FREE-HOT WATER From Your Wood Stove

By: Jack Atchinson

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Hot Water
We all know how expensive it can be... paying for hot water. Utilities are going up with no end in site. If you heat your home with wood, thumb your nose at those big utility bills. Save yourself a sizable chunk of money by heating your water at the same time- for free! Your hot water needs can be met with one of the following systems in this book. Building the stand alone type system, or tying in to your existing hot water heating, will immediately lower your energy cost, and recoup the very low cost of installation and materials quickly.

The Systems
We will be using your existing wood stove as a heat source. There are two types of systems: one uses gravity and thermo-siphon circulation (requiring no pump) and the other system uses a small in-line circulating pump. If you have a fireplace insert type woodstove, you cannot use the thermo-siphon option. You will have to use an inline circulating pump system (shown later in the book), which is no problem. As you read on, you will be able to decide which of the systems will best suit your needs.

Thermo-Siphon
This is a beautiful thing! Thermo-Siphon uses heat and gravity to circulate hot water. No pump needed! Weve solved our hot water needs this way for years, and its a great feeling knowing theres no moving parts, or power needed to turn on the faucet and get hot water.

This drawing shows the basic system:

Here notice the water tank is mounted at least 2 feet higher than the wood stove. It needs that much lift minimum for thermo-siphon to work properly. We have our 40-gallon tank setting in the attic, next to the wall. So the weight is positioned over the top plate of the outside wall, being very strong, and on top of the ceiling joist. The tank is strapped to the wall also.

Cold water from the house service is connected to the Cold or C -water In marked on the top of the tank, exactly like it would be connected to a normal water heater. Cold water enters the tank. Notice it has an internal length of pipe running down to the bottom of the tank. This keeps the cold water entering at the bottom so the hot water can rise and stay at the top. In this system, the drain valve at the bottom of the tank is removed. This is the cold water supply to the bottom of the copper coil, on the wood stove. Cold water circulates from the lower part of the coil, heats as it rises up the coil, and returns to the H or Hot -water In, marked on the top of the water tank. From that point, the Hot water is teed off to your hot water service for your home. For safety there is two (2) pressure relief valves installed, also known as pop off valves in the system. One valve is on the tank (comes with every residential hot water heater), this relives any tank pressure. The other we install at the bottom of the coil, BEFORE the drain valve (other wise it would be useless). These pop

off valves release pressure that could produce steam, which is very dangerous. ********PLEASE NOTE THERE IS NO POP OFF SAFTEY VALVE AT THE LOWER END OF THE COIL IN THESE PICTURES! There should be one there, and we dont recommend not installing it! If the steam pressure builds with nowhere to escape, it explodes the pipe. This is not good, and could seriously harm you or your family. This is why the pop off valves are used. By using two, one on each end of the system, you are covered and insuring a safe system. Both of the valves output needs to be plumbed out side, or underneath the sub floor of the house so the hot water can escape safely. All plumbing must angle upwards slightly to the storage tank in the thermo siphon system so no air pockets can develop. Air pockets can and will stop circulation.

Lets Get Started

The Tank
We use an electric hot water heater tank for water storage free from the junkyard. These tanks are plentiful, and can be found in good condition. Many people find out electricity is an expensive way to heat water, so they usually replace these perfectly good electric tanks with gas ones. Gas is better, but the cost of gas is skyrocketing yearly. The dump is more than glad to give these away. The reason we use an electric, instead of a gas powered water heater is the electric water tank has no fire flue, or hollow center like the gas model. The electric tank is a full round tank with no burner inside, it uses a heating element that screws into the side. We wont be using this, and dont even need to remove it. You can buy a fancy and expensive hot water storage tank like the ones they use for solar systems, and boiler systems, but there is no need. Even buying a new electric water heater is cheaper. Standard home hot water heater tanks are nicely set up with all the pipe connections we need. This is after all, what they are designed for... were just going to use our wood stove for the heat source. They even come with one pressure relief valve, but we will be using two, so you will need to buy one more (or better yet, snatch one off another tank while your at the dump). The trick in finding a good tank is to look for one thats not rusted out. This is easy! Look for a tank that does not have any big dents. This means it probably hasnt been smashed or dropped hard. Look for one that looks pretty new. The date is on the label. Look for one that doesnt have a rusted out bottom. Ive had great luck with these, and Ive never had to take one back. Talk with the attendant at the dump, and ask if you can bring the tank back and choose another one if it leaks. Usually they never object to this, but if they do, so what? The dump fee for one tank cant be much, and usually is free- because they recycle the metal in these tanks. Next, find a tank as big as you can get for your thermo-siphon system. You need to size the tank a little bigger than your needs. A small tank heats up to fast, and runs out of hot water to fast. Find a 35-gallon size minimum for a 2person household. 40 Gallon or bigger is even better. If you decide to go with the thermo-siphon system, you will be mounting the tank in your attic (explained

