the end of the 19th century that the production of lace moved from individual homes and become a more standardised industry in Idrija. Credit for this transformation is often given to a young local lady, Ivanka Ferjani, who brought lacemaking to the attention of some important people in Vienna and lobbied for the establishment of Idrijas first lacemaking school in 1876. Ms Ferjani became the schools first teacher, but unfortunately died three years later at the age of only 29. However, her memory will never be forgotten, and thanks to her work the school is still operating today with up to 400 part-time students at any given time. Of the many exhibitions and galleries located in and around Idrijas old town, the best place to view the history of the tradition and the see exquisite examples of finished lace products is the multi-room exhibition at the City Museum that was opened in 2008. And of course there is also the annual Idrija Lace Festival, which is held on the third weekend in June and is now in its 32 year.

Lace Shops
Closed Sun in winter.

ipka Art 2000 Mestni Trg 14, tel. +386 (0)5 37 22 537, cipka-art2000@volja.net. Q Open 09:00-18:00. ipkarska ola Idrija Preloveva 2, tel. + 386

(0)5 37 34 570, info@cipkarskasola.si, www.cipkarskasola.si. QOpen 09:00-12:00, Wed 09:00-17:00. Closed Sat-Sun. iviljstvo Mal Lidija Anzelm Preloveva 9, Castle Gewerkenegg, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 788. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Studio Irma Vonina Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)5 377 15 84, voncina.irma@siol.net. Q Open 10:0012:00 and 13:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Studio Koder Mestni Trg 16, tel. + 386 (0)5 37 71 359, info@idrija-lace.si. Q Open 10:00-12:00 and 16:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Trgovina Vanda Mestni Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)5 37 73 444, vanda.lapajne@siol.net, www.vanda-lapajne.si. Q Open Tues-Wed 16:00-19:00, Thur-Fri 09:00-12:00. Closed Sat-Mon.

fishing association in Idrija is an invaluable resource for visiting anglers. Their multi-lingual website includes everything you need know about different fishing districts in the region and the different types of fish they contain. And if you cant find what you need, they are glad to respond to any enquiries sent via email.

Fishing Association of Idrija (Ribika Druina Idrija) info@rd-idrija.si, www.rd-idrija.si. The local

The Rake footpath is Idrijas most popular jogging route, photo by Dunja Wedam

Photo by Dunja Wedam

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Idrija
Idrija likrofi
Often described as a ravioli-type dish, Idrijas famous likrofi dumplings were the first Slovene dish to receive recognition and protection under the EUs Traditional Speciality Guaranteed label, which took place in 2010, some eight years after it had been granted traditional product status domestically by the Slovenian Ministry of Agriculture. While the comparison to Italian ravioli is not completely unfounded, as likrofi are essentially stuffed pasta dumplings that are boiled - indeed even we had long assumed this relation before we first tried them ourselves - they are a completely unique culinary speciality. And in fact, they are thought to have first come to Idrija by way of a German mining family sometime early in the 19th century, as the name bears some resemblance to the German word schlichtkrapfen or slippery dumpling. Although the exact origins are still, and will likely remain, unclear, as a matter of historical record they had already become well-known in Idrija by the mid-19th century. Regardless of where they came from, the end result is tasty, or at least has been every time weve had them. The filling consists of mashed potatoes mixed with smoked bacon (or fried lard), onions and various seasonings and herbs, which is then wrapped in homemade eggflour dough and formed into something of a hat shape. But what really makes likrofi special are the sauces that accompany them, with mutton or rabbit with vegetables (bakalca) being the most common, and local restaurants usually having at least a half dozen options and some offering a dozen or more, including sweet dessert versions that are filled with minced walnuts. As the locals say: if you havent tried likrofi, then you havent been to Idrija! stone. The foremost architect of these monumental water barriers was local Renaissance man Joseph Mrak, a mining expert, cartographer, cave topographer, painter and builder, who also designed a mechanism for more efficiently opening and closing the Klaes massive doors that controlled the release of water. This system was in use until the 1920s, after which they fell into a state of disrepair and slowly began to deteriorate. However, in the 1980s several of them were restored and are now protected as a unique part of Idrijas technological and cultural heritage, and can be visited independently or with a guide.

Idrija
Around Idrija
Partisan Cemetery This burial ground for the partisan fighters who lost their lives in April 1945 at a major battle near Vojica on the Vojsko Plateau is one of the largest and most visually interesting World War II memorials youll see anywhere in Slovenia. Set in an open field a few kilometres to the north of the village of Vojsko, the site consists of three dozen or so rounded stones of different sizes bearing the names of the 305 brave soldiers from the 9th Corps who perished here, and the entire ground is surrounded by a short stone wall. This area was a focal point of the national liberation struggle against the occupying forces, and saw frequent fighting during the war, however, this was one of the bloodiest days and occurred less than a month before the war came to an end in Slovene territory. A visit here can easily be combined with the nearby Partisan Printing Shop, ideally on a day hike across the larger Vojsko Plateau.

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Tourist Farms
Turistina Kmetija Pr Jure Ledine 19, Spodnja Idrija, tel. +386 (0)5 37 79 096/+386 (0)41 919 473, pr-jurec@volja.net, www.pr-jurec.net. Set in the hills high above Idrija on the Ledine Plateau, Pr Jure is a tourist farm unlike any of the many others weve had the pleasure of visiting in Slovenia. While they serve up delectable homemade cuisine and offer seemingly limitless glasses of excellent Slovene wine, what really sets the place apart is what they have hidden in the barn. Calling it simply an ethnological museum would be a grave disservice, as the numerous items on display are not only meant to be viewed, but are also put to their intended uses by the eager curator, tour guide and owner of the farm Duan Bogataj. An excitable fellow, Mr Bogataj leads groups through a comprehensive collection of tools, equipment and personal possessions that had been passed down from previous generations, and in some cases stored for nearly two centuries before being dusted off and put back into service. Every facet of rural life is on display here from shoe repair and cooking utensils to large horse-drawn ploughs and more modern 20th century tractors. Perhaps the most interesting - and sometimes interactive - part of the tour is an educational demonstration of how one of humanities most basic ingredients, flour, is produced, which begins with a pile of wheat and ends with a loaf of bread fresh out of the oven of Mrs Bogataj. Of course as with many things in Slovenia, the tour is not finished until youve sampled a few glasses of homemade schnapps. A highly informative, entertaining and tasty place to visit indeed.

The Kamt is the largest wooden water wheel in Europe, photo bySamo Trebian

Technical Heritage
Kamt Water Wheel Vodnikova, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrija-cerkno.si, www.muzejidrija-cerkno.si. While the aged stone building surrounded by sports fields and tennis courts along a bend in the Idrijca River is impressive enough from the outside, the faade gives few hints as to the magnitude of whats contained within its walls: namely, the largest wooden wheel in Europe. Measuring 13.6 metres in diameter, this absurdly large structure was built in 1790, and operated more or less continuously until 1948. Idrijas miners began building such wheels as far back as the end of the 16th century in order to supply power for lifting ore and pumping water out of the pits. Somewhat ironically, they were also powered by water, which in this case came from a channel that was diverted 3.5km upriver and still serves as a popular jogging path nowadays. When it was operational the wheel rotated at the very judicious rate of 4.5 revolutions per minute and managed only a modest 100 horse-power, however, thanks to its girth it was still able to pump approximately 300 litres of water per minute from depths of almost 300 metres. Although the wheel and its premises were completely restored in recent years (and look as if they could have just been built!), not only is everything original, but its also the last remaining device of its type in Slovenia that is still in its original location. Q Open 09:00-16:00. Admission 2, children and students 1.30. Klave The so-called pyramids of Slovenia are another of
Idrijas sights that are inextricably connected with the towns mining history. Melting down the mercury-rich cinnabar ore extracted from the earth in order to obtain more easily transportable pure liquid mercury was an energy intensive task, which required huge amounts of timber to be burned to heat furnaces to some 600C. Luckily Idrija was - and thanks to good management still is - surrounded by vast forests. However, getting the fallen trees from the surrounding countryside to the smelting plants was a tricky matter in the time before mechanised transport and modern logging equipment. To overcome this problem, an ingenious system was implemented whereby trees were slid down hillsides to small riverbeds, where dams were built and reservoirs were released to carry the wood all the way into town. Towards the end of the 16th century these structures, or Klave as they are known, were made of wood themselves, but by the end of the 18th century the design had been refined and they were now more soundly constructed of brick and

Feast of Idrija likrofi

Held the first Saturday each September, this culinary event aims to promote Idrijas traditional likrofi with a series of workshops, demonstrations, tastings and other events. If youve never had the chance to taste these famous dumplings then this is a great chance to see what youve been missing - and even if you have, its a great excuse to pay Idrija another visit.

Slovenian Partisan Printing Shop Vojsko 64, tel. +386 (0)5 37 26 600, tajnistvo@muzej-idrijacerkno.si, www.muzej-idrija-cerkno.si. If the exhibition of original printed works at the City Museum pique your interest, a follow-up trip to the legendary partisan printing shop hidden away in the forest below Vojsko plateau is a must. First set up in September 1944, to call it simply a printing shop is a vast understatement, as the facilities are comprised of an engine room, kitchen, dining room, composing room, binding station and an electric power plant, where between 40-50 people at a time worked until May 1945. The trickiest endeavour in setting up the place was procuring the modern electric printing machine, which was purchased in Milan at a cost of over one million Italian lira, disassembled and transferred illegally to the newly constructed facilities. However, the money and effort were well spent, as the machine is still operational to this day. During its eight months of operation, the main activity was printing the Partisan Daily, which had a circulation of between 4000 and 7000 copies and has the rather impressive distinction of being the only daily opposition newspaper printed in all of occupied Europe. Numerous brochures, leaflets, flyers and other items were also printed, and many of these as well as the original linocuts and engraved lead seals can be viewed both here and in the City Museum. Q Open daily 09:00-16:00 from 15 April to 15 October. Admission 2, children 1.30.

Tourist Agencies
Active Idrija Tourist Agency Mestni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)31 291 263/+386 (0)31 601 620, info@ active-idrija.com, www.active-idrija.com. In addition to all of Idrijas natural, cultural and technical heritage sites, the surrounding region also offers many sports activities - and the professionally trained instructors and guides at Active Idrija make taking advantage of these opportunities easy. Some of their most popular activities include hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing and horseback riding, while other possibilities include spending the day with a local hunter (viewing and tracking animals) or taking a scenic off-road guided tour on remote gravel roads and mountain tracks. Prices and itineraries of all activities are fixed and available on the agencys website, but can also be tailored to meet the individual needs and wishes of customers. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 and 16:00-18:00. 2012/13

likrofi with traditional bakalca sauce, photo byAndrej Kri

Klave, the so-called pyramids of Idrija, photo bySamo Trebian

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Kolpa River
Bela Krajina Hiking and Cycling Paths
The varied landscape of Bela Krajina offers some great opportunities for hiking and cycling, and the local tourist offices have produced some excellent free guides detailing over a dozen specific routes that can be covered both on foot or by bike, and can also provide info on renting bikes. The very useful 3-D maps make reading the lay of the land easy, and each route has a lengthy description of the sights and attractions to watch out for along the way, as well as technical info about the length, difficulty and average duration of the trips. The most popular cycling routes for tourists are unsurprisingly those that follow along the Kolpa river, although we are personally fond of the paths that follow the seemingly endless vineyards running along the edge of the valley east of rnomelj all the way to Semi and beyond. Hikers also have a wide variety of paths to choose from, and organised hikes take place throughout the year.

Kolpa River
uncovered by excavations through a transparent section of the floor. Visits can be arranged though the tourist office at the other side of town.

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Around rnomelj
Beekeeping Educational Path unii, tel. +386 (0)7
356 52 40, info@kp-kolpa.si, www.kp-kolpa.si. Beekeeping has always been an important part of rural life in the Bela Krajina region, but in recent years it seems that fewer locals here have the time necessary to devote to the activity. It is within this context that the Beekeeping Educational Path was opened in the Kolpa Krajinski Park in 2008, in order to educate visitors and especially the youth about the role that bees and beekeeping play in the larger ecological picture. Some 300m of pathways lead visitors between various different trees, flowers, shrubs and other plants, all of which are marked with education boards detailing when they are bloom and how useful they are for the production of honey. The path is located right next to the okev Dvor farmstead in the village of unii, and is usually combined as part of a single tour.

rnomelj
rnomelj is the largest municipality in Bela Krajina, both in terms of size and population, with some 14,500 inhabitants residing on the 340km2 of land within its borders. Its somewhat ironic then that the medieval old town at the centre of it all is relatively tiny, squeezed as it were on a narrow raised strip of land in a tight bend of the slow moving Lahinja river. The first settlers here didnt have the foresight of modern urban planning, as it was still only the Late Iron Age some 3,000 years ago. But in fact, the bit of land on which these early humans settled provides such as good natural defence that is has been inhabited more or less continuously ever since. The first Slavic people moved here at the beginning of the 10th century, and Slavic identity is perhaps still felt more strongly in these parts than elsewhere in Slovenia - some churches still bear symbols from Slavic mythology, and the most important annual festival also has Slavic roots. Modern rnomelj extends northwards from the old town, and is where you will find the train and bus stations, large shopping centres and most of the industry in the region. Aside from a couple of fertile valleys to the west and east of the town, most of the rest of the municipality is covered in forests, while the entire south and east are bordered by the Kolpa river.

Events in rnomelj
Jurjevanje www.jurjevanje.si. First held in 1964, Jurjevanje is the oldest folklore festival in Slovenia, and in recent years had also become one of the largest. The festival is actually the culmination of two months of celebrations that begin with St Georges Day on 24 April, which officially welcomes the spring season. The cultural programme includes various workshops, lectures and exhibitions, but the main events are the singing, dancing and musical heritage performances given by folklore groups from both Slovenia and abroad. While the focus is primarily on groups from the Bela Krajina region, in recent years the organisers have been able to book some world famous international folklore bands as well. During the five-day festival the party usually goes well into the night, with ethno-folk, pop and rock bands also taking to the stage. Events are held in late June at several venues in rnomeljs old town, but main venue is the natural amphitheatre called Jurjevanska Draga located in the north of the town near the train station. Schengenfest www.schengenfest.si. How can
you not like a festival whose motto is to be bigger and sexier each year - especially when this goal has actually been accomplished in full for over half a decade? When Schengenfest first began in 2008, it was little more than a one-day concert with only half a dozen performers taking to the stage. Now in just a few short years its grown into a full-fledged music festival, with dozens of musicians playing over three days, including some of the biggest names in pop and rock music from Slovenia and neighbouring countries, including Siddharta, Big Foot Mama, Dan D, Riblja orba and Parni Valjak, as well as well-known international bands such as Kaiser Chiefs, Parov Stellar and Leningrad Cowboys - and this was only the line-up for 5th anniversary festival in 2012. With Croatia scheduled to join the EU any time now (although this has been the case for years), theres no word what will happen when/if the Kolpa river loses its status as a Schengen border, but we have faith that the organisers will find a way keep the sound, sun and fun going well into the future. The festival is held around the first week of August each summer near the village of Vinica. Three-day passes are between 49-65 depending on how early theyre purchased, and single day tickets are also available.

Rafting on the Kolpa river is the regions most popular summertime activity, photo by Vesmin Kajtozovi, Archive STB Named a European Destination of Excellence in 2010, the pristine Kolpa river is often referred to as Slovenias longest coastline. While this distinction is meant to have a bit of fun at the expense of the countrys diminutive 47km long Mediterranean coast, its more a testament to the Kolpas popularity as an aquatic destination, especially during the hot summer months when the water of the lower river can reach a bath-like 30C. Forming some 113km of Slovenias (Schengen) border with Croatia, the river begins its journey in Osilnica, the countrys smallest municipality and the land of Peter Klepec. From there it winds its way through the breathtaking green hills of Kolpa Gorge, past Kostels famous castle and the thick bear-filled forests of Koevje, before it slows down and meanders along the entire south and east edges of rnomelj, finally moving through some of Slovenias best wine growing land in Metlika before entering Croatia and eventually joining the Sava river at the end of its 297km journey. These lands touched by the Kolpas placid waters have much more to offer visitors than just the river itself though. They include a diverse selection of protected natural landscapes, rich cultural and culinary heritage, and genuinely friendly welcoming locals who will make you feel at home the moment you arrive. In the pages below weve presented a brief overview of the things to see and do in the region, but if you still need more convincing, or would just like to see some more photos, you can visit the official Kolpa river website (yes, even rivers have websites these days) at www.kolpariver.eu. in the region of Bela Krajina is your destination, take the motorway in the direction of Zagreb to the Ivanna Gorica exit, pass through the pretty little town of uemberk and onwards on Route 216 through the forests until you emerge near Semi (alternatively, you can take the motorway all the way to Novo Mesto and head south from there to Metlika). As for public transport, buses are your only option to the upper river, with a trip to Koevje taking about 1.5hrs and leaving every hour or so on weekdays. For Bela Krajina and the lower river, the train is a much better option, with up to a dozen per day making the 2-3hr journey from Ljubljana to Metlika via rnomelj.

Tourist information
56 530, info@ric-belakrajina.si, www.belakrajina.si, www.kolpariver.eu. The tourist information centre located inside rnomeljs castle also serves as the main info point for the Bela Krajina region, and actually pulls triple duty as the official centre for the entire destination of the Kolpa river. In other words, if you cant get the info or answers youre looking for here, then you might as well stop looking. In addition to piles of useful maps, brochures and booklets, theres also a small gift shop with the most typical traditional crafts. W TIC Koevje Ljubljanska 26, tel. +386 (0)1 89 382 26, turizem@obc-kocevje.si, www.kocevje.si. TIC Kostel Vas 4, tel. + 386 (0)1 89 48 070, info@ kostel.si, www.info-kostel.si. TIC Metlika Trg Svobode 4, tel. +386 (0)7 36 35 470, tdvigred.metlika@siol.net, www.metlikaturizem.si. TIC Semi tefanov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)7 35 65 200, www.kc-semic.si.

