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SPIRAL LED CHANDELIER

by Dipankar on November 19, 2009 Table of Contents License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intro: SPIRAL LED CHANDELIER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 1: STEP-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 2: STEP-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 3: STEP-3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 4: STEP-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 5: STEP-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . step 6: STEP-6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 2 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 6

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) Intro: SPIRAL LED CHANDELIER
INTRO. This is a SPIRAL LED CHANDELIER with 240 LEDs working on AC current. It looks very decent when you switch off all the room lights at night. Gives a soft light throughout the room and you can use it while watching TV. Hang it in the Dining room and have a candle light dinner. This is a sister model of my instructables LED CHANDELIER posted earlier.

step 1: STEP-1
STEP-1 Take a piece of Mild Steel wire of 1/8.inch diameter and 12 to 14 feet long. Wind the wire into a spiral with a hook at the top. This is used as a support for the LED Necklace and the Transformer. See the Photograph for guidance.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

step 2: STEP-2
STEP-2 In this step connect the LEDs as shown in the circuit diagram. I have taken +8 & -8 LEDs in 2 rows so that it can be powered by a 16 volts 1 Amp. AC Transformer. The calculation is as follows:16 volts transformer without load shows 18 volts output. So 18 x 1.4 =25.2volts 25.2 volts divided by Led voltage 3.5. = 7.2 OR say you can use +8 LEDs per row, and 8 LED for the next row. 16 led x 15 times is 240 LEDs in total can be powered by this Transformer. Take care to connect the LEDs as per the polarity shown in the circuit diagram.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

step 3: STEP-3
STEP-3 Now you have 15 sets of 16 LEDs. Join them together and make a LED Necklace out of it. In this step connect the set of 15 LEDs in parallel to the transformer output. See Diagram for guidance. The Input of the Transformer is to be connected to your house voltage of 220 volts. AC.

Image Notes 1. 1 SET OF 8+8=16 led'S All 15 Sets of LED's to be connected as per the diagram shown here.

step 4: STEP-4
STEP-4 In this step you can see the close up Photograph of the LED Necklace. The electrical wires run along with the LED Necklace.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

step 5: STEP-5
STEP-5 In this step Insulation PVC Tape is wound around the steel wire to make it insulation proof. You can also use flexible plastic sleeves for this purpose. The Transformer is tied to the steel hook by locking wires.

step 6: STEP-6
STEP-6 Connect all the electrical wires and hang it from the ceiling fan hook. Switch on and ENJOY. I HAVE BEEN USING THIS FOR THE LAST 3 MONTHS, NO PROBLEMS.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

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Comments
48 comments Add Comment

tantai says:
nice spiral... but i am not understand in step-2 1.4 come from ? ....16 volts transformer without load shows 18 volts output. So 18 x 1.4 =25.2volts...

Nov 30, 2009. 10:45 PM REPLY

Dipankar says:
See my answer to maxwelltub where I have explained the 1.4 puzzle.

Dec 1, 2009. 3:31 PM REPLY

DAG1030 says:

Nov 30, 2009. 10:29 AM REPLY Fantastic project! I am going to make something similar with my own flair! One question...Have you considered using a capacitor for current limiting and omitting the transformer? Put enough LED's in series to divide up the voltage. This could add to your creative possibilities.

Dipankar says:
Dear DAG 1030, Capacitor will not work on AC and I want it to work on AC.

Nov 30, 2009. 7:47 PM REPLY

DAG1030 says:

Dec 1, 2009. 4:43 AM REPLY Try looking up capacitive reactance. In an AC circuit, capacitors and inductors will limit current. You can then divide your voltage between the LEDs to an acceptable level. An excellent tutorial: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_4/2.html

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

Dipankar says:
Dear DAG1030, Thank you for the link, will go through it.

Dec 1, 2009. 3:28 PM REPLY

electrosam says:
Well you should say " Conduction Proof" not Insulation Proof.

Nov 29, 2009. 9:35 PM REPLY

Dipankar says:
Thanks for the correction. English is not my mother toungue, mistakes are bound to happen.

