Since all forms of climbing involve elements of risk, Fear is a natural part of our sport.

From the obvious physical dangers of climbing environments to the often overlooked emotional consequences of failure, there is much to be afraid of in our vertical world. whilst it is commonly perceived as an obstacle to achievement, fear is not necessarily a negative force in the climbing life. Psychologist and climber dr Ross Lorimer takes a closer look at the most challenging emotion of adventure. Fear can strike climbers at different times and in different ways. For some the moment of fear comes at the beginning of a climb, in the nervous tremors before you set off, as you consider the way ahead. For others, fear is part of the process of the climb itself, the sudden lurching sensation in your stomach when you look down, or that feeling of rising panic as you scramble to clip a bolt or place protection. In a striking reflection on soloing, the late Wolfgang Gullich talked about [the] crippling fear that made my every move freeze at the very thought and left my hands damp with sweat, and Jon Krakauer talks about how the void puts you on edge, makes your movements tentative and clumsy. Yet for others the fear comes later, in the self-doubts about your ability after a failed attempt. Legendary American climber John Sherman talked about his biggest fears not being during a climb but after: not the threat of imminent injury, but the fear that if I didnt go back up, I would be a chicken. For most, whatever the situation, fear is seen as a negative force that hinders performance and holds you back. However, that doesnt need to be the case, and fear can be overcome or even turned into a constructive energy that can improve your climbing, making it safer, more enjoyable, and helping you perform better. To understand how to get the most out of your fear, we first have to understand what fear is. Fear is actually a colloquial term that covers a variety of psychological factors. The theories underpinning it are complex, but the generalities of how it can influence a climber are easy to grasp. Firstly, fear has two components: a mental one and a physical one. The mental component covers your thoughts and feelings, the worries and doubts you have about possible outcomes. The physical element covers such things as an increased heart rate, heavy breathing, and muscle tension. Does any of this sound familiar? And how can these components be beneficial? The purpose of fear is to promote survival. This is by either stopping us doing something stupid, or helping us to overcome a dangerous situation. First, think about the mental component, the worrying thoughts and the inability to focus on anything else. The purpose of this is to draw our attention to potential dangers and to force us to think about how we will overcome them. Fear then increases our focus on the crux section of a climb. Next, think about the physical component, the racing heart and tension in the muscles, thats your body preparing itself for action; increasing the flow of blood, carrying oxygen and glucose to the muscles, and restricting those systems not essential to immediate action. Fear then increases our physical abilities, making us stronger. Fear is an essential evolutionary mechanism that helpss anticipate and overcome adversity. Heinrich Harrer described it as ...the right and necessary counterweights to that courage which urges men skyward, and protects them from self-destruction. Why, then, do so many people have such a negative opinion of fear?

While no one is completely free of fear, people differ in how they perceive and react to it. For some, a small amount of fear is enough to paralyse them, while for others nothing short of imminent injury will spur them on. The easiest way to consider the affect of fear is in terms of the Goldilocks syndrome; too hot, too cold, and just right. Fear can, and does, allow us to face and overcome challenges, but for some it can also hinder their performance. Most of us have experienced this in one form or another. Weve experienced the mental sensation of being fixated by our fear to the exclusion of all other thoughts. This prevents a climber from concentrating on the task at hand and causes them to hesitate, make mistakes, and can even lead to complete mental paralysis. In terms of the physical component, it is when we become so hyped up that our bodies begin to let us down. From trembles and shakes, and the all too familiar disco-leg which impede our balance and fine motor control, to muscle tension and tightness that prevent the smooth flowing of moves or restricts our range of motion and flexibility. Too much fear is a negative thing that impedes us and prevents us performing. Wolfgang Gullich talked about how fear ...can cause you to freeze up, to obstruct the precision of your climbing, to prevent you moving economically. However, what many climbers fail to consider is the opposite end of the scale not enough fear. This is when a climber is too relaxed, blas, or when they become overconfident. This can lead to climbers making simple mistakes, not taking all the safety precautions, overlooking the obvious needs of their situation, or failing to consider alternative actions. For the physical component, a climber who is too relaxed may be lethargic and slow, unable to find the power and endurance needed to complete a climb. Hermann Buhl summed it up concisely as mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence. No fear, then, might be as bad as too much fear. A climber needs to get fear just right, sufficient to improve their focus and concentration, as well as prepare their body for the physical demands of a climb, but not so much that they become fixated on their fears, becoming anxious, their muscles tense and jittery. To do this a climber must carefully manage their fear, having a realistic appreciation of the demands ahead without letting those demands overwhelm them. Leading American mountaineer of the 1970s Michael Kennedy puts it well: you need to have your feelers out, and you need to be willing to back off if things arent quite right. At the same time, you have to push through your doubts and fears. But how, then, do we manage our fear? Relaxation techniques are generally the first thing that climbers try. These can reduce stress and tension prior to, or during, climbing. They aim to prevent fear interfering with your performance, and include breathing techniques, body awareness, centring, and a range of other strategies. While these may seem like an ideal solution they dont make the best use of your fear. Research has shown that while non-elite athletes primarily use relaxation strategies to reduce their fear, elite athletes dont attempt to reduce the intensity of what they are feeling but instead try to change how they interpret fear, seeing it as beneficial rather than as a hindrance. Fear can be a sign of readiness, reducing it can also reduce your ability to perform. A better approach to managing your fear is to reframe it. See it as excitement, a sign you are ready, a positive thing rather than a negative. Think about the last time you were excited, your heart beat was racing, breathing shallow and fast, and your muscles tense. Sounds a lot like fear, doesnt it? In reality all that separates fear and excitement is how we interpret what our body is feeling. The

