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Fitting How To..

Fit ting 6x9 x9 Speakers to the Rear Quarters (3dr)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Inroduction/Summary: This How To will explain how to fit 6 x 9 speakers into the rear quarters of a 3 door Astra G/MK4 in place of the standard 17cm speakers. I would estimate the entire job taking about 3 hours. The reasons for me choosing to fit these speakers in this way are: I had the speakers already, and didnt want to purchase new ones. I wanted a permanent solution to the upgrade of rear speakers. I regularly use all of my boot space so I cannot afford the space for a subwoofer. Therefore I needed more mid bass from my rear speakers than components could offer. Also, did not want the hassle of removing an MDF rear parcel shelf every time I loaded up the car.

There are two things that you need to know before reading any further: 1. For those interested in a temporary solution (i.e. no permanent alterations to your vehicle) please fit youre 6 x 9s to a stealth shelf or similar. 2. You WILL need to cut part of the car away to fit these speakers, so unless you are confident enough to do this, please do not continue. Now thats all cleared up on with the how-to! Parts and Tools Needed: Pair of 6 x 9 speakers Cutting template suitable for your speakers (usually come with your speakers, but I will instruct upon how to make your own) Angle grinder / dremel (or similar) cutting tool Cross headed screwdriver Torx head screwdrivers Self tapping screws Drill and metal drill bit just smaller than your self tapping screws Large dust sheet to cover interior with Speaker adaptor leads (Autoleads part number: PC2-805 3.99)

Firstly, remove the rear seats and quarter panels as described in the How To on AstraSport:

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Making a template template: te: If you have cutting templates with your speakers please go straight to Step1 (below). If you dont try the manufacturers website or your local car audio shop. If you need to make your own this is how I made mine: 1. Firstly, place your speaker face down on cloth. Then identify the area that will need to be removed to fit it. It is difficult to explain see photo (below).

2. Next, take a sheet of A4 paper and hold it over the bottom of the speaker magnet. Using your finger, rub around the edge of the magnet to make a circle (or the shape of your magnet). Cut out this shape. Move the paper down over the magnet, so that the magnet is coming through the paper towards you. 3. Move the paper down little by little, trimming it as necessary until your speaker fits into it as if you were going to mount it on the paper. You should be left with a piece of paper that has an ellipse cut into it. 4. Place this over another A4 sheet, and trace the shape onto the second sheet. 5. Cut out the shape and voila - you have the template for your speakers. If possible, you can use the grill that fits over your speaker, and rub the paper into the shape on the speaker side of the grill, then cut around the shape. You can only do this if you can see that the grill has the same shape as the rear mounting of the speaker.

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Step One: After removing the rear seats and door cards you should have something looking like this: Remove the existing speaker by undoing the four torx screws. Unplug the wiring loom from the rear of the speaker, by depressing the small catch on the side of the plug. Using a tape measure, ensure that the depth of your new 6x9 is not greater then the distance between the rear quarter inner chassis and outer skin. There is a lot of room, so I would expect no problems. Trim the sound proofing from around the existing speaker cutout to make room for you to cut for and fit the new speaker. Line up your template with the forward (facing front of the car) edge of the 17cm hole, and secure it with blu-tack as shown below. I placed it in this way this because I could feel there was something on the inside of the forward side of the existing speaker cutout that I did not want to cut through. Step Two: Trace around the template with a black pen. Then remove the template. Now you will need to cut around the pen mark. You can use a dremel cutting tool, but it is important to remember that real men use an angle grinder! WARNINGS: Cover up the surrounding area with the cloth to avoid spark damage. Make sure all seat belts; wires and any other possible obstructions are safely tucked away. Dampen the soundproofing to avoid it burning. Keep a steady hand and check your progress frequently. Take regular breaks tiredness means lack of concentration and you are cutting less then 15cm from the outside skin of the car!
Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

After cutting you should have something looking a little like this photo right: Step Three: You may need an extra pair of hands to hold the speaker for this and the next step. Offer up the speaker to the hole. I needed to make a few alterations to my hole (ooh-err!) to get the speaker to sit in flush. Make sure to inspect around the entire edge of the speaker to make sure the speaker is sitting flat against the rear quarter. When you are happy, keep the speaker in place and mark the holes for the screws using a black pen, and then put the speaker to one side. Step Four: Drill the holes for the speaker screws. Using a manual screwdriver, carefully thread the holes with the screws (do this by screwing the self-tapping screw in, and then out again). This will help when fitting the screwing the speaker in, especially if you have to hold the speaker with your free hand. Step Five: Plug your Autoleads adaptor onto the existing wiring in the car, and then slip on the other ends to your new 6x9 speaker. You can cut the wires and crimp on connectors instead, but I feel that for not much more money it is worthwhile using the adaptors.

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

Step 6: Fit the speaker onto the rear quarter using the screws and holes you drilled earlier. Switch on the head unit and check that the speaker works. When you are happy, re-fit the door card, and make sure that it fits over the top of your new 6x9. I had no problem, even with the grill on the speaker.

Smile , make a cup of tea, and then repeat all above steps to fit the speaker to the other side. When finished, refit the rear seats and enjoy the new higher quality sounds.

Thanks to DanSport16v for the How To

How To.. Replace the Aerial Base (MK4)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed. No.20 Torx screwdriver 17mm Open ended spanner Washing-up liquid A small flat bladed screwdriver There are many different bases fitted to Astra G's. - To get the correct one, you'll have to quote your VIN number at your Vauxhall dealers parts department. This How to was done on a 3-door hatchback - The panels will be different on a 5-door, but it will be the same principle.

If your aerial base looks like this -->, -its in need of changing before water leaks onto your headlining. Basically all that needs doing is to drop the rear of the headlining and remove the old base and refit a new one.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Drop the headlining. Step 1 You need to remove all the trim at each side of the headlining up to the drivers door shut, after first removing your parcel shelf. Undo the three Torx screws (marked ) in the panel in the boot. You don't need to remove the panel, just pull it off the clips so it hangs clear.

Step 2 You'll then need to remove the rear grab handle. Using a flat bladed screwdriver remove both retaining clips these just slide out. Then the handle will come out leaving the base/light fitting in place.

Step 3 Carefully pull the light out and let it hang on the wires.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 4 To be on the safe side I unclipped the B-pillar cover. This just pulls off the clips.

Step 5 The main trim should now be free to unclip and remove. Remember this needs doing for BOTH side of the car.

When all the trim is out, you can carefully get behind the rubber boot seal and get to the edge of the headlining. It's held up with 3 Velcro pads. Pull it down carefully (you don't want to crease it), you should see the base of the aerial.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Removing the Aerial Base Step 1 It's not that clear from the previous photo, but there are three connections to be undone - Radio antenna lead, amplifier lead and water pipe. Remove the foam insulation from around the Radio antenna, then unscrew and pull the connector apart. Then unclip the washer connection. Step 2 The water pipe does just pull out, but it's a long male pipe so can be a bit fiddly. Water pressure stops the water leaking once the pipes removed. Step 3 Using a 17mm open ended spanner (a socket can't get in) undo the retaining nut. Only takes a small turn to get it started and then it's possible to undo it with your fingers Step 4 Once the nut is removed then you'll be able to carefully lift the old base from the car. Preparing the New New Base Step 1 You'll need to remove the washer jet from the old base and fir it into the new. To remove it from the old unit a small screwdriver and a push from the bottom of the jet will loosen it. It's a tight fit!

Step 2 Then just push the jet into the new unit, making sure the groove is lined up with the tenon on the jet. Washing up liquid may be needed to help it slip in. Your new base is now ready to be fitted. Thanks to Keif for the How To

Fitting is basically the reverse of the above, you shouldn't have to tighten the aerial nut up much as it just needs to grab the underside of the roof. Plus you wont need to adjust the jet. Fitting the water pipe back is a pain and a good dollop of washing up liquid will be needed. I wrapped insulation tape around the aerial connection once Id screwed it back up as I destroyed the foam on removal. The only thing to watch re-fitting the interior panels is lining the seatbelt adjuster up; if you misaligned the clip on the rear of the panel you'll break it and have to replace the whole panel.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

K-MAC Rear Anti Anti-Roll Bar (MK4) How To.. Fit a K


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.

The Mk4 Astra is not fitted with a rear AntiAnti-Roll Bar (ARB) as standard, so fitting one will handling. tighten up the back end and greatly improve han dling.

Step 1 First of all you will need to get the car up on a 4 poster ramp as the anti roll bar needs to be fitted with the car level, as if it was on the road. Once up in the air you need to fit the first bracket that goes on the pivot point of the rear suspension. Undo the nut (circled red) so you can fit the bracket - dont remove the bolt! Once the bracket is fitted, refit and tighten the nut to following torque Stage 1 190nm or 66lbf ft Stage 2 angle tighten 60 Stage 3 angle tighten 15 Before After

Repeat for the other side

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Step 2 Fit the T-shaped nut (indicated in photo) to the hole in the bottom of the swinging arm. When you look at the nut, you need to insert it into the hole and turn it 90 degrees so the stepped bit is sitting down in through the hole.

Before T-shaped nut fitted

After (ready to accept bracket)

Step 3 Place the 2 bolts in the bracket with the head of the bolt on the top of the bracket, so the thread of the bolt is facing down. Now bolt the bracket up to the T-shaped nut thats in the hole of the bottom arm so that the bracket and 2 bolts are parallel with the bumper (As the roll bar will go through the middle of the bracket). Do the other side!

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Step 4 Now you need to bolt on the anti roll bar to the trailing arm brackets. Place the bolts with the square ends through the bracket so the thread is facing down. Then place the rubber bush around the roll bar and then put the second part of the bracket over the bush. Its best to put some copper grease on the bush before fitting the bar/bracket. When fitting the U-clamps, just do up the nuts hand tight, so it still allows for some final adjustment of the bar in the brackets.

Step 5 Next bolt the anti roll bar to the other brackets on the trailing arm. The roll bar is under a bit of tension so you might have to push and hold the roll bar up against the bracket to enable you to fit the U-clamp. Again, you need to place the rubber bush over the roll bar and put the clamp over the top of the bush. Use copper grease again. The bracket that you had already fitted to the car will have the bolts facing down so you can push the U-clamp over the threads and do the nuts up. Again, dont do them up tight so you have a bit (You dont get much) of movement so you can align it easier on the other side.

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

Step 6 Once youre 100% happy that everything is lined up and sitting centrally, go round the brackets and do up all the nuts on brackets so its all nice and tight.

Thats it. it You now have a K-MAC rear anti roll bar fitted to your car which looks like this:

Thanks to lee gsi for the How To

How To.. Dismantle & Reassemble the Ashtray ( Mk4)


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools required: Small Thin Screwdriver Medium size flat bladed screwdriver Step 1 Remove the ashtray from the centre console. If you can't do that please stop reading now and pay someone to do the next steps. The ashtray comes apart really easily as long as you follow the steps in order, do not get frustrated and force anything or it will break. Locate the gear which controls the speed of the ashtray as it flicks open. To remove the gear insert a small screwdriver in the hole near the catch and lever upwards, it comes out quite easily. If your ashtray is sticking whilst opening remove this gear and see how it performs without it. It will fly open very rapidly, but you can listen for any scraping etc as it opens, which indicates the problem lies elsewhere it the ashtray. Step 2 You now need to remove the catch which holds the ashtray shut. There is a central clip on it, I've inserted the thin screwdriver to highlight where it is, hold this up whilst allowing the ashtray to open, when fully open you can push the catch further upwards and then remove it.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

Step 3 Now you can remove the tray itself without bits flying off all over the car. Insert the medium screwdriver between the surround and the tray as in photo. You must keep the top of the tray closed, and you need to get the bottom to detach whilst the top stays in place, it's really easy Start on the cigar lighter side and separate the tray and surround from this side - there is a pivot point inside which you need to loosen off. When you've got that side loose do the same with the other but as it comes loose cover the spring with your finger - don't forget to keep the top in place, swing the bottom part out. The spring isn't that strong and won't hurt you. Step 4. Now you should have the ashtray loose at the bottom but still connected at the top, like this. To remove this, all you need to do is pull out one side and detach the peg which is located in the inner ashtray runner: again this is very easy. Once one side is loose the other will come off without any bother.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

Step 5 If you want you can remove the light shutter from the inner part of the outer frame. All this does is block light from the cigar lighter bulb until the ashtray opens when it allows light to flow down the ashtray light bar. I've highlighted this because sometimes it just falls out and at least you'll know where it goes back.

Step 6 To remove the inner ashtray from flap insert a screwdriver like in the photo - keep pressure on the flap whilst sliding the inner ashtray outwards. You need to get the tray to slide over the 2 clamps highlighted. It will then just slide off. A lot of troubles with ashtrays sticking can be traced to these 2 pieces - they must slide together very freely. Lubricate the sliding surfaces with Vaseline or similar and check operation when the 2 pieces are reassembled.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

Step 7 By now the ashtray should be almost fully dismantled. You can remove the inner tray from the inner ashtray if you want to clean it. It also helps if it's removed whilst assembling as the view is clearer and it can be reinserted when the ashtray is fully assembled. Parts 1. Catch 2. Speed gear 3. Light shutter 4. Spring 5. Inner tray 6. Flap 7. Inner Ashtray 8. Frame

8 7

Step 8 Now's the time to lubricate all the moving parts: the easier they move the better the ashtray will operate. To reassemble 1. First assemble the Inner Ashtray to the flap, it just slides in place. 2. Reattach the light shutter if removed. 3. Keep the inner ashtray in the fully up position and locate onto one of the pegs on the frame, pull the frame outward slightly to locate the second peg.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

4. The inner ashtray and flap are now swinging on the pegs. Keep the top edge firmly against top of the frame so the bottom sticks out. 5. Put the spring into place as shown in the photo. Swing the inner ashtray downwards whilst still keeping the top edge against the frame, and take the hooked end of the spring and swing it into the frame whilst you swing the inner ashtray down. Ideally get the hooked end of the spring to protrude through the square hole in the back of the frame, Spread the frame slightly in order to get the pivot points located, one at a time - best to do the spring end first but doesn't really matter.

6. Mount the catch, keeping slight pressure on it so it tries to follow the guide slot. Open and shut the ashtray and the catch should just self locate. 7. Press the speed gear back into place. If your ashtray is still very slow in opening and you don't think anything is catching you can dismantle the speed gear by pressing a really thin screwdriver between the housing and the gear plate Inside it will be full of heavy oil, try thinning it out with a little WD40 and see how easy the gear moves after. Be aware though that if you remove the oil completely and substitute even heavy oil like gearbox oil the tray will still flick open very fast. As yet I haven't found anything like VX used. Once you've taken the ashtray apart a few times, you'll wonder how it caused so many problems in the past. Don't force anything and have patience.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How To

How To.. Remove the Instrument Binnacle (MK4)


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed T20 Torx bit, Small flat blade Screwdriver or penknife Step 1 If fitted, extend and lower the adjustable steering column to give yourself more room to work Then using a small flatblade screwdriver or penknife carefully prise out the two D shaped covers to either side of the steering column shroud, and remove the 2 T20 Torx screws underneath

Step 2 Remove the other 2 T20 Torx screws in the roof of the binnacle shroud

Thanks to adamduk for the How To

Step 3 Then remove the shroud (you will have to squeeze it downwards a bit). Make sure you lift the bottom part up over the column first.

Step 4 Remove the 2 T20 Torx Screws in the bottom corner on each side of the instrument binnacle...

