Serviceability, Wear, and Abrasion resistance

Serviceability: A textile material is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. Its serviceability ceases when it can no longer to do so. Purpose of Serviceability testing: To compare a number of different fibres, yarns, or fabrics, as part of market research. To determine the influence of cloth structure and finishing on performance. To determine suitability for making up, e.g. seaming properties, pleating and creasing properties, and other tailoring requirements. To assist in establishing criteria for laboratory testing and standard of performance. Wear: Wear is the net result of a number of agencies which reduce the serviceability of an article. Abrasion: Abrasion is just one aspect of wear and is the rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns of the fabric. Abrasion may be classified as follows: Plane or Flat abrasion- a flat area of material is abraded. Edge abrasion- (he kind of abrasion which occurs at collars and folds) Flex abrasion- in this case, rubbing is accompanied by flexing and bending. Factors affecting abrasion resistance: Fibre type (Nylon> Polyester and polypropylene> Nylon or Polyester blend with wool and cotton> wool and cotton> Acrylic and modacrylic> Viscose and acetates) Fibre properties (longer fibres, increased dia up to a certain level increase abrasion resistance) Yarn twist ( optimum twist, low twist loss the fibre from yarn, high twist prevents from flatten) Fabric structure (crimp) Points to be considered in the testing of Abrasion resistance: Condition of specimen. (standard atmosphere) Choice of testing instrument. ( flat/ edge/flex) Choice of abrasive motion. (reciprocating/ rotary/ multi-directional) Direction of abrasion (if unidirectional, warp/ weft way should be considered) Choice of abradant ( abrasive quality should be constant, e.g. steel, silicon carbide) Backing of the specimen ( hard backing/ felt or foam rubber) Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument ( foreign matters like wax/ graphite) Tension on the specimen Pressure between abradant and specimen The end point of the test Assessment of abrasion damage: Appearance against an unabraded specimen The number of cycles required to produce a hole/broken threads. Loss in weight. Change in thickness. Loss in strength.

 Change in other properties like air permeability/ luster. Microscopic examination of damage to yarns and fibres. Martindale abrasion tester: Specimen Diameter: 38 mm for abrasion resistance test and 90 mm for pilling test. Abradant Diameter: 140 mm. Abradant Type (for abrasion): Standard fabrics ( Canvas), Steel plates, Abrasive paper, Stones (aluminium oxide or silicon carbide) Abradant Type (for pilling): Same fabric as sample. Testing method: Four specimens are cut using the appropriate cutter. They are then mounted in the specimen holders with a circle of standard foam behind the fabric being tested. It is important that the mounting of the sample is carried out with the specimens placed flat against the mounting block. The test specimen holders are mounted on the machine with the fabric under test next to the abradant. A spindle is inserted through the top plate and the correct weight (usually of a size to give a pressure of 12kPa but a lower pressure of 9kPa may be used if specified) is placed on top of this. The standard abradant should be replaced at the start of each test and after 50,000 cycles if the test is continued beyond this number. While the abradant is being replaced it is held flat by a weight as the retaining ring is tightened.

Assessment: The specimen is examined at suitable intervals without removing it from its holder to see whether two threads are broken. See Table 1 for the time lapse between examinations. If the likely failure point is known, the first inspection can be made at 60% of that value. The abrading is continued until two threads are broken. All four specimens should be judged individually. The individual values of cycles to breakdown of all four specimens are reported and also the average of these. Table 1: Inspection intervals for Martindale abrasion test
Estimated number of cycles Up to 5,000 Between 5,000 and 20,000 Between 20,000 and 40,000 Above 40,000 Intervals for inspection Every 1,000 Every 2,000 Every 5,000 Every 10,000

Effect of Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument during abrasion testing: The region to be abraded should be handled as little as little as possible and be free from foreign matter such as the wax from crayons or the graphite from pencils. These substances tend to act as lubricants. Effect of Abradant choice during abrasion testing:

The abrasive qualities of the abradant material should remain constant during the test and be capable of being reproduced for successive tests. Steel and Silicone Carbide, for example, will give reasonably constant abrasive qualities.

Serviceability, Wear, and Abrasion resistance

Serviceability: A textile material is considered to be serviceable when it is fit for its particular end use. Its serviceability ceases when it can no longer to do so. Wear: Wear is the net result of a number of agencies which reduce the serviceability of an article. Abrasion: Abrasion is just one aspect of wear and is the rubbing away of the component fibres and yarns of the fabric. Abrasion may be classified as follows: Plane or Flat abrasion Edge abrasion Flex abrasion Factors affecting abrasion resistance: Fibre type Fibre properties Yarn twist Fabric structure

Points to be considered in the testing of Abrasion resistance: Condition of specimen. Choice of testing instrument. Choice of abrasive motion. Direction of abrasion Choice of abradant Backing of the specimen Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument Tension on the specimen Pressure between abradant and specimen The end point of the test Assessment of abrasion damage: Appearance against an unabraded specimen The number of cycles required to produce a hole/broken threads. Loss in weight. Change in thickness. Loss in strength. Change in other properties like air permeability/ luster. Microscopic examination of damage to yarns and fibres. Martindale abrasion tester: Specimen Diameter: 38 mm for abrasion resistance test and 90 mm for pilling test. Abradant Diameter: 140 mm. Abradant Type (for abrasion): Standard fabrics (Canvas), Steel plates, Abrasive paper, Stones (aluminium oxide or silicon carbide) Abradant Type (for pilling): Same fabric as sample. Testing method: Four specimens are cut using the appropriate cutter. They are then mounted in the specimen holders with a circle of standard foam behind the fabric being tested. It is important that the mounting of the sample is carried out with the specimens placed flat against the mounting block. The test specimen holders are mounted on the machine with the fabric under test next to the abradant. A spindle is inserted through the top plate and the correct weight (usually of a size to give a pressure of 12kPa but a lower pressure of 9kPa may be used if specified) is placed on top of this. The standard abradant should be replaced at the start of each test and after 50,000 cycles if the test is continued beyond this number. While the abradant is being replaced it is held flat by a weight as the retaining ring is tightened.

Table 1: Inspection intervals for Martindale abrasion test

Estimated number of cycles Up to 5,000 Between 5,000 and 20,000 Between 20,000 and 40,000 Above 40,000 Intervals for inspection Every 1,000 Every 2,000 Every 5,000 Every 10,000