later on), or on the second floor etc., so adequate support for this extra weight needs to be considered. The bigger the tank, the heavier it gets. Water weighs about 8 pounds per gallon.

Plumbing Techniques
Plumbing was not at the top of my list for enjoyment. And my skills were pretty weak. But guess what? with the right techniques, and understandable instructions you can do it! And, you will find out as I have- its easy! Youll wonder why you hadnt tried it before. Its a great feeling of accomplishment, not to mention a handy money saving skill! We will be working with copper tubing for the most part. The coil type, and the rigid 10 lengths. You may also be working with some galvanized pipe. Again, there are easy ways to properly work with these materials, making you look like a pro with very little practice. And, even if your work doesnt look like a pros right off the bat, with my instructional help it will be functional and sound. There are many books available on these techniques, and buying one may help.

Copper
There are two different connection techniques for copper. For flexible tubing we will be using a flare connection. For rigid copper pipe we will be soldering our connections. Dont let the term soldering scare you! Its so easy and fast, you wont want to work with the regular old galvanized pipe anymore (but still thats no big deal).

Flaring Copper

This connection requires flaring tools, and a tubing cutter. See picture above. Buy decent quality ones at Home Depot or Wal-Mart. I always try to buy quality tools, and these stores usually have a good price for quality. We will be working with 1/2 inch copper tubing. There will only be 2 flare connections, one at each end of our copper coil.

Cut copper tubing with the tubing cutter by opening the cutter, and placing it on the spot you wish to cut. Lightly close the clamping cutter and turn the tool around the tubing. As you continue, tighten the cutter clamp and turn. Not to tight, because you dont want to squash the pipe out of round. Proceed until the cutter cuts through. Nice tool, isnt it? Beautiful cut.

The next step is to slide the proper size brass flare nut onto the tubing. We will be using a 1/2 female brass flare connector. Get these at Home Depot, or your local hardware, theyre not much money. After you slide the flare nut on the tubing, find the 1/2 position hole marked on your flaring tool die, and clamp it onto the tubing leaving a slight bit of tubing above the flare. Next, clamp on the flaring clamp tool with the cone into the tubing.

Tighten the tool down hard into the tubing to make the flare. This will take... and I suggest, a few practice trys to make good flares. Ask the Home Depot guy to show you how. They re glad to do this for you. No big deal, you can do flares like a pro! ********DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE OR ANY OTHER SEALANT ON FLARE FITTINGS!!

Soldering Copper
Soldering copper is really easy. Youll need a small propane bottle, like the one you use for your Coleman lantern and stove. Buy a small brass propane torch with a spark striker to light it, or you can spend a little more and buy the torch with the auto built in lighter like I have. This fits all mini propane bottles. Buy a small roll of silver solder for copper pipe, some solder flux, a small brush to apply the flux, and some steel wool or sand paper. All these items you will find at any hardware or building supply outlet. We will be using 3/4 copper pipe. Building codes require type M for the cold-water side, and type L which is heavier, for the hot water side. To join the pipe we use copper slip fittings for what ever angle or connection needed. The process is this:

(In case you cant make out the words above): Joining without tinning 1. Clean end of pipe with steel wool 2. Apply flux with brush or squirt tube 3. Push fitting onto pipe and heat 4. Apply solder, melted solder will flow up into joint Clean the connecting joint of the pipe and fittings with steel wool or sand paper to make a shiny clean connection. Apply a thin coating of the solder flux

with a brush to both the pipe and fitting, then install in the desired position. This makes the solder flow evenly. Roll out about 4 of solder off the roll, and start your propane torch. The flame doesnt have to be full blast, medium flame is fine. Position your work so the flame doesnt catch anything on fire! You can use a piece of concrete board, like the stuff used under tile bathrooms, as a flame shield. Heat the pipe joint with the flame evenly. Soon hold the solder near the joint and the flame, so it heats up also. Lightly touch the solder at the joint. As you heat it you will see it start to melt. Apply it sparingly, and lightly as it sucks the solder into the joint. Work it all around the joint, as you see it fill in. It takes a little practice not to use gobs of it, but when you do put some gobs on it, dont worry. It will seal fine. When you see the solder seal into the joint stop and let it cool. A little goes a long way.

