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HOW TO STITCH A TOP/KURTI

A top can be worn with pants, skirts, etc. Tops come in different shapes, sizes, patterns and designs. But the basic method of stitching a top is the same. Alterations to the sleeves, neck, length, etc makes it look different. A kurti is a slightly longer top which more or less resembles a kameez and is usually worn with jeans pants, patiyalas, gatherings,etc. Construction 0 to 1 Top length 0 to 2 1/6 chest +1" 2 to 3 1/4 chest + 1" or 1 " or 1 0 to 4 half shoulder 4 to 5 1/2" 0 to 6 1/6 round neck + 1/2 0 to 7 - Back Neck depth (standard = 3) 6 to 8 - Front Neck depth (standard = 6) 0 to 9 Waist length 9 to 10- waist + 1 or 1 or 1 1 to 11- 2 to 3 measurement +2 or 3 11 to 13- 1 Join 3 to 5 through a curve passing throughd as shown. a is the midpoint of 3 and d. Take b from a and draw another curve from 3 to 5 through b andd. The inner curve through b is the front arm hole, and the outer curve through a is the back arm hole. Join 6 to 8 through a curve to get the front neck and 6 to 7 through a curve to get the back neck. Join 6 to 5 for the shoulder. Join 12 to 13 as shown. Method For stitching a top, first measure and note down the body measurements. Then take the cloth, open it in the reverse such that the two selvedges of the cloth are on top of each other. Then fold again such that the two ends are on top of each other.

Mark the measurements directly on the cloth using the construction given above (Or first make a paper draft). Then join all the lines and curves. Then leaving 1 extra cloth along the sides and bottom of the dress and extra cloth along the neck, shoulder and arm hole, cut the cloth. Remember that the front and back necks and arm holes have to be cut separately because their curves are different. Hence take care while cutting it. Most importantly the shoulder line of all the four pieces must be equal. Stitching has to be done on the marked lines and curves. First finish the neck. For this refer FINISHING THE NECK. Then cut the sleeves, double fold the ends and stitch it with the arm holes. Refer SLEEVES for its construction. Then stitch the sides and if required leave a small opening at the two sides. Refer STITCHING THE SIDES for details. Finally finish the ends by double folding the extra cloth and stitching. Your top is now ready.

HOW TO STITCH GATHERING PANTS / CHURIDHAR

A Churidhar or gathering pant is often worn with Anarkali suits or short kurtis. This type of pant can be stitched at home by following the measurements and instructions given below. Measurements needed Length: (41) Hip: (35) Waist to knee length: (22) Round knee: (14) Round ankle: (9) Approximate measurements are given in brackets just for reference. Use your body measurements for stitching the Churidhar. Material required 2 times length + 20 cms Generally 2 metres of cloth is required for stitching normal size Churidhar. If 46 or 48 width cloth is available then 2 1/4 metres is sufficient. Method First open the cloth fully and fold in the reverse as shown. Then fold it as a triangle as shown below and mark the measurements.

0 to 1 = length + 8 or 10 or 12 waist band width (8) = (41 + 10- 8= 43) 0 to 2 = 1/3 hip + 1 waist band width (8) = (11 + 1 8 = 5 ) 2 to 3 = 1/3 hip +3= (14 ) 3 to 4 = 1 4 to 5 = straight line 0 to 6 = waist to knee length waist band width (8) = (22- 8= 14) 6 to 7 = half round knee + = (7 + = 7 ) 1 to 8 = half round ankle = (4 ) (Please note that the calculations given in brackets are just for reference. Use your measurements to calculate the above.)

