JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

MAY - JUNE 2009 | FREE

SPA Cuisine
at The Bale

Go Greek COMPETITION
at Kebab Palace FEVER AT
The Perfect SALON
PAVLOVA CULINAIRE
The Wine Dinner
Dilemma

TASTE
team
editorial consultant
Sarah Dougherty
contributors
Kathryn, Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina
Valkenburg, Es Dee, Kayti
coordinator & marketing
Miranti Amandya
photographers
Dewandra, Sarah, Mia, DeKa
graphic designers
DeKa
distribution
Gede Sudiartawan, Arif Junaidi
office
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn)
Travel Works Communication International
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali,
Indonesia
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189
E-mail: media@balichefs.com
Website: www.balichefs.com
pre press & printing by
PT. Dian Rakyat
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at
www.balichefs.com
4 TASTE | May - June 2009
TASTE
contents
5. President’s Message
6. Short Order
7. Victoria Comes to Indonesia
9. Salon Culinaire 2009
13
13. Brilliant Baguettes
16. Greek Kebab
18. A Culture of Service
23. Design Update
16 24. Raw Nature
26. The Wine Dinner
28. Arak with Sex Appeal
30. The Perfect Pavlova
32. Spa Cuisine at The Bale
28
38. Chef’s Day Out
Cover photograph of almond jelly with
grilled pineapple compote, coconut
cream and mango puree
Created by Brandon Huisman for Bliss
Spa at The Bale, Nusa Dua
Photo by Dewandra Djelantik
To all our members and friends
I am filled with pride at this time for
the skills of our local chefs. All the
participants from Indonesia tried so
hard and those that won were very
impressive in their events.
There are so many people to thank
from the BCP Committee members
and those who helped to mentor
the Bali teams, to the sponsors who helped us to realise our
success, the judges who were fair and encouraging and our
many supporters.
Bali once again won the Indonesian selection for the Asian
Pastry Cup and will represent Bali in Singapore in 2010 in the
lead up to the World Pastry Cup in 2011. we have great hopes
that these two talented pastry chefs, who have kept trying and
performed better each time, will have great success in their
careers and be great ambassadors for Indonesia.
For the Junior Chefs who practiced hard and bought home a
gold and a bronze I would like to say how proud we are. This is
a new program for us and to see the enthusiasm and hard work
that has gone into this event is very encouraging.
Special thanks to Stefan Mueller and Darren Lauder and Agus
Pandetria from Ayana, Oscar Perez and Vincent Stopin from St
Regis, Lotus distribution and all chefs who gave their support
and their contribution to make this event a great success.
Next year it is Bali’s turn to host the Salon Culinaire and I hope
we can do it as well as our sister organization in Jakarta did. It
was a great event.
Made Putra,
President BCP
Taste Magazine
This edition of Taste comes on the heels of some fantastic
performances by our local chefs at the Salon Culinaire 2009 in
Jakarta. Four Seasons Jakarta took out the highest honours to win
the gold trophy for best team. Bali’s team of pastry chefs came
hold with a gold trophy of their own and our young chefs did us
proud, bringing back a gold and a bronze medal for Bali.
presidents’ message
Dear members and Friends,
I have so many people to thank for
their tireless work, their wonderful
performances and their generous
sponsorship during the Salon
Culinaire in Jakarta this April.
The show attracted more competitors
than ever before and the ACP and
BCP committees had a lot to be proud of. The level of competition
attracted much prasie from an incredible line-up of judges, both
local and international
Congratulations to all the winners and those that tried so hard and
did not get a place, there is always next year in Bali.
I would also like to say a special thank you to the WACS
representatives that came to oversee the competition and our
wonderful guest judges who came from Singapore, Malaysia,
Hong Kong as well as Bali and Jakarta.
To the organising committee as well, I would like to express my
admiration for the ACP Organising committee who did such a
great job and were very busy throughout the event.
Finally the future of our local industry looks very healthy following
our first Asian Junior Chefs Challenge. Although the local teams
did not win the top place, Bali received a bronze and we saw
some very impressive effort. The Young Chefs Clubs are new to
Indonesia and the potential we saw was very encouraging.
I must also say a special congraulations to the team from Four
Seasons Jakarta, my home team, for winning the Gold Trophy for
Best Culinary team.
Once again thank you to all who made this event a very special one.
Vindex Valentino Tengker,
President ACP
As usual we have been treated to some great lunches and dinners
throughout the last two months, up-market, on the streets and
everything in between. You can read all about it in this isue.
The Wine dinner seems to be the flavour of the year, we look at the
hows and whys. And lastly we stopped for a few araks, it’s all about
going local these days. Enjoy.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 5
 short orders
Innovative Cream
for Professionals
Developed by New Zealand dairy company Fonterra with leading Australian
chef, Glenn Austin, head of WACS Pacific, Anchor Culinary Cream was
recently launched in Indonesia.
Already reduced by 30% the cream cuts cooking time and saves money as
less achieves the same result as regular cream. Practical testing has shown it
provides the best coat on pasta.
Sourced from grass fed cows, the cream has a rich colour and a fresh cream
taste. Best of all it is stabilised so it won’t react to heat or acid. As ambassador
for Fonterra, Glenn Austin claims this product is “revolutionary”.
Hatten Opens
The Cellar Door
The latest innovation from Hatten introduces screw top technology to their growing wine company.
Hatten Wines is a vigorous local company that are constantly upgrading their product and adding new
ranges. The BCP lunch guests at Sip restaurant were recently introduced to the company’s Pino de Bali,
an aperitif wine that is available in both red and white.
“The wine is made from Belgia grapes and Alphonse-Lavallee in the case of the white. It is aged in oak
barrels for one to two years before being bottled. Pino de Bali is a fortified wine, made using brandy
in the mix and is similar to a muscat.
It is available at the The Cellardoor on the By-Pass close to the Simpang Siur, Bali, Tel: 767422.
The Winner Takes It All
For Vindex Tengker, Executive Chef of Four Seasons
Jakarta and President of Jakarta ACP, (Association of
Culinary Professional), the Salon Culinaire 2009 was a
triumph on many levels.
The event was the largest in Indonesia to date and hosted
a number of prestigious competitions including the
Bocuse d’Or, among the most esteemed international
competitions for a single chef. It was also the first time
the Asian Junior Chefs Competition was held, inviting
regional teams to compete.
The first Barista Competition was also staged and turned
out to be a hot favourite with the audience who sat
cheering their favourites throughout the three day event.
However, it was Vindex’s own hotel, Four Seasons, who
took home the trophy for the best team overall in the
competition.
6 TASTE | May - June 2009
A FISH By Any
Other Name
Sourcing and supplying a wide variety of local seafood
is nothing new for Alam Boga who have established
partnerships with high quality handlers of local fish and
seafood which is sent daily to chefs in Bali, Lombok and
Jakarta.
What is new is the logo, which will now identify all their
seafood products. Combining the old word for island,
Noesa, with a graphic fish, Alam Boga will now have a
dedicated facility for packaging the fish and refrigerated
trucks that will bear the new label.
“We have been doing this for a long time now and we have
established trust with both our suppliers and our customers,
short orders
Kath Comes
to Maya
Maya Ubud Resort and Spa has recently announced the appointment
of a new Food and Beverage Director, Kath Townsend. Originally from
Sydney, Australia, Kath spent four years working with celebrity cookbook
author and restaurateur, Bill Granger as Executive Chef, working and
travelling with him. She also worked at the Sydney Opera House catering
events that sometimes involved hundreds and thousands of guests.
Most recently Kath has served as Executive Chef in the Maldives and
most recently in Vietnam. She will no doubt be a valuable addition to the
award winning resort in Ubud and to Bali’s Culinary Community.
For enquiries contact: marketing@mayaubud.com
who know that our seafood is properly processed through the cold chain,
at each stage of handling, preserving the integrity of the product,” explains
David Smith.
Alam Boga believe that the potential in Jakarta is big as the chefs do not
have the same access to local fish varieties as Bali does. The Noesa label
will feature on both wholesale and retail products.
Jakarta enquiries: 021 743 3003. For Bali 0361 720200.
Leony Opens
Leony is a great inspiration for other women who are committed to a
career in the male dominated world of cooking. At the recent opening of
Holiday Inn, Tuban, where she is now working as Chef de Cuisine, there
was not a wider smile to be seen.
The glamorous, refurbished property is the perfect fit for Leony Rosalia as
she moves up the ladder in her career. Confident, creative, hard working
and full of enthusiasm, she loves her job and it is clear that both the staff
and the guests love Leony.
To sample Leony’s cooking, check out the new Holiday Inn.
Jl. Wana Segara 33. T: 0361 755 577.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 7
 short orders
The Victorians
are serious about
Products included lamb, beef, seafood, a
wide variety of fresh and dried fruit and
cheese, naturally all accompanied by some
INDONESIA
great Australian wine supplied by Lotus.
“By working closely with the key-decision
makers in the Indonesian food service
sector, we are able to gain their confidence
in our processes and capitalise on new
Four Seasons Jakarta event with market opportunities.
Executive Chef Vindex Tengker
