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Odesa
August - October 2012

Inside

Updated, comprehensive and the best city guide to the Pearl of the Black Sea

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Foreword
Introduction to Odesa 4 5 8 11 13 20

Arrival & Transport


Arriving, getting to the city, public transport

The Basics
Customs, money, visas and more

Culture
Events schedule

Where to stay
Black Sea Jewel Hotels

Dining & Nightlife


Restaurants, Cafs, Bars and Clubs

House with Telamons. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are battling over a gigantic Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure.

What to see

Essential Odesa 28 Museums 30

Cosmopolitan Odesa
Bridging past and future

34 36 37 38 39

Mail & Phones


How to call from Ukraine

Shopping
Where to go shopping in Odesa

Business directory
Banks, accountants and lawyers

Lifestyle directory
Useful directory for staying in Odesa

Maps & Index


City centre map Street register/Index 40 42

odesa.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2012

Foreword
Odesa is Ukraines most charming city. Anyone who argues otherwise has never been to Odesa, has never strolled its captivating streets nor broken bread with its jovial citizens. As a tribute to its appeal, eight cities in the US, two in Canada and one in Brazil were named Odessa. Theres also Lake Odessa and even Odessa the planet somewhere out there in the cosmos. However, none of these tributes shine as vibrantly as Odesa, Ukraine: The Pearl of the Black Sea. Throughout its history Odesa has lured travellers, artists, poets, entrepreneurs and radical dissidents. The city was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, who realised that a port on the Black Sea was essential for the expansion of the Russian Empire. It was not erected on empty ground, however. Archaeological findings have revealed the existence of an ancient Greek settlement. The Kyivan Rus, the Golden Horde, Lithuanians, Ottomans, Tatars and Poles also made use of Odesas ideal location. The area ultimately fell into Russian hands during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1791), and was later annexed under the Treaty of Jassy in 1792. Unlike many of its contemporary Russian cities, the construction of Odesa was well planned. Duc de Richelieu, a French dissident who served in the Russian Army and later became one of the citys first governors, is credited as the citys visionary designer. The city boomed throughout the 19th century, and attracted an incredibly diverse population. Russians, Ukrainians, Jews, Romanians, Greeks, Bulgarians, Albanians, Armenians, Italians, Frenchmen and Germans all added their own unique vision to the citys unparalleled character. By the beginning of the 20th century, Odesa had become the third most important city in the Russian Empire behind St. Petersburg and Moscow. It continued to thrive during Soviet industrial expansion, and by the mid 1950s had become one of the worlds richest grain harbours. Despite the incursion of industry, Odesa has remained an invaluable cultural centre and a place of blossoming appeal. Although Odesa has been a sun, surf and relaxation destination for as long as anyone can remember, the city has really caught the buzz as of late. New restaurants, bars, clubs, hotels and resorts keep popping up to meet the demand of enthused tourists and adventurers drawn by this fascinating cultural centre nestled right up next to the beach. We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight the very best Odesa has to offer. You may view additional content and leave comments at www.inyourpocket.com.

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, Suite 25 Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. +380 44 467 78 20 fax +380 44 467 78 30 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14927 - 3899P Neolitas-KIS Printed by Express-Polygraph, Kyiv Published 4 times per year, 10,000 copies produced each issue Maps DNVP Kartographia, 2012 Odesa In Your Pocket, 2012

Editorial Editor & Writer Mike Voehringer Layout & Design Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. Photos Odesa In Your Pocket Cover photo www.flickr.com Sales & Circulation General Manager Andrii Cherniavskyi Sales Kyiv Anna Striletska, +380 63 671 71 11 Lviv Yuliya Kanyuka, +380 67 672 44 97 Odesa Lubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57

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Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & TRANSPORT


By bus
The Central Bus Station is located at Kolontayivskoi vul. 58. The station is currently undergoing repairs scheduled to be completedwell, no one knows for sure, but not soon. Despite the mess, it continues to function and the bus you need will most likely arrive to or depart from the central station. Bus schedules, ticketing booths () and an information bureau are available. All information is in Russian only, but dont be afraid to express yourself in English. Odesians, especially those who speak English, enjoy coming to the aid of disoriented travellers. For information on existing routes and routing status visit the bus systems website www.bus.com.ua (in Russian only). You can also order tickets to routes designated with a red tick. If you choose to order online, dont forget to specify desired destination.

New logo
A new brand style for Odesa was created recently by the well-known Moscow designer Artemiy Lebedev. Since all history and prosperity of Odesa is connected with the Black Sea, a golden anchor was chosen as a symbol of the city. Not only the symbol, but the full brand book, including logos in different languages, fonts, and samples of usage are available at www.artlebedev.ru/ everything/odessa/. The city council is going to use the new brand widely to strengthen the image of Odesa and increase it popularity.

By car
When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your drivers license and your cars registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you dont speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.

Tourist Information
G-2,Pushkinska 2 (entrance from Lanzheronivska), tel. (+380) 48 725 24 24, 7252424@ukr.net. This new office belongs to Odesa ity ouncil. Tourist Info Centre B-4,Italiyskyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380) 48 731 48 08, www.go2odessa.ru. This office was the first and one of only a handful entire Odesa. Staff can book anything - hotels, all kinds of tickets and city tours. QOpen 09:00- 18:00.

Odesa Tourist Information Centre

By plane
Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. A taxi to centre is unreasonably expensive; even experienced hagglers can expect to pay a minimum of 100Hr. Car rental might be a better option and is available in the main hall. Your cheapest option is bus or minibus. Fares to centre are less than 2Hr. As you exit the main terminal, look to the right. The bus stop is across the parking lot. Two buses and a couple of minibuses depart at regular intervals. Bus 129 goes to the rail station, and 101 stops at Hretska pl. Minibus 113 heads to Paustovskoho and 117 to Pastera. Also to the right, as you exit the main terminal is a VIP lounge. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

10:00- 19:00.

Free Tours Odessa & Tourist Information Center F-2, Havanna 10, City Garden, tel. (+380) 48) 794-65 -89, (+380) 94 95 095 89. QOpen

Public transport
Trams, Trolleybuses and Buses
These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They wont get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Tickets cost 1.50Hr and can be purchased from the conductor. All tickets are good for one journey. Monthly travel passes are only available at final stops. Odesas tram system operates 19 routes making it one of the largest in Ukraine. However, if you need to reach centre, tram routes are nonexistent from Preobrazhenska vul. to the shore so youll need to hop on a bus, trolleybus or minibus. The trams main function is to connect the edge of centre with outlaying districts. Eleven trolleybus routes and 90 bus routes fill in the gaps allowing passengers to reach just about any locale in the city.

By train
Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. A taxi to any centre location shouldnt cost more than 20Hr, but as you are a foreigner you face an uphill battle getting a just fare. If you walk a short distance from the train station (a prime location valued higher by cabbies) and flag down a car youre sure to get better treatment. Minibuses, buses and trams headed to centre and other points depart from the train station and adjacent bazaar. Keep in mind that youre just a short walk from numerous hotels, restaurants, shops and cafs.

Microbuses and minivans

All forms of transit make scheduled stops except for microbuses and minivans. These privately-owned marshrutkas () or route taxis can stop anywhere along their specified route. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver na zupyntsi, budlaska (on the stop, please) when youve had enough.. Route information (in Russian only) is posted on the front and back windows. Dont forget to pay as you exit. Fares range from 1.75 to 2.50Hr.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2012

ARRIVING & TRANSPORT


Driving in Odesa
T h e c on di ti on of most roads in Ukraine is basically wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is difficul t to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Fines for moving violations have recently been increased. The hope is that this action will lead to a decrease in some of the idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the worlds worst road safety ratings. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving (Ukraine has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to being behind the wheel). New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, maybe. Traffic patrol will soon be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. With a mix of narrow streets and reckless Michael Schumacher wannabes, driving in Odesa can be a hairraising experience. The fact that the city is laid out on a grid makes finding your way around relatively simple. Parking in centre can be difficult, but with a little patience and a good eye youre likely to find a free spot. The area around Deribasivska and Hretska pl. works like Chinese finger-cuffs - easy to get in but tricky to get out - and is best avoided. As you enter and exit the city, watch out for the numerous speed traps! According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector ().

Car rental
13/(+380) 67 218 21 41, odessa@avis.com.ua, www. avis.com.ua/en. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Europcar F-5, Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 40 11, www.europcar.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hertz G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. (+380) 48 729 33 58, odesa@hertz.ua, www.hertz.ua/en. Q Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sixt Staroportofrankivska 55, tel. (+380) 48 715 57 04, www.sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. VRC G-3, Bunina 16B, tel. (+380) 48 734 57 77, www.vrc.com.ua. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

AVIS H-4, Uspenska 4A, office 12, tel. (+380) 48 722 64

Long-distance Buses
fax (+380) 48 716 47 15, www.autolux.ua/english. Also at Central Bus Station, tel. (+380) 48 716 46 12. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Central Bus Station Kolontaivska 58, tel. (+380) 48 721 63 54, fax (+380) 48 733 56 63, www.avodessa. com. QOpen 24hrs. Ecolines Kolontaivska 58, Central Bus Station, tel. (+380) 482 32 55 20/(+380) 482 35 64 09, www. ecolines.net. Also at Bozhenka 4, tel. (+380) 482 38 49 00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Kraft Reisen GmbH G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel./fax (+380) 482 37 33 34. SAS G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel. (+380) 482 44 77 78. Triton-Service F-6, Novoschepnoi Ryad 5, Pryvoz Bus Station, tel. (+380) 482 32 66 69, fax (+380) 482 32 84 72. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Autolux Rozkyidailivska 18, tel. (+380) 482 37 73 92,

Airline tickets
AirBaltic E-3, Bunina 39, tel. (+380) 48 785 25 41, www.airbaltic.com. Austrian Airlines Odesa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 761 67 00, fax (+380) 482 49 00 78, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Carpatair Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 14, fax (+380) 48 749 55 13, odessa@carpatair. com, www.carpatair.com. Czech Airlines F-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 16, office 1, tel. (+380) 48 728 62 87, fax (+380) 48 731 42 17, www.czechairlines.com. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Donbassaero Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 48 711 71 27, www.donbass.aero. QOpen 05:00 - 15:00. EL AL Israel Airlines Odessa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 19 86, fax (+380) 482 49 03 07, www. elal.co.il. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Kiy Avia E-2, Preobrazhenska 15, tel. (+380) 48 725 10 30/(+380) 48 725 00 33, www.kiyavia.com/en/. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00. Malev Hungrian Airlines Odessa International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 54 75, fax (+380) 48 762 36 36, www.malev.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Polish Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 749 55 95, fax (+380) 48 749 55 80, www.lot.com. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. odesa.inyourpocket.com

Taxi
In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you dont believe us. Metered taxis dont exist, so youll have to haggle over the price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. Ararat tel. (+380) 482 37 10 30 Champion tel. (+380) 48 720 00 00. Formula-1 tel. (+380) 48 717 17 17. Forsage tel. (+380) 482 33 32 22. Pantera Express tel. (+380) 482 34 20 00/(+380) 48 777 30 00/50 00.

Odesa In Your Pocket

ARRIVING & TRANSPORT


482 37 07 73, fax (+380) 48 786 00 06, www.tavrey. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Transavio G-3, Bunina Str. 16, tel. (+380) 482 37 50 17/37 52 55, fax (+380) 48 777 74 54, innaetnarovich@ ukr.net. service by English QOpen 9:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. PJA6U Turkish Airlines G-3, Pushkinska 19, office 17, tel. (+380) 482 34 79 06/(+380) 482 34 79 07, fax (+380) 482 34 79 04, www.thy.com. Also at Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 49 00 90. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Ukraine International Airlines Odessa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 57 15/(+380) 482 39 37 10, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.

Tavrey Airlines Frantsuzkyi bulv. 42/1, tel. (+380)

Airports
Odesa International Airport, tel. (+380) 482 39
35 49, www.airport.od.ua. Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.

Odesa Holovna Train Station F-6, Pryvokzalna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 48 725 14 18. Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. As you proceed to the main hall youll find the departure and arrival schedules. In the halls to the right youll find ticketing windows, a service centre and a bank with currency exchange and ATM. Theres a waiting room with comfortable, plush seating in the service centre. The entrance fee is 5Hr and additional charges vary depending on what you want to do. If you would like to use your mobile phone, for example, the charge is an additional 1.25Hr. An international information desk is also located in the service centre. To the left of the main hall youll find waiting rooms, a caf, toilets, a news stand, a currency exchange and an apartment rental service. Upstairs is another waiting room, telephones and a post office. The first aid station, police office, station administration and a secured luggage locker are all located on platform No. 1. If you need to stash your bags for a while the price for this service per day is 8Hr for small bags, 15 for large and 30 for extra large. Directions are clearly marked in English in the main hall, so if at any time you get lost proceed to the main hall for reorientation.

Domestic train schedule


From Odesa To Odesa City Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 19:10 13:03 20:53 10:58 CHERNIHIV (on odd days) (on even days) 15:57 08:40 15:52 08:59 CHERNIVTSI (on odd days) (on even days) 22:20 09:12 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK (1-7) 19:30 06:28 14:45 06:18 17:20 09:17 DONETSK (on even days) (on odd days) 15:57 7:30 17:04 08:59 IVANO-FRANKIVSK (on even days) (on odd days) 18:51 08:50 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 18:08 08:19 13:34 20:43 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY (1-7) 22:19 05:45 18:21 10:21 (1-7) KOVEL (1-7) 17:21 09:54 23:15 08:34 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 23:14 08:50 19:10 06:55 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 18:22 05:36 22:54 07:37 (1-7) KYIV (1-7) 21:50 06:10 19:00 07:10 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 19:50 08:00 14:45 11:30 13:19 09:17 LUHANSK (on odd days) (on even days) 19:29 07:25 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 19:35 08:10 18:12 13:03 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 18:15 13:33 13:34 20:22 (1-7) VINNYTSIA (1-7) 22:51 05:45 14:54 07:20 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7) 12:50 04:54

Buying train tickets


For the full Ukrainian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of ticket offices (kasy) at the Odesa Holovna train station. The staff does not speak English, so try to practice you Ukrainian/Russian. It is a good idea to get know the train number in advance and write in on a piece of paper, together with the departure date and time. Dont bother to learn the Ukrainian alphabet, write down the destination city name in English. Please note that ticket offices accept only cash. Thanks to EURO2012 we finally have English signs almost everywhere. Visit www.uz.gov.ua/en for train schedule. Ticket booking options are also available there (though it may not work sometimes).

departure date

departure time

number of your carriage (vagon)

number of the train to/from stations seat/berth number final price arriving date and time

odesa.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2012

Basics
Basic data
Odesa
Population: 1 010 300 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 62,2%, Russian 26,8%, Bulgarian 3%, Moldovian 2%, other 6%.

Odesa vs. Odessa


Though Ukrainian and Russian are similar, there are notable differences including the spelling of many names. This is the case with Odesa (Ukrainian) and Odessa (Russian). Being that Russian is the language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Odesians, the Russian version is more common and useful, i.e. if youre searching the Internet, adding the extra s with definitely result in more hits. visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and cant be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).

Ukraine
Population: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012) Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8% Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Odesa, it is 14:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.

Communism
Like an aggressive case of athletes foot, communism refuses to go away. While Ukraines youth embraces capitalism and nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organisation savagely vandalised a famous statue of Vladimir Lenin in Kyiv. Most people, Ukrainians included, link communism to Russia this is inaccurate. Many leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution were, in fact, from Ukraine. The most notable of the lot was Lev (Leon) Trotsky, who actually attended secondary school in Odesa. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was born in the Dnipropetrovsk Oblast. Nikita Khruschev moved from Russia to Donetsk as a teenager, and ascended the ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalins rule, and memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known as the Great Purge (19361938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete eradication of political rivals including fellow party members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Ukraines share of the victims was disproportionately high.

Alcohol
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered home-made vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner.

Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels dont fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a

Customs
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs

Street smarts
Street (.) (VU-lytsia) Square (.) (PLO-scha) Avenue (.) (pro-SPEKT) Boulevard (.) (bul-VAR) Bridge (mist) Embankment (.) (NA-berezhna) Highway (sho-SE) Lane (.) (pro-VU-lok) Descent (uz-VIZ)

National holidays 2012


January 1 January 7 March 8 April 15 April 16 May 1-2 May 9 June 3 June 28 August 24 New Year Orthodox Christmas Womens Day Easter Sunday Easter Monday A day off for the workers Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Basics
duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and taxes if their total value does not exceed 50. However, food products should not total more than two kilograms, and there should not be more than one package of the same product. Goods with a total value of less than 200 may be brought in free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods is greater than 200, but less than 1000 they will need to be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the value of the goods is greater than 1000, the goods will be subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo. Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any international alert and you have documents which prove your right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (Kanatna 83, tel. (+380 48) 33-52-13/33-52-12. All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. Medications in the amount required for a course of treatment, accompanied by medical certificates and prescriptions, may be brought in. Prohibited drugs are not permitted. Cats, dogs and birds must be accompanied by a veterinarian health certificate bearing the seal of a state veterinarian institute in the country of origin. It must be issued no more than 10 days prior to arrival. Rabbits need confirmation of recent inoculation within 30 days before transporting or confirmation of yearly reinoculation. It is prohibited to import puppies and kittens less than three months of age and all pigeons. (Working with our local vet, we prepared all necessary documents for our dog; however, Ukrainian customs officials are a tricky lot. Only after a two hour search for the proper customs office, a 20 minute negotiation and a $30 bribe were we able to take our beloved Labrador.) Precious metals, stones and goods manufactured from such materials, items of cultural value procured for the purpose of sale, animal skins and furs, and feathers and down are prohibited for export. For further information please visit the official web-site of the State Customs Service of Ukraine www.customs.gov. ua or call the hot line 0 800501 31 30/ (+380) 44 247 27 19/247 28 50.

Disabled travellers
Odesa is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. Odesa Holovna train station does have ramps to the platforms, special ticketing windows, toilets and telephones, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.

Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Odesa, so bring your own.

Language
The countrys official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant. Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian

Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and

Market values
How do costs compare to back home? Heres a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonalds Big Mac 18,00Hr 1,84 $2,25 Loaf of white bread 3,25Hr 0,33 $0,40 Snickers bar 6,00Hr 0,61 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr 5,12 $6,26 Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 6,00Hr 0,61 $0,75 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr 1,38 $1,69 Public transport ticket 1,25Hr 0,13 $0,16 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,99Hr 1,13 $1,31 Official exchange rates (as of June 23): 1 9.75Hr US$1 7.99Hr 1 12.53Hr Current exchange rates are available at

Climate
30 100

Temperature, C

20 10 0

Rainfall, mm

75

50 25 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 0

-10

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August - October 2012

10

Basics
both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Odesa and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard- American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. else needs a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must obtain a visa. Transit visas are also required. For additional information, call (+380 48) 784 15 44. Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Lichtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380 44) 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the USA can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380 482) 33 33 94. Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the USA, Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call (+380 48) 724 23 24. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European Schengen zone. For more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380 48) 729 44 13/729 39 36, Hungarian (+380 44) 238 63 81, Slovakian (+380 44) 234 06 06.

Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Odesa is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.

Smoking
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.

Toilets
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Odesa. They are also in short supply, so make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each caf/ restaurant/pub you visit. Youre sure to notice locals dancing frantically as they disappear into alleyways and behind trees, only to reappear fresh and liberated. This may be a tempting alternative, but beware: this behaviour inevitably leads to awkward conversations with local police who love to levy hefty fines on foreign tourists. Good luck.

Working in Ukraine
For most of the past decade, many foreigners took advantage of Ukraines relaxed regulations and didnt bother getting work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed, and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay in cash under the table, but will offer assistance obtaining extended visas. If youre planning to work in Ukraine for a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration (VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your birth certificate, parents birth certificate, marriage licence showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated and time consuming, local and multinational companies can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and the police station.

or = ladies

or or = gentlemen

Tipping
Odesa tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.

Visas
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Mongolia, the USA, Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone

The Odesa telephone code is +380 48


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Odesa In Your Pocket

Culture & Events


Whats On
Black Sea Cup
17-24.08.2012 Odesa Bay/Odesa Sea Port The Ukrainian open regatta of cruising yachts is organised by the Odesa Regional Sailing Federation and will take place in Odesa Bay. The race will start on August 17, and finish on Independence Day the 24th of August. Up to 8 races are scheduled for the week.

11

Odesa Jazz Fest

Odesa Regional Cup

22-24.08.2012 Odesa Bay/Odesa Sea Port Odesa Regional Sailing Federation Another regatta will take place in Odesa Bay. Odesa Regional Cup is dedicated to the 21st anniversary of independence of Ukraine. About 50 cruise yachts will took part in the race. The Cup programme also includes a young yachtsmen competition. The final race starts from Odesa Sea Port.

International Jazz Festival 21-23.09.2012 Odesa Philharmonic, Bunina, 15 Jazz Carnival Producer Centre Tel.: (+380) 48) 760-01-09 www.jazzcarnaval.com.ua Three days of the best jazz in Odesa! The organizers reveal some of their secrets, kept for Odessa Jazz Fest. The programme features legendary jazz musicians and new jazz names. Among the guests of the Festival will certainly be Italian red-haired beauty Maria Markesini, the German Klazz Brothers, the French trio Paradox. The main event will feature the legendary Polish musician, 73 year old Zbigniew Namyslowski.

Autumn Rock-n-Roll from Goblin Show

Dyvokray

Polyethnic Festival of Arts and Crafts 24.08.2012 Deribasivska Street Info: tel.: (+380) 48722 04 15 A traditional festival of folk arts and crafts from different regions of Ukraine will take place in Odesa on Ukraines Independence Day. Visit Deribasivska to familiarize yourself with Ukrainian traditions and buy oberih -Ukrainian traditional talisman- or motanka -folk dolls made from corncobs.