Step 5 Unlatch the binnacle by moving the yellow lever, at the top, to the left. You need to lift it slightly before you move it across

Thanks to adamduk for the How To

Step 6 Lift the binnacle off the mounting, and manoeuvre it out of the dash. It will only come out one way so you need to Twist it backwards, so its almost flat Move the RHS into the dash Pull the LHS towards you Rotate and remove the binnacle through the gap in the steering wheel.

Now you can get at the bulbs in the back, if you need to replace blown ones, or fit LEDS Only twist them to turn - remove turning anticlockwise, and replace turning clockwise Refit the instruments, lock with the yellow lever, and check all the bulbs light up.

Once youre happy that all is OK, refitting is the reverse of removal

Thanks to adamduk for the How To

Bonnet How To.. Fit B onnet Lifters


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 Check all the parts are included in the package, and then screw the sockets to the end of the struts. Step 2 Note: Note one lifter is not strong enough to support the bonnet on its own, so you must keep the original stay in place until both sides are completed Undo the top (front) bolt on the bonnet hinge

and fit the top mounting to the bonnet on the MK3, the mount simply replaces the original bolt (below), whereas on the MK4 youll need to use the supplied bracket (as shown right), and then replace the bolt.

Thanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How To

Step 3 MK3s - remove the wing bolt, immediately before the hole in the wing (working back from the headlights). MK4s - there is no need to remove any bolt from the wing as the lower mounting uses the existing hole.

Step 4 Fit the lower mount to the wing MK3s Simply screw the new mounting into the wing bolt hole, remembering to use the supplied washer to spread the load (photo right)

MK4s - Fix the mounting to the hole in the front wing and tighten up the nut from underneath. As the hole is quite large it is wise to add some support to the mounting with some cut-down repair washers, top and bottom as shown left. These can be painted to hide them.

Thanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How To

Step 5 Push the struts onto the mountings, with the thicker part towards the top this way they will self lubricate and help to stop the seals from drying out. Its also a god idea to put a small amount of grease in the socket before fitting.

Step 6 Fit the retaining clips to each joint they slide in through the small hole in the socket and then clip into the groove. Once both sides are done, carefully lower the bonnet and check the clearance to ensure that they are not catching anywhere.

Thanks to Nrj and Ffoeg for the How To

How To.. Modify the Bonnet Pull on the Astra Mk4. (for Aftermarket Grills)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do this Mod? Fitting an aftermarket grill will sometimes leave the bonnet tab sticking proud of the grill when closed. This easy mod will move the tab backwards just enough so that it becomes unnoticeable when shut, yet still enables the bonnet to be opened easily. Step 1 Open the bonnet and remove the pull tab, by gently easing off the spring washer with a small screwdriver. Carefully cut off the plastic spring so the tab resembles that shown in the photo. If fitting an Irmscher Grill, it helps the alignment of the tab if the left hand side wing is removed to prevent fouling of the slats on the grill, again as shown in the photo Step 2 Now you can see the hole that the tab was removed from on the bracket (on the right). Drill a new hole, the same size (approx 4mm diameter), in line with original hole approx 10-12mm towards the rear of the catch shown on the left in the photo. On the other side of the bracket there are 2 plastic dimples that need to be made flush by cutting them off with a sharp Stanley knife or rubbed down with sandpaper Now you can reassemble the tab to the bracket using the new hole. Job Done!!
Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

The bonnet will now look similar to this when closed.

And this when released.

Thanks to Oddjob & lee gsi for the How To

Boos st Gauge How To.. Fit a Boo


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 Loosen the highlighted jubilee clips (7mm spanner or socket) and remove the inlet pipe to the left of the engine bay. There should be enough slack in the wires, so there is no need to disconnect the AFM

Step 2 You will see my setup and the arrow indicates the boost pressure pipe to the gauge. I fed mine from inside the car, through the spare grommet, which is situated just above the accelerator pedal this is accessible from under the dash, by removing the cover panel above the footwell (undo the 2 turn clips).

Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

Step 3 This shows the T piece layout. Note the pressure crimps on the weaker points of the installation. The pipe to the gauge is 4mm internal bore. Note the black pipe running down behind the engine. This is the one that started off connected to the small right angle tube.

Thanks to Lord Nikon for the How To

How To.. To change the F17/F18 gearbox oil on the Astra Mk4
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools required: 11mm socket and ratchet, 13mm ring spanner, 19mm open ended spanner. Torque wrench. Loctite thread lock or similar. Container to catch oil. Stanley knife or similar (optional) New sump plate gasket, No.90345227 on F17, No.90523143 on F18 Hylomar gasket paste or similar (optional) Gearbox oil 1.6L in F17 All photos show F17 gearbox, F18 is very similar so shouldn't cause a problem following this How-To. Step 1 To get the best results it's preferable to have the gearbox oil warm, take the car for a short run, 5-6 miles to get it nice and warm. I used ramps but axle stands can be used if preferred. Ramp up car or place on axle stands, allow at least 10mins for the exhaust to cool down as it will be red hot and could give you a very nasty burn. Step 2 This is the sump plate you need to remove to drain the gearbox oil. The F17 has 10 bolts holding it on, the F18 has 11 so it's easy to check which you have. The F17 is used on the 1.8 engines, both X18XE1 and Z18XE. The F18 was used on early 2.0 Astras. It's most important that you check the gasket you have is correct BEFORE you remove the sump plate, hold it against the plate to check it's correct.
To Thanks to Oddjob for the How T o

Step 3 Using the 11mm socket and ratchet, undo the bolts holding the sump plate: work in a cross wise fashion to relieve the pressure evenly. Have a suitable container under the gearbox to catch the old oil. The bolts have been fitted using thread lock, they will be hard to undo initially. However, if when you are undoing them, they tighten up do not force them - you will strip the thread out of the gearbox if you aren't careful. Best method is to retighten the bolt as this tends to cut the thread lock off the threads, the bolt should then come out easier, repeat the process if need be until the bolt feels looser. Step 4 Leave at least one of the bolts in place but loose. Tap the sump plate with a rubber hammer or piece of wood, when it starts to give off a hollow sound the plate is due to come off. Allow all the oil to drain and remove the sump plate, check inside the bottom of the sump plate for any undue residue, small pieces of metal etc. There should be very little on the plate if the box is in decent nick. Anything other than this and consider having the box checked. Clean the sump plate until it looks like this Step 5 You can see in the photos (below) that small pieces of the old gasket remain, it's vital you remove them from both the plate and the box; I use a sharp Stanley knife edge on for this. Check the differential gear for any missing teeth etc if you want.

To Thanks to Oddjob for the How T o

Step 6 After cleaning the sump plate and box surfaces apply some non setting gasket paste like Hylomar, this is optional but I prefer this method in case any of the surfaces are not totally flat. Fit the gasket and refit the plate back onto the box, putting thread lock on the bolts. Tighten the bolts in a cross wise method and tighten up to the required torque, see below. Looks like this, nice and clean Step 7 Lower the car. Park the car on level ground. Remove the reverse light switch, shown in photo (below), and also the gearbox oil level plug, also pictured but on my spare box for clarity. Reverse light switch is 19mm and level plug is 13mm but you need a proper ring spanner due to its location. Make sure you clean the area around the reverse light switch before removing it, I used some carb cleaner which did the job a treat.
Reverse Light Switch Oil Level Plug

To Thanks to Oddjob for the How T o

Step 8 Fill the gearbox through the reverse light switch - the F17 takes approx 1.6L. When the oil starts to drip through the level plug stop filling and wait for it to stop dripping. Refit and connect the reverse light switch and refit and tighten the level plug. Take the car for a drive and check for leaks, and then wait a couple of days and recheck the level again by removing the level plug. Torque Wrench settings Never over tighten bolts in alloy components you may strip the thread or crack the component Lower cover bolts F18 gear box F17 (alloy plate) F17 (steel plate) 40Nm /30lbf ft 12Nm /12lbf ft 30Nm /22lbf ft

To Thanks to Oddjob for the How T o

How To.. Remove the Centre Console


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required Head unit removal tools T20 torx bit/screw driver Small flat blade Screwdriver Step 1 Remove the head unit and cage from the console, using the appropriate removal tools for your particular type/make.

Note: Note: Removing the glove box enables you to get to the wiring at the rear of the head unit if required this is easy enough to do, by removing the six T20 screws: 3 along the top edge edge and 3 along the bottom, and lift lift out the glove box, taking care to disconnect the glove box light whilst doing so.

loodge Thanks to Sploodge for the How To

Next remove the lower storage compartment, photo right, which is retained by four flaps (2 top & 2 bottom). If youve got the 4 slot CD holder, its easier to leave that in place and remove it once the console is out, if needed.

Step 2 Open the ashtray and remove the plastic surround on the cigarette lighter it just levers off with a small screwdriver

Then pull down the metal pop up flap, and remove the 2 outermost torx screws now visible along the top edge of the ashtray

loodge Thanks to Sploodge for the How To

Then remove the two remaining torx screws to either side of the head unit slot (photo below right).

With all the screws out the centre console, all that remains is to release the clip right at the top centre of the console (it just pulls off) and the console can now be moved outwards by a couple of inches.

Step 3 Next step is to remove the heater control box from the console panel its held on by 4 spring clips (2 on the top face and 2 on the bottom). They are quite strong and youll need to lever them up with a small screwdriver, just enough to be able to push the control back with your thumb, and then wedge the clip open with a nail or similar. Its best to concentrate on one side first, and once thats released, do the other side. Once youve done all 4, the box will just push out. Note: Be careful not to put too much strain the heater box, as it can dislodge the control cables from the rear. Step 4 With the heater control box released, disconnect the loom from the MFD. Theres a mouse trap type locking clip on it, and all you need to do is push down on the red arrowed area, and move the hinged part down so it lies flat along the back of the MFD the connector can now be removed. And then slide off the connector from the rear of the hazard warning switch. The centre console can now be removed from the dashboard. If you are youll ll need to undo the two torx screws on the MFD and unclip are swapping over consoles, you the central air vents from the back of the console. Refitting is simply a reverse of the removal procedure.
loodge Thanks to Sploodge for the How To

How To.. Fit Cruise Control (MK4)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Can you fit Cruise Control? You need a drive-by-wire throttle control, if the accelerator pedal is connected to a big black box then you have fly-by-wire, if its a cable then its cable-actuated throttle and this guide is useless to you. Check 1 The ECU Before buying the parts for this mod, you'll must check that you car is pre-wired. Some 2000 & 01 cars don't have the loom in the engine bay, so this mod wont be possible. Read through this How To carefully and check all connections are present before ordering any parts. To check if the wiring is there, you need to check your ECU plug - The wire from the Clutch switch should go to pin 10. Disconnect your ECU plug - It's located at the rear right hand side of your engine block. You need to push the plastic clip down and flip the metal lever over to plug. (It can be quite stiff). You then need to release the tubing and remove the boot off the back off the plug. Once you've done that, count 10 holes back from the front of the plug. Pin 10 should be in between a Brown wire (pin9) and a Black Wire (pin11). If you have a wire there, carry on with the How too...... If it looks like the photo (left). Replace the plug and leave alone.

Check 2 - The stalk loom Remove the highlighted part in the photo (right) and use a Philips screwdriver to remove the screw beneath, then turn the steering wheel the other way and do the same on the other side. Once both screws are out, carefully lift off the top cover.

This determines if you have the wiring loom in the steering column housing - youre looking for a loose 4 pin connector on the indicator loom. *NOTE* - Some models do NOT have this connector but have the Clutch switch already fitted. If this is the case CC can't be fitted.

Check 3 The clutch and brake pedals Remove the drivers side cubby hole by undoing the 4 x turn screws.

If you have the correct brake switch it will have 4 wires going into it as below, if it only has 2 youll need a new switch.

The photo (right) is the connector plug for the clutch switch, its located around the clutch coming from the loom that goes over the foot heaters. Assuming that all the wires and connecters have been found, you can now order the parts and commence fitting.

Parts required Screwdrivers Philips &, small flathead Stalk Part No.13142073 (26.75 + VAT = 31.41) Clutch Switch Part No.90590574 or 9185907 or 55701396 depending on your car (16.45 + VAT = 19.32). The clutch switch can be pot luck you'll have to ask your dealer which one is correct for your car (VIN number) Total cost - 50.73 (plus any cost for enabling the CC on the Tech2 if required) Step 1 Remove the steering column cover as described above. Remove the stalk by depressing the clip as shown, theres a similar one on the other side, it then just slides out.

Remove the stalk from the connector by lift the 2 clips as shown - theres one on the other side too.

Fit the new stalk, to the connector and remember to fit the small 4 pin cruise control loom to the stalk as well. Once done, refit the stalk to the steering column, and refit the top cover. It should then look like the photo below

Step 2 Remove the cover over the pedals by undoing the 2 turn screws on the front edge and pull it out of the plastic clips at the back. Then remove the air ducting. To do this, pull out the clip (as shown) on the edge of the dashboard trim. And then remove the ducting (with a bit of wiggling) Youll then be able to get a better view of the top of the clutch pedal.

Next to the clutch (at the top) therell be a metal plate with a square hole in it, with a notch on one corner. You have to be a contortionist for this part, but try to get something to hold the clutch pedal down to make things easier.

Connect the clutch switch loom to the switch; itll only fit 1 way.

Pull the red part out so that the clips on the plunger can move freely. Push the switch into the hole with the notch on, and then push the red part back into the clutch switch - this will secure it. This is how the switch should look fitted; when the clutch is released it should press on the switch. Now the clutch switch is in place, put you foot UNDER the clutch pedal and pull it towards you. You'll hear a series of clicks this is the self adjuster on the switch to make sure the switch is active as soon as you press the clutch pedal. Refit the air duct and under dash panel Now go try it out!! If it doesnt work you may need to go on tech2.

How To.. Debadge the Boot


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. This is the same process for any Astra, except that the MK4 has 2 holes under the Griffin badge, so dont attempt to remove it unless you have an alternative plan to deal with the exposed holes Tools required: Hairdryer Old credit card or similar plastic card White spirit Polish of you choice

Step 1 Place the hairdryer at an angle to the badge and gently apply the heat. Then using the corner of a credit card, slowly start prise the badge away from the car, taking care not to scratch the paintwork It will look the photo (right) as the badge starts to come away. Important note: dont get to close to the badge with the hairdryer as it will auto switch off when it gets to hot.

Carry on heating the badge, working your way around the edge and in towards the middle. Eventually the badge will come off and the car will look like this

Thanks to john for the How To

Step 2 Next wash the accumulated dirt from the area around the badge, so it is clean and looks like this Using the hairdryer again, warm up the remaining tape and use the edge of the credit card to carefully scrape away the remaining thick pieces of tape and glue residue.

With the best of the old tape out the way, remove any remaining old glue with some white spirit and a soft clean cloth

Step 3 Finally give the area a good polish and the final look is achieved.

Step4 Repeat the process for the other two badges on the chrome strip

Thanks to john for the How To

When all three are done, step back and admire your new smooth back end

Thanks to john for the How To

How To.. DeDe-lock the Drivers Door


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why Do this Mod? The drivers side lock on an Astra G is a reasonably well known security weak point. Anyone with knowledge of this can easily get round the deadlocking system and open the door. This modification remedies that buy removing the weak point altogether. It looks better

Parts needed Rear Drivers Side Handle (no lock hole) and Backing Plate. Step 1 Firstly remove drivers door card as detailed in another Astra-Sport How To Once the cards are off and safely out of the way, carefully peel back the plastic liner from the top rear edge. Take a look inside and youll see the view as in the picture to the right Undo the two fastenings (one nut and one Torx screw in the red squares) that hold on the yellow plastic cover. Carefully waggle the yellow cover off and remove. Remove the 2nd nut on the back of handle.