Here is another way shown by pre-tinning (soldering the joint):

(In case you cant make out the words above): Tinning copper pipe joints 1. Clean end of pipe with steel wool 2. Heat end of pipe and coat with solder 3. Wipe off excess 4. Grip fitting with pliers, heat and apply solder to joint, tap out excess 5. Heat fitting and push into pipe 6. Heat and apply more solder if needed. Finished joint should be smooth all the way around.

Thats all there is to it! If it doesnt look pretty, dont worry. We re not trying out for the worlds most beautiful soldering contest. This process is very forgiving. If you dont feel youve done a good job, or it looks messed up (but most likely it will seal fine), hold the fitting with channel lock or regular pliers, and re-heat the joint until the fitting comes off. You can shake the excess solder off (be careful solder is HOT!) the fitting and pipe when its hot. Then you can start over. No big deal!

Galvanized Pipe
Youll need to work with a little bit of galvanized pipe, when you tie into your existing water heater (if you have existing galvanized). When connecting different types of metal plumbing with copper, you need to use what they call a dielectric union (see picture below). This is a connector that joins the two different types of metals. This is necessary because when you connect copper, or aluminum etc., to galvanized or bare steel. It makes the steel rust, and rust out quickly by a process called electrolysis. It also can make the copper corrode. This is more common with soft water that has a very high mineral content. The union allows you to solder the copper on one side, and screw in steel pipe in the other with a sealant. All building supplies have them.

Shown is a dielectric union joining copper pipe to galvanized pipe:

When working with steel (galvanized) pipe, always use two pipe wrenches. One to tighten with, and the other to tighten against. This way you will not bind, damage, or loosen any other plumbing your connecting to. The next important technique is to use Teflon paste on both the male, and female sides on the pipe threads. This stuff is great! Its easy to apply, it makes the pipes thread easier, and it seals like crazy. You dont have to tighten the pipe connection with the brute force of King Kong. Just tighten until the joints snug tight. One more tip... test the pipe joints for a dry fit first making sure the threads are not banged up. This is common with some pipes, even new from the store. If some threads on your existing plumbing are found to be crossed or banged up a little, no problem. Buy a thread die, to re-fix the threads. You start the die on the threads, and then using a crescent type adjustable wrench tighten the die on the pipe going back in forth until the threads are fixed. This is a good way to clean up old rusty threads too! Well now youre ready to add plumbing to your resume of skills!

Connecting the System

By now youve begun to think about what system will work best for your situation. Once youve decided on either a thermo-siphon system, or stand alone system using a circulation pump (shown later), or tying into your existing water heater system using a circulation pump (shown later). They all use the same plumbing techniques as Ive outlined above, plus some additional directions detailed next.

Mounting the Water Tank

(Notice the Pop-off relief valve above with its discharge plumbed outside) Wherever you decide to locate your water tank, make sure your homes structure can handle the extra weight. Dont just set it up in the attic and forget it! Seek advice from an experienced contractor/builder or structural engineer, or local building inspector. Make sure youll have room to install the plumbing. Make sure you plumb the pop off valve so it can escape outside the house, or under the house sub floor, according to your local safety building codes. Be sure to strap down the water tank so it cant fall over incase of an earthquake, etc. It is advised to purchase or make a trough or spill pan, one where the water tank sits in case of a leak. These pans can be connected to drain pipe in case of a catastrophic leak, the water will safely go outside.

The Wood Stove Copper Heating Coil

Buy a 50 coil of 1/2 copper tubing from your building supply (shown below). We will be wrapping it right onto your wood stove flue pipe at the base of the stove. This can be done with out removing the pipe, unless your damper is in the way. On a six inch flue pipe, 50 of tubing will wrap on about 29 times, and be about 16 1/2 tall measured from the top of the stove. This will heat 35 gallons of water overnight with a stoked slow burning fire. With a hotter fire, water heats faster.