“Indonesia’s close proximity to Australia
and growing affluence as a nation makes it a
very important export market to Victoria.
“The country has grown to become
Victoria’s fifth most valuable food export
market, worth $304 million in 2007/08 –
an increase of 21 per cent over 2006/07.”
Mr Helper said as part of the Brumby
Government’s $205 million Future
A wealth of fresh Australian produce
Farming Strategy, almost $3 million
over three years had been dedicated to
Roland Lickert, chef and owner of Lamak, Ubud, shares a Crumbed beef cheks created for
improving our responses to market and
moment with the Victorians at Gourmet Garage. Victorian event at Conrad, Bali by
value-chain challenges with an emphasis
Richard Millar
on maintaining and gaining new market
access.
“Our Future Farming Strategy is developing
a more responsive and internationally
competitive agrifood sector that is able to
capture new market opportunities,” he said.
The Department of Primary Industries’
(DPI) Manager of Market Development
South-East Asia, Tim Roache, said ongoing
discussions between the two countries
The aim of the visit was for producers and exporters from Victoria to
and local agricultural exporters was vital
meet key people in the food and beverage industry.
to enhance market access and develop
the Indonesian market for Victorian food
The first event was held at the Four Seasons, Jakarta and hosted by
products.
ACP President, Vindex. The first Bali event gave Conrad’s Richard
Millar a chance to get creative with a variety of ingredients and host a
“We are continually working to cement our
dinner for a large groups of the island’s top chefs.
business relationship with Indonesia as one
of Victoria’s top 10 markets for agrifood
The following day Lotus hosted an event at Gourmet Garage which
exports,” Mr Roache said.
gave Bill Busch a chance to play with his favourite new toy, his Rational
Tim Roache
oven, turning out superb beef and lamb.
8 TASTE | May - June 2009
What’s
Your
Beef ?
It is now common practice for Australian
cattle to be transported to Indonesia to cater
to the local market and although there is a
way to go, it is obvious that there is a market
for local beef and huge potential.
One of Australia’s largest and oldest
companies, Elders, has entered the
Indonesian market with a product branded
Sterling Beef, produced in Java and
represented by Sukanda Djaya.
Dressed in national costume, including his
Akubra hat, President Director, Richard
Slaney was on hand to discuss the merits of
his local beef. “ We have set up a unique
business model for Indonesia and we are
constantly upgrading the product.”
“Our beef is all produced from Australian
cattle that is flown in at age 18 months to
two and a half years, then fed at our lot for
100 days before being slaughtered. Our
biggest competitor is Suntory, the local
leader, but we are making improvements all
the time and seeing our market expanding,”
he explains.
As the major problem with the local beef
is not the cattle or the abattoir conditions,
some of which are world class, but the short
aging process, Richard addressed this.
“ Our normal process involves processing
the cows, cold-boning them and chilling
the carcasses for 20 hours before packaging
them and holding them for two days. After
this they are re-inspected and distributed.
Richard Slaney
“We would like to age it longer but it
isn’t feasible logistic-wise,” he says. Many
Australian companies also have to rely
on their distributors to age the meat,
However Richard points out that their
premium product, their prime rib, is dry-
aged for 3 months.
“No one really does this here as it is costly
and we lose between 40-50% of the
product in the process. It is only a small
line currently but it is our best,” he says.
Ultimately his opinion is that taste comes
with age, you need some big, old, fat, cattle
for the best meat.
Only two and a half years old, Sterling’s
abattoir is located within the grounds of
the university at Bogor and they have a
commitment to provide training for students
bound for local government jobs in food-
related fields as well as veterinary students.
The company also sells live cows, representing
about 30% of their business.
The other local beef companies at the
exhibition were Bina Mentari Tungall
who’s local beef products include Kibif,
their domestic product and Orin beef,
their premium line, and Bali Beef, an
emerging brand.
Contacts for Sterling Beef: Richard Slaney
(021) 78840708, slaney@elders.com.au or
through Sukanda Djaya.
PT. Bina Mentari Tunggal: (0260) 461539.
 Salon Culinaire 2009
Jakarta
Wayan and Made practice at St
Regis (top)
30 International judges and repre-
sentatives from WACS gathered for
the Salon Culinaire 2009 (above)
10 TASTE | May - June 2009
Held in conjunction with the Food and Hotel Expo in April, the Salon
Culinaire showcased the skills of professional chefs in three days of hotly
contested competitions.
For the first time representatives from WACS, (World Association
of Chefs) was invited to oversee the level of professionalism at the
competition. Presidents of other regional chefs’ clubs were among the
prestigious line-up of judges, which included leading chefs from around
the world.
Throughout Asia the competition circuit is gaining momentum and
junior chefs have now been included in with an event of their own. The
Association of Culinary Professionals, Jakarta (ACP) put enormous
effort into the event. Major sponsors provided product and equipment
for the show.
This is the most professional and largest show and competition staged in
Jakarta with the standards clearly very high among the medal winners.
Jakarta Four Seasons won the trophy for best overall in the competition.
On every level throughout the competition medal winners exhibited
both creativity and skill in their chosen area.
The next Salon Culinaire will be held in Bali in 2010.
The Judges
A line-up of industry professionals from around the world made up
the panel of judges for this year’s Salon Culinaire. Representatives
from the World Association of Chefs Society were also asked to oversee
the competition to ensure that as Indonesia enters the world culinary
stage, participating increasingly in International events, the standard is
consistent with major events elsewhere.
Eduard Betz of Hotel Borobudur, Jkarta was appointed co-ordinator
for the event and had the highest praise for the judging, an important
component of world-class events.
Kenny Kong, President of Singapore Pastry Alliance, praised the
organisers and called the event both “intense and memorable.”
While John Sloane head of WACS Asia wrote to say, “I have heard many
good things about the event. It’s a great start and may it continue. Vindex
& Made are to be congratulated for great coordination.”
Billy Marinelli, owner of Marinelli Shellfish Company and a restaurant
owner, was one of the guest judges for the Bocuse d’Or. He also served
throughout the competition on other events, including the Junior Chef
Challenge.
He offered this feedback:
“All of the judges agree that the biggest
mistake made is NOT tasting the food.
“Not enough seasonings. No salt in the
water when cooking vegetables, main
courses not seasoned, salads for garnish
not dressed... TASTE your food while
cooking!
Hot food being served on cold plates! Trying
too hard to impress with presentation and
not being concerned with flavor, texture
and hot food being served hot.
“I am certain there would be a marked
improvement, and more medals, if the
teams would only taste, season and properly
serve their food. Basic cooking skills 101.”
All the team leaders agreed that the judges
were fair and encouraging. “Being exposed
to this level of competition in front of
judges who are among the most successful
in their field is an invaluable experience for
our chefs. It is the ‘Idol” of cooking and
each time the standards get better and
better,” says Darren Lauder Executive Chef
of Nusa Dua Beach Hotel and team leader
for Bali’s Junior Chefs.
Bali Brings Home Asian
Pastry Cup
TThe talented team of Balinese pastry chefs,
Wayan Laspina and Made Sutisna impressed
the judges with their skill, creativity and
expertise to win the Indonesian selection and
a gold medal in the Asian Pastry Cup at the
Salon Culinaire 2009 in Jakarta.
The Indonesian winners of The Asian Pastry
Cup, Wayan, now at St Regis, and Made from
Ayana Resort and Spa, now have three years
experience competing, gaining valuable skills
with each attempt. Last year they scored well
in the Singapore regional competition but
failed to get the nomination for World Pastry
Gold! Bali’s chocolate scuplture
with dessert
Cup in Lyon, France. This year however the
team believe they have an added advantage in
the form of their mentor, St Regis’ pastry chef
Vincent Stopin.
According to St Regis’ Executive Chef, Oscar
Perez, there is a great deal more preparation
that needs to be done before these young chefs
are ready to compete on the world stage.
“However,” he says, “we have the advantage of
time on our side as the Singapore competition
is almost a year away.”
It is a long road to Lyon where the World
Pastry Cup is held every two years, and the
competition is fierce. Teams from around the
world spend large sums of money and invest
months, and sometimes years, to win this
prestigious prize. With each successive win,
however, our team gets closer, having just
missed the top four selection in Singapore
last year.
It is a gruelling event as well. A team of two
chefs have to prepare four show-pieces in eight
hours in front of the judges. These include a
sugar piece, a chocolate piece, a dessert and a
chocolate cake.
Gold! Sweet success for Bali at
Salon Culinaire 2009
Sponsorship is a big factor for local teams with
some countries sending their pastry chefs to
Lyon to study and practice in advance of
the competition. “ It is a very serious level of
competition and highly regarded,” explains
team leader Stefan Mueller, F&B Director of
Nikko Resort.
“Nevertheless another win this time is a
great confidence builder for our local team.
They have taken firm steps in the right
direction, they are ambitious and motivated”
commented Stefan.
The team owe special thanks to:
• St. Regis (for providing their facilities - thanks
