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Life in Rio de Janeiro - Telegraph Mentor

Lucy Beney says Rio has everything to offer, from the world famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana to the world's largest urban forest, the lush and colourful Florestra da Tijuca.
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 29/05/2008

Geography and Climate People, Religion and Language Getting around Housing Education Health Economy and Taxation Security Entertainment

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As a Naval daughter, I spent my childhood on the move, both abroad and within the UK. After boarding school and university, I worked in London for seven years in journalism, publishing and political relations, before marrying my husband - and a multinational company into the bargain. We have been on the road ever since. In the last twelve years, we have lived in Brazil, Malaysia, Holland (twice) and Oman and now we are thrilled to be back in Brazil again, which we feel very much to be our second home. We have two young children, who have taken very quickly to the carioca lifestyle - and for whom life really is a beach most of the time. Geography and Climate: Rio de Janeiro, a cidade maravilhosa, is just that - one of the world's most marvellous cities. Sandwiched between the South Atlantic surf and the dramatic mountains of the Costa Verde, Rio is blessed with a stunning setting. The city has everything to offer, from the world famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana to the world's largest urban forest, the lush and colourful Florestra da Tijuca. Rio's geography means, however, that the city has grown upwards where it can't grow outwards, in order to accommodate more than seven million people who call it home. Copacabana is one of the most densely populated residential districts in the world. It also means that favelas - or shanty towns - cling to the hillsides throughout the city, and are often only a few hundred metres from the smart apartment blocks which house the city's more prosperous citizens. The division between the haves and the havenots is painfully clear. The city is broadly divided into four zones - Centro, which includes the main business district and Rio's busy port; the zona norte, an industrial and residential suburb; the smart and fashionable zona sul; and the rapidly growing zona oeste, originally a beach front residential suburb, but now an area to which many businesses have relocated and where the pace of new development is faster than ever. Brazil's summer runs from December through to March and temperatures in Rio usually hover between 35 and 40C, but can go higher. That is hot. Most homes have air-conditioning only in the bedrooms, although schools, offices, hotels and public buildings are air-conditioned throughout.

The winter, June to September, offers weather not unlike a good English summer. Temperatures rarely fall below the mid-teens and 20C is considered cold. The fierce heat goes out of the sun, the locals start wearing woolly tights and anoraks and only mad foreigners use the pool. People, Religion and Language: Known as cariocas, the natives of Rio come in all shapes, sizes and colours. People of any racial background blend in very easily. The huge variety of Brazilian surnames gives a clue to the widespread origins of the country's population, and Rio is one of the biggest melting pots. The cariocas are amongst the kindest, friendliest and most generous people on earth - that is, until they get behind the wheel of a car.

A huge crowd packs Copacabana beach

The body beautiful is taken very seriously, clothing is minimal and cosmetic surgery is big business. "Spot the Silicone" is a good game for the beach - and a never-ending love affair with the beach lies at the heart of being a carioca. As long as the beach is hot, the sky is blue and the beer is cold, life is worth living. Brazil is the world's largest Roman Catholic country. There is, however, a growing number of modern, evangelistic Protestant churches too. There is an English-speaking Anglican church in Rio, as well as several other churches where services are conducted in English. Ten years ago, very few Brazilians spoke any English. Now, it is likely that in large shops or restaurants in Rio, at least one member of staff will know a little English. However, a good command of Portuguese is essential for long term survival in Rio. There are many different types of Portuguese course available. Many expatriates choose to learn on a one-to-one basis with a teacher who comes to them at their convenience, rather than in a more rigid classroom setting. People speaking English are invariably assumed to be American. Getting around: Getting around within Rio can be a frustrating business. Traffic, especially during rush hours, can be terrible. Driving in Rio is not for the faint-hearted - it is not for nothing that one of the main thoroughfares is called Avenida Ayrton Senna. The surfaces of many roads are in bad condition and Brazilians in cars are generally neither courteous nor patient. Buses are cheap and plentiful, but can be a haven for pickpockets. Taxis are also readily available. There is a metro system, but it serves a very limited area, running north from Copacabana, through the centre of the city. Most makes of car are available in Rio and they are fractionally cheaper than in the UK. You can drive on the new type of British driving licence, but will need an authorised translation, renewed every year. Holders of old-style British licences will also need an International Driving Permit as well as a translation of the licence. Many people employ motoristas to drive them around - equally many others drive themselves. Once you've accepted that you need eyes in the back of your head, it's not so bad! Brazil is a huge and diverse country. As a result, the most convenient way of travelling between cities is by air, although this is expensive. Passenger train travel is virtually non-existent. There are good inter-city bus services, if you can afford the time. Around Rio, there are many lovely places to visit for weekends away and days out. Along the coast, places such as Angra, Parati and Buzios offer isolated beaches, colonial history and schooner trips.