TIC rnomelj Trg Svobode 3, tel. +386 (0)7 30

What to See in rnomelj

Church of the Holy Spirit Ulica Mirna Jarca. Set at the very southern edge of rnomeljs old town, above where the smaller Dobliica flows into the Lahinja river, the Church of the Holy Spirit is a testament to the towns long and storied history, which goes back much further than Christianity itself. Archeological excavations have found evidence beneath the church confirming the existence of an Iron Age settlement here, while an earlier church was built on the exact same location by the Byzantines during late antiquity, from which parts of the foundation and some mosaics still exist. The predecessor of the current church was first mentioned in the historical record in 1487, but the actual building only dates to the middle of the 19th century, when it was extensively renovated and expanded. Severely damaged during the Second World War, the church was subsequently deconsecrated, and reopened as a cultural space in 2007 after undergoing further renovations. In addition to hosting frequent exhibitions by well-known Slovene and international artists, visitors can also view partially preserved mosaics and see different layers of history eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Arriving
The most convenient way to reach and explore the Kolpa river is with your own car. If youre headed to the areas of the upper river from Ljubljana, Route 106 will take you directly to Koevje in about an hour, and then its just a matter of following the sign south from there to Kostel and Osilnica. If the slower moving waters of the lower river

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Kolpa River
Vinika Republika
Vinica is an unassuming village of around 200 residents some 18km south of rnomelj, lying just before the Kolpa river and border with Croatia. Its also one of our favourite places in Slovenia. Known nowadays primarily for being the birthplace of acclaimed early 20th century poet Oton upani, as well as the site of the increasingly famous Schengenfest music festival (which is bigger and sexier each year), the village has long had a reputation among the locals of Bela Krajina as a peculiar sort of place. One legend that perfectly captures the spirit of the people here goes back to the time when the region was under the constant threat of Turkish invasion. One day someone from the village spotted the advancing Ottoman army, and knew that with a population much the same size as it is today they would be helpless to defend themselves against the imminent attack. Without hesitation the town elders calmly asked their fellow townsfolk to quickly gather as many lizards as possible, and then proceeded to catapult a boot full of the tiny reptiles towards the Turks, which of course struck the general of the army squarely in the face. Assuming that the village in front of them was so infested with dragons that their offspring were falling from the sky, the general made the decision to find another route and Vinica was spared, although its still unclear if the boot was ever recovered. As impressive as this legend is, even if it were true it wouldnt be the strangest occurrence in the history of the village, which undoubtedly goes to the events of April 1919. In the confusing weeks and months that followed the cessation of fighting in the autumn of 1918, but before comprehensive Treaty of Versailles was signed in June 1919, the new national borders that would be carved out of the Austro-Hungarian Empire were not officially established. It was under these circumstances that the village of Vinica officially declared its independence and became the Republic of Vinica (or Vinika Republika), electing the 87 year-old Jure Pavelia as their president. But alas, the hard-fought independence of the good citizens of Vinica was short-lived, as they were forced to abandon their statehood and once again rejoin the newly formed Kingdom of Yugoslavia after only five days. Nowadays little remains of that glorious 72 hours of freedom, aside from a monument, the memories and souvenir T-shirts and currency that can be purchased online from the Republics own website (republika.vinica. si) - it is the 21st century after all. that weaves the thread into raw linen fabric. We witnessed several minutes of the work progress millimetre by millimetre with each pull of the creaky wooden levers, and it made us tired just watching. After seeing this, visitors will definitely have more respect for the finished pieces that are displayed in the small gallery next door, which include both strictly traditional garments, as well as more modern interpretations. The second local craft demonstrated here - egg dying - may seem downright easy in comparison, but it too takes a level of skill and patience that require years to learn. Although most people probably remember dying Easter eggs at some point in their lives, the process of making Bela Krajinas famous red and black designs takes it to a whole other level, using traditional wax applicators and homemade dye. With prior arrangements groups can experience hands-on workshops in both of these crafts, and also purchase one-of-a-kind souvenirs from the gift shop.

Kolpa River
Lahinja Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 305 65 30,
info@ric-belakrajina.si, www.belakrajina.si. Located in the heart of Bela Krajina, the Lahinja Krajinski Park is a protected area covering the first 7km of the Lahinja river in the valley just south of Dragatu. Lovers of nature, history and rural customs can easily spend the better part of a day exploring the area on foot (or a bit less by bike). The park contains several interesting archeological sites, including the remains of some of the most important Neolithic and Copper Age settlements in Slovenia, as well as a somewhat eerie prehistoric village near Pusti Gradec. Of the many ethnological points of interest in the park, the highlights for us are the Klepec mill and sawmill, which is little changed since the 17th century and quite amazingly still functions, and the tiny village of Veliki Nerajec, where friendly locals will happily show you around and likely treat you to some buckwheat potica (a local speciality). You wont be the first person impressed by the village and hospitality of the locals, as the place won a European award for countryside development in 2000. With two separate nature reserves, natural sights are the main attraction for most visitors, and the southern portion of the park has some lovely pastures and forests to walk through on the way to the source of the Lahinja near the village of Belji Vrh. The park also include a portion of the Oton upani Path, which runs from Dragatu all the way to the famous poets birth house and museum in Vinica and offers the possibility of extending your walk or ride all the way to the Kolpa. kp-kolpa.si, www.kp-kolpa.si. This traditional Bela Krajina farmstead in the village of unii, in the heart of the Kolpa Krajinski Park, is a protected cultural monument and the best preserved example of this type of architecture. The structure consists of a family home, a barn and stables that surround a large inner courtyard, which is enclosed on the fourth side by a thick stone wall and heavy wooden gate. The house dates back to the late 18th or early 19th century, but the design is much older, as it was first developed to protect against pillaging Turkish soldiers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The site is also a full-fledged ethnological museum, with rooms in the house arranged as they would have been years ago. Visitors usually come in groups with prior arrangement, so the hosts can arrange some light snacks for the end of the tour. unii is on the main road leading from Vinica to Adleii.

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Kolpa Krajinski Park Tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40, info@kp-kolpa.si, www.kp-kolpa.si. The Kolpa Krajinski Park covers the over 4300 hectares of diverse natural landscapes along the Kolpa river in the southernmost reaches of the rnomelj municipality. Stretching from the settlement of Fukovci (yes that is the actual name, and yes there is a sign you can take your photo in front of) in the east to the town of Stari Trg ob Kolpi in the west, the park includes the Veliko Bukovje hills between Adleii and Vinica as well as the eastern edges of the vast Koevje forests. Beyond simply protecting the natural heritage of the area, one of the main aims of the park is to promote and preserve the cultural heritage and traditional way of life or the local people in environmentally-friendly and sustainable ways. In addition to the various natural sights for tourists to visit, there are many well-marked cycling and hiking routes, an educational path devoted to beekeeping, an ethnological museum at okev Dvor, organised adventure tours, and of course plenty of opportunities to enjoy the warm water of the Kolpa river. First established on the initiative of the local administration in rnomelj in 1998, the park has been given further protection and support by the Slovenian state since 2006.

Most events in Bela Krajina feature traditional dancers in the regions unmistakable white costumes, photo by Toma Urh, Archive RIC ing (integral to Slovene culture) was founded here in 1969. Three Gothic churches in nearby Rosalnice are another well known sight, drawing pilgrims for centuries. Metlika was officially recognised as a town back in the 15th century, a century after the area and river Kolpa became important as the Carniolan/Croatian border. Having been originally inhabited since pre-historic times, the area of Bela Krajina then saw some tumultuous times; Ottoman raids in the 15th and 16th centuries were harsh and a fire in 1705 saw Metlika burned to the ground. It was in the 19th and early 20th centuries that the town like the whole area became notable for its craft and trade. Culturally Metlika seems like something of a mix, traditions of agriculture and crafts with an injection of modern music in terms of the arts.

okev Dvor unii, tel. +386 (0)7 356 52 40, info@

What to See in Metlika

Bela Krajina Museum & Metlika Castle Trg Svobode
4, tel. +386 (0)7 306 33 70, belokranjski.muzej@guest. arnes.si, www.belokranjski-muzej.si. First opened in 1951, the Bela Krajina Museum does an excellent job of presenting a comprehensive picture of life in the region from prehistoric times right up until the museum opened. Renovated and modernised in time for its 50th anniversary in 2001, visits to the museums permanent collection now begin with an informative 15min film called The images of Bela Krajina. Arranged for the most part chronologically, the oldest items in the collection are some rudimentary tools used in the area during the Neolithic period, while the most recent section of the permanent exhibition covers the difficult interwar years and WWII. From the latter you can learn how Bela Krajina became a free partisan territory during the last years of the war, which was a completely unique phenomenon in Europe. In other rooms a significant amount of space is dedicated to the nearly two hundred years of constant threat of invasion by the Ottoman Turks during the 15th and 16th centuries, and here is also a very interesting viticulture exhibition, showing the traditional wine growing methods and equipment from the last 200 years. The castle is also home to the Metlika tourist information centre, a temporary exhibition space and a wine cellar. Its also a popular venue for weddings and other events. Elsewhere in the region the museum manages several other cultural collections including the Kambi Gallery in Metlika, the Semi Local Museum, the rnomelj Municipal Museum and the Memorial Collection of Oton upani in Vinica.

Stari Trg ob Kolpi Set on a high ridge overlooking an

Cvitkovi Traditional Crafts Adleii 3, tel. +386

(0)7 30 70 028/+386 (0)40 730 504, nada.cvitkovic@ siol.net. In the village of Adleii, about 13km southeast of rnomelj, you can view two nearly extinct traditional local crafts still being produced not only in the very same house, but by the very same woman: Nada Cvitkovi. Although the traditional linen clothing is one of the most important and recognisable symbols of the Bela Krajina region, Ms Cvitkovi is currently one of only two local women who still produce the material using completely traditional methods. If this seems strange, the reason is simple, its an incredibly painstaking and labour-intensive process. While the process of harvesting, drying and transforming the flax into spools of useable linen threads is understandably time-consuming, the real effort comes in the skill and strength it takes to operate the massive centuries-old loom

especially windy and picturesque stretch of the Kolpa River Valley, we were amazed to hear that the charming little village of Stari Trg had never received first place in any of Europes most beautiful village competitions. One long street lined with well-kept single floor houses comes to an end at the massive Church of St Josephs sitting at the highest point on the ridge. Nowadays home to just over 100 inhabitants, for centuries Stari Trg was an important market town (the name literally means old square in Slovene) and religious centre. Its primary school is also still a great source of pride, with roots going all the way back to 1820 its one of the oldest in Slovenia, and was long known to produce some of the countrys best chess players.

Metlika
One of Bela Krajinas three main towns, Metlika has a population of around 3500 (with 8500 or so in the whole municipality) and several interesting attractions for visitors aside from the picturesque town itself. The riverside castle will likely be one of the first draws, housing the regional museum. Firefighting enthusiasts will undoubtedly be fulfilled on a trip to Metlika as well, as the national museum of firefight-

See how Bela Krajinas traditional Easter eggs are made and then give it a try yourself, photo by YMB

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Kolpa River
Vinska Vigred
www.vinskavigred.com. In a region known for its wine, the Vinska Vigred festival is the largest wine event in Bela Krajina, attracting thousands visitors to Metlikas old town over three days during the third weekend in May each year. First held more than 30 years ago, the event began strictly as a wine fair for exhibiting and tasting local wines, but it has since grown into a multi-faceted cultural festival as well. Nowadays the festival boasts three separate stages for music, folklore and other performances, and various smaller stands presenting traditional handicrafts, artistic products and of course lots and lots of wine - there are over 300 different types, so if you plan to try them all, youd better pace yourself! One thing visitors need not worry about is drinking up an appetite, as there is also lots of tasty food on hand, including roasted lamb, suckling pigs and of course plenty of freshly baked Belokranjska pogaa flat bread. need arose - paying back the latter with a steep 50% interest the following harvest. A novel system of keeping track of the accounts using long wooden sticks with lines carved into them was devised. Extra wine from the cellar was also sold, with all the proceeds going to things such as maintain pathways, renovating the town church and paying for funerals. Due to the accounting involved the cellar is often referred to the towns Wine Bank. Visits to the cellar can be arranged in advance.

Kolpa River
Rafting on the Kolpa
Rafting or canoeing (or travelling in any other water-born vessel for that matter) down the Kolpa river during the summer is just about one of the most enjoyable ways to spend a day anywhere in Slovenia. Whitewater rafting this is not, so adrenaline junkies may wish to look elsewhere, but for the rest of us a slow trip along the water allows ample time for appreciating the surrounding environment and stopping at various points to swim, visit attractions, have a picnic or explore. The upper sections of the river keep a slightly less meandering pace and the water is a few degrees cooler than the 30C or more it can reach further downstream. There are over 50 dams along the route that do provide a bit of excitement, but the key word on a Kolpa rafting trip is relaxation. To arrange a trip you can contact one of the agencies below directly, or call or email one of the local tourist informations centres and they can help with all the arrangements as well as providing recommendations for what may best suit you. ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 518 536/+386 (0)51 205 159, info@kolpa-adventures.com, www.kolpaadventures.com. Kolpa Raft Laze Pr Predgradu 1a, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 426 110/+386 (0)1 8943 754, skender@kolparaft.com, www.kolparaft.com. Kolpa Rafting (Alen Klari s.p.) Potok 4, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 806 355, raftingkolpa@gmail.com, www.raftingkolpa.com. Stari Pod Jankovi Gorenjci Pri Adleiih 15, Adleii, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 315/+386 (0)41 880 330, kolpas@siol.net, www.kolpas.si. rnina and a white called Belokranjec - both of which are protected and certified by the Ministry of Agriculture under the PTP label - the cooperative produces a wide variety of more than a dozen regular wines, as well as a selection of special vintages such as extra sweet ice and dry grape wines. While the red Metlika rnina is produced from a combination of Blue Franconian (60%) and the autochthonous Zametna rnina (30%) grape varieties, the majority of wines here are actually white. Tastings and tours of the facilities can be arranged in advance for groups of up to 55 people.

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The numerous dams along the Kolpa river used to provide power for mills, but now mainly provide excitement for rafters, photo by YMB is actually true, the exterior of the plane has recently been restored, and looks as if it could still take flight if the moment called for it. The real mystery for us is not the status or history of the mighty flying machine, but the fact that no one seems to know how or why the nearby village of Otok (meaning island in Slovene) got its name.

Kambi Gallery Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 51, tel. +386 (0)7 305 8332, belokranjski-muzej@guest.arnes. si. The namesake of this gallery happens to be a collector, whose birthhouse it is now housed in. Vinko Kambi (19202001), a doctor, professor and Dean of the Faculty of Medicine in Ljubljana, and Vilma Bukovec Kambi, his wife and opera singer, were something of conoisseurs of Slovene impressionists and aggregated names such as Kos, Kregar, Pavlovec, Perko and Poganik. To be found on the ground floor and in the attic, respectively, are the temporary exhibitions of works by lesser known artists and the memorial of the collectors and former proprietors. Being managed by the Bela Krajina Museum and owned by the Municipality of Metlika, Kambi is well-run and a pleasure to experience as a visitor. Otoks DC-3 If youre driving from Metlika to rnomelj and
see something out of the corner of your eye to the left beyond golden wheat fields, rest assured that youre not hallucinating, that is in fact an actual WWII-era Douglas DC-3 - or to be more precise, its technically a modified DC-3 that was referred to as a C-47 Skytrain or Dakota. What is the plane doing in this otherwise normal-looking field? Decommissioned by the Yugoslav National Army in the years following the war, it was placed here to commemorate all of the American and British soldiers who used such planes to fly wounded partisan fighters from a makeshift airport in the liberated territory of Bela Krajina to Allied hospitals in Italy. Rumour has it that when the plane was first set here, it contained all of its original equipment, which then slowly disappeared over the years. Regardless of whether or not this

Slovenian Firefighters Museum Trg Svobode 5,

Tri Fare Pilgrimage in Rosalnice Tel. +386 (0)7 305 83 31. A prominant pilgrimage site, Rosalnices three Gothic churches have been suggested to date from perhaps the 12th century (on account of Valvasor and others). Situated in the northeastern part of the village of Rosalnice (near Metlika), the site is ringed by a high wall. The northern of the three, The Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, is the largest and probably earliest although specific dates are debated. It also has one of the oldest pipe organs in Slovenia and some unique frescoes. Building features of the central, Ecce Homo (Behold the Man) Church, suggest it dates from the late 15th or early 16th century, and elements were added including a prominant belfry in the 17th century. The southern church is that of Our Lady of Lourdes, Valvasor being the first to mention it in 1689, although grafitti recently found suggests the construction is much older. The historical timeline of the churches is long and complex, but as a pilgrim site its height of significance seems to be in the 18-19th centuries, when those of both Catholic and Orthodox faith congregated here. Guided tours of the churches can be arranged. Entrance is free of charge. Vinomer Birch Trees Although Bela Krajinas famous birch trees are not as abundant as they were centuries ago, when the region was given its name in part because of the vast white forests that grew here, there are still areas covered with them. The most popular spot to view the trees (called breza in Slovene) is along the road between Metlika and Draii, where the sight of the thin white trunks is made all the more intense by the sea of pillowy green ferns that blanket the entire area. These can grow as high as 2m, but when theyre cut in the late summer each year it looks almost like a golf course. The forest is part of Metlikas protected Natura 2000 site, and is also several interesting plant and animal species including Ural Owl. Vinska Klet Metlika Cesta XV. Brigade 2, tel. +386 (0)7 363 7000, info@kz-metlika.si, www.kz-metlika.si. One of the images most strongly associated with Metlika, and indeed all of Bela Krajina, is the bottle of dry red Metlika rnina wine and its label depicting a human pyramid with three gentlemen dressed in the traditional white linen costumes of the region. A ubiquitous sight in supermarkets across the country, the wine is produced by Vinska Klet Metlika, which is part of a larger farm cooperative called Kmetijska Zadruga Metlika. Working with some 200 individual wine growers with vineyards in the sun-soaked hills of Bela Krajina, in addition to Metlika

Kolpa Adventures Srednji Radenci 2, Stari Trg

tel. +386 (0)7 305 86 97, muzej@gasilec.net, www. metlika.si. In August 1969, the doors were first opened on this museum dedicated to the historical heritage of firefighting in Slovenia. The date was chosen as it marked the 100th anniversary of the formation of Slovenias very first volunteer firefighters association right here in Metlika. Located in two separate buildings, both of which are just steps away from Metlikas castle in the heart of the old town, the vast collection is arranged chronologically. The first gallery covers the founding and development of firefighting in Slovenia with lots of well-presented pre-WWI photos from associations all over the country, as well as memorabilia and light equipment such as helmets, uniforms and medals. In the next hall a similar collection presents the years from WWI to WWII and beyond, while some old fire engines and other heavy equipment is displayed in the basement. The second building, which is to the right of the castles entrance, contains an even larger collection of fire engines and equipment, including one fire engine dating all the way back to 1836 (which at first may not even be recognisable as a fire engine), and another from 1908 that was steam-powered and built in Vienna. The museum is officially named in honour of Dr Branko Boi, who was the long-time president of the Firefighting Association of Slovenia and the driving force behind the museums establishment.