to Oscar Perez, and expertise of pastry chef
Vincent for the training of APC teams, as well
providing essential equipment for the teams to
use during their competition)
• The Ayana Resort & Spa (for freeing their
staff to participate as well the Executive Sous
Chef as team co-ordinator for APC Pak Agus)
• Nikko Bali Resort & Spa (for freeing their
pastry chef to participate)
• Gourmet Garage & Bill Busch (for handling
all logistics of equipment for the teams)
• Le Bake and J.P. Petit for support with
equipment.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 11
 Darren Lauder with the Young Chefs
at Denpasar Airport (right)
Bali Junior Chefs show off their
medals. Arfan has gold. (below)
Winning entry by Junior Chefs Kuala
Lumpur (bottom)
First Asian Junior Chefs
Challenge
One of the greatest initiatives of the past
twelve months has been the introduction
of the young chefs clubs in Bali and
Jakarta. The recent Salon Culinaire in
Jakarta hosted the first Asian Young Chefs
challenge, giving our local teams the
chance to compete against Malaysia and
Singapore for the first time.
In a standout effort, A Alfan M of The
Loop Restaurant in Canggu easily won
the gold medal, for a beautifully executed,
spicy chilli crab ravioli with a creamy fennel
sauce and confit fennel salad.
The more established teams from Malaysia
and Singapore took home the gold and
silver in the live cooking competition
which required each team to prepare a
three course menu in 120 minutes. The
Bali team comprising three young chefs,
came in a very close third to take home
the bronze.
Jatu Rizki Putra Aburantha of Four
Seasons, together with I Made Putra
Susila and Ivan Suputra (both students at
STP) put in a great effort to impress the
judges but were outmatched by the more
experienced teams.
Representing the World Association
12 TASTE | May - June 2009
Pass The Fish plates, causing the sauce to become
congealed and almost inedible. At this level
world get together in Lyons in order to
give an incredible performance involving
these kind of basic rules should not even be the preparation of two exceptional dishes
Not a man to mince his words, guest judge
a consideration. There is still a long way to within 5 hours and 30 minutes, in front of
Otto Weibel claimed that the entries in
go for some of these chefs,” he said. the public, the press and the jury.
this year’s Bocuse d’Or ranged from vastly
improved to others who failed to perform
The winners of the Jakarta Selection for the Named for legendary chef paul Bocuse,
on the day.
Bocuse d’Or Asia were Guruh Nugraha the competition goes back to 1983, when
and Zahirsyah Basyaruddin from Parklane the Salon des Métiers de Bouche (Culinary
Having competed internationally himself
Hote, Jakarta who presented two dishes Sector Exhibition and Trade Fair) was
and currently Director of Kitchens
that delighted the judges. created in Lyon - “An exhibition organised
for Stamford group and Fairmont in
by professionals for professionals.” Lyon,
Singapore, Otto is regarded very highly in
The first Bocuse d’Or Asia gathered 10 the renowned gastronomic capital was
the culinary community and his opinion
countries during Gourmet World Shanghai, lacking an event that could live up to its
carries great weight.
29th-31st of May 2008, at Pudong Expo in worldwide reputation.
of Chefs Societies for Asia (WACS),
Singapore-based Alan Orreal, who is
Along with a team of highly regarded
Shanghai-China.
With around 500 exhibitors and 51.000
heading up the Asian Young Chefs
judges, including Kenny Kong President
of Singapore Pastry Alliance, Federico
The event was part of a movement that aims visitors, the exhibition was a great success.
programs, was impressed and encouraged at setting up a high standard on the way to A success story confirmed with the 2nd
Michiellto, President of Chefs Association
by this first Asian challenge. the Bocuse d’Or World Finals in Lyons. edition in 1985 at Eurexpo, the new Lyon
of Malaysia and seafood supplier, Billy
The 10 countries that competed in 2008 Exhibition Centre, with 750 exhibitors
Marinelli,, the contestants had to prepare
“It is an important program for WACS as were: China, India, Indonesia, Japan, and 70.000 visitors. Following this success,
a salmon and a meat dish live in front of
the future is all about encouraging young Lebanon, Malaysia, Singapore, South on January 24th 1987 Bocuse d’Or was
a panel of judges. The level of creativity
chefs. In other parts of the world there Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam. formally created.
was for the most high, with some entries
are great opportunities for young chefs to
worthy of a fine dining restaurant.
improve their skills and compete on an
international level. With an increase in
History of Bocuse d’Or Jakarta Park Lane took the honours to
represent Indonesia in the next round of
Otto Weibel commented that some of the
sponsorship, WACS is now focussing on the Asian competition.
entries were not of such high standard. Since 1987, every two years, 24 chefs
Asia in order to give these young people
“Simple mistakes like not warming the selected from the best kitchens in the
the same chances,” he explains.
Competitions are invaluable for junior
The salmon keeps coming at Bocuse
chefs and with increased sponsorship they d’Or selection.
can now access international scholarships.
“The more competitions they enter, the
better their chances are. They are judged
on everything from their prep and kitchen
skills to cleanliness, teamwork and on the
final product. Taste makes up a large part
of the marks,” explains Darren Lauder of
Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, team manager for
the Bali Junior Chefs.
“Overall, I am very pleased with the
results and the team are realistic about
where they performed well and where they
can improve.”
A special thanks to Sukanda Djaya from the
Junior Chefs for their generous sponsorship.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 13
 Brilliant
Baguettes
The baguette is to the French what rice
is to the Asians. According to French
baker, Carrefour’s Denis, it is the first
food many French people remember
having and it is eaten every day.
This is, however, possibly the most abused
bakery product, apart from the sliced loaf.
To get it right takes experience, skill and love
according to Denis.
Carrefour, a French supermarket chain, is
quickly building their Asian business. Hiring
Denis to head up their bakery business has
resulted in unprecedented success in their
Bali store. This is a man who loves to come
to work, gets a real kick out of passing on
his skill and truly enjoys seeing his customers
arrive and pick up the bread, smell it, break
pieces off to eat before they have even paid.
Carrefour’s bakery produces an amazing
variety of breads, freshly baked on the
premises. He makes predominantly two
types of baguette, a classic and a lamourette,
which are among the most popular items in
the store. He also shapes the dough and adds
flour to create a rustic loaf.
“The traditional baguette is still a favourite.
We produce over 200 per day, all by hand,
and usually we bake three times a day.
Making the baguettes by hand produces a
completely different result than the machine-
made ones. The holes are not even and this is
how you can tell,” he enthuses.
“My recipe uses 10% sourdough, which is
made from the old dough which I keep a
minimum of four days. This gives the crisp
texture to the crust and also gives a great
flavour to the bread.”
“I can teach my staff to cook the bread we
produce here. I can show them over and over
but I cannot pass my experience on to them,
that is something they must learn over time.
If they make a mistake I can tell straight
away, just by looking, what has gone wrong,”
he explains.
There are a few things that are absolute rules
in baking bread. Denis says he now has all
the best equipment, something he is very
happy with, but he still teaches his staff to
feel the bread, not to rely on machines.
“In baking bread you must pay close attention
to the temperature. The temperature of the
water is important and the temperature that
the dough reaches while mixing it. I don’t use
a thermometer, I can feel by touching it and
I teach my staff to do the same. Bread is a
lot to do with feeling. You feel the elasticity,
the heat, the rise, it can change with different
equipment and environments and that is why
experience is so important,” he continues.
Denis has adapted his recipe and technique to
the tropics. You need to create a firmer crust
here and cook it a little longer than normal so
the crust doesn’t soften up too quickly.
“I mix my dough carefully. Slowly at first
and then faster until it reaches 24 degrees.
Then rest it for 30 minutes before forming
it and proving for one and half hours. I then
take a special knife to make the marks in the
dough and cook it 18 to 20 minutes in a
220 degree oven.”
Denis says there is a sound when the bread
emerges from the oven, it is not only the
smell of the freshly baked loaves that calls to
the customers who seem to head straight for
the bakery section almost as if hypnotised.
Denis says this job is his dream come true.
After 25 years as a baker, he has finally
come out – of the kitchen that is. He loves
watching people choose the bread, smell the
bread and especially watching Indonesian
customers taking a chance on something
new. He is also happy to take special orders
and has created a market in par-baked bread
that is proving popular.
He is also creating incredible patisserie, at
a fraction of the cost of his competitors.
He claims there is no reason customers a
high price, his costings are realistic and he
is making a profit selling individual tarts
and pastries like his famous millefeuile for
under Rp8,000.
Being creative in his role is also important
to him, expanding the range to wedding
cakes, specialty cakes and more. “I am now
working on funny cakes for children. People
tell me I look like Mr Bean, so I want to put
Mr Bean’s head on a Spiderman body – a
Spiderbean cake!.”
May - June 2009 | TASTE 15
 The TASTE of
An unassuming place, despite the sheesha Herbs lift a simple cheese bourek
pipes and the belly dancer, Kebab Palace is a out of the ordinary