Its great if your flue damper (if you even have one in the flue pipe) is above 16 1/2 from the top of the woodstove. If it is lower, you can either re-locate it higher, and plug the old holes (or get a new pipe section), or wrap the pipe around it (below then above it). It is more desirable to have the pipe wrap continuously touch all the way up, with no gaps. This is better for heating, but will not make a huge difference on performance. Start by unpacking the coil of tubing. Stretch out about 12. Hold it at the base of your flue pipe (do I need to mention letting the stove cool down first?). At the back, with your left-hand hold the end down, and hold the coil with your right hand. You simply wrap clockwise from the bottom up. You let more tubing off of the coil as you go around, holding the bottom firmly (get help to hold the bottom down if necessary), and applying downward pressure, and inward pressure as you work coiling up the flue pipe. Its really easy to wrap a tight coil with a bit of effort.

Start of the coil wrap. Notice the female flare fittings on each end.

This shows consecutive bends working around. Carefully keep downward and inward tension as you go around, and at the same time unwind the larger coiled tubing. You can connect another 50 of tubing if more heat is needed, just dont use solder fittings. Use a strong flare union. This one wrap is fine for 2 people and 35-40 gallons. Remember, to size your tank and coil needs accordingly.

A fairly tight coil is best. 2 people can work together one wrapping, the other holding the bottom end of the coil. Do not kink the coil!

Now you have a straight end sticking out on the bottom (point it towards the direction you want your plumbing to go), and you have an end at the top of the coil. All fittings need to be brass when using copper. This does not rust, and

does not need a special union that is used with steel. The next step is to connect a brass female 1/2 flare fitting on each end, using your flaring tool. On the bottom end, you will connect a brass fitting... 1/2 female flare to 3/4 male pipe. Then solder a copper 3/4 female thread pipe to 3/4 slip thread fitting to a 3/4 copper tee (See Pic). Always USE TEFLON SEALANT ON PIPE THREAD FITTINGS, BRASS OR GALVINIZED!! From the tee solder a...

Connect the cold side of the system (from the lowest part of the storage tank, most likely the drain) to the bottom end of your coil. At the bottom of the water tank is a drain hose valve. Remove this. There will be a 3/4 pipe thread hole in the tank where the valve was. As shown in the system diagrams (see drawings), this is where you connect the cold water feed to the heater coil. For the circulation pump system, install a 4 galvanized pipe nipple where the drain valve was, then a 3/4 tee to install the valve on one side, and a 3/4 dielectric union with a 3/4 slip to solder in the 3/4 copper pipe. (See thermo-siphon drawing). If you are using the thermo-siphon system remove the tank drain valve, and install a 3/4 nipple, then the dielectric union to solder on the 3/4 copper pipe. Run your copper pipe soldering the necessary angle fittings to the lower end of the heating coil tee.

This is the cold (from the storage tank) inlet side of the coil pictured. NOTE**** The space in this picture between the TEE fitting on the left, and the hose drain valve on the right is WHERE YOUR SECOND POP-OFF VALVE SHOULD BE INSTALLED!!! Then drained to the outside of the house. DO NOT FORGET!!! Connect the Hot side of the coil (the top) to your water tank with copper pipe and whatever angles you need to solder in. Remember you need a dielectric union if your water heater has steel pipe. Make sure your flare fitting connections are very tight using open-end wrenches, or crescent wrenches to tighten them snugly. DO NOT USE TEFLON OR ANY OTHER SEALANT ON FLARE FITTINGS!! With the thermo-siphon system, it is important all plumbing slants slightly upwards to the tank so there is no possibility for an air pocket to develop. Do not plumb high in one place, then slant down, and back up again. This will also create an air pocket. It doesnt matter with a circulation pump system.

Circulating pump system

Installing the water tank above your wood stove not practical? No worries. Use your existing water heating system, and tie in or plumb in your wood stove. This way of operation has many benefits. You dont need to scrounge up another tank. Your electric or gas fired water heater will work fine. It just wont have to work as much! Your woodstove provides the heat. You can use the system as you normally would, and in the summer, your water heater takes over. Or, you can add solar water panels like we do to take over the heating job... when its time to put the wood stove to sleep for spring and summer.

This drawing shows the basic system:

Here we have basically the same system as thermo-siphon, but with the water tank at the same level or lower than the heat source, thus gravity thermosiphon cant take place. The addition of an inline pump provides the circulation. This small electric circulation pump... utilizing very little energy, moves or pushes the water through the system. The water drain always has to be at the lowest part of the system, and is not located at the wood stove as before. It is now installed at the base of the water heater. The two (2) pressure relief pop off valves remain. One at the bottom of the stove coil, and one on your water heater tank for safety.