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 2 Now you can get at the lock mechanism (shown removed from the car for clarity) Carefully lift the mechanism off the two mounting studs and tease the end of the push rod out of the lower mounting (yellow square), and remove.

Step 3 You should now be able to see the back of the handle mechanism, which looks like this Carefully pop the retaining clip (red square) off the push rod, tease the rod out of the hole in the white lever and remove from car keep the rod handy as youll need this again. Now depress the three clips around the edge of the handle (yellow squares) and carefully remove the handle push the bottom edge out first. The handle should now lift away from the car

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 4 Refit the de-lock handle in the reverse of the above making sure the 3 clips engage securely on the bodywork. Next refit the pushrod, saved from Step 3 checking the handle operates correctly. There is an adjuster on the bottom end off the pushrod to adjust the length if needed, but it should be OK as it is. Once all is well, refit the clip to the rod on the end of the white lever. Fit the new backing plate do up both retaining nuts do not over tighten the nuts on the rear of the handle or they will 'spin' in the plastic handle and youll never get it off again. Do not refit the yellow plastic cover as it will catch on the larger counter weight of the new handle. Check all is working OK. Refit door card job done.

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Airbox ox How To.. Derestricted the Airb


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do This Mod? Inside the standard airbox there are two pipes that restrict airflow within the box. Removing these pipes will make the engine more responsive, and may liberate a few BHP in the process especially when done in conjunction with an aftermarket panel filter, and the Vectra C Inlet Pipe mod (see other Astra-Sport How Tos for further information) Note the example shown is a 1.6 MK4 Astra, but the process is similar for all models Step 1 Remove the top of the airbox by releasing the clips (circled blue) as shown, and the hose clip (circled green) holding the intake feed pipe to the airbox. Remove any other pipes that may be attached to the lid they just unclip and lift off. Once done, remove the airbox lid for the car.

Step2 On the underside of the lid you will see a cone shaped pipe - It is held in place by the two lugs (circled blue). Push these inwards whilst applying pressure to push the pipe out of the lid Thats the first pipe removed.
Thanks to M40 COO for the How To

Step 3 Its easier to take the base of the airbox off the car for the next pipe. Remove the panel filter, and place it somewhere clean and out of the way. Now pull the base of the airbox towards the front of the car, until the pins come clear of the mounting bracket. Lift the rear of the box over the bracket, and slide the lower half backwards and out of the car.

Step 4 The lower pipe is held in place by two lugs; however you can only get to one from the outside of the box (circled blue).

Put a large screwdriver in the hole and push firmly to release the lug, pushing it into the airbox.

Then pull and wiggle the pipe from the inside to remove it completely. Step 5 Refit the lower section, remembering to locate the intake feed correctly. Finally replace the filter, and then refit the lid, outlet pipe and any other hoses disturbed during removal.
Thanks to M40 COO for the How To

How To.. Detail You Car


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. This is a short guide to help anyone detail their car. The good thing is that the all materials and tools used are easy to source. These are the stages to keep a car looking its best. Whether on new or old paint-work, this system works. On certain colours, different polishes and waxes may look better/worse than others. The polishing stages can be done with a PC or rotary and hand. Stage 1 Washing Firstly you must have a clean car to start with, so washing properly is a valuable first step; you also need the correct tools to work with Two buckets Two or more mitts A good waffle weave towel to dry Some car wash clear coat safe stuff too! Just now many good washes are available, personally I opt for. Meguiars Soft wash gel Meguiars NXT (removes more protection than soft wash) 1Z Perls Monthly/Weekly depending on dirt build up. Poorboys slick suds Fill one bucket with carwash and water solution and the other with warm water. The carwash solution is to be used with a clean mitt only, and the other bucket is to dunk the used mitt to clean off any particles that may scratch the paint. Start by washing from roof down (equally) - dont do roof to skirt on passenger side then move onto roof to skirt on driver. Use one mitt for the roof to door and the other for door to skirt. Then just hose down and dry thoroughly with a Waffle Weave (WW) Step 2 Claying Once you have cleaned the car, you want to clay it, using some new carwash and water solution for lubrication just put some on the area with the mitt; make sure the clay has some solution on it too and rub back and forth, check your work and dont lean too heavily. Turn the clay when you see it getting dirty. Next you may want to wash again or just rinse depending on your personal preference.
Thanks to JJ for the How To

Step 3 Surface Analysis Look around the car looking for any deep scratches, swirls etc. Evaluate what polish you would want to attack the car with to get it ready for some sealant. Apply your choice of polish to the terry towel or applicator pad (terry towel has more of a bite and is better for oxidisation) then rub north-south, east-west and diagonals, never in a circle. For this step I use, and have access to, a range of polishes, but the ones I would recommend are. Poorboys SSR2.5 1Z Intensive Polish Meguiars Deep Crystal Stage 1 paint cleaner Dual Action Cleaner Polish Optimum Polish Once you have worked in the product, remove with a micro fibre polishing towel - make sure it is plush and is of high quality. Step 4 Perfecting Now you have a nice looking base for some perfecting. The previous step is to flatten out the clear/single stage and make sure it is as scratch free and swirl free as possible. So you now want to perfect that finish with a finer polish such as; SSR1 (Metallic) Autoglym Super Resin Polish (Dark Colours) 1Z Paint Polish (Dark Colours) 3M Machine Polish (Dark Colours) Meguiars Deep Crystal Polish (Dark Colours) Meguiars new car glaze #7 (Dark colours) Meguiars #80 speed glaze (Red, black etc) Step 5 Sealing Once you have polished the car now, its ready to be sealed. This is just a simple wipe over with your favourite sealant; some favourites of mine just now are Ex-P (Reflective) EX (Depth) NXT (has slight cleaners so may remove some glaze) (Metallic) Autoglym Gloss (Shine) Menzerna FMJ (Flake, Reflective) 4 star UPP (Flake, Reflective)
Thanks to JJ for the How To

After sealing its best to wait 24 hours before applying another coat or adding a wax. 24 hours have elapsed and your car has some dust on it - you can wash or quick detail. With Quick detail, you just simply spray and wipe to expose your sealed surface. Make sure you have enough lubrication or you will scratch the surface. Now here is the choice, many of todays sealants are rumoured to be layerable, although there are only a few that have been proved to be. In my opinion, I would add one more layer and thats it (unless you are working with an acrylic or layerable product), as it gives a more even coverage. If it did not cure or bite properly the last time, chances are it will this time. Step 6 Waxing Wait another 24 hours and apply your favourite wax. Dont ruin it now by reaching for the turtle wax extreme. Invest in a good wax e.g; P21s (Flake) Clearkote Carnauba Moose (Dark Colours) S100 (Flake) Souveran Paste Wax (Gloss, depth) Poorboys Nattys (Gloss and depth) Meguiars #16 (Depth, Flake, Gloss) Step 7 Wheels & Trim The wheels and trim were left out as everyone has their own choice of what they do. Although a good wheel cleaner like Meguiars/Poorboys etc is a must as some of the other brands (acid based) can destroy the finish if not compatible with the wheels. A good idea is to mix twice the normal washing strength of shampoo to test first on delicate alloys/chrome wheels etc. A handy tip is to polish and seal the wheels after they are completely clean to help with future washing. Trim can be dressed in many finishes from satin to gloss. The protectants normally state what finish is left on the container.

Thanks to JJ for the How To

Further Help and information For help on choosing the correct product for your needs, go to the experts http://reviews.autopia.org/ While you are there sign up too, for excellent advice and lots of information. http://autopia.org All products can be bought from various website based companies, here are just a few. www.seriousperformance.co.uk www.cleanandshiny.co.uk www.erazer.co.uk www.thepolishingcompany.co.uk http://www.autopia-carcare.com Finally an excellent step by step video to ultimate paint protection and preparation. http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=31&page=3

Thanks to JJ for the How To

How To.. Fit Speedo Dial Rings (MK4)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools required T20 torx bit/screwdriver Small flat bladed screwdriver Step 1 Locate and remove the four screws holding the instrument shroud to the dash board there are two at the top and one each side of the steering column shroud behind plastic covers, that need to be gently prised out.

Once these 4 are out, simply pull the shroud forwards and ease it out sideways from behind the steering wheel. Step 2 Next feel along the top edge of the binnacle and locate the ends of the clips that hold the Perspex cover on there are 4 along the top edge (about1 inch back) and two along the bottom. Press these in one at a time whilst carefully levering the cover forward. Once all are released lift the cover out.

Thanks to Buster Sri for the How To

Step 3 Give the rings a clean to remove any grease or dirt and fit them to the dials. Depending on the make/fit these may either just push in, or require some form of adhesive to hold them in. Once all are fitted (and any glue has dried) refit all the part in reverse order making sure to clean the perspex of any fingerprints and dust before refitting.

When all is done in its place, sit back and admire your results of your work..

Thanks to Buster Sri for the How To

How To.. Fit a Mk2 DigiDash to a Mk1


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required DigiDash from a Mk2, with both connecter plus and plenty of spare loom attached Gearbox Transducer, with plug and plenty of loom attached Mk2 instrument surround panel

When you remove the DigiDash from the Mk2, make sure you get both connector plugs with plenty of wire to make connecting it up easier. The same goes for the Transducer and the plug this is located on the gearbox where the Mk1 speedo cable would go. The plastic surround is needed because the DigiDash slopes the opposite way to the Mk1 analogue clocks and without this youll have a gap. Procedure Remove the clocks and speedo cable, then cut your loom close to the plugs and wire in the DigiDash as follows:Mk1 Loom Blue/Black Grey/Green Blue Blue/Green Brown/White Green White Blue/White Brown Black Black/White/Green Function (fuel gauge) (hazard light flasher) (temperature gauge) (oil light) (handbrake warning lamp) (rev counter) (Main beam warning lamp) (battery voltage reader) DigiDash Plugs Blue/Black White/Yellow Blue Blue/Green Brown/White Green White Blue/White

Join all Brown wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom Join all Black wires to the single one on the Mk1 loom Not used - this is the feed for the single tell tale indicator light

Thanks to Raz for the How To

Left and Right Indicator Tickers DigiDash Plugs Black/White Black/Green Function (indicator left ticker) (indicator right ticker) MK1 loom Join to the top wire on your indicator stalk Join to the bottom wire on your indicator stalk

To wire these in, remove the indicator stalk and cut the appropriate wire, then join it to the one from the DigiDash loom: i.e. on a block connector, there will be two wires in one end and one wire in the other. The wire from the DigiDash will need to be extended to reach your indicator stalk, but the wires will be Black/White and Black/Green - the same on your Mk1 indicator stalk. These must work as not having these flashing is an MOT failure! Transducer There are 3 wires on the transducer, wire these as follows: Red/Blue Black Brown goes to Red/Blue wire on the DigiDash loom goes to the positive terminal on your battery goes to the negative terminal on your battery

The black plastic part of the transducer simply screws into the Mk1 speedo spindle and to my knowledge, fits all Vauxhall MK1 and Mk2 gearboxs whether 1.2 or F20! Rev Counter If you are fitting the Digital Dash to a Mk1 that does not have a Rev counter on the original clock, run a wire to a spare terminal on your coil then connect this to the green wire on the DigiDash plug. Fitting in The two locating lugs on the bottom of the DigiDash will need trimming down to fit the Mk1 holes. You will also need to cut a section from the Mk2 surround: cut this as close as possible to the fold in the plastic to ensure this fits snugly, and then bond that part to your Mk1 surround. This is needed because without it you would be able see behind the dash, and thats not good! Choke Light As the Mk2 16v had an auto choke, you will need to trim down your existing light holder and fit this into the second slot from the right in the dash so when you pull on your choke, it illuminates on the dash. When all fitted back together, and admire!

Thanks to Raz for the How To

How To.. Remove Door Cards (3dr)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools required 1 Small electricians screwdriver 1 Philips No.2 screwdriver Step 1 Using the electricians screwdriver, remove the door pins by prising out the orange tab on one side. Once the side has lifted, you'll see a recess on the top of the tab - insert the screwdriver in there and gently lever out the other side. Once both sides are out, lift away door pin.

Step 2 Now remove the inside mirror trim/ tweeter housing by grasping it on the widow frame edge and pull sharply. The panel should pop off easily (if not, use the small screwdriver as a lever - but be careful not to scratch the paintwork). Usually one or two plastic retaining clips are left attached to the door - prise these out and refit to the trim panel. There's no need to disconnect the tweeter - just leave it dangling

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step3 Using the small screwdriver again, insert it into the gap between the grab handle and the arm rest and lever the grab handle off. Once this has lifted, carefully remove the cover on the grab handle by lifting the cover away from the door card, working towards the front top corner of the door. Pull the door catch out and lift the cover away. Disconnect the electric window switch (and mirror switch if doing the drivers side). Step4 Step4 Now using the Philips screwdriver - undo the four screws under the grab handle (arrowed).....

.....and the three along the bottom edge of the door

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 4 With all screws removed; lift the bottom rear corner of the door card away from the door. Pull sharply outwards to release the two plastic trim clips on the rear edge - these just pop out. Then work along the bottom edge to release the single centre clip, and finally repeat the 'sharp pull' on the leading edge to release the final two clips.

Step 5 Next use the Philips screwdriver to prise the top of the door card (weather-strip) off the inner door skin, door by inserting it into the gap on the top edge of the card, near the tweeter housing. Once one end is lifted, work towards the back of the card, prising it upwards and lift the door card away from the door slightly. Step 6 Finally prise out the blue clip that locates the door catch cable to the inside of the door card and release the nipple on the end of the cable - pull the door catch whilst manoeuvring the cable and it comes straight out Lift away the door card.

Refit in reverse order and remember to connect everything back up.

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Remove/Replace Replace the EGR Valve (X18XE1) How To.. Remove/ (X18XE1)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. This How To describes the method to remove/replace the EGR from the X18XE1 engine the process is similar for other engines fitted with an EGR, but the actual location and tools needed may vary accordingly. Tools Needed Torx Bit T30 Torx Socket E12 And required drivers/Ratchets Cups of tea if its as cold as it is now!!! Step 1 Open bonnet and remove the two small Torx bolts at the top of the engine cover (T30) and then remove the oil filler cap. Also remove the positive lead on the battery to prevent any accidents from occurring. Remove the engine cover by lifting it from the back NOTE : Remove the keys from the ignition and DO NOT replace until the work is complete

Step 2 You can now see the EGR valve in the above picture, on the left, (FYI the long plastic type object across the engine rocker cover is the coilpack.) Remove the wiring harness plug on top of the EGR valve it simply unclips.

Thanks to pardoe16v for the How To

Step 3 Remove the EGR valve using an E12 Torx socket on the two bolts holding it down. Once these two bolts are out, the EGR valve will simply lift away. Either clean out the EGR valve with carb cleaner or replace it (which is recommended). Always use a new gasket when refitting.

Step 4 To refit the new one, simply bolt it back down making sure the metal gasket is the right way around and correctly fitted, then plug it back in. Torque wrench setting - 20Nm or 15lbf ft Replace the engine cover and battery cable.