Vinska Klet Prus Krmaina 6, tel. +386 (0)41 690

A birds eye view of Metlikas compact old town, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB

Soseska Zidanica Draii Draii 41, tel. +386 (0)41 753 017/+386 (0)31 306 180, www.soseskadrasici. net. Outdating the founding of socialist Yugoslavia by nearly two centuries, the Soseska Zidanica in the village of Draii (or Neighbourhood Wine Cellar as it translates to in English) developed a community-wide system for sharing wine and raising funds for community projects at the same time. As with many great ideas, this one was born out of necessity, as it was often the case that at times of big events (namely weddings) individual families did not have a large enough supply of their own wine to meet the demands of thirsty guests. Thus is was agreed that a communal wine cellar should be established, from which every member was free to make deposits when they had extra wine and take withdrawals if the eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

The sun-soaked hills around Bela Krajina provide the perfect climate for producing award-winning wine, photo by YMB

112/+386 (0)7 30 59 098, info@vinaprus.si, www.vinaprus.si. If you follow the road past Draii to the even smaller village of Krmaina just before the Croatian border, youll find one of the most decorated wine producers in all of Slovenia: Vinska Klet Prus. Of the numerous awards that the vineyard has won over the past decade and a half (including several Decanters), the passionate and excitable owner Joef Prus is most proud of the all-around Best Slovene Winemaker award he has taken home for the past three years (2009-2011) and counting. Awarded at the prestigious Gornja Radgona Wine Fair, the prize is given not for a single wine, but is based on the aggregate scores received by a producers entire selection. Although all of wine here is indeed of the highest quality, thanks to the vineyards position at the top of some of Bela Krajinas highest, sunniest hills, the speciality of the winery is undoubtedly sweet whites, namely Rumeni Mukat, as well as even sweeter late harvest and ice wines, which are frequently included by the State Protocol Services during formal events at Brdo pri Kranju. The wine cellar and production facilities were completely rebuilt in 2009, and can now accommodate tastings of up to 60 people or more.

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Kolpa River
Semi
Semi is something like a little brother to Bela Krajinas two older, larger and much more well-known municipalities, Metlika and rnomelj. However, the town does have a surprise or two up its sleeve for visitors, including the fact that while it has less than half the population of Metlika, its actually some 30% larger in size. And although Semi is also the only municipality included in the Kolpa river region that the Kolpa river doesnt flow through (at its nearest point its just over 2km away), it is an inseparable part of the destination. The western two-thirds of Semis area is comprised of the sparsely inhabited forests of the Koevje Rog mountains, while much of the rest is made up of fertile hills and fields that are ideal for vineyards and have been put to good use for such purposes. The Church of St Stephan, which was likely built in the 12th century, is the dominant feature of the towns appearance, set on a small square of the same name and rising above everything else. Meanwhile the newly built cultural centre and library have become the main focal point of cultural life for locals, and with its modern design the building definitely stands out from its surroundings. Outside of the town itself, the main sights include the powerful karst spring that is the source of the Krupa river, the ruins of Smuk castle on a hill overlooking the valley, the peak of Mirna Gora (the highest mountain in the region) and of course the many vineyards that can be found in all directions.

Kolpa River
Semika Ohcet
In the town of Semi the most festive day of the year is not a religious holiday, Slovenias independence day or New Years Eve - its a Saturday in July when multiple young couples participate in a traditional wedding celebration. Semika Ohcet, which means Semi wedding, is also the name of a well-known folklore group that is the main attraction at the event. Founded in 1945, the group has frequently performed throughout Bela Krajina, Slovenia, the former Yugoslavia and elsewhere in Europe for over 60 years. Other folklore groups also perform, and local cottage industries, handicrafts and traditional cuisine are presented. Traditional weddings had all but died out in Bela Krajina by the 1990s, so the first Semika Ohcet was organised in 1995 in order to preserve and promote the regions cultural heritage.

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Kostelska Rakija
Located on the steep hilly terrain between the Koevje highlands and Kolpa river, Kostel is covered in thick dark forests with that are home to almost as many bears as humans. As mystical as it all appears, living in such a rugged land is not easy, and the inhabitants here need something a little stronger than beer or wine to take the edge off - or at least this is what we assume, since one of the regions main agricultural products is Kostelska Rakija. This fruit-based schnapps is made primarily from apples (jabolkovo) and pears (hrukovo), but also from plums (slivovka) and mixed fruit (sadjevec), and is an officially protected spirit and a registered trademark of the Tourist and Sport Association of Kostel. This means that if you see the label you are not only assured that its of the highest quality, but was also produced using traditional methods. Quality is strictly controlled by a special commission of professional rakija tasters - which is surely one of the best jobs in Slovenia! - who assess the fiery spirit in terms of taste, fragrance, colour and clarity. The samples that score less than 15 out of a possible 20 points are deemed unworthy of the official label (although we assume they dont go to waste). At the tourist office in Kostel and other info points around the region you can find a free catalogue that describes the distillation process in details and also presents more information about some the indigenous fruit that is used. Of course the best way to find out more about Kostelska Rakija is to visit one of the local distilleries and try it for yourself!

The Orchard of Dr Derganc In the past nearly every

What to See in Semi

The Source of the Krupa River When it comes to springs,
you never know what youre going to get. While a bubbling puddle in the middle of a field or a trickle of water coming out of rock have every right to call themselves springs, these lesser phenomena dont do much to impress visitors. On the other hand, the karst spring a few kilometres south of Semi is a spring of the first order. With a 30m high cliff of colourful tectonic layers serving as a backdrop and reflecting in the water, it is one of the of the most beautiful sights in the region, and if youre here on a Saturday you can expect to see newlyweds having their photo taken. Despite its placid outward appearance, beneath the turquoise waters an average of 1000 litres of water per second is gushing out from a vast network of subterranean waterways, feeding the Krupa for its short journey to the Lahinja river. The spring is also home to the infamous creature known as the human fish (or more properly the proteus anguinus) as well as a rare type of cave mussel, and the area around the spring and the entire 2.5km length of the Krupa river were designated a protected natural monument in 1997.

homestead in the region of Bela Krajina was surrounded by orchards, which not only provided fresh fruit for the inhabitants, but also protected them from the scorching sun in the summer and cold winds in the winter, and prevented the soil on steeper terrain from eroding. While nowadays there are not as many orchards as there used to be, in 1983 a local doctor by the name of Viktor Derganc donated his carefully tended land to the Paraplegic Association of Slovenia, so that it could be used as a place of relaxation and well-being for guests. In 2010, the property in Semi was opened as a learning garden to further encourage an awareness of fruit growing and the regions agricultural traditions in general. Visitors can see apple, pear, peach, apricot, cherry, prune and walnut trees, as well as specimens hazel, elder, medlar and quince. A bust of the good doctor is found near the information board outside, while the Paraplegic Association has also set up an exhibition of paintings and handicrafts inside.

The source of the Krupa river in Semi, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB

What to See in Koevje

unexpected side benefits of industry, Koevje lake was inadvertantly formed after the closure of a coal mine here in the late 1970s. The stream water formerly used for washing the coal flooded the mine site, thus creating a thriving ecosystem and highly appreciated recreation site. Sixty-four species of bird nest here (15 of which are on the red endangered list), on migration paths spanning northern Europe to Africa, there are 15 species of dragonfly and the lakes banks are bestowed with lush flora. Summertime sees swimming, winter ice skating (providing theres sufficient ice) and theres even a 3km educational trail with information boards.

Koevje Lake One of the little talked about and perhaps

Koevje
The largest municipality in all of Slovenia by area, covering a total of 564 km2 with some 17,000 inhabitants, Koevje is one of the most preserved natural parts of Slovenia and all of central Europe, with 90% of the landscape covered by forests. For those wishing to explore this pristine natural environment, much of the area is marked with various hiking trails and natural learning paths, as well as cycling routes, which lead through nature preserves, virgin forests, Karst caves, viewing points and a hidden animal world - the latter most notably including the largest population of Slovenias famous brown bear. But as the true jewel of the Koevje region is the Kolpa river at its southernmost end, twisting and turning through the lush green forested hills. The town of Koevje, is the administrative, economic and cultural centre of the municipality. Originally built up by German speakers in the 14th century, this sleepy provincial capital has a unique history and makes a pleasant base for exploring the surrounding area. Secessionist architecture gives the town a slightly regal appearance, with various old villas lining the main road, while the most impressive building is the neo-Romanesque parish church of St Jernej dating from the turn of the 20th century, whose twin bell towers also serve as good point of reference. The town boasts several good restaurants and a casino, while there is plenty to see and do nearby, including a thriving lake, pond and restored well and of course miles upon miles of forest.

Pond in Jelenja Vas Worth a look if youre charmed by

quaint rural villages and/or youre looking for some natural swimming during the summer heat. In the old days village women would do their washing at the banks of the lake, the children would swim or ice-skate depending on the season. Theres a well and pond, both restored in 2002, situated in a a karst valley just off the road from Koevje to Predgrad. After the pond you enter the village of Jelenja vas, in the centre of the valley and above the river Kolpa, along the Brezovica to Stari Trg ob Kolpi road.

Regional Museum Koevje Preernova 11, tel. +386

Tamburanje va Kostele
Taking its name from the tamburica, a long-necked lute that is a traditional musical instrument in this part of Slovenia and throughout the Balkans, the festival is much more than a mere musical event, and offers visitors a chance to experience a rich and colourful programme encompassing cultural, ethnological and ecological activities, as well as sports competitions. In addition to a souvenir and local handicrafts market and various performances that are entertaining for the whole family, the highlights for us include the traditional costume parade and the big party (Kostevska Veselica) that brings the event to a close. The Tamburanje va Kostele is held in Kostel each summer around 15 August.

(0)1 895 03 03/+386 (0)51 26 99 72, fax +386 (0)1 895 03 05, muzej@pmk-kocevje.si, www.pmk-kocevje. si. Housed in the same building where partisans convened in 1943 for the first parliament of the Slovene nation, Koevjes regional museum has presented the areas heritage since 1960. There are two permanent exhibitions: the first is a collection of Boidar Jakac drawings depicting the Koevska region and is considered important heritage of the German population who previously lived here, while the second is dedicated to Slovene nationhood and its conception, from idea to republic. Visits to the museum can be pre-arranged outside of official opening times, with German or English speaking guides provided (when arranged at least a week in advance). Q Open Mon-Fri 08:00-15:00.

Kostel
Though twice as populous as its neighbour Osilnica upriver, with less than 700 inhabitants Kostel is still one of the smallest municipalities in Slovenia. However, thanks to its famous castle - perfectly placed atop a hill overlooking one of the most picturesque stretches of the Kolpa river valley - the name Kostel is well-known throughout the country. The municipality is more than just one building

The famous birch and fern forests for which Bela Krajina was named, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB

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though, and the main built-up area here (if you can call it that) is the settlement of Fara and several other small hamlets further down the road leading to the border crossing with Croatia. The incredibly rugged karst landscape is perfect for hikers and cyclists looking for a bit of a challenge and a lot of beautiful scenery. There are a few tourist farms to stop at for a bite, and lots of natural attractions, such as waterfalls and caves. If you stay here on a cold night, dont forget to fortify your own spirit with the locally produced spirit called Kostelska Rakija, while in the summertime the biggest day on the calendar is 15 August, when the traditional Tamburanje va Kostele ethnological festival is held.

Kolpa River
What to See in Kostel
of the most magnificent and recognisable in all of Slovenia, which is no small feat in a country that is not exactly lacking in fortified residences. Not only is Kostel the second largest castle complex in Slovenia (after Celjes Stari Grad), but its image also adorns the label of a popular Slovene brand of bottled water that is produced nearby. Built in the 13th century, the castle long-served as an important defensive outpost against frequent Turkish incursions, and dutifully withstood all but one of their attempts to capture it over a period of centuries. Nowadays the castle itself and its immediate grounds are sadly closed to the public, with the blame for this falling squarely on the shoulders of the French, who destroyed it in 1809 as punishment for a local rebellion. After a wait of nearly two centuries renovations works finally began in 1999, but this major project is still ongoing and the castles interior is currently closed for sightseeing. However, its well worth the short drive from the main road to take a closer look and experience the mightiness of the castle complex for yourself. Theres a large parking area on the left just before you reach the village Kostel, from where its a short walk to the best vantage point on the path leading up to the castle gates. A large info board has a detailed history of the castle, church and village in English.

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Osilnica
With a population of just over two million, Slovenia has managed to make local administration a true art form, so far dividing itself into an astounding 211 separate municipalities as of 2011. But even in a country so keen on creating ever smaller administrative units, only one can lay claim to the title of being the smallest - and with a total population of only 332 inhabitants, Osilnica is that one (by quite a large margin even). However, as the saying goes, good things do indeed come in small packages. Despite its size, Osilnica is notable for two primary reasons: It is the land of Peter Klepec, one of Slovenias most beloved folk heroes, and it is the place where the abranka and Kupa rivers converge to form the Kolpa. Just a couple hundred metres from the confluence is the Kova Hotel and Sport Centre, the modern family-run establishment that is the primary tourist destination in the area. While the unspoilt nature of the surrounding area and timeless images of rural life are the main object of photographers lenses, there are also no less than seven aged churches and countless chapels in the municipality,

Kostel Castle Kostels mighty castle is inarguably one

The Legend of Peter Klepec

The story of Peter Klepec is one of the most widely known folktales in Slovenia. Likely originating sometime in the 16th or 17th century, it was passed down orally from generation to generation until finally taking written form many years later. Peter Klepec was a kind, hard-working sepherd boy from a very poor family in the village of Osilnica, who struggled to make ends meet on a farm where hardly any crops would grow. Peter was not the strongest boy around, and as adolescent males tend to do (apparently even 500 years ago) Peter was the victim of some rather unpleasant bullying at the hands of the other young shepherds - being forced to do their work, serving as the butt of their jokes and even taking a beating from time to time. One hot summer day while Peter was off trying to find water for his tormentors, his flock disappeared. While he was searching for the wayward sheep he came across a beautiful young girl sleeping in a meadow. Being the kindly boy he was, Peter took the time from his desperate search to arrange some branches to provide shade for this lovely maiden during her afternoon siesta. This humble act turned out to be a decisive one, because when the girl awoke Peter found out that she was not a girl after all, but one of the mysterious mountain fairies who populate the forests here. To show her gratitude, she told Peter that she would grant him one wish, to which the boy (making the classic mistake of not wishing for more wishes!) asked simply to be strong. Despite being sceptical at first, Peter quickly discovered that he could uproot giant trees and hoist enormous boulders over his head. And the rest, as they say is history. After locating his lost flock, Peter set about wrapping up some other loose ends. First he subtly made it known to the other shepherds that theyd be doing their own work from then on. Next he removed all the rocks from his mothers garden, so plentiful crops could grow. And finally, in some versions of the story at least, he defeated all of the invading Turkish armies and saved the entire region from Ottoman rule, which surely played no small part in helping to cement his legacy as a folk hero in both Slovenia and neighbouring Croatia. In the past century or so the story has been depicted in various different artistic mediums, including countless books. The most famous version is likely France Bevks work from 1958, which includes beautiful illustrations by the noted Slovene painter Tone Kralj.

including the 17th century Church St Giles in Ribjek, which is the oldest preserved church in the entire region of the Koevje forest. Squeezed into an area of some 36km2 between the rocky Borovka Gora mountain range on one side and the Kolpa river (as well as the Schengen border with Croatia) on the other, the municipality includes various tiny settlements along the river leading to Osilnica town from the south, as well as several more hamlets and farming estates in the hills to the north, making it quite literally one of the most isolated corners of Slovenia. Until recently the easiest way to get here was to first past through Kostel and then follow the river for some 30km before the somewhat frightening monument of Peter Klepec on the left lets you know that youve finally arrived. However, in May 2012 a new road opened that goes directly over the mountains to Koevje Reka, Ribnica and on to Ljubljana, saving drivers at least 30 minutes on the trip. With some two dozen switchbacks and a change of over 700m in elevation in just a few kilometres, the road provides spectacular sweeping views of the valley below and several prime locations for impromptu picnics.

Accommodation along the Kolpa River

Hotels
Hotel Bela Krajina Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 32,
Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 305 81 23/+386 (0)40 327 49, fax +386 (0)7 363 52 81, gostinstvo-turizem@ gtm-metlika.si, www.hotel-belakrajina.si. Q 26 rooms. Hotel Kova Sela 5, Osilnica, tel. +386 (0)1 8941 508/+386 (0)41 652 048, info@kovac-kolpa.com, www.kovac-kolpa.com. Hotel Lahinja rnomelj Kolodvorska 60, tel. +386 (0)7 307 03 30/+386 (0)51 809 426, hotel.lahinja@siol. net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-lahinja-crnomelj. Hotel Pri Belokranjcu Cesta Bratstva in Enotnosti 77, Metlika, tel. +386 (0)7 30 28 444/+386 (0)41 921 694, hotel@pribelokranjcu.si, www.pribelokranjcu-vp.si. Q 11 rooms. Hotel Smuk Semi tefanov Trg 1, Semi, tel. +386 (0)7 30 677 14, hotel.smuk.semic@gmail. com, www.sloveniaholidays.com/hotel-smuk-semic. Q 8 rooms.

