BASIC PEST & DISEASE MANAGEMENT FOR THE ORCHID GROWER

by Norby Bautista
Common complaints of orchid growers both in the rural and urban areas are the prevalence of pests and diseases attacking their plant collections. However, disease prevention and cleanliness are still the best approach, while chemical spraying is the last resort. Below are some guidelines on preventing or minimizing orchid pest and diseases in your plants. 1. Choose plants carefully before you buy. Inspect plants parts for insect damage, presence of pests, symptoms of viral infection, or signs of rotting. As much as possible, buy only vigorously growing, healthy, pest-free, and diseases-free plants. 2. Quarantine newly acquired plants before mixing them with your collection. Designate a holding area in your garden, maybe in one small corner of the garden, wherein new plants will be placed for 2-3 weeks for observation If in doubt, you may spray or drench the pot with a weak solution of insecticide and fungicide as a propylactic. If the plants looks fine, without changes in health or appearance, then you can mix them with your other plants. 3. Wash and sterilize all pruning / cutting instruments before using them on your plants. Wash them with soap and water and then wipe it with 70% rubbing alcohol. Another way is to dip pruning instruments in Saturated Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) solution, which is a common sterilant for metal garden tools. To prepare a saturated tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) solution, add 1/2 cup of TSP into 2 gallons of hot water. CAUTION The solution is very corrosive. Mix well using a wooden paddle. Add more TSP until some crystals remain undissolved. A saturated solution is necessary to inactivate viruses. Store excess solution in plastic-covered glass bottles. Make a wide-mouth bottle available in the garden, half filled with TSP, wherein you can dip your pruning shears before cutting or dividing orchids. 4. Learn to identify the common orchid pests or diseases in your garden and consult your local Orchid club on how to control them. Make a routine spot-check protocol every week to check status of your plants in the garden. Make a list of protocol or steps on what to do for certain pest or diseases in a notebook and follow it diligently. 5. Regularly check your plants. .It is unrealistic to expect to eradicate every pest and disease in the garden. There is truth in the phrase, "they breed like flies". Insects multiply rapidly. A "terminated" adult population often leaves behind eggs or larvae. Control may mean learning to live with a few teenage bugs. 6. Remove all dried, yellow or rotting leaves, dry leaf-sheaths, dead or broken roots and spent flowers from your orchid plant. As much as possible, remove all unnecessary parts of the plant where pests or diseases may harbor. 7. Spray prophylactic fungicides like Captan or Dithane on orchids during rainy season to prevent rotting. Allow air movement or ventilation between plants and provide space between plants. Do not over-crowd plants together, because it will encourage rotting. 8. When in doubt, do not water. Over-watered orchids tend to rot. Water vandaceous and monopodial orchids once a day or every other day (or adjust when necessary) and every 3 days for sympodial orchids. 9. Spray insecticide only when necessary. Remember that these are poisons, so take note of the color coding in insecticides, green the least toxic, yellow moderate, and red tags are highly toxic. Wear proper garments and protective clothing when using pesticides. Consult your local agricultural supplies store for available brands for particular pests or consult your local orchid club. Always read the label of the bottle and follow dilution instruction. Wash hands or take a bath after spraying. Call a doctor in case of

poisoning or chemical injury. Common insecticides used for orchids are : Lannate, Sevin and Karate, which are mostly systemic insecticides. 10. Regularly fertilized plants once a week using orchid foliar fertilizer, either organic or synthetic in order to supply them with the much needed nutrients for optimum growth. Here are some insect pest of orchids and how to control them. 1. SCALES - This is one of the most frequently encountered pest found on orchids. Low humidity might be a significant contributing factor for its prevalence. These small pests attach to stems, leaves, pseudobulbs, and rhizomes. They can hide under the dried sheaths, which often makes early detection difficult. Of the armored scales, Boisduval scales are the most common. Armored females can deposit from 30-150 eggs under the armor which is round and about one millimeter in diameter. The eggs hatch in one to two weeks or longer, depending on the temperature. The males usually occur in clusters that look like white lint. Boisduval scales are difficult to control, and it is necessary to examine each plant at least once a week to detect a reoccurrence. 1 tablespoon of Malathion, Lannate or Sevin to 1 gallon of water (plus a few drops of dishwashing liquid) is somewhat effective if the infestation sites are scrubbed (using a toothbrush) with the solution, the entire plant is dipped in the solution, and or thereafter the plant is sprayed once a month. Rubbing alcohol sprayed directly onto Boisduval males will kill them on contact, but does nothing to the armored Boisduval females. As the eggs hatch underneath the armor, the scale pierces the host and causes chlorotic (yellowing) areas by extracting plant fluids. If just one armored female is undetected, the battle to control scale will have been only temporarily "won". In addition, if ants are present in your growing environment, they acts as vectors as they can "carry" newly hatched scales from plant to plant. 