Thanks to pardoe16v for the How To

How To.. Fit Electric Door Mirrors


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required. Electric door mirrors (near side and off-side) Mirror switch (Part #9226863) Gusset x2 (Part #9100286/9100285) Relay (Part #24432680) Fuse 10A (Part # 91153942)

Note: Most Astra Gs will have the wiring in the door ready for you to fit the Electric mirror. However earlier cars dont and to fit them will mean replacing the whole wiring loom in both doors. This is possible, but a big job.!! Therefore this How To assumes you have the wiring already in place.

Step 1 - Removing the Tweeter Gusset To remove the Tweeter gusset, squeeze your fingers between the front window and trim and carefully pull. They are held on with three small plastic push studs. They can easily break, but are pence to replace from Vauxhall (90560163). Remove the wire from the tweeter. (You may be able to see a wire, just below the tweeter wire. This will be for your Electric Mirror and you may not need to take your door car off in that case go straight to Step 3) 3

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 2 - Removing Door Card Prise off the cover on the door handle, its tight but will come off with a little force. Then undo the four screws you can now see under the handle. (If you can see a grey L-shaped plug and can get to it, you wont have to remove the door card. - this plug needs to be fed through the blank just in front of the release handle) Undo the three screws at the bottom of the door. Once the screws are removed, pull the door card from the bottom rear corner, popping off the larger Plastic Push studs (90321122). Using a flat blade screw driver and a bit of wood to protect your door card, carefully prise up the weather seal from the door frame, its easier if youve lowered your window first. Remove the cable from the back of the door release handle and unplug the Electric window switch. You should then be able to see the Electric Window wires - One black Square plug for the mirror and one grey L-shaped plug for the switch. Step 3 - Replacing the mirrors. With the front door open, unscrew the three crosshead screws holding the mirror in place. Then lift away the mirror from under the rubber strip. Clean off any dirt thats found its way under the plastic trim. Fit the new mirror ensuring the plastic tag sits under the rubber seal. Connect the black square plug into the back of your Electric mirror.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 4 - Refit the door card Ensure the blanking plate for the mirror switch, and electric window switch has been removed and check all the plastic trim studs are O.K. Refit the lock release handle to the cable. Offer up the door card and pull the relevant wiring through the correct switch holes. Refit the weather-strip on the door card to the door just lower it on and push downwards Sharply tap the push studs back in place. Plug in the Electric window/mirror switches and fit them to the door card. Refit all the screws and interior handle cover. Step 5 - Fitting the new gusset. Unclip the tweeter from your old interior gusset and fit it to the new one. Swap the three small push stud over too. Then just press the gusset back on the door frame. Fitting the Passenger side mirror is exactly the same.

Step 6 - Fuse and relay fitting Remove the fuse box cover and push the 10A fuse into slot 41. (This will allow the electric mirrors to move.)

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Fit the relay into the shown position. - This will enable the heating elements to work (when you turn on the rear screen de-mist) Finally switch on the ignition, check everything is working and adjust the mirrors. Job Done.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

only) ) How To.. Fit a Powerflex Front Engine Mount (MK4 F23 only
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do this Mod? The standard front engine mount is of a voided design, meaning its got holes in it. This limits the amount of engine vibration transmitted to the shell, which is all well and good in a standard car. However the rubber weakens with age/power increases and can cause the engine to flex too much making gear changes difficult. Too much engine flexing can also damage radiator and intercooler mountings on Turbo cars fitted with powerpipes. An essential mod for those with short shifters. shifters. Tools required: required T20 Torx bit (male) 16mm spanner Lump of wood WD40 Torque Wrench Time required: 1-2 hours. Step 1 Remove the front bumper (see How To section) to make access a lot easier. It also means you dont have to jack the car up so high off the ground, making things a little a safer. Step 2: Spray WD40 or similar on the bolts and let it soak in. In the meantime, raise the front passenger side of the car: I did this by placing the jack under the sub frame mounting and lifting the car high enough to get the axel stand underneath. Repeat for the other side. Next, position the jack with a block of wood on the head, under where the gearbox joins the engine and jack it up just enough to take the weight of the engine, and no more!!. The photo shows the WD40 going to work on the mount: 16mm socket Trolley jack and axel stands E18 Torx socket (female) Thread lock

DarrylB Thanks to Darryl B for the How To

Step 3 Using the 16mm spanner and socket, undo the sub frame-to-mount nut, remove the bolt. Then using the E18 female torx socket, undo the 2 mount-to-gearbox bolts. The mount should be easy to remov then. Step 4 Give the mount and rubber a good clean to remove all dirt and grit and then insert the two poly bushes on either side of the mount. Note: the Powerflex bushes are handed and so must be fitted to the correct side, so that they sit flush in the mount.

Step 5 Offer up the mount back up to the car and loosely fit the mount-to-gearbox bolts first, REMEMBER to put a good squeeze of thread lock on the bolts first! Align the bolt up with hole and attach the nut on the mount-to-sub frame side, again using plenty of thread lock to be sure. Go round and tighten each of the bolts to the specified torque. Mount-Gearbox - 60Nm (44 lbf ft) Mount-Sub frame - 55Nm (41 lbf ft) Step 6 Lower the jack from the engine, and then lower the car to the ground. Finally, refit the bumper and the job is done!

DarrylB Thanks to Darryl B for the How To

(Astra Astra G) How To.. Remove the Front Bumper (


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required No.20 Torx bit (star shaped). Small flat bladed screw-driver. A pair of long nose pliers. Step 1 Turn your front wheels to full right lock; this will enable you to get to the screw in the left wheel arch. Using the No20 Torx bit, undo both screws around the wheel arch. Then turn your wheel to full left lock and repeat for the other side. Note This bumper is fitted with an Irmscher lip.

Step 2 Working under the car you need to locate the three clips holding the bottom of the bumper to the car.

To remove these clips, you have to extract the pin in the centre, and then pull the outer away. I found it easier to lever out the pin with a flat bladed screwdriver and pull it out with some long nose pliers.
Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 3 Before removing any more clips, release the brackets at each wheel arch - To do this, carefully prise out the tab at the top of the arch. The bumper is also slightly held in under the wing but it should release quite easily.

Step 4 All that is now holding the bumper on is the two clips at the top. To access these clips, open your bonnet and remove then in the same way as clip B

If you rest your knees against the bumper it wont fall as you remove the last clip. Your bumper should then just lift away from the car and rest on the blanket

Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 5 Youll need to unclip the air temperature sensor (right) And the front fog lights, if fitted (below)

Then your bumper should be off the car. ReFitting. To refit your bumper it is, in true Haynes manual style, exactly the opposite of removal. But things to watch out for are. When refitting the brackets in behind the arch, the bumper may not sit correctly under the wing. A soft tap on the bumper with the palm of your hand will help it back in place. When fitting Clip B it is easier to fit the outer part of in position then push the pin into place.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

How To.. Change the Fuel Filter (Petrol Engines)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Part Nos 25320277 - Fuel filter The fuel filter is located just in front of the rear nearside wheel you should be able to get to it with the car on the ground, but jacking it up at the back and supporting on axel stands makes the job a lot easier. Step 1 Firstly, depressurise the fuel rail somewhere near the injector rail is the depressurisation point: it looks like a big tyre valve cap (shown circled on the photo of a 2.2 engine). You may have to remove the engine cover to find it!!! Unscrew the cap carefully as the rubber seal inside can sometimes fall out and disappear into the depths of the engine!! Then depress the centre pin on the valve to release the pressure. Some petrol will come out, so use a clean absorbent cloth to catch it and prevent it going all over the engine. You will need to press the pin a few times to ensure the fuel system is fully depressurised. When done, refit the cap (making sure the rubber seal is located correctly)

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 2 With the fuel system depressurised, locate the fuel filter and undo the small Torx screw (circled red) which holds the filter to the underside of the car. Then gently prise the filter from the bracket this should then give to enough slack to get at the pipe clips. Doing one side at a time, push the filter into the pipe a bit to relieve the tension on the clips (blue square), and depress the 2 wings - one on each side of the clip - to release them. And the pull the filter from the pipe. Be prepared for some petrol running down your arm!! If youve got strong fingers you should be able to do this quite easily, but failing that use two small screw drivers to push in the wings nearest to the filter. Repeat for the other side. Step 3 Now, using a small screw driver, carefully swap the clips from the old filter to the new one making sure you refit them the correct way round. Then simply refit the new filter to the fuel lines (making sure that it is fitted the correct way round) - it simply pushes in to the pipe until it clicks. There is a flow direction arrow on the filter to help you. Finally, refit the filter to the bracket and tighten the Torx screw. Then turn the ignition on for 5-10 seconds to re-pressurise the fuel system Job done!!

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

How To.. Replace the Gear Knob Knob


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Tools required Stanley knife Junior Hacksaw Small Flat Blade Screwdrivers Small Allen Key (usually provided) Step 1 Using a small flat blade screwdriver, prise out the cap from the top of the gear knob.

Step 2 Carefully score the rubber gear knob with the Stanley knife, as shown, and then proceed to cut a along the lines until the rubber portion can be peeled away. Take care not to slip and gouge the centre console or seats!!!

Thanks to Kinsella for the How To

Step 3 With the rubber removed, use the junior hacksaw to remove the underlying plastic part. Note one some models this part is soft aluminium alloy, but the process is identical. Its advisable to lay an old cloth around the base of the gear stick to catch the debris, whilst you are sawing.

Step 4 With the old gear knob removed, take a few minutes to clean up every last bit of debris before proceeding to installing the new knob Dont loose the spring!!

Step 5 Some aftermarket knobs fit directly to the stalk, but Irmscher ones require a collar to be clamped to the stalk before the knob can be fitted. Please refer to the manufacturers instructions on the correct fitting procedure to ensure its a good tight fit, (and that you can still get reverse!). If any bonding agents are required, give it ample time to fully set before using the car

Thanks to Kinsella for the How To

The final product...

Thanks to Kinsella for the How To

How To.. Install a Lockable Glovebox Lid.


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Needed 9199416 - Glovebox Handle Cover (with lock hole). You will also need your V5 and your key code from your CAR PASS CARD - Normally a letter and 3 numbers (example D123), so that you get the correct lock for your car Some cars already have a latch that will accomodate the lock mechanism without the need to buy a new one, so check first. If you dont, then you will need to get the appropriate latch Part No.90437502 Step 1 Using a Torx T-20 Screwdriver remove the glovebox by removing all six Torx screws (3 along the top and 3 along the bottom). When all the screws are out, youll need to pull the box forward slightly and disconnect the light connector on the right hand side before you can fully withdraw the box. It is advisable to remove the glovebox lid by removing the two hinges pins at the base of the glove box lid. This will make removing the latch mechanism much easier. Use a thin screwdriver or punch to push out the hinges as shown on the right Once the hinges have been removed, and the lid separated, the process of removing the old latch mechanism from the lid can commence.

Thanks to BasilD & Keif for the How To

Step 2 Line up the glovebox lid as shown right: Next you need a fairly large flat blade screwdriver to pry out the latch mechanism. NOTE: Ensure that you do not use too small a screwdriver, as this will damage the glove box lid. Position the Screwdriver as shown below and push it under the base of the latch mechanism. Some force may be required as the latch mechanism is clipped in quite firmly. It will pop out making quite a noise - this is normal. NOTE: NOTE It is advisable to place a cloth between the glovebox lid and the screwdriver to protect the lid from damage. Step 3 Assemble the Lockable Latch by inserting the lock and the outer cover of the latch onto the latch mechanism. This will leave you with this: If you have the correct latch on your car, the old cover simply unclips.

Thanks to BasilD & Keif for the How To

Once the latch mechanism is assembled as shown above, the process of clipping in the new lock latch mechanism can commence. Step 4 Position the new lockable latch mechanism (as per photo right) and push firmly on the lower edge it until it clips into place as shown below. Note: The angle of the latch mechanism, as this is the angle that you will need to position the latch mechanism in order to clip it back into place.

Step 5 Re-attach the lid to the glovebox, and reinsert the glovebox back into the car. NOTE: OTE dont forget to reconnect the light!! Congratulations you now have a lockable glovebox!

Thanks to BasilD & Keif for the How To

How To.. Fit an Aftermarket Head Unit (Astra H)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required: Fascia adaptor and Canbus to ISO adaptor (Vauxhall part no. for matt chrome effect 93165013 Head unit Release keys (Double Din size) Torx head screwdriver set Wire strippers Wire snips Before beginning you should disconnect the negative terminal from the battery to be on the safe side. You should also be aware before carrying out this mod, that while you will still have access access to the trip computer via the steering wheel controls, you WONT have access to the settings menu which means you cant adjust the clock or date without reattaching your old head unit. So in my case this meant removing the glove box and reconnecting the old one to change the date. Doesnt bother me but it may bother some of you. Step one First thing to do is remove the old head unit, this is simply a case of inserting the release keys into the 4 holes on the Head unit (no grub screws to remove first in the Mk5) and then pull them back bringing the head unit with it. This can be a bit of a pig for some people. Just make sure you insert the pins in as far as theyll go and then gently splay them out to the sides while pulling back gently, be patient and itll come out. Once its out, disconnect the wiring from the back of the head unit.

Thanks to Stu Sxi For the How To

When the Head unit has been successfully removed you will see a black cage, which the head unit sat in - remove this also.

Step Two The next step is to remove the heater control panel: this is simply done by levering up two clips on the top right and left of the heater control unit with a flat head screwdriver. The unit will then pull away from the centre console it needs a little force, but it will come out. Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the back of the unit. Once you have removed the heater control panel, you will see two torx head screws in the bottom right and left corners of the centre console which are the only two screws holding the centre console in place, remove these two torx head screws. Step Three We can now remove the centre console trim - there are two retaining clips in the top right and left hand corners (circled) that hold the trim panel on. Some force will be required to pull the trim out of these clips; dont try levering it off with a screwdriver as this isnt necessary. Simply pull the trim in a quick sharp motion at the top and itll come away. Unclip the connector for the hazard lights, etc, at this point.

Thanks to Stu Sxi For the How To

Step Four There should be a clip included in the fascia adaptor kit (below left): this attaches to the circled hole. This is needed to attach the fascia support, which is attached as per this picture:

Step Five You can now attach the wiring adaptor thats included in the set to the Head unit connector in the car. The adaptor should also include an adaptor for the aerial - this also needs to be connected. You will notice that the wiring adaptor has two loose wires which are not connected to anything - one is Black and one is Grey/Yellow These two wires need to be run through the red circled hole, up behind the recess, and back out through the yellow circled hole. Removing the glove box makes this much easier - undo the 4 Torx screws on the glove box and give the box a sharp pull to release the clips, and out it comes. Dont forget to unclip the light connector at the back.

Thanks to Stu Sxi For the How To

Step six You now need to splice the two wires into the hazard light (etc) loom The Black wire needs connecting to the Black wire in the hazard light loom and the Grey/Yellow wire needs connecting to you guessed it the Grey/Yellow wire in the hazard light connector. The easiest way to do this is to simply trim of sort section of the plastic sheathing back to expose the wire itself (taking care not to cut the wire itself) and then separate the wires evenly in two: this will then allow you to weave the black wire from the adaptor through the wire in the hazard light connector, thus ensuring a good strong connection. Repeat this process for the Grey/Yellow wire. These can then be insulated with electrical tape, but soldering is recommended to make a permanent joint. Alternatively you could do this process with electrical connectors Step seven Once you have connected the wires, the centre console trim can be reconnected to its electrical connector and clipped back into place and the two torx head retaining screws can also be screwed back in. The heater control unit can also be reconnected and pushed back into its housing till the clips engage. The fascia plate can now be pushed into its home and secured by inserting the supplied screw into the back of the storage area and tightening. So thats it all done, now simply connect your head unit up as per the manufacturers instructions. Once the new head unit is all installed you can reconnect the battery, but you will find that the date and time on the MFD will need resetting: do this as mentioned on the first page.