easiest way of controlling this is to monitor your thoughts and belief about yourself and your climbing ability. When you find yourself thinking Im not sure I can do this. This move is going to be really tough, instead try to think I feel anxious but that just means Im focused. Instead of being worried about something, you are thinking over the possibilities. Instead of feeling butterflies, youre feeling your body prepare itself for effort. It is not the easiest thing to do, reframing powerful primal emotions, but elite athletes have found that mastering these techniques allows them to harness the full potential of their body. Sometimes, however you interpret it, as fear or excitement, your mind and body are too stirred up. The easiest way to redirect this is to control as much of the situation as possible. One of the major causes of fear is uncertainty. Are you going to be able to pull off that move? Will the protection hold? Will your belayer catch you? Will the next section of rock or ice be good? Reducing the uncertainties allows you to predict the likely outcome of events, and so reduces fear and anxiety. Some easy methods include thoroughly checking your gear, meticulously scouting out the route, and only climbing with someone competent who you trust. Self-knowledge is also important. Knowing your own fitness and skill levels allows you to judge what you are and arent capable of. Practice and training are essential, not only for increasing your ability but also for exposing yourself to different situations. The classic example in climbing is practicing falling off in a controlled situation, but it can also include trying easier routes on similar rock or with similar moves; focusing on the difficulties you may have, but first overcoming them in a known, safe environment. Another way to manage fear is to control the relative importance of an event. Often the source of our fear is the sense of value we place on outcomes. Think about how youd feel about climbing the same route casually as opposed to in a competition, or pulling off a move two metres from the ground and the same move five hundred metres from the ground. Ideally there would be no difference, but for most the competition or increased height increases the level of fear experienced. Increased rewards such as money or trophies, or consequences such as perceived risk or embarrassment can heighten the fear we feel. While an increased sense of the importance of an event may increase our motivation, it can also lead to negative thoughts and fears. It may be important to remind yourself it is just another climb, that the competition doesnt matter, or that your protection is equally as safe at any height you climb at. Think about the key reasons you climb: enjoyment of the outdoors, adventure, physical and personal satisfaction - these are all things no one can take away from you, whatever the the outcome. It is also to important to remember that while we may try to reduce or manage our fear sometimes a climber will be too relaxed and will need to increase their focus. In that situation they would not try to increase their fear, but instead increase the physical and mental activation that are the beneficial aspects of fear. Some simple methods include listening to music or repeating self-motivating phrases in order to psych you up. Other methods include deliberately focusing on the difficult parts of the climb (a technique often called visualisation), strategising and planning how these will be overcome, or thinking about previous difficult climbs and other events or people that have inspired you in the past. Different climbers and different situations in climbing each have their own optimal level of physical and mental activation. Some individuals overcome difficulties through bravado, others by being cool and calmly focused. Some climbs require powerful movements and so need the increased physical activation and strength granted by fear, while other climbs require balance and controlled movements

where the slightest muscle tremble will cause a fall. Since every climber takes a unique approach to their climbing, it is necessary to manage our fear by finding an optimal level that works both for us and the situation. No climber can afford to ignore their fear, and the very best climbers are those who have not only learned to work with their fear, but have learned to make their fear work for them. Autor Dr. Ross Lorimer, Psiholog si catarator sursa: www.climbingmagazine.com AUGUST 2011