Nov 30, 2009. 7:59 PM REPLY

drzcyy says:

Nov 28, 2009. 5:07 PM REPLY LEDs have an inherent death-wish. They are supposed to be connected to a FIXED-CURRENT circuit, not a fixed-voltage circuit. What happens is, in a fixed-voltage circuit, the LED will produce some heat when lighted. When its temperature increases, the LED's internal resistance will reduce, therefore the current (ampere) will increase. (remember this simple formula?:voltage=current x resistance). When the current increases, the temperature will increase more, reducing the internal resistance further, therefore increasing the current further. And so forth. So, what you will see is, when you switch on your circuit, all will be fine at first. After a while, the LEDs will burn brighter. Further on, your white LEDs will change color, usually yellow, or greenish. And if you still dont switch it off, it will burn out very soon. With all due respect, sir, what you need are "LED drivers", which are actually circuits which produces fixed currents, therefore eliminating excessive current in your LED circuits. You can actually build these "LED drivers" yourself. Maybe write an instructable on it? :) Thank you, Good instructable anyway!

Dipankar says:
Hi drzcyy, Please read my answer to verence's comments and you will know the theory behind this Instructable.

Nov 29, 2009. 3:38 AM REPLY

drzcyy says:

Nov 30, 2009. 12:51 PM REPLY Yes, I fully understand your theory. Basically, you are merely halving the current by utilising an alternating current, and the the diode properties of the LED, ie one cycle of the alternating current drives this line of LEDs, then the other cycle drives the other line of LEDs. And yes, you are right, halving the current, halves the heat production. But that doesnt mean that the temperature doesnt increase. And when an LED heats up, it draws more current, therefore heating it up further. Maybe a good heatsink will alleviate this problem. Or an inclusion of a capacitor in your circuit will cap off the voltage peaks found in the AC. Take a look at this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_power_sources under the topic "Power Sources". There's a topic on "Lighting LEDs on mains" too. Good day.

Dipankar says:

Nov 30, 2009. 7:56 PM REPLY Dear drzcyy, I like to do things differently which is hard for the learned people to digest, but if it works for a long time without any problem then my work is sucessful though it may not be what the BOOK says. I have read all about LED;s in Wikipedia. Thanks for the link. I had posted my LED chandelier about a year back with the same circuit and to this day it is working very nicely without any LED blowing off, so I made this on the same principal and circuit in a bigger scale. Maybe my methods is unorthodox but I can garentee you that it woirks perfectly.

texasclodhopper says:
Dipankar, I think you have your polarities screwed up in your diagram. I can see how to make this work, but you've got LEDs wired "+" to "+", and that doesn't make a bit of sense to me. Perhaps I missed something? Maybe if you drew a SCHEMATIC it would look right.

Nov 27, 2009. 8:55 AM REPLY

Dipankar says:

Nov 28, 2009. 3:39 PM REPLY

Sorry texasclodhopper, NO my polarities are not screwed up. I am not an engineer and know nothing of SCHEMATIC drawing but I have tried to explain this with another diagram in step 2. All the LED's are interconnected in the middle. Both the Rows of +8 and-8 are opposite to one another. As AC current flows in both directions alternatively so all the LED's are not glowing at the same time but alternately. Hope you understand my point.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

texasclodhopper says:

Nov 28, 2009. 7:58 PM REPLY Dipankar, now that I see your SCHEMATIC (and you drew a very good one), I can tell you that there is no electronic reason to connect those two rows of 8 LEDs together except at the ends where the power is applied. Through your innocence of electronics you have built something that works fine, but is wired "incorrectly". Unless there is a mechanical reason to wire the individual LEDs in parallel to each other, it probably isn't a good idea to do it. For instance, if an LED were to fail in a shorted condition (a rare condition) it would short out the LED wired in parallel to it. That LED wouldn't be lit. So, by wiring it that way you create a possible failure mode where it doesn't need to be. You circuit will operate in the same manner without those connections.

Dipankar says:
Hi texasclodhopper, Please read my answer to verence's comments and you will know the theory behind this Instructable.

Nov 29, 2009. 3:37 AM REPLY

texasclodhopper says:

Nov 29, 2009. 5:47 AM REPLY Well, I was being "nice", not argumentative, since your project is just a decoration in your house. Your "magic" electronic math has nothing to do with proper electronic construction. I suppose the end justifies the means in this forum called "Instructables" and electronic knowledge has little place in the process of discovery or presentation. I have been sufficiently dismissed that I feel the need to not bang my head against a wall.