After marking the measurements on the cloth, draw the 3 to 8 curve making sure that it passes slightly outside the 7 measurement. Now cut the cloth leaving 1 allowance along the sides and ends as shown. Then cut pieces with required allowances according to the shape of the missing piece and stitch such that 0253 shape is complete. After cutting the two legs, we have to cut the waist band. Cut a single piece of cloth using the following measurements. 0 to 1 = waist band width (8) + 2 = 10 0 to 2 = Full hip + 6 loose = (41) 1 to 3 = Full hip + 6 loose = (41) Now for the draw string cut a thin piece of cloth using the following measurements Length = Full hip + 6 loose + 9 or 10 = (50) Breadth = 1 After the cloth is cut and ready, take the two legs and double fold and stitch at the ends. If an opening is needed at the ankle, mark 4 from the ends. From this point a start stitching along the 8 to 3 curve. The cloth below the marking a has to be double folded and stitched (just as you stitch the side opening for a kurta or kameez). After the two legs are stitched, join the two at the reverse along the 5 to 3 curves.

Next finish the waist band. Refer stitching the waist band for more details. Once the waist band is ready, it has to be stitched to the legs. Take the waist band and make small 1/8 cuts (or mark with a chalk) at a distance of 6 from the centre at b and b. The pleats on the churidhar have to be stitched between b and b. Similarly make a small cut at the centre of the back part of the waist band at a.

First start by stitching the legs to the waist band from the back from a. i.e. Start stitching the joint along the 5 to 3 curve and a and stitch for 1 distance. Then fold the cloth to form a single outward pleat of 1 and stitch. (There are only 2 pleats at the back, one on either side.) Continue stitching till you reach b (or b). Now stop here and start stitching again from a till you reach b(or b). Now with the remaining cloth on the legs, take even inward pleats and stitch it to the waist band. Make sure that the joint in the centre of the waistband coincides with the joint along the 5 to 3 curve in front. Once the pleats are done, finish the Churidhar by over locking the extra cloth on the reverse to prevent thread from coming out. Insert the draw string through the opening and stitch button or hooks at the ankle opening. Your gathering pant or Churidhar is now ready.

NORMAL SLEEVES
Construction 0 to 1 - sleeve length 0 to 2 - 1/12 chest + 2 to 3 - 1/6 chest + 1 1 to 4 - Half round arm +1/2

Method First fold twice the cloth such that you get 4 layers one on top of the other. Then mark the measurements on the cloth as shown. Join 0 to 3 through a curve as shown passing through a. b is the midpoint of a and 3. Take c 1/2 from b and draw another curve as shown. The inner curve through c is for the front arm hole and the outer curve through b is for the back arm hole. Then leaving allowance along 0 to 3 curve and 1 allowance along 3 to 4 and 1 to 4 lines, cut the cloth. Double fold the extra cloth along the 1 to 4 line and stitch. The sleeves are now ready.

LONG SLEEVES

Anarkali dresses and short kurtis usually have long sleeves. The construction, cutting and method of stitching long sleeves is given below.

Construction 0 to 1 sleeve length 0 to 2 1/12 chest +1/2 2 to 3 1/6 chest + 1 or 2 1 to 4 half round arm 0 to a elbow length a to b half round elbow

Method Take an inch tape and place 0 at the shoulder joint. Measure till you reach the wrist. This is the sleeve length. At this point measure round arm and note down the measurements. Similarly find the elbow length and round elbow. Using your measurements calculate the above and mark on the cloth. The cloth has to be

folded in the reverse as shown. Mark the measurements on the cloth and draw the curve from 3 to 4 passing through b. Cut the cloth leaving 1 allowance at the sides and wrist and allowance at the arm holes. After the sleeves are cut, draw an inner curve as shown in the front part of each sleeve and cut accordingly.

Once the sleeves are cut, double fold the extra cloth along the wrist end and stitch. The sleeves are now ready to be stitched to the Kameez or Top. Use the construction for the kameez and cut the cloth. Stitch at the shoulders and finish the neck. Attach the sleeves to the arm holes and start stitching the sides starting from the wrist end and ending at the side opening of the kameez.