Thanks to Stu Sxi For the How To

How To.. Fit HID lights


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Needed Junior Hacksaw Drill T20 Torx Screwdriver & Flathead Screwdriver (if removing front bumper) Cable Ties (If not supplied with HID kit)

Step 1 Remove bulb holders from back of headlight (dipped beam) and remove H7 bulb.

Step 2 Take the bulb holder and cut off the L-Shaped back section using a hacksaw (have plenty of spare blades!). Cut from all sides until you feel you are hitting metal After doing this, pull the cut piece away from the part with the lugs on. This will bring out all of the bulb contacts.

Thanks to jcastraDTi for the How To

Step 3 Using a drill, drill out the rest of the plastic from the back of the bulb holder - this will allow the wires connected to the back of the HID bulb to pass through the holder and be connected to the ballast. Drill out as much as possible, and then tidy up the edges with a file and/or sandpaper.

Step 4 Take the protective plastic covers off the HID bulbs and then thread the two wires through the back of the bulb holder. You may find your HID kit has 4 wires: the two wires with spade connectors on the end are not needed, so cut these off and pull the wires through the rubber seal WARNING Do not touch the bulbs with your fingers, it will damage them

Step 5 Now squeeze the rubber seal through to the back of the bulb holder. This is quite tight but it will go through with patience and a bit if effort. Then push the rubber seal right up to the back of the bulb holder so it holds the bulb firmly in place

Thanks to jcastraDTi for the How To

Step 6 Now the delicate part carefully fit the bulb and holder into the headlight.

Step 6 Connect the wires from the bulb to the wires on the ballast box. Then plug the ballast box into the original bulb socket from the car - it will only go in one way round. Once done, test to see if the bulb lights. If it does not (as I have found), the socket from the car needs to be adjusted as follows The clip which holds the plug onto the original bulb holders needs to be removed as it prevents the plug from being fitted to the ballast the other way round. This can be done but just snipping either side of the clip with side cutters to remove it.

Thanks to jcastraDTi for the How To

Step 7 Securing the ballast boxes can be done in a variety of ways depending on what engine you have and how you want to do it. The best way is to take the front bumper off (see How To on removing front bumper) and secure the ballast using the bracket provided with the kit to the bottom headlight bracket (photo right) or like I have done, just find somewhere to cable tie the ballast box to, so it is secure and will not come loose. (Photos below)

Enjoy your new lights!!

Thanks to jcastraDTi for the How To

How To.. Clean the Idle Control Valve (early Ecotec Engines)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do this job? The Ecotec Idle Valves (ICV) are well known for getting gummed up with oily deposits which causes them to stick, resulting in stalling or high revving at idle. However its an easy task to sort the problem out. An X20XEV is used in this How-To, but the process is the same for other engines. Tools required Flat blade screwdriver Allen keys Silicon grease spray (or clean engine oil) Carb Cleaner (aerosol) Step1 Unscrew the 2 jubilee clips marked in red in the picture below and lift off the inlet pipe. Then unclip the plug to the Solenoid, marked in yellow. Place the inlet pipe out of the way - there is no need to disconnect the breather hose. However is it wise to take the opportunity to remove the intake hose completely and clean out any oily residue from the inside this will necessitate the removal of the small jubilee clip seen on the elbow. Step Step 2 Remove the two Allen screws from the ICV, marked in red and remove the idle valve assembly from the throttle body. With the Idle Valve off the car, remove the two screws from the solenoid mounting, marked in blue. Carefully remove solenoid from the valve, taking care to retain the rubber O-Ring.

Thanks to Townshend Systems and Software Development for the How To

Step 3 Liberally spray carb cleaner inside the Valve body, through each of the holes two on the throttle body side and one on the solenoid end. With fingers covering the holes give the assembly a good shaking. Repeat this procedure for a number of times (5-10 times), until the valve spindle moves freely against the spring and the carb cleaner drains clear. Step 4 Shake out remaining cleaner and allow to dry, then lubricate with a small amount of spray silicon grease (but some light oil or clean engine oil will suffice) on the contact areas and reassemble. Use the remainder of the carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and intake pipe (following instructions on the can) whilst the parts are disassembled. Reassemble all parts, remembering to refit the O ring, and connect up the cable to the solenoid.

Thanks to Townshend Systems and Software Development for the How To

How To.. Fit Irmscher Door Sill Covers


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. This guide covers fitting to a 3dr Mk4, but the process will be similar with other body stiles and makes of sills Items needed Your Irmscher Sill Covers Some Cleaning Wipes ( I used Glass wipes ) A Cloth Step 1 Firstly; remove the bottom door seal to fit any sill cover that has a curve (like the Irmscher ones). It comes off very easily, so start at one end and lift gently upwards.

Step 2 Next you will need to thoroughly clean the area where the sill cover will be fitted. For this, I used a few glass cleaning wipes and then wiped of with a clean dry cloth. Make sure this is done thoroughly and all dirt is removed, before continuing as the sill cover might not stick.

Thanks to Sloodge for the How To

Step 3 Next step is to locate where you want to put the sill cover. On my car I had the following grooves and used them to align the sill cover. You might need to mark the area with a pencil or tape (on both door sills) if you dont have these grooves.

Step 4 Put the sill in place to see how it looks (do not remove the film over the sticky strips yet). Once youre happy go to step 5.

Step 5 Remove the red backing film from the adhesive strips.

Thanks to Sloodge for the How To

Step 6 When putting the sill covers in place, align the back edge first (1) and when its in the correct place, lower it onto the sill (2) Cover the sill cover with the clean cloth and press down firmly, along the entire length, to make sure it is fully in place.

Step 7 Once the cover is in place, refit the door seal make sure it goes back properly, starting from the back to the front of the door. There is a small cutout on the sill that lines up with a bump, in the rubber strip

Step 8 Admire the work and maybe have a cuppa, then get starting on the other side The entire job took me 20 minutes (this included drinking a cup of tea, as well as taking the photos).

Thanks to Sloodge for the How To

How To.. Remove the Orange Diffuser from the Multi Function Display
(MK4 MY02 onwards)

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done.

NOTE: NOTE This mod is for all Astra Gs built post-Oct 2001 inclusively (i.e. MY02 onwards). You will need the white diffuser from a pre MY02 Astra to be able to do this modification. Otherwise this will be a useless exercise. This "how to" assumes you have your MFD (Multi Function Display) removed from the car. Also this is a cheaper way than using LEDs as a form of changing the colour of the MFD by using plastic sleeves over the 2x12V/2W bulb which lights this unit up. Step1 Lift the three plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the display unit, and withdraw the rear cover.

Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How To

Step 2 Depress the four clips (arrowed) that hold the fascia cover to the inner frame and the remove fascia plate

Step 3 VERY CAREFULLY lift up the tab (arrowed) which holds down the LCD screen. Damage to the connections will result in missing letters from the screen!!! The rubber seal may also stick to the LCD, so be careful and slowly pry that off the LCD screen.

Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How To

Step 4 Now you can see the orange diffuser. There are tabs on both ends that you need to lift up ...

and also in the middle of the top edge.

Note: that the bulbs & white diffuser itself are not shown in the picture, but is exactly the same as the orange diffuser in the picture, only it is white. Installation is the reversal of this procedure.

Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How To

How To.. Fit LEDs to Door Switches (Mk5)


Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required Soldering Iron with small tip. Fine Solder T8 Torx Head Driver Solder Sucker (Optional) Tweezers (or borrow the wifes/girlfriends)

And a small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-) available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk

Step 1 Firstly you need to disassemble the switch, to be honest if you can't do this without a set of instructions then youre wasting your time, although a few pointers wont hurt. You will firstly need to remove the 6 x T10 Torx screws from the rear of the switch

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

The switch shown opposite is from an Astra Mk5 with electric rear windows, but whatever Astra you have, yours will be similar. The screwdriver is pointing to one of the lugs, which you need to gently lever apart to open up the switch

Step 2 Once done, you will be left with 2 parts one is the plastic housing the other is the PCB containing the LED's (highlighted with RED dots) You now need to remove the existing LEDs, Just de-solder one side at a time and bend the LED away from the PCB. Please Note: on each LED there is a small green mark; the orientation needs to be noted for when you solder the new ones in place.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step 3 Solder in the new LEDs, one at a time, taking care to ensure they are the correct way round

Step4 When all are done, test fit the switch in the car before you reassemble it, to check that they all work OK., If any dont light up, then you have soldered them the wrong way round. If you find any that arent working then you need to remove that particular LED, and throw it away and solder a new one on the correct way round.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

And all back together again

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Heater Controls (Mk5)


Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required Soldering Iron with small tip. Fine Solder Solder Sucker (Optional) Tweezers (or borrow the wifes/girlfriends)

A small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-) available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk

Step 1 Firstly you need to disassemble the Heater Panel: There are 8 little tabs around the outside you need to
insert a small screwdriver and lever the tabs gently, gently prise the back cover off.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step2 After you have gently levered them apart you will be left with 2 parts, one being a PCB in a plastic housing this will need to be unclipped and GENTLY levered out.

That leaves you with this. DONT TURN THE DIALS - if you do its an absolute bugger to get you controls to work properly.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step3 Firstly you need to remove the little black rubbers then unsolder the existing LEDs. Unsolder one side at a time and bend the LED away from the PCB. Please Note: on each LED there is a small green mark , or a corner missing - this needs to be noted down for when you solder the new item in place.

Step4 The first 3 LEDS illuminate the dials; the RED arrows indicate the direction of the cut-out. There are 4 soldered connections for each LED and its quite small. Dont hurry, take your time and you will be fine. There are 6 other LEDS on that circuit board: they are even smaller but to be honest easier, the LED positions are highlighted by BLUE arrows. If you cannot find the small green mark (it can be difficult) look for a little circle to one end of the LED, and as long as the new one you attach is the same way round everything will work correctly. If any do not light up, then you have soldered them the wrong way round. If you find one (I did) then you need to remove that particular led, throw it away and solder a new one on the correct way round. If you still make a mistake go to www.ledconversions.co.uk and email me. Reassemble the unit, re-fit and test.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

All back together again

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Headlight Switch (Mk5)


Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required Soldering Iron with small tip. Fine Solder T8 Torx Head Driver Solder Sucker (Optional) Tweezers (or borrow the wifes/girlfriends)

A small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-) available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk

Step 1 Firstly you need to disassemble the switch, to be honest this is probably more difficult that actually soldering the new LEDs into position. Firstly you need to GENTLY prize apart the 6 lugs that hold the switch together.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step 2 After removi ng the top cover, remov e the small plastic clip that surrounds the switches on the right hand side.

Step3 Unclip the two switch covers on the right hand side to allow access to the PCB and then unscrew the 6 Torx screws that hold the bottom piece of the switch together. ONCE UNSCREWED DO NOT TURN THE DIALS !! You can now gently lever off the top cover of the switch to reveal the PCB below and peel off the little rubber bungs.

Step4 Once the PCB is removed, you will notice the little arrows in the corner of the LEDs, this denotes the
Thanks to Darwin for the How To

direction of the cut-out in the corner of the new LEDs. Unsolder one LED at a time (and be careful), good soldering takes time and will make the end result look better. Reassembly is basically the reverse, things to watch out for are making sure the screws are tight on assembly and making sure the connector is properly fastened to the loom once reconnected.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Roof Console (Mk5)


Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required 1 x pair of Small Pliers or side cutters 1 x pair of tweezers 3 x 3mm LEDs 13,000mcd

Leds are available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk

Step 1 With the roof console removed from the car, identify the three LEDs that are to be changed (circled in red).

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step2 Take one of the new LEDs, and looking closely, you will notice that it has a corner cut off the round surface. Turn the LED so that the flat is facing upwards and bend the closest leg upwards, bend the other leg at right angles as in the picture. Warning : Bend the leg approx 6mm away for the led so it looks similar to the ones already in position.

Step 3 You now have to remove the old orange LEDs from the circuit board, Just cut the wires and wiggle them free. you may find it easier to lift the copper track slightly. Step 4 When you have done this, lay the new LED roughly in the position it needs to be in, and cut off the excess wire from the legs of the LED. (Sorry about the low quality of the picture, I think it gives you the right idea)
When happy with the position, simple fit the legs under the copper tracks Repeat for the other two, which should take about 5 mins in total.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

When all are done it should look like the panel you started off with

Finally, refit the panel back in the car

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

How To.. Fit LEDs to the Instruments (Mk5)


Astra Owners Club disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools Required Soldering Iron with small tip. Fine Solder T10 Torx Head Driver Solder Sucker (Optional) Tank Tape Tweezers (or borrow the wifes/girlfriends)

A small and rather expensive pile of LEDS :-) available from http:/www.ledconversions.co.uk

Step 1 The 2 pictures you see below are the front and back views of set of Astra H, (Mk5) Clocks , these are are from an automatic, but it makes little difference except the automatic has 2 more LEDs (They will be missing if you have a manual).

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Start by removing the 8 x T10 screws from the rear cover of the clocks, and lift off the cover

Step 2 There is one small clip at each side that needs unclipping, when you have done so the clock face and PCB separate as shown

Step 3 The easiest way to remove the 3 needles without damaging them is to insert a fork under them and gently lever, If you dont have a Thomas the Tank Engine fork handy, feel free to use Postman Pat or similar.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

After you remove the needles remove the black fascia and you will be left with this

Step 4 Now, this one is a bit of bugger so BE GENTLE!! Lever the 2 parts apart slightly after, releasing the clip. The point of this is to remove the black display holder as shown below this unclips with 4 lugs, the problem is there is a fragile ribbon cable connected to it that you REALLY dont want to break.

So separate the opposite side to where the screen is located by approx 3cm , this should be enough to get your fingers in and unclip the black part , sorry I couldnt get a better picture but I only have 2 hands.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Step 5 Ok now a backward step re-assemble the unit together without the black LCD holder as shown in the photo above. You then need to gently fold over the LCD panel as shown in the picture (right) without putting too much stress on the ribbon cable.

Step 6 Safety first , cut a piece of tank tape and stick the ribbon cable to the PCB , you can leave it in place and dont need to remove it , I dont want you to brake your clocks !

Step 7 Ok now to the solder part... The little RED arrows are next to the LEDs you need to change, the direction of the arrow corresponds with a small cut out on the edge of the LEDs. There are 17 LEDs on an automatic and 15 on a manual. If you have a manual the top two in the central group of six are missing You need to remove the LEDs one at a time and solder in the replacement. Its recommended that you print out the above picture and cross off when you have completed each LED.
Thanks to Darwin for the How To

Its not as difficult as it looks, and the main things to remember is take your time and remember to check on the above picture which way round the LEDs fit. When you have completed the above, re-assemble and refit.