International Biker & Rock Festival 20-24.09.2012 Mykolaivska doroha 164, Luzanivka, Odesakabel stadium MCC Rolling Anarchy Tel.: (+380) 67 567-45-63, (+380) 48 957-67-80 www.goblinshow.com Over 10 years ago, in 1999, the first international biker show took place in Odesa. Now it has become an annual event attracting participants from all over Ukraine and abroad. Apart from the usual road show, the programme features music shows, bike exhibitions, etc.

Art galleries
Eneida G-5, Velyka Arnautska 32 tel. (+380) 48 722 78 96, eneida@online.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Kontrabas Art-Caf Balkivska 31, tel. (+380) 48 777 05 40, w w w.kontrabas.od.ua. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. NT-Art I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 5, office 166, tel. (+380) 48 785 59 34, www.nt-art.net. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Salieri Art Caf F-2, Lanzheronivska 14, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 00. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Schastie F-2, Katerynynska pl. 6, ap.7, tel. (+380) 48 731 54 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Tvorchestvo F-1, Hoholia 6, tel. (+380) 48 795 59 38. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. U Vernisage H-5, Belinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48 725 88 99, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua/eng. service by Engish, Frech QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. PA6UL White Moon H-3, Kanatna 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 26. QOpen 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. August - October 2012

Odesa Day

02.09.2012 www.odessa.ua A great celebration of the 218th anniversary of Odesas founding will be full of noisy and colourful events. To join them you should not buy any tickets, just visit the central streets and enjoy.

Odesa Meetings

International Festival of Performance Art 31.08-11.09.2012 Odesa Academic Russian Drama Theatre Hretska 48 Tel.: (+380) 48 722-22-51 www.rusteatr.odessa.ua This annual event will take place in Odesa for the 7th time. Russian drama theatres from Moscow, St.Petersburg, Kyiv, Tel-Aviv, Kaliningrad, and Odesa will present their best performances on the stage at the Odesa Academic Russian Drama Theatre.

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Culture & Events


Culture Centres & Societies
- 19:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Arabian Culture Centre F-5, Rishelievska 49, tel. (+380) 482 37 91 60, www.kivan.com. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Bavarian House F-4, Uspenska 60, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 777 06 96, fax (+380) 482 34 52 76, www.bayernhaus.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bakhtalo Drom - Odesa Roma Congress Akademika Zabolotnoho 2, apt. 16, jukor@te.net.ua. Bazlyk - Odesa Karaites Society Krasnova 2, apt. 24. Birlik - Gagauz Cultural Society Varnenska 7B. British Council Fontanska doroha 33, office 107, tel. (+380) 48 718 81 19, www.britishcouncil.org.ua. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. Bulgarian Culture Centre F-3, prov. Vitse-Admirala Zhukova 9, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36. eska rodin - Odesa Czech Society Akademika Zabolotnoho 51, tel. (+380) 44 54 35 61, www.czrodina.narod.ru. Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hellas - Odesa Greek Club Bazarna 71. Hillel Jewish Culture Centre E-1, Hretska 7, tel. (+380) 48 726 60 00, www.hillel.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat. Israel Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 11, tel. (+380) 48 723 02 05. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri, Sat. Jewish Culture Centre Beit Grand E-3, Nizhynska 77/79, tel. (+380) 48 737 40 52, www.beit-grand. odessa.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Bunina 18.

Alliance Franaise E-2, Sadova 3, tel. (+380) 48 737 46 70, www.af.od.ua/fr. QOpen 15:00 - 19:00, Tue 17:00

AMERICAN DAVID LIVINGSTONE UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA MIAMI ODESSA


Business administration programmes (-), Linguistics & Translation studies

www.aufonline.org; aufo ce@gmail.com O cial representative in Ukraine: Christian Open University of Economics & Humanitarian Sciences www.hgeu.com.ua; eduworld12@gmail.com 7950 NW 53RD STREET, SUITE 215, MIAMI FL 33166 OC
Document N08000011481 Acc. to rule 6E-5.001 of the FL Dep. of Ed.

SOCIAL PROJECT

BAYERN HAUS ODESA


Uspenska 60, o ce 2

Odesa branch of Azerbaijani Congress of Ukraine Odesa Jewish Community G-4, Osypova 21, tel.
(+380) 48 728 07 70.

Russian for foreigners Translation centre

Summer program for children

mes German & language English courses

Odesa Regional Greek Society Bunina 29, office


18, tel. (+380) 482 37 27 72, gercyles2004@mail.ru. plato 1.

Odesa Society of Armenian Culture Gagarinske Prosvita Ukrainian Society - Odesa branch H-3,

Marazliyevska 34A, tel. (+380) 48 703 36 66.

Societ Dante Alighieri - Comitato di Odessa F-2, Hoholia 17, tel. (+380) 48 787 96 65, ladante@rambler. ru, www.dantediodessa.blogspot.com. Ukainian Moldovian Cultural Association G-6, Kanatna, 83, office 18. Ukrainian Club of Odesa F-5, Katerynynska 77, tel. (+380) 44 722 09 66, ukranian.house@gmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Novoselskoho 68.

Wiedergeburt- Odesa German Cultural Society

Culture
O cial Partner of Goethe-Institut in Ukraine

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Where to stay
Odesa has been a popular business and tourist destination for more that 200 years. The interest in this important region has left an indelible mark in the form of plenty of accommodation. From ultra-ritzy to run-down Soviet relics, Odesas hotel infrastructure can easily accommodate a wide range of clientele including convention goers, discriminating business travellers, sun-seeking families and even budget backpackers. Rooms become harder to find during the summer peak. Our obvious recommendation: book ahead and avoid the hassle. Tired of hotels? A number of private companies offer newly renovated apartments, which can be rented on a nightly basis and are considerably cheaper than most hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite pluses. Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. Mostly prices doesnt include 1% tourist tax.

13

Cream of the Crop


Arkadia Plaza Posmitnoho 1, tel. (+380) 482 30 71 00/(+380) 482 30 71 01, fax (+380) 482 30 71 58, arcadia-plaza@com.od.ua, www.arcadia-plaza.com/ english. Arkadia is officially a four star hotel. As we explored the luxurious rooms and became familiar with the wealth of available services we wondered what had happened to the fifth star. Did it get devoured, like a remote control, in the cushions of one of the rooms plush sofas? The 24 lux-class rooms and four spacious suites are stunning, but the services are really what set this place apart. Where else can you order room service 24/7, play tennis, dine on fine French cuisine and disco all under one roof? Other services include swimming-pool, sunbathing terrace, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, parking, bar/lounge, etc. Did we mention that the hotel is situated on a popular windsurfing beach? Q24 rooms (10 standard 1980 2190Hr, 8 superior 2520 - 2730Hr, 2 junior suite 3739 - 3969Hr, 3 suite 5850 - 6060Hr, 1 Plaza Suite 7551 - 7761Hr, extra bed 450Hr). PTHARFLGKDCW hhhh Bristol G-3, Pushkinska 15, tel. (+380) 48 796 55 01/(+380) 48 796 55 02, fax (+380) 48 796 55 03, bristol@bristol-hotel.com.ua, www.bristol-hotel.com. ua. The building which houses this hotel was constructed in 1899 by Italian architect Bernardazzi and is protected as a historic monument. Formerly known as Krasnaya (Red) Hotel, the interior was remodelled in 2010. The new interior successfully blends modern amenities with the designers original vision. The ambiance is extremely tasteful and the rooms, with their lofty ceilings and classic furnishings, have a late 19th Century bourgeoisie feel. Rooms come with standard facilities and balconies with views of the historic city centre. Services include restaurant, bar/lounge, laundry, parking, travel services and a barber shop. Q112 rooms (57 standard 270 - 300, 39 superior 320 - 350, 8 junior suite 465, 6 suite 620 - 800, 2 Presidential suite 1100). PZTJHARFLGKDXCW hhhhh

Symbol key
P Air-conditioning 6 Animal friendly T Child friendly H Conference facilities A Credit cards accepted U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Guarded parking R Internet G Non-smoking rooms K Restaurant D Sauna C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi internet access

Continental G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03 99, fax (+380) 48 786 05 50, office@continentalhotel.com.ua, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Originally constructed in the mid 19th century, the hotel was completely reconstructed in 2005. Today it prides itself on being Odesas ideal venue for business and leisure. All rooms are luxuriously designed and incorporate all services expected of a four star hotel including satellite TV, internet, safe, mini-bar, Italian furniture and air-conditioning. Perhaps the most noteworthy feature is located on the first floor. Im referring to the lavish Voyage Restaurant, of course. One taste of the original, superb dishes and youll book a room just to be close to this culinary gem. Q32 rooms (6 economy 1290Hr, 12 standard 1730Hr, 10 junior suite 2390Hr, 3 suite 2900Hr, 1 apartment 4420Hr, extra bed 363Hr). PHARFL GKDCW hhhh London E-4, Uspenska 95, tel./fax (+380) 48 784 08 98, info@london-hotel.com.ua, www.london-hotel.com. ua. This British themed hotel is located next to a picturesque park, whose name has been changed so many times that no one seemed to know what to call it. The hotels name is unmistakable, though, and youll soon notice that theyve taken everything trendy from Britain and stuffed it in through the front door and all the way up to the rafters. The porter is dressed like a beefeater, and whos serving-up ale at the pub? A kilted Scotsman, of course. This place has great security and each room comes with air-conditioning, safe and fabulous park views. The internal non-chlorinated water purification system insures that tap water is drinkable in accordance with European standards - unique features such as this breath in high class. 10% discount when booking from London web-site. Q37 rooms (11 standards 1295 - 1745Hr, 12 twins 1295 - 1745Hr, 1 junior suite 1798 - 2048Hr, 12 suites 2495Hr, 1 duplex apartment 5290Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHARLGKW hhhh Londonskaya G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, tel. (+380) 48 738 01 02/(+380) 48 738 01 03, fax (+380) 48 738 01 11, hotel@londred.com, www.londonskaya-hotel.com. ua/. Located in the heart of the city overlooking the port, theyve taken a mid 19th Century hotel and dressed it up with lavishly remodelled rooms and halls complete with all the ambience and modern amenities the contemporary traveller has come to expect. Rooms are equipped with satellite TV, wireless Internet access, mini-bar, fabulous views, safe and air conditioning. Other highlights include airport transfer, disabled access room, free parking, high-tech conference rooms, a spacious banquet room, professional multilingual staff and Formula wellness spa centre with swimming pool and gym. The restaurant and lobby bar have gained a reputation all their own and attract party-goers from far and wide. Q69 rooms (12 standards 110 - 130, 40 superiors 140 - 185, 10 junior suites 260 - 290, 6 suites 350 - 380, 1 Presidential suite 530 - 575). POARUFLGKDCwW hhhh Maristrella Club Vannyi prov. 3, tel. (+380) 48 785 50 00/(+380) 482 32 44 44, luxury@maristella-club.com, www.maristella-club.com. A Luxurious 5 star hotel on the seaside outside the centre. This Wellness Spa Resort is in the shape of a large ship. There are 15 top notch rooms ranging from 1750Hr-3250Hr per night. The staff was very helpful and fluent in English. The price includes breakfast and the use of all facilities, pools, spa, gym, etc. Q17 rooms (5 standard 2200 - 2750Hr, 5 studio 4500 - 5400Hr, 5 deluxe suite 6000Hr, 1 Presidential suite 11000Hr, 1 Presidential apartment 15000Hr). PTAFLKDCwW hhhhh
1 = 9.75Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; 1 = 12.53Hr

(23 June 2012 official rates) August - October 2012

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14

Where to stay
90 90/(+380) 482 33 90 95, fax (+380) 482 33 90 91, hotel@morskoy.com, www.morskoy.com. Morskoy is located just steps away from Arcadia Beach and a 10 minute taxi ride from centre. There are countless attractions in the neighbourhood, and sun-seekers tend to stay, dine and party long into the night at one of Arcadias many restaurants and nightclubs. The hotel was built recently so rooms are fashionable and modern. All come equipped with safe, min-bar, air-conditioning and satellite TV. The hotels Fish Time Restaurant is worth checking out even if youre not staying at the hotel. Q54 rooms (29 standard 1912 - 2212Hr, 12 superior 2232 - 2532Hr, 4 junior suite 3032Hr, 6 suite 3512 - 3812Hr, 2 apartment 4312 - 4612Hr, 1 apartments with a terrace 6136 - 6436Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhh Mozart F-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 37 77 77/(+380) 482 37 69 00, fax (+380) 482 37 98 94, www.mozart-hotel.com/en. During his exile in Odesa, Aleksander Sergeyevich Pushkin was a regular at this hotels casino. Can you see him across the room? Hes perched attentively on a card table stool, one eye tracking his bet, the other scanning the corseted ladies for his next adulterous feast. With its elegant interior and location at the epicentre of Odesas art and culture scene, its understandable why this hotel so easily lured Pushkin. The casinos gone, but a variety of impressive amenities stand in its place and include a swimming pool, VIP lounge, bar, banquet halls and Mozarts own restaurant renown for its Ukrainian and European dishes and romantic views of the Opera and Ballet Theatre. The rooms definitely lack in space, but are luxurious and packed with goodies such as airconditioning, cable TV, Internet, mini-bar, etc. Q41 rooms (3 suites 2722 - 3785Hr, 3 apartments 3984Hr, 2 junior standards 1328 - 1859Hr, 28 stardards 1585 - 2117Hr, 2 family rooms 1585 - 3179Hr, 3 junior suites 2192 - 3254Hr, extra bed 531Hr). PHARLGKDCW hhhh Otrada I-6, Zatyshna 11, tel./fax (+380) 482 33 06 98, contact@hotel-otrada.com, en.hotel-otrada.com. Located in the ritziest part of town and just steps from the beach, Otrada is a touch of class in a sea of mediocrity. The stunning building was designed and constructed in the late 19th century. The 26 rooms (ten standard, six luxe, three deluxe and seven suites) were elegantly remodelled in 2005. All rooms come with satellite TV, Internet access, mini-bar, safe, hair-dryer, robe and slippers. This ultra-stylish venue is equipped with wonderful security, room service, business centre services and free parking. Two of the citys most celebrated eateries, Casa dItalia and La Terrazza, offer-up fine European and Ukrainian cuisine. Otradas Beach Club is unrivalled in Odesa: relax in the pool or sauna and get pampered at the beauty centre. Q26 rooms (10 standards 1850 - 2257Hr, 6 superiors 2504 - 2704Hr, 7 junior suites 3226 - 4884Hr, 2 suites 6347Hr, 1 apartment 9800Hr, extra bed 525Hr). PTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Villa Venezia Kamanina 16, tel. (+380) 482 34 26 36/ (+380) 482 34 69 34, venice.hot@gmail.com, www. venice-hotel.com.ua. There are 10 fully equipped rooms in 3 categories ranging from 1287Hr- 2863Hr. There is a sauna, indoor and outdoor pools, and many extras including round the clock service. The popular restaurant offers European and

Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. (+380) 482 33

Italian cuisine with Italian chefs at your service. Q9 rooms (3 standard 1680Hr, 3 junior suite 2290Hr, 2 suite 2850Hr, 1 VIP suite 3890Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PHARKDCW

Upmarket
Aleksandrovskiy F-4, Oleksandrovskyi prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 48 725 61 61, fax (+380) 48 725 48 47, reception@alexandrovskiy.com.ua, www.alexandrovskiy.com. ua. This modern hotel is situated in the heart of the historical city centre and is ideal for either business or pleasure. There are 38 rooms in five different categories, something for everyone. All come with fully equipped and many have a lovely view. Prices range from 895-2500Hr per night. The restaurant is 1st class with a lovely beige dcor and offers European, Russian, and Ukrainian dishes. An average meal costs around 250Hr per person and its open from 11:00-22:00. There are also 2 conference rooms available for business meetings. Q38 rooms (standard 990 - 1150Hr, superior standard 1300 - 1460Hr, junior suite 1700 - 1860Hr, suite 2200 - 2800Hr). PHKW Ayvazovsky G-3, Bunina 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 97 77, fax (+380) 48 728 11 34, info@ayvazovsky.com. ua, www.ayvazovsky.com.ua. Named in honour of the famous Crimean painter, Ayvasovsky sits on a hushed street a few doors down from the Opera and Ballet Theatre and Philharmonic. The design and comfort of the rooms and the level of service definitely warrants more than a three star rating, but rooms are relatively small and dont come with a balcony. International telephone connection, wirelesses Internet, min-bar, safe and air-conditioning are standard in all rooms. The accommodation rate includes a continental breakfast. Services available with additional charges include mini-bar, laundry services and car park. Q27 rooms (suites 1850Hr, standard 880 - 1280Hr, junior suite 1680Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAGW hhh Chorne More (Black Sea) F-5, Rishelievska 59, tel. (+380) 482 30 09 04/(+380) 482 30 09 05, fax (+380) 48 731 47 23, blacksea@bs-hotel.com.ua, www.bs-hotel.com.ua/en. This hotel caters to all tastes. The rooms are elegant, but have a welcome home feel. For those in need of relaxation, a sauna, solarium and massage parlour are just steps away. For those looking to burn a few calories, the hotel has a relatively impressive swimming pool and fitness centre. The restaurant serves up scrumptious European and Japanese cuisine (banquet room seating for up to 85 available), and a casino and concert hall are also at your disposal. Breakfast not included. Q207 rooms (23 singles 500 - 550Hr, 103 doubles 500 - 700Hr, 72 junior suites 650 - 800Hr, 9 suite 900 - 1300Hr, extra bed 100Hr). POARFLGKDCW hhhh Columbus Novoberehova 90, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 03 37, tel. (+380) 48 728 03 34, hotel-columbus@ mail.ru, www.columbus-odessa.com.ua. This quaint yet stylish hotel is located on the coast in one of Odesas most romantic and prestigious neighbourhoods. Rooms are magnificently decorated and come equipped with cable TV, Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, mini-bar and safe. Efficient service ensures speedy check in/out. Business services are also available and include Xerox and document scanning, faxes, etc. Columbuss restaurant presents an enticing selection of gourmet seafood, and the comfortable refined bar is open around the clock. Other services include airport and rail station transfer, individual tour guides, tickets to theatres, exhibitions and galleries, a variety of excursion programs and boat tours. Youll find a Turkish bath, sauna, Jacuzzi and massage parlour in the health centre. Breakfast is included in the room charge, and loyalty discounts are available (ask the front desk for details). Q8 rooms (junior suites 1050 - 1150Hr, suites 1750Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PTALGKDW hhhh odesa.inyourpocket.com

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Odesa In Your Pocket

Where to stay

15

729 67 00, booking@hotel-ekaterina.com, www.hotelekaterina.od.ua. This lovely hotel is named in honor of Catherine the Great whose decree in 1794 founded the city of Caledonia (Odesa). It is close to the centre near the famous Potemkin steps. The building which houses Catherine is a monument of architecture. It was built in 1905 and has the longest and most famous balcony in Europe. (I bet you didnt know that.) At first sight we thought how can anything nice be in this building? This is getting to be a common trend in Odesa, to build luxury hotel rooms in an older-regular apartment building. There are 12 exquisite junior suites and 13 standard rooms. Each room has its own design & colour giving a warm and cosy atmosphere. There are also a few self-contained apartments. We found the staff to be friendly and helpful, and fluent in English. It has a lovely roof-top 24 hour restaurant with a breathtaking view. The cuisine is European, and an average meal will cost about 300Hr for two. Q25 rooms (economy 980Hr, standard 1120 - 1220Hr, superior 1320Hr, junior suite 1140 - 1160Hr). PKW Frapolli G-2, Deribasivska 13, tel./fax (+380) 482 35 68 01, tel. (+380) 482 35 68 09, frapolli@mail.ru, www.frapolli-hotel.com. They must be doing something right - all 26 rooms were booked when we visited and they could only show us around the elegant lobby. The excellent location on Deribasivska vul. and the luxurious interior justify its popularity. Rooms come with air-conditioning, safe, mini-bar, satellite TV and views ideal for people watching. A small meeting room equipped with modern goodies can be booked and accommodates up to 20. Other mentionables include breakfast buffet, bar, sauna, gym and round the clock service. Q27 rooms (2 economy rooms 840Hr, 9 standards 1185 - 1385Hr, 9 superiors 1475 - 1675Hr, 5 junior suites 1590 - 1790Hr, 1 suite 1740 - 1940Hr, 1 apartments 2000Hr). PTHAR6ULGKDW hhhh Frederic Koklen F-2, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48 737 55 53/(+380) 48 737 55 54, fax (+380) 48 737 55 51, fkhotel@gmail.com, www.koklenhotel.com. This small cosy boutique hotel Frederic Koklen is located in the historical centre of Odesa and is surrounded by all major city attractions. The four storied 19th century building contains 17 rooms, which are designed in classic style. In the hotel you wont find two similar rooms, each is unique. The set of amenities includes WiFi, air-conditioning, satellite TV,etc. There is also a fitness centre and conference hall. The hotels windows overlook either the old streets of Odessa, or the lovely courtyard. Q17 rooms (1 single 1455Hr, 9 doubles 1735Hr, 1 junior suite 2355Hr, 4 suite 2830 - 4035Hr, 2 apartments 2955Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PHAR6UFLGKW hhh La Gioconda I-5, Druhyi Lermontovskyi provulok, 1, tel. (+380) 48 784 14 60, fax (+380) 48 784 14 59, reception@lagioconda.odessa.ua, www.lagioconda.odessa.

