Port and Harbor Engineering

Radianta Triatmadja
Lecture note 4
WAVE and WAVE CLIMATES
Wind waves are generated by wind.
Wind stress on water surface, transfers the
wind energy to the water and create
waves
The waves energy and so the wave height
depends on the wind energy transferred
which is a function of :
Wind speed, wind duration and fetch
Coordinate system used in wave
dynamic
X
Z
Z=0
0,0
peak
Mean sea level
78,-6.3
45, -h
Notations
T
t
o
2
=
Amplitude = a,
or H/2
Wave length (L)
Fluctuation = q
Wave Period = T, Time required for the
wave to travel one wave length
L
k
t 2
=
Height =H
Linear Wave
(Airy wave)
q o =
H
kx t
2
cos( )
) cos(
sinh
) ( cosh
2
t kx
kh
z h k H
x
u o o
c
c

+
= =
w
z
H k h z
kh
kx t = =
+

c
c
o o
2
sinh ( )
sinh
sin( )
) sin(
sinh
) ( cosh
2
2
t kx
kh
z h k H
t
u
o
o
c
c

+
=
Particle
horizontal
velocity
Particle
vertical
velocity
Particle
horizontal
acceleration
Water
fluctuation
Particle trajectory
(x,z)

,
o =
+

H k h z
kh
kx t
2
1
1
cosh ( )
sinh
sin( )
, o =
+

H k h z
kh
kx t
2
1
1
sinh ( )
sinh
cos( )
Particle trajectory
What can be concluded from the fact that
the particle is moving in circle ?

Pressure under waves
) cos(
cosh
) ( cosh
2
t kx
kh
z h k H
g gz p o
+
+ =
Dispersion Equation
o
2
= gk kh tanh
L
gT h
L
=
2
2
2
t
t
tanh
L
h gT
C
t
t
2
tanh
2
=
Wave celerity
Wave Length
Wave Energy
E
gH
L
t
=

2
8
Wind Waves
Fetch
Wind
Speed
Wind duration
(hrs)
H in meter
Wind Waves
Fetch
Wind
Speed
Wind duration
(hrs)
H in meter
Wave height
T in seconds
Wind Waves
Fetch
Wind
Speed
Wind duration
(hrs)
Fully
developed
sea
Wave height and
duration
Adjusted Wind Speed
R
23 . 1
71 . 0
W A
U U =
7 / 1
10
10
|
.
|

\
|
=
z
U U
z
Adjustment due to measurement
above or below 10 meter
Adjustment if measurement
is conducted inland
Adjustment to
accommodate
temperature difference
Wind Stress factor
or adjusted wind
speed
Wind Waves
Fetch
Wind
Speed
Wind duration
(hrs)
H in meter, is significant Wave
Height
Wave Height Statistic
Hs = H significant , the average of 33% highest
waves in the record

H
10
= the average of 10% highest waves in the
record
N ln
Ratio between wave heights and H33 dan H100.

2.68
2.03
1.60
1.42
1.00
1.68
1.28
1.00
0.89
0.63
1
10
33
50
100
H33/Hrms Hn/H100 Hn/H33
n %
Hmax = 0.707 H
33
=
2
Energy Flux
F ECn =
Wave Transformation
Wave refraction (water depth variation)
Wave Shoaling (shallow water)
Wave defraction (obstruction)
Front Velocity
Lg
C
kh
kh
C
g
= +
|
\

|
.
|
1
2
1
2
2 sinh