Thanks to Darwin for the How To

How To.. Nova Mirrors to a Mk1


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required One pair of Nova Door mirrors its worth colour coding the shells before you start Step 1 On the back of the Nova mirror you will notice a roundish moulding that goes through the door which the screws go in to this will need to be trimmed slightly to fit a Mk1. If you offer it up against the Mk1 door you'll be able to see exactly the area that needs cut back with a hacksaw. Step2 Once this is done put the mirror flush against the door and mark on the black alloy window trim where you need to cut to make the mirror flush with the door. You only need to trim a very small piece off. Step3 Now youll notice that only two of the original Mk1 mirror mounting holes will line up, the other won't as that was part of the plastic base plate that you've just cut away. Step4 When everything lines up perfectly and youre happy, put some threadlock on the two remaining screws and fasten the mirror securely to the door Step5 Next you'll need to cut a small hole in the passenger side trim to allow the remote adjuster arm to poke through; the driver's side fits fine. It took me about half an hour and its well worth it!

Thanks to Raz for the How To

How To.. Change the Engine Oil


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts required Correct oil filter for your Engine Correct oil for your Engine New Sealing Ring for the sump plug metal or rubber depending on engine Check which you need before purchasing any parts Step 1 Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure that the oil is warm, so that it flows better 10 minutes should do it. You want it warm, not hot. Then switch off the engine Look under the car and locate the sump plug it will be at the lowest point on the sump. On some engines it will be towards the gearbox, and on others it will towards the crankshaft pulley end. Once located, jack up (and support on an axel stand) the front wheel on the opposite side of the car to the sump plug, to help with the drainage, eg Z18XE Z22SE

The plug is located on the bottom front corner of the sump, next to the bell housing so jack up the drivers side front wheel

The plug is located on the back of the sump at the crank pulley end so jack up the passenger side front wheel
Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

Step 2 Note the engine will be hot!! So be careful especially when working near the exhaust Undo the oil filler cap, but do not remove it just leave it loose in the hole so that dirt cant get fall in. Its also a good idea to remove the engine cover (if fitted), so that spills can be easily cleaned up when you come to refill it.

Step 3 Undo the sump plug a few turns and then place a bucket/bowl underneath the sump. Then continue to undo the sump bolt and let the oil drain fully Don't worry too much if you drop the sump plug in the bucket - You can retrieve it later with some pliers but try not to drop it in the first place. Be careful that the oil is not too hot as scalding can occur. Also have a rag handy so you want wipe your hands and any spills ASAP. Avoid prolonged contact with engine oil. (You'd know this if you read the warning on the side of the oil container.) Step 4 Whilst the oil is draining, you can turn your attention to the oil filter. There are two types fitted to Astra engines canister and cartridge and both are dealt with differently. Canisters are mounted horizontally and can be either on the front or back of the engine depending on which one youve got. Cartridges fit vertically inside a holder which is covered by a plastic (or metal) cap, and are found on the front of the engine.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

Canister

Cartridge

Locate and remove the oil filter. If the filter is too tight, then there are various tools that can help remove. Otherwise a big screwdriver stuck through the side of the filter will help lever the filter out. Be prepared for some oil running out so have a rag handy

Locate the filter cap and using a 32mm socket, unscrew the cap and lift it clear of the engine the filter will be attached to the cap.

Remove the old filter, and insert the new one making sure it fitted the correct way round it will click into place. WARNING: Be careful of the exhaust that is to the left of the picture. Severe scalding can occur if the exhaust manifold is not cool enough. Refit to the engine and tighten the cap to 15nm/11lbf ft and wipe any spilt oil from the block
Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

Before putting the oil filter on, wipe some new engine oil over the rubber seal and thread of the new filter. Refit the new filter and do not over tighten (15nm/11lbf ft), or it will be difficult to remove next time hand tight will suffice Finally wipe any spilt oil from the block, sump and exhaust. Step 5 Remove the old sealing ring from the sump plug and fit a new one. Then give it a wipe with clean engine oil to lubricate it. Wipe down the sump drain hole, refit the plug and tighten to.. 8v engines steel sump alloy sump 55nm or 41 lbf ft 45nm or 33 lbf ft

16v engines 1.4, 1.6 & 1.8 engines rubber seal 14nm or 10lbf ft metal seal 45nm or 33lbf ft 2.0 engine 10nm or 7lbf ft 2.2 engine 25nm or 18lbf ft The above are for Mk4 petrol engine so check the setting if you have a different Mk and/or engine Step 6 Refill the engine with new oil using a funnel makes it much easier and lessens the chance of spills Generally stop at around 4 litres and then check the levels using the dipstick. Make sure you give it time for the oil to get to the sump. This picture shows that it isn't quite enough yet. After it is up to the max mark, run the engine for about 5 seconds so that the oil filter fills up. Pour more oil if necessary so that the oil is at the max mark on the dipstick.
Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

Finally Please dispose of the old oil responsibly - Your Local Council will be able to advise you of recycling centres that will accept it from you free of charge It's advisable to degrease the areas that have spilt oil on them such as the sump and block Otherwise you'll just get this burning oil smell as well as smoke for a day or two as the oil burns off. Go for a short drive and check the levels again after letting the oil run back down to the sump. Do this on level ground Do a final check on oil leaks. If it's still at the full mark, then you are done. Pack up and enjoy!

Thanks to Smelly Tofu and Ffoeg for the How To

How To.. Paint Plastic Trim


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Things you'll need White Spirit Wet & dry abrasive paper (240 & 600 for flatting the plastic, 800 for smoothing the primer and 1200/1600 for flatting the lacquer.) Paint - Halfords primer/filler, plastic primer, colour coat, and clear lacquer. NOTE: You must make sure that you DO NOT touch any part of the cleaned, primed, or painted surfaces with your fingers, as the grease from you fingers will cause the paint to react and peel. Its a good idea to wipe over the part with white spirit, at the beginning of every stage to make sure that it is completely grease and dust free. Step 1 Remove the part(s) that you want to paint. Step 2 Wipe over the whole area with white spirit before you start using the wet & dry. You need to key the surface with the 600 & 240 W&D, use warm soapy water, and work all of the area that needs painting with the W&D. This will get rid of any silicone residue and key the surface so the primer will adhere to the plastic. You will know when its right as the plastic wont have the grain left and it will feel really smooth. Step 3 Next you need to ensure that the panel is completely dry, or the primer will not stick. Use paper towel or something similar to wipe over the whole panel. Leave the part(s) it in a warm room for a while, just to make sure its completely dry. Step 4 Get your primer and shake it well for a couple of minutes. Then apply the primer to the part, using light coats only. Don't do like I did and cover it in one go as you'll muck it up and have to start again. Apply lots of thin coats every 10 - 15 minutes - don't be tempted to save time by putting thick coats on. Step 5 Continue spraying until the whole panel is evenly covered. You should have a few coats of primer on by now. Wait for it to completely dry preferably by placing it a room with a heater on.

Thanks to T520 SRI for the How To

Step 6 Using the 800 W&D, and soapy water, very lightly smooth out the primer, don't rub too hard, as you will take the primer off the plastic and you will have to reapply it again. All you need to do is smooth out the primer. Look for any pin holes in the primer. This is the basic foundation to getting the paint looking professional, so its worth spending time making sure its right. Make sure everything is wiped dry and dust free when its smooth. Step 7 Grab your selected colour, and shake it for a couple of minutes. Then apply the paint slowly in thin coats. Its best to build up the colour gradually. It wont look much for the first couple of coats but then it will start looking good. Allow 10 minutes between coats. Step 8 With the final coats of colour applied, leave to dry for at least an hour, preferably in the sun outside (once the surface is touch dry). Once its completely dry, carefully check over it to make sure you have covered it all with paint. Make sure you check carefully as you don't want to get it in the car to find you have missed a small area. So take time make sure everything is covered thoroughly. Step 9 Once you are happy with the coverage of the paint, the next step is the lacquer. Same as with the painting: shake well, thin layers, building it up so that it covers the whole panel. The more you apply the better the final finish will be, but don't drown it though!! Step 10 Leave to dry completely; preferably overnight. It takes a lot longer than the paint to dry as its a lot thicker. Make sure its rock hard before the next step. Step 11 Use the 1200/1600 grit W&D to smooth the lacquer using copious soapy water. But I found that it scratched the lacquer - although its not supposed to. So whether you do this is up to you, I didn't and mine looks fine. Instead of rubbing the lacquer with the 1200 W&D I got a bottle of T-Cut and polished up all the bits. If everything has gone to plan then you can put a big smile on your face as you look forward to putting the bits back into you car. Footnote - The only problem I can say I had was with the main centre console as the paint and primer kept bubbling this is due to a very thin rubberised coating over the panel reacting with the solvent in the paint. This happens where the sanding has perforated the coating and the solvent has gotten underneath. So in this case the best option is to only very lightly sand the panel, degrease thoroughly and apply primer/filler build up a several coats and then using (wet) 800W&D sand the surface until it is perfectly smooth. Dont worry if it goes back to bare plastic, just let it dry and do a few more coats. Once perfectly smooth continue from no.4 (above) with the primer coat.

Thanks to T520 SRI for the How To

How To.. Change Spark Plugs


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Note - This How To uses a Z22SE, but the process is similar for all other petrol engines. Step 1 Remove the engine cover its simply held on by a few screws or just pulls off, (you might need to remove the oil filler cap first).

Step 2 Unclip the loom from the coil pack you might need to use a small screw driver to depress the retaining clip. Keep the clip somewhere safe, until you need to refit it!!

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 3 Now remove the securing bolts on the coil pack (circled red).

Step 4 Then working from both ends at the same time, carefully waggle and pull the coil pack out of the cylinder head and away from the engine. Once removed, place the coil pack somewhere safe.

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 5 Using a plug socket and extension bar, unscrew and remove all 4 spark plugs. Note - A plug socket will have a rubber retainer to grip the plug so it can be withdrawn easily, whereas a deep socket will not so its best to use the right one!

Step 6 Push the new spark plug into the socket, so that its gripped by the retainer, and then carefully lower it into the cylinder head. Then screw it up hand tight do not use a ratchet handle. Note - Be very careful not to crossthread the plugs when you screw it in, as aluminium heads can be easily damaged. Finally, using a torque wrench, tighten to 25Nm (18 lbf ft) no tighter!! With all 4 plugs replaced (and tightened), refit the coil pack tightening the retaining bolts to 8Nm (6 lbf ft) Then refit the electrical connector (and retaining clip), and finally the engine cover and oil cap

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

How To.. Change the Pollen filter


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Excessive misting of the front windscreen, and/or a musty stench is normally due to a clogged pollen filter however its a simple job to replace it Parts Parts Required Astra Mk4 Pollen Filter Part No: 13175553 (previously 90520689) Tools required T20 Torx bit/Screw driver 6mm Socket Time taken: 30 minutes. Step 1 To start with you will need to remove your glovebox: there are six T20 Torx screws to be removed: 3 along the top edge and 3 along the bottom The 6th Torx screw is in the centre of bottom edge of the glovebox - its easier to undo the bottom 3 screws with the glovebox lid closed. With all the screws removed, pull the glovebox out slightly and disconnect the interior light and CD changer (if you have one) - remember to have the code handy for the CD, for when you come to refit it

Thanks to Alfa GTV for the How To

Step 2 With the glovebox out of the way, look into the glovebox area and you will see two gold coloured bolts on the right hand side: these will both have to be removed using a 6mm socket to gain access to the pollen filter.

Once the bolts have been removed the area in yellow lifts up almost like a cat flap (or it can be unclipped) and remove the old filter noting which way round it is fitted.

Thanks to Alfa GTV for the How To

Step 3 Then re-fit the new filter - the correct way round!! Once the new pollen filter is installed, close/refit the flap put the both bolts back in their position Then refit the glovebox remembering to re-connect the interior light, and recode the CD changer (if fitted) Job done!

Thanks to Alfa GTV for the How To

How To.. Replace the Power Sounder


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. The power sounder can either be replaced or repaired the choice is down to the individual. Repair instructions are given at the end of this How To Step 1 Jack up the front near side, support on axle stands and remove the road wheel. Step 2 Remove the three plastic rivets on the rear of the wheel arch liner (circled red on photo to right) you do this buy pushing the center pin inwards using a small screwdriver, until they pass right through. Be sure to retrieve the pins as these will need to be replaced when refitting the rivets

Step 3 Fold back the arch liner and tuck it over the brake disc (as shown) to allow easier access. From this point onwards you must have you ignition TURNED ON.

Thanks to coupe-turbo for the How To

Step 4 Inside the wheel are you will now see two T20 Torx screws removed these and withdraw the plate from the wheel arch.

Step 4 Disconnect and remove the old unit and install and connect the new one - as you do this you should hear a single beep. Step 5 Refit the panel and replace the 2 torx screws, Refit the inner arch, followed by the 3 plastic clips: which look like this when you put the middle back in

Refit wheel, lower the car off of the jack and tighten the wheel nuts to 110Nm (81lbf ft).

Thanks to coupe-turbo for the How To

Repairing the power sounder Parts Needed 2 x NC-M120 (3.6v) batteries for approx 11 delivered, from www.cellpacksolutions.com Step a Follow steps 1 to 4 above to remove the unit Step b The power sounder has a joint line all the way round it, use a thin-bladed knife to score this deeper and hey-presto, it opens up. Step c Get some sandpaper to remove corrosion etc from the terminals. Fit in new batteries and then simply re-seal power sounder with insulation tape, a glue gun or adhesive. Making sure it is fully watertight Step d Refit as per steps 4-5.

Thanks to coupe-turbo for the How To

Pre-cat on a 2.2 (Z22SE) How To.. Remove the Pre


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do this Mod? The pre-cat is only there to control emissions on start-up from cold, until the main cat gets up to working temperature, after which time the main cat does all the emission control work and the precat just becomes a needless restriction. The MOT emission test must be done with the car at normal operating temperature so removal of the pre-cat will not cause the car to fail the test, nor will it render it illegal Step 1 - Removing the heat shield Working from inside the engine bay, remove the engine cover to gain access to the back of the engine (exhaust manifold). Using a 10mm spanner, undo the three bolts that hold the lower heat shield onto the manifold as shown in the diagram (circled blue). Once all three are out, gently remove the heat shield from the retaining clip (circled red). Step 2 - Jack the front of the car up and place securely on axle stands or ramps. Remove ignition key UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RE-INSERT THE IGNITION KEY UNTIL THE JOB IS FINISHED.

Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 3 - Removing the cat assembly Working under the car and using a socket and extension bars undo the three nuts securing the down-pipe to the manifold. Using an open ended spanner, carefully remove the 2 oxygen sensors one in front of the main cat and one behind. These will probably be rusted tight, but with a soaking in WD40 and gentle persuasion with a mallet on the end of the spanner they should come undone. Once out, just let them dangle, but be careful not to damage them.