Dipankar says:

Nov 29, 2009. 4:09 PM REPLY Dear texasclodhopper, I am really very sorry if I have in any way offended you though I did not mean to. Many people do the same thing in many different ways, but the outcome is important. I had posted my LED chandelier about a year back with the same circuit and to this day it is working very nicely without any LED blowing off, so I made this on the same principal and circuit in a bigger scale. Maybe my methods is unorthodox but I can garentee you that it woirks perfectly. This design was inspired by my friend qs who has posted many such Instructable in this site, before making any judgement I request you to go through them. THANKS.

ghoru says:

Nov 28, 2009. 1:43 AM REPLY perhaps wrapping ricepaper around the whole thing like a paper lantern could be a good way of hiding the transformer etc as i think during the day it looks somewhat unfinished. merely a suggestion

Dipankar says:
Could do that but the light will get dim.

Nov 28, 2009. 3:41 PM REPLY

wozlaser says:
This would look rad with a semi-transparent t-shirt on it.

Nov 27, 2009. 11:29 AM REPLY

KoenB says:
looks sweet when turned on in the dark but a bit dodgy during the day. Maybe you could try covering up the wiring a bit more.

Nov 27, 2009. 4:32 AM REPLY

unibomb bk says:

Nov 25, 2009. 9:53 AM REPLY this was pretty cool. i might keep it as a project idea. but its true that its more professional to do parallel n safer. but a great project.

mdog93 says:
how come you only drew the red (+) wire going to the first led, surely both need to be connected to the first led in the circuit. Is there something I don't know or what?

Nov 24, 2009. 10:07 AM REPLY

rogueleadr says:

Nov 24, 2009. 3:00 PM REPLY dude these are wired so 8 LED's act as one "light bulb". So the black wire going into the last negative end feeds into the first as well. So these are groups of 8 LEDs wired in series and the 15 groups of 8 are wired in parallel.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

Dipankar says:
Groups of 8+8=16 -------(+8 & -8 ) 16 LED one set 16 x 15 sets = 240 LED's. 15 sets connected in parallel. RIGHT.

Nov 25, 2009. 4:01 AM REPLY

mdog93 says:

Nov 25, 2009. 9:45 AM REPLY k, i think i know, i don't fullt know what you are referring to at times, but i get the series thing, just doesn't lok like it's wired in series cus its no layed out how i imagine it to be in a circuit diagram

killersquirel11 says:

Nov 24, 2009. 7:49 AM REPLY Just a note: it is a bit dangerous for LEDs to be in series. If one of them fails and gets an internal short, all of the other LEDs in series with it will probably get blown out. much safer to use two rails and just have all of the LEDs in parallel. And make sure you use resistors

Dipankar says:
Please see minutely that the LED's are interconnected so if one fails by chance the others will work.

Nov 24, 2009. 9:55 PM REPLY

countable says:

Nov 25, 2009. 4:29 AM REPLY What he was getting at I think was if one LED blows, the others are taking up the current that is no longer being used i.e. the same amount of current through less LEDs. That said, used responsibly LEDs normally last for quite a while before they fail.

verence says:

Nov 24, 2009. 3:12 PM REPLY While I'm normally the one who makes sure that you overprotect your circuit, ... well killersquirell11, ... I can't see a problem here. (At least no big one.) I never saw a LED fail on the short side. Normally the fail towards the open side, i.e. R -> infinity. So a chain of LEDs will go dark but nothing else. All LEDs parallel in two rails (one +/- and one -/+)? Yes, would work. But... a) if one LEDs fails on the open side -> no problem, just one dark LED b) if one LED fails and is shorted -> the power supply is completely shorted for this rail --> not nice! c) most important: you would need a power supply with a voltage that is close to the forward voltage of the LEDs (maybe around 3..4V) but a VERY high amperage (all LEDs would be in parallel!) Use resistors? Yes, a resistor is necessary to limit the current! And there is not a single resistor in this design, is there? Yes, there IS! Apart from the fact that all wires have a resistance, there is always the source impedance, i.e. the built-in resistance in the power supply. Of course, this resistance is most often not known. So you will have to test, how many LEDs parallel/serial your power supply will drive. Check the data sheet for the LED about the forward voltage at a recommended current and divide the power supply voltage by that value. That should be the number of LEDs in one chain. How many chains you will be able to drive? Divide the current of your power supply by the current per LED chain. Of course, that would give only some approximate values, but a good start for the tests. Yes, you would be on the safe side with using some resistors to stabilize the current, BUT you would burn a lot of energy (literally). So, before you build your chandelier, do the math and build a test version using the LEDs and power supply for the real design. Check voltage over the LEDs and the current flowing through them against the data sheet. And check that the power supply doesn't get hot. Have fun Verence

Dipankar says:
ALL MATHS DONE. NO RESISTOR REQUIRED. (NOW OR EVER) EXPLAINED BELOW.................. This is very well Explained by my friend QS. Intro Using AC with LEDs (Part 1)

Nov 24, 2009. 10:07 PM REPLY

Recently I came across a high quality transformer selling for under $1.00, so I bought a few of them. The reason they were so inexpensive was the fact that their output was AC only, while most consumer products required well filtered DC.

