CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT ABOUT THE A.H.V.Y. (THE SCHEME) OBJECTIVE OF A.H.V.Y COMPONENT OF A.H.V.Y ABOUT THE CRAFT

DESIGN METHODOLOGY AND PROCESS

VENUE OF THE WORKSHOP INSPECTION LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES SKETCHES OF THE PROTOTYPES PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PROTOTYPES

DESIGNERS REPORT
DESIGNERS VIEW NEW ELEMENTS ADDED PERFORMANCE CUM ACHIVEMENT REPORT CONCLUSION RESUME OF THE DESIGNER LIST OF BENEFICIARYS

Acknowledgement

My sincere thanks to all persons who were involved and made this workshop successful and without their proper support and guidance journey could not be fruitful. I am thankful to the Indian Govt. & O/o DC Handicraft for its mega project in various stages and feel grateful for this design and technical development workshop. It comes as a launching pad for the artisans to set the traditional skill on the right track. And last but not the least I want to give special thanks to the artisans of Hand Block Printing Industrial co-operative society for their lively attitude towards their commitment for the workshop.

ABOUT THE AHVY

Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana-AHVY : It is a model project of the office of Development Commissioner Handicraft, Ministry of Textile,Govt. of India for self sustain development of handicrafts through community empowerment. The vision is establishment of a vibrant and member control community based enterprises with the overriding objectives to enable artisans to take up economic activities for sustainable development through a collection mode. Under the project artisans are empowered to become active entrepreneurs-cum-primary stake holders in the process of development linking them to domestic and overseas market. Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojna aims at promoting Indian handicrafts by developing artisan's clusters into professionally managed and self reliant community enterprise on the principles of affective member participation and mutual cooperation. The thrust of the scheme is on a projected need based integrated approach for craft persons landing their empowerment. To organize artisans cluster into Self Help Groups (SHGs) or co-operative societies with a view to enabling them to take up economic activity for sustainable development through a collective mode.

The main objective of scheme :

-To empower artisans by making the active entrepreneurs cum primary stake holders in the process of development and bringing them to a visible platform for easy access to domestic and overseas markets. -To upgrade artisan's skill through appropriate design and technology intervention to enable them to use quality raw material, tools and equipment to produce value added items. -To provide adequate infrastructure support for improved quality and productivity and to enable artisans access to a larger market segments, both domestic & international.

Scope of the scheme :

-Identification of the cluster -Identification of the right development partners.

-Diagnostic survey to access the current status, with regards to skill, capability, technology and needed intervention, absorption capacity of various inputs and delivery. -Selection of the target groups of the crafts persons belonging to all categories with special emphasis on these belongings to SC/ST, physically handicapped, minorities and women. -Organization of awareness camps to sensitize target groups, group leaders, local offices, etc.about the objective of the scheme for their better involvement and results. -Formulation of cohesive self help groups, selection of group leaders and a village volunteers as cluster manager. -Introduction of thrift and credit activity among the women artisans and village community, making them understand the concept to thrift and credit and as well its advantage and selection of women group leaders etc.

The components of the scheme:

-Social: development awareness on self help and community participative organization of self help groups empowerment of women through TAC, inculcation of leadership qualities, organizations behavior and management, formation of economical viable enterprise. -Ethnological: increasing productivity, product and design development, standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity building, quality control measures with well defined specification, effective packaging, and networking through IT. -Marketing: Assimilation of market intelligence, product identification as per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test marketing through financial exhibition/fairs, effective publicity through appropriate media mix. -Financial: pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit and external through financial institution and funding organization). - Welfare: Health package insurance, group insurance, work shed, housingcum-work shed, functional literacy and health nutrition and sanitation, communal harmony.

ABOUT THE CRAFT: Crewel Embroider y

Crewel Embroidery is widely practiced throughout India with different stylistic variations that serve to distinguish the workmanship of one region from that of another. Irrespective of whether it be the ari work of the cobblers of Kachchh in Gujarat or the textile embroiderers of TamilNadu, the thread is passed through the ari, hooked needle, and is always held under the fabric to be embroidered and the hok is used to pull a series of loops, each emerging from within the previous, to the surface of the fabric. There are two versions of this technique; the first is used to embroider on thin fabrics such as silk and fine cotton cloth, used as stoles and shawls or made into pheran, which is a loose over-garment, kurta and capes. Crewel work, although similar, uses a thicker ari and is normally done on unbleached fabric; its stitches are bolder and it is used for embellishing yardages used as upholstery and drapery. In both cases, the patterns are usually linear abstractions of the local flora, with the outlines worked first and the embroiderers are usually men from the Sunni Muslim community.

