Professional Documents
Culture Documents
This manual is provided to understand Fabric inspection process and requirements to deliver the highest possible quality as well as report all test results as per Customer requirements. Although this manual describes Matrix Sourcing quality requirements and we also expects its partner suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality. This culture must begin with management commitment to prevention-based and continuous improvement- based quality systems including:
Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are effective Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts Ensuring that processes are stable, capable, and centered through the application of statistical data analysis techniques Documenting systems, processes, procedures, necessary to maintain effective operations etc. as
Quality Mission Statement Create consumer loyalty and lead brand integrity through an integrated Quality Strategy.
Establish clear, consumer-focused requirements Plan for Defect-Free performance Quality happens within every Process (each supplier, department, & individual owns quality) Ensure the Process is capable of meeting the Customer requirements Control the Process Continually reduce Variation and factory Defective Rate
Design Qualification Systems and procedures where Matrixs product engineering team works with customer design/development groups to help identify and prevent failure modes in product design. Supplier Qualification Process of evaluating and approving suppliers to ensure they are capable of achieving Matrix Sourcing requirements, and include a review of suppliers quality manufacturing and management systems against our requirements and world-class benchmarks. Materials Qualification Process of testing, evaluating and approving raw material to ensure that the manufacturing process is capable of producing material that always meets World class customer specifications
Product Qualification Process of evaluating and approving finished goods to ensure that the manufacturing process is capable of producing product that always meet specifications. Metrics & Strategic Reporting Process of collecting vendor product quality performance data to track performance and set priorities for corrective action.
Open, clean and dry Well lit Inspection Frame: The frame should be equipped with a variable speed drive, a yard (or meter) counter, and an undercarriage light to see through the construction and an overhead light to inspect the face of the fabric. Inspection Speed: The frame should be capable of running up to 30 yards per minute (27 meters per minute) and should have both forward and reverse controls. Viewing Distance: The inspection should be performed from an observation distance of 2 to 4 feet (60 to 120 centimeters) so as to get full vision of the fabric width. Lighting: Overhead Customer required lighting is recommended for the inspection. The surface illumination level should be a minimum of 1075 lux (100 foot candles).
Equipment
Yard / Meter
Inspection frame should be included in vendors periodic maintenance plan. All components of equipment which can output a quantifiably value needs to be calibrated annually e.g. Speed drive/ Counter/ Weight (if scales available on frame)
The Light box must be in a closed conditioned room with no interference from outside light and it must be calibrated from time to time as recommended by its manufacturer. The walls of the room should be painted neutral gray.
Verivide CAC MacBeth Judge II MacBeth Spectra light III Datacolor TruVue
Tools
Measuring Tape Pick Glass Scissors Defect Stickers / Tags Selvedge Defect Flags Inspection Report Forms
Scissors
Defect stickers
Color Evaluation
1. Color Standard: Check the head-middle-end sample in the light box against the Customer color standard and/or Matrix Sourcing approved lab-dip under primary & secondary light source. This process should be done once for each color inspected. 2. Shading within the roll: Check for shading at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of each roll inspected, using the head-middle-end sample for comparison.
3. Color Continuity Card: Check for color consistency between the dye-lots. Cut a small sample (about 2 x 2 inches or 5 x 5 centimeters) from the left side, the center and the right side of the head-middle-end sample of each inspected dye-lot and attach to the color continuity card. Ensure that cards are labeled. Check the samples against the Customer color standard &/or Matrix Sourcing approved lab-dip. Note any significant variation of shade from roll to roll.
Aesthetics Evaluation
Inspect overall hand-feel and appearance against customer approved item swatch in development stage for cleanliness, texture, recovery, drape, resilience, wrinkling, etc.
If the aesthetics does not match the sample, Vendor will reprocess that yards or will submit to Matrix/ Customer for approval. It is the vendors responsibility to ensure that the reference sample provided to the factory is the original. This sample will be used by the factory for, hand-feel and aesthetics verification.. The reference Sample size is 12 x 12 inches (30 x 30 centimeters) cut out from the approved batch. This reference sample must be properly stored for use in quality comparison. Keep a clean sample folder with appropriate information such as vendor
name, item number, color name/code, date, batch number, and any other relevant information.
Visual Inspection
Once the color and aesthetics have been checked and approved, begin the visual inspection for defects. Defects which are not desirable and are clearly detectable on the inspection frame will be assigned points as shown in the Four Point Table. The Four Point system will be applied to all fabrics, i.e. woven, circular knit and warp knit. Always inspect the side which will be used as the face in the finished garment. Mount the roll on the inspection frame with the face side up.