GREECE
great example of how simple food can be and
yet still be fabulous. Roadside in Jl. Kartika
Plaza, aluminium tables and vinyl chairs
are laid out, the interior features a simple
counter with stacks of chicken and imported
lamb turning on the doner kebabs and large
photos of the various house specialties.

Truly authentic food has the power to transport you; to another time,
another place. Kebab Palace is a place where a single bite can transport you
to the streets of Istanbul, a taverna in Athens, a middle-eastern bazaar.
Photos by Demetrios Spanakis
Kebab Palace has the usual line-up of Greek,
Turkish and some Middle Eastern specialties.
What is startling is how authentic they
taste. Souvlaki is freshly sliced as you order, Pygmalion Diakoudis
slathered in tzatiki, dressed with red onions
and tomatoes and laid on the freshly baked
pita bread. These are produced at owner/
chef Pygmalion Diakoudis’s home every day
and sent to various restaurants in addition
to his own.

All the preparation of the meat, from

filleting to marinade is done on the premises
and Pygmalion is there every day to check
that everything is perfect. Beef and lamb
come from Australia, his herbs and spices
from Greece where possible. The menu
features kebabs of all types, falafel, cheese
pies, simple salads full of flavour and a list
of typical home-made desserts, including a
wonderful baklava.
Both the Greek and the Turkish cultures have
a tradition of food that depends largely on
taste. The best recipes are not written but felt.
So it is when you meet with Pygmalion to
attempt to get recipes. He will happily talk
you through them, moustache twitching,
but nothing is written down, quantities are
estimates. “So what do you want to know?”
he asks.
Chicken or lamb doner
at Kebab Palace
“Take minced beef, we make so many
different dishes with this,” he explains as we sit
in Seminyak restaurant Panterei, Pygmalion’s
first Greek restaurant where he has recently
returned to the kitchens as a consultant.
To illustrate his point about the herbs he asks
the staff to prepare two types of meatballs.
One is a dolmades-type (wrapped) in cabbage,
the other a simple meatball (kefte) pan-fried
and then stewed in home-made tomato sauce.
The kefte tastes distinctly of cumin although
notes of the oregano are also there.
can taste so vastly different.
Kebab Palace doesn’t do this fancy stuff, it
is purely basic, but from the moustachioed
types hanging out for their take-away, you
can tell the Greeks and the Turks have
discovered this place. They aren’t the only
ones; apart from his consulting to Panterei
and Taman Selini in Pemuteran, he is also
in demand for events, called on by M&M
Catering as well as private clients. He has a
healthy business selling his bread, falafel and
pizza to local businesses.

To appreciate the depth of flavour you have
to taste it for yourself and by comparing
dishes that have the same basic ingredients,
you realise that in this style of cooking it is
the herbs, and the combination of them,
that gives each dish its characteristics; wild
oregano, cumin, dill, lemon of course,
paprika, thyme and oregano. Rather than
flavouring the food, the herbs are at the
Falafel bursts with flavour and forefront and are distinctive in each dish.
freshness
The dolmades are a heady mixture of rice
and mince, with an unmistakeable flavour of
dill, they are wrapped in par-boiled cabbage,
weighted and cooked in a casserole with water,
lemon juice and olive oil. Left to absorb the
liquid, which is then used as a warm broth to
“cook” the eggs for the heavenly avgolemono
sauce, which is liberally tipped over them. It
is time-consuming and hardly as simple as it
looks. It is astounding how two mince dishes
A Greek born in Turkey, with a Turkish
business partner, Pygmalion is a man who
spans two cultures whose tastes have a lot in
common. Kebab Palace is the perfect place
to discover them, and don’t forget to ask
Pygmalion for any recipes you might want.
Take a pen because he won’t be writing them
out any time soon.
Kebab Place:
Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta Centre T: 758075

May - June 2009 | TASTE 17

 gourmet traveller
Service So Good
Frank Koppelkamm
Chef de Cuisine of Prime Steakhouse
at The Ritz-Carlton, Jakarta
18 TASTE | May - June 2009
They Wrote
a Book About It
By Sarah Dougherty - Taste Editorial Consultant
A funny thing happened on my way to Ritz
Carlton in Jakarta. Instead of heading for the
Kuningan property I arrived by mistake at Pacific
Place. I had researched steak houses and decided
I would review Jakarta’s most awarded restaurant
of this type, Prime Restaurant.
Unfortunately between emails, I forgot to enquire
which of their two properties it was located in.
The staff reacted instantly when I arrived, before
I had a chance to smoke a cigarette, I was in a
Silver Bird Taxi headed for the older property
and feeling a little let down.
However, when a grand colonial building came
into view I started to sense this wasn’t such a bad
thing. Three staff met me at the door, including
the immaculate Public Relations manager, Els,
apologised for the mistake (mine, entirely) and
led me through the classically decorated lobby
into the lounge where I was given a cold beer and
made to feel like I had arrived home.
My room, that I had far too little time to indulge
in, was stunning. Located on the 23rd floor,
with floor to ceiling windows that opened onto
a glittering sky-line, sumptuous carpet and so
much space I felt like I should throw a party. The
bathroom was incredible with a bath that also
overlooked the glittering city. Dinner followed
soon after and a group of us sat down. The waiter
was incredibly well informed, almost intuitive,
about what we might like for an entrÈe. The steak
menu was just that. A selection of various cuts of
US Prime beef sat beside a selection of Australian
wagyu steaks of varying grades and cuts.
The Chef Frank Koppelkamm sat down for a
while and explained that although the wagyu is
very popular, especially with Asian guests who
appreciate the soft texture, for him, he likes his
steak with a little bit of fat, and he prefers his
prime beef from the US as he feels it has more
flavour. For his wagyu he favours the Australian.
“I like to keep things simple. Food should look
like food, taste like food, I don’t have much
time for molecular inventions. My sauces are
flavourful, the steaks speak for themselves,” he
explains. It has earned him two awards this year
alone, so obviously this formula works.
I chose the best wagyu (9+), luckily offered in
two portion sizes, I chose the 120 grams with a
red wine sauce, and could not have eaten
more. It was rich, cut like butter and the
sauce was perfect.
The next morning I luxuriated in my room
before heading to the top floor for breakfast
in desperate need of a coffee. When I spied
the regular-sized coffee cups I pleaded
with the waitress to find me a larger one.
She promptly removed one from a display,
offered to wash it and served my steaming
mug of life-saving caffeine.
Breakfast was a magnificent buffet served
with the city waking up around me.
On leaving she offered a Ritz Carlton mug
and explained she would keep it on the Club
floor especially for me. I didn’t explain I was
checking out, she was so sweet about it.
I returned to my room and the doorbell rang.
It was the same waitress with a boxed mug
and a handwritten card. She had discovered
I was checking out and she handed me the
mug and the card with a smile and said she
hoped it would be a reminder of my stay.
The card was simply written and left me with
a sense of wonder. She simply expressed her
hope that each time I used the mug I would
have fond memories of my stay and she
thanked me for coming.
That waitress and that experience come to
mind more often than I reach for a coffee, it
was spectacular.
THE “NEW GOLD STANDARD”
In light of my experience I am therefore not
surprised to find that best-selling US author
Dr. Joseph A. Mitchelli has recently released
an entire book devoted to the service ethic
of Ritz-Carlton that has been endorsed by
many business leaders and is being widely
used as a model for customer service
standards.
Dr. Michelli noted: “After my book ‘The
Starbucks Experience’ made the global
bestseller lists, I was approached by many
companies asking me to profile them.
However, I created my own short list
of corporations with a track record of
exceptional customer experiences – The
Ritz-Carlton was at the top of that list.
When I approached them with the idea,
many conversations took place with senior
management. The decision was made to
provide in-depth access and to share a
candid view of the company’s business
practices, culture, strategy, breakdowns and
challenges.”
In “The New Gold Standard” Michelli takes
an in-depth look at how such an iconic
brand stays relevant in changing times,
the importance of over communicating
company values, maintaining a vital and
engaged work force, and transferring trust
to empowerment. He also attended sessions
of The Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center,
an award-winning training facility for
corporate executives and business owners.
From that experience, the author identifies
several key points which help explain the
enduring reputation for excellence of the
hotel company which traces its roots back
to legendary hotelier Cesar Ritz in the
early 1900s.
The points include: understanding the ever-
evolving needs of the customers; empowering
employees by treating them with the
utmost respect; anticipating customers’
unexpressed needs and concerns; enabling
guests to design their own experience; and
developing and conducting an unsurpassed
training regime. At the end of each chapter,
Dr. Michelli poses questions for readers to
consider about their own business practices
and corporate culture.
The “New Gold Standard” is published by
McGraw Hill.
Prime Steakhouse
Ritz Carlton Kuningan
JL. Lingkar Mega Kuningan, Jakarta
T: (021) 2551 8876.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 19
 advertorial
$ave Your Money
– no wastage with RATIONAL
SelfCooking Center
Fantastic results are guaranteed with
RATIONAL SelfCooking Center AND
you save money by reducing shrinkage to
an absolute minimum.
Watching the budget is essential for every
working chef and reducing shrinkage of raw
materials is one way to ensure your costs are
reduced.
For special events why not try a succulent
honey and mustard roast ham slowly cooked
in the RATIONAL SelfCooking Center®. A
fantastic looking centre piece that will be
bursting with flavour and mouth wateringly
juicy.
Simply cook hams in advance under the
20 TASTE | May - June 2009
moist cooking function and automatically
benefit from the very gentle cooking Delta
T technique. Delta T cooks the food
by maintaining a constant temperature
difference between the meat and the
cooking chamber. This means that as the
meat rises in temperature so does the
SelfCooking Center®. Another added
benefit of Delta T is that due to the gentle
cooking process, shrinkage is reduced to an
absolute minimum; therefore raw material
costs are also kept low.
There is also no need to enter any cooking
temperature or time and thanks to the
SelfCooking Centers® ability to cook
overnight you can also win the night as
additional production capacity. Turning,
watching or controlling the cooking process
is a thing of the past as SelfCooking Control®
takes care of everything for us.
Giving you time to think up that special
marinade. Experiment with bourbon
whiskey or scrumpy jack cider and of
course there’s all those different mustards
and honeys to try out too. When you enter
the kitchen in the morning the SelfCooking
Center® will be in a holding & maturing
phase which will simply increase the quality
even further. Then simply baste your ham in
that special marinade and finish the roasting.
Immediately freeing up your SelfCooking
Center® so that it’s ready to prepare your
vegetables and side dishes.
Why not take advantage of what the
SelfCooking Center® can offer you. Using
moist cooking with the “Delta T technique”
will also bring similar benefits from boiled
beef, vitello-tonnato, gammon and much
more.
Contact:
RATIONAL International AG
Millie Chan
Sales Director International partner Business
Indonesian Mobile: + 62 815 5892 5618
Philippines Mobile: + 63 927 3683 348
PT Gastro Gizi Sarana
Commercial Kitchen, Catering, Laundry,
Refrigeration
and Stainless Steel Fabrication.
Bali Office and Showroom :
Sunset Road (Next to Carrefour Kuta)
Denpasar – Bali
P : (0361) 8477 330
F : (0361) 8477 234
E : gastro@dps.centrin.net.id
 advertorial design update