Buy a quality circulation pump. This will be the most expensive item in your system. Buy a pump with the proper voltage for your home. This is an EL-Sid 12 volt circulation pump; it is the best and most efficient for 12V systems:

EL-SID Brush less Hot Water Circulation Pump Can be purchased at: www.realgoods.com

These tiny brush less, magnetic drive circulators can be driven by PV modules or 12 volt batteries for closed-loop circulation in solar water heating systems, individual space heat zones and individual loop radiant floor loops. Model SID10 is designed to be powered by a 10 watt PV module and can pump 2.5 gallons per minute at no head and 12 GPM at 2.5 feet of head at 17 volts input. It can circulate water in a well-designed solar water heating system with two 4 x 10 collectors. Model SID10B is designed to be battery powered and has the same specifications at 12 volts. You can also find the right powered 110v to 12v converter to power this pump, and use your 110-volt house current.

For 110 Volt systems this Grundfos Pump has a handy timer and is ready to use:

It can be found at: http://rewci.com/whhohotwaci.html?engine=adwords!992&keyword=%28hot+water+ circulation%29 Specs: Timer: 24 hr, 3 position, 15-minute intervals. Electrical Cord: 10' Power: 115 VAC Pump Data: Flow Range: 0-3.4 U.S. GPM Head Range: 0-3.5 U.S. Feet Motor: Single Phase, 115V Min. Fluid Temperature 36 Degrees F Max. Fluid Temperature 150 Degrees F Max. Working Pressure: 145 PSI

Valve Technical Data: Patented Technology Integral Check Valve ANSI/NSF61 & IAPMO Approved. CUL/UL/UL EPH/UPC listed. Many other 110-voltage circulation pumps are available. Try www.realgoods.com or www.grainger.com Both type pumps are well under $300.

Final Notes
Make sure your water storage tank is larger than your needs for the most part. Having an undersized tank will cause you to use up your hot water faster, and then you have to wait for more to heat up. Also, if you wind up not using the smaller tanks hot water, after awhile it gets to the point where the tank is satisfied (full hot), and you start recycling heated water. The worst that will happen is your pipes will start to shake, rattle, and roll, then your pop off pressure relief valves will open and shoot water outside. When this happens, simply turn on the hot water, and use it. Use it in the washer, take a bath, wash the dishes, etc. This will fill cold water into the tank. With a larger sized tank, you never use it all up, so you have plenty, and it never gets satisfied. ONE WORD OF CAUTION********* Use a full 50 of copper tubing for your coil. NEVER connect lengths of tubing by a solder joint to increase the length of your coil. The heat from the wood stove will de-solder it. You can use a solid flare connection. Never run the wood stove without water in the coil system. Running it dry will heat and anneal the metal, and make it brittle! If you have water with a very high mineral content, you may experience corrosion in your copper pipes connected to the coil. If so install dielectric unions on each side of the coil to isolate it, then you may have to replace the coil every couple of years or so, but this is an easy, inexpensive maintenance item compared to high water heating utility bills. Never, use your system with the house main cold water shut off. If you do this, when you turn on the faucet, youre removing water that cannot be replaced by new incoming cold water. The system cant circulate, water stops moving and continues to heat until it becomes steam! This will be relieved by your pop off valves, but stresses the plumbing. Never, drain you system with a hot wood stove. Let it go out and cool down first. Then fill the system before you restart the wood stove. If you use a circulation pump, it has to pump continuously while the wood stove is hot and working. Do not stop your circulation pump while the wood stove is hot. Most pumps are thermostaticly controlled,

and this will turn it on and off automatically as needed.

*******NOTE THIS HOT WATER WILL BE HOT!! TEACH YOUR CHILDREN TO BE VERY CAREFUL AND TURN ON THE COLD WATER FIRST! **********

Your interest in heating hot water is a very worthwhile venture, as your cost will continue to climb if youre dependent on utility companies for energy. Using fuel such as wood for a dual purpose is not only cost saving, but waste reducing also. Many books and internet websites can be found on the subject of using solar hot water panels for heating water in the summer, and radiant indoor heating systems which all can be tied into your Free-hot water wood stove system.

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