Svet Kolpe www.svet-kolpe.si. It is believed by some

that there is a strong bio-energy field with a spine of seven chakras running across Europe, from roots in the Greek island of Crete to the crown in Iceland. The large central Europe chakra passes directly through the Kolpa region in Slovenia and represents the solar plexus, which acts as a sort of inner sun providing life forces to the rest of Europe. In the area of the Kolpa, this perhaps difficult to imagine and impossible to see concept has been put into concrete form through the Svet Kolpe project, which has been organised by the municipality of Kostel and others in the area. To make the energy more palpable, a series of 40 white stone monoliths with special symbols carved into them have been arranged at various points throughout the Kolpa and abranka river valleys. This practice is referred to as lithopuncture, as in a manner similar to acupuncture it helps to open the energy present in the land. Even those who are sceptical of such new age beliefs may want to take the time to stop and see if they feel any different while near the stones - at worst they will get to enjoy a beautiful view. English language information boards and maps are posted at many of the sites, and brochures can be found at many tourist offices.

Apartmaji Bilpa Spodnja Bilpa 6, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, apartmaji.bilpa@gmail.com, www.apartmaji-bilpa.si. Q 5 apartments. Apartmaji Maleri Podlog 3c, Dragatu, tel. +386 (0)7 30 57 120/+386 (0)40 300 676, maleric@ turizemmaleric.si, w w w.turizemmaleric.si. Q 6 apartments. Apartmaji uster Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)41 359 073/+386 (0)7 305 51 53, www.apartmajisuster.si. Q 6 apartments. Kamp Muhvi Dol 9, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 75, peter.muhvic@gmail.com. Kamp Podzemelj Podzemelj, tel. +386 (0)7 30 69 572, gostinstvo-turizem@gtm-metlika.si, www.kamppodzemelj.si. RC Kamp Primostek Primostek 50, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 305 85 28/+386 (0) 31 652 851, info@ primostek.si, www.kampprimostek.si. Kamp aga Gorenja aga 1a, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)1 89 42 291. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Apartments

Camping

Kostels magnificent castle is the second largest castle complex in all of Slovenia, photo by Dunja Wedam, Archive STB

Domaija Lobi Grgelj 5, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 770 959/+306 (0)41 628 043, darinka.mravljak@siol. net. Domaija Raztresen Rim 16, Adleii, tel. +386 (0)7 30 70 516/+386 (0)41 736 587, rim@rim.si, www.rim.si. Gostilna Pezdirc Metlika 11, Semi, tel. +386 (0)7 356 81 21, pmmdoo@siol.net, www.gostilnapezdirc. si. Gostie Kapuin Krasinec 55, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 369 91 50, gostilna.kapusin@siol.net, www. gostilna-kapusin.si. Gostie Tri Zvezde Pri Unionu 32, Koevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 30 36, fax +386 (0)1 893 16 68, info@ trizvezde.si, www.trizvezde.si. Gostie Veronika Ljubljanska 35, Koevje, tel. +386 (0)1 89 53 017. Gostie Veseli Podzemelj 17, Gradac, tel. +386 (0)7 363 72 33/+386 (0)31 391 517, gostisce. veselic@siol.net. Gostie upani Hram Dragatu 22, Dragatu, tel. +386 (0)7 305 73 47. Kmetija Padovac Selo 3, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 338 645, kmetija-padovac@gmail.com, www.kmetijapadovac.si. Kmetija Pri Papeevih Banja Loka 19, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)41 792 816. Lukeva Domaija Vrh 1, Kostel, tel. +386 (0)31 285 723, bine.likar@amis.net, www.lukceva-domacija. si. Kmetija z Nastavitvijo ob Izviru Krupa Krupa 9, Semi, tel. +386 (0)7 306 80 12, daniela.cerjanec@volja.net, www.turisticna-kmetija-cerjanec. si. Penzion Tuek Rudnik 18, Koevje, tel. +386 (0)1 895 22 30/+386 (0)40 396 400. Turistina kmetija Majerle Dol 7, Stari Trg ob Kolpi, tel. +386 (0)1 894 36 77, info@turizem-majerle.com, www.turizem-majerle.net. Turistina Kmetija agar Damelj 11, Vinica, tel. +386 (0)7 306 44 41, info@tk-zagar.si, www.tkzagar.si. 2012/13

Tourist Farms & Guesthouses

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Solavsko Region
Where to Sleep & Eat
Logarska Dolina

Solavsko Region
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre Solava 29, tel. +386 (0)3 839 07 10, info@solcavsko.info, www. solcavsko.info. Located in the basement of the Rinka Centre, Solaskos regional tourist information centre has pretty much every piece of information you could hope to find about Where to Sleep and eat, and what to see and do in the region - with detailed material in English, Slovene and German. Just let the staff know what youre interested in, and they will gladly help you find what you need, including making arrangements and bookings with local tourist farms, guesthouses, travel agencies and tour guides for you. The premises also contain a multipurpose room (to the left of the huge wall map of the region), where you can view several films detailing different aspects of Solavskos culture and history, and view temporary art exhibitions that change every month or two. However, the most interesting attraction here is the permanent exhibition, which offers an eye-opening and comprehensive trip through the region from pre-history to the present day. Arranged in a large semi-circle, the very well-presented pathway is packed with from floor to ceiling with photographs, ethnological items and an extensive presentation of the indigenous flora and fauna from the surrounding area. Most exhibits are presented with English translations, but it well-worth having a guide come with you to give further context and more in-depth information about what youre looking at. Logarska Dolina Tourist Information Point
Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 04, info@ logarska.si, www.logarska-dolina.si. This small wooden hut opposite Hotel Plesnik is open during the summer and has much the same info, brochures and helpful advice as the main tourist information centre in Solava - although its primary focus is of course Logarska Dolina.

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584 70 06/+386 (0)70 847 639, domplanincev@ gmail.com, www.domplanincev.si. This venerable alpine mountain hut offers basic accommodation for hikers, budget travellers and others who dont mind roughing it a bit. Theres a total of 32 beds, half of which are in two large dorms on the second floor, while the rest are in smaller rooms on the first floor. All rooms have washbasins with hot and cold water, and there are shared showers and toilettes. There is also a restaurant and bar on the ground floor where hikers can fill up on tasty staples like Logar goulash, mushroom soup, buckwheat and stuffed cheese dumplings after a long day on the mountain. Q Open from 20 April to 31 October, and by prior arrangement for groups in the winter. 7 rooms (beds 15/person, 19 with breakfast). 6BKW

Dom Planincev Logarska Dolina 15a, tel. +386 (0)3

Hotel Plesnik Logarska Dolina 10, tel. +386 (0)3 839

Logarska Dolina (or the Logar Valley) is one the most beautiful, and remote, places in all of Slovenia, photo by Tomo Jeseninik While the name Solava (or Solavsko or even Logarska Dolina) is not widely known outside of Slovenia, the region is truly one of the most incredible places in the country, which of course is the reason why it was selected as an EDEN destination in 2009. In fact, if we werent contractu ally prohibited from playing favourites, it would be tempting for us to declare the Solavsko region first among equals when it comes to tourist destinations in Slovenia. Geographically isolated by the Kamnik-Savinjska Alps in the far north of the country, the area only got its first road to Ljubno and the rest of the Savinja Valley in 1894. This isolation has led Solavsko to develop at its own pace, maintain its own distinct cultural identity and extensively preserve and protect its natural heritage. Fortunately for those wishing to visit, nowadays it is a relatively short drive (ie less than 1.5hrs) from Ljubljana, Maribor and Celje - the three largest cities in Slovenia. Comprised of three roughly parallel valleys - Robanov Kot, Logarska Dolina and Matkov Kot - which are connect by a small river valley to the north that eventually becomes the Savinja river, the main town of Solava gives the region its name. Some 517 or so inhabitants are dispersed over and area of 103km2, and everyone literally knows everyone here, but dont worry about being an outsider, the close sense of community is one of the things that makes the place so friendly and welcoming for tourists. Its virtually impossible to get lost on even the smallest unsealed mountain road, because the first person you meet will know exactly where youre going (and will quite possibly be a relative of the owner!). Of the three valleys, the wide picture-perfect Logarska Dolina is the most known (so much so that even Slovenes colloquially refer to the whole region by that name), while forest-covered Matkov Kot is the narrowest and least developed, and Robanov Kot is something like the balanced middle child of the family. To the north separating Slovenia from Austria is Mount Oleva, along which runs the socalled Panoramic Road, where the best views in the entire region are found. However, in Solavsko there are amazing sights around every corner, from breathtakingly sublime landscapes to countless simple wonders that never cease to amaze visitors such as ourselves: galloping alpine horses, friendly pot-bellied pigs, tiny weather-worn chapels, centuries-old farmhouses, feisty roosters, fields exploding with flowers of every colour and so on seemingly infinitely!

23 00, fax +386 (0)3 839 23 12, info@plesnik.si, www. plesnik.si. The crme de la crme of accommodation in Solavsko, the four-star Plesnik seems almost out of place in the rustic natural setting, as it offers luxurious amenities, exquisite dining and professional service that is rarely found in the countryside. Highlights for us include the breathtaking views from the south-facing balconies, the splendid hotel terrace, and of course the heated ground-level pool and sauna facilities in the basement with a glass wall through which you can view the valley while you swim. These are free to use for guests, and various massages and other treatments are available for an extra charge. The hotel is a popular destination for business retreats and meetings, and multi-day packages for couples and families are also on offer. Additional accommodation is offered in the adjacent Villa Palenk, which has rooms of similar standards (and all important access to the pool) for slightly lower prices. Q 30 rooms (singles 65-89, doubles 130), in Villa Palenk 10 rooms (singles 49-72, doubles 98). PTHA6ILBKDCW

Arriving
Coming to the Solavsko region with your own car is really the best option. While it is possible to arrive by way of public transport - this is limited to three buses per weekday (there are none at the weekends) from Celje, which take nearly two hours and cost 6.90 each way - if youre keen on exploring all that the area has to offer, having your own vehicle is a must as the distances between the three valleys are quite far (nearly 10km from Robanov Kot to Matkov Kot) and the must-see Panoramic Road is almost 20km from start to finish. The drive from Ljubljana takes roughly 1.5 hours regard less of whether you take the most direct route (which means following the country roads through Kamnik, around Velika Planina and then up over the mountains through the tiny settlement of Podvolovljek before descending to Lue just east of Solava) or take the mo torway to the entrupert exit and then pass by Mozirje, go through Ljubno and Lue. The first option is our preferred choice as the scenery is amazing the entire drive, although large stretches of the road are not for the faint of heart and its probably best avoided altogether during icy winters or heavy rain. All accommodation provide ample parking space, and parking in Solava is free of charge, however, there is a one time fee of 7 for bringing a car into the Logar Valley (5 for motorcycles, 8 for vans and 25 for buses).

Kmeka Hia Ojstrica Logarska Dolina 13a, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 51/+386 (0)31 56 52 29, plesnik. franc@siol.net, www.logarska-ojstrica.si. Located at the busiest intersection in Logarska Dolina, with one house on either side of the street and another just up the hill, Ojstrica is the centre of the action with a restaurant open to non-guests and a bar at which youre almost guaranteed to find a local or two chatting in front of beer. The building is newly constructed with all the modern amenities, but was modelled on the traditional alpine farmhouse style. One interesting detail is the oriental-themed furnishings present throughout - these are not just kitsch, the family that runs the place spent some time living in China before returning to Solavsko to open the guesthouse. Q 7 room and 2 apartments (singles 36, doubles 58, apartments 72). TA6LBKW Planarija Logarski Kot Logarska Dolina 9, tel. +386 (0)5 995 86 92/+386 (0)41 210 017, logarski.kot@ gmail.com, www.logarski-kot.si. Formerly an alpine dairy cottage, this rustic guesthouse is tucked away in a small clearing surrounded by thick forests at the upper end of Logar Valley. Built in the 1930s, the entirely wooden structure is one of the best preserved of its kind in the area, giving it a romantic charm that more modernly equipped accommodations simply cant match, and the traditional Solavsko cuisine prepared by the lady of the house is also regarded as some of the best around. The small dining and eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

common area on the ground floor is about as cosy as they come when the fireplace is crackling on cold evenings - and weve seen this place covered in snow as late as May before, so cold evenings are a conveniently common occurrence here. Q 8 rooms with 23 beds (20-22/person). 6IL

Help feed the horses at Lenar Tourist Farm, photo by Avgust Lenar

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Solavsko Region
Other Accommodation
Apartmaji Mala Hia Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)3 584 61 80, info@malahisa.com, www.malahisa. com. Q 2 apartments (50-75). Apartma Prepadnik Robanov Kot, tel. +386 (0)31 369 529/+386 (0)31 443 282. Q 1 Apartment (50-70). Apartma Tisa Solava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 64/+386 (0)41 889 021, solcava.tisa@gmail. com. Q 1 apartment (50). Penzion Na Razpotju Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3 839 16 50, razpotje@siol.net, www. logarska-narazpotju.si. Q 10 rooms (singles 35, doubles 70). Planinski Dom Majerhold Logarska Dolina, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 24/+386 (0)41 336 864, majerhold@gmail.com, www.majerhold.si. Q 7 rooms and 2 apartments (rooms 25/person, apartments 50). Prenoia Valentina Solava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 52/+386 (0)31 870 893, valentinaspruk67@ gmail.com, www.valentina-solcavsko.si. Q 4 rooms (singles 24, doubles, triples and quads 20/person). Sobe Elizabeta Slapnik Solava, tel. +386 (0)51 256 804/+386 (0)41 690 011, ziki.slapnik50@gmail.com, www.turist-slapnik.eu. Q 8 beds (20/person). Sobe tiftar Solava, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 93/+386 (0)41 522 228, sobe.stiftar@siol.net. Q 8 beds (18/person). Turistina Kmetija Ambro-Gregorc Solava 53, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 97/+386 (0)41 705 949, rgregorc@siol.net, www.ambroz-gregorc. com. Q 9 rooms (singles 24, doubles, triples & quads 20/person). Breakfast 5. Turistina Kmetija Bevek-Oep Robanov Kot 29, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 36, bevsek.osep@siol.net, www.bevsek-osep.si. Q 6 rooms (24/person). Turistina Kmetija Juvanija Logarska Dolina 8, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 80, info@juvanija.com, www. juvanija.com. Q 4 rooms (singles 24, doubles 48). Turistina Kmetija Loekar Logarska Dolina 27, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 60, lozekar@siol.net. Q 23 beds. Open only during winter. Turistina Kmetija Majda Podoleva, tel. +386 (0)3 839 49 40/+386 (0)31 715 293, anica. klemensek@siol.net. Q 7 rooms and 1 apartment (26-28/person, apartment 50-60). Turistina Kmetija Perk Logarska Dolina 23, tel. +386 (0)3 5 847 120/+386 (0)41 282 485, krivec.neza@siol.net, www.perk.si. Q 12 beds (24/person). Turistina Kmetija Peovnik-Oep Robanov Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 56. Q 6 rooms and 4 apartments (singles 22-28, doubles 44-56, apartments 44-108). Turistina Kmetija Plesnik Logarska Dolina 13, tel. +386 (0)3 838 90 09/+386 (0)41 329 383, tkplesnik@gmail.com, www.logarska-tkplesnik.si. Q 5 rooms (singles 25, doubles 50). Turistina Kmetija Rogar Podoleva 24, tel. +386 (0)3 839 50 30/+386 (0)31 204 703, www. nad1000m.si. Q 5 rooms (singles 24-25, doubles 48-50). Turistina Kmetija Strevc-Selinik Podoleva, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 20/+386 (0)40 477 909, strevc@turizemnakmetiji.eu. Q 4 apartments (59). EDEN Slovenia
+386 (0)3 838 90 06/+386 (0)41 851 829, tk.lenar@ siol.net, www.lenar.si. A favourite amongst foreign tourists and resident expats (including ourselves), this place is almost too charming for words. Perfectly placed at the edge of the meadows in the middle of the valley, it has sweeping views in all directions, including of the orchard in front of the house where guests can enjoy there ecological homemade breakfasts and cavort with the two beautiful alpine horses that are often roaming about. Accommodation is in either the lower house, which has large newly renovated rooms and apartments, or the upper house, which is slightly more basic, but just as comfortable and offers the best views from its south-facing terraces. For those seeking the more authentic farm experience, mats are also available in a renovated hay barn during the warmer months. Easily one of the best values in the valley. Q 6 rooms and 3 apartments (singles 27-29, doubles 54-58, apartments 60-110, hay barn 12 per person). T6ILBXW

Solavsko Region
Robanov Kot may be just the thing youre looking for. Well-known for its culinary excellence, the farm has a tradition dating back over 50 years and is a popular destination for locals, weekend hikers and foreign tourists alike. Dining on the back terrace surrounded by rolling green pastures, encroaching dark forests and soaring mountains is one of the most pleasant experiences to be had in Solavsko (theres even an old mill house), but be aware that the multi-course set lunches are virtually impossible to finish. With a reputation like this, its no surprise that the recently added accommodations are every bit as splendid - the large rooms are furnished in a traditional alpine style, and theres even a small jacuzzi and sauna at guests disposal. Q 10 rooms (singles 2935, larger rooms 26-29/person). TILKDW

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Turistina Kmetija Lenar Logarska Dolina 11, tel.

Culinary specialities of Solavsko

As with all of Slovenias surprisingly diverse regions, sampling the local cuisine is one of the highlights of any trip to Solavsko. The central theme tying together the culinary specialities here is the fresh locally grown (or raised) ingredients that are used to produce them - most, if not all, of the farms are organic and/or ecological and run for generations by the same families. The dish most often cited as a regional delicacy is sirnek, which is alternatively translated as aged Solava cheese or the somewhat less-appetising ripened cottage cheese. The pungent taste may be a bit on the strong side for most people (ourselves included), but for cheese lovers its a must-try. Other, more palatable, varieties of homemade cheese are also plentiful and commonly flavoured with some kind of herbs or spices. The second-most typical food is zgornjesavinski elodec, or Upper-Savinja stomach, a succulent salami that is not only a geographically protected product, but is also featured on an official Slovenian postage stamp. Produced from the highest quality local pigs, its taste is further enriched by being cured in the pristine alpine climate. A third speciality that often makes its way onto menus is linkrofi. The close cousin of Idrjias more famous likrofi, Solavskos version of the boiled dumpling tends to be slightly larger, is almost always filled with meat (or dried pears for dessert) and serves as a side dish rather than a main course. Other staples of the regional diet include lamb and deer meat, countless homemade breads, honey from alpine bees, and various compotes, with pears being the most commonly used fruit. The best place to purchase many of these treats is from the local farmers of course, but the gift shop at the Rinka Centre has a fine selection of certified local products to take home with you as well.