Inland, remnants of Brazils' royal heritage can be seen in Petropolis. Other small towns in the mountains offer a welcome escape from the summer heat along with lots of outdoor activities. Further afield, north of Rio in the State of Minas Gerais, the old colonial gold mining towns are well worth a visit. Magnificent Ouro Preto and Diamantina both have world heritage listing. Housing: Most expatriates in Rio and many Brazilians live in "closed condominiums" - gated communities with 24 hour security - in either the zona sul or the zona oeste. In both areas, a wide variety of apartments are available for sale or rent - those with spectacular views are at a premium. If you want a house with a garden, it will invariably be in the new suburbs of Barra da Tijuca and Recreio in the zona oeste - one of the few places in Rio with space. Most families have a full-time maid, who may or may not live with them. Her salary will amount to between GBP 150 and GBP 200 per month. Education: There are a lot of good fee-paying schools in Rio, both Brazilian in origin and also international. The British School takes children aged 3-18 and has sites in both the zona sul and the zona oeste. There is also an American School, a small International School and various bilingual kindergartens.

Making the famous caipirinha Brazilian cocktail

Whilst the British and American schools follow the curricula of their respective countries and teach in English, the vast majority of their pupils are Brazilian. Expatriate pupils have daily Portuguese lessons - and need to get used to rice and black beans for lunch. There are door-to-door school bus services available for most schools, which can make life more manageable, depending on where you live and which school your children attend. Many older expatriate children go to boarding school in their home country. Generally, Brazilians love children - although not the raising of children, it would appear. Most professional and prosperous Brazilians hand over the daily lives of their children to a variety of domestic helpers such as nannies, maids and chauffeurs - and sometimes a combination of the three. It is expected that you will have 24 hour a day childcare on tap. School parents' days are just that - you go to school to talk to the teachers and the children stay at home all day. At arrival and pick-up times, school yards are packed with white-clad nannies, while the chauffeur waits in the car outside and keeps the air-conditioning running. This can make it hard for expatriate parents to meet local parents, as this pattern is repeated at other children's events, such as birthday parties and after-school activities as well. Children are welcome in most places and it is common to see very young children eating out with their parents late in the evening (often with the nanny too). Children's birthday parties in Rio are in a different league. It is common even for very young children to have lavish, lengthy, noisy parties which run on well into the evening and to which the parents invite almost everybody they know. Some parents will spend more on one child's birthday party than their maid earns in a year. Health: Rio has some excellent doctors and hospital facilities, but they come at a price, so health insurance is a important. In the private sector, it is normal for the doctor to ask you when an appointment would be convenient, and to apologise if a doctor is not immediately available. Emergency treatment in public hospitals is free and can be very good.

One of Rio's public hospitals has very skilled emergency teams and a reputation as the best trauma hospital in South America (they have plenty of practice). After an accident, you would actually be better off being taken there than to a private hospital, at least initially. Plenty of expatriates have babies in Rio - and those babies will automatically receive Brazilian nationality. Economy and Taxation: The economy is doing reasonably well at the moment. Rio is one of Brazil's major sea ports, various industries - including a growing oil and gas sector - are headquartered in the city and tourism brings in a lot of cash. The days of hyperinflation have long gone, although many Brazilians remain cautious about the future, and are reluctant to enter into long-term financial arrangements, such as mortgages. The Brazilian taxation system is fearfully complex. Anyone coming to live and work in Brazil should take expert advice on their particular situation. It is worth knowing that the Brazilian government taxes worldwide income - for example, rental income from a house in the UK is liable. It is possible, however, to claim tax deductions for payments towards private health and education. Security: Brazil has a bad reputation abroad for crime and violence. The worst of the violence - and it is shocking is confined within the favelas. There are certainly areas of the city which foreigners should take care to avoid - this includes all favelas. As in all big cities, street crime is a problem, but there are many ways in which you can reduce the risks. Dress to blend in with the locals, don't draw attention to yourself and keep your eyes open all the time. Keep your mobile to yourself, stick to junk jewellery and a cheap watch and carry only small amounts of cash. Entertainment: Living in Rio is an entertainment in itself, but should you need more, there is plenty on offer. Rio is, after all, a popular tourist destination. The world famous Sugar Loaf and Corcovado with Cristo Redentor (the statue of Christ) are all you could ever hope they would be. The views from both are stunning.