2. MEALYBUGS - These are soft-bodied pests which look like cotton. They excrete honeydew in large amounts, and this attracts ants. Adult females are usually oval in shape and from 1/16 to 3/8 inches long. They have well-developed legs, and most mealybugs can move about. Rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle will kill the mealybugs on contact. They favor new growth, but large colonies have been found attached to roots that are near the bottom of the potting medium. Insecticide sprays are good control for this group. 3. ANTS Ants per se are NOT orchid pest, but they do carry scales, and mealybugs. Also they are nuisance especially the red ones that sting as they thrive inside pots. Control them by Malathion, Ant Chalks, or other insecticide spray. 4. COCKROACHES They are not regular orchid pests, but they may visit your plants and chew young tender shoots or inflorescence. Control them by spraying Malathion, Sevin or Lannate. Presence of lizards (bubuli) or toads in your garden may control cockroach population. 5. SNAILS AND SLUGS - These molluscian pests becomes active and feed at night. They leave a silvery trail of slime and often hiide under pots or rocks during the day. They may defoliate seedlings, eat tender shoots, including flower buds. They can be controlled by Snail Pellet Baits, by placing 1 pellet per square meter of the garden, usually on the ground, but NOT on the pots. The snails and slugs are attracted by the metaldehyde scent, lick the pellet and are poisoned. Snails can also be collected by hand, and then crushed by food (the sound of which is a rewarding and fulfilling experience) or placed in a can with concentrated salt solution. 6. APHIDS - These insect pests live and feed in colonies on young growth and on buds. They stunt plant growth and cause buds to fail to open. They may be treated with a spray of 1 tablespoon of Malathion to 1 gallon of water, or sprayed with rubbing alcohol. 7. SPIDER MITES AND FALSE SPIDER MITES - These pests are more prevalent during summer months. They are close relatives of ticks, spiders, and scorpions. Some species spin a fine web similar to those of spiders. False spider mites can only be confirmed by examination of a damaged leaf under a microscope. However, the presence of mites can be determined by rubbing a white cloth over a suspect leaf. If mites or eggs are present, brownish streaks will be seen on the cloth. Also, there is a characteristic

silver-like appearance to a leaf infested with spider mites. Spray with miticides, usually containing diazinon, dimethoate or dimite. A non-toxic mixture for red spider mites is composed of : 2 tablespoons cold water + liquid detergent 1 tablespoon methyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl or ethanol) 1 tablespoon cooking oil enough water to fill a hand plastic sprayer These are then filtered in a cloth before being placed in a hand plastic sprayer. 9. WEEVILS These are one of the most serious pests of Dendrobium, Cymbidium and Vanda orchids. These are small black bugs with a curved snout, similar to rice weevils. They are often difficult to control and they bore holes in pseudobulbs or stems where they lay eggs. Eggs hatch into larvae which feeds inside the orchid plant and is therefore protected from insecticide spraying. Adult weevils comes out at night. Spray insecticides or handpick weevil bugs at night using a flashlight, or sprinkle diatomaceous earth (sand-like) in crevices of orchid leaves where they usually hide. Another control is to spray plants with a systemic insecticide containing Carbaryl. 10. WHITE FLIES White flies are prevalent during summer. They resembled clouds of near microscopic snowflakes and suck the sap of orchid plants. They also attack other garden plants and trees. The color yellow is a particular "favorite" of white flies. Growers successfully controlled the problem by placing white fly "traps" close to any yellow colored object. The white flies became stuck in the sticky substance like molasses traps. Irrigate plants more frequently during summer or use diluted Perla soap solution sprays to deter this pests. For major infestation, spray insecticides.. Though insect pests are major problems in orchid growing, fungal, bacterial and viral diseases do also set in as a secondary problem after insects. It is recommended to always control insect pest problems to minimize diseases, and also follow sanitation, limitation in watering, sterilization of pruning utensils, fertilization and proper spacing of plants. Here are some diseases to watch out for and possible remedies: 1. BACTERIAL ROT - This problem occurs as soft, dark brown/black areas on leaves, and is frequently circular. On pseudobulbs, the blackened area can extend to the rhizome. This is due to bacterial infection which entered the plant tissue due to damage by insect or mechanical damage. Cut off infected parts and seal wounds with fungicide paste (e.g. Captan or Dithane). Sterilize pruning shear afterwards before using in other plants. Allow air-circulation around plants in the garden and limit watering. 