Ekaterina II E-2, Kateryninska pl. 7B, tel. (+380) 48

ua. This boutique hotel is building a reputation of a friendly hotel, the staff do all they can to make your stay pleasant. While it is a bit off the beaten path, its not that far from the centre and has an excellent sea view. There is a swimming pool and lovely gardens to stroll in. There are 16 spacious rooms in lovely dcor; each room has its own unique design. Prices range from 1,600-3,200Hr per room. Q16 rooms (deluxe room 1970 - 2670Hr, junior suite 2550 - 3100Hr, suite 3100Hr, extra bed 350Hr). PAFGXCW Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 30, fax (+380) 48 728 78 99, welcome@hotel-palladium. com.ua, www.hotel-palladium.com.ua. Located five minutes walk from the railway station, Palladium is a modern hotel with an ultra stylish interior. Rooms are equipped with cable TV, a climate control system, a telephone and a mini-bar. The courteous staff is at your service and the entertainment and relaxation amenities are contemporary and impressive. The hotel hosts a popular restaurant and night club. Other amenities include Turkish and Finish sauna, massage, Jacuzzi and Russian billiards. Q23 rooms (17 standards 1038Hr, 2 junior suites 1362Hr, 3 suites 1914 - 2178Hr, 1 apartment 2340Hr). PHAR6LGKDC hhhh Prominada Fontanska doroha 143, tel. (+ 380) 48 705 40 50, fax (+ 380) 48 705 40 51, sales@prominada.com, www.prominada.com. The architecture resembles an old style house and is out of town 5 minutes from clean beaches. We found the staff friendly and English speaking. The rooms are spacious, fully equipped, and very affordable with a great buffet breakfast included. The 3 categories of rooms range from 1,000Hr. double occupancy to 1,400Hr. There are discounts for early bookings. There is a conference room, swimming pool, ample parking and access to the spa and gym at nearby Hotel Maristella. Q (standard 1300 - 1600Hr, junior suite 1600 - 1900Hr, suite 1900 - 2200Hr, extra bed 300Hr). PHALCW

Mid-range
Brigantina Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 48 725 07 25, fax (+380) 48 725 67 25, welcome@brigantina. od.ua, www.hotel-brigantina.od.ua. The feature that sets Brigantina apart from the competition on Lanzheron beach is that they have English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc. Rooms are basic, tidy, come equipped with Wi-fi, TV, air conditioner and are priced according to the view. Space is limited, so book ahead. The restaurant features a popular terrace, a spacious indoor dining area and private dining room. Ukrainian and European dishes make up a menu highlighted by grilled veal, pork and chicken, salmon, Black Sea kambala and roasted veggies. Q9 rooms (8 doubles 600 - 700Hr, 1 suite 1000Hr). PARGKW hhh August - October 2012

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Where to stay

Admirala Azarova 1, tel. (+380) 48 729 86 55/(+380) 48 729 86 56, fax (+380) 48 729 86 56, reception@bmg. od.ua, www.bs-hotel.com.ua. It is located near the centre not far from the famous French boulevard. The hotel has a restaurant, lobby bar, summer terrace with BBQ, four tennis courts, and a football field. Nearby are a hiking trail, beach, and a yacht club, where one can find boats for hire. One can rent speedy little water scooters, or be dragged by a boat in a parachute. There are 32 rooms with a modern, stylish design. They have lovely panorama windows and some have a sea view. The prices varying according to the season and number of occupants. So a standard could run from 600-1,210Hr, a junior suite from 715-1, 4 30 hr, and a suite from 1,210-2,860 Hr. (Breakfast not included). The restaurant serves Mediterranean & European cuisine and is open daily from 07:00-21:00, weekends till 23:00. Q32 rooms (25 standard 715 - 825Hr, 5 junior suite 935 - 1045Hr, 2 suite 1430Hr). PHLKW Deribas F-2, Deribasivska 27, tel. (+380) 48 794 43 64/(+380) 67 559 01 01, booking@hotel-deribas.com, www.hotel-deribas.com. Conveniently located on the most popular street in the city centre. All rooms are decorated in lovely light tones and are fully equipped. Prices range from 350Hr. - 800Hr., depending on the season and amount of persons booking. Each room comes with a semi kitchen, and there is catering available as well as a handsome discount at a nearby restaurant. Q (economy 550Hr, standard 720Hr, business 1000Hr, superior business 1200Hr). PW Ekaterina F-3, Hretska 25, tel. (+380) 48 722 64 08, booking@hotel-ekaterina.com, www.hotel-ekaterina. com. The hotel is named in honour of Catherine the Great who in 1794 issued the decree to found the town the pearl near the sea and named it Odessa. It is located right in the city centre. The building was originally created by the famous architecture Ju.M. Dmitrenko as a mansion. Each room is uniquely designed with Italian furniture, is fully equipped, and can accommodate up to 3. Q15 rooms (suites 1290 - 1350Hr, apartments 1490 - 1790Hr, junior suite 1150 1190Hr, deluxe suite 1550 - 1750Hr, family 1840 - 2040Hr, extra bed 150Hr). PW Lermontovskiy I-5, Lermontovskyi prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 717 78 77/(+380) 48 717 78 79, lermonrovskiy@ ukr.net, www.lermontovskiy.com.ua. The hotel is located next to Lermontovskyi Sanatorium - a tremendously popular destination for health rejuvenation and relaxation during Soviet times. The hotel really stands out against the rundown back drop that is the sanatorium. The area and hotel continue to attract a mostly Eastern European crowd and westerners may find familiar services lacking and the atmosphere somewhat tacky. However, the location - a short walk from the beach, Chornomorets Tennis Club, a yacht club and seaside restaurants - make this an intriguing possibility for summer

Chorne More Otrada (Black Sea-Joy) H-6, Vitse-

visitors. All rooms come equipped with air-conditioning and satellite TV. Youll have to book a premium if you desire a mini-bar, bathrobe or slippers. Services include a restaurant, caf, sauna, small conference room, travel services, parking and laundry. Q33 rooms (singles 620Hr, doubles 650 - 840Hr, suites 890 - 1080Hr). PHALGKDCW hhh Medea Henuezka, 31/1, tel. (+380) 48 760 13 60/ (+380) 48 746 62 51, fax (+380) 48 760 13 38, medea3@ ukr.net, www.medea.at.ua. This hotel-restaurant is hard to beat! I remember seeing the restaurant before but never realized that it is a hotel as well. Its as close to the sea as you can get, right in the heart of Arcadia. There are 13 rooms fully equipped rooms - all with a sea view! Coffee in bed is included! (Breakfast & Internet costs a bit extra.) The dcor is an old style of beautiful wood & stone which gives it an authentic Armenian touch. Price per night ranges from 400-1,200 Hr. The restaurant is of course Armenian cuisine with an English menu & a warm English speaking staff. There is shashlyk, and special dishes with mutton & chicken served with potatoes by dancing girls in Armenian costumes. (Or is it Armenian girls in dancing costumes?) The average meal is about 300Hr per person. Open 24 hours. Q13 rooms (economies 650Hr, standards 800Hr, superior standards 1200Hr). PAGK Oktyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. (+380) 48 728 88 63, fax (+380) 48 760 14 62, info@oktyabrskaya.com. ua, www.oktyabrskaya.com.ua. This hotel is located ten minutes walk from Deribasivska in one direction and the train station in the other. Rooms are neatly remodelled to the local taste and come standard with refrigerator, satellite TV and Internet connection. Most rooms have air-conditioning and some luxe rooms come with balconies overlooking a sleepy courtyard. Economy class rooms have a shared bathroom. The complimentary light buffet breakfast is served in the quaint caf that features Ukrainian cuisine. There is very little information available in English, but the staff is more or less capable and, true to their Odesian roots, are friendly and always willing to help. The hotels conference hall accommodates up to 30. Q59 rooms (7 suites 1080 - 1160Hr, 11 economy 430 - 510Hr, 34 standard 680 - 860Hr, 7 junior suite 930 - 1010Hr). PHARLGKDW hhh Palma I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel. (+380) 482 339 339, palma@hotel-palma.od.ua, www.hotel-palma.od.ua. If a tidal wave ever hits Odesa, this place would be completely swamped - thats how close you are to the beach. The hotel has 24 rooms with a double bed in each room and are priced based on the view (rooms with sea views come at a premium). Popular with young couples, advanced booking is recommended. The caf has a bit of everything for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ukrainian dominates the menu, with the shashlik and Odesa-style sudak being among the favourite items. Q12 rooms (9 standards 500 - 600Hr, 3 suites 750Hr). PR6LGKW hhh

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

17

777 63 44, www.princess.od.ua. The princess is a lovely modern hotel out of town on the road to Arcadia and the beaches. There are no signs and even locals 100 meters from it could not tell us where it was - so get directions 1st or get GPS co-ordinates. Having arrived, we needed to put on sunglasses as the reception area is so bright & white and the staff very friendly and fluent in English. There are 30 rooms, with a modern-bright design-very impressive! The prices are quite reasonable; from 550-1,500Hr per night. (Breakfast is extra-just 65Hr.) Q30 rooms (20 standard 550Hr, 7 junior suite 770Hr, 3 suite 1100 - 1320Hr). PW Tsentralnyi (Central) E-3, Preobrazhenska 40, tel. (+380) 482 36 58 05/(+380) 48 726 84 06, fax (+380) 48 726 86 89, admin@centralhotel.od.ua, www.centralhotel.od.ua. Is the glass half empty or is it half full? Is Tsentralnyi a great value or do you get what you pay for? You be the judge. The location is a definite plus, as is the English speaking front desk. Be nice to the Soviet-era key lady who patrols the halls - this may be the key to a satisfying stay. Corny jokes aside, the rooms have had some remodelling, the complimentary slippers are a nice touch and the communal toilet is clean. Thats right. If you opt for a cheaper room, youll have to share a toilet. The caf and bar are on the ground floor. Q61 rooms (25 singles 260 - 500Hr, 24 doubles 340 - 760Hr, 8 junior suites 800 - 900Hr, 4 suite 1200Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHAR6LGW hh Yunost S.Varlamova 32, tel. (+380) 48 738 04 04/ (+380) 48 738 04 17, fax (+380) 48 738 04 12, reserve@hotel-yunost.com, www.hotel-yunost.com. Located on legendary Frantsuzkyi Boulevard, Yunost offers affordable rooms and spacious conference facilities. Arcadia Beach - Odesas coastal dining and entertainment epicentre - and the botanical garden are just a short walk/ride from the hotel. Rooms range from the bargain Twin Standard to the posh Wedding Suite (also a great value). The three modern conference rooms are perfect for both large conferences and small business meetings. The caf and Mediterranean Terrace offer guests a variety of tasty dishes. Banquets can be arranged for up to 45 people; parties and standing receptions can be booked for as many as 60. Other notable services include Wi-Fi, banking, car rental, parking, safe, transfer, travel services, beauty salon, massage, room service and a business centre. Yunost is also known for its enticing specials such as the wedding and honeymoon package and unbeatable deals for business groups. Q156 rooms (17 single standart 495 Hr, 66 twin standart 495 Hr, 30 junior suites 910 Hr, 43 suites 1060-1260 Hr) . PHARUFLDW hhh

Princess Fontanska doroha 71A/3, tel. (+380) 48

Apartment hotels
Amerikano F-3, Rishelievska 17, 3rd floor, tel./
fax (+380) 48 729 70 50, tel. (+380) 93 541 69 69, info@apar thotelamerikano.com, w w w.apar thotelamerikano.com. Its amazing what can be done with a little imagination. From the outside it looks like a regular apartment building. Inside, it resembles a 4 star hotel with 24 rooms, it is right near the centre and quite unique as each room has its own in style and dcor such as art deco, etc. prices are quite reasonable running from 400-800Hr per room. Q (studio 775Hr, junior suite 936Hr, deluxe suite 1110Hr). PJAGW

(+380) 48 785 40 89, hotelcorona@yandex.ru, www. coronahotel.com.ua. These lovely hotel/apartments are located near Arcadia and the beach . Some rooms are apartments with kitchen etc. while others are just hotel rooms. All are top standard, fully equipped with round the clock service. There is a lovely caf open from 10:0000:00. Feel like a workout? There is also access to the citys largest fitness club-right in the building. Transfers and help with tickets etc. is also available. Prices vary according to category and time of year. Roughly the prices go from 499 to 1,400Hr per night. We thought it a pretty good deal. (Careful for the elevator-its tricky.) Q (standard 960 - 1000Hr, senoir standard 1150 - 1200Hr, suite 1200Hr, apartment 1400 - 1550Hr). PW

Corona Henuezka 36, tel. (+380) 48 700 44 08, fax

DRK Residence F-2, Lanzheronivska 24, tel. (+380) 482 32 72 26/(+380) 482 32 72 28, fax (+380) 482 32 82 29, www.hotel-drk.com.ua. Located smack dab in the centre, this residence has a unique theme; all rooms are 2 tier thus creating more space. The dcor is modern with beige tones adding to the peaceful atmosphere of the hotel. It has AC & all the standard goodies, and surprise - it is wheel chair accessible. The rooms range from 500-1,900Hr per night for two, breakfast included. Q28 rooms (standard 700 - 950Hr, junior suite 1100Hr, suite 1500 - 1900Hr). PUW Klumba G-4, Osypova 5, tel. (+380) 48 711 73 27/
(+380) 93 710 56 21, reception@hotel-clumba. com, www.hotel-clumba.com. The Klumba or flower bed mini hotel is located just a short walk from the city centre. Actually it is located in 2 mansions next to each other. The 21 rooms are designed for a family or those on extended holiday: there is a washing machine, built-in mini-kitchens and, of course, WiFi, TV, & AC. There are small balconies with cosy wicker furniture and a wonderful view. Prices range from 422-1,250Hr per room. While there is no restaurant, there is a 20% discount for guests at a nearby caf. Q21 rooms (suites 1350Hr, business 650Hr, superior 750Hr, studio 870Hr, family 970Hr, junior suite 1100Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PW

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Where to stay
(+380) 48 249 62 72, reservations@theodessagroup. net, www.odessaexecutivesuites.com. OES is American managed, with an English speaking staff and situated within walking distance to all attractions, restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, supermarkets, and banks. There are 6 categories of room, fully equipped with kitchenette. Free transport to and from airport and free long distance phone calls to most countries. Very competitive prices, breakfast included. Q17 rooms (suites 85 - 180US$). PAR6KD Odesskiy Dvorik Residence H-4, Uspenska 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 72 71, fax (+380) 48 728 75 73, dvorik@online.ua, www.odesskii-dvorik.od.ua. This hotel has a unique design with a V.I.P . room, 7 Elite, 6 luxury, 12 business, 15 Standard and 2 economy rooms. All rooms are modern, comfortable, with TV, mini-bar, electronic safe, air-conditioner, phone, and internet access option. The hotel includes restaurant (Jazz Cafe), conference hall (up to 80 persons), gymnasium, parking, and WiFi zone. Moderately priced. Q49 rooms (economy 950Hr, standard 900 - 1100Hr, junior suite 1160 - 1360Hr, suite 1560 - 1760Hr, apartment 3200Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PHAR6FLGKDW hhhh Renaissance Suites Odessa G-3, Rishelievska 11, apt. 22, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 11/(+380) 48 700 5666, info@rso.od.ua, www.rso.od.ua. Great location in the centre with a friendly English speaking staff. We liked the bright rooms and fully equipped kitchen. Very modern with sat TV and computer with internet. Also free phone calls to anywhere in the world! Q10 rooms (4 studio 59 - 69US$, 3 1-bedroom 75 - 79US$, 2 2-bedroom 120 - 139US$, 1 3-bedroom 149 - 170US$). PRW

Odessa Executive Suites F-3, Chervonyi prov. 1, tel.

Health Resorts
Kuyalnik Resort Kuyalnik Liman, tel. (+380) 48 751 51 13, fax (+380) 48 751 51 32, kuyalnik@ukr.net. www.kuyalnik.com.ua. Located on the coast 13 kilometres from the city centre, Kuyalniks sulphide silt mud is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Established in 1833, this is the oldest mud resort in Ukraine. Also, Kuyalnik mineral water has been proven to improve gastrointestinal function. Chabanka Rest Complex Hvardiyska 50, Chornomorske, Odesa Region, tel. (+380) 48 750 99 90, fax (+380) 48 750 99 76, chabanka@inbox.ru, www.chabanka.od.ua. Chabanka is located 30 kilometres from Odesa on the sea cost and surrounded by a large park with exotic flowers, lakes and fountains. Restaurant, bar, fitness centre, tennis court, billiard, golf field, swimming pool and guarded parking are for guests service. English speaking staff that can help with information and arranging excursions, taxis, etc.

Budget
725 74 16, info@mirage.od.ua, www.mirage.od.ua/ en/. Mirage is a popular seaside destination for families with small children. Rooms are modern and come with views of the sea or a courtyard garden. Air conditioner and cable TV come standard. The restaurant is open 24 hours and has an eclectic menu with tasty grill and fish items, a great kids section. Popular terrace seating is also available. Q12 rooms (12 doubles 650 - 750Hr). PKW Passage E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, tel. (+380) 48 728 55 00, fax (+380) 48 728 55 02, hotel@passagehotel.com.ua, passage-hotel.com.ua. Once a prestigious hotel, almost nothing has changed about this place since the Brezhnev years. The rooms amenities (i.e. the phone, facets and light fixtures) are working Soviet-era antiques. Though primitive, it has managed to keep some of its charm and offers an affordable alternative to the mega-price joints youll find on and around Deribasivska vul. The helpful staff speaks some English. A Georgian restaurant, bar and salon round-out the available services. Q132 rooms (23 economy 190 - 265Hr, 69 standard 316 - 516Hr, 36 junior suite 490 - 780Hr, 4 suite 915Hr). PA6LGK hh Shalanda Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48 787 10 10, www.shalanda.odessa.ua. Shalanda is located 30 metres from the beach and every room comes with a sea view. The hotel features four half-lux rooms (a bit tight) and two lux rooms. The European-Ukrainian restaurant offers up hearty dishes such as Waldorf salad, borsht, salmon, steaks and a succulent grill selection. Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served until 12:00 (perfect for late night partiers). Q6 rooms (4 junior suite 800Hr, 2 suite 1000Hr, extra bed 400 - 500Hr). P6GK

Apartment Rental
Odessa Apartments E-2, Hretska pl., Afina Centre,
7th floor, Suite 745, tel. (+380) 67 708 55 01/(+380) 67 484 52 36, info@odessaapts.com, www.odessaapts. com. Odessa Apartments offers a large variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Odesa. Apartments for every taste, budget and style both in the centre and near Arkadia beach. Free airport pick-up. Q studio from $49, 1-bedroom from $42, 2-bedroom from $74, 3-bedroom from $134. PA

Mirage I-5, Lanzheron beach, tel./fax (+380) 48

RoomMe - web portal of short-term apartment rent, tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, support@roomme.net,

www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date range of apartments in major cities of Ukraine and option to book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal messaging system to get from apartment owner all necessary details. Using a recommendation system, clients can share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. Q300 rooms (300 apartments 20 - 140).

Guest House
De Rishelie F-4, Rishelievska 30, tel. (+380) 48 785
16 53, derishele@gmail.com, www.derishele.od.ua. Very cosy atmosphere in a renovated mansion, with friendly staff speaking basic English in a good central location. All rooms are equipped with TV & WiFi. Q14 rooms (2 economy 350Hr, 8 standard 400Hr, 4 superior 450Hr). PARW

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Odesa In Your Pocket

Where to stay

19

Hostels
557 2690. Located in the heart of the historical Odessa centre and just a 5 minutes walk from the famous Deribasivska street and most of Odesa attractions.Kitchen has everything you will need and is equipped with a refrigerator cooker and tea making facilities. High speed internet access, TV, DVD player and air conditioning. Towels and sheets are included in the price. Q Bed mixed dorm from 20. PNW Antonys Home F-4, Troitska 45. Anthonys Home is located in the historical part of Odesa, within 5 minutes walking distance of the main street - Deribasivska, in a quiet and safe courtyard. It offers dorms for 8, 5 and 4 people (the last one with a balcony) and 1 room for couples and 1 room for 3 people (i.e. families), with windows facing the courtyard. There are 5 shared WC in hostel and also, a washing machine, a kitchen-studio with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Nearby there is a supermarket and a parking lot. Q Beds in mixed dorm from 10. W Golden Star Odessa E-3, Hretska 50, tel. (+380) 67 955 1954, www.letsbookhotel.com. Located in a quiet courtyard in the heart of Odesas historic Old Town, this hostel is just a 2-minute walk from the famous Deribasivska Street. Free Wi-Fi and a shared kitchen are featured here. Guests at the Hostel Golden Star Odessa stay in colourful dormitories, which have a shared bathroom in the hallway. The shared kitchen is ideal for preparing meals, and there are several restaurants and supermarkets within walking distance of the Golden Star. Q Bed in mixed dorm from 130Hr. GXW Magic Bus F-3, Pushinska 8, apt. 14, tel. (+380) 97 833 33 58, busofmagic@gmail.com, www.magicbushostel.com. Magic Bus Backpackers is a very nice location to stay during a trip. Its perfectly situated in the very centre of the city, an excellent place when you want to discover the city by day & night. The staff is very friendly and helpful, a big advantage if you dont know any Russian/Ukrainian. The rooms (2 dorms and 2 private ones) are quite clean. Theres

Ancient City Hostel E-1, Pastera, 24, tel. (+380) 67

one public laptop with internet you can use. For your service theres also full equipped kitchen with a fridge, microwave oven and everything you might need for cooking. Q doubles 33, dorms 11 - 13. PW Maryans Home G-2, Deribasivska 9, apt. 31, tel. (+380) 95 894 8508. Maryans Home is located in the main street of Odesa in a quiet and safe courtyard. (There is a code lock on the gate facing the street. To open it you have to press 3 and 8 at once.) It offers 2 dorms (first for 4 and second for 6 people) and 1 private bedroom (for 1 persone), with windows facing the courtyard. There is a shared bathroom and toilet with a washing machine. Theres also a kitchen with a refrigerator and a gas cooker. Other facilities include free tea and coffee all day. Q Bed in mixed dorm from 12. PW The Babushka Grand Hostel F-5, Mala Arnautska 60, 2nd floor, apt. 16, tel. (+380) 63 070 55 35, babushka. grand@gmail.com. The Babushka Grand hostel is in the city centre, 3 blocks from the train station. The hostel is a large spacious apartment with chandeliers and gold gilded ceilings, styled after the palace of an 18th century Odesa aristocrat. It has two balconies for lounging or smoking, two bathrooms and a large comfy communal area with couches and a TV. The kitchen is fully functional with a blender, microwave, stove, oven, spices, coffee grinder. The dorm room is beautiful and spacious. The private room is luxurious and decorated with classic furniture. Q (doubles 375Hr, 4-bed dorms 160Hr, 10-bed dorms 125Hr). Bed in mixed dorm from 125Hr. PW TIU Front Page E-2, Koblevska 42, tel. (+380) 44 96 834 40 74, tiu.frontpage@gmx.com. The hostel consists of a large and airy 13 bed Dorm Room with a small private balcony overlooking the cobbled street; another large 11 bed Dorm Room; and 2 Private Double Rooms. There is a Common Room with sofas, TV, and a Book-Swap Library; 3 shower stalls, and 3 toilets;a large dining/entertaining area;.and a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare their own food. Free Security Lockers for every guest are the great touch. Q 2 doubles 18, 2 dorms 11. Bed in mixed dorm from 12.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2012

20

Restaurants
Symbol key
P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly T Child friendly A Credit cards accepted I Fireplace L Guarded parking V Home delivery E Live music G Non-smoking areas X Smoking section B Terrace W Wi-Fi internet access

Gourmets Haven
Odesa has always been a haven for gourmets (even during poor old Soviet times), but the boom in quality and diversity that has taken place over the past decade is unprecedented. The infusion of new cuisine into an already ethnically rich culinary tradition resulted in an impressive range of options including American, French, Jewish, Mexican, Greek, Italian, Spanish, Asian, Ukrainian, Middle-Eastern and more. In the historic centre, youre never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience. Odesas proximately to the sea means culinary utopia for fish lovers. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that our guide serves as the solution to what can be an overwhelming question: Whats for dinner?