DESIGN METHODOLOGY AND PROCESS :

To achieve something fruitful result, Planning is the must and should be based on certain facts related to the field/craft. Products - Products needs to be developed that they can relate their requirements, usages, and above all the capability in their society they were lagging at. Costing The other very important aspect which is necessary for the commercialization of any product is its costing. As its the most important of the development and survival of any craft, business of species on earth that better and adoptable as per the situation can only deserve to survive in the competitive world. Increasingly Productivity, Product and Design Development, standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity building, quality control measures with well defined specifications, effective packaging. Raw Material - It should be taken care that those raw materials should be in use, which is easily available to the native place of workshops. Wool which is majorly used in Crochet craft is easily available in concern area. Mar keting - Assimilation of Market intelligence, product identification as per market segmentation. Appropriate market and product mix, building up of business enterprise, relationship management of assisting market outlets, test marketing through financial exhibitions/ fairs, effective publicity through appropriate media mix. Financial Pooling of economic resource (within through thrift and credit and through financial institutions and funding organizations.)

Accor ding to the above mention facts I tried to make the Products which were relevant with their identification to the Map.ie lifestyle accessories, Home Decoration, & other items and Designs were also like which is easily communicable to the artisans. Methodolog y Adopted to develop the prototypes As per the survey report reveals that what the major facts were playing around the area it got needed a little bit different strategy to follow. Artisans were need to convince about the market and its changing nature as pore the time requirement adopted the methodology follows Identifying there area of interest and specialization. i.e. techniques.

Different sources introduced to get new designs and ideas. Let them taught the planning process and its importance. Introduction to concept development process. Different techniques to utilize the raw material. Finishing and packaging techniques. Method to take care of process.

Raw Material Fabric, Colorful Threads (Cotton, Viscose (Twisted, Untwisted) ), sequin, etc. Tools and Equipments Different Number of Needles, Frames, Khaka making paper, Stationary, Kerosin, Neel, Scisors,Cutter, Aari Needles, ETC

Venue of the Wor kshop : Village- Bachipra, Dist.- Budgam,J&K, India The Clusters in the Area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been producing quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vacation. Technical Guidance were to been offered. The Craftsman are suffering from difficulties of raw material and being the victims of middleman ship. The new generation is getting away from the craft because of lack of proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.

Date of the Workshop 6

th

July 20th July 2012 (total days 15)

Inspection
Officials with Designer Neha kumari and artisans.

LIST OF THE PROTOTYPES

VENUE: village- Bacchipara, Dist.-Badgam, J&K PRODUCT NAME PRODUCT CODE SIZE/INCH PRICE/p ES c INR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0 1 1 1 2 1 3 1 4 15
LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES JACKET LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE SCARF LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES JACKET LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE LADIES SUIT PIECE NK/SASEICL/12-01 NK/SASEICL/12-02 NK/SASEICL/12-03 NK/SASEICL/12-04 NK/SASEICL/12-05 NK/SASEICL/12-06 NK/SASEICL/12-07 NK/SASEICL/12-08 NK/SASEICL/12-09 NK/SASEICL/12-10 NK/SASEICL/12-11 NK/SASEICL/12-12 NK/SASEICL/12-13 NK/SASEICL/12-14 NK/SASEICL/12-15 24X 4.5 m 18X 16 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 16X 24 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 15X 11 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m 24X 4.5 m DESIGN AND TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP CRAFT- CREWAL EMBRAOIDARY DATE- 06-07-2012 to 20-07-2012

PCS

950/750 /1050 /1150 /1100 /900 /1000 /1050 /1150 /1200 /1050 /750 /1050 /1150 /1100 /-

02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02 02

DESIGNER'S REPORT DESIGNER VIEW:

A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing design in Crewal Embroidery, the available materials, technical inputs, production process and marketability of product etc. for the development of new designs, which can easily, marketed.

The positive feature seen at workshop's place is the dexterity of the womenfolk in various crafts. The artisans of Hand Block Printing Industrial co-operative society were yet not well trained in hand embroidery but having creative sense and good knowledge of color combination. It plays a positive role to implementing new and advance design during this workshop.

The base line survey got done before starting the workshop keeping certain things in the mind such as the present condition of craft and its practitioners, to know the basic requirement, the problem and its solutions and last but not the least for the scope & possibilities of the crafts and its practitioners.

It always been noticed that craftsmen are keeping the traditional arts and craft alive but they hardly reap the profits of their hard work. I try my best to make this workshop improve the status of our artisans and craft persons. This 15 days time we make them aware in many skills and art forms also the market trends and color forecasting and pricing.