2. LEAF SPOTS AND BLOTCHES -- Leaf-spotting fungi such as Cercospora, Septoria and Phyllosticta produce unsightly speckles and blotches on the leaves of orchids such as Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, and Vanda. The spots are rough to the touch. Microscopic examination will reveal the presence of a fungal tissue with distinctive spores. Infection causes premature leaf fall, thus reducing plant vigor and flowering capability. Severely infected plants may die prematurely. To control this disease, remove and burn diseased plant parts. Improve air circulation in the garden or nursery and spray with appropriate fungicide solution (e.g. Captan or Dithane). 3. BLACK ROT -- Black Rot is a particularly aggressive infection of Cattleyas caused by a fungus, Phytophthora. This can be observed when a new shoot suddenly turns black: the rot moves rapidly, killing the rest of the plant. A whitish 'bloom' of fungus spores may be seen on the diseased tissue. Heatstressed orchids are more susceptible. This disease is more prevalent during wet weather: it is spread primarily by splashing water from plant to plant or from soil to plant This disease can be controlled by sheltering plants from excessive rain during monsoon months.. Isolate infected plants, cut and burn diseased parts. Spray or dust with appropriate fungicide 4. BLACK LEG / DRY ROT -- Dendrobiums and Vandas growing in waterlogged potting or bedding materials are susceptible to a slow but inexorable rot of the roots and stem from below. The causative fungi are Fusarium and Rhizoctonia. Pseudobulbs become spongy and discolored. The leaves, especially in Vanda, will yellow and drop off, one by one, until none are left and the plant dies. Fortunately, plants

can be salvaged, and uninfected pseudobulbs of Dendrobiums can be removed to allow keikis to form. If a Vanda has many aerial roots, sever the stem above the line of infection. Since the disease is caused primarily by poor culture, fungicides are not recommended for control. Use potting / bedding materials appropriate to the plant type. Replace potting materials before they become old and waterlogged. Burn infected materials. 5. BACTERIAL SOFT ROT -- Soft rots are difficult to diagnose but whatever the causative agent, they can be devastating to an orchid collection. Orchids will be more vulnerable to infection if they are over fertilized, given insufficient light and ventilation, and if they are permitted to remain wet especially in the crown. Rots are a problem during the wet season, also after storms or typhoons when plants are bruised and leaves are torn by strong winds. Shelter susceptible plants from excessive rain. Be vigilant for rot during the wet season. 6. BACTERIAL SPOT ROT These is caused by Pseudomonas and Erwinia. Symptoms includes soft, brown, smelly, fluid-filled blisters on leaves and in the crown of Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, and Catasetum. The disease is highly contagious. Crown rot will quickly kill a plant. Leaf spots can be excised or removed so that the plant can be saved. The disease can be controlled by withholding water, improve ventilation, and removing / burning infected tissues. Be careful not to break the blisters as its sap can infect other plant parts. Reduce the amount of nitrogen component of fertilizers, and increase the potassium component. Pot Phalaenopsis plants vertically, usually mounted on a slab, so that the crown drains freely and will not collect water.. Use Captan fungicide.to prevent secondary fungal diseases. 7. VIRAL DISEASES - Viruses are the most dreaded diseases of orchids. There is no known cure although some plants appear more resistant to damage than others. An infected plant remains a constant source of infection for others in a collection. Viruses can cripple, disfigure and weaken plants. Two viruses, Cymbidium Mosaic Virus (CMV) and the Odontoglossum Ringspot Virus (ORSV) are transmitted solely by the grower. They are most commonly spread with a cutting tool contaminated with infected sap. Other viruses are spread by insects. Bean Yellow Mosaic Virus is spread from infected bean plants by aphids to orchids, especially Masdevallias, then between susceptible plants if aphids infest the collection. The presence of viruses can be determined by laboratory testing procedures. ALWAYS STERILIZE YOUR PRUNING INSTRUMENTS BEFORE DIVIDING PLANTS! Isolate all suspected virus-infected plants from you collection. Do not re-use old or used potting media. NOTE Insect Pests tend to build up resistance to chemicals, and thus, it is necessary to alternate products used for effective control. Use at least 3 types alternately, example: Malathion, Sevin and Lannate. Water plants first before spraying with pesticides. Spray early in the morning or late in the afternoon, but never in mid-noon as the heat of the sun coupled with pesticide spray will burn the plant. Always wear protective clothing when spraying insecticides or fungicides. Read and follow label instructions carefully before using. WEEDS Various plants will grow in containers with orchids, competing with them for fertilizer and water. Weeds include Ferns, Peperomia, Lace Plant (Pilea), climbing vines and some monocot grasses. The grower should be alerted to the invasion of weeds. Not only do they compete with the orchids for space but they can also harbor pests. Remove the weeds by hand before they become firmly established and reproduce. Reproduced as a supplemental instructional handout and as a practical gardeners guide. For comments or more information, kindly send comments or queries to me through: Mr. Norberto R. Bautista c/o The Biology Department, College of Arts & Sciences, Rizal Technological University, Boni Avenue, Mandaluyong City, (Metro Manila) .Philippines