U Facilities for the disabled S Take away

Ukrainian
Alpina-varenychnaya F-4, Rishelievska 38, tel. (+380) 482 35 81 52. This is a quaint and pleasant caf of SwissUkrainian dcor not far from the centre. It is conveniently divided into 2 distinct sections, smoking and non-smoking. The staff is young, friendly and speaks some English. An English menu displays their tasty meals and snacks. We tried the homemade cherry varenyki and it hit the spot! It is a great place if one enjoys the constant blaring of techno music. Also at F-2, Katerynynska 10. Gallery F-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. (+380) 482 33 23 89. Throughout the warm months the restaurant makes use of delightful and popular park-front terrace. When its cold, the restaurant is located on the second floor of the Gallery building. The first floor is home to one of citys biggest flower markets. Proceed through this aromatic maze to the spiral staircase. Once on the second floor youll find a tasteful restaurant wrapped in lush greenery. The menu is a smorgasbord of culinary favourites. Ukrainian dominates but youll also find French, Mexican and even a Waldorf salad. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTAEG Khutorok u Morya I-4, Shevchenkos Park, Lanzheron Beach, tel. (+380) 48 735 38 73, www.xutor-ok.com. The restaurant offers tribute in the form of a menu loaded with traditional Ukrainian cuisine. With an unmatched setting on the edge of Taras Shevchenko Park near Lanzheron Beach, this is an extremely popular summer destination and is a wonderful place for travellers to acquaint themselves with traditional local cuisine. Live Ukrainian folk music, a childrens playground and proximately to summer attractions makes this a top pick for families. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTA6LVEBSW Kumanets F-2, Havanna 7, tel. (+380) 482 37 69 46. We took a couple visiting from America to Kumanets. An Idaho farm boy and a butchers daughter from Californias cattle country, our friends are used to the finest, freshest, tastiest cuts of meat. Dishes at this Ukrainian themed eatery rip will flavour: we knew our guests wouldnt be disappointed. Indeed, this was the culinary highlight of their trip. The pork dishes drip with succulence and the hearty soups are meals in themselves. Ukrainian tradition requires that diners throw back a shot of samohon (homemade vodka) to stimulate appetite before indulging. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAGBS Pechki da Lavochki E-5, Mala Arnautska 109, tel.
(+380) 48 722 18 48. The name derives from a special Ukrainian dish, baked chicken with garlic. The design is unique, like being transported to a Ukrainian village. The Ukrainian menu is moderately priced and filled with specialties. There is also a very completive sushi menu with pictures. So if you dont speak Russian, bring a translator or order Sushi. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PGB

Ukrainska Lasunka F-2, Deribasivska 17, tel. (+380)

48 725 84 12/(+380) 48 731 54 27, www.lakomka. com.ua. With such a vibrant 19th century Ukrainian village atmosphere its easy to imagine what it must have been like to dine at Taras Shevchenkos cottage, and the menu (in English) doesnt miss a dish from babushkas cookbook. Its to your advantage to be a bit loud yet jovial as the wait staff is either very busy or busy being lethargic. This technique works in drawing attention in a good way. Not surprising for a city by the sea, they have an extensive seafood selection. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PAEGSW

Bootlegger F-1, Viiskovyi uzviz 6, tel. (+380) 48 740 54 14, www.bootlegger.od.ua. Yes, this does have something do with the bootlegging days of Al Capone. There are many pictures on the walls that cover the prohibition era, some include Al & friends, and there are two Thompson machines on display. Many labels of whisky are on stock and can be bought at shop prices. There is even a 30% whisky discount on Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Fridays from 12:00-21:00. The cuisine is international with some interesting dishes such as the Ribs we tried for only 69Hr. They were smothered with a delicious honey sauce and covered with Jack Daniels. The average meal costs around 300Hr for 2 including whisky. There is a business Lunch every day from 12:00-17:00 for 50Hr. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. W Steakhouse: Meat and Wine F-2, Deribasivska 20, tel. (+380) 482 34 87 82, www.steak.od.ua. The locals like to congregate out front and pose with the statue of the red and white zebra-striped cow, but inside its all about the beef and vino (wine). There are many delicious dishes on the menu that dont include beef, but dont be ridiculous! The sirloin here is so succulent that youll think youve been beamed from Odesa, Ukraine to Odessa, Texas. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTA6GBXW

American

Indian
London E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. (+380)
48 784 53 78, www.london-hotel.com.ua. A much welcomed addition to Odesas culinary scene has landed at the London Hotel: wonderful spicy Indian cuisine! Luscious lamb, chicken and fish dishes fill a menu that also includes delicious vegetarian (a rarity in Ukraine). The art of seasoning is on display, as the kitchen masterfully wields curry, coriander, cardamom, red and green chilli, cinnamon, saffron, etc., etc. As with all facets of this elegant hotel, expect a hospitable atmosphere and impeccable service. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. . PALGSW

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
Asian
www.devarana.com.ua. We felt we were transported to Thailand the first moment we entered. Devarana is not just a restaurant; its a museum, a shrine to the Thai royal family, a gallery, gift shop, boutique, and a spa with authentic Thai message. The dcor is mahogany, gold, porcelain, almost indescribable. The cuisine is Thai, Sushi, and European, and well priced to fit the experience. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. SPA 10:00 - 23:00. PALVGBXSW Kobe G-2, Lanzheronivska 9, tel. (+380) 48 726 98 06, www.kobe.odessa.ua. Authentic Japanese food located right in front of the Opera. The design is traditional Japanese which has won major prizes. The food is cooked by the chef right at the table. Only fresh and natural products are used. The specialty we tried was the delicious Kobe Beef accompanied by one of their famous handmade desserts. English menu with reasonable prices. There is a beautiful aquarium and childrens corner. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PTALVGBSW Tito G-2, Rishelievska 5, tel. (+380) 482 33 80 89, www. tito.od.ua. This is a lovely new addition to the Odesa restaurant scene. Located near the centre, its easy to find as a giant Buddha sits in the window. We wisely chose not to sit directly behind it. There is real Japanese food not just Sushi! There is also European food and the menu is in English. An average menu will run you about 250Hr. Live music is preformed every Friday & Saturday from 20:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. VEW Tokyo House G-3, Rishelievska 11, tel. (+380) 48 784 88 48. Got the munchies? What better cure for your predicament than sushi? Tokyo House is open 24/7 throughout the summer season, and reverts to regular hours in the fall. They offer a 20% discount on all menu items from 02:00 - 16:00. If youre not in the mood for something raw, check out the scrumptious selection of hot dishes. English menu is available. QOpen 24hrs. . POALVGBSW Yakitoriya F-4, Rishelievska 27, tel. (+380) 482 36 47 80, www.yakitoriya.od.ua. Known for its stunning and stylish interior, Yakitoriya was actually featured in the Russian magazine entitled Best Interiors. Indeed, even the exterior dining area is stunning and stops many patrons from even entering the main dining hall. Not to be outdone, the itamae whips up some of the most flavourful and elegantly arranged sushi in town. Also at F-2, Deribasivska 15, (+380) 48 777 02 03. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTAGBSW Yokohama F-2, Deribasivska 26, tel. (+380) 482 35 66 00, www.yokohama.net.ua. Specialising in Japanese with a little spicy Thai mixed in, Yokohamas prime location on Deribasivska vul. will keep you put long after youve demolished the satisfying grub. The cool atmosphere, superb service and comfy outdoor seating will have you coming back for all your sushi cravings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. P6GBS

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Devarana Tenysta 9/12, tel. (+380) 48718 18 18,

Bulgarian
4 B o l g a r i a n a ( Fo u r B u l g a r i a n s ) F - 4 ,
Katerynynska 54/56, tel. (+380) 48 784 04 10. We found 4 Bolgarina to be a welcome detour from the mainstream. Everything bursts with unique flavour, especially the exciting traditional Bulgarian salads, cheeses and the Bulgarski sach (large fillets of chicken, veal or pork roasted with vegetables and served in a wine sauce). Each week the chef offers up a new dish of his own creation! Dont fret if you left your Bulgarian dictionary in Varna, the menu is in English and the accommodating, mostly English speaking staff will help you make the right selection. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PALVGBS

Odessian
Compot F-2, Deribasivska 20, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 75, www.compot.ua. Compot is a beloved traditional Ukrainian beverage with a simple recipe: take some fruit, add water, boil it down, dont forget to sweeten and whala youve just created a tasty refreshment. The caf embodies the recipe in that its simple, delicious and has a very sweet location right in middle of Deribasivska vul. A popular coffee and sandwich hangout for local youths, exciting specials are on offer from 9:00 - 12:00. Also at F-5, Panteleimonivska 70, tel. (+380) 482 34 51 45. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. . PTAGBXSW Dacha Frantsuzkyiv bulv. 85/15, tel. (+380)
48 714 31 19, www.dacha.com.ua. Like being at a Russian style dacha. This is a unique opportunity not to be missed. Situated in a colonial mansion with beautiful gardens. There is smoking and non-smoking sections and a supervised childrens area. The walls are white washed with wooden floors and the bathrooms are cast iron. The menus are hand written in English and moderately priced. The gardens are lovely and spacious with a fountain. There is seating for over 150. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTA6IL GBXSW

Akvarel Sonaichna 5, tel. (+380) 48 785 08 96/(+380) 67 515 11 78, www.akvarel.org.ua. Fancy great grilled meat? While not in the centre, this is a great place to eat. The menu is in English and the cuisine is European, with lots of grilled dishes to choose from. We got the grilled veal with Roquefort cheese sauce - quite tasty! An average meal goes for 200Hr, and they also have a great wine list. There is seating for 100+ and they do banquets and conferences. Again we had a problem finding the non-smoking section, as if they only want smokers as guests? All in all, its well worth the visit. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00. A odesa.inyourpocket.com

European

Jazzy Buzzy H-4, Uspenska 19, tel. (+380) 48 784 53 46, 777 72 71, www.jazzy-buzzy.com.ua. Quite an interesting place with good - round the clock food. There is seating for 60+ with non-smoking on the terraces. The staff was great & spoke some English. Their specialty is old Odesa cuisine - everything is fresh and natural. And yes, they also have a sushi menu. An average meal costs around 200-300Hr per person and its well worth it! There is a great barbeque menu as well as a breakfast menu served from 07:0010:00. Every night there is live music and it varies; jazz, funk, Latin, etc. QOpen 24hrs. PAEGBW Klarabara F-2, The City Garden, tel. (+380) 48 741 33 31, www.klarabara-apt.od.ua. Smack dab in the centre is this lovely ivy covered caf. Frilled with antique furniture and always different paintings and photographs on display in the roving art gallery. Reasonably priced with European, Odesa style food and a Mediterranean grill. There is a spacious terrace for eating right in the park. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PGBW August - October 2012

22

Restaurants
Brewery
Lustdorf Lustdorfska doroha 140B, tel. (+380) 48
777 96 77, www.lustdorf.com. This beer restaurant is popular for its relaxing atmosphere and traditional fresh German brew. The original European menu has garnered a following among locals and expats alike. Find a comfy niche in one of the three halls or on the terrace, and feast on mouth-watering items from the grill. The brewing process is on display, and theres also a store selling mugs and other paraphernalia. Concerts, live music and enthralling shows draw crowds on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. . PTALEBS

Boulevard E-2, Katerynynska pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48

777 03 39, en.bulvar-odessa.com. The combination of climbing Potyomkin Stairs and the fresh sea breeze can really kick start the appetite. Could it be a conspiracy or is it just fortuitous that this exquisite European restaurant is located just steps away from the statue of Duc de Richelieu? Famous for its seafood, soups and its simple but romantic ambiance, Boulevards popularity is easy to justify. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTAEGBSW 34 97 57, www.chaspik.com.ua. If your car breaks down on the road from Arkadia Beach back to centre, this is a fine place to hold up and wait for the tow truck. They offer a substantial selection of hot and cold appetisers, soups and salads. The meat dishes, i.e. the grand veal and the flounder in a signature sauce, are a bit pricey, but arrive to the table in relatively large portions. The neighbourhood can be described as rundown industrial but the restaurant is a class above the surroundings and has the fastest Wi-Fi connection weve yet to encounter here in Odesa. No English menu available, but the servers are fluent enough to help you through the ordering process. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. . PAILVEGBSW

Chas Pik (Rush Hour) Henuezka 1, tel. (+380) 482

Self-service
While the West may have its fast-food chains, we here in the East have something far better: self-service restaurants. These low budget marvels offer a wide variety of fresh, boiled, fried and baked dishes all laid out before the client ready to be mixed and matched. It may not be sophisticated, but it is cheap and cheerful and the foods surprisingly good. budget, family friendly, the Puzata Khata located on the sixth floor of the Europa shopping centre (Deribasivska 21) offers one of the most exhilarating views of the historic city centre. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill the belly for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. . PAUGS

Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 37 77

Puzata Khata F-2, Deribasivska 21. Albeit a low

Zharu-Paru F-3, Hretska 45, tel. (+380) 48 726 75 33. If you were ever traumatized by the high school lunchroom, youre likely to experience flash-backs as you enter Zharu-Paru. However, the convenient locations and value for hryvnia make this an essential stop for those strapped for cash or time. Traditional Ukrainian is available for your selection and the service comes with a hint of a smile. Also at G-4, Uspenska 28/30; E-1, Pastera 11. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. . PAS

77, www.mozart-hotel.com. Located just opposite the opera, this gorgeous restaurant is in the lovely, classical Mozart Hotel. The interior seems to transport one back to the time of Mozart; in fact the many flat screen TVs seemed out of place. (Was Wolfie really a Man-United fan?) The cuisine is European/Ukrainian and there is a real French chef. One of their specialties is the Black Sea fish, and an average meal costs around 250Hr. There is a business lunch for groups costing 150Hr. It seats 80, with room for banquets. QOpen 07:00 - 00:00. PALGBS 48 780 03 00, www.park.od.ua. At first we thought we were in a tennis club. Its really a great restaurant with Thai, Japanese, and European cuisine. An average meal will cost around 500Hr. There are lots of extras. Aside from the tennis courts, dont forget your bathing suit as there is a full size swimming pool. A great way to spice up (or cool down) your private party here. There is also a kids playground and seating for 200 inside and hundreds more outside. There is also karaoke every night from 21:00-01:00. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PAIL VGBSW

Park Residense Frantsuzkyi bulvar 85, tel. (+380)

Pizza
Marios Pizza F-2, Katerynynska 7, tel. (+380) 48
711 77 29. Italian always fills the hole. This joint has a family friendly atmosphere and all the tasty Italian dishes youd expect from a place called Marios. The lasagna took forever, but was worth the wait. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. . PTAGBSW

Zara Pizzara G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 728 88 88. Zaras atmosphere is lively, but not too rowdy; making it perfect for the whole family. The Italian fare is robust, aromatic and reasonably priced. Highlights include fresh spinach salads, lasagne and juicy pork and veal dishes. The calzone was a bit salty, but tasty nonetheless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PTAGBSW
1 = 9.75Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; 1 = 12.53Hr

Valdai F-2, Katerynynska pl. 3, tel. (+380) 48 722 67 37, www.valday.com.ua. A lovely designed restaurant with European / Italian cuisine. The staff was friendly & warm and spoke some English as did the menu. We tried the duck drumsticks with crpes and veggies for 135Hr. It was a first for us and we really enjoyed it! An average meal for 2 costs around 500Hr. And dont forget to check out the great wine list. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PALGSW Varadero I-5, Lidersovskyi bulvar 17, tel. (+380) 482
37 34 06, www.varadero.od.ua. A great eatery with an English menu and tasty European cuisine. It seats 60+ and there is a terrace for warm weather. We still havent figured out why they dont have a non-smoking area. We tried the veal steak with cream sauce and grilled lamb ribsboth superb! An average meal runs about 200-300Hr per person and they have many great deserts to choose from. QOpen 10:00 - 00:30. PALGW

(23 June 2012 official rates) Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants
French
Caf Sophie F-1, Nekrasova prov. 7, tel. (+380) 48
737 55 52. Cosy and stylish restaurant is located on the first floor of the Frederic Koklen Hotel. If youre an early bird this place is just for you - breakfast is serving from 07:30. However its highly recommended to come here in the evening also, when live piano music, candlelight and delicate dishes will make your evening relaxing. The menu offers European, French and authentic Odessian cuisine. There is also a huge selection of wine and deserts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PALGW

23

ODESA KYIV PRAGUE

La Veranda G-3, Bunina 21, tel. (+380) 482 34 74 01.

La Veranda prides itself on freshness. Indeed, the recent trend in Odesa has been to ignore freshness by packing the menu with an insane number of selections thus confusing the customer to the point when freshness becomes an illusion. Its refreshing to find a menu chopped down to a delectable untarnished shortlist. The country French fish soup, pt and the province style lamb with stuffed vegetables all attest to the brilliance of La Verandas simple plan. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PALEGBSW

Columbus Nvoberehova 90, tel. (+380) 48 728 00 05, www.columbus-odessa.com.ua. Set overlooking the sea, Columbus has been enticing diners and connoisseurs since its opening in 2004. Head chef Igor Kramarenko is known for his ability to push the culinary envelope and has established many local trends. The fresh seafood dishes are some of Odesas finest: choose from scallop carpaccio, tiger shrimps wrapped in rice paper and smothered in a signature sauce or lobster fried with white mushrooms. The menu also offers seasonal surprises to bolster an established repertoire of Japanese, Thai, Scandinavian and Mediterranean cuisine. The veranda and courtyard offer fabulous views and the opportunity to inhale a complement of fresh sea air. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAULVGBSW MamaCasalla G-7, Matrosova prov. 1, tel. (+380) 482 399 77 71, www.mamacasalla.com. A spacious restaurant a bit out of the centre, but well worth the visit! You will be greeted by some of the most beautiful fish you have ever seen! There is something happening every evening from 20:30. Hen parties, charades, childrens parties & much more; including a Disco every Friday & Saturday. The cuisine is a combination of Odessian, European, Italian, and Mediterranean. (With a sushi menu thrown in for good measure.) An average menu runs about 150-200Hr with wine. There is a great business lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00. Its just 60Hr and there is a 20% discount off the main menu as well. QOpen 09:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. TEW

Fusion

21, BUNINA STR., TEL.: 34-74-01


WWW.LAVERANDA.COM.UA

Georgian
Khizhina Dovzhenka 3/5, tel. (+380) 48 787 01 37,
www.hijina.com.ua. Dont have time to visit Georgia? Stop by Khizhina for authentic Georgian food. The dcor is, well Georgian of course and the servers all wear cute little costumes and are quite charming themselves, though they could use some English lessons. This is the sister of another Khizhina that is located near the airport. The menu is not in English so its a bit of a struggle, but prices are reasonable-from 200-300Hr per person. They have great barbequed stuff as well as traditional Georgian dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AB

La Veranda prides itself on freshness. Indeed, the recent trend in Odesa has been to ignore freshness by packing the menu with an insane number of selections thus confusing the customer to the point when freshness becomes an illusion. Its refreshing to nd a menu chopped down to a delectable untarnished shortlist. The country French sh soup, pt and the province style lamb with stu ed vegetables all attest to the brilliance of La Verandas simple plan.
August - October 2012

odesa.inyourpocket.com

24

Restaurants
Jewish
03 74. Located under the Great Choral synagogue in the heart of Odesa. Great affordable kosher food, with seating for 80. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. P

Casa Nova G-2, Deribasivska 4, tel. (+380) 482 33

Hevron F-4, Rishelievska 30, tel. (+380) 48 715

54 55. A fantastic choice for starting or ending a romantic evening, this exclusive restaurant is crisscrossed by nearly all of Odesas romantic strolling routes. Italian lovers wont be disappointed as the inventive fresh fish and grill items perfectly compliment the homemade pasta. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. . PTJALVEG BSW

Rozmarin G-5, Mala Arnautska 46A, tel. (+380) 482 34 46 44/(+390) 482 34 73 11, www.rosemarinoodessa.ua. This kosher restaurant is located between the Centre and the train station. The decor is simple seaside and the prices moderate. Special Israeli style dishes are served. Very friendly staff with some English spoken. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Mimino H-4, Zhukovskoho 2, tel. (+380) 482 33 25

Italianskiy Kvartal (Italian Quarter) F-3, Zhukovskoho 31, tel. (+380) 48 785 20 73, www.pizza-kvartal. com. An Italian restaurant, part of a local chain. It is something like a small museum, with many lovely items on display. The design is very impressive! The menu is authentic Italian with quite reasonable prices. You wont be disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Sun 11:00 - 00:00. PALG Picknick F-3, Katerynynska 23, tel. (+380) 48 725 00 09, www.picnic-cafe.com. Walking in, we were immediately impressed with the lovely Roman design. While not so large, the atmosphere is inviting. English menu offers mainly Italian cuisine; it also has Caucasian dishes and a Sushi menu, along with an excellent wine list. Prices are reasonable for this enjoyable eating experience. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PALGBXW Tavernetta F-4, Katerynynska 45, tel. (+380) 0482 34 46 21, www.tavernetta.ua. Tavernetta is a lovely provincial Italian restaurant in the heart of Odesa. A great place for pasta lovers! In Tavernettas menu you will find the kind of dishes that a simple Italian housewife loves to cook for her family. The flour, olive oil, cheese, capers, anchovies are Italian. All other ingredients are the best Ukrainian products available. Tavernetta suggests you start your day with a good Italian espresso and a panini sandwich. The prices are quite reasonable, and there is also a shop where one can purchase food, wine, and culinary souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. TAULEGBXSW Voyage G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. (+380) 48 786 03
93, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Voyage is owned and operated by the luxurious Continental hotel and offers one of the most elegant dining experiences in Odesa. Fresh seafood items highlight a menu of unmatched European tradition and zest. Steaks and other meat dishes drip with flavour, but again the seafood on offer is not to be missed and includes a fabulous sea bass and dorado dish. Every Saturday, an enticing one day only fresh seafood selection is shipped in special from the Mediterranean. After dinner, smokers may revel in the unique flavour of a Fortuna cigar and this is the only place in town where you can sip on a Birra Moretti. The wine card is also impressive with fantastic French, Italian and Spanish vintages. All servers are professional, abide by western standards and are fluent in English. Breakfast starts at 07:00. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. . PTAULVEGBSW

08/(+380) 482 33 25 09. This Georgian restaurant boasts a remarkable menu, which includes vegetarian dishes. Descending into the cellar seating, its easy to imaging life in a quaint Caucasian village. The relaxed atmosphere demands that one indulge and theres plenty to indulge in. The wine selection is enormous and the dishes are authentically luscious. After dinner, kick back in one of the plush sofas, suck on a hookah and enjoy the live music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTALVEGBSW

Pirosmani F-3, Hretska 35, tel. (+380) 48 701 12 06.