This Instructable is put together with the goal of getting AC-transformers working with LEDs without diodes and capacitors. I will show enough maths here so the concept is applicable to most other AC-only transformers.

Interestingly, many Black&Decker Dust-Buster transformers are AC only, and they are well suited for conversion, since many only use 1/2 of the output (half-wave rectification) only.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

step 1Working the numbers The subject transformer was made for many AT&T cordless phones, it is rated for 110v/60Hz and has a 10VAC 500mA output.

First, we have to be aware that the 10V rating is known as the RMS voltage, and is the effective average power of the sine-wave. The maximum voltage, which we will subject our LEDs to, is about 1.4 times higher.

We can demonstrate this by hooking up our transformer and taking some measurements.

The second image shows 10.8 VAC, which the unloaded output of the transformer. So we should expect a peak voltage of 1.4 x Vrms or 15.3v

Next we add a simple diode with a smoothing capacitor and measure the voltage across it: 14.5VDC.

This number is about .8v less than our calculations because the diode has a voltage-loss across it of .8V

This is one reason we try to avoid diodes because each one inherently loses (as heat) a bit of power - .8v is 25% of the power for a 3.2v LED.

So, we will be using 15.3 volt as the basis our calculations.

step 2Getting light We know that most white and blue (and UV) LEDs range between 3 and 3.6 volts. So by dividing our PEAK voltage by an average LED voltage, we get an idea of the number of LEDs our transformer can support:

15.3 / 3.3 = 4.6, which we round up to 5, giving about 3.1v per light. But remember, that AC has an identical NEGATIVE cycle! Which means we can add a mirror circuit that work on alternate phases.

The advantage of using voltages to start our calculations is that, as long as we stay with similar LEDs, and stay within its operating voltages, the current will stay within safe limits.

So, by adjusting the number of LEDs in use, we can handle most AC transformer outputs.

Now a quick check of the voltage shows that it is still at 10.8VAC. Our LEDs are only using a miniscule portion (4%) of the 500mA capacity of the transformer that...

We can multiply the light output up to 15 times just by adding chains of 10-LEDs arranged the same way across the supply! Imagine running 150 LEDs in an vast array off one tiny transformer. Pure simple direct drive all the way.

step 3The pitfalls One safeguard is that we have limited the drive to our LEDs to a very safe level - it will only reach its rated peak once per cycle. In fact it will be off completely when the opposing chain is lit. So we can expect extreme longevity from this arrangement.

The fact that each chain is off for half the time means there will be some flicker, which you can see in the photos below, taken with a high shutter speed.

By alternating on and off rows, the effect is minimized, and is no worse than using fluorescent lighting.

step 4Some variations.

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

Sometimes, you cannot get the right number of 3.5v LEDs for what you need. Then you can 'cheat' by substituting an amber LED in each chain - they operate around 2.4 volts, so that allows you to fudge your numbers a bit.

And about those Dust-busters - if you applied our method to their wall-warts WHILE the unit is charging, you may well find that one chain of LEDs never lights - this is because they only use half their circuit to charge the unit. Think of using the OTHER half of the cycle for LEDs as free power.

You can also adapt this method for DC supplies - but make sure you always measure the actual output first! Commercial units are notoriously bad for making up numbers.

step 5Recapping So, to find out what a transformer can support:

Measure its output: - If it is AC, use the V-AC scale on your multimeter, and multiply the results by 1.4 to get V-peak - If it is DC, use the V-DC scale read out V-peak.

The number of white (or blue) LEDs it can support is: - Vpeak / 3.3 and round up to the next integer. (E.g 4.2 is 5)

(Use V-peak / 2 for Red, Orange and Yellow LEDs)

That is the number of LEDs you can put in a series to operate off the transformer safely.

For AC circuits, you will need to duplicate another chain in the opposite polarity.

LEDs can be any current, as long as they are all the same, and the transformer has the current (A or mA) to support it.