Matkov Kot
tel. +386 (0)41 526 699/+386 (0)41 704 599, info@ gradisnik.si, www.gradisnik.si. Only a couple kilometres from Logarska Dolina, upon rounding the last corner before reaching the still wild and largely undeveloped Matkov Kot, youll see signs directing you to a small meadow at the bottom of the valley, which has been the ancestral home of the Gradinik family for generations. Rebuilt and expanded by the renowned family patriarch Matija Gradinik in the middle of the 19th century, the farmstead has been perfectly preserved to this day. The extra effort needed to reach Solavskos most distant valley is well worth it, as youre guaranteed a warm welcome and a relaxing stay. The farms speciality (in addition to the usual friendly service, homemade cuisine and cosy accommodation) is archery. Those interested in this most fascinating sport, can borrow a bow and arrows and get basic training. Once youve got the hang of the basics, you can try out the 3-D archery track or hunting simulation thats been set up in the nearby forest. Q 2 rooms and 2 apartments (singles 25, doubles 50, apartments 60). Breakfast 5. Archery with instruction 10/person, hunting simulation 13-15/person. T6LW +386 (0)3 584 71 16/+386 (0)41 556 752, klemen@ matk.si, www.matk.si. Situated high above the valley that shares its name, the Matk family farm extends from an altitude of 900m near the bottom of the valley all the way up to more than 2200m at the summit of Mrzla Gora (or Cold Mountain). The rooms here are of a typical modern alpine style, and theres a large play room in the attic to keep the kids busy. Most guests come here to get away from it all, and are usually keen on cycling or hiking on the mountain roads and trails that crisscross the large ecological farm, which includes four different types of autochthonous Slovenian animal breeds (the Cika cow, Jezersko-Solavsko sheep, Carniolan bee and Styrian hen). Guests are also more than welcome to join the family in their daily chores around the farm, as in these parts in widely believed that a little hard work and dirty hands will cure most ailments of the modern man. Everyone can find peace in the silence of the forests and mountains. Q 7 rooms (singles 38, doubles 56, triples 84). TLNB

Turistina Kmetija Gradinik Logarska Dolina 18,

The award-winning views of Klemenek Farm on the Panoramic Road, photo by Tomo Jeseninik

Panoramic Road
24, tel. +386 (0)3 584 71 18, kmetija.zibovt@gmail.com, www.kmetija-zibovt.si. In a place spoiled with breathtaking views like Solavsko its difficult to say that one place offers the single best vantage point, but if we were forced to do so, ibovt would get our vote (no pun intended). Set at the edge of a grassy field with panoramic views of the entire KamnikSavinja Alps spilling out in front of you, its resemblance to the most famous image from the Sound of Music is hard to ignore. An ecologically certified farm with a selection of homemade treats such as dried fruits, mountain honey, cured meats, hearty bread, sour yogurt and all kinds of cheeses our personal favourite is the wild garlic variety - gourmands will definitely want to make a stop here. However, perhaps the most unique aspect of the farm is the game room in the basement. Like none other weve ever seen, its packed with large-scale wooden games handmade by the familys youngest son, including chess, bowling and a labyrinth so difficult you could stay here a week and not master it. Q 6 rooms (singles 26-35, doubles 52-70). TLNBKW

Ekoloka Turistina Kmetija ibovt Logarska Dolina

Turistina Kmetija Matk Logarska Dolina 21, tel.

Kmetija Klemenek Logarska dolina 29, tel. +386 (0)3

838 90 24/+386 (0)41 593 715, info@na-klemencem. si, www.na-klemencem.si. Thanks to its perch at the crest of small grassy clearing of a forested hill with a panoramic backdrop of the mighty Kamink-Savinja Alps, the the nearly 600 year old Klemenek farm is almost as literally pictureperfect as they come - gracing the cover of countless Slovene and international tourism magazines. While they dont offer accommodation, busloads of tourists turn up here to sample the award-winning cuisine, visit the huge ethnological museum in the old barn or simply enjoy the views. The premises can also be rented for celebrations, team-building outings and other events, and the farm had the distinction of hosting the awards ceremony for the European Destination of Excellence in 2009. TLBK

Robanov Kot
Turistina Kmetija Govc-Vrnik Robanov Kot 34, tel. +386 (0)3 839 50 16, fax +386 (0)3 839 50 17, govc. vrsnik@siol.net, www.govc-vrsnik.com. If the more famous Logarska Dolina is too hectic for you (relatively speaking of course), then a stay in the equally beautiful but less developed eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

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photo by Tomo Jeseninik

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Solavsko Region
Potoka Zijalka Cave
Solava
tel. +386 (0)3 584 60 50, info@tk-ramsak.com, www. tk-ramsak.com. Known throughout the region for its highquality organic products, the farm has been officially certified as ecological since 1999. For overnight guests there are two double rooms in the main house and a separate apartment cottage with two bedrooms that can sleep up to five people, and lots of things for the kids to make use of, including a playground and sports equipment (table tennis, badminton, etc). During the summer, guests can also make use of a covered area with a large stone fireplace for their own picnics or BBQs. Alternatively, home-cooked local cuisine is never in short supply, and vegetarians will be glad to here that a number of non-meat dishes are among the specialities of the kitchen. Q 2 rooms and 1 apartments (singles 30, doubles 50, apartment 65). T6ILW

Solavsko Region
Pod Macesnovo Streho Robanov Kot 5, tel. +386 (0)3 838 60 00/+386 (0)41 287 742, fax +386 (0)3 838 60 01, info@pod-macesnovo-streho.si, www.apartmalogarska.si. Harmoniously combining the traditional with the modern, no expense was spared in the environmentallyfriendly design and construction of this alpine retreat. The main focus here is on the mini wellness centre, which is actually quite large by private accommodation standards. Built to resemble a cave, complete with artificial rock walls, ceilings and nooks, it boasts various saunas and treatments, even including something called a bio-spectrum chamber. However, for our money the apartments here are the real draw: bright, spacious (40-57m2) and filled with custommade furniture, theyre named after the mountain they have direct views towards. One of the apartments (Savinja) is also fully wheelchair accessible, with wide doors, an extra large bathroom and no obstructions. Q 5 apartments (21-23/ person depending on availability, 66-116/apartment). Extra cleaning charges may apply. Guests receive a 15% discount on the wellness facilities. PTAULDW

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Ekoloka Turistina Kmetija Ramak Podoleva 13,

Gostie Firt Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839

The entrance to Potoka Zijalka Cave on Mount Oleva, photo by Marko Slapnik Resembling a gaping mouth or mysterious dark eye at the base of the south-facing rocky cliffs of Mount Oleva, the Potoka Zijalka Cave is arguably the most important archeological site in all of Slovenia. Although it had long been known to locals thanks to its auspicious appearance, the 115m long cave was only first excavated in 1928 by Dr Sreko Brodar. Over a seven-year period Dr Brodar and his team discovered over 300 stone objects (80 of which were tools), 123 bone points and a mind-boggling amount of animal remains, including an estimated 1000 cave bears, as well as 39 other species of wolves, foxes, lynxes, deer, chamois, marmots and other small mammals. The artefacts date from the Upper Palaeolithic period between 40,000-30,000 years ago, and judging from what was found it was first hypothesised that the cave served as a hunting outpost - and quite an advanced one by Cro-Magnon standards, given the presence of what are thought to be some of the earliest known arrowheads. However, a more recent theory posits that the site was actually a place where early animistic rituals were carried out. This is based largely on two of the most intriguing items that were discovered: a rudimentary flute that is considered to be one of the oldest musical instruments ever discovered (its made from the lower jaw of a cave bear, with three holes bored into it) and a rare bone needle, which was threaded through the hollow of the bone rather than an eye as modern needles are. The most extensive public display of findings from the cave can be found at the regional museum in Celje, although many of them were unfortunately destroyed (along with much of the rest of the museums collection) during allied bombardment in the waning months of WWII. The Firt Museum in Solava also has a fine exhibition detailing the history of the cave and what was found during the excavations. The cave itself is open for those interested in making the steep hike up the mountain from the settlement of Podoleva at the eastern end of the Panoramic Road although its not strictly required, hiring a qualified and knowledgable guide through the tourist office in Solava is definitely recommended.

46 78, info@first-logarska.si, www.first-logarska.si. Just west of Solava proper, Firt is something of a one-stop-shop for tourists, with an in-house museum, organised hiking trail, accommodation and the towns most popular restaurant. The latter specialises in fresh river trout, but also has an interesting selection of game dishes (we can say without reservation that they serve the best chamois goulash weve ever had!) and local cuisine. The six comfortable rooms are completely furnished in light wood dcor, and guests can use the Finnish sauna, rent bikes and visit the nearby nature trail to Fidov Gaj. Q 6 rooms (singles 30-38, doubles 44-60). Lowest prices are for stays of 3 days or more. PJLBKDW

What to See
Logarska Dolina
While many people outside of Slovenia may be unfamiliar with the name Logarska Dolina, or Logar Valley, theres a good chance that theyve seen photos of it at some point: wide green meadows broken by a single winding road and several perfectly placed linden trees, thick alpine forests spilling down from the sloping mountains on either side, and the craggy Kamnik-Savinja Alps rising like a mirage in the background, often with a light dusting of snow. Based solely on aesthetics, Logarska Dolina would find itself near the top of any credible list of must-see natural sights in Europe, however, the valley is more than just a pretty face. Jointly managed since 1992 by both a locally owned tourism development company and a separate dedicated tourist association, as well as the official municipal tourism office, the entire valley is a protected natural landscape park, meaning that its preservation is painstakingly maintained, while at the same time its varied and diverse tourism offering is well-organised for guests. With new development strictly prohibited, virtually every farm in the valley now offers some form of accommodation and/ or catering services.

The Church of Our Lady of the Snows watches over Solava village, photo by Tomo Jeseninik impenetrable layers of rock, which forces it through the surface. Flowing through dark sedimentary clays gives the chilly water a blackish appearance, and the name Izvir rne in Slovene (or Black Spring). The spring has been proclaimed a natural heritage site, and a small wooden viewing platform gives visitors a better angle from which to gaze into the dark waters. Found at the beginning of the nature trail running through the valley, the spring is only a couple minutes walk from the road.

Chapel of Christ the King (Kapela Kristusa Kralja).

This large chapel is perhaps most notable for its location in the lush green meadows surrounded by a wall of trees at the entrance to Logarska Dolina than for any of its physical characteristics, but as they say in real estate the three things that matter most are location, location, location. Built at the behest of local farmers to honour the memory of the son of the good doctor uman, it was originally intended to serve as a small church, where mass could be held for residents of the valley, and the commission for the design was given to renowned Slovene architect Joe Plenik. However, these plans were never realised, and it was built in a similar style by the architect Martin Golob, which has led to some confusion amongst visitors who often mistake it for one of Pleniks own. For visits to the interior, prior arrangements need to be made with the management of the parish church in Solava. the water from the majestic Rinka Waterfall disappears deep underground, emerging several kilometres later towards the entrance of Logarska Dolina. Not far from the Juvanija Tourist Farm along the fringes of the large meadows at the very bottom of the valley, the subterranean stream encounters

Fairytale Forest Logarska Dolina 14, tel. +386 (0)3 839 16 50/+386 (0)31 249 441, razpotje@siol.net, www.logarska-narazpotju.si. If youre travelling with your family and the kids have had all the walking, hiking and/or cycling they can take, a trip to the Fairytale Forest may be in order. Located on the property of Penzion na Razpotju just about in the middle of Logarska Dolina, the themed forest trail has over 35 different stations covering an area of over 20,000 square metres. The fairy tales depicted come from both wellknown international stories as well as Slovenian folk tales, all of which include a short informative card about the story and authors, and most are made of natural locally-sourced materials. The pathway is designed for unaccompanied visits, but guides can be arranged with advance notice, which is especially useful option for non-Slovene speakers, and admission to the forest also includes a chance for the kids to pet, play with and otherwise annoy the farm animals kept in the meadow out front. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 2.50. Discounts for groups larger than 30. Logar Farm One of the only farms in the valley that is not
open to tourists, the Logar farmstead is nonetheless an interesting attraction - even if only viewed from the road. First, and most obviously, Logar is the family after which the entire valley was originally named. And second, one the main activities on this large working farm is tending a herd of Scottish highland cattle, a shaggy long-haired and horned breed of bovine that looks entirely too exotic to still exist in Europe. Be prepared to pull off the road shortly after entering the valley to let the kids have a look and snap a few photos of the strange-looking beasts.

rna Spring Shortly after crashing nearly 100m to earth,

Enjoy the cool spray at the base of the towering Rinka Waterfall, photo by YMB

Logarska Dolina Walking Trail By far the most popular walk or hike in all of Solavsko is the 7km path that runs the length of Logarska Dolina, from the wide open meadows of the lower valley to the crashing waters of 100m high Rinka Waterfall at the valleys opposite end. The walk will take a minimum of two to three hours for a return trip, but is sub2012/13

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Solavsko Region
Annual Events
Mountain Wood Festival Held each year at the end of May, the festival includes presentations of mountain forests, special trees and properties of mountain timber, demonstrations, workshops and sale of mountain wood products, as well as the promotion of special culinary dishes connected to the forests. Organised hikes and other activities in the forest are also arranged. Days of Solava This traditional ethnological event is the highlight of the annual cultural calendar in Solava. Taking place in late July, visitors can taste the homemade culinary specialities of the region, see exhibitions of local products, medicinal herbs and indigenous animals, as well as watch presentations of the most interesting sights in the area. Like all small town festivals, there is always a full programme of music concerts and other entertainment events. The Bicka Sheep Wool Festival In mid to late September, after the shepherds have brought their flocks back down from their summer grazing in the high alpine pastures, a festival dedicated to Solavskos indigenous breed of sheep is held. Activities include a demonstration sheep shearing and wool processing, workshops on the basics of producing felt and felt products, a fashion show featuring all wool clothing, traditional mountain cooking, and of course an accompanying cultural programme and lots of live music. Rinka Centre Events The Rinka Centre hosts many cultural, business and other themed events throughout the year, including art exhibitions in the multipurpose space downstairs. built in the early 1950s, during a period of reconstruction following the devastating destruction wrought in the final years of WWII, Rinka long-served as a meeting place for locals and offices for various local services before falling into disrepair in the late 1980s. The building was purchased by the city in 2007, and beautifully renovated, modernised and reopened with the help of funding from Norway. With a sheer faade of mountain wood and jagged geometrical design resembling one of the many mountain peaks that surround it, the building is a glowing testament to what can be achieved with local initiative and proper support. The basement is now home to the regions tourist information

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A perfect place for a picnic!, photo by YMB

Panoramic Road
Winding its way along the foothills of Oleva mountain at an average height of over 1200m, the Solava Panoramic Road is one of the most scenic drives in all of Slovenia. Beginning at the fields in the upper reaches of Matkov Kot in the west, the road twists and turns its way through various farmsteads and vantages points, past countless flocks of sheep and small herds of cattle, all the way to the settlement of Podoleva in the east and then back down to Solava from there - covering a total of nearly 20km. Even for those who have spent time exploring the valleys below, and have thus become used to the imposing sight of Kamnik-Savinja Alps looming overhead, the views from the panoramic road are truly a sublime sight, and its not an exaggeration to say that you feel like youre on top of the world. Other than the various vantage points and unobstructed views, highlights include the grassy meadows and homemade cheese at ibovt farm, the ethnological exhibition at Klemenek farm, the Iron Water Spring, and the picture-perfect Church of the Holy Spirit. If youre feeling even more adventurous, activities such as paragliding and hikes up to the famous Potoka Zijalka cave can also be arranged. The route is maintained and promoted by the Panorama Society (Drutvo Panorama) and even has its own website (www.nad1000m.si), which is a bit of a work in progress but already a good resource for prospective visitors.

The Rinka Centre in Solava village combines traditional materials with modern design, photo by Marko Slapnik stantially longer if you stop to take in the sights along the way. Of course the trail never strays far from the road (this is a valley after all), so the route can be as long or short as you like. The trail officially begins on the right hand side of the road opposite the Juvanija tourist farm, but most people park near the gatehouse and walk from there. The first sight you come to is rna Spring, and only a short distance further is a typical lumberjacks hut, which shows how the men from this age-old profession lived and worked in the vast forests of Solavsko. From here the trail crosses the road several times before passing by Dom Planincev (a great place for a basic but tasty and filling lunch) and arriving at still-functional charcoal pile. In the 19th century, charcoal was the main source of fuel for blacksmiths in the region, and the practice of producing it greatly altered the appearance of the valley as most of the natural beech trees were cut down. On organised trips a charcoal burner will demonstrate how it was made. As the trail continues its upwards ascent to the upper valley it cuts through thicker alpine forests and finishes at the parking lot and outdoor snack bar just below the short path that leads up to Rinka Waterfall. While on your journey through nature, remember that this is a protected park, so picking flowers, leaving any kind of rubbish or disturbing the animals is strictly prohibited.

Matkov Kot
The wildest and most preserved of Solavskos three valleys, Matkov Kot was ironically the first to have a proper road, which was built here around 1860 to con nect the region with Austria and was mainly used for the export of wood and charcoal. The road is still used and little changed (meaning largely unsealed) to this day. The bottom of the valley is completely uninhabited, while the several farmsteads here are clustered around the pastures well up the western slopes of the mountain. One of these farms is that of the Matk family, from which the valley takes its name and at 700 hectares was once one of the largest farms in all of Slovenia. Most of the visitors who come to the valley are after some serious hiking (or even more serious mountain biking), although many tourists also opt for the relatively straightforward hike all the way to the upper end of the valley. The route follows along the Jezero stream and much larger dried riverbed through which it runs. The streams rather odd name (jezero means lake in Slovene) is a reference to the giant glacial lakes that once filled much of the valley floor.