Named after the famous Georgian painter Niko Pirosmani. Its a nice place in the centre, where feels no longer in Ukraine, but in Georgia, complete with Georgian TV. The staff is warm and friendly and tries to speak some English as does their menu. Great Georgian menu with affordable prices. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PLG

International
Basilic G-3, Deribasivska 1, tel. (+380) 482 32 84 84. Basilic has a traditional caf style menu with crpes, omelettes, soups, desserts, shakes and an arousing coffee selection. Anyone interested in visual art should visit. The caf hosts exhibitions of intriguing work by local artists. The accommodating staff and reasonable prices are both welcome pluses. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTAILVEGBSW Pecheskago F-2, Havanna 10/12, tel. (+380) 48 726
09 79, www.pecheskago.od.ua. Pecheskago gets our pick for the most enchanting dining experience. Throughout the winter, enjoy the view of City Park wrapped inside a domed glass enclosure. The dome comes off in the summer to reveal a terrace perfect for an exclusive outdoor dining experience. Enjoy inventive arrangements of local and European favourites such as Chteau Bryon and Black Sea flounder. Dont forget to take a fat wallet. Its not that menu items are over the top price wise, but the vibes have a way of keeping you in your seat ordering more. Live music every night during the summer season and Thursday - Sunday during the colder months. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTJA6LEGBSW

Mediterranean
85, www.bernardazzi.od.ua. This unique restaurant is located in the famous Odesa landmark building The New Stock Exchange. It was designed by the famous Russian architect Alexander Bernardazzi and built in the 1890s. It is now home to the Odesa Philharmonic. The cuisine is Mediterranean, Odesa flavour, and a Japanese menu, available in English and reasonably priced. The inside holds up to 150 and in the summer there is a Renaissance style summer patio. There are regular concerts, parties and cultural events. This place is definitely worth a visit. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PALEGW

Bernardazzi G-3, Bunina 15, tel. (+380) 48 785 55

Italian
Casa Italia F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. (+380) 48 726 96 26, www.pizzaitaliano.info. This is pretty close to real Italian food! A great variety of pizzas and pastas. We tried the grilled salmon which was delicious. The kitchen is open late, menu is in English, and the prices very reasonable. Seating available for 40+. The service was friendly and quick. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PG Odesa In Your Pocket

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Restaurants
T H E C H A I N O F FAV O U R I T E P I Z Z E R I A S

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Preobrazhenskaya, 72 Marshala Govorova, 18 Preobrazhenskaya, 62 Dobrovolskogo, 129 Zabolotnogo, 52 Zhukovskogo, 31 Illichivsk, Lenina, 20B Ekateriniskaya, 8/10

Porto F-3, Zhukovskoho 33, tel. (+380) 48 737 38 38.

Porto prides itself on offering Odesas freshest selection of seafood from the Black Sea and Mediterranean. The ambiance is modestly elegant, but prices arent too over the top making this a must for fish lovers rich and poor. However, the price on many fish items is listed per 100 grams; ask your server the approximate size of your selection in order to cut down on confusion when receiving the bill. The method of preparation is up to you, items may be sauted, steam boiled or grilled. The menu also pulsates with a variety of fresh salads, pasta dishes, fresh squeezed juices, etc. They stage great holiday specials and entertainment events such as art demonstrations, occasional live music and showings of Chornomorets football games. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTABSW

Mexican
Estrelita F-2, Katerynynska 1, tel. (+380) 482 37 29 20. Two things that really stood out about visit to Estrelita: fantastic stuffed jalapeos and the bartender who served us was a real condescending jerk. He gave a good ribbing and kept calling me Yankee - silly khokhol (Russian slang for a Ukrainian). In spite of it all, Ill be back. Next time Ill sit at a table, enjoy the service of one of the lovely waitresses and devour a chimichanga with rabbit. Tango lessons and live music on Saturdays. QOpen 24hrs. . PTAUEB Tequila House F-5, Mala Arnautska 69, tel. (+380) 482 33 93 22. Its a sociological fact that more surprise pregnancies can be linked to the consumption of tequila than any other booze on the market, and this cantina proudly serves 20 different brands (Sauza, Rio Grande, Sierra, etc.). Though Mexican cuisine is difficult to authenticate beyond the Mexican boarder, Tequila House comes close. The chimichangas are bursting, the fajitas are always sizzling and the appetisers are just about spicy enough to fool you. This is a fantastic venue for a small party and hungry kids. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PLVGSW

Chervonyi Lobster (Red Lobster) H-3, Marazliivska 1G, tel. (+380) 48 715 02 22. Youll notice right away that this is not a part of the popular American Red Lobster franchise - an unfortunate association for such an elegant restaurant. The enchanting immaculate interior and the unmatched selection of exquisite seafood make this one of Odesas most popular dining destinations. The fresh lobster is an obvious favourite as is the open-air courtyard. The live piano adds another level of lure to the ambiance. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTALEGBS City Time Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, Morskoy Hotel, tel. (+380) 482 33 90 55, www.morskoy.com. A part of the Morskoy Hotel complex, the location and elegant atmosphere more than justify the fifteen minute taxi ride. Choose from a variety of succulent dishes including grilled sturgeon and salmon, shrimp and scallops. If youre not in the mood for fish, try one of the tantalizing beef, pork or mutton dishes. Allow us to recommend a romantic after dinner stroll - City Time is located just metres from the beach. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. . PTALVEGBSW Crab House F-2, Deribasivska 13, tel. (+380) 48 772 50 70, www.frapolli-hotel.com/pages/rybnoemenu/. Right in the centre, a great place for seafood! The first floor is nice, but the ceilings on the second floor are practically indescribable - beautifully coloured circles - you should see for yourself. The menu is in English and offers many various dishes including the lobster for only 900Hr. An average menu runs about 250Hr, and there is a business lunch for 100Hr offered around the clock. QOpen 24hrs. ABW.

Seafood

Spanish
Sevilla G-3, Bunina 16, tel. (+380) 482 32 10 32,
www.sevilla.od.ua. Viva Espaa! Not far from the centre, is an authentic Spanish restaurant. There is an English menu and the staff is very friendly and speaks English. There are many tasty dishes with paella being one of their specialties. An average meal costs circa 250Hr. Weekends bring you live music with Flamenco dancing performed on Saturdays. Its worth going just for the show! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PTAGB

Russian
Aleksandrovskiy H-5, Bielinskoho 13, tel. (+380) 48
725 11 11, www.aleksandrovskiy.com.ua. Housed in a mansion built at the time of Russian Emperor Alexander II and was a haven for musicians and art lovers. It was owned by the famous Odesa merchant Joseph Konelskiy, philanthropist and collector. There are VIP tours available. We saw beautiful paintings and collections of crystal and porcelain on display. There is a wine cellar and cigar room. Handmade cigars were a specialty of the past and still available. The cuisine is Russian and French. There is an English menu and someone there to speak all major languages. Prices are moderate to pricy. We tried the Cutlet Alekandrovskaya which was fantastic. Like eating in a museum! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGW

Turkish
Bosfor G-5, Kanatna 68, tel. (+380) 48 728 10 97. It
may seem a bit out of the way, but is you want really good Turkish food and very reasonable prices, then the Bosfor is the place for you! The cuisine is authentic Turkish with real Turkish chefs. The menu is in Russian but they speak English ok. A great meal can be had for 100-150Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00.

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August - October 2012

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Restaurants Nightlife CAFS


Bunin F-3, Bunina 29, tel. (+380) 482 34 58 51. Although
this caf is a trend follower rather than a setter (i.e. Fashion TV, sushi, DJs) its designed with some real class and is worth checking out. A tasty selection of soups, salads, pasta, steaks and grilled meats are on hand. DJ sets add some flavour Friday and Saturday, and a saxophonist entertains every Sunday. The stylish yet relaxing ambiance affirms Bunins motto: Its not important where you work...its important where you rest. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. POA6LGBSW Fanconi 1872 F-2, Katerynynska 15/17, tel. (+380) 482 34 66 66. Fanconi was established in 1872 making it Odesas oldest caf. That said, there is very little linking this famed caf to its noteworthy past: disappointing for those hoping to sneak a peak into Odesas history, exciting for locals craving only those things glitzy, fashionable and new. Perhaps the only features to have remained constant throughout its history are the scrumptious desserts. Sushi is the craze these days and Fanconi has not merely jumped onto the Japanese bandwagon, but is apparently steering it. They offer an ample selection of sushi and the karaoke lounge kicks off nightly at 20:00. Other mentionables include fantastic terrace seating on a more or less quiet intersection and a modish energetic crowd. QOpen 24hrs. PALBSW 44, www.franzol.com.ua. Originally known as the pavilion of Artesian mineral waters founded back in 1826 by imperial decree. It is located in the City Garden and has been restored according to the original drawings. Today, Franzol Cafe combines all that the pearl of the sea has acquired over many years. One gets the feeling of being a real citizen of Odesa. The cuisine is Ukrainian/European, and the menu is in English. An average meal will run around 150-200Hr. and there are oodles of discounts available; take away - 15%, breakfast menu before 10:00, 10%, family discount,10%, birthday discount,20%, and a Monday discount, (after 16:00) 10%.Visit Franzol, taste the flavour of the city, and you wont be disappointed! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTAUEGBXSW instead. The price was right and the shade and sea breeze on the terrace was just what the doctor ordered. Great daily, breakfast and business lunch specials are available. Get two cocktails for the price of one from 21:00 - 22:00. QOpen 24hrs. P6UVBSW

Paradnaya No 1 E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 702 73 94/(+380) 48 716 53 93. The indoor seating is incredibly homey. Its like sitting down for a meal at your aunts house. Everything about the atmosphere is familiar: from the comfy stripe-pattern sofa to the cockatoo chirping in the corner. Out front youll find a small but popular patio. The menu offers a robust selection of salads, traditional soups and tasty meat and fish dishes. Those dishes with familiar western names are actually bastardized versions of the real thing. The Caesar salad, for example, consists of chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, cheddar cheese, smoked ham, croutons, boiled quail eggs and mayonnaise. Where they found this recipe is anyones guess. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW Robin-Bobin E-3, Soborna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 0482 33
21 23. This franchised cafe is scattered throughout Odesa at various places of interest. Each location caters to diners seeking fast quality food in a casual setting. The cosy interior and friendly staff creates a warm and friendly atmosphere. With delicious cuisine and affordable prices, Robin-Bobin cafes are a favourite spot for the residents of Odesa. Whatever you would try; Zingaro pork, Norwegian salmon, cakes from Bobin, or homemade chicken sausages everything is very tasty, perfectly cooked and quickly served-with very reasonable prices. Be sure to try this unique experience on your next visit to Odesa. Also at: E-1, Torhova 1, tel.: (+380) 482 35-75-65); Frantzuzkyi bulv. 22, tel.: (+380) 48 785-26-04; F-5, Mala Arnautska 64, tel.: (+380) 48 785-59-33; G-7, Kanatna 101B, tel.: (+380) 482 35-79-91); Varlamova 8, tel.: (+380) 482 32-93-09. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTVGBXSW

Franzol F-2, Deribasivska 22a, tel. (+380) 482 34 10

Grand Prix F-3, Bunina 24, tel. (+380) 48 785 07 01. Grand Prix has a laid back Italian caf meets motor sports theme to it. Local and European dishes dominate the menu; the leafy green salads and select splattering of fish dishes are particularly palate-arousing. They put out great seasonal and breakfast specials such as an omelette with vegetables, baguette with grilled sausages, veal on the bone with ratatouille, etc. Quaint seating on two levels is available along with cosy street side tables. We stopped in for a cappuccino, which arrived to the table with a shot of rich chocolate and a smile. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00. POA6ILGBSW Maner () E-2, Soborna pl. 4, tel. (+380) 48 731 57 77. A gigantic Hugh Jackman gawked at us with his trademark smirk from across the room as we sipped our tasty tea. Maner falls into the category we like to call Odesian chic. Fancy draperies, uncomfortable comfortable-looking chairs, two turn tables, sushi, hookah, etc. The menu is eclectic enough to satisfy all in your party with the most note worthy items being the iced coffees (latte, mochachino and frappuccino) a rarity for this part of the world. No English menu but the staff is fluent. This is more of a meet-up-before-clubbing joint, rather than a morning coffee place. QOpen 10:00 03:00. PAILW Marrakesh H-5, Bazarna 19, tel. (+380) 48 737 35 86. Youll have to wade through a mix mash of Ukrainian, American and Italian dishes to find anything associated with Marrakesh; on the other hand, the menu does offer something for all tastes. We gave up on ordering Moroccan and went for the borsht, peppered steak (quite tasty) and mashed potatoes Odesa In Your Pocket

Sakhar H-4, Uspenska 5, tel. (+380) 48 724 61 15. It was 9:35, and was jonesing for my morning cup of joe. This place doesnt open until 10:00! I sulked, paced, cursed and kicked the curb like a ravenous mental patient. Finally, the doors opened and instant satisfaction! Sakhar has breakfast starting at 16Hr and coffee, the elixir of life. The owner declared the coffee to be the best in the city. You be the judge. Theyre also adequately equipped to handle lunch and dinner. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. P6LS Shef Caf G-2, Hretska 19, tel. (+380) 48 728 77 55, www.shefcafe.com. Lovely, bright simple design, with friendly staff and English menu. Traditional Odessa cuisine and a European breakfast menu. We tried the house specialty, herringfroshmark, herring with potatoes - delicious! There are homemade drinks, sports TV, and Disco music on Saturday and Sunday. There is outside seating in the Summer, and best of all its round the clock service. QOpen 24 hrs. PAGW
(+380) 482 32 12 00. The entrance to this British (no sh** Sherlock) theme caf is actually on Bunina. Many of the dishes have extremely vivid names, i.e. Stubborn Billy Salad, dont teach your grandmother to suck eggs breakfast and salmon in two sauces (so what if the name of the salmon dish isnt witty, it certainly is delicious). Their specialties come from the grill with the sturgeon shashlyk topping the list. Attentive charming service and the comfortable setting make this a great choice for afternoon tea or a couple pints with your mates. QOpen 09:30 - 02:00. PTAUIVEGBSW

Sherlock G-3, Polska 14, tel. (+380) 482 49 67 14/

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Nightlife
Bars & Pubs
70 37/(+380) 482 33 88 00, www.corvin.ua. A whisky club, pub and restaurant, Corvin has all Irish bases covered. The pub is located on the second floor and offers a plethora of imports (Murphys, Leffe, Paulander, Newcastle, etc.) and all blends of whisky. Sitting at the bar and swapping stories with the bar tender are encouraged. The elegant restaurant on the second floor has a more exotic menu than its rowdier, rougher around the edges counterpart on the third floor. Both restaurants offer up fresh and authentic fare such as rack of lamb, pork steak and chips, Scottish fish pie, homemade sausages, etc. Corvins main attraction is its unbelievable whisky club. With more than 800 different whiskies on hand from all over the world, its impossible not to revel in this quiet niche - sip on something rare, toke a savoury cigar and enjoy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. . PAVEGBSW Diysno Dobre Pyvo F-3, Zhukovskoho 23, tel. (+380) 482 35 57 59. Diysno is a laid-back neighbourhood pub/ restaurant where locals come to suck the guts out of tasty signature shrimp dishes and pound Ukrainian brew (eight varieties on tap). The atmosphere is cosy and the staff is friendly, but a bit lacking in English ability. The menu (in Russian only) offers an ample selection of traditional salads and soups and reasonably priced steaks and other meat dishes. This is a popular stop for boisterous football fans with local games regularly scheduled for viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PS Dykyi Z (Wild Z) E-4, Preobrazhenska 66, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 53, www.dikiy-z.com. You know youre having too much fun when the bouncer taps you on the shoulder and says, Sir, please put your shirt back on, youre scaring the other guests. Blues Bar rocks! Also, this is the first place where when I asked for the menu they gave me a newspaper - read up on local events while ordering from a menu full of classic bar/grill favourites. Live blues and rock until the wee hours of the morning and the best bar staff in town. QOpen 24hrs. Admission 20 - 40Hr. PAEW Gambrinus F-2, Deribasivska 31, tel. (+380) 48 726 36 57. Gambrinus is not only the name of the unofficial patron saint of beer brewing, but also that of the outstanding local brew that flows in delicious torrents from this establishments taps. While many pubs shun Odesas roots, this fine watering hole embraces them with a big Popeye the Sailormans hug. The cavernous upside down hull adorned with mementos from the sea puts one in the mood to set sail, but before you do be sure and sample the pork leg in sauce or the Gambrinus special (dorado with peppers and onions in a mint almond sauce). Live music is staged just about every night. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PEBS Glasgow E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 784 53 76, www.london-hotel.com.ua. Q: What does a Scotsman/Irishman/Ukrainian wear under his kilt? A: Lipstick. The extremely courteous bartender at Glasgow, a quiet pub located in the lobby of Hotel London, proudly sports a kilt. Known for its scrumptious cakes, inventive cocktails and real English tea, this pub has the remedy for the British homesick blues. QOpen 24hrs. PALGW Kavanakh Murphys Irish Pub G-2, Mytna pl. 1A, tel. (+380) 48 738 45 45. Great lamb dishes highlight a bountiful selection of Irish favourites. The fish lover in your group will snap to attention as he or she discovers the menus fabulous fresh from the mark section. Murphys boasts a relatively wide selection of brew on tap including Guinness (of course) along with other European and local favourites. If youre going for a game, get there early as seating with a TV view is limited. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. . PALVEBS

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Mickey ONeils Irish Pub F-2, Deribasivska 13, tel.