The crafts persons were talented and practicing it, as the products made out of this craft is used in everyday workout. The crafts persons practicing the art for the household needs and for some small business point. There products of concerned and the designs were of limited stock, as they don't have exposure to the outer world of competition. The artisans are highly skilled but easily can be mould into any shape of desire.

The ultimate story is that, by proper guidance regarding the designs, ability to judge the trend and requirement of the market, technical inputs, providing proper marketing network, refinement of taste and choices to be built up among the artisans to enable them to put an overall performance on the crafts to ensure end users satisfaction.

NEW ELEMENTS ADDED

Keeping in mind the growing interest all over the world in Embroidary and especially the emergence of contemporary embroidery. I have tried to design a few home furnishing accessories without moving from the traditional elements and the creative trends in textile. New inspiration based an old modes designs and motifs of today. The focus was to teach them making their own patterns and accessories, not only will allow artisans to express their personal style but also teach them the importance of colors and details and tell them if these all elements well coordinated can add grace to design and product. The focus was to teach them how to create design patterns from an inspiration. Give it appropriate color combinations and use ideal technique to enhance the pattern and the basic steps of creating a design pattern for work by taking inspiration from the beautiful thins presents in the nature, books, surroundings and pictures etc.

PERFORMANCE CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT

The 15 day's workshop 6 th July, 2012 20 th July, 2012 with the artisans of Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.,Badgam (J & K) , has been a workshop with the difference. The work procedure during the workshop has emerged well. The collective effort of artisans and the designer reveals the great potential. It is very hearting to see the entire process, from the conception of design sketching graphic, tracing, framing selection of color has been highly interactive one and everybody learned from every moment of it .The product designed during the workshop was done with the aim of finding new buyers, will give more benefit to the artisans. Look for the product which has a aesthetic beauty with Indian touch, especially the Foreign customers. Key factor for the success of the workshop was due to main focus on the -Designing, -Highly decorative, -Focus on the neatness of the needle work -Finish is also one of the key features which led to its successes. -Excellent colors election according to the prototype. The product created range from Cushion, Pillow covers & Bed sheets etc. these qualify the design brief, which had required the designer to focus on the products. The idea was to have prototype with the quality and difference, and that can be produced faster without any technical difficulty and have a fancy look.

A brief repor t on prog ress of the wor kshop and prototype development
FIRST PHASE (06 th July, 2012 09 th July, 2012) Workshop got inaugurated, than a brief introduction regarding the purpose of the workshop and whole planning regarding the work discussed. After inaugural speech to understand the skills level of craft women, paper & fabric swatches distributed to the women to know their knowledge and skill about the craft. Then design of four set of the prototypes were taught & imprisoned on respective base material on which prototypes suppose to get developed with all the details. Placements of the designs on base material got done and were distributed among them. Work started on respective prototypes at the same time. SECOND PHASE (10 th July, 2012 13 th July, 2012) One set of the four prototypes i.e. ladies bags& cushion cover etc. got completed. At the end of this phase 13th july , 2012 other Seven set of designs of prototypes were got traced onto the respective base material. THIRD PHASE (14 th July, 2012 19 th July, 2012) In this phase some small prototypes were got completed. All the heavy work prototypes i.e. ladies suit pices, jackets etc. were targeted. At the end of this phase 19th July, due to fine and heavy work as well as short time period, Sixteen set (In double) of sample got finished. FOURTH PHASE ( 20 th July, 2012) All the prototypes developed were finished that means thread cutting, hemming, washing & stitching get done.

CONCLUSION
The 15 (fifteen) days workshop with the crafts women of Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.has been an insightful process.B The work that has emerged, through the collective effort of the crafts women, N.G.O.team, and the Designer, reveals the great potentials that the traditional craft of hand embroidery practiced by the women has. The products created by the crafts women, supposedly low skilled but are neat and well executed and have made us rethink about there potential. It is heartening to see that the entire process, from the conception of the designs, to tracing them, cutting, and then filling and finishing the product, has been highly participatory one, and everybody enjoyed every moments of it.