Fabric Width Measure the fabric width at the beginning, in the middle, and at the end of every roll. If a variation in fabric width is found, the vendor will contact Matrix Sourcing to determine if the fabric is usable and if a replacement is necessary. At this point, the inspector should also check the condition of the selvedges. The selvedges should as per customer requirement, lay flat, be free of tension, and should not have a tendency to curl.
Roll Length Measure and record the length of each roll inspected. Inspection for Defects The Vendor should train and/or conduct internal certification for the inspectors according to this Manual and Matrix Sourcing requirements. The Vendor inspectors should inspect each material type based on Four Point System before shipped. ~ Four Point System ~ A widely recognized inspection method frequently used in the textile industry. It is a technique issued by the American Society for Testing & Materials with reference to the designation ASTM D5 430-93 Start the frame and inspect for defects. Run the frame at 20 5 yards per minute (18 5 meters per minute). If a defect is observed: 1. Faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4, according to their size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect even if the nature is the same and then based on the points allocated to each defect, total points should be calculated.
~ Four Point Table ~ Vertical Defects (along the length) Length 0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 cm) 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) Points 1 2 3 Horizontal Defects (along the width) Length Points
0.1 to 3.0 in (0.1 to 8.0 1 cm) 3.1 to 6.0 in (8.1 to 15.0 cm) 6.1 to 9.0 in (15.1 to 23.0 cm) 2 3
A maximum of 4 points may be assigned to any one linear yard), regardless of the number or size of the individual defects. For a continuous lengthwise running defect, 4 points and 1 defect will be assigned to each linear yard where the defect exceeds 9 inches (23 centimeters).
Example: Short End/ barre effect on the full roll in 100linear yards: 400 points should be assigned with 100 defects 2. Mark the defect at the selvedge and/or at the defect. 3. Record the defect and the assigned points on the inspection worksheet.
Inspection Results
Complete the worksheet and calculate the total points of each inspected roll and the total of the inspected linear yards/meters. With this information use the appropriate formula below to calculate the Average Points (per 100 linear yards or linear meters).
Points/100 yd2 = Total Points of inspected roll x 36 Total Inspected Yards x Fabric Width in inches X 100
Evaluation Guideline Factory will evaluate a vendors quality performance based on the point count system, using the following guideline: Fabric Type
Woven Fabric Warp Knit Fabric Knit Fabrics (Open width Or Tubular)
Note: This criterion is subject to change at Matrix Sourcing/Customer discretion. D.2 Accept / Reject Procedure Vendor should not ship any roll or shipment with defect points exceed the above evaluation guideline. The factory will determine how the shipment can best meet Matrix Sourcing/ Customer standards. However, vendor might communicate with Matrix Sourcing prior to the shipment if the average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) of any roll shows a higher number than allowed on the Matrix Sourcing evaluation guideline above. In this case, the Matrix Sourcing & Customer may decide to use a shipment or the roll even if the average points per 100 linear yards (90 linear meters) shows a higher number than allowed. . D.3 Reporting The inspection is intended to determine the shipment quality and to capture information for quality performance evaluation of the vendor. One inspection report should be completed for each Item / color inspected and send a copy of the Inspection Report to garment factory prior to or with shipment. Inspection Report information containing inspection date / shipped date / season year / buy month / garment factory / order number / item number / batch number / dye lot number / color code and color name / inspection points / inspection results / yardages / weight / width etc. should be clearly visible on documentation with English language at least. Records should be kept at least 2 years and available to Matrix/ customer upon request. We expects all material suppliers to follow the same guidelines to ensure quality product delivered to the factories, In next section, we will continue the classification and description on fabric defects.
Missing Line
Pilling
Defect
Crease marks/Wrinkles/Fold Marks Pin holes
Description
appears where creases are caused by fabric folds under pressure in the finishing process Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes through tender frame. Major, if pin holes extend into body of fabric far enough to be visible in the finished product A break, tear or pull in the fabric, caused by a pulled thread in the fabric/yarn pulled out from the fabric Improper scratch during finishing Fabric got dirty spots when finishing An oil spot on the fabric Light marks, usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long before drying; color migrates leaving blotchy spots. This is a phenomenon which causes light colored fabric to yellow over time Dye smudged along width of fabric as a result of stop the printing machine stopping Print is out of fit, caused by print rollers not being synchronized properly; results in various colors of the design not printed in proper position Missing color in the pattern caused by color feeding stoppage or faulty printing
Snagging Abrasion Mark Dirt/Soil/stain Oil Spots / grease spots Water Spots / Water marks
Miss print