Corvin F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. (+380) 482 35

(+380) 48 721 53 33. ONeils is extremely popular with expats, and for good reason: familiar food. The pub sits like an alluring emerald on the end of Deribasivska vul. This is a must visit for breakfast lovers and is one of only a few sports viewing venues in the city. The pool tables smack dab in the middle of the pub - right where its supposed to be. Excellent English speaking staff ensures minimal confusion. This is an always welcoming oasis in what can sometimes be a foreigner hostile environment. QOpen 24hrs. PTALVEBSW tel. (+380) 48 722 43 62. The sign out font read the the beer barrel: loads of delicious dishes inside. The dishes are delicious and the beer is cheap and tasty. Being a popular hang-out for locals, the service is tuned to a different frequency than what is standard in the West. Dont take this the wrong way, the service isnt bad, but dont expect the server to anticipate your needs/wants. You must master the art of getting their attention. To do this, confidently and clearly say devushka if your server is female or muschina if your server is male. QOpen 09:30 24:00. PGS

Pivnaya Bochka (Beer Barrel) F-5, Pushkinska 76,

Skipper Pub E-5, Zaslavskoho 27, tel. (+380) 482 33 55 07. Skipper abides by local customs when it comes to service. This may be unchartered waters for greenhorn westerners. Its popularity among Odesians is due in large part to the availability of tradition beer munchies such as krevetki (shrimp), calamari and the dried fish that hangs from stringers above the bar like sinister Christmas decorations. The location, out of the way in a dimly lit neighbourhood, is far from ideal. On the bright side, its a passable joint for sports viewing and you get to fawn over local waitresses who prance about in sailor costumes. Also at vul. Torhova 51. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PBS

Clubs
Captain Morgan F-3, Zhukovskoho 30, tel. (+380) 48 728 84 82, www.morgan-club.com.ua. Popular with locals and expats alike, Captain Morgans proudly encourages lewd and wild behaviour including shots, table dancing and blatant flirtations with the opposite sex. What else would you expect from joint that displays a banner that reads drink and dance? A DJ spins atop the bar and all unconsciously convulse to the rhythm. This place is infectious, in a good way. The only drawback is the 50Hr admission fee, but thats chump change when you consider the good times youll have. The kitchen whips up first-rate food (menu in English), and servers speak some English. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. Admission 50 - 70Hr. PAW Dikiy Koyot F-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 18, tel. (+380) 48 722 17 18. Do you like models? Do you like models in lingerie? Do you like models in lingerie dancing on top of the bar? If your answer was yes to one or more of the questions above, Dikiy Koyot is for you. This spaciousness establishment is, for obvious reasons, very popular with expats. The DJ spins the house and you bring the funk. Have fun, but mind your manners. QOpen 24hrs. PALW Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. (+380) 48 728 65 66, www.palladium.com.ua. This huge modern complex has everything; restaurant with Odessian and European cuisine, lounge caf, nightclub-disco-restaurant with capacity for 1,500, 3 bars. The hotel has 23 rooms ranging from standard to suite, and a healthcare VIP complex with Turkish bath, Finnish sauna, swimming pool, spa pool, sun lounge, etc. It is located near the train station and the staff is very friendly and English speaking. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. PLEGX August - October 2012

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What to see
Odesas centre is densely crammed with fascinating, inspiring and unique attractions that draw foreigners in packs. Ukrainian and Russian tourists tend to head straight for the beach, but inevitably make their way to Deribasivska vul. (street) in order to pose in, on and around the many monuments, statues and relatively rare centuries old architecture. Odesa became one of the most important cities during the Russian Empires final epoch and its museums, overflowing with amazing and rare relics, attest to the cities former and current prominence.

House with Telamons F-1, Hoholia 1. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are battling over a gigantic Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure. If not for Ukrainians bad taste when it comes to balcony construction, one might describe this place as an architectural gem. The house was bestowed to the city by Baron Von Falz-Fein, an Odesian of German decent, and is located on one of Odesas most beautiful streets, where traffic is light and silence not an illusion.

Essential Odesa
City Garden F-2, . Constructed in 1803, Odesas first park
is located just off Deribasivska and was a gift from Jos de Ribas and his brother to the locals as gratitude for their trust and admiration. Contemporary Odesians rub elbows with tourists drawn in by the parks fountain - a popular place to relax and socialize. A live orchestra stages regular performances. Vibrant bronze statues of lions, literary heroes and the eccentric sportsman Sergei Utochkin spring up from the manicured lawns and beg to photographed.

Deribasivska E/G-2, . One of the citys main attractions,

this is arguably the best place to grab a bite, unwind in a caf or go for a stroll. The street was named in honour of Jos de Ribas, a Russian Imperial Navy admiral of Spanish-Irish origin and hero of the Russo-Turkish War. Unmistakable to Soviet people, the street has been the centrepiece of various films, books and songs. The scene is always colourful and there is an energy here that draws one listlessly across the cobble.

Golden Child Sculpture G-1, vul. Prymorska. The chubby bronze baby busting out of a futuristic metallic egg in front of the port station is a representation of The Golden Age. The boy looks down philosophically at visitors who grab his toes and pose. Locals believe that touching the toddler will ensure a successful voyage.

Catacombs
Beneath Odesa lies an incredible labyrinth known as th e ca ta combs. In the early 19th Century, city developers discovered that th e plenti ful limestone, just meters below, was per fect for constru ction. Many of Odesas famous architectural monuments are built of bricks cut from this quarried stone; the unintended result was one of th e worlds larges t n et works of tunn el s. Unlike the catacombs of Paris and Rome, the only skulls and bones entombed in Odesas catacombs are those of the crazy-brave miners, smugglers, partisans and spelunkers who were unlucky enough to lose their way in this 2,500 km long maze. The only authorised entrance is located in the small village of Nerubayske, 12 km from Odesas centre. The Museum of Partisan Glory offers a small yet fascinating glimpse into this vast underground world and is a fitting tribute to the courageous Soviet partisans who lived and staged guerrilla attacks from this sanctuary against Nazi occupiers. Youll need to hire a guide; theyre the only ones with keys to the entrance. The guide services listed below provide excursions in English and Russian and can arrange transportation to and from Nerubayske.

Passage E-2, Deribasivska. An intriguing shortcut from Deribasivska to Preobrazhenska, Passage is known for its beautiful architecture and alluring sculptures that adorn the ledges above the alleyways boutiques. Though in need of some repair, even the most pretentious traveller will be charmed by this passages uniqueness. Potyomkinski Skhody (Potomkins Stairs) G-2/3, Prymorska. These famous stairs have had a different name in just about every era of their existence. Vorontskyi-GiantBoulevard-City-Richelievskyi Stairs received their newest title, Potomkitski, following the success of the silent Soviet film The Battleship Potyomkin. In the films pivotal scene, the Tsars Cossacks march down the stairs and massacre a crowd of fleeing civilians. The stunning views shown in films and photographs definitely diminish the in-living-colour experience and many visitors find themselves at the precipice of the first step thinking Right. Stairs to the sea. Next sight please.

Sea Terminal G-1, Prymorska 6. Odesas sea terminal was constructed in 1967 and restored into its modern shape in 2000. Many westerners find reassurance in its contemporary glass and metal architecture. The port not only welcomes vessels, but is a tourist and cultural centre as well. The Odesa Hotel casts a dominating shadow over the other sights and facilities that include showrooms, a yacht complex, a marine life centre and a marine art gallery. odesa.inyourpocket.com

Odesa In Your Pocket

What to see

THE GREAT CHORAL SYNAGOGUE OF ODESSA

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What to see

City Tours & Travel Agencies


from Kanatna 22), tel. (+380) 44 495 56 70, info@ albatros.travel, www.albatros.travel. Albatros Travel provides excursions and guide services, transportation and accommodation, airline tickets and VIP services at the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A

Albatros Travel H-3, Zhukovskoho 2 (entrance

Alvona G-3, Pushkinska 8, tel. (+380) 48 777 25 50, inform@alvona.com, www.alvona.com. A Free Tours tel. (+380) 97 654 01 78, freetours.
odessa@gmail.com, www.free-tours.odessa.ua. Join free daily walking tours around Odesa. Meeting point: Monument to Duke on Primorskyi bulv. at 12:00 and 16:00. Look for the guide with blue Free Tours flag.

Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. (+380) 482 729 38 03, www.port.odesa.ua. Prime Excursion Bureau Kyiv, Schekavytska 30/39, suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 77 78/(+380) 99 550 00 00, info@primetour.ua, www.primetour.ua. Kyiv city tours, accommodation, travel services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A Odessa Walks tel. (+380) 63 814 63 73, info@
odessawalks.com, www.odessawalks.com. Odessa Walks provides entertaining ways to explore the city. Theres no need to book or pre-pay. Select a tour on web-site and show up.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. A

Tartus Tour F-3, Zhukovskoho 32, tel. (+380 482) 42 91 22, manager@optima.com.ua, www.tartoustour.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A

Prymorskyi bulv.. The great-great-grandson of a well-known cardinal, Richelieu was exiled to Russia from France by Marie Antoinette in 1790. He joined the Russian Imperial Army and fought in th e Russo-Turkish War. He was later appointed by Tsar Alexander І as governor of Odesa. The citys progressive planning and development is credited to his ingenuity and determination. His goal was for Odesa to be recognised as a truly European city. One interesting note: at the base of the monument, coins and medals from the time of Louis XVI, Catherine II, Paul I, Alexander I and Louis XVIII are embedded. Teschin Mist (Mother-in-law Bridge) F-1, Mystetstv bulv.. This is one of the longest bridges in Odesa. Legend has it that a high-ranking official commissioned the bridge in order to be closer to his mother-in-laws scrumptious dumplings. Anyone with a Ukrainian mother-in-law will see right through this lie. In spite of the delicious home cooking, most son-in-laws dream in vain of keeping mom out, perhaps with prison style walls and razor wire or, better yet, a couple hungry Dobermans on patrol in the yard in case mom decides to drop in for another unscheduled visit. A local newlywed superstition requires that the happy couple secure a lock on the bridges steel railing and throw away the key. This will ensure a lasting marriage. prov. 2. A magnificently re constru cted ci tadel located on the site of on an ancient Greek settlement and Turkish fortress, it suffered many devastating assaults and misfortunes. For example, on April 10th, 1854 an Anglo-French squadron bombarded Odesa. The palace and garden were hit by more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. Next to the palace stands Vorontsovskyi Belvedere. Reminiscent of colonnades constructed in ancient Greece, it is especially stunning when viewed from the sea.

Statue of the Duc de Richelieu G-2,

Vorontsovskyi Palace F-1, Vorontsovskyi

Odesa In Your Pocket

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What to see

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Churches & Cathedrals


Saint Preobrazhenskys Cathedral (Sobor) Soborna
pl. This is the largest of Odesas Orthodox cathedrals. Established as a small house of worship in 1808, by the beginning of the 20th Century it had expanded into one of the Russian Empires grandest Russian Orthodox cathedrals. With elbow room for 12,000, it was the regions religious epicentre. Each stage of expansion reflected the great leaps in development experienced by Odesa and the surrounding area. In 1936, Soviet authorities ordered the plundering and destruction of this architectural jewel. Contrary to popular belief, it was not blown up, but cruelly disassembled. Restored in 2005, what you see today is only a partial reconstruction of the original.

Shlomo Baksht, the Ohr Sameakh weekly newspaper and Ohr Sameakh TV. The library offers an impressive selection of books and films on Jewish culture, history and traditions. Regular seminars on Judaism are hosted in the library, and the knowledgeable English speaking staff is on hand to answer any inquiries. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.

Museums
13, tel. (+380) 482 22 74 53. Visitors to this museum will become acquainted with the adventures of Odesas most famous short term resident: the esteemed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. Banished for his political writings, Pushkin found solace in Odesa where he spent 13 fruitful months. The museum is dedicated to telling this story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 6Hr, children 3Hr. Excursions 25-35Hr.

Alexander Pushkins Museum G-3, Pushkinska

Novoselskoho 68. The brainchild of Italian architect Francesco Boffo, St. Pauls was originally constructed in 1824. By the 1890s, the congregation had outgrown the building, and an expansion project was commissioned. Reopened in 1897, the new church could accommodate up to 1200. Houses of worship were not immune to the radical changes that took place during Soviet rule, and St. Pauls was transformed into a sports hall. Fire devastated the structure in 1976, and a pile of rubble marked the site until a recent movement to rebuild finally garnered necessary support. The new cathedral promises to be a much needed centre for Odesas Lutheran and German communities. A couple interesting historical notes: Teofil Richter, father of virtuoso Sviatoslav Richter, played organ here and Leon Trotsky, V. I. Lenins right hand man, attended St. Pauls school. In his memoirs, Trotsky wrote: St. Pauls Realschule sowed in me, contrary to its direct purpose, the seeds of enmity for the existing order.

St. Pauls Lutheran Cathedral (Kir che)

Jewish Odesa
The Central Synagogue of Odesa F-4, Yevreiska 25,
tel. (+380) 482 34 78 50. The Central Synagogue was constructed by architect P . Morandi in 1850. Its faade and interiors are a mix of Florentine and Romanesque. During the Soviet era, the Synagogue was seized and used by the Odesa Pedagogical Institutes faculty of physical training. The prayer hall was transformed into a gym, and its height was halved by an intermediate floor. The arched lateral openings were blocked and classrooms were built in the balconies 1996, the Synagogue was returned to Odesas Jewish community. Rosh Hashanah 1996 marked the first time in decades that Jewish people gathered within the Synagogue. In the years that followed, the structure underwent profound reconstruction. A mikvah (a pool used for ritual purification) was introduced and a bimah (pulpit) was reinstalled. Quotidian prayers are currently held here, as well as festivals that attract hundreds of worshipers. The Central Synagogue houses the office of Odesa Regions Chief Rabbi

Archeological Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 01 71, www.archaeology.odessa.ua. Even with its somewhat diminished collection, this museum inspires delight and wonder. One of the oldest of Odesas museums, it was founded in 1825 and later moved to a specially designed facility in 1883. An impressive exhibit of the Tripolye, Chernyakhovo and other ancient Ukrainian cultures is on hand. The most popular displays are the ancient sarcophaguses and the rich collections of jewellery and other precious artefacts, some of which date back to 1000 B.C. The ensemble of the Egyptian antiquities is the third largest in the former Soviet Union. Due to the spooky atmosphere, locals are convinced that the place is haunted. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18Hr, children 9Hr. Excursion 40Hr. lection G-4, Polska 19, tel. (+380) 48 722 10 81. This museum/apartment was the former residence of the alpinist and collector Alexander Bleschunov. It was transferred to the city and opened to the public in 1989. This is a small, but extremely dense and fascinating exposition of various collections of art, relics and crafts. Many themes and regions of the world are represented; from 19th century Russian, the Buddhist East, Western Europe and the explorers own cherishes relics representing various adventurous stages of his life. There are many features that distinguish this museum, most notably is the gracious staff that creates a welcome home atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 5Hr. Filiki Etheria F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. (+380) 482 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. Filiki Eteria (Greek meaning society of friends) has been functioning in Odesa since 1979 as a branch of the Regional History Museum. In the days leading up to the citys 200th anniversary, Odesa opened the August - October 2012 Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Col-

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What to see
Potyomkin Stairs
Greek Cultural Foundation, which is also a functioning part of the museum. These buildings originally belonged to Greeks, and in 1814 functioned as the secret meeting place for the establishment of the revolutionary organisation Filiki Eteria, whose objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. The history of the creation, administration and activities of Filiki Eteria are on display. The exhibitions are a stirring tribute to the heroic revolutionary members of Odesas Greek community. Enjoy excursions, lectures, thematic conferences and student oriented lectures. Works continue to be updated and expanded. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fine Art Museum E-1, Sofiivska 5A, tel. (+380) 482 23 82 72, www.museum.odessa.net/fineartsmuseum. This museum is located in the former private residence of Count Pototsky, which was purchased by the city and inaugurated in 1899. The 26 halls host a variety of intriguing exhibits - from ancient icons to modern art. Kiprensky, Topinin, Ayvazovsky, Vrubel, Roerich, Benua and Levitan are just some of masters whose art adorns the museums walls. The most curious, must see attraction is the subterranean grotto with a waterfall - an ideal place for a romantic hook-up. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Tue. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 20Hr, children 10Hr. Literature Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 2, tel. (+380) 48 722 33 70. As you stroll the museums halls, silent portraits gaze down and draw you into their lost world. Books, manuscripts and the personal effects of writers and poets who lived and worked in Odesa (from Pushkin to Bunin) are on display. Small modern sculptures of beloved literary heroes and their authors adorn the museums courtyard. Besides literary exhibits, the museum also hosts art exhibitions, concerts, book presentations, conferences and cultural activities. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr. Museum of Waxwork F-2, Rishelievska 4, tel. (+380) 48 722 34 36. All of Odesas greatest celebrities have been gathered in one place: The Museum of Waxwork. This high society circle currently consists of 26 waxy individuals. The good news is that the museum is expanding its display. The bad news is that the museum will be close until spring for this expansion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 30Hr, students 25Hr, children 20 children under 6 free. Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) H-3, Sabanskyi prov. 4A, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 44, www.msio.com. ua. The museum collection represents art works of leading painters from Odesa at the turn of 20th and 21th centuries. MoMA was founded in 2008 by a businessman and art patron V.Morokhovskiy. The exposition is based on a unique collection of Its exposition is based on a unique collection of M.Knobel that was significantly expanded during the existence of the museum. There are also an exhibition hall and a gallery in the Museum, where modern art exhibitions, conferences and various art projects are conducted. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sun. Nicolas Roerich House-Museum G-5, Velyka Arnautska 47, office 2, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 58. The museum was established in 2000, and is based on reproductions of work by the adventurer, philosopher and Nobel Prize nominated artist Nicolas Roerich. Works by his son Svetoslav Roerich, and pupils B.A. Smirnova-Rusetskogo and others are also on display. The exposition occupies 5 halls. One of the halls displays the literary heritage of all members of the Roerich family, art albums and Svetoslavs portraits of his famous family. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission is free. Numismatics Museum F-3, Hretska 33, tel. (+380) 48 725 02 77, www.museum.com.ua. Who knew that numismatics could be so fascinating? This museum opened its doors to visitors for the first time on January 1, 1999 in commemoration

These gigantic, instantly recognizable stairs were designed in 1825 by architects Francesco Boffo, Avraam Melnikov and Pote, and built in 1837-1841. As the story goes, Duke Voronzov paid 800,000 rubbles for the stairs, which he commissioned as a gift for his wife Elizabeth. (Oh honey! Steps. Just what I always wanted.) Initially consisting of 10 ledges, the original 200 stairs stretched nearly to the sea. However, during the construction of Prymorska vul., eight stairs were buried and, as residents like to point out, still lie beneath the pavement.

How the stairs got their name


On the evening of 14 June 1905, the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris a mutinous battleship of Imperial Russias Black Sea fleet set anchor at Odesas port. Sensing an opportunity, socialist revolutionaries mobilized the citys dissident workers and took to the streets. The revolutionaries never managed to linkup with the mutinous sailors and the movement was violently squashed by Imperial forces. Most of the mutinous sailors managed to escape by setting sail for Romania, where they abandoned the Prince Potyomkin of Tauris. The stairs became world renowned following the 1925 release of Sergei Eisensteins film depicting the mutiny entitled Battleship Potyomkin. The films violent and climactic scene, set on the stairs, played on movie screens around the world. The stairs were officially given the name Potyomkin in 1955, in honour of the 50th anniversary of the Battleship Potyomkin Uprising. Potyomkin Stair factoids Every year, Odesa hosts a race Up the Potyomkin Stairs. The record is 22.8 seconds. The Potyomkin Stairs were voted the sixth the most beautiful stairs in Europe, according to a marketing survey. Due to the winding coastline, the Potyomkin Stairs actually descend to the sea not to the south as it may seem, but to the northeast. During the Day of Odesa, a celebration takes place on the stairs complete with a festive concert and fireworks.

Funicular
To the right of the stairs, there is a free funicular that connects Prymorska vul. and Prymorskyi bulvar. It was built in 1902, replaced in the 1970s by an escalator, and then restored after the escalator broke in the 1990s. The new funicular opened on September 2, 2005 in honour of Odesas 211th jubilee. The funicular consists of two wagons, each accommodating 12 passengers. Travel time is 1 minute 10 seconds.

Potyomkin Stairs G-2/3, Prymorska. Odesa In Your Pocket

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What to see
of the citys 205th anniversary. Within its impressive collection, the museum has over 2500 coins and antiquities from various Ukrainian epochs. The collection of relics from the Bosporan Kingdom, an ancient group that inhabited the Northern Black Sea Region for approximately a thousand years, is a must see. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. Regional History Museum F-2, Havanna 4, (+380) 482 22 84. Founded in 1955, this museums exhibits are housed in a 19th century mansion. More than four thousand articles, many of which are priceless, are on display in 12 halls and represent the Odesa region from the 14th century to the present. The Stara Odesa (Old Odesa) exhibit occupies the second floor. Maps, weapons, engravings, metal-work, paintings, documents and household implements tell the story of the different peoples who fought and died for control of the region. A notable display of publications including a 1581 Ostrozka Bible, a 1606 T rebnik prayer-book and other ethnographic materials offer a literary peak into the time when Cossacks ruled. Finance and trade have always been among Odesas defining industries. Their importance is revealed in exhibitions showing bank notes, insurance policies, cheque-books and other interesting paraphernalia. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Fri. Sea Port Museum G-2, Lanzheronivskyi Uzviz 2, tel. (+380) 48 729 38 57. At the bottom of Devolanivskyi uzviz you will find a fascinating, free museum. It was opened in 1990 in anticipation and commemoration of Odesas 200th anniversary. It is a one-of-a-kind museum as it tells the history of the Black Seas most important port. In the restored dock-worker sleeping quarters hang ancient drawings, original plans of the city and port and even a Cossack war ship. If you would like to learn more about the period on display, check-out Chelkash by the famous Ukrainian writer M. Gorky, in which he describes life on a Black Sea dock. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free.

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Odesa Jewels
Western and Eastern Ar t Museum G-3, Pushkinska 9, tel. (+380) 48 722 48 15, www. oweamuseum.odessa.ua. If you only have time to visit one museum in Odesa, this is the one. Paintings and sculptures by Michelangelo, Peter Paul Rubens, David Teniers, Sebastian del Piombo, Merisi da Caravaggio, Frans Hals and other masters are on display. Does this museum sound familiar? Perhaps you heard the disturbing news. On July 30, 2008 Caravaggios Taking of the Christ, a painting valued at 100 million dollars, was lifted in one of the worlds most lucrative heists. It seems that only a miracle can bring this spectacular work back to Odesa, but miracles have been known to happen The museum proudly presents two paintings by Dutch master Frans Hals. St. Matthew and St. Luke were painted in the 1620s and are two of the most valuable works on display in Ukraine. The tale of how these paintings found their way to Odesa is truly amazing. Catherine the Great, the worlds most distinguished ar t collector, purchased four of Hals evangelist paintings in Holland near the end of the 18th Century. The ships that were transporting these and other valuables back to St. Petersburg were hit by a brutal storm. One ship sank and the other suffered extensive damage. All four masterworks were believed lost at sea. In 1958, the improbable happened. While perusing Odesas Privoz Market, an art collector was drawn to an old woman selling what appeared to be an ancient painting. Convinced that this was the work of a master, the collector invited the woman back to the museum. She wanted six roubles for the painting; the museum generously gave her nine. A comparable painting was later discovered in the museums store room. An expert from the Hermitage was the first to notice striking similarities between the stored piece and the painting purchased from the old woman. After further research, experts concluded that these were, in fact, two of the missing Hals masterpieces. Both works were proudly displayed in Odesa until, in 1965, they took part in an exhibition in Moscow. While at the Pushkin Museum, St. Luke was savagely cut from its frame. Detectives worked diligently, but hope of ever recovering the painting quickly faded. Luckily, the blundering thieves quarrelled, couldnt come to terms with local scum and began to proposition would be foreign buyers. They eventually crossed paths with a secret service agent. The priceless piece was returned in sorry shape, having spent a year and half rolled up in a tube and stored in a hot dry place. Experts feared that the work was lost, but after two years of delicate restoration the painting was returned to the museum in miraculous condition. The fate of the two other pieces believed lost at sea has also become known. St. Mark has been in the hands of a private German collector for more than 30 years. St. John was sold at auction to American J. Paul Getty and is currently stored at the museum in Los Angeles that bears his name. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 5Hr. August - October 2012

Dolphinarium

Dolphinarium I-5, Lanzeron beach 25, tel. (+380) 48

720 70 70, www.nemo.od.ua. The largest dolphinarium in the former Soviet Union offers an unforgettable array of experiences including swimming, communicating and diving with dolphins. Above and underwater photo and video sessions with dolphins and seals can be ordered. Extremely popular with vacationers looking for an etched in your mind event, it makes sense to book in advance. Shows times are Tuesday through Sunday 12:00, 15:00 and 18:00. A night show on the weekend starts at 21:30. Admission 120Hr, night show 150Hr, children under 5 free.