tables of
TRADITION
Mr Ubud
We call it a ‘Sulinggih’ experience and everything
from the food to the music and the atmosphere
create a balance we refer to as Bali Taksu,” explains
the General Manager who is known locally as Mr
Ubud.
“The food is calculated very carefully to balance
the spices. Our own spice is made up of 98%
Basa Basic (chopped spices) and finished with
aromatic spices. The basic spices used are daun
salam (local bay leaf ), shallots, galangal, shallots,
garlic, lemongrass and tumeric with chilli. The
Inspiration happens at
Hospitality Essentials
Hospitality Essentials is a dedicated
company that caters to the hospitality
industry. Their team of designers will create
a range based on the needs of the customers
or work with existing designs in the range to
tailor a perfect match.
The innovative company is up to date with
international trends and responsible for
creating some themselves. The showroom
is a great source of inspiration and the
personal service each customer receives has
made them one of the Bali’s most successful
suppliers of quality ranges for the hospitality
industry. Here we feature two of their latest
range but also urge you to meet with their
designers and wander the showroom in
search of inspiration for your next project,
large or small.
Baskets, baskets, baskets!
Baskets offer a versatile solution to many
service and presentation challenges! The
Hospitality Essentials catalogue already
boasts a wide range of woven baskets in all
shapes, sizes and colours for uses such as
laundry, valet return and food presentation!
The options are endless! As with all of the
products, each basket can be customized
according to requirements - making them a
versatile addition to any accessories range.
Grid Collection - New Additions!
Hospitality Essentials has recently added some
new items to the popular Grid Collection to
create a clean, modern look suitable for both
island and corporate properties. As with all of
their ranges it can be finished in a variety of
different shades, allowing you to customise
to suit each individual property’s interior
design concept.

Bamboo Collection
aromatics we include are coriander, white pepper,
sesame, chilli, candlenut and clove.”

Padi Prada Resto has long been a favourite of

locals and tourists alike for their traditional
atmosphere and authentic recipes.
Perched over magnificent rice fields, the restaurant
has earned a reputation among those seeking a
real Balinese experience, far from the modern
creations that are now so popular. Artfully
presented food is carefully and hygienically
prepared offering diners the assurance of years of
trusted service and experience.
“A specialty of our restaurant is high Balinese
food, the food traditionally served in the homes
and palaces of royals and distinguished guests.
The restaurant has remained true to its authentic
roots and has claimed a market among people
who want to experience classical Balinese food.
by Jenggala
The main attraction is the local crispy-fried duck. Jenggala Ceramics latest collection finds its inspiration in
“When dealing with local duck it is important nature.
to buy the freshest possible, many are still alive.
Then the duck must be deodorised, de-feathered The Bamboo Bath Collection places the bamboo shape
and then carefully fried so it has a lovely colour, in various orientations including a tissue box, soap dish,
is crisp outside and not dried out,” Mr Ubud shampoo and conditioner dispensers, toothbrush cup
points out to us, taking great pride in offering an and cotton bud container, fit nicely onto a bamboo tray.
authentic dining experience which many visitors
claim is difficult to find these day. Bamboo Jug Set is inspired by the shape of cups and jugs
used in the Indonesian tradition of drinking ‘tuak’. The
Padi Prada glaze finishes diversify with four different colors to mix
Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. T: (0361) 978972 and match with the large jug and individual cups.