Rinka Waterfall The second highest waterfall in all of Slovenia, the Rinka plunges a total of 105m from the small river above to the pool below, with a single drop of 90m. Arguably the most impressive individual attraction in Logarska Dolina, if not the entire region, the waterfall is a must-see stop on any visit. From the parking lot at the end of the road running through the valley, a well-maintained footpath leads to the viewing area just below the falls (about a 10-minute walk slightly uphill), although the best place to take in the gushing vertical stream is from the caf that clings to a rocky crag just next to the water itself - nicknamed the Eagles Nest, refreshingly cold beers, tasty ice cream bars and generously poured glasses of schnapps can all be enjoyed on the terrace. During winter its not uncommon to see adventurous climbers scaling the icy cliff face. EDEN Slovenia

Matkov kaf Alternatively referred to as Matks tub, Matks bucket, Matks tube or simply the snow pit, this natural seasonal phenomenon in the upper reaches of Matkov Kot is one of the regions most bizarre sights. Created by the force of a 40m waterfall which appears each spring as the snow begins to melt, the falling water slowly erodes an enormous hole in the compacted snow below. Although its size varies depending upon how much snow has fallen over the winter, the hollow usually reaches a depth of some 20-30m and measures between 10-20m across - in recent years its tended to be at the lesser end of these estimates. Located at a height of nearly 1500m, its quite a long hike from the nearest parking, as cars can only go as far as the dry river bed near the beginning of the valley. The best time to visit is in early June, and local tour agencies can arrange visits here, as well as a proper climbing adventure down into the icy abyss. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Iron Spring Located at the end of a short well-kept footpath just off the Panoramic Road, the water from this underground stream or spring originates deep within the mountainside from the tectonic fault that runs along the Kamnik-Savinja Alps. Rich in iron and carbonic acid, the water has long-been thought to have healing powers by the locals who drink from it. We couldnt resist the urge ourselves, and although it tastes something like a handful of coins and has a noticeable tingly feeling, much to the surprise of the other members of our group we couldnt stop drinking the stuff, and actually ended up filling up an empty plastic bottle to take with us. The sign indicating the springs location is easy to miss if youre not familiar with the area, so keep an eye out for it after passing Klemenek Tourist Farm if youre coming from the west, there will be a small parking area on the side of the road to the right.

Solava
Rinka Centre Solava 29, tel. +386 (0)3 839 07 10,
fax +386 (0)3 839 07 11, info@solcavsko.info, www. solcavsko.info. Officially called the multipurpose centre for Solavsko development, Rinka is the geographical, administrative and tourism centre of the town of Solava. Originally A shepherd in traditional clothing poses with some indigenous Jezersko-Solava sheep, photo by Tomo Jeseninik

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Solavsko Region
centre, which in addition to the usual brochures, guides and maps, also boasts a multipurpose hall and well-arranged permanent exhibition that combines historical, natural and ethnological presentations. Looking like something out of a Scandinavian design magazine, on the ground-floor theres a bright, modern and entirely wood-covered space that includes a caf, gift shop with local crafts and agriculture products, a internet corner, and a childrens play area (complete with toy sheep and thick wool rugs). Meanwhile, the upper floors have local municipal offices and facilities for use by local businesses under the framework of a rural development incubator. provides an in-depth history of the folk medicine and medicinal plant life in the area, including the extensive research conducted by a rather peculiar local called Vid Strgar, who lived in the nearby Fidova Zijalka cave with his wife for the better part of nine years. Definitely worth visiting either before or after sampling the fine cuisine upstairs. Q Admission 1.50, children 1. Video presentation 10/group.

Solavsko Region
Traditional handicrafts of Solavsko
While the most valuable thing most visitors to Solavsko take home with them are the lasting memories of their trip, and perhaps some unbelievable photos documenting it for their friends and family back home, there are plenty of options for those whod like to purchase more tangible souvenirs or gifts. The regions traditional handicrafts are focussed on three materials: wood, wool and marble. With 88% of the region covered in forests, its no surprise that wood plays a key role in the lives of locals, from the construction and furnishing of their houses to fuel for their fireplaces to material for their crafts. More than just a natural resource, Solavskos mountain wood is believed to contain a special energy from the environment that is able to positively affect people. Mountain larch and spruce trees are the most commonly used species, as they have the perfect combination of malleability and hardness when they are cut down at the right time. The items produced range from the functional (bowls and dishes) to the entertaining (simple games) to the purely aesthetic. Sheep, or more specifically the indigenous JezerskoSolava breed that was created by cross-breeding domestic sheep to be more adapted to alpine conditions, have been a common sight in Solavsko for centuries. Lovingly referred to as Solavka, the wool they produce was long the main material used for traditional clothing, but somewhat fell out of use during the socialist era. However, there has recently been a concerted effort to promote the use of wool once again, and in particular the art of felt making. Bicka (www.bicka.si) is a locally-formed cooperative of over a dozen women, which utilises traditional felt making methods to create new and innovative products and designs. Many of their creations, such as slippers, hats and cute stuffed animals, can be seen at the Rinka Centre, and they also have a workshop and showroom nearby which can be visited with prior arrangement. For years the beautiful pink marble that is native to certain parts of Solavskos mountainous terrain has been used to create religious objects in churches, decorate the regions simple farmhouses, or for other functional construction purposes. More recently it has been used by one local craftsman in particular, Medard umet, to create decorative items like vases, small dishes and paperweights, as well as purely artistic pieces. These can also be purchased at the Rinka Centre, and visits to Mr umets workshop high above Matkov Kot on the Panoramic Road can also be arranged.

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Church of Our Lady of the Snows Of the countless churches and chapels weve visited across Slovenia over the years, Solavas Our Lady of the Snows manages to stand out from the rest. This is thanks in no small part to its remote mountain location, perched on a little hill just above the centre of Solava with a backdrop of mountains in every direction, but the church itself is also a fine specimen of Gothic architecture and its interior contains several intriguing artistic and religious elements that are well worth viewing. A church was first built here by monks from the market town of Gornji Grad in the 12th or 13th century, while the much larger church that can still be seen today was completed in 1485 after a quarter century of construction, and the neo-Gothic bell tower was added at the beginning of the 18th century. Special attention should be paid to the uppermost niche of the main altar, where the impressive sandstone statue of the Solavsko Marija stands. Often considered one of the most beautiful religious sculptures in Slovenia, this Romanesque work dates back to the middle of the 13th century. As the church has been without its own priest for some years, it is kept locked except for during Sunday morning mass, so enquire at the tourist information centre in Rinka if youd like to visit.
292, info@fidov-gaj.si, www.fidov-gaj.si. Fans of medicinal herbs and natural remedies wont want to miss a chance to visit the mystical Fida Grove and nearby Fida Zijalka cave, which was for some nine years the home to a local eccentric, doctor of folk medicines and accomplished author Vid Strgar in the second half of the 19th century. Recently renovated and opened to tourists, the relatively easy walking path to the cave passes through some beautiful little mountain meadows and forests, with an extended visit to Strgars garden of medicines, which served as the inspiration for his widely read tome of folk medicines Health of Patients (Zdravje Bolnikov), first published in 1866. Of course most interesting for most people is the visit to the small karst cave where the good doctor resided for nearly a decade. Tours take between 2 and 2.5 hours. Q Admission 4, children 2.50. Groups of more than 10 receive a slight discount.

The Needle Unless youre coming to Solavsko by way of the small mountain road leading from Austria, an even smaller partially unsealed road leading to the Koroka region or on foot over the mountains, you will have to literally pass through the eye of a needle to get here. The needle in question is a towering obelisk shaped natural rock formation along the upper Savinja river on the main road between Lue and Robanov Kot. And before you bristle at our use of the word literally, know that a hole has actually been bored into the massive rocks base leaving just enough room for vehicles to squeeze though - completing the needle imagery with an eye that even a camel could pass through (sorry, we couldnt resist). In any event, this is just about the most appropriate entrance to one of Slovenias most remote and naturally beautiful regions. Adventure Valley Lue 103, tel. +386 (0)51 606 410/+386 (0)51 606 420, info@adventurevalley.si, www.adventurevalley.si. The name of this outfit was not chosen at random, if its adventure youre looking for then these are the people to get in touch with. They offer more or less any outdoor activity that you can imagine, from the standard choices of rafting, rock climbing and mountain biking to those suitable for the most extreme adrenaline junkies, such as paragliding over mountain peaks, canyon-

Archery is only one of the many activities offered at Gradinik Farm, photo byTomo Jeseninik ing up crashing waterfalls and cycling through caves - and these are just the summer adventures. In the winter you can chose from tour skiing, ice climbing, sledding, snowshoeing and much more. Operated by a young energetic team of highly trained professionals, they even offer multi-day packages that include room, board, transport and all activities. While they are technically located in Lue just across the municipal border from Solava, their trips cover the entire Upper Savinja Valley, and are primarily focussed on the Solavsko region. Detailed info can be found on their very user-friendly English language website.

Robanov Kot

Fidov Gaj Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)41 742

Firt Museum Logarska Dolina 1a, tel. +386 (0)3 839 46 78, info@first-logarska.si, www.first-logarska.si. On the ground floor of the Firt restaurant and guesthouse just west of Solava theres fine little museum that details the discovery of and findings from the Potoka Zijalka Cave, which is considered one of the most important archeological and paleontological sites in Slovenia. A total of 18 information boards are in Slovene, with shorter explanations in English and German, and there are some interesting and self-explanatory maps of the area, charts and photos that include the most famous item from the cave: the worlds oldest needle. A 25-minute multi-vision presentation is also available, but this is currently only available in Slovene. In 2007, a separate exhibition opened at the museum, which EDEN Slovenia

The road to Solava literally passes through the eye of the Needle, photo byAndrejka Lonar Horvat

In many ways Robanov Kot is the perfect combination of Solavskos other two valleys, Logarska Dolina and Matkov Kot, as it offers the wide open meadows, photogenic farms and easy yet rewarding walking paths of the former, along with the serenity and authentic undeveloped nature of the latter. Protected as an area of natural importance since 1987, the valley takes its name from Roban farmstead, which was first written into the land registry in 1426, but likely dates back to at least the 12th century. Were not sure if this makes it one of the oldest continually operating family farms in Slovenia (or perhaps even Europe) but nine centuries and countless generations in the same family seems an impressive achievement to us. While the familys farm is not open for tourists, they do operate an alpine dairy at the far end of the valley, which also sells homemade goods and is a popular destination for hikers during the summer months. It takes about an hour to walk there from where the road becomes closed to traffic, through wild forests and pastures filled with grazing sheep and cows. From the dairy the trail very quickly climbs upwards leading to Molika Planina and further still to the beautiful Koroica plateau located at over 1800m. From mid-June to the end of the September hikers can stop here at a mountain hut to rest before attempting to reach the peak of Ojstrica at 2350m. Even for those whod rather keep their hiking on more or less horizontal ground, its well worth hiring a guide to accompany you - if for no other reason than to tell you some of the stories and fables of the acclaimed folk writer Joe Vrnik, who was born in Robanov Kot in 1900 and spent a good deal of his seventy years here writing about the true essence of rural life in Solava.

Photo byUro Acman

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Soa Valley
Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from Most na Soi) and cycle the rest of the way, if youre feel ing a little adventurous.

Soa Valley
The Walk of Peace
Ustanova Fundacija Poti Miru v Posoju
Gregoreeva 8, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 67/+386 (0)31 586 296, info@potmiru.si, www. potmiru.si. The most important sights connected with the first world war in the Soa valley have been joined together on this trail since 2007. Divided into five sec tions of varying difficulty, it begins at Log Pod Mangartom and ends at an outdoor museum on Mengore hill near Most na Soi, spanning a total of over 80km. Needless to say, there are possibilities to sleep at settlements along the way, including at the section start/end points and at a mountain hut on Kuhinja. Hikes to other nearby mountains are easy to access, and indeed the Walk of Peace itself utilises mainly existing mountain and tourist paths, itself being extra-marked. pools follows the experience. Upwards of twenty agencies in Bovec offer whitewater adventures on the Soa.

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By bus
Theres a direct bus from Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30 and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lots of international links to and from Ljubljana.

By bike
You could even rent a bike in Ljubljana (or use your own) and cycle the whole way (about 120km), if youre a very keen adventurer or crazy, or both!

What to See
The Soa River The river Soa, all 136km of it, is an
almost untouched piece of nature waiting to be discovered. At its source in Trenta the pure clear alpine water springs from a dark karst crevice, then flows rapidly towards the Adriatic sea, along the way featuring such natural beauties as deep gorges and graceful waterfalls. The bright turquoise colour of the Soa deser ves a paragraph itself. Utterly awesome just about begins to describe the thoughts that come to mind when gazing upon its splendour. The best time of year to experience its full impact is spring, when freshly melted alpine snow seeps into its tributaries. Apparently the green-blue colour is retained even as far as Friuli, northern Italy - a testament to its pure alpine origins. All manner of watersports and river-based activities begin to thrive on and around the Soa come springtime: kayaking, rafting, hydrospeed and fly-fishing for the famous Soa trout. The mystique of the Soa is still held dear by the locals who live on its banks, representing an almost spiritual presence, undoubtedly a symbol of natural perfection.

Fly Fishing on the Soa www.flyfishing.si. For

angling enthusiasts the river Soa should be some kind of Mecca, fly fishermen mandated to visit its waters at least once in their lifetime. A haven for trout, the only kind of fishing allowed here is that of the fly. Be them dry, wet, nymph or streamer, you may put your flies only on barbless hooks (just singles), but any kind of line and leader is fine. Those are not the only strict rules for fishing on the Soa, so one would be well advised to do their research in advance and have the required permits. Then get out there and catch yourself some dinner!

Mountaineering on Kanin, photo by FABobo, Archive of LTO Bovec As Slovenias first European Destination of Excellence in 2008, expectations are bound to be high, the country itself brimming with natural beauty and culture. As one transcends the winding road up from Tolmin, or descends the southside of Vri mountain pass, they become mesmerised by flashes of turquoise appearing at their side. Steal a glance or two more and you realise it is an enchanting river, none other than the Soa. Along its banks, in its catchment area, several towns and numerous villages have lain since the Slavic tribes settled here in the 6th century, the ances tors of modern day Slovenes, their luck untold. It is a beautiful valley, in the true sense of the word. Towering rocky mountains of Triglav National Park, lush green forest and that crystalline water on pure white stones. Breathtaking. It is not often said that we are in a golden age of travel. We Westerners at least, can afford to travel almost anywhere in the world and there are indeed too many things to see in one persons lifetime. However, the ease of travel within Europe at the moment is obvious. Thus the accessibility and proximity of the Soa valley for many Europeans makes it something not to miss. For those who can appreciate natural beauty, or enjoy it through outdoor activities like hiking, mountain biking, fly fishing, whitewater rafting or paragliding, its perfection. Its significance in modern history undoubtedly draws visitors too, the world wars having seen key front lines on this territory. The stories of war and the areas heritage are told through excellent indoor and outdoor museums, mountain trails and historical remains such as the medieval Klue fortress, all linked by the Walk of Peace. Culturally speaking, the self-reliant Soa valley offers stone and sand art, wax and wool products, folkloric song and dance, and the cuisine, oh the cuisine. From Tolmin and Bovec cheese to the native Soa trout, unique ompe Bovec potatoes and sweet sweet Kob arid truklji, theres plenty to discover.

Arriving
By car
From Ljubljana take the A2 motorway north towards Jesen ice, exit there for the main road to Kranjska Gora. Turn left through the centre then keep going out of the town and over the Vri mountain pass (1611m). After about 30km you will see signs for Trenta, then for Bovec, just keep going along main road 206. From Trieste take the A4 north towards Udine, keep following Udine on the A23 north, then exit at Udine. Take the main road west from Udine toward Cividale Del Friuli, stay on this road all the way to Kobarid (Slovenia). Then turn left for Bovec at the far end of the town. If you dont have your transport, take a bus first to Ljubljana.

Triglav National Park Triglav National Park, the only one of its kind in Slovenia, covers only 3% of the landmass, yet what a spectacular proportion it is. Located in the south-eastern section of the Alps, the Eastern Julian Alps stretch across much of north-western Slovenia, bordering Austria to the north and Italy to the west. The parks breathtaking landscape, including jagged peaks, expansive spruce forest, lush valleys and harmonious ecosystem has all been protected since the Alpine Conservation Park was founded back in 1924. The centrepiece and inspiration for its name is Mount Triglav, the highest in Slovenia (2864 metres). The mountain is the symbol of Slovenia (it appears in the coat of arms), and the countrys flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the day Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia. The name, Triglav, means three-headed, as it looks to have three peaks when seen from the Bohinj valley. The climb to the summit is not all that hard, but it is long. Its a two-day ascent to the top, and requires an overnight stay in a mountain cabin. In short, its a special piece of nature, well worth visiting. Watersports on the Soa Rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed, what better ways to experience the grandeur of the river Soa? On the waters themselves you can enjoy (and endure) a great little adventure, with a team of friends in a raft, a group of them in kayaks or gliding through the tourquoise liquid crystal with little more than a wetsuit. Qualified guides make sure the experience is safe, yet there should be no less sense of awe as you rush across rapids, float through dark green pools, pass huge rocks and cheer your arrival at the finishing point (Trnovo ob Soi). A customary, actually obligatory dip in one of the brisk rivers eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

By train
Trains are quite tricky. The closest they get to Bovec is Most na Soi, approximately 40km to the south. From there you could take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance.

Evening on the Soa river, photo by Dan Briki, Archive LTO Bovec

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Soa Valley
Tourist Information
TIC Bovec Trg Golobarskih rtev 8, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44/+386 (0)31 388 700, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 45, info@bovec.si, www.bovec.si.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30-17:00. During summer open every day 08:30-20:30.
04 90, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, info.kobarid@ lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Q Open 09:0016:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00. During the summer open every day from 09:00-20:00. Sights along the trail, which connects secluded spots via older footpaths, include the Alpine Botanical Garden Julijana, Trenta Museum, Great Soa Gorge. It makes for quite a full tour of the region and one which is very attractive to everyone except those averse to any kind of walking.

Soa Valley
is remembered with a small exhibition of the Soa front and other local battles. Find Klue on the main road from Bovec to Log Pod Mangartom and the Predel pass to Italy.

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Boka Waterfall Acknowledged as one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Slovenia, Boka is the enormous threshold of waters descending from the Kanin mountain range. As such, late spring happens to be the best time to visit: when the thick snow is melting, up to 100 tons of water per second falls first 106m freely, then a further 30m on an incline. It is visible from a bridge on the Kobarid-Bovec road (near aga). A rather demanding footpath from the road leads to the source of the waterfall, which takes about an hour and a half to reach.