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cosmopolitan odesa
From its founding in 1794 until the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, Odesa was Eastern Europes melting pot. Dozens of nationalities alloyed into the beautiful creation we know today as Odesians. A complete assimilation did not take place, however. On the contrary, individual national identities have survived for generations and different cultures and religions continue to peacefully coexist. This atmosphere of mutual respect is credited to Odesians ability to poke fun not just at others, but at themselves. World Club of Odesians explains that each of the citys cultures is more beautifully ridiculous than the next, and people have learned to laugh at themselves and at everything in the world, even at pain and at those things they love. Those things that are sacred for you may be absurd for your neighbour, but your neighbour is neither a bum nor a thief. Maybe he is right, maybe not. But there is no reason to loose sleep over it. Armed with this wisdom, multinational Odesa continues to thrive.

German Odesa
While perusing centre, youll notice that the Italians, Greeks, French, Jews and even the Poles have streets named in their honour. But what about the Germans? Surely, their contribution to marvellous city warrants recognition in the form of a street name. It turns out that there was a street at one time, but the name was changed. The Nazi occupation of Odesa is still a sensitive issue locally; dont expect the name to be restored any time soon. That said, the contribution of Odesas German community cannot be overlooked. Thousands immigrated from Germany, Austria and Switzerland in the 19th Century and made an immediate impact as coach makers, gunsmiths, watchmakers, bakers, printers, photographers and druggists. Brewing also fell to capable German hands; brands such as Santsenbauer and Kempe became regional favourites.

Odessos
Its only fitting that we begin our story of cosmopolitan Odesa with the Greeks. Not only is the name Odesa of Greek origin, archaeologists discovered a 2600 year-old Greek settlement on the hill above the port. The next time youre strolling down Prymorskyi bulv. imagine toga and sandal wearing Greeks bustling about an outpost on the edge of a mighty empire. Filiki Eteria Odesas Greek heritage is not linked only to ancient times. Many Grecians immigrated during the industrial boom of the 19th Century. Political exiles and freedom fighters found a welcoming urban centre ideal for concealing and coordinating uprisings. Filiki Eteria (Society of Friends) was secretly formed in 1814 at a safe house located on Chervonyi prov. Their objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. From humble beginnings in Odesa, they went on to play a critical role in the victory over the Turks in the Greek War of Independence (1821-29). During Soviet times, authorities attempted to deport all Greeks from the region; however, this was not to be the final chapter in Odesas Grecian saga. A handful of Greeks survived this era of tyranny, and a small community continues to call Odesa home.

The Gates of Zion


From Odesa Mama to Hero Town, locals have many terms of endearment for their beloved city. The Jewish community refers to Odesa as The Gates of Zion. Throughout the first half of the 20th Century, Jews set sail for Palestine from Odesas port. But Odesa was not just a layover; it has had a large established Jewish population since the early 19th Century. During these trying anti-Semitic times, it was believed that only Odesa offered Jews the possibility of a normal life. And what did Jewish Odesians do? Everything and then some. They worked as shopkeepers, craftsmen, salt dealers, shoemakers, grain vendors, dockworkers, moneylenders, jewellers, lawyers, engineers, doctors and artists. Odesa continues to be Ukraines centre for the Jewish community, and Jews continues to play an inseparable role in the citys growth and prosperity.

Frantsuzskiy Bulvar
Dont be distracted by the champagne with the Frantsuzskiy Bulvar label, the contribution of French Odesians extends well beyond winemaking. Armand Emmanuel Sophie Septemanie du Plessis, duc de Richelieu (say that five times fast) was exiled to Russia by Marie Antoinette in 1790. After serving valiantly in the Russian Imperial Army, he was appointed governor of Duc de Richelieu Odesa by Tsar Alexander I in 1802. A progressive planner, Odesa blossomed under his leadership. De Richelieus compatriot, Louis Alexandre Andrault comte de Langron, took over as governor in 1815. He established Odesa as a duty-free international trade zone. As a result, the city boomed, and prosperity flowed to all levels of society. In light of their tremendous contributions, its no surprise that their names have been immortalized in tributes including a statue of de Richelieu (Prymorskyi bulv.), Rishelievska and Lanzheronivska streets, Dukovskyi Garden and Lanzheron Beach. Many other Frenchmen found welcoming niches. For example, the first banks belonged to Frenchmen, and Odesas first newspaper was the Messager de la Russie Meridionale, ou Feuill Comerciale. Unfortunately, we dont have space in our tiny publication to detail the contributions of the dozens of other nationalities that helped give Odesa Mama her flare. One thing can be concluded: each of Odesas cultures is like the bricks in the ancient apartment or hotel you happen to be sleeping in - take out one brick and the ceiling is likely to fall in on your bed.

Italian Odesa
The inscription on Odesas original coat of arms (1798) was written in four languages: Russian, Greek, German, and Italian. Each of these groups played significant roles in shaping this amazing city, and the Italians deserve much of the credit for the actual shape. Just as in St. Petersburg, Italian architects left an elegant mark on Odesa that continues to delight travellers, and inspire artists and writers. Names like Franz Frapolli and Francesco Boffo will be forever embedded in the citys history. Designed by Frapolli, the Felix de Ribas House (Deribasivska 13) has remained intact for nearly 200 years. Boffo designed the Potemkin Stairs, the citys most recognized feature. He is also responsible for the Vorontsovskyi Palace, which is not only beautiful, but apparently indestructible. On April 10th, 1854 the structure withstood an Anglo-French bombardment of more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. As with the Greeks, a small community remains, and a new wave of Italian prospectors has come seeking fortune in contemporary commercial markets.

Odesa In Your Pocket

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Mail & Phones


Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.

The Odesa telephone code is +380 48 or (482)

Using a telephone
To call a number inside Odesa just dial the number. To make a long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Odesa from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Odesas city code (48) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad 52 Rivne 36 Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol 69 Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region 45 Simferopol 65 Dnipropetrovsk 56 Luhansk 64 Sumy 54 Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33 Ternopil 35 Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 Kharkiv 57 Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa 43 Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya 61 Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr 41 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 0 if dialing from another Ukrainian town. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 The above International country codes should be prefixed with 0-0 if dialing from inside Ukraine.

Fixed line telephone

Express mail
dhl.com.ua. Service points: F-5, Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. (+380) 482 30 01 11; F-3, Hretska pl. 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 734 43 05. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. TNT Aeroportivska 25, tel. (+380) 482 35 80 10/ (+380) 482 35 80 20, www.tnt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. UPS F-4, Onilovoyi prov. 16, tel. (+380) 482 32 19 67/(+380) 48 777 07 17, www.ups.com. Q Open 09:00: - 18:00.

DHL G-3, Hretska 22, tel. (+380) 48 711 79 43, www.

Mail
Central Post Office E-2, Sadova 10, tel. (+380) 48 726 65 40, www.ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Public internet access


Angar 18 F-5, Velyka Arnautska 52, tel. (+380) 482 34 36 46. QOpen 24hrs. 6Hr per hour. Submarine E-4, Preobrazhenska 49/51, tel. (+380) 482 37 71 97. 4Hr per hour, scanning and printing services. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. VIP net E-2, Sadova 14, tel. (+380) 48 728 02 94. QOpen 24hrs. 5Hr per hour.

Mobile phones
There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Odesadirect numbers (which do not differ from the Odesa fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 0 and the operators code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local providers service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations. Beeline H-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel. (+380) 48 714 85 03, www.beeline.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Intertelecom F-5, Mala Arnautska 70, tel. (+380) 48 743 11 21, www.intertelecom.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. KyivStar GSM G-2, Lanzheronivska 3, tel. (+380) 48 777 07 77, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Life F-5, Hretska 33, tel. (+380) 482 33 29 15, www. life.com.ua. Also at: F-5, Velyka Arnautska 63, tel. 49 62 32. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. MTS F-3, Bazarna 60/61, tel. (+380) 482 34 37 02, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Utel F-3, Katerynynska 37, tel. (+380) 48 786 99 11, www.utel.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Roaming
To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, use the operators code instead of a city code.

Laptop login
Wi-Fi There are now a number of places in KOdesayiv which provide Wi-Fi connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the W symbol in our guide. The service is usually free at hotels and restaurants, but in some venues the connection costs around 10Hr per hour. 3G & 4G There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offering 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres can also refill your account and help with setting up a connection to the Internet.

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
Antiques
Anna F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. (+380) 48 722 22 47. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Collection E-3, Preobrazhenska 37, tel. (+380) 48 726 69 74/(+380) 482 39 98 61. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Collectioner F-5, Velyka Arnautska 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 27. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Hobbi E-5, Panteleimonivska 126A, tel. (+380) 48 714 48 38. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Lotos Mira F-2, Deribasivska 18, tel. (+380) 482 37 27 65. Also at Torhova 26, tel. (+380) 482 719 39 06. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
lubava.rialemon.com.ua. Lubava is an art gallery focused on handcrafts - tableware, bijouterie, dolls and souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. PA6U

37

Lubava E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 726 69 81,

Mozaika G-5, Pushkinska 62, tel. (+380) 48 722 27 90. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Souvenirs G-2, Pushkinska 1, tel. (+380) 482 42 93 84. QOpen 9.00 - 18.00. Surprise F-4, Rishelievska 38, tel. (+380) 48 731 46 39. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. World of Pottery E-4, Preobrazhenska, 68, tel. (+380)

Books
37 27 65. Also at Torhova 26, tel. (+380) 482 719 39 06. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. The book shop F-3, Preobrazhenska 17, tel. (+380) 48 711 73 05. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Bukva F-2, Deribasivska 14, tel. (+380) 482 35 84 04/ (+380) 482 35 84 05. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Lotos Mira F-2, Deribasivska 18, tel. (+380) 482

67 937 86 93. All kinds of handcrafts made of clay - tableware, bijouterie, dolls and souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. P6U

Perfume & Beauty


Alex Hors F-3, Hretska 35, tel. (+380) 482 33 54 67. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Brocard F-3, Deribasivska 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 51 90. Also at Hretska 26/28, tel. (+380) 48 722 14 73. QOpen Jan G-3, Hretska 23, tel. (+380) 482 37 70 10. Also at
Hretska 3/4, Athena Gallery, 1st floor, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 24. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Also at Panteleimonivska 25, tel. (+380) 482 39 27 50.

Fashion
Benetton F-3, Bunina 25. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Canali F-3, Katerynynska 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 05 14. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Castro F-3, Hretska 25, tel. (+380) 48 728 14 44. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Egoiste F-3, Katerynynska 24, tel. (+380) 48 722 42 35/(+380) 48 722 48 07. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Elyzium F-4, Troitska 32, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 23. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. AL La Banque F-3, Katerynynska 22, tel. (+380) 48 715 50 25. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Mango G-3, Rishelievska 9, tel. (+380) 48 715 51 06. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Naf Naf F-2, Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 482 37 93 42. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Pierre Cardin F-2, Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), tel. (+380) 48 728 51 85. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Polo Garage F-2, Katerynynska 14, tel. (+380) 482 32 19 89. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Soho F-3, Katerynynska 35, tel. (+380) 48 711 74 66. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. AL Tommy Hilfiger F-3, Katerynynska 20, tel. (+380) 48 715 03 83. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

10:00 - 21:00. A

Photography
City Digital Centre F-2, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova prov. 3/7, tel. (+380) 48 777 11 85. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Paparazzi E-3, Novoselskoho 72, tel. (+380) 48 726 28 25. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Podorozhnik F-4, Rishelievska 33, tel. (+380) 482 32 02 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Shopping Centres
Athena Gallery G-3, Hretska 3/4, tel. (+380) 48 738 44 00. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Europe F-2, Deribasivska 21, tel. (+380) 48 728 19 29. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Novyi Pryvoz F-5, Panteleimonivska 25, tel. (+380) 48 777 64 78. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Sady Pobedy (Victory Gardens) pl. 10 Aprelia, tel. Seredniofontanskyi G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. TsUM G-7, Pushkinska 72, tel. (+380) 48 725 71 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
(+380) 48 722 49 28, www.city-mall.com.ua/eng.

Flowers
- 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Artishok G-5, Pushkinska 57, tel. (+380) 48 728 64 02. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Flower gallery E-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. (+380) 48 729 48 58. QOpen 24hrs.

7 Roses G-5, Deribasivska 12, tel. (+380) 48 741 17 18, www.7roses.com. Internet flower shop. QOpen 10:00

(+380) 48 785 85 85.

Gifts and Souvenirs


at Preobrazhenska 34, Passage; Panteleimonivska 21, Novyi Pryvoz.

Video, Audio, CD
Dysky ta Kasety G-3, Rishelievska 9A, tel. (+380) 482 22 77 77. Home delivery service available. Also at Deribasivska 29, tel. (+380) 48 726 99 36. August - October 2012

Kaktus E-2, Bunina 42, tel. (+380) 482 37 94 85. Also

odesa.inyourpocket.com

38

Business directory
Accounts & Consulting
I n t e r c o n s u l t 1 0 Kv i t n i a pl. 1, off ice 7, tel. (+380) 48 798 74 95, fax +38 048 748 04 92, interconsult@inbox.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30.

Arnautska 15, office 154, tel./fax (+380) 48 738 68 37, www.eba.com.ua. Informall E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, office 426, tel./fax (+380) 48 728 55 22, www.informall.biz. Triada F-3, Vitze-Admirala Zhukova 3-7, office 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 74 18, www.auditor.od.ua. Vidanta E-3, Soborna pl. 6, office 2, tel./fax (+380) 48 726 89 12, tel. (+380) 48 726 64 15, www.vidanta.net.

European Business Association H-5, Velyka

Banks
64 74, fax (+380) 48 722 67 57, www.bankofcyprus. com.ua. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. OTP Bank G-3, Bunina 10, tel. (+380) 482 30 53 50, www.otpbank.com.ua/enb. Raiffeisen Bank Aval G-5, Velyka Arnautska 20, tel. 0 800 500 500, www.aval.ua. Swedbank F-5, Mala Arnautska 71, tel. (+380) 48 777 82 80, www.swedbank.ua. UniCredit F-3, Hretska pl. 3/4, tel. (+380) 8 800 508 00 50, www.unicredit.com.ua.

Foreign representatives
Bulgaria Posmitnoho 9, tel. (+380) 48 746 65 54/ (+380) 48 746 65 58, fax (+380) 48 746 65 48. China Nakhimova prov. 2, tel. (+380) 48 787 17 89/ (+380) 48 787 18 98, fax (+380) 48 737 30 31. Georgia H-6, Mariinska 4, tel. (+380) 48 726 47 27, fax (+380) 48 726 10 45. Greece E-2, Preobrazhenska 32, tel. (+380) 48 786 62 58. Italy F-2, Katerynynska pl. 3, ap. 3, tel./fax (+380) 482 37 69 80, tel. (+380) 48 728 71 33. Kazakhstan Rozkydailivska 13, tel. (+380) 48 731 27 40. Latvia F-4, Uspenska 75, office 4, tel. (+380) 482 49 63 33. Moldova Posmitnoho 2, tel. (+380) 48 785 67 15. Poland H-4, Uspenska 2/1, tel. (+380) 48 729 60 03. Romania G-5, Bazarna 31, tel. (+380) 48 724 03 99/ (+380) 48 724 78 28. Russia Gagarynske Plato 14, tel. (+380) 48 784 15 44, fax (+380) 48 784 15 46. Turkey I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 3, tel. (+380) 48 722 79 11, fax (+380) 48 722 14 78.

Bank of Cyprus G-4, Pushkinska 41, tel. (+380) 48 733

Lawyers
Comersant Nechyporenka 12, tel. (+380) 48 722 19 06/(+380) 48 725 58 97, fax (+380) 48 777 96 95, office@comersant.com.ua, www.comersant.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. International Law Offices I-5, Observatornyi prov. 2/4, office 57, tel. (+380) 48 715 58 55, fax (+380) 482 49 69 25, www.murs.com.ua/en. Zharikov & Sinichenko H-5, Velyka Arnautska 2A, office 109, tel. (+380) 48 730 52 80/(+380) 48 730 53 70, advo@te.net.ua, www.advokats.com.ua/eng.

International Schools
Odesa International School 10 Kvitnia pl. 1, office 54-56, tel. (+380) 48 719 07 70, www.ois.com.ua.

Translators
ABCD Group F-2, Bunina 30, tel. (+380) 48 775 02 48, abcd_group@mail.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. LBV F-2, Lanzheronivska 28, tel. (+380) 48 743 47 91, fax (+380) 48 726 64 13, www.translators.od.ua/ en. Also at Zhukovskoho 36, tel./fax (+380) 48 722 93 68. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Slovo Dobrovolskoho prosp. 92, office 1, tel. (+380) 48 798 75 63, fax (+380) 48 719 11 51, office1@ slovo-odessa.com.ua, slovo-odessa.com.ua. Also at Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 5, office 2; tel. (+380) 48 771 86 73 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. P6U

Language courses
Bridge School 10 Kvitnia pl. 1, tel. (+380) 48 777 41 54, www.bridgeschool.ua.

Officials
City Council G-2, Dumska pl. 1, tel. (+380) 482
35 60 61.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs H-6, Vidradna 3, tel.


(+380) 48 729 68 48, fax (+380) 48 725 86 37.

Odesa In Your Pocket

odesa.inyourpocket.com

Lifestyle directory
24-hour pharmacies
AKS F-5, Panteleimonivska 70, tel. (+380) 482 49 67 41. Apteka Gaievskoho E-2, Sadova 21, tel. (+380) 48
722 24 08, www.aptekagaevskogo.od.ua. Avitsena E-2, Pastera 50, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 86. Help E-4, Preobrazhenska 72, tel. (+380) 48 728 21 77.

39

Pyramid F-3, Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 482 34 48 18. QOpen 24hrs.

Bowling
7 zirok (7 stars) G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 15, tel. (+380) 482 37 15 15, www.club-yo.od.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 120180Hr per hour. A

Private clinics
Oxford Medical G-3, Polska 12, tel. (+380) 48 725 55 00/(+380) 48 784 01 04, www.oxford-med.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. V.I.P. Centre E-4, Tyraspolska 16, office 27, tel. (+380) 48 725 50 91/(+380) 48 726 18 00.

Mexico Akademika Hlushka 16, tel. (+380) 48 746 25 39. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. 69-150Hr per hour. A

Diving
Terminal, tel. (+380) 48 729 39 44, www.diveport. odessa.net. Underwater Technologies Lab F-6, Vodoprovidna 1, office 9, tel. (+380) 48 795 85 54. Vodolaz E-1, Prymorska 34, tel. (+380) 482 34 47 00, www.vodolaz.com.ua.

Poseidon G-1, Prymorska 6, See Port Passenger

Beauty salons & Hairdressers


Art-8 F-2, Maiakovskoho prov. 8, tel. (+380) 48 723 23 29. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Aspazia E-2, Koblevska 45, tel. (+380) 482 42 92 91/ (+380) 482 35 92 04, www.aspazia.com.ua. QOpen

09:00 - 20:00. PUL Classico F-4, Zhukovskoho 8, tel. (+380) 48 777 25 00. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. La Rose F-4, Katerynynska 59, tel. (+380) 48 716 57 50. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Maramax G-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 12, 2nd floor, Formula, tel. tel. (+380) 48 777 55 51, (+380) 48 728 25 55. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.

Fitness clubs
Formula G-2, Chaikovskoho prov. 12, tel. (+380) 48 728 99 20/(+380) 48 728 99 22, www.formulawellness.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Maximus G-1, Prymorska 6, Odesa Hotel, tel. (+380) 48 777 70 90, www.maximus.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Osa F-4, Palubna 9/4, tel. (+380) 482 33 66 33. QOpen 24hrs. AD Strekoza E-4, Bazarna 63, tel. (+380) 482 34 59 95. Also at: Lidersovskyi bulv. 9A, tel. (+380) 482 32 41 01 QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Maramax Institute Kerastase G-2, Lanzheronivska 9, tel. (+380) 48 777 88 82. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. (+380) 482 32 22 22. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Dry cleaners & laundries


Also at Preobrazhenska 48, tel. 777 77 52; Rozkydailivska 3, tel. 777 75 26. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Boellen E-1, Torhova 19, tel. (+380) 48 777 67 77. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30. Odeska G-5, Pushkinska 55, tel. (+380) 48 777 75 24.

Tennis courts
Chornomorets H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel.
(+380) 48 712 30 00.

Devolanovskyi Tennis Club G-2, Mytna pl. 1, tel.