Remove bolt on the clamp between the cat and centre section (shown below) this will probably be rusted tight, so again use plenty of WD40 and a bit of force. You may be lucky and it will come undone relatively easily, but if not, either cut or grind off the bolt and replace with a new one on reassembly. Once off, use a large screw driver to lever open the clamp slightly. Give the exhaust joint a good dousing with WD40, and remove the two rubber hangers on the front of the centre section to allow the cat will now drop down slightly. The cat assembly will be a tight (rusted) fit in the centre section, so a lot a lot of twisting and pulling is required to separate the two parts. Keep dousing, twisting back and forth and pulling and it will eventually come off.
Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

Step 4 Removing the pre-cat Lay the cat assembly down with the pre-cat on the right this is the best position to minimise any debris falling down the pipe and entering (clogging) the main cat. Drill a series of closely spaced 4-6mm holes around the edge of the pre-cat (as shown below). Use the drill on a low speed and it goes through quite easily whereas a fast speed just overheats the bit and blunts it very quickly. Periodically inspect the drill and remove any accumulated debris from the tip with a screwdriver the drill will be very hot, hot so be careful and patient. Once youve completed a full circuit of holes, change to a large drill (6-8mm) bit and re-drill alternate holes, once again ensuring you go straight through the pre-cat - this should break through the sides of the small holes and enable the pre-cat matrix to be removed. However some teasing out of material with long-nose pliers/screwdrivers/chisels may be required Using an old inch wood chisel or similar, carefully scrape away any remaining material from the edge of the pipe, and then finally give it a quick once over with some coarse emery cloth to remove the last of the material (a Dremel and small grinding wheel will speed this stage up). The finished article should look like the photo below clean and smooth. Once all trace of the pre-cat is removed from the end of the pipe, upend the cat assembly and tap/shake firmly to dislodge any material from the pipe. Finally, cover up the front oxygen sensor holes and give the pipe a good vacuuming out to remove all traces of dust and debris repeat the shaking, tapping and vacuuming process until all debris is clear. Step 5 Reassembly is a reverse of the removal process but use some copper grease on the manifold, pipe nuts and cat assembly pipe where it enters the centre section. Check alignment of the exhaust before finally tightening up any of the nuts/bolts. Thats it go for a test drive and feel the difference!!
Thanks to Ffoeg for the How To

How To.. Remove Rear Seats (All) & Panels (3dr & Coupe)
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed T40 Torx bit T50 Torx bit Torque wrench Flat blade screwdriver Step 1 Start by sliding both front seats as far forward as they will go, and then either tilt (3dr/Coupe) or recline the backrest forward (5dr), to give yourself room to operate in the back. Lift the lower rear cushion so it stands vertically. Locate the two metal hoops that hold the seat base to the floor. Doing one side at a time, firmly push the lower edge of the seat towards the rear of the car in the direction of the arrow (shown right). It might take a few goes to get the knack, but once youve mastered it, its a doddle. Unclip the other side and remove the cushion form the car.

Step Two Woking in the rear passenger compartment, unbolt the bracket for the seat belt buckles (T50). The remove the two other bolts holding the brackets down (all T40 & arrowed in red) one locates the bracket to the body shell and the other joins them both together.

Autosparks Thanks to Autos parks for the How To

Step 3 Working from inside the boot, use a flat blade screwdriver to prise out the plastic button bottom outside corner of the seat back. Then carefully fold back the felt trim to reveal two T40 Torx bolts remove both of these. And then lift the bracket up and out of the slot on the inner wheel arch a screwdriver might be useful here to relieve the spring tension on the collar. Do the same on the other side, if youre taking the entire back seat out.

Step tep 4 Finally remove the three T40 Torx bolts from the rear of the centre bracket and carefully lift the backrests from the car. Note: refit in the reverse of the above - but it is best to fit the two outer brackets to the seat backs prior to installation. This way the whole assembly will just drop back into the slots. Re-Torque the seatbelt bracket to 35nm/26lbf ft

Autosparks Thanks to Autos parks for the How To

Removing the Rear Panels With the rear seat removed, simple grab the back edge of the storage bin (as shown) and sharply pull the panel away from the body shell. The panel is held on with standard trim clips (as per doorcards) and simply pops off. Once one edge is lifted, work your way around the panel until all the clips are out and lift the panel away. With the panel off the car, you may find that some clips are still fastened to the body work just carefully prise them out with a screwdriver (taking care not to scratch the paint) and refit the to the panel

When re-fitting the panels start with the edge along the door frame (as shown left), taking care to line up the clips correctly, and then firmly push the card on to the body shell. Work round the panel making sure that all clips are pushed full home.

Autosparks Thanks to Autos parks for the How To

Refurbish damage only) ) How To.. Refurbi sh Painted Alloy Wheels (minor d amage only
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Note: The method used in this how to is for minor kerb damage and poor paint work only 1, Remove tyres from rim, cut of old valve and remove any stick-on or tap-on wheel weights. 2, Clean wheels thoroughly. I used Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner because its cheap. Then wash with really hot soapy water, then rinse thoroughly. Before giving them a quick wipe over with a j-cloth and some clean water. 3. Attack the rim lip with 300grit, rub away any corrosion and feather out using a lighter grade paper. Finish off with 1000 grit. Use filler on any small defects/damage, and sand off smooth when cured Clean again with clear non soapy water and leave to dry. And finally wipe thoroughly with degreaser wipes of white spirit to remove any traces of silicone/oily residue. 4. Spray wheel with 3 or 4 coats of primer. Leave sufficient drying time between coats and leave to dry. Lightly sand the wheel with 1000 grit W&D used wet. Feather it back to leave a smooth surface. Clean and re-apply primer if necessary. Then rub back with 1000 grit.

Thanks to SimonP for the How To

5, Once the wheels are clean once again, you can apply first coat of base coat silver. Spray even light coats as metallic particles weigh paint down, so if you spray it too heavily, it can give the appearance of looking darker in patches. Give around 3 or 4 good coats, making sure all area are evenly covered.

6, Leave to dry for about 30 minutes before going over with the lacquer again using light even strokes. Doesnt matter if its fine and doesnt give a shiny finish as you achieve finish when cutting back. Give it plenty of light coats again with good drying intervals. Leave for about 12 - 24 hours to semi cure before prepping for finishing. Get 1000 or even 1200grit (again, best done wet) and rub very lightly and evenly over the new paintwork in a swirly motion. Dont press too hard, but then again, dont press too lightly. 7, After covering the whole wheel, youre now ready to cut it back using a cutting paste. I used G3 and applied in a similar action to the sanding. Be a bit firmer with the pressure and you can feel the paste working away to smooth off the lacquer even more. Wipe off with clean dry cloth. The paintwork although very flat and matt in appearance is now smooth and flatted back. 8, You can now start with the polish. I just used Autoglym super resin polish. I polished each wheel twice used in quite an abrasive action, but not too much. Buff up and it should leave the

Thanks to SimonP for the How To

paintwork with a glassy finish. If it still looks a little dull, then keep polishing and you'll get a great shine. 9, Leave the wheel for at least 24 hours (from final coat) before having the tyre refitted.

Thanks to SimonP for the How To

Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Thanks To Alan Mk4 for the 'How-To' :

Replacing dash and centre console bulbs for LEDS?


Time needed; allow 4 hours. Tools needed; 8 x LEDs in Osram holders 1 x Single LED without holder, Long nosed pliers, Star head screwdriver, large and small headed screwdriver, and Patience!! 1. Use the small headed screwdriver to remove the small panel in between the gear gaiter and the ashtry.Slide the screwdriver down the side and just lift it out. 2. Open the ashtry, take out the inside sleeve. Remove the lighter surround. It (just clicks out) Next pull down the flap at the top to reveal the 4 screws. Remove these and putt in a safe place. The whole ashtray and surround will now pull out, be careful!! It is attached on the left of the lighter surround and should ease out. It should now be hanging out with the wires attached to the back of the lighter. 3. Disconect both wires. The smaller connection holds the Bulb for the lighter surround, pull it out and replace with the single LED. Make sure you turn on your lights to make sure it works before you continue. 4. Next you must take out any head unit and the cage its in. You will see 2 screws inside the opening that are holding on the centre console, remove these carefully. Make sure they dont drop down! 5. Now is the time to remove the console. Hold on to the bottom and slightly pull it towards you. Get the large headed screwdriver and slide it between the console and the dash just above and to the left of the MFD display.DONT force it in, just try and make a small gap and get it in. As you ease the console upwards try and prise the console away using the screwdriver it should give way and release itself. 6. Disconect the large connector behind the MFD display. It is a held in place with a clip that looks like a mouse trap. You will understand when you come to it : ) 7. You will now see all the wires for the Heater controls and the Hazard light. There is not much room to work here so just take your time.Dissconect the large yellow connector first, press down the small clip on the top and it should release it. Next you will have to remove the wires from there plastic holes in the heater control arms. Use your long nose pliers to un-hook them out of the holes. The wires are inside rubber sleeves which have plastic clips on them, these are clipped into small holders on the console(you will see what I mean when you get there).Take the plastic clips out of there holders and all you should have now is the last small connector and the hazard switch. 8. Disconect the small black connector. The front of the hazard switch should Pop out using the small headed screwdriver. Switch the lights on and prise it off from underneath. Turn it off, the whole connector should now come out with a bit of encouragement. 9. Now you have access the the back of the Centre console!! First you can change the bulbs in the MFD display using the long nose pliers. Take it easy and try not to rush. REMEMBER THE LEDS ONLY WORK ONE WAY!! It is a 50/50 chance of them working the first time. After you put them in reconnect the clock and turn on your lights to make sure they work. If they dont remove the connector tw ist the holder 180 degrees and try again.Taadaaa!!!! This is what all the work is for. Trick lights: )

10. Now change the 2 bulbs in the heater controls. Same as before, plug in the large yellow connector and see if they work. If not twist and they will work.PLEASE make sure you know they are all working before you start putting it all back together. 11. Now is the hard part! Putting it all back together again. First reconnect the MFD display and the Hazard switch. Then the large yellow connector for the Heater controls. This is the tricky bit. Try putting the car into 1st gear and take off the Handbrake , this will help you lie down so you can see the underneath of the console better. Have you long nose pliers ready. Start by the end wires farthest away from you. Using the pliers grab the wires about 1 inch from the end and hook them back into there holes in the plastic arms. You will know which wire goes into which hole as there is not much give in them. One is a wire and one has a barrel shape on the end that just sits in a holder. When you have the wires in the holes the rubber sleeves need to go back in the clips. Put the barrel one into the clip first by sliding it in. Then the other sleeve clips in on top of it. Both clips in the one holder. Next do the other wire and clip its sleeve into the holder. 12. The rest is now a reversal of the removal. Just put the screws, headunit and ashtray back in.

To.. Re-trim Door Cards How T o.. Re


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required. Material (alcantara in this case), Scissors, Spray glue, Newspaper/Brown paper, Old credit cards And lots of patience!!!

Step 1 Cut a template using brown paper or newspaper allowing at least 1 inch around (2.5cm) the edges. Once template has been cut out, lay it on top of your chosen material (alcantara) and cut the material out, see below.

Thanks to Darren SXi 1.8 for the How To

Step 2 Now lay the cut out alcantara on top of the door card and roughly feel around the edges allowing you to centre it up as best as possible, (see below). Note - I have left loads of spare material at the end.

Step 3 Now slowly start to tuck the edges in using a credit/debit card, starting from the top and working down (I found it easier that way - but I would also try from the centre working outwards). Do not use the glue at this stage. stage The main area you should concentrate on is by the grab handle (front door cards the rears are much easier). You will, at this stage, need to remove/ cut away surplus material around the handle area - take your time over this. Once you have a rough idea as to where the material tucks you can start to glue. The advantage of spray glue is that it spreads evenly - you will need to mask all areas where glue is not needed using newspaper. Spray the glue on the door card first, and then a small amount on the material, this allows a good solid bond between the two when they meet.
Thanks to Darren SXi 1.8 for the How To

Once glue is applied, start from the middle of the area and rub towards the edges making sure no creases or folds have been made! The glue is extremely strong and difficult to remove! Step 4 Once all is glued and tucked, look at the door card in natural light and around for any mistakes (you'll get some, don't you worry!), check around edges and by the grab handles. Hopefully it should look something like this

Thanks to Darren SXi 1.8 for the How To

How To.. Remove the Front Strut (MK4)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 Apply handbrake, jack the car up, support on axel stands and remove the road wheel. Unclip the brake hose and any electrical connectors from the bracket on the front side of the strut. Remove the nut holding the roll bar link to the strut use an open ended spanner on the flats on the ball joint to stop it rotating whilst you undo the nut. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the hub and note which way the bolts go. Support the hub on an axle stand, bricks or similar. Step2 With someone holding the strut from underneath, pull the black cap off the top mounting and undo the nut visible underneath. You may need to use a small spanner on the central rod to stop it rotating as you undo the main nut Once the nut is off, the strut will simply lift out from inside the wheel arch.

Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How-To

Replacing the spring Warning - if you don't know what you are doing - STOP. Springs contain a lot of potential energy even in a partially compressed state and can easily injure the unwary. Hold the strut in a vice or similar, just so it is secure not too tight though as it may damage the shock absorber Attach the spring compressors to opposite sides of the spring try to get the hooks as near to the ends of the spring as possible. Slowly compress each side, a bit at a time (try to keep them even) until the spring becomes loose in the strut - i.e. you can jiggle it freely). Using a deep socket 18mm (or spanner), undo the nut that holds the top hat again you may have to resort to a spanner on the piston rod end to stop it rotating. The bolt is reasonably tight, so it may take some persuading. Remove the top hat and all the rubbers on the existing strut noting the relative positions of all the parts and then carefully lift away the spring. Remove the old strut off the vice. Place the new strut in the vice and replace all rubbers and spring (still in the compressors) onto the new strut. If replacing the spring, this will need to be compressed before fitting, and ensure it is fitted the correct way round. Replace the top mount and tighten the nut to the specified torque (see below) Make sure the spring is in correct position by checking that the base of the spring fits against the marking on the strut, and that the top mount aligns correctly. Carefully undo the spring compressors little by little on each side to keep it even. Reverse the removal instruction to refit the strut to the car. Torque Wrench Settings Anti- roll bar link to strut Strut upper mountings Strut to hub carrier Stage1 Stage2 Stage3 Stage4 Road wheels 65Nm 55Nm 48lbf ft 41lbf ft

50Nm 37lbf ft 90Nm 66lbf ft angle-tighten 45 angle-tighten 15 110Nm 81lbf ft


Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How-To

How To.. Replace Rear Shock absorbers


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 Note: Because of the design of the rear suspension, you should ONLY do one side at a time Loosen wheels bolts with the car on a firm level surface Chock the front wheels, jack the car up and support on axle stands. Remove the wheels.

Step 2 Notice the 2 nuts that need to be removed -The top nut is 15mm and the bottom nut is 17mm, however on some cars these bolts are E18 and E20 male Torx blots respectively. Place a small jack under the trailing arm and raise it slightly (10-20mm is enough) to avoid any undue strain in the trailing arm Undo the bottom nut holding the shocks first, and then undo the top nut. Refitting is reversal of removal - but ensure the nuts are tightened to the correct torque Top Nut Bottom Nut Wheel Bolts 90Nm 110Nm 110Nm 66lbf ft 81lbf ft 81lbf ft

Repeat the procedure for the other side.


Thanks to SmellyTofu for the How-To

How To.. Change Side Repeater Lights


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 Carefully ease a small pick/screwdriver between the indicator and the bodywork - insert from the front on a MK4 and the rear on a MK3. (You can unclip it from behind by removing the inner arch liner but that takes too long and is a dirty job). At the rear of the indicator is a clip: you will need to push this in slightly for the indicator lens to pop out. Once the unit it out, it is a good time to clean and polish the area under the old indicator lens.