Resume
Name : Neha kumari
nehaprasad.design@gmail.com
Flat 102,C-1, Wing 1, Bindra Road, Bindra rose appartment , Maha kali caves road, Andheri (E),Mumbai 90 Cell Number: +91-9873795268

PROFILE:
- Extensive Experience in Product Development & Production. - Ability to think differently in provided guidelines. Systematic approach towards the task at hand .Adaptability to assimilate self into different cultures, situations and work with a team to achieve results. CRAFT BASED PROJECTS : Projects with JJSM,AIPPS,Delhi etc under AHVY Project with Design Studio ( NIFT gandhinagar )2 month -Aim of this project was to create value addition to single ikat dress matterial and sarees with treditional embroidary. -This included field work in surendranagar. Two weeks project with SEWA (Self employed women association ),Ahmedabad .Developed a range of 6 Indian garments for mid aged indipendent Indian women with a manufacturing price limit 500/Documenting Mutwa and Soda Rajput community in Kutch - Aim of this project was to develop an understanding of traditional craft Of India by studying the factors and environment effecting it for further Implementation in designs - This included three weeks of fieldwork at Kutch . - Studying the lifestyle, culture & craft of these communities in banni District. - Further documenting their traditional embroidery and products. Field study and for 2 weeks in the village Por and documentation for the same - The aim was to do a cluster study of village. - To understand their lifestyle, works, beliefs, history etc. have created the environment. Collection of surfaces based on traditional embroidery. - selected kantha as the traditional embroidery technique. - further studied its history , origin and types . - developed 14 swatches for Indian evening wear based on research and exploration.

Collection of accessories taking inspiration from Banaras , embellished with traditional Indian embroidery.

- This project was mainly focused on creating contemporary surfaces using traditional embroidery and further applying them into products. - My inspiration for motifs was ghats of banaras - collection has a belt, shoes and a hand bag for tourists visiting India. PROFFESIONAL EXPERIENCE: June 15 2009 to April 15 2010 Sarthak creations pvt. Ltd. -It is an export house involved in high fashion, beach wear,men's shirts and denims. Their clients include brands like FCUK, Playboy, Zara etc. Position- Designer ( Beach wear and high fashion) Job Responsibilities: - Research on forecast . - Making Sketches of collections as per categories . - Coordinating and inspecting the sampling of the garments. Achievements : - Developed the entire range for beach wear for our showroom from which the company got numerous orders from ZARA. EDUCATIONAL QUALIFICATION : Bachelor of Fashion Technology, (Fashion and apparel 2009) Institute: NIFT, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, India Higher Secondary Central Board of Secondary Education (2004) Senior Secondary Central Board of Secondary Education (2002) TRAINING EXPERIENCE : Internship under Designer Deepika Gehani, Mumbai for 2 months - Assignment 1: Designed a shirt for Miss India 2008 to be worn under her formal suit. - Assignment 2: Designed a range of women's tops and dresses made of printed knits & embellished with badges. - Assignment 3: Designed a range of short and long draped dresses made of Jacquard knits. - Assignment 4: Designed a range of women's formal kurtas made in linen
with surface embellishment. PROJECTS UNDERTAKEN:

Designed Garments for the theater group of college as per the theme of the play for year 2007 & 2008. Loungewear for overweight girls considering the elements which can make them Look more presentable Designed and constructed a semi formal summer jacket taking combat as theme.
Designed a menswear reversible Friday wear formal jacket.

Developed a print for day wear on the theme TERRITORIES INDUSTRY EXPOSURE

Visit to screen printing section in Jindal, Ahmedabad to study types of screen printing Visit to block printing unit in Parizaat , Ahmedabad to study the process of block printing Visit to Aarvee denim, Ahmedabad to study process of manufacturing of types of denim & canvas. Visit to BVM, Ahmedabad to study manufacturing of different types of corduroy and Jacquard weaving. Visit to ARVIND MILLS LTD., kalol to study manufacturing and garmenting of knits. Extra curricular activity: Modeled for annual college fest (eclipse 08) Participated in basketball tournaments at cluster level & school level. Participated and won accolades in various drawing competitions. Permanent Address: Qr.no-311, city palace, Sher-e-punjab chowk, Saraikela kharsawa, Adityapur Jamshedpur,832109 Jharkhand, India

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO - 01 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/SASEICL/12-01

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO-02 PRODUCT LADIES JACKET PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-02

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO - 03 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-03

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO - 04 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-04

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO- 05 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL/12-05

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO- 06 PRODUCT SCARF PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-06

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO- 07 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-07

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO- 08 PRODUCT PENCIL POUCH PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-08

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 09 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-09

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 10 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-10

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 11 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-11

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 12 PRODUCT LADIES JACKET PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-12

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 13 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-13

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 14 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-14

A report on Design & Technical Development workshop Sukhnag Ari Staple embroidery I C Ltd.

PROTOTYPE NO. 15 PRODUCT LADIES SUIT PIECE PRODUCT CODE- NK/ SASEICL /12-15