(+380) 48 729 49 88.

Billiards
Odin G-3, Polska 12, tel. (+380) 48 777 74 70, www. odin.com.ua. QOpen 24hrs. 50Hr per hour.

Laun-Tennis Frantsuzkyi bulv. 85, tel. (+380) 48 780 01 00. From 100Hr per hour. Q ALK Prestige I-7, Druhyi Lermontovskyi prov. 1, corp. 1, tel.
(+380) 48 746 03 25. Also at Zatonskoho 30, Akademika Koroliova 88.

odesa.inyourpocket.com

August - October 2012

Street register & index


Admirala Lazareva vul. E-6 Bazarna vul. E/G-4, G/H-5 Bielinskoho vul. H-4/7 Bohdana Khmelnytskoho vul. E-5 Bolharska vul. E-6 Bunina vul. E/H-3 Chaikovskoho prov. F/G-2 Chekhova prov. F-7 Chervonyi prov. F-3 Chornomorska vul. I-4/6 Dohtiarna vul. E-4 Derebasivska vul. E/G-2 Devoranivskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Druhyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Dryhyi Kulykovskyi prov. G-7 Dumska pl. G-2 Dvorianska vul. E-2 Dytiacha aleya H-4 Frantsuzkyi bulv. H-6/7, I-7 Havanna vul. F-2 Henerala Vatutina vul. E-6 Himnazychna vul. G-5/6 Hoholia vul. F-1/2 Holovna aleya I-4 Hospitalnyi prov. H-6, I-7 ABCD Group 38 AirBaltic 6 AKS 39 Akvarel 21 Aleksandrovskiy 14, 25 Alex. Pushkin's Museum 31 Alex Hors 37 Alliance Franaise 12 Alpina-varenychnaya 20 Alvona 30 Amerikano 17 Ancient City Hostel 19 Anna 37 Antony's Home 19 Angar 18 36 Apteka Gaievskoho 39 Arabian Culture Centre 12 Ararat 6 Archeological Museum 31 Arkadia Plaza 13 Art-8 39 Artishok 37 Aspazia 39 Athena Gallery 37 Austrian Airlines 6 Autolux 6 Avis 6 Avitsena 39 Ayvazovsky 14 Bank of Cyprus 38 Basilic 24 Bavarian House 12 Bazlyk 12 Beeline 36 Benetton 37 Bernardazzi 24 Birlik 12 Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Collection 31 Boellen 39 Bootlegger 20 Bosfor 25 Boulevard 22 Bridge School 38 Brigantina 15 Bristol 13 British Council 12 Brocard 37 Bukva 37 Bulgarian Culture Centre 12 Bunin 26 Caf Sophie 23 Canali 37 Captain Morgan 27 Carpatair 6 Casa Italia 24 Casa Nova 24 Castro 37 Central Bus Station 6 Central Post Office 36 eska rodin 12 Champion 6 Chas Pik 22 Chernomorets 39 Chervonyi Lobster 25 Hretska pl. F-3 Hretska vul. E/H-3 Italiiskyi bulv. F/H-6 Kanatna vul. H-2/4, G-4/7 Kanatnyi prov. H-5 Karantynna vul. G-4 Karantynnyi Uzviz G-2/3, H-3 Kataieva prov. G-7 Katerynynska pl. F-2 Katerynynska vul. F-2/6 Kinna vul. E-1 Kniazivska vul. E-1 Knyzhkovyi prov. E-5 Koblevska vul. E-2 Kovalska vul. E-4 Kuibysheva vul. E/F-5 Kulykove Pole pl. G-6 Lva Tolstoho vul. E-3 Lanzheronivska vul. F/G-2 Leitenanta Shmidta vul. G-5/6 Lermontovskyi prov. H/I-5 Liapunova prov. E-1 Lidersivskyi bulv. I-4/5, H-5 Maiakovskoho prov. F-1 Mala Arnautska vul. E/H-5 Marazliievska vul. H-3/5 Mariinska vul. H-6 Chorne More 14 Chorne More Otrada 16 City Council 38 City Digital Centre 37 City Garden 28 City Time 25 Classico 39 Collection 37 Collectioner 37 Columbus 14, 23 Comersant 38 Compot 21 Continental 13 Corona 17 Corvin 27 Crab House 25 Czech Airlines 6 Dacha 21 Deribas 16 Deribasivs'ka 28 De Rishelie 18 Devarana 21 Devolanovskyi Tennis Club 39 DHL 36 Dikiy Koyot 27 Diysno Dobre Pyvo 27 Dolphinarium 33 DHL 36 Donbassaero 6 DRK Residence 17 Dysky ta Kasety 37 Ecolines 6 Egoiste 37 Ekaterina 16 Ekaterina II 15 EL AL Israel Airlines 6 Elyzium 37 Eneida 11 Estrelita 25 Europcar 6 Europe 37 European Business Assoc. 38 Fanconi 1872 26 Filiki Etheria 31 Fine Art Museum 32 Flower gallery 37 Formula 39 Formula-1 6 Forsage 6 Franzol 26 Frapolli 15 Frederic Koklen 15 Free Tours 30 Gallery 20 Gambrinus 27 Glasgow 27 Golden Child Sculpture 28 Golden Star Odessa 19 Grand Prix 26 Greek Culture Foundation 12 Hellas Odesa Greek Club 12 Help 39 Hertz 6 Hevron 24 Hillel Jewish Culture Centre 12 Morska vul. I-6 Mukachevskyi prov. H/I-6 Myasoedovska vul. E-6 Mytna pl. G-2 Nakhimova prov. H-3 Nechypurenka prov. F-3/4 Nekrasova prov. F-1 Nizhynska vul. E-3 Nova vul. H-5 Novoschipnyi Riad E/F-6 Observatornyi prov. I-4/5 Oleksandra Matrosova prov. G/H-7 Oleksandrivskyi prosp. F-3/4, E/F-5 Onilovoi prov. F-4/5 Orlykova prov. G-6 Osypova vul. G-4/5 Panteleimonivska E/G-5, G/H-6 Pastera vul. E-1/2 Pershyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. F-7 Pokrovs'kyi prov. F-3/4 Polska vul. G-3/4 Polskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Preobrazhenska vul. E-1/5 Prymorska vul. F-1 Hobbi 37 House with Telamons 28 Informall 38 Interconsult 38 International Law Offices 38 Intertelecom 36 Israel Culture Centre 12 Italian Kvartal 24 Jan 37 Jazzy Buzzy 21 Jewish Culture Centre 12 Kaktus 37 Kavanakh Murphy's Irish Pub 27 Khizhina 23 Khutorok u Morya 20 Kiy Avia 6 Klarabara 21 Klumba 17 Kobe 21 Kontrabas Art-Caf 11 Kraft Reisen GmbH 6 Kumanets 20 Kuyalnik Resort 19 KyivStar GSM 36 La Banque 37 La Gioconda 15 La Rose 39 Laun-Tennis 39 La Veranda 23 LBV 38 Lermontovskiy 16 Life 36 Literature Museum 32 London 13, 20 Londonskaya 13 Lotos Mira 37 Magic Bus 19 Malev Hungrian Airlines 6 MamaCasalla 23 Maner 26 Mango 37 Maramax 39 Maramax Institute Kerastase 39 Maristrella Club 13 Marrakesh 26 Maryan's Home 19 Maximus 39 Medea 16 Mexico 39 Mickey O'Neil's Irish Pub 27 Mimino 24 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 38 Mirage 18 Morskoy 14 Mozaika 37 Mozart 14, 22, 39 MTS 36 Museum of Contemporary Art 32 Museum of Waxwork 32 Naf Naf 37 Nicolas Roerich HouseMuseum 32 Novyi Pryvoz 37 NT-Art 11 Prymorskyi bulv. F-1, G-1/2 Pryvozna vul. E/F-5 Pushkinska vul. G-2/5 Pyrohovska vul. G-6/7, H-7 Pyrohovskyi prov. H-7 Rishelievska vul. F-3/5, G-2/3 Sabaneiv Mist F-2 Sadova vul. E-2 Schepkina vul. E-1/2 Schepnyi prov. vul. E-4 Seminarska vul. G/H-7 Serednofontanska vul. F-7 Shevchenko prosp. H-7 Shtabnyi prov. G-6 Soborna pl. E-3 Sofiiska vul. E-1 Sportyvnyi prov. I-7 Spyrydonivska vul. E-3 Staroportofrankivska vul. E-5 Starosinna pl. F-6 Starosinna vul. F-6 Suvorovska aleya H/I-3 Torhova vul. E-1 Tretiy Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Troitska vul. E/H-4 Tyraspolska pl. E-3 Numismatics Museum 32 Odesa branch of Azerbaijani Congress of Ukraine 12 Odesa Holovna Train Station 7 Odesa International Airport 7 Odesa International School 38 Odesa Jewish Community 12 Odesa Regional Greek Society 12 Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau 30 Odesa Society of Armenian Culture 12 Odes'ka 39 Odessa Apartments 18 Odessa Executive Suites 18 Odesskiy Dvorik Residence 18 Odin 22, 39 Oktyabrskaya 16 Osa 39 OTP Bank 38 Otrada 14 Oxford Medical 39 Palladium 15, 27 Pal'ma 16 Pantera Express 6 Paparazzi 37 Paradnaya No 1 26 Park Residense 22 Passage 18, 28 Pecheskago 24 Pechki da Lavochki 20 Picknick 24 Pierre Cardin 37 Pirosmani 24 Pivnaya Bochka 27 Podorozhnik 37 Polish Airlines 6 Polo Garage 37 Porto 25 Poseidon 39 Potomkinski Skhody 32 Potyomkinski Skhody 28 Prestige 39 Prime Excursion Bureau 30 Princess 17 Prominada 15 Prosvita Ukrainian Society 12 Puzata Khata 22 Pyramid 39 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 38 Regional History Museum 33 Renaissance Suites Odessa 18 Ribon'ka 25 Robin-Bobin 26 RoomMe 18 Rozmarin 24 Sady Pobedy 37 St. Preobrazhensky's Cathedral 31 Sakhar 26 Salieri Art Caf 11 SAS 6 Schastie 11 Sea Port Museum 33 Tyraspolska vul. E-3/4 Udilnyi prov. H/I-7 Uiutna vul. I-6 Uspenska vul. E/H-4 Uspenskyi prov. E-4/5 Utosova vul. E-4 Velyka Arnautska vul. E/H-5 Vidradna vul. H-6 Viiskovyi Uzviz F-1/2 Viry Inber vul. I-5 Viry Kholodnoi pl. F-3 Vitse-Admirala Azarova vul. H/I-6 Vitse-Admirala Zhukova vul. F-2/3 Vodoprovidna vul. E-7, F-6 Volzkyi prov. F-6/7 Vorontsovskyi prov. F-1/2 Voznesenskyi prov. F-6/7 Vysokyi prov. E-7 Yamchytskoho prov. G-6 Yasna vul. H-6 Yelysavethradskyi prov. F-7 Yevreiska vul. F/G-4 Yuriia Oleshi vul. G-3 Zaslavskoho vul. E-4/5 Zhukovskoho vul. E/H-3 Sea Terminal 28 Seredniofontans'kyi 37 Sevilla 25 Shalanda 18 Shef Caf 26 Sherlock 26 Sixt 6 Skipper Pub 27 Slavyanka Tours 30 Slovo 38 Societ Dante Alighieri 12 Soho 37 Souvenirs 37 Statue of the Duc de Richelieu 30 Steakhouse: Meat and Wine 20 St. Paul's Lutheran Cathedral (Kirche) 31 Strekoza 39 Submarine 36 Surprise 37 Swedbank 38 Tavernetta 24 Tavrey Airlines 7 Tequila House 25 Teschin Mist 30 The Babushka Grand Hostel 19 The book shop 37 The Central Synagogue of Odesa 31 Tito 21 TNT 36 Tokyo House 21 Tommy Hilfiger 37 Transavio 7 Triada 38 Triton-Service 6 Tsentralnyi 17 TsUM 37 Turkish Airlines 7 Tvorchestvo 11 Ukainian Moldovian Cultural Association 12 Ukraine International Airlines 7 Ukrainian Club of Odesa 12 Ukrains'ka Lasunka 20 Underwater Technologies Lab 39 UniCredit 38 UPS 36 Utel 36 Valdai 22 Varadero 22 Vernisage 11 Vidanta 38 Villa Venezia 14 V.I.P . Centre 39 VIP net 36 Vodolaz 39 Vorontsovs'kyi Palace 30 Voyage 24 VRC 6 Western and Eastern Art Museum 33 White Moon 11 Wiedergeburt 12

41

August - October 2012

Art

ov

ia
St. Nicholas Church

n pu

E
L A K S A
Kbtzhna Bukhta
Odesa

33

So

Pr

ym

GB

CH

IE

ro

L v.

f iis

k a

Public library

A. E. Nudelman

Puppetry

bu

or

lv
Vorontsovs Palace Ensemble

sk

16

ODESA CENTRE
SCALE 1:14500

12

14

1a
1
19
Golden child Sculpture

20

15

Zhvanetskoho

n Kin 7
LEGEND:
P
1
1

To
o ry m

13

14

Marshal Malinovskyi

18

12

15

yi sk ov nts o r Vo rov. p

Frederic Koklen

The Scientists House

u zvi z

prov. Nekra sova

Hoholia

li Ye

ko

vy i

a sk

19

Pry

Sabaneiv M is 11 t
5

tyn

13

i s

s t

18

52

Preobr17 azhenska

16
24
Laokoon De-Volan & De-Ribas

sk
Philiki Etheria

28

23

10

21
16

an ori Dv
n iv s k a
MYTNA PL.

20

21

e City Garden

H av an na V i 7

13

bl

21

TIU Front Page

K r n

Young Spectators Theatre

ty

at er yn yn s ka

52

48

Frapolli

45
9
Numismatics

Vitse-Adi rl Zhukov2 a

Chervonyi prov.

12

14

26

29

73

11

27

13

13

3
16 31
25

16
Bristol

K n tn

Pls

41 23

B un in a

12

1
Renaissance Suites Aleksander Pushkin Odessa

L
5

42

s
Magic Bus Backpackers

63

n hy
Continental

oh 1
18
Western and Eastern Art Ekaterina

lst To 3
19

SBRN PL.

Fundation of Greek Culture

v. N nnyi uz vi z khimova
3
5 1

vs

Russian Drama

Deribas

17
11
9

27
Jose de Rivas (Iosif Deribas)

Mikhail Vorontsov

Passage

D e ri b a s i v
1

on
Ayvazovsky

32

48

r py
22
28 27

Regional Philharmonic Society Hall

20

yd
19
19

36

11

41 15

Z hu ko vs k
16

30

19

Unknown Militiaman

18

12

k s

56

Nchypure nka

39

C h o rn

42

Po krov sk yi

35

21

Aleksandrovskiy The Great Choral Synagogue

13

16

26

51
28

36

1 01

41

14
24

46

20 P u sh ki n s ka

1 16
Private Collections (Bleschunovs Museum)

34A

l 8

7 10

25

10

58

R is h l ie vs

23

8
11

23

TYRSPLS PL.

v P l o n 12 iv l s y i sky i uz viz u z v iz 10 Yu ri ia O l sh 2 i

oho

Sabans barracks Contemporary art

M r z lii v

12

s ov
The Virgin Mary Assumption Church

42

k a

13

27

prov.

a sk ol 3 p 1 ras Ty
30

41

14

58

Yevreiska

19

15

pr ov .

48

48

21

32

34

10 le s n d riv s ky i pr os p . e s n dr ivs k yi pr o sp .

39

18 r n ty nn

72

sy p v

24

Dyt iach a alei a

ul.
rs ky
Ptokinsi skhody

rh

ov

22

23

Stara Odesa

Circus

36

19

21

sa

35

ve
i

40

21

P
m

v
bu

1 /3

Founders of Odess

ors

KTRYNYNSKA PL.

Administrative building

r
l v
Londonskaya

prov. Miak ovskoho 9 1

Church of St. Peter

Cannon from the English Frigate Tigr

monuments Orthodox church Catholic church museum theatre culture centre fountain cinema sea terminal beach

consulate hotel youth hostel post o ce & internet traine station bus station stadion park pedestrian zone stairs

ka

ar

v ul

15

16

11

18

2
21

a
ik ov s k o ho
Alexander Pushkin

Local Lore

pr ov . C ha
DUMSKA PL.

.
Ods-Prt

Karantynna Bukhta

64

L a n zh e ro
Mozart

37

47
Archlgical

s k a
14
2

Opra and Ballet Theatre Wax Figures

H. Vakulenchuk Literature Odessa Sea Port 1 Potomkintsy

Ni
2 2 1

pro

46

H re tska

Suv
2

va

37

o ro

v s

Central

PL. VIRY KHOLODNOI

HRETSKA PL.

ka

ia
Perished seamen and ships

82

62

ka

Taras Shevchenko Park

83

68

92

Central stadium Taras Shevchenko

91

Sa ba ns k yi pr ov .

oh

The Glory Avenue and the Unknown Soldier Students Palace

om o rs

44

H o l ov na a le i a
Alexanders Column Oktyabrskaya

ka

l.

54

23

80

45

36

31

38
37

68

U t os4o

91

Holy Trinity Church

39

15

44

vs k a

ar

yi

16

13

74

vo i

50

61
45

67

86

16

15

Z sl v14 s ko h o

69

26

55

M r zl iie

Otaman Holovatyi

82

B a za rn a
64 60

72

35 23

U sp e n s ka

Ob
s

27

Us pe ns k

43

61

52

82

55

14

23

16 pr ov . O ni lo

28

iv s

rn t

Ve ly ka Arn
30
Arabian Culture Centre

123 29 22

32

19

88

79

53

60

yi p

72

33

21

M l A rn
55 58
49
4

58 P us hk in s

75

68

. ov vy pr hko yz

2
Chorne More

5
61

i
3
48

107

60
56

113

64

Kntn

an d r iv s ky i p ro sp .

87

11

ilin s k o ho 4

47

61

10

84

yi

128
11

6 9A
30

38

15

O le ks

ch na

37 116

31

15

72

10

81

Rodina

112 106 P an te le im o n ivska

Pr yv oz na
24
64 56

Chorne More Pryvoz

78

76

R ishe lievsk

30

L e it e n a nta S h m id t a

21

85

Preobrazh enska

15

23

23

M ch ny k ov a
10
37 23 3
8

17

v ul .

Pryvoz

15
13 7
Spartak Stadium Spartak Palladium

er yn yn s ka

27

K at

17

19

N o v o s c h i p ny

Italiiskyi
Mykhailo Tomas

PRYVOKZALNA PL.

P an te le im
Musical Comedy Theatre

14

14

19

H im n a zy

21

78

ofrankivska
17

prov.

1 01

Kanatnyi prov.

5
10

43

M l A rn
8

va
75
57

Ku ib ys h e
28

26

105 24

71

52

42

ort
4
Nikolas Roerich

76

O sy p va

p ro
47 35 29

119

u ts k a 94

96

Chornobyl Victims

V ir y
2

V e ly k a A r n

u t s
2 6
1

In b 2 er

95

93

The Babushka Grand Hostel

L r
13

nt vs

Lermontovsky

14

St
id
57

33

89

40

ka

rov

65

32
22

B z rn

er s

103 19

u t s
2
17

72

70

30

54

kyi

32
13

90

47

42
Odesskiy Dvorik Residence

11

67

StaroBazarnyi Garden
45

bu

85

92
56

87

88

61
40

U sp e n s ka
6
18

lv

69
63
2A

104

pr ov . 2

The Holy Virgin Assumtion Cathedral

1 54

14

110

London

40

83

44
77
9 3

15

50

4127
1 1

49

117

Tr i ts
23
12

U sp e n s
11
Holy Archangel Michael Convent

ka
28

66

rv
Konstantin Pustvski

12

a
u ts k a
2

Kn
34

Lanzheron

80

135

51

o nivsk a vu2 l.
3

i Ri a d
Odesa-Holovna
5

bulv.

M u c h

na

ro v id

9
2

do

6
PL. KULYKOVE POLE

12 13

Vo

suz Fr a n t

Mrsk

12

Ya sn a

STAROSINNA PL.

Ya mc hy ts ko ho

Preobrazhenskyi Park

15
1
2

S ta r o s in n
87

Shtabnyi prov.

Chorne More Otrada

Vitse-Admira
10

14

la Azr v
13
Museum of Army History

Mriinska

r bulva 6

P yro h o vs k
27

a
21

89

17

H o sp it al

14

4 n yi p ro v.

ov.

Volzkyi pr4 ov

8/1 0

1 8

Cable-Way
19
2

10

Vo zn es en s ky i pr ov .2

2 pr ov. K ta ie v

98

kohospo da 1 pr ov . rskyi

vul .

Vy soky
va
12

22

Sils

1 2 Pershyi Vodoprov 2 prov.idnyi 1 2 Druhyi Vo 2 dopr 11 prov. ovidnyi 7

26/28 S e m in ar s

ka

93

100/1

i prov .
11 0

24

v id n

99

p ro

2 vchenko Pyrohovsk yi pr

101

od o

Cinema-City

p ro v. O le ks an d ra M atro so va
3

12

1 3A

16

prosp. She

Kntn

11

pro v.
18

S eredn o f o n t a10 nska S eredn of on t ans ka

va v u l . M c h ny k o
prov.

59

13

11

Yelysavethr 4 adskyi

Dr uh yi Ku ly ko vs k yi pr ov .

U d il
8

ny
25

v. i pro
Dynamo Stadium

Ch o rn omo r s
prov.

Orlykov

U iu tn a
Otrada

k a

e vs k yi

O tra d n a
1

p ro v.
12 4

55A

ky i

Otrd

pro v. Ch ek ho

S e m in a rs

k a

S porty
29

v nyi
1 2/2

pro

v.

59

Tre riy Vo do pro vid ny i

Kartographia, 2012 Odesa In Your Pocket, 2012

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