HOW TO STITCH A KAMEEZ WITH COLLAR

Collars, especially the Chinese collars can be stitched on kameez and Kurtis. They are small standing collars with front opening and are usually stitched with thick materials or a stiffener is stitched so that the collar stands stiff. Chinese collars are of two types full Chinese and half Chinese. Full Chinese collar is a basic collar covering the entire neck whereas half Chinese has half collar and half normal neck. Kameez with collars are usually worn with Churidhars or gathering pants.The construction and method of stitching a kameez/ top with collar is given below.

Chinese collar Construction (Common for both full and half Chinese collar)

0 to 1 = Half Round neck (e.g. 7 ) 0 to 2 = 1 2 to 3 = collar width = e.g. 1 1 to 4 = collar width = 1 1 to 5 = Join 2 to 5, 4 to 5 and 3 to 4 as shown

Cut two pieces of cloth using the above measurements leaving 1/2 allowance on all sides except the fold. The same construction can be used for stitching both half and full Chinese collars. Place the two pieces on top of each other and stitch on the reverse along 4 to 5 and 4 to 5 and 5 to 5 line and then turn to the correct side. The cloth along 4 to 4 is attached to the neck part of the top. Full Chinese collar Full Chinese collars usually have a front opening. Construction for kameez/ top 0 to 6 = 1/6 round neck = (2 ) 0 to 7 = (Back neck) 0 to 8 = 1/6 round neck + 1= (3) Approximate measurements are given in brackets so that you may have an idea. The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.

Mostly full Chinese collars are stitched with tops with front opening. Hence if you are stitching a top with full front opening then leave 2 1/2" allowance along the 0 to 9 line for the front part of the top and using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer how to stitch a top for more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces of the top at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth of the collar and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched inside the collar. Make sure that the finishing is perfect. Once the neck part is stitched, you can double fold the extra cloth along the front opening of the top. For a fake front opening stitch the two front pieces together leaving 4" or 5" on top. The opening can be finished by double folding the cloth or stitching facing pieces of cloth. Once the neck is ready, attach the sleeves and complete stitching the kameez in the same way as that of normal kameez. Finally stitch buttons or hooks and your kameez with collar is ready. Half Chinese collar Construction for kameez/top 0 to 6 = 1/6 Round neck 0 to 7 = 6 to 8 = 6 or 7 (Front neck) The other measurements are the same as for a normal kameez.

Using the measurements cut the top leaving the required allowances. Refer how to stitch a top for more details. After cutting the top first begin by joining the front and back pieces at the shoulders and then stitch the collar part at

the neck making sure that you fold the extra cloth along 4 to 4 and stitch such that the extra cloth along the neck of the top is sandwiched between the two layers of the collar. Then finish the neck by stitching facing pieces.

FINISHING THE NECK


For finishing the neck first place the neck of the back piece on an extra cloth and draw an outline. Then remove the back piece and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. This piece is called a facing piece. Similarly place the front piece of the top on another extra cloth and draw the outline. Remove the piece and mark lines as shown and cut the piece. Now we have two facing pieces, one for the front and another for the back. Fold along the sides of both the facing pieces and give a stitch. This is done to prevent thread from coming out. These two pieces will be used to finish the neck and will not be seen as they will be stitched in the reverse side of the dress.

Stitching the pieces First place the reverse side of the facing piece on the correct side of the back piece and stitch on the line, from the end of the neck. Then make small cuts on the extra cloth. This is done to facilitate turning of the attached facing piece. Do the same thing with the front piece.

Then place the front and back pieces of the top such that their correct sides are facing each other and stitch on the reverse side over the marked line on one side of the shoulder, and continue to stitch over the two facing pieces also. Similarly stitch at the other end. Then fold the facing pieces to the reverse side and stitch

along the neck to set it in place. The neck area is now finished.

SIZE CHART 2
This is the standard size chart commonly used for stitching children's dresses.

SIZE CHART 1
The following is the size chart commonly used for stitching the basic Indian dresses.

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