22 TASTE | May - June 2009

 News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm
Raw Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis
After writing about “Les Fines Herbs” I think it is important that I write about the other
French blend of herbs I mentioned in the last issue, the “Bouquet Garni”. The classic one is
made with 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, and 1 bay leaf, however I like to add to mine
1 sprig of Rosemary as well.
These herbs, are used for their pungent and
resinous characteristics, and are typically used
in dishes that cook for a long time to release
their flavour.
The herbs are either bundled together with a
natural string or they are put in a cheesecloth
bag, so that they can be removed at the end
of the cooking.
Parsley is used in the Fines Herbs as well
as the Bouquet Garni, and having already
written about it in the previous article, I will
omit it in this one.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) is a small plant with
tiny leaves, which are greenish grey in colour.
The name derivates from a Greek word that
means to fumigate, as it was used as incense
for its balsamic odor and was believed to put
to flight all venomous creatures. The Romans
used it to flavour cheeses and liqueurs.
The essential oil of thyme is thymol, an
antiseptic, which is the main active ingredient
in Listerine mouthwash. Before the advent of
modern antibiotics, it was used to medicate
bandages. Thyme boiled in water and cooled
is very effective against inflammation of the
throat when gargled 3 times a day. A tea made
by the herb in water can be used for coughs
and bronchitis. It is a good source of iron.
24 TASTE | May - June 2009
• Rosemary
Thyme, while flavourful, does not overpower
and blends well with other herbs and spices.
Is often used to flavour meats, soups and
stews. It has a particular affinity to and is
often used as a primary flavour with lamb,
tomatoes and eggs. In some Middle Eastern
countries, the condiment za’atar ( Arabic for
thyme) contains thyme as a vital ingredient.
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis) is the aromatic leaf
of Bay laurel, it originated in Asia Minor,
from where it spread to the Mediterranean
countries. The laurel tree that the bay
leaf comes from was very important both
symbolically and literally in both Greece and
Rome as a symbol of honor. Emperors, heroes
and poets wore wreaths of laurel leaves.
The association with honour and glory continues today;
we have poet laureates (Apollo was the God of poets), and
bacca-laureate means “laurel berries” which signifies the
completion of a bachelor degree.
Bay leaf contains compounds called parthenolides, which
have proven useful as an herbal remedy in the treatment
of migraines. It has also been shown to help the body
process insulin more efficiently, which leads to lower
blood sugar levels.. Bay leaves and berries have been
used for their astringent, carminative, digestive, diuretic,
emetic and stomachic properties to reduce the effects of
stomach ulcers. Bay Leaf contains eugenol, which has
anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Bay leaf is
also an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial.
Bay leaves, an appropriate seasoning for fish, meat and
poultry, are widely used throughout the world to flavour
soups, sauces, stews and courts-bouillons. They are often
included as a pickling spice.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) has fragrant evergreen
needle-like leaves. The name derives from the Latin name
rosmarinus, which is from “dew” (ros) and “sea” (marinus),
or “dew of the sea”, because in the Mediterranean Region
where it originated, it is frequently found growing near
the sea.
Rosemary has a very old reputation for improving
memory, and has been used as a symbol for remembrance
(during weddings, war commemorations and funerals) in
Europe and Australia.
• Thyme Rosemary contains a number of potentially biologically
active compounds, including antioxidants such as carnosic
acid and rosmarinic acid. The results of a study suggest
that carnosic acid may shield the brain from free radicals,
lowering the risk of strokes and neurodegenerative diseases
like Alzheimer’s and Lou Gehrig’s. Rosemary helps to relax
muscles, including the smooth muscles of the digestive
tract and uterus. Because of this property it can be used to
soothe digestive upsets and relieve menstrual cramps.
However in large amounts it can achieve the opposite
effect. Cosmetically, an infusion can be used as a rinse
to lighten blond hair, to condition and tone all hair and
mixed half and half with shampoo to strengthen hair.
Fresh rosemary is used to flavour soups, stews and meat
• Italian Parsley dishes especially lamb and chicken.
Potato and Leek Soup
with Bouquet Garni
INGREDIENTS
• 1 large or 2 small leeks, about 1 pound
• 3 sprigs Dr. Rocket organic parsley
• 1 bay leaves
• 1 sprig Dr. Rocket organic thyme
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 strips bacon, chopped
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 5 cups chicken stock
• 1 to 1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes,
diced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper
• 1/2 to 3/4 cup creme fraiche or
heavy cream
• 2 tablespoons snipped Dr Rocket
organic chives
PREPARATIONS
Trim the green portions of the leek and, using 2 of the largest and longest
leaves, make a bouquet garni by folding the 2 leaves around the parsley,
the bay leaf and the thyme. Tie into a package-shaped bundle with kitchen
twine and set aside. (Alternately, tie 2 leek leaves, parsley, bay leaf and
thyme together in a piece of cheesecloth.
Using a sharp knife, halve the white part of the leek lengthwise and rinse
well under cold running water to rid the leek of any sand. Slice thinly
crosswise and set aside.
In a large soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and add the bacon.
Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is very soft
and has rendered most of its fat. Add the chopped leeks and cook until
wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the reserved
bouquet garni, chicken stock, potatoes, salt and white pepper, and bring to
a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, or until the
potatoes are falling apart and the soup is very flavorful.
Remove the bouquet garni and, working in batches, puree the soup in a
food processor or blender. (Alternately, if you own an immersion blender,
puree the soup directly in the pot.) Stir in the creme fraiche and adjust the
seasoning, if necessary.
Serve immediately, with some of the snipped chives sprinkled over the top
of each bowl of soup.
May - June 2009 | TASTE 25
 wine story
The Wine
Dinner Dilemma
By Katrina Valkenburg
What comes first, the chicken or the egg? This is one
of life’s eternal mysteries. However, this is a wine
column and therefore the question to be asked is –
What comes first, the food or the wine?
If you were preparing a dinner at home, the answer would most
likely be the food. You would decide on a menu and then match
appropriate wines based on weight and texture. Similarly, when
you go to a restaurant, most people would scan the menu,
decide on what they shall order for the first and second course,
and then select the wines.
But what happens when you are hosting a wine dinner? In
most cases, the chef will be sent samples of the wines to be
served in advance so that, having tasting them, can design a
complementary menu. Often the chef will incorporate a couple
of the wines into the courses to be served, either by way of a
marinade for the protein or vegetables or as a major ingredient
in the dish, such as a red wine jelly.
Similarly, if you belonged to the rarefied world of wine collectors
who cellar their hallowed investment until they believe the wines
have come of age, you would always choose the wine before
working out a menu.
26 TASTE | May - June 2009
However, many times in Bali I have
discovered that this is not necessarily the
case. Perhaps as a result of unbelievably
high taxes and tariffs, the cost of the wine
precludes the distributor or producer
sending samples to the chef. Instead, a
list of the wines with tasting notes attached
may be sent out, for which the chef will
then be expected to design an appropriate
menu, resulting in a very mixed bag of
complementary taste sensations.
Designing a menu this way is an
extraordinarily difficult thing to do. Firstly,
marketing people who want to impress (or
confuse) the potential customer write the
tasting notes, often using a string of florid
adjectives thrown together that may or
may not be particularly helpful. Secondly,
those same marketing people may not be
well versed in the product – wine – as often
they will have come from marketing other
products, from rubber gloves to hairspray.
Thirdly, it is rare (by no means impossible)
to find a Chef who is au fait with the gamut
of the wines available globally, let alone
particular vintages, their aging potential
and intrinsic qualities. A chef’s focus is
primarily on the food and they generally
leave the selection of wine to the Sommelier
or restaurant patron.
However, if the chef has been sent samples in
VON SIEBENTHAL CARABANTES SYRAH
violets, red berries, bluberries, spice, herbs, mint
sweet, slight toasty oak, blueberry, herbs, red
© image courtesy of the laguna resort & spa
advance, chances are that he/she will create a
sumptuous menu echoing the multitude of
flavours and aromas apparent in the wines.
Well known wine aficionado and GM of
Bulgari Hotel and Resort, Robert Lagerway,
responded when we asked the question
“What comes first, the food or the wine?”
with, “Wines are important when creating a
Food and Wine Experience and often serve as
a base for the Culinary Creation. By the same
token it is understood that especially here in
Indonesia, products are not always available
well in advance, so one has to rely on one’s
knowledge and experience in creating the
experience.  Often we try to match food and
wine with such passion that we forget that it
is acceptable and fun to have combinations
that push the envelope a bit and that cross
new boundaries”.
Chef Andrew Skinner had even more to say:
“…..we aim only to do the most amazing
wines for our soirees at the Bulgari. But if we
were to ask for a bottle of each of the wines
to be served, which could be as many as five
varietals, often the cost of each bottle will be
hundreds of dollars.”
“If the wines are very special and the attendees
very low - the on cost is still very significant
as a hidden cost in the menu. Then the menu
appears very expensive and an establishment
may be seen as gouging the guest for his
berries, white pepper
from Indowine
CHEESE
crème brule of goat cheese with beetroot
garlic grissini
signature dish by Bastian Mantey
special experience. If you imagine 5 x $200
for a dinner for 20, then you’re already at $50
per person before you start on the price of
the menu.”
“Most guests in Bali expect to be blown away
on both fronts. Hence a contradiction, as
the chef ultimately strives also to deliver a
Culinary WOW, while the Vintner wants the
attention drawn to his wine.”
When we asked Chef Oscar Perez from the
newly opened St Regis the same question,
his response was immediate; “For me it
should merge/a perfect pairing which makes
a memorable experience. That’s the effect I
am searching for. Other people’s opinion is
what defines them as a chef/individual. Every
chef/individual is different and it is always
challenging to make everyone happy due to
different tastes. And if everyone thinks the
same, then life would be boring and there’d
be nothing to talk about”.
So, in wrapping up this diatribe, I give the last
words to Chef Andrew Skinner “Finally, even
with a bottle of wine in hand, the marriage
of food & wine is so subjective that for some
the marriage may be perfect, while for others
it just does not seem to CLICK................
funny, a bit like real life ..........”
Katrina is a wine educator and consultant.
Contact: katrina@mac.com
May - June 2009 | TASTE 27