Rocinha shantytown in Rio

Being the former capital of Brazil, Rio has no shortage of beautiful buildings, churches and museums. There are plenty of cinemas - most film soundtracks are in English, with Portuguese subtitles, although children's films tend to be dubbed. There are theatres - most famously Rio's Teatro Municipal - which offer plays, concerts and ballets. Samba shows, giving a taste of Carnaval, also run year-round. And of course, there is Carnaval itself. Sportswise, virtually everything is available. There are many good sports clubs, offering high quality facilities and tuition to both adults and children. You begin to understand Brazil's success on the football field. On the beach, volleyball and surfing of every kind is popular. My husband is learning (successfully!) to surf at the tender age of 40. The Florestra da Tijuca offers hiking and walking trails right in the centre of the city. The more adventurous can parachute and hang glide from some of the many surrounding mountains. There are lots of good restaurants in Rio, serving all types of cuisine and generally eating out is not expensive. Traditional Brazilian food features large on many menus, whether it is the feijao (black beans), rice, pork fillet and kale associated with Minas Gerais, or dishes based on sea food and manioc from the country's north east.

Churrascarias - where a succession of different barbecued meats is brought to your table, until you really cannot eat another thing - are also very popular. Italian food of all kinds is widely available. The only notable absence is Indian food - even curry powder is impossible to get. Many Brazilians still eat their main meal at lunchtime, so long lunch hours even on weekdays are the norm. There are also a wide array of Brazilian desserts, many very sweet and based on doce de leite, a kind of caramel derived from condensed milk. Brazilian beer is very good - especially at a barraca on the beach as the sun sinks behind the mountains. Caipirinha - Brazil's national drink, concocted from crushed limes and sugar cane rum - is definitely addictive. Brazilian wine still leaves something to be desired - although they make a good bubbly. Decent, reasonably priced imported wine is widely available.

National Cultural Profiles Brazil

National Cultural Profiles are your guide to the thinking patterns of all the world's major cultures. Below is an extract from the Brazil profile, please follow the link where you can subscribe to read the profile in full.
Last Updated: 12:01am BST 19/12/2006

Introduction Cultural black holes Communication patterns Self-image Listening habits Concept of time Manners and taboos How to empathise with them

Introduction: Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world and has the planets largest rain forest and the Amazon is the worlds second longest river. Cultural black holes: Brazilians do not like to give bad news and tend to be over-optimistic. In business, you should be privately sceptical about their sales projections or estimates of delivery times. Communication patterns: Meetings in Brazil are extremely verbose and human feelings take precedence over close examination of the facts. Self-image: Brazilians consider themselves the champions of racial tolerance. Listening habits: Owing to the exuberance of expression of the Brazilians, their listening habits tend to be somewhat erratic - interrupting their interlocutor with ideas of their own, each individual wanting to make his personal contribution.

Concept of time: Brazilians actually believe it is impolite to arrive at someones house for dinner on time. Manners and taboos: Do not change places if a Brazilian seats himself down as the fourth person on a threeseater sofa - Brazilians excel as space invaders! As they are tactile in the extreme, accept with grace their armpatting and warm embrace. How to empathise with them: Brazilians often experience difficulty in rising above their peers and even talented individuals need frequent encouragement and on-going training to further their careers. The NCP database currently contains 70 profiles with more profiles being added all the time. The profiles on Expat Telegraph are mini-introductions. Full profiles go into much greater depth and details. Contact harold.formstone@rlcglobal.com for subscription details.