Note: AC transformers can also have a VA rating instead of amps - just divide that number by the volts to get amps. I HAVE USED THE SAME FORMULA IN MY OTHER INSTRUCTABLE " LED CHANDELIER" See it and decide. It has been working for more than 6 months without any PROBLEM.

n0ukf says:
This looks nice, but... "Insulation PVC Tape is wound around the steel wire to make it insulation proof." Insulation proof? You're protecting steel wire from insulation?

Nov 24, 2009. 8:57 PM REPLY

Dipankar says:

Nov 24, 2009. 9:52 PM REPLY As the naked leads of the LED carry current, so to avoid the steel wire coming in contact and shorting the circuit, PVC tape is wound around it.

rimar2000 says:
Interesting design, Dipankar.

Nov 23, 2009. 4:36 AM REPLY

LEDs are something which I have not yet dared to face.Every time I tried to do something with them, I burned several, so that's why I fear them

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

killersquirel11 says:

Nov 24, 2009. 7:47 AM REPLY you need to use resistors if you aren't. The average power supply will give way to much current for an LED (even a microcontroller can supply ~40mA of current which is enough to fry an unprotected LED)

Dipankar says:
Rimar, Do not worry I will send you some lessons in LED and you can do it. It is very easy once you understand the concept.

Nov 23, 2009. 3:25 PM REPLY

redote says:
hi,Dipankar so do I, also give me the concept. my id is redote@hotmail.com thanks for yr help

Dec 16, 2009. 12:15 AM REPLY

maxwelltub says:
sorry i am missing something, where does the 1.4 come from?

Nov 23, 2009. 2:25 PM REPLY

Dipankar says:

Nov 23, 2009. 3:22 PM REPLY " where does the 14*V =31 come from," This is the 'magic' number of LEDs so that their total voltage drop is 33% (1/3) of the peak AC voltage. At this point, the output drops to about 75% of max which is will be noticeably dimmer. The math: Vpk = Vac * sqrt(2) Vled = Vpk / 3 # LEDs (in each direction) = Vled / 3.3 Combining them we get: (Vac * sqrt(2)) / (3 * 3.3), or about Vac * .14

maxwelltub says:
excellent, thanks for the break down. I dig your style

Nov 23, 2009. 9:22 PM REPLY

trike road poet says:

Nov 22, 2009. 7:35 PM REPLY I like this, sort of art and function. I would put a plastic strip over the wires, only because I have a couple of friends dumb enough to reach up and touch it just cause its shiny! (Yea, their that dumb!) You know, if all the LEDs were pointed down, this spiral light would be neat over a pool table. Like the way you did it, its a sort of mood light. This sort of opens the door to making a light fixture that is sculpture as well as a light system. Outstanding Instructable, a solid idea and a new challenge in creative thinking. Be neat to have a creative lamp contest and see what could be possible!

Dipankar says:
Johnn, Don't worry about your Dumb friends, Its' only 16 volts, nothing will happen to them.

Nov 23, 2009. 3:10 PM REPLY

trike road poet says:

"nothing will happen to them."

Nov 23, 2009. 5:52 PM REPLY

Oh if that were only true! I was thinking of the Led leads, exposed like that it would be easy for exploring fingers to bend them or even short them together unexpectedly. You have tied light and sculpture together, and that is a new potential for us all to explore! Good work.

ikestarm17 says:

Nov 23, 2009. 3:37 PM REPLY That's cool, but I think you should put spiral and led together so it's like spiraled but a play on words like "SPIRAled chandelier" I know that's real stupid but nice project! I was going to make the cord of leds which is another instructable but I haven't started it yet so I think I might do something like this!

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/

pandyaketan says:
5 Stars to ALL your LED projects !! Simply Brilliant Stuff.... Keep it coming !! reg ketan -------------------------------------------------------"May the good belong to all the people in the world. May the rulers go by the path of justice. May the best of men and their source always prove to be a blessing. May all the world rejoice in happiness. May rain come in time and plentifulness be on Earth. May this world be free from suffering and the noble ones be free from fears" ---- Vedic blessing

Nov 23, 2009. 1:12 AM REPLY

Dipankar says:
Your poetry is wonderful. Thanks for your comment.

Nov 23, 2009. 3:15 PM REPLY

brainwise says:
I like it!

Nov 23, 2009. 8:13 AM REPLY

http://www.instructables.com/id/SPIRAL-LED-CHANDELIER/