Arak with
Sex Appeal
Shunning the perception of cheap cocktails served in jam jars and dodgy
welcome drinks with fruit sticking out of them, Chandi restaurant has
committed to raising the bar when it comes to arak.
Chandi’s signature Sangriatiki
Ginger mojito with
ginger infused arak
Chandi’s vanilla arak
on the rocks
Chef Agung, trained in New York, together
with his wife and Creative Director Kirsten,
have developed a concept aimed at creating
revitalising Indonesian cuisine. So when
it came to setting up the bar, Kirsten set
herself the challenge of sourcing high
quality arak and creating fabulous infusions
and cocktails.
“When I first suggested it to our bartender,
Komang Bull, he thought I was joking.
The more I considered it, the more it made
sense to serve a local favourite in a modern
Indonesian restaurant,” she explains.
Vanilla cream and
Chandi’s own vanilla-infused arak
All berry daiquiri
Komang slowly came around and the two
set out to visit local producers, of which
there are not many legitimate ones, to find
the best supplier they could. Much of it
was a matter of tasting it, getting to know
the suppliers, talking to local retailers who
stock it and basing their choice on those
factors.
Arak is a specialty in Bali. The cheaper
version tuak is a raw product made from
fermenting the sap of the coconut tree
and is served in many local warungs and
used for ceremonies. After filtering it and
Barman Komang Bull
distilling the tuak, arak is produced. The
distilled alcohol generally has an alcohol
content of around 40%.
The distilled arak is used both as a base
alcohol for cocktails including daiquiris,
creamy cocktails and a sangria mix that is
full of wonderful local fruit and as shots or
shorts using the alcohol infused with local
flavours such as ginger and vanilla.
“We are still experimenting with other
infusions, some have worked and others
haven’t. Our customers love it. The
cocktails are delicious, well made and
despite the reputation, people don’t have
any worse hangovers than with other
alcohol,” says Kirsten.
Changing my perceptions wasn’t as difficult
as I first thought. Hving a tasting with wine
columnist Katrina Valkenberg, we agreed that
most of the cocktails were a great success.
Saturday nights are party nights at Chandi,
usually with proceeds going to benefit one
of their pet charities and people pour in.
The price is a factor in convincing people to
buy the arak cocktails, but once tried most
people are converted. Deciding to delve
into some more in-depth research, I threw
myself into the fray one Saturday night
and I can say emphatically, there is nothing
wrong with their ginger mojitos, in fact,
they are bloody good!
Chandi Restaurant
Jl Laksmana no 72
Tel: 0361 731060
May - June 2009 | TASTE 29
 techniques
The (im)Perfect
Pavlova
The pavlova is considered the national
dessert of Australia, although legend has
it that it was a New Zealander who first
created the frothy meringue mixture to
celebrate the Russian ballerina.
Such is the tricky nature of creating the
perfect pavlova that in fact books are
devoted to it, discussions abound. A well-
known bookshop cum cafè that celebrates
all things cooking, Books For Cooks located
in London’s Notting Hill, devotes space in
each of their annual collection of recipes to
discuss the ins and outs of pavlova making.
Some tips from the experts:
Books For Cooks tips:
There is one factor in pavlova making it
is difficult to control, namely the oven.
It is important to understand the basic
principle. What you want is a short blast
to crisp the outside and then a long period
of low heat to set the inside (but not dry it
out like meringue).
30 TASTE | May - June 2009
The sugar needs to be added slowly and
dissolved before adding more or little sugar
droplets will form on the outside.
Meringue hates any kind of grease.
The humidity of the tropics is another area
of difficulty. The pavlova here should be
cooled in the oven where it is dry. If you
plan to keep it, Ben, head chef at kudeta,
suggests you place it in a cool room (not
refrigerated) in a container with silicon
beads to absorb any liquid. It will not keep
more than 1 or 2 days maximum.
Classic Pavlovas.
The traditional pavlova is filled with whipped
cream and toipped with strawberries and
passion fruit. There are however so many
variations. A firm favourite is marinated
strawberries, raspberries and crushed
hazelnuts. Kiwi Fruit, chocolate, nuts,
almost anything can be adapted to the basic
recipe.
Stephanie Alexander’s pavlova:
6 egg whites (room temperature)
pinch of salt
2cups/360 g. caster sugar
2tsp cornflour
1 tsp vinegar
(1 cup heavy cream and 15 passion fruit if
using)
Heat the oven to 180C grease a baking tray and
line with paper. Draw a circle on the paper.
Put the egg whites and a pinch of salt into a
clean bowl and whisk until stiff. Start adding
the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, whisking well after
each addition. Continue until whites are stiff
and glossy and sugar is completely dissolved.
Last of all whisk in the cornflour and vinegar.
Shape the meringue within the circle as you
like (round and flat at the top or with raised
sides like a pie).
Bake for 5 minutes and then reduce the heat
to 130C and cook for one hour and fifteen
minutes. Cool completely and fill with
whipped cream and fruit of your choice.
 spa cuisine Coconut Pad Thai with spicy
almond sauce

Bliss at
Brandon Huisman is known in the community as an innovative chef and of zucchini to mimic the pasta in lasagna
a down to earth guy. It took him over a year however, to finally get down to are just two of the surprisingly versatile
tackling a new menu for the resort’s spa, Bliss. When he finally got serious, he vegetable substitutes and the addition of
hearts of palm into a traditional ceviche
spent six months researching various books and internet sites on raw, vegan
adds an exotic twist.
and healthy food before finally coming up with his new menu. Each dish
has been weighed and meticulously broken down to give exact nutritional
Echoes of Brandon’s ‘cooking roots’ are
information and kilojoule counts. In his own words, “It was one of those
jobs I kept putting off but once I got down to it, I found it fascinating and
evident in the offerings, and although the
Tamales on the Bliss Menu are unlikely to
Organic Quinoa salad
ultimately really satisfying,” Spiced rare tuna
be found in the eating houses of Houston
INGREDIENTS: 1 T Toasted sliced almonds
there remains a touch of the Tex-Mex to
Guests at the Bliss Spa at the Bale, Nusa 1.5 tbsp Curry vinaigrette Recipe 1.5 T Papaya Fine Dice
Polenta tamales on sweet corn and pay homage to his first cooking experiences
Dua are in for more than just a wonderful mushroom ragout attached 1 tsp Lime juice
while the flavour of the Mediterranean
spa experience; resident executive chef 3 T Cooked organic quinoa Black pepper/Sea Salt
in dishes like the Golden Gazpacho and
Brandon Huisman has recently spent some 1/4 cup Thin slice nashi pear
the tender poached chicken served with
quality time creating a new spa menu that 1/3 cup Baby spinach METHOD:
couscous are influenced by his European
encompasses nutrition and taste in one 1/3 cup Frisee lettuce 1. Mix above ingredients together
training and travels.
beautifully balanced offering. 1/3 cup Wild Rocket 2. Stack nicely on plate, garnish with edible
1 tsp sliced chive flowers
Brandon however has found his home here
Brandon drew on many personal culinary
in Bali and relishes the opportunities he has
experiences to create a menu he felt would
found working in a forward-thinking and
satisfy a nutritional need as well as one that
would not just appeal to the palate but
dynamic company that is constantly looking,
not just to meet the needs of their guests, but
Curry Vinaigrette for
Quinoa salad
tantalize it as well.
to lead the way in offering inspiring lifestyle
choices for leisure and renewal.
Adapting recipes to suit the freshest local
produce and drawing on his adaptive skills INGREDIENTS: 1.5 tsp Madras curry powder
In order to enhance the residential
as an alchemical chef he is now happy with 1 T White wine vinegar Salt/pepper to taste
experience, the introduction of a vitality
the ability of both his staff and the quality of .5 tsp Dry mustard
Eggplant rolls stuffed with tofu, Exotic fruits and chopped nuts packed and highly nutritious menu is
the produce, to launch his new menu. 2 T Lime juice METHOD:
ricotta and basil with banana tofu ice cream essential. The Bliss Spa menu is only one of
.5 T minced shallot Add all ingredients in blender except oil,
Brandon’s offerings, from the main kitchen
Brandon brings together a compliment of .5 T Minced garlic slowly add oil while blending
a comprehensive menu, drawing from
raw and cooked foods utilizing vegetables, 3 T grapeseed oil
the same principals of as much fresh local
seafood, chicken and grains to give guests an
produce as possible, is available along with a
opportunity to try something new within
selective wine list featuring some of the best
the parameters of the familiar.
imported wines in the world. A delicious
desert selection is also on hand to tempt the
For example the Rice Paper Ravioli that is
less disciplined. It is all about the choices
served with a pumpkin and saffron broth has a
we make, and Brandon’s various menus at
texture that is instantly palatable with a heady
The Bale offer plenty from the healthy to
mixture of flavors that stimulate the taste
the indulgent.
buds with a mix of curiosity and delight.

The Bliss Menu at the Bale is available at

Using young coconut to great effect as
Bliss Spa, The Bale, Nusa Dua
noodles in a Pad Thai and layering thin slices

32 TASTE | May - June 2009

Nasi Hu’uduk
Playing with local favourites is a personal quest of Philip Mimbimi,
Nutmegs’ talented American chef so not surprisingly he chose to serve
BCP members a family style lunch drawing on traditional styles.

From spring rolls to the spicy rice cooked in coconut milk from which this
style of nasi campur (mixed rice) derives its name a string of innovative
and creative dishes were served that harked back to traditional Indonesian
dishes and spiced with familiar flavours.

Playing with the name of Hu’u was a nice twist that marked a memorable
day for the many members and guests in attendance on a hot February day.
(And no one ended up in the pool!)

Twists on Tapas
A Spanish resort in Bali with a French chef is bound to produce some twists
and Executive Chef, Christian Bealieu, did not fail to disappoint when his
turn to host BCP came around.