TIC Kobarid Trg Svobode 16, tel. +386 (0)5 380

Krn Lake (Krnsko Jezero) At the end of the Lepena Valley, 16km from Bovec, lies a gem of a lake that represents the treasure at the end of a two to two and a half hour trek. The basin at the bottom of Mount Krn is almost completely filled with Krnsko jezeros waters, at 400m long and 17m deep the largest Alpine lake. At an altitude of 1340m, you can admire serene sunsets from its banks amidst the rocky Julian-Alpine peaks. The smaller shallower Duplje lake is nearby, just above it standing a newly built mountain lodge. Prestreljenik Window on Mt Kanin After alighting the
huge Kanin cable car at the final stop, theres a fair chance youll be embaking upon a trek or hike of some description, should you not be here to hit the slopes for winter sports fun. Marked routes from the last station on the cable car lead to the peak of Mt Kanin and the natural rock window formation of ten by seven and a half metres. Stunning!

TIC Tolmin Petra Skalarja 4, tel. +386 (0)5 380 04

80/+386 (0)51 600 549, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83, info@lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Q Open 09:00-16:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-13:00. During the summer open every day 09:00-20:00.

Information Point TNP Dom Trenta Na Logu v Trenti, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 30, dom-tnp.trenta@ tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si. EDEN Soa Valley Tel. +386 (0)5 38 96 444, info@ dolina-soce.si, www.dolina-soce.si.

Soa never ceases to amaze: about 7km above Bovec (near the road to Trenta), the Great Soa gorge has been carved by the meandering tourquoise waters. Now 15metres deep and 750m long, you can go and look in awe at its jagged walls and colourful, ever-flowing alpine torrent.

Great Soa Gorge (Velika Korita Soe) The river

Accommodation
Gostie Andrejc Soa 31, tel. +386 (0)5 388 95 30/+386 (0)41 33 25 20, gostisce.andrejc@ siol.net, www.andrejc.eu. Ideally located for those wishing to be IN the thick of the outdoors, rather than merely on their doorstep, this guest house of sorts lies between Mala Korita and Velika Korita (the small and large gorges) on the river Soa. In the village of Soa, in fact, Andrejc can really sell itself as an excellent base for outdoor activities, especially hiking to the Julian Alps (notably for Bavki Grintavec). The restaurant serves both local and international cuisine. TIRLBK
The Great Soa Gorge at Trenta, photo by Dan Briki, Archive LTO Bovec Trenta Valley, tel. +386 (0)1 241 09 40, uprava@pms-lj. si, www2.pms-lj.si. Slovenias natural diversity in terms of flora has been presented here since 1926. Around the time of Alpine Conservation Park planning this beautiful and peaceful place was set up, and allows you to see Central European, Illyrian and sub-mediterranean, as well as Alpine flora all together. Even if you dont really care about the scientific details of what youre looking at, or if you instantaneously forget the Latin name of the said plants, it still makes a pleasant sheltered walk for young families or elderly visitors to Slovenias Alpine region.

Bovec
Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bovec is a real green piece of Europe, a must if you really want to feel sLOVEnia! Catchy official slogans aside, Slovenias supreme summer and winter sports town really offers a lot. Lying in the magnificent upper Soa valley in northwestern Slovenia, Bovec allows you to explore all the natural beauties of Triglav National Park. The town is a great base for summer activity holidays, hiking and mountain biking on land, paragliding from the surrounding alpine peaks through the air, or rafting and kayaking on the truly awesome turquoise waters of the river Soa. The area is also extremely popular during the winter ski season. The lifts to Kanin ski centre sit only half a kilometre from the centre of Bovec, making it a popular winter sports destination as well.

Located at a small hill dense with remnants of the first world war, this open air museums aims are firmly focussed on authenticity. Visitors can also go on a guided tour led by a WWI soldier in full uniform, drink military tea from tin cups and traject a circular path running along the once AustroHungarian first line of defence, with trenches, tunnels, caves, pillboxes and reconstructed cabins.

Ravelnik Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)

unik Water Hurst (unikov Vodni Gaj) The water

Alpine Botanical Garden (Alpski Botanini Vrt)

hurst at unik combines beautiful natural scenery: several cascades and pools with healing energy properties, which are in abundance in the territory of Slovenia. The remains of an old mill, which still functioned well into the middle of the 20th century, adds a bit of ethnological interest to the trail as well.

Mangart Saddle (Mangrtsko Sedlo) In addition to

What to See in Bovec

the source of the said river down toward Bovec, winding with the emerald river and featuring several rope bridges, perfect for getting those is this picture from photoshop? shots.

The Soa Trail This marked hiking trail starts way up at

Hotel Mangart Bovec Mala vas 107, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 388 42 50, fax +386 (0)5 388 42 51, info@hotel-mangart.com, www.hotel-mangart.com. A medium-sized and luxurious residence set out of the centre of Bovec, in the middle of the valley and surrounded by natural beauty. One of a couple of hotels named after mountains in the area, the Mangart offers rooms, family rooms and suites within its traditionallly Alpine walls. Its all very fresh, new , conveniently located and accordingly popular. Q 92 beds. THLKDWhhh Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soa, tel. +386 (0)5
388 99 00/+386 (0)41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@ siol.net, www.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. On arrival you are greeted by the famous Lipice horses and friendly mountain goats. Run as a hotel and horse-riding centre and taking the form of a typical alpine village, you can find pretty much everything in this perfect blend of modern and traditional. Theres even a sauna, fitness room and conference room within the beautiful log cabins, all amid the spectacular mountainous scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q 50-69 per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh

Cycling Mangart and Bovec cheese-tasting The highest mountain road in Slovenia also happens to be one of the most scenic. You depart from Log Pod Mangartom and make your way up towards the Predel pass (Italian border), turning right for Mangart and winding up the steep final 11km. The beautiful scenery is a welcome distraction from the slog, and should you be riding in summer the numerous tunnels will bring some welcome cool. The first or last stop will be the Mangart pasture for cheese-tasting. Bovki sir (Bovec cheese) is a full flavoured and slightly spicy sheeps cheese, and the Bovec area boasts a rich heritage from the 14th century. In addition to the cheese of course, another reward for your efforts is the view of two lakes from the Magartsko Sedlo (Mangart Saddle), but of course the uphill cycling can also be at least a masochistic pleasure in itself. Klue Fortress (Trdnjava Klue) Tel. +386 (0)5 38
86 758/+386 (0)51 361 070, trdnjavakluze@gmail. com, www.kluze.net. As hilltop fortifications go, Klue is one of Slovenias most impressive. Set above the Koritnica gorge, it falls against a backdrop of the Julian Alps. As well as the immense natural virtue to be soaked up theres also the cultural; it is increasing serving as the regions centre for social, artistic and entertainment events. The first world war

being a cycling heaven, the highest mountain road in Slovenia also affords the visitor on foot abundant natural delights. The rock composition makes for a large array of mountain flora. Walking through the blossoming slopes, you may spot the friendly native Marmot, if not the two pine-green lakes. The latter, along with the high peak of Grossglockner on clear days, can be viewed from the saddle itself. On your way up a cheese-tasting at the Mangart pasture seems a great excuse for a break, with the opportunity to try the top quality Bovec cheese courtesy of a cheese-making tradition 700 years old. Your next proper break might well be the mountain hut at the top, for some warm tea, cold beer or hrana na lico (food from the spoon, for example goulash).

Tasting Bovecs famous cheese is a must, photo by Samo Vidi, Archive LTO Bovec

Performance 1313 in Klue Fortress, photo by FA Bobo, Archive LTO Bovec

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Kanin
Dvor 43, Bovec, www.boveckanin.si. Perched high above Bovec, Kanin is Slovenias only high altitude (i.e. over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the countrys longest winter season, actually running all the way from November until well into spring and the May national holidays. Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs, in 2009 Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea ski centre across the border in Italy, to make it Slovenias only transnational resort. With a good range of slopes it will appeal to everyone from complete beginners to advanced skiers and boarders. If thats not enough for you, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can also ski in a third country for two days, at the Arnoldstein centre in Austria. There are off piste opportunities at Kanin, but we wouldnt recommend this without an experienced guide. The imposing peaks of the mountain range overlook Bovec and the truly magnificent Soa Valley, with its famous emerald river. The Soa Valley was even featured in a Hollywood blockbuster, The Chronicles or Narnia. The panorama from Kanin extends all the way from the eastern Julian alps to Trieste, the mouth of the Soa River and the Adriatic sea, the proximity of which ensures a tangible mix between crisp alpine air and Mediterraneanlike warm breezes. In the spring this great combination really blossoms, when you can you can ski in the morning, then sunbathe on the snow-beach, or trek in the warm lush valley in the afternoon. It even makes skiing in a t-shirt a real possibility! Summertime attracts hikers, climbers, paragliders and mountain bikers - the latter flocking to the 4.5km long and 600m high Kanin MTB park. There are also deep shafts for cavers, the biggest of which, Vrtoglavica Jama, has the longest vertical drop in the world (603m). Kanin is reached by way of a massive cable car, ascending from 436m to 2,200m above sea level its an adventure in itself, as you can witness the vast change in flora and fauna in just a few minutes - it has to be seen to be believed. (0)5 388 60 27/+386 (0)41 473 620, gostilnasovdat@ gmail.com. If you want good hearty Slovenian and European food you dont have to walk far. Sovdat - just within view of the main square in Bovec - is a typical Slovenian restaurant, simple and friendly. If you can forgive the decoration outside (fake flowers and seaweed green cushions), the garden is a pleasant environment with a great mountain view. Fish, Wiener schnitzel and a variety of local dishes are all served here in big portions. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Thu. (4.80-16). JAB

Soa Valley
Gostilna Sovdat Trg Golobarskih rtev 24, tel. +386

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The heavenly views from Mt Kanin in the wintertime, photo by Danijel agar, Archive LTO Bovec

Bovec port Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 388 60 32/+386 (0)31 26 36 32, info@bovec-sc.si, www. bovec-sc.si. We like the open and quite spiritual director of this activity centre. He and his guides aim to offer a deeper connection and experience than that of the usual host/client relationship. A good choice for the inexperienced (and/ or terrified), they have just introduced an easier-to-control inflatable kayak to the Soa. They tell us you can become at one with nature, both on water and on land. Rafting, kayaking, canyoning, hydrospeed, hiking, mountainbiking, caving and winter packages are all available. An office is also located in Boka Pension, between Kobarid and Bovec. Hydromania Mala Vas 119, tel. +386 (0)31 80 80 75,
info@hydromania.si, www.hydromania.si. Watersports on the river Soa, especially rafting, canyoning, kayak and hydrospeed, plus they also do paintball. Based in Bovec.

Stari Kova Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386 (0)41 646 427, info@starikovac.com, www.starikovac. com. Adoreable are many a guest house and restaurant in Slovenia, and here is an example with a charming rustic atmosphere. With an interior reflecting a Blacksmiths heritage, typical local specialities such as frika (eggs, cheese, potatoes and bacon), international dishes including sea food and mixed grill are lovingly prepared. Good quality pizzas are also served, having been baked in a wood fired oven. Self catering apartments are available, but to pass up the many good culinary opportunities in Bovec, not least those at Stari Kova itself, is definitely a waste. JLBKW

Open air museum Kolovrat on the Walk of Peace in the Soa Valley, photo by Tamino Petelinek, Archive Fundacija Poti Miru guests, special functions are possible in the pub part, and the open surroundings of the hotel building itself give unobstructed views of beautiful nature, making it attractive for such events. The summertime sees the opening of a garden, the kids having the possibility to let off steam on the playground. Worth a visit least not for the free wireless internet. PTALBKW

Where to Drink in Bovec

As one would expect from a small town, its mostly restaurant based, with a couple of bars and late cafes entertaining the locals and visitors until the wee hours. Expect it to be much busier during ski season. 880 906, info@joffitours.com, www.joffitours.com. Part of the Joffitours tour agency, who organise adventure sports and accommodation in the Soa Valley, Jojo bar (pronounced yoyo by Slovenes) offers Illy coffee, sandwiches, warming drinks for winter (including teas and hot chocolate) and juices. Sports events are screened inside, or one can just enjoy the aesthetic treat of the surroundings from the Jojo bar garden. Located down the street from Bovecs main square, near the Hotel Kanin. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

Kobarid
Usually its the natural attractions that are proclaimed gems in the Soa valley, but Kobarid also goes some way to earn ing itself such a description. In what is a cosy and affable town, you can indulge in some fine dining courtesy of a Kobarid Gastronomic Circle restaurant, or launch yourself into an active holiday (with opportunities such as rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed, mountain biking, paragliding, hiking and hill walking, fly fishing). Here you can learn about a significant period of modern history, the first world war. The award winning Kobarid Museum tells the story of bloody battle, a story recounted by Ernest Hemingway in A Farewell to Arms, having been a war correspondent at Soa. The Italianicised and Germanicised versions of the name (Caporetto and Karfreit) come from periods of violent assimilation or annexation, and in fact Kobarid was almost completely destroyed by the end of WWI. After being passed around during the interwar years and falling under temporary military administration after the second world war, the town was finally returned to Slovene hands, under Yugoslavia at the time of course. From the 1960s until the present day, Kobarid has been frequented by tourists, not only because of its historical heritage but also for the natural beauties nearby, and there are other charming villages in the area, for example Vrsno and Krn, under the mighty Mt. Krn, from which a couple of notable noble locals come (Simon Gregori, poet, and Simon Rutar, historian).

Jojo Bar Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 60 10/+386 (0)41

388 93 30, dom-tnp.trenta@tnp.gov.si, www.tnp. si. The important point of reference for those hungry for information about Triglav National Park. As the full name of the Trenta lodge suggests, this place presents the natural idiosyncracies of the Julian Alps aswell as quaint ethnological and cultural heritage of the Trenta and Soa valleys. Set over several floors, the permanent exhibition first of all covers the environment, geology and hydrology of Triglav National Park. The Trenta Valley ethnological collection is to be found on the third floor, showcasing history, domestic culture and including a reconstructed typical local house, not to mention Alpine dairy farm and sheep pasture. Despite its seemingly inaccessible location (deep in the Trenta valley at Na Logu), the museum has full disabled access (wheelchair access, toilets, lift). As with many rural attractions in Slovenia, special guided tours are possible if arranged prior to arrival.

Trenta Museum and Triglav National Park Information Center (Trentarski Muzej) Tel. +386 (0)5

Soa Rafting Trg Golobarskih rtev 14, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)41 72 44 72/+386 (0)5 389 62 00, info@ socarafting.si, www.socarafting.si. One of the leading sports and adventure agencies in the area and the oldest in Bovec, Soa Rafting offers activities directed by friendly local guides and equipment rental. They are open every day, all year round - unique, so they say. In summer they organise rafting, canyoning, kayaking, caving and mountain biking, and in winter ski lessons and courses and equipment rental. Everything is photographed and available for purchase at the end of the day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 16:00 - 18:00. SocaRider Trg Golobarskih rtev 40, tel. +386 (0)41 596 104/+386 (0)41 859 941, info@socarider.com, www.socarider.com. Focussing on rafting, kayak and canyoning, Soa rider offers trips especially for families, handpicking stretches of the river safe for children as young as three. Excursions are also offered to natural jewels in the area such as Krn lake, Boka waterfall Tolminka gorge and the source of the Soa. Sport Mix Trg Golobarskih trev 18, tel. +386 (0)5
389 61 60/+386 (0)31 87 19 91, team@sportmix. si, www.sportmix.si. Full range of outdoor activities and adrenaline sports, specialised in river-based watersports. Gift certificates available, and they have a multilingual website with comprehensive price-list.

Pub Mangart Bovec Mala Vas 107, tel. +386 (0)5 388 42 50/+386 (0)40 291 751, info@hotel-mangart. com, www.hotel-mangart.com. On the ground floor of the Hotel Mangart, the pub with the same namesake, the nearby Mt. Mangart, is a pleasant place to relax or indeed dine (also being a restaurant). With space for up to ninety

Golf Bovec
Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)40 38 22 29/+386 (0)41 25 38 14, info@golfbovec.si, www. golfbovec.si. If you need to unwind a little after engaging in too many adrenaline charged adventure sports, or youre just a secret golf addict, sneak off here for a sly round. Theres a nine-hole course and driving range, with five tee-off positions, all just a few kilometres from Bovec. Prices are quite reasonable for Slovenia, especially given the setting, with weekday rounds starting at 26 for 9 holes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Sports Agencies in Bovec

Aktivni Planet & Zip Line Slovenia Trg Golobarskih
rtev 19, tel. +386 (0)40 639 433/+386 (0)31 653 417, info@aktivniplanet.si, info@ziplineslovenia.com, www.aktivniplanet.si, www.ziplineslovenia.si. All kinds of river based watersports, plus caving, offroad tours.

Where to Eat in Bovec

A few good quality eateries, you cant really go wrong with traditional Slovenian gostilnas or pizzerias here. Just watch out for hidden supplements (1-2) on the bill for bread and your table. The Alpine Botanical Garden in Trenta, photo by Tina Gerkman

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What to See in Kobarid
10, tel. +386 (0)5 389 00 00/+386 (0)41 71 40 72, fax +386 (0)5 389 00 02, info@kobariski-muzej.si, www.kobariski-muzej.si. With a wealth of information and an impressive audio-visual presentation of the events of the first world war Soka fronta (Isonzo front), the collection here won an award for Best European Museum in 1993. Two and a half years of fighting and one of the major mountain battles in history (the 12th Isonzo battle - or Caporetto breakthrough) are covered, the sorry story told with sensitivity. Perhaps the bloody Soa front is most known because of one Ernest Hemingway, whose novel A Farewell to Arms remembered the mans experiences on that very battlefield. The museum is located in the old centre of Kobarid, and tours to the battlefield itself are also available by prior arrangement.

Soa Valley
Kolovrat Open Air Museum (Muzej na Prostem)
One of a couple of open air museums dedicated to the first world war, Kolovrat was strategically important for the Italians, forming its armys third line of defence, or linea darmata. Positioned on a ridge between Slovenias Upper Soa and Italys Veneto regions, Kolovrat features a lookout and favourable panoramic views. Reach the site by heading towards Tolmin from Kobarid, turning to Livek village near Idrsko, then Livke Ravne, or take the right turn approximately 2km before Tolmin.