With a brilliantly presented tapas plate as first course, featuring some

innovative modern dishes individually labelled on the serving dish lead
into a meltingly wonderful meat course for mains and a refreshing, and
perfectly presented dessert finished off the meal perfectly and showed
that this chef has all the basics mastered and can turn his hand to almost
anything. The Sangria was a hit as well.
 BCP Membership 2009
NAME COMPANY
Simon Yap Asri Indonesia, PT
Dienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PT
Winyoto Asri Indonesia, PT
Josef Zopf Aerowisata Catering Service
David Smith Alam boga
Reina Triastuty Alam boga
Vynna Indra Alam boga
Vera Lukito Anantara
Olaf Aistleitner Arena Sport Café
Ni Wayan Santo Asih Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Adrianto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Haryanto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta
Ketut Sukamara Ayodya Resort
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya Resort
Ayung Ko Jung Lien Bali Bakery
Ivan Prakarsa Bali Bakery
Sutedjo Bali Bakery
Mario Caramella Bali Hyatt
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery
Michael Heriyono Buana Agung Lestari
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari
Andrew Skinner Bulgari
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali
I Made Darsana Canggu Club
Dennis Langlois Carrefour
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods
Joanes Cantius Tjoeng Delta Satria Dewata, PT
Kib Roby Dharma teas
Betty Subekty Dineta Jaya
Inneke Hoo Dineta Jaya
Eka Saputra Dineta Jaya
Made Sebastian Suanda Discovery Kartika Plaza
Djoko Sebastian Discovery Kartika Plaza
Hermann Feigl Discovery Kartika Plaza
AA Rai Gunawan Discovery Kartika Plaza
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza
Terry Deweer DP Kitchen
Johan Meyers DP Kitchen
Agung Pradnya Dewa Dwijaya
Ayu Dwijaya
Sarawoot Lerdmaleewong Ecolab
Herlina Manurung Ecolab
Eko Putranto Ecolab
Wayan Sumerta ex Discovery
Klaus Kalweit Four Seasons Resort
Nyoman Maleachi Four Seasons Resort
I Nyoman Warta Four Seasons Resort
I Wayan Gelgel Four Seasons Resort
Swee Leong (Bobby) Wong Four Seasons Resort
Made Widana Four Seasons Resort
I Gusti Ketut Oka Four Seasons Resort
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel
Ida Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali,PT
David Tan
Anik Purwati
Leony Rossalia Hartono
Hocatsu Bali,PT
Hocatsu Bali,PT
Holidai Inn
Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbima Hu’u Bali
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali
Helmut Walter Schafer Illy Coffee
Pramudya Bevan Illy Coffee
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali
Ayu Catur Wati Indoguna Bali
John Reese Intercontinental
Rene Oskam Intercontinental
Niniek TS Inti Kulit
Edward Kwon Jumeirah Burj Al Arab
Gian Luigi Gerosa Jumeirah Burj Al Arab
Felix Schmid Jumeirah Burj Al Arab
Dale Schnell Jumeirah Burj Al Arab
Laurent Varachaud Jumeirah Burj Al Arab
I Ketut Sudana Kayu Manis Nusa Dua
Wayan Merta Astawa Kayu Manis Nusa Dua
36 TASTE | May - June 2009
Sponsorship
NAME COMPANY
I Made Budartha Kayu Manis Nusa Dua
Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics
I Gusti Nyoman Jaya Kori Restaurant
Ralf Schmidt Kori Restaurant
Salon Culinaire 2009
Komang Gede Subawa Kori Restaurant
Roland Zauner Kupu Barong
Markus Reichl Legian Beach Hotel
Henny Santoso Lotus Distribution
Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution
Patrick Marty Ma Joly
Torsten Schubert Maldives
Jeff Matthews Mandara Spa Contract Contract
Yannis van Heckerer Mannekepis Bistro Sponsorship Name Sponsorship Name
Jayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT Status Status
Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Christian Beaulieu Melia Bali
Alejandro Jimenez Real Melia Bali SUKANDA DJAYA Gold NESTLE INDOFOOD Gold
Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Agustien Kantiana MIC
Christopher J Salans Mozaic SARANA KULINA Gold TULIP CHOC Gold
Robert Otillie Nemo Wetsuit
Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Made Sumariana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Gusti Susrama Mekel Nikko Bali Resort & Spa NIRWANA LESTARI 1 Gold PANDURASA Gold
I Made Sudana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Sang Ketut Sumi Adnyana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Katarina Sari Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Juergen Domani Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
FONTERA Gold NAYATI Gold
Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa SOEJASCH BALI Gold HAGEEN DASZ Silver
I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Jeremy Cooper Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
John Taylor Padma Bali
CLASSIC FINE FOOD Gold ROYAL SULTAN AGUNG Bronze
Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali
Ketut Pong Atmajaya Padma Bali
Ian Roberts Pamerindo ELOMA Gold SANYO Bronze
Kadek Widiantara Papa’s Café
Chung Chung Papaya Fresh Gallery
Jahn Roger Pepito Café
Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas MFK Gold TOZA Bronze
Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas
Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas
Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor UNILEVER Gold MUNIK Bronze
Ing Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CV
Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Enny Kudung Soejasch MLA Gold GREAT UNIFORM Bronze
Tutik Yantini Soejasch
Mr Robert Jansen Soejasch
Oscar Perez St Regis Bali PRAMBANAN KENCANA Gold DELICATESA Bronze
Edi Sidarta St Regis Bali
Rusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PT
I Gusti Ngurah Arya Wibawa Sukanda Djaya, PT
I Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PT INDOGUNA Gold J&J SEAFOOD Bronze
Sally Suli Harta, UD
Made Adi Wibawa Suli Harta, UD
Helmin Dequelyu Suli Harta, UD
I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Nigel Ames The Beach House
Jacky Ames The Beach House
I Made Putra The Laguna
I Made Linggi
Nyoman Wijana
Ridwan
The Laguna
The Laguna
The Laguna
Next BCP Lunch
Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna Venue : Hotel Padma Bali
Andreas Krampl The Ritz-Carlton Address : Jl. Padma 1 Legian, Bali
Dean Keddel The Ritz-Carlton
Ron Pietruszka The Ritz-Carlton Osaka Day/date : Saturday, 28 June 2009
I Made Lugra The Samaya Time : 12.30
Michael Shaheen The Samaya
Ray Clark The Samaya
I Wayan Semudra The Samaya
Markus Krickelberg The Westin
Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Puri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food Solutions
Kristini Sutirta Unilever Food Solutions
Andi Ayu Purnama Unilever Food Solutions
Claire Quinn Villa Coco
Kevin Sinclair Watergarden Hotel
Made Witha Witha Bakery
 chefs day-out

David & Dimpy

Proving he is more than a pretty face, and a talented chef with scratch, timing the various meats and
finishing the roast vegetable selection (just
impressive experience, Alam Boga’s, David Smith, stepped in like Mum’s!) as well as manning the carvery
to help fellow BCP Members, Nigel and Jackie Ames as they himself at night.

prepared for the opening of their new Scallywags Restaurant
and Hotel in Gili Trawangan.
With less than a week before opening,
scheduled for March 26, the owners found
themselves without an executive chef and
much work to be done to get their new
kitchen ready.
“I came in to help them set up their systems,
get their ordering and budgeting on line
and introduced a carvery to their existing
menu,” says David.
Working with Scallywags head cook, Dimpy,
a kitchen professional, David offered to help
with the installation of the new equipment
as well as going through some basic kitchen
skills with the chefs.
Formerly a chef himself, with experience
at The Regent in Sydney and time spent
working under the legendary chef, Serge
Dansereau at Sydney’s famous Bather’s
Pavilion, before coming to Indonesia and
joining the Papa’s group, David brought
considerable experience to the job.
“Hey”, he said, “these guys are mates, and
good customers. I just came to lend a hand,”
he said.
The new restaurant is beside the former one,
which is still operating, so in effect the size
of the restaurant is now doubled. The couple
and their partners Made and Anna Ramlie,
who also own Echo Beach in Canggu,
already feature a seafood and meat barbecue
at night, in addition to a large menu that
features mains, burgers, salads and tapas.
“There was a quiet area at one end of the
new restaurant so I introduced a carvery
there to attract guests to the other end of the
property. As Villa Ombak is next door and
The Beach House on the other side, there is
a lot of traffic here and the carvery is another
reason for customers to stop,” he says.
It worked a treat and had David in the
kitchen by day, teaching the staff how to
make a delicious home-style gravy from
Of course, it isn’t all work in Gili Trawangan
and David found time to surf, swim and
check out the night life as well.
Other friends also came to help, with Marco
de Leonardis (Dr Rocket) taking his turn in
the kitchen to show the staff how to make
hand formed pasta, while Taste consultant
Sarah Dougherty took some holiday time
out to introduce new desserts.
During one of the island’s busiest periods,
the Nyepi holiday for Bali, the new ten
room resort and the bar and restaurant
operated at capacity and friends and
strangers alike kept the party atmosphere in
full swing. There is little doubt that David
won’t be quitting his day job to relocate to
Gili T, but there are plenty of worse places
to hang your chefs hat.
www. scally wags resort .com
Tel: (0370) 645301 (reception)
Fax: (0361) 631945
South Beach - Gili Trawangan, Lombok

38 TASTE | May - June 2009