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Kobarid Museum (Kobariki Muzej) Gregorieva

Sports Agencies in Kobarid

Tandem Jump from Stol Of course you wont be seated
for this attraction, notwithstanding the mountains name: Stol (Chair). In fact youll be soaring through the air, sometimes for a good while. Above the slopes of Julian Alps, your view will include the Adriatic sea to the south and the prominant Central Alps to the north. The tandem jump is the ideal first paragliding experience, and theres nowhere wed rather take that plunge, or rather flight (hopefully) in Slovenia than in this valley.

Kobarid Historical Trail Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 90, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 91, info.kobarid@lto-sotocje.si, www.visit-soca.com. Something you can do yourself, or be guided around (recommended), Kobarids historical trail takes you on a magical historical tour through some of the areas important eras. Included in the places linked by the trail is the Kozjak waterfall, a 5km stretch taking you into ancient times, and a major historical period - World War One, in the Kobarid Museum. Taste the renowned local cheese, Tolminc, and learn about the pastures and cheese-making traditions here, then buy some to take home of course. Set aside three to five hours for the tour. Kozjak Waterfalls Kozjak brook comprises six waterfalls,
originating at Mt Krnica (2142m) and serving as a tributary to the Soa river. Veliki Kozjak is the largest and most impressive of the said waterfalls, representing one of the most picturesque in Slovenia. Another highlight is the vast underground hall and pristine pool, the latter we presume is very cold (we didnt swim): both are 250m lower than Veliki Kozjak. To reach the falls head towards Drenica from Kobarid, theres a turnoff just after Napoleon bridge.

X Point Trg Svobode 6, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 53

08/+386 (0)5 388 53 08, info@xpoint.si, www.xpoint. si. Being established over 15 years means that Kobarids main outdoor activity agency are fully connected when it comes to arranging your rafting, canyoning, hydrospeed, canoe, miniraft, kayaking, tandem paragliding, mountain biking, walking or climbing. Indeed, on your sporting trips or teambuilding exercises (also possible) you can be accompanied by highly experienced guides. All of the above are of course the agencys summer activies, as are picnics by the river, but in the winter they up sticks to Bovec for the ski season, dealing primarily in ski renting, service and also a ski/ snowboard school.

The Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit at Javorca, photo Janko Humar the expensive side but for good reason; cod platter, shellfish and lobster here are all memorable and exceptionally fresh. The waiting staff are attentive, reflecting their pride at being a member of the Kobarid Gastronomic Circle. A pleasant terrace is perfect for the warm summer months, and the Hotel Hvala is attached should you wish to prolong your stay. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. AUB

Memorial Church of the Holy Spirit in Javorca A

Where to Eat in Kobarid

41 20, fax +386 (0)5 389 41 29, info@hisafranko.com, www.hisafranko.com. Roundly regarded by gourmands, amateur foodies, tourists and locals alike as one of best restaurants in the country, its not uncommon for diners to make the trip to Slovenia for the express purpose of eating here - especially for neighbouring Italians, who can appreciate top quality cuisine like few others. Run by a husband and wife team, Ana is in charge of the kitchen, while Valters knowledge of Slovenian wines and cheeses is unrivalled. Set in a rustic villa outside the town of Kobarid in the far west of the country, a meal here will not soon be forgotten. Rooms are also available. Q Open Wed-Sun 12:00-15:00 (last orders at 12:30) and 19:00-23:00 (last orders at 22:00), and Tues evening in the summer. Closed Mon and Tues. PALBW

Hia Franko Staro Selo 1, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389

Tolmin
The most famous time of year in Tolmin is festival season, when for a couple of weeks in July and August the city, actually more like a town or village, is given up to thousands of revellers. Metalcamp is held on the banks of the magnificent turquoise Soa, a true (hedonistic) paradise at that time of year. However, they are by no means the only reason people come to Tolmin, the cultural and administrative centre of the region. Lying in the awesome Soa Valley, it is a great place to start your sports/adventure holiday as everything from rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, hiking and paragliding is all within easy reach. Tolmin is also culturally rich, and among other events, every September an annual festival sees teams compete to lovingly prepare the best Frika, a traditional dish of potatoes and locally-made Tolminc cheese.

wooden church and shrine the Austro-Hungarian soldiers lost in the first world war on the Tolmin battlefield, Javorca is perched above the Tolminka stream. It also happens to be the finest WWI monument in all of Slovenia, having been bequethed with the European Cultural Heritage sign in 2007. Theres that ever present Slovene scene-scape to be admired if nothing else, green hill plus church plus rocky mountain backdrop; we personally cant get enough.

Where to Eat in Tolmin

Gostilna Skrt Most na Soi 62, Most na Soi, tel. +386 (0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989, rajko.skrt@gmail. com, www.facebook.com/gostilna.Skrt. Something of a pillar of the community, Skrt (the surname of the proprietor) sits above the Soa/Idrijca confluence in the lovely village of Most Na Soi. In summer you may well find a throng of locals enjoying a drink on the terrace, but in all seasons good old Slovene hospitality can be enjoyed here. The interior is simple and rustic, maintianed with care. Serving breakfast through dinner, a standard array of Slovene and European dishes (including vegetarian options, and pancakes!) are prepared with love and accompanied by Brda wines. Located in the heart of the village, by the hand-painted sign and street map. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. JAB

Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar. restavracija@siol.net, www.kotlar.si. A hint of the sea is to be found in the Alps, specifically at Kotlar in the centre of Kobarid. A restaurant in the conventional sense of the word, theres an elegant ambience thats best enjoyed after dark. For dinner, whether it be romantic or celebratory in essence, the specialities include a mixed seafood entree, karst ham with mushrooms, grilled crab and of course the local delicacy, Kobarid truklji. After dinner some immediate relaxation may be in order; rooms with breakfast are available, as is a Turkish sauna/solarium. One of Slovenias best restaurants. PJA Restavracija Topli Val Trg Svobode 1, Kobarid, tel.
The so-called Bears Head of the Tolmin Gorges, photo by Matev Lenari +386 (0)5 389 93 00, info@hotelhvala.si, www.hotelhvala.si. Essential dining for those who love their fish, the Topli Val is one of the finest seafood restaurants in the country. On

What to See in Tolmin

Tolmin Gorges (Tolminska Korita) Tel. +386 (0)5 380 04 80, fax +386 (0)5 380 04 83, info@lto-sotocje. si, www.visit-soca.com. The spleandour of a thermal spring and confluence of two tourquoise rivers, not to mention much more, have been arranged for your average non-hiking type in the form of a secured circular trail. Although the path also takes you over the 60m Devils Bridge, we are assured the attraction is ideal for families. Perhaps it is indeed especially good for young boys with adventure in mind. Also watch out for Dantes Cave (shelter for the famous Italian poet Dante Alighieri) and the rock in the shape of a bears head. Q The starting point (parking area) can be reached from Tolmin via Zatolmin by car or on foot (2 km). The gorge is open from April-November. Admission is 4 for adults with discounts for children, pensioners, students and groups. eden-slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Italian Charnel House near Kobarid, photo by eljko Cimpri, Archive Fundacija Poti Miru

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48

Soa Valley
Where to Sleep Bovec
Hotels
Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih rtev 48, tel. +386 (0)5 388 40 00, info@hotel-alp.si, www.alp-hotel.si.Q 218 beds.
PJHAULBKDC hhh

Soa Valley
Apartma Rozi Brdo 40, tel. +386 (0)41 21 93 45, rozi. kravanja@gmail.com. Q 15 beds. Apartment Dana Kot 33, tel. +386 (0)41 23 43 87,BovecKot33@gmail.com, www.apartmadana.com. Q 15 beds. D-D ezsoa 63, tel. +386 (0)41 74 78 40, darinkavs@ gmail.com, www.apartma-dd.si. Q 3 beds. Ktren Mala Vas 53, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 88/+386
(0)41 57 93 56, marjan.komac@siol.net, www.bovec. net/apartmajiktrenc. Q 10 beds.

49

Poitnika Hiica Na Biru Gabrje 10, tel. +386 (0)51 310 365, apartma.nabiru@gmail.com, www.nabiru. si. Q 6 beds. Poitnika Hika Tinca Most na Soi 62, Most na Soi, tel. +386 (0)5 388 70 25/+386 (0)41 520 989, rajko.skrt@gmail.com, www.facebook.com/tinca. mostnasoci. Q 6 beds. Privatne Sobe ernilogar Brunov Drevored 34, tel.
+386 (0)5 388 14 03/+386 (0)31 607 234, info@sobecernilogar.si. Q 6 beds.

Domaija kvor Robidie 10, Breginj, tel. +386 (0)31 345 958, robidisce@gmail.com, robidisce.blogspot. com. Q 21 beds. Poitnika Hia Ivani Drenike Ravne 30b, tel. +386 (0)5 384 86 40/+386 (0)41 337 403, apartmaji. ivancic@siol.net, www.apartmaji-ivancic.si. Q 10 beds. onir Staro Selo 57, tel. +386 (0)5 389 30 20/+386 (0)41 686 997, zonir@siol.net, users.volja.net/zonir57. Q6 beds.

Hotel Sanje ob Soi Mala Vas 105a, tel. +386 (0)5 389

60 00/+386 (0)31 303 131, valentina@sanjeobsoci. com, www.sanjeobsoci.com. Q 55 beds.

Guest House
(0)5 388 62 14, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 69, sara.berginc@ gmail.com, www.martinov-hram.si. Q 28 beds.

Camps
Kamp Koren Drenike Ravne 33, tel. +386 (0)5 389 13 11, info@kamp-koren.si, www.kamp-koren.si.

Martinov Hram Trg Golobarskih rtev 27, tel. +386

(0)41 64 64 27, info@starikovac.com, www.starikovac. com. Q 24 beds.

Stari Kova Rupa 3, tel. +386 (0)5 388 66 99/+386

Camps
Camp Gabrje Volarje 57, tel. +386 (0)40 153 490,
info@camp-gabrje.com, www.camp-gabrje.com.

Apartments
tel. +386 (0)31 33 52 35, alpha.center@siol.net, www. apartmaji-alpha.si. Q 4 + 4 beds.

Camping
60 07/+386 (0)31 34 44 17, info@kamp-polovnik.com, www.kamp-polovnik.com. Q 5.25-8/person, tents 1-2, or caravans 3. A

Tourist Farms
Jelenov Breg Pod Matajurjem Avsa 22, tel. +386
(0)41 494 560, medves.branko@gmail.com, www. jelenov-breg-pod-matajurjem.si. Q 6 beds.

Alpha center Dvor 41a, tel./fax +386 (0)5 389 60 16,

Kamp Polovnik Ledina 8, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)5 389

Tourist Farms
(0)41 618 698, info@prikafolu.com, www.prikafolu. com. Q 20 beds.

Turistina Kmetija Pri Kafolu Prapetno 15, tel. +386

Apartmaji Bovka Hia Kot 2, tel. +386 (0)5 388 60 32/+386 (0)31 263 632, apartment@bovec-sc.si, www. bovec-sc.si. Q 6+2 beds. JW
70/+386 (0)41 88 09 06, fax +386 (0)5 389 64 71, info@joffitours.com, www.joffitours.com. Q 12 beds.

Kamp Soa Soa 8, tel. +386 (0)5 388 93 18/+386 (0)31 82 44 86, kamp.soca@siol.net. Q Camping 6 per
person, apartments 50. TLBDW

Where to Sleep Kobarid

Hotels
Hotel Hvala Trg Svobode 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 93 00, info@hotelhvala.si, www.hotelhvala.si. Q 61 beds.

Turistina Kmetija Kranjc Kose 7, tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 62/+386 (0)41 946 088, info@turizem-kranjc. si, www.turizem-kranjc.si. Q 20 beds. Turistina Kmetija Robidie Robidie 3, Breginj,
tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 8/+386 (0)41 332 668, kmetija@ robidisce.si, www.robidisce.si. Q 7 beds.

Apartmaji JOJO Rupa 7a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 64

Pension and Camp Klin Lepena 1, Soa, tel. +386 (0)5

388 95 13, kampklin@siol.net. ABKD

Apartmaji Komac Klanc 10, tel. +386 (0)5 388 62

Where to Sleep Tolmin

Apartments
Apartmaji Mengore Vole 140b, tel. +386 (0)41 427 386, info@mengore.com, mengore.com. Q 16 beds. Apartmajska Hia Blazar Volarje 48a, tel. +386 (0)31 529 946, info@blazar.si, www.blazar.si. Q 14 beds. Apartma Kavi Poljubinj 24m, tel. +386 (0)5 381 17 33/+386 (0)41 692 299, dragica.kavcic@siol.net, www.apartma-kavcic.si. Q 12 beds.

Guesthouses
Hia Franko Staro Selo 1, tel. +386 (0)5 389 41 20, info@hisafranko.com, www.hisafranko.com. Q 26 beds. Nebesa Turistine Hie Livek 39, tel. +386 (0)5 384 46 20, info@nebesa.si, www.nebesa.si. Q 8 beds. Picerija Fedrig Volarieva 11, tel. +386 (0)5 389 01 15/+386 (0)31 249 147, fedrig@t-2.net. Q 15 beds. Restavracija Kotlar Trg Svobode 11, tel. +386 (0)5 389 11 10/+386 (0)51 397 978, kotlar.restavracija@ siol.net, www.kotlar.si. Q 15 beds. Sobe pri Lovriu Drenica 22, tel. +386 (0)5 384 86
36/+386 (0)41 494 565, stanko.kurincic@volja.net, users.volja.net/lowriz. Q 11 beds.

Directory
Drutvo za prosto letenje POSOJE Dijaka 12c, Tolmin, tel. (+386) 41 966 367, kobala.info@ gmail.com, www.kobala.si. Ustanova Fundacija Poti miru v Posoju
Gregoreeva ulica 8, Kobarid, tel. (+386) 53 89 01 67/ (+386) 31 586 296, info@potmiru.si, www.potmiru.si.

07/+386 (0)41 91 02 80, apartmaji@komac.si, www. apartmaji.komac.si. Q10 beds.

80/+386 (0)41 66 32 73, mmakuc@siol.net, www. apartmaji-makuc.si. Q 5 + 2 beds.

Apartmaji Makuc Klanc 15, tel. +386 (0)5 388 67

Apartmaji Mavri Majda Dvor 61, tel. +386 (0)5 303

52 25/+386 (0)40 55 98 82, majda.mavric@siol.net, www.apartments-mavric.com. Q 8 beds. 32 91 74, apartmaji.mrakic@siol.net, www.mrakic.net.

Casino
Igralniko-Zabavini Center Aurora Staro Selo 60a, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 388 45 00, info.aurora@ hit.si, www.aurora-hitstars.si.

Apartmaji Mraki Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. +386 (0)41 Q 6 apartments 50-130, 30% more for stays of less than
3 nights. PJALW

Sports Agencies
A2rafting Volarieva 15, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)41
641 899, info@a2rafting, www.a2rafting.eu.

00/+386 (0)41 32 86 29, fax +386 (0)5 389 63 01, info@apartmajiskok.com, www.apartmajiskok.com. Q 22 beds. 06/+386 (0)31 70 61 11, fax +386 (0)5 896 20 7, pszorc@gmail.com. Q 18 beds.

Apartmaji Skok Mala Vas 111, tel. +386 (0)5 389 63

Apartments
Apartma Berginc Drenike Ravne 42, tel. +386 (0)5
389 37 08/+386 (0)31 370 133, berginc.bogdan@ yahoo.com, www.apartma-berginc.si. Q 10 beds.

Agencija Metulj Cankarjeva 8, Tolmin, tel. +386

Apartmaji Tajr Brdo 44, tel. +386 (0)5 389 62

(0)5 381 00 10/+386 (0)51 411 944, metulj@siol. net, www.agencija-metulj.com.

Conference Centres
bovec.si, www.bovec.si. Run by the Bovec tourist board, this antiquated bourgeois residence is a good alternative option for conferences, seminars or weddings. Whilst there are modern additions to ensure ones comfort, specifically a lift, bar and two conference rooms (70 or 100 delegates), the house is packed with old stories which you can pour over in the museum.

Apartma pri Koptanhu Drenica 45, tel. +386 (0)5 384 85 05/+386 (0)31 599 480, apartma.koptanh@ gmail.com, www.apartmaji-dreznica.com. Q 4 beds. Apartma-Ra Gregorieva 6c, tel. +386 (0)41 641 899, apartma-ra@siol.net, www.a2rafting.eu. Q21 beds. Apartma avli Magozd 5a, tel. +386 (0)5 389 37
07/+386 (0)41 421 007, nada.savli@siol.net, www. apartmasavli.com. Q6 beds.

Alpin Action Trnovo ob Soi 26a, Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 384 55 04/+386 (0)41 708 132, alpin.action@ siol.net, www.sloveniarafting.si.

Stergulc House Tel. +386 (0)5 389 64 44, info@

Transport
Jojo Prevozi Dvor 5, tel. +386 (0)41 880 906,
info@jojo-prevozi.com, www.jojo-prevozi.com.

Tourist Agencies
Ta Tmin Tours Trg 1. Maja 8, Tolmin, tel. +386 (0)5
381 19 93, tmintours@siol.net, www.tmintours.si.

Rafting on the Soa river, photo by Andra Krpi, Archive LTO Bovec

tel. +386 (0)5 389 13 11/+386 (0)41 371 229, info@ kamp-koren.si, www.kamp-koren.si. Q 36 beds.

Chalet Kamp Koren Kobarid Drenike Ravne 33,

EDEN Slovenia

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EDEN 2008: e Soa Valley TIC Bovec Tel.: +386 (0)5 38 96 444 E-mail: info@dolina-soce.si www.dolina-soce.si

EDEN 2009: e Solavsko region e Rinka Centre the Solava Tourist Information Centre Tel.: +386 (0)3 83 90 710 E-mail: info@solcavsko.info www.solcavsko.info

Bovec

EDEN 2010: e Kolpa River RIC Bela krajina Tel.: +386 (0)7 30 56 530 E-mail: info@ric-belakrajina.si www.kolpariver.eu

EDEN 2011: Idrija TIC Idrija Tel.: +386 (0)5 37 43 916 E-mail: ticidrija@icra.si www.idrija-turizem.si

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