Thanks to NRJ for the How To

Step 2 On some indicator lenses you will need to change the standard white bulb to an orange emitting bulb, this is because some lenses do not come with the orange diffuser built into the unit. Note: An orange emitting light is required for an MOT pass. Some of the bulb holders pull out of the lens, and some twist out standard VX ones twist out. The standard bulb is a push in type (501) in the holder itself. Once the bulbs are fitted test everything works & progressing to Step 3

Step3 Push/Twist the bulb holder back in the new unit and then clip the unit back into the wing

Make sure the lens clicks securely into place. Job done!!
Thanks to NRJ for the How To

How To.. Fit OE Side Sills


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed Hammer Small punch or Screwdriver Pliers A mate for an extra pair of hands (not essential) Parts Needed 10 x Skirts clips 9174457* or 90560744* 12 x push pin rivets - 90087290 2 x small push pin rivets - 90262367 2 x white clips 90481595 - (For coupe/GSi skirts) *Note - there are two types of Skirt Clips clip on or bolt on respectively, and its impossible to tell which ones youll have until you remove the original skirts. So check first before you buy the wrong ones, as they are not interchangeable. Also all the clips will most probably be destroyed removing the sills so youll need a full set of the above to fit news ones Step 1 I personally jacked the car up as its low and I couldnt see the pins underneath. I put the jack on the jacking point used on the 4-poster lifts so it didnt get in the way of the skirts. Have a look underneath the car and youll notice 6 push pin rivets on the underside of the sill. Push the middle pin up through the sill: you will lose the centre but itll drop out sooner or later when driving. Open the doors to get the lip underneath. Grab the underside edge of the sill, and you can then just pull the skirts off.
Thanks to norm29 for the How To

Step 2 Take the broken clips off noting which way round they are fitted there are little arrows on them to help you. Recover the small white clip from the front end (if fitted) Whilst the sills are off its a good idea to clean all the accumulated dirt off and give the paintwork a wax and polish

Step 3 Refit the plastic clips onto the sill, making sure they are the correct way round. Remove the rubber drip strip from the top edge of old sill (if fitted) and fit it to the new still

Step 4 With the door open, line up the skirt and starting from one end, simply push it on, making sure it clicks into all the clips. Once done, refit all the push pin rivets to the underside (not forgetting the small one in the rear wheel arch) Note - If fitting coupe sills to a hatch, all the push pin rivets are in the same place except for the front cap shown here. You will need to use some araldite or tigerseal glue (or similar) to hold it in place as well as the two small white clips. Easy, will take no more than 30mins both sides :)
Thanks to norm29 for the How To

How To.. Fit Mk3 Stalks to a Mk1


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Needed Firstly you need the indicator stalks and plugs from the Mk3 Astra, and make sure you have plenty of wire spare on the wiper stalk as this will be need to be wired it in. Procedure The plugs have code numbers and letters on the back so fitting is simply a case of matching wire to code. These are as follows: The wiper stalk N.B. Where * appears see below. Code 31 WH 53h 53b W 53 53a 53e J Mk3 stalk Mk1 Loom

Brown wire - this wire is not used (tape out of the way) Black/Grey Black/Yellow White Black/Red Yellow Black/Yellow Blue Black/Yellow Black/Red Blue* White Black/Red* Yellow Black/Yellow Blue Black/Yellow

*In the case of 53h and W on your Mk1 loom, you have two Blue wires and two Black/Red ones as well. Before joining in these wires, check the corresponding code number on your mk1 stalk to make sure the right wire goes to the correct terminal The Indicator Stalk This will just plug straight in! You can even use the original Mk1 plug. The rubber gaiters on the end of the stalks will fit if you modify your lower steering column cowling. Cut at least a 4cm gap out and this will ensure the rubber fits snugly and doesnt cause the cowling to spring open under the pressure of the rubber. Refit the new stalks and put your steering cowling back together and admire!
Thanks to Raz for the How To

Change hange the O Original Wheel heel on the Astra Mk4. How To.. C riginal Vauxhall Steering W
Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools required: Set of male Torx keys or T15 & T30 torx sockets. E20 female torx socket and ratchet or T-Bar. Torque wrench, not totally necessary but safer if used. Loctite thread lock or similar.

Step 1 - Park the car with the steering wheel centred. Leave the key out of the ignition and leave for at least 1 min but to be really safe 15mins. I left mine parked up overnight in the correct position just in case. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RERE-INSERT THE IGNITION KEY UNTIL THE JOB IS FINISHED.

Step 2 - Use the T30 Torx key and remove the 2 Torx screws located under the wheel, at the base of the side spokes. See photo for location.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How-To

Step 3 - Lift up the airbag and disconnect the airbag wiring. There's a little yellow pull on the connector, just pull this out & down and the connector will pull away from the airbag. Remove the airbag; take great care when handling the airbag and keep the badge facing away from you at all times if possible. Put the airbag in a SAFE place with the badge uppermost. Step 4 - Using the E20 socket remove the torx bolt holding the wheel onto the steering column. It's not very tight so little real force is needed. Disconnect the lower multi-plug connector, see photo. Grab wheel and jiggle from side to side whilst pulling upward. It's not usually on very hard and comes off fairly easily. Thread the 2 wiring blocks through the upper square hole as the wheel comes off.

Step 5 - Using the T15 Torx socket remove the 4 screws holding the remote radio controls onto the wheel. Take a second to study the wiring routing before removing the RRC buttons and horn buttons. Assuming you'll either be using an Irmscher wheel or another Vauxhall wheel replace the RRC controls and horn buttons on the new wheel and route the wires so they are as in next photo.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How-To

Step 6 - Refit the new wheel feeding the 2 wiring blocks through the square hole and also ensuring that the indicator cancelling disc, see photo, locates in the square hole above the steering column hole. In photo you can see a small white arrow on the disc which should be pointing at the pip on the steering column shroud. Also make sure the mark on the steering column and the new steering wheel align.

Step 7 - Coat the steering column Torx bolt with thread lock and refit and tighten bolt to 18ft/lbs using a torque wrench. If no wrench is available just make sure it's nice and tight. You may need someone to hold the wheel whilst your tightening the bolt but you can do it single handed if needed. Reconnect the lower multi-plug connector.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How-To

Step 8 - Re-connect the airbag wiring and ensure the locking tag is reinserted in the wiring block. Locate in position and re-insert and tighten the 2 T30 Torx screws located underneath. Provided you've connected all the wiring blocks it should now be safe to reinsert the ignition key. Just in case it's advisable to do this from outside the car Step back and admire your new pride and joy.

Thanks to Oddjob for the How-To

How To.. Fit a Strut Brace (MK4)


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Step 1 First, unclip the fuse box from the retaining brackets and carefully cut off the lug thats on the side facing you, this has to done to allow the fuse box to fit properly. Then gently ease the fuse box forward, (you might have to loosen the positive lead connection on the battery as the cable is quite stiff) so that the rear clip fits into the front of the bracket on the car.

Depending on the make of brace some modification the relay box may be needed to make it fit correctly. However there are numerous ways to do this, and none are applicable in all cases. Step 2 Remove the black plastic caps on the top of the both shock absorbers, undo the nuts and remove the top cups from the suspension struts.

the Thanks to Pete for th e How To

Step 3 Position the strut brace on the car and refit the black cups and tighten up the nuts

Make sure that the front wheels are pointing dead ahead and then mark and carefully drill through the lugs with an 8.5mm drill. Its then best to paint over the bare metal on the inner wing to prevent corrosion.

Step4 Now comes the tricky bit: fitting the bolts. You may be lucky and only have to jack the car up, and remove the wheels to be able to secure the nuts inside the wheel arch. However, if this proves impossible - with the car still jacked up, youll need to remove the top cups again and let the whole suspension drop a few inches. This will give you plenty of room to get a spanner in the gap, from the wheel arch. Once both bolts are tight refit the top cups (and wheel) and lower the car. Do the other side. Torque Wrench settings Strut upper mounting Road wheels 55Nm/41lbf ft 110Nm/81lbf ft
the Thanks to Pete for th e How To

How To.. Clean a Throttle Body


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Note this how to was written for an an X18XE1 engine, but the process is similar for all other engines Why clean it? If your car has trouble idling when pulling up to junction etc then most of the time a dirty/clogged throttle body will be the cause. When to clean it? It is good practice to do this every time you service your car, especially if you do a lot of miles or drive in traffic a lot. Tools: Step 1 With the engine cold, start by removing the negative lead from the battery using the 10mm spanner, (this is good practice for all car engine and electrical work), and remember to remove the ignition key first and do not replace it until the work is finished. Next, remove the engine cover by removing the two T30 Torx Screws holding the top of the engine cover down. Then remove the oil filler cap and pull the engine cover from the rear towards you. Replace the oil filler cap immediately. This gives good access to the throttle body. Flat bladed Screw Driver or 7mm Socket (depending on jubilee clip type) 10mm spanner T30 Torx bit Clean Cloth Carb Cleaner or similar product

Thanks to Pardoe16v for the How To

Step 2 Use the flat bladed screw driver, or 7mm socket, undo the jubilee clip securing the air feed hose to the throttle body.

Step 3 Then remove the air hose from the Throttle body and move it out the way, taking care not to damage the hose or put any strain on the harness to the AFM. If in doubt, unplug the AFM!! Now you can get at the inside of the throttle body - As you can see they get very messy!!! When the engine is on tick over, air is drawn in through a small gap at the edge of the butterfly valve (the brass circle). If the small gap becomes blocked by build up of carbon and dirt etc then the engine cant breathe on tick over, so it tries to stall!

Thanks to Pardoe16v for the How To

Step 4 Using the carb cleaner and a clean lint-free rag, carefully clean all the mess out, pull open the butterfly very gently - especially ones which are drive-by -wire as this works via an electric motor. Press down the side nearest to you and pull up the side furthest from you as shown below. Clean in and around the throttle body and the rim of the butterfly. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUSH ANY DIRT DOWN INTO THE MANIFOLD! If the Throttle Body is particularly dirty, it is advisable to remove it and clean it off the car

When youve finished it should look nice and clean like this! Reassemble the air hose feed and engine cover. Reconnect the battery, and reprogram any radio codes/clock etc You should notice straight away the throttle response.

Thanks to Pardoe16v for the How To

How To.. Fit a Traction Control Switch


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. You must have Traction Control fitted as standard to undertake this mod It will not add it to a car not t already have TC. that does no TC. Parts Required Traction Control Switch - 90437527 Traction Control Switch Loom - 9270597 Trim Panel (Black) - 90437593 (single hole) Trim Panel (Gun Metal Grey) -13129777 (single hole)

or 90437561 (three hole) or 13129779 (three hole)

Step one Remove the ashtray - will need to use torx bits and remove the 2 screws holding ashtray in. Then remove small cover around cigarette lighter (it just pulls off). The ashtray isnt the easiest thing to get out, but do it carefully and youll be fine. Disconnect the wires on the rear of the lighter. With the ashtray out of the way, you can now get your fingers round the back of the blank TC panel and pop it out. Now remove the panel above the pedals there are two -turn clips on the front edge and two white lever down clips on the rear. Step 2 Open the bonnet. Position yourself so that you can look up inside the back of the dash and locate the spare grommet that the TC loom feeds through. (See photo right). When youve found it - remove it using your finger or a screw driver. Now route the loom from the back of the TC panel area, through the back of the centre console, through the area above the pedals and feed it out through the grommet hole and into the engine bay. making sure its tidy and doesnt catch on anything.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To

Its easier to carefully pull the loom through from the engine bay side. When its pulled through sufficiently, fit the grommet into the hole, ensuring it seals correctly all the way round. Step 3 Remove the cover from the relay box, and using a screwdriver to depress the clips (see below), carefully unfasten all the relays and lift the loom out and tuck it safely out of the way.

From this point onwards remove the keys from the ignition and do not attempt to switch on any electrics or start the car or you will need a trip to a dealer!!! Next, you need to remove the relay box to gain access to the multi-connector underneath. There one clip to depress on each side of the box. The photo (right) show the box removed from the car to aid in finding their location. Just use a screwdriver against the bump on each side and carefully lever the box out of the bracket.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To

Step 4 Locate the ABS multi-connector under the relay box bracket, and using a flat blade screwdriver push inwards on the purple lines you see on the drivers side of the ABS plug itself. You dont have to force it, as it moves fairly easy: but do both sides evenly. Once it is pushed through a little, feel for the handle on the plug, sticking out under the wiring - slide it out and then plug will lift off easily Remove the weather cover from the top of the plug; its also best to remove the cable tie from the loom at this point. Step 4 Locate the correct pin, depending on your car. Traction control only use Pin 31 or Traction control and EPS use in 25 Pin 31 is located at the back corner (drivers side) if there is a wire there already, youll have to splice the TC loom into that wire. Its best to use a soldered connection and protect it with heat shrink tubing and insulation tape. Assuming there is no wire there already (the majority of cases), use a stout pin or similar to carefully ease out the white blanking plug.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To

Step 4 Route the TC loom across the back of the engine bay, using zip ties to attach it to the bonnet release cable. Then push the pin connector on the loom into the relevant hole on the multi-connector. It requires quite a bit of force to push it home so be careful not to damage it. Once thats secure, refit the weather cover, and zip tie to the ABS loom, and refit the multiconnector, by sliding the purple catch back in. Refit the relay box to the bracket, reinstall the relays and refit the lid. Step 5 Now take the other wire on the loom (ring connector) and attach it to the earth point on the passenger side inner wing. Its best to give all mating surfaces a quick clean up with some fine wet & dry (used dry) to make sure you get a good connection. When thats done, you can close the bonnet and move back inside the car.

Step 6 Splice the short grey wire (on the TC loom) into the grey/yellow wire on the cigarette lighter loom, using a connector of your choice be it crimp, solder or chocolate block (as in the photo). This will light the switch up with the headlights/dash lights. Once thats done, fit the switch to the TC panel, and connect the loom plug to the back.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To

You can now test it all works switch the ignition on and wait for the lights on the dash to go out. Press the TC switch When the warning light comes ON under the trip meter reset button, then traction control is now switched OFF. Pressing the button again will switch TC back ON (and the light OFF). Assuming all is OK refit the TC panel to the centre console, and then put back the ashtray (remembering to connect up the cigarette lighter in the process), and the under-dash panel.

Thanks to Smelly Tofu, Lightning Coupe & gazza1591 for the How To

How To.. Fit 5 Screen in a Sat Nav Console


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts Required Any of the following Sat Nav centre Consoles. I used the matt chrome one. Sat Nav centre console in matt chrome - 13117931 - 13.10 Sat Nav centre console in black - 9229371 - 45.47 Sat Nav centre console in gunmetal - 9196588 - 98.11 5 TFT Colour Portable TV (Maplins) - code L69AU - 79.99

Step 1 - Preparing the console Remove the bracket from the back of the console - I used a soldering iron to melt the 4 spot welds whilst lifting the bracket.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

Once removed, file down the fixings so that they are level. Remove the 2 foam pads as they will stop the screen fitting flush.

Cut the bracket which has been removed as it will be re-fixed in the next step. It doesnt need to be too neat.

Re-fix the bracket to the centre console using superglue or hot glue. The 2 cut-outs in the centre of the bracket will act as a guide. This will act as a support to the screen when it is fixed later.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

Step 2 - Preparing the TFT Screen Remove all the screws from the back of the screen and pull the aerial out. Carefully remove the rear of the case. Remove the 2 wires which are connected to the back.

Lift the green circuit board slightly. Remove the following Unplug the connector from the buttons to the circuit board. Unplug the connector from the screen to the circuit board. Remove the ribbon connector between the screen & circuit board. Push the brown retaining bar up to do this. De-solder the black earth cable between the screen & circuit board. Cut the black & red cables which go to the speaker.

Remove the 2 brackets which hold the screen into the case. The screen module can now be removed from the case.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

The IR receiver needs to be moved so that the screen can be used with the remote control. This is critical as I will not be using the original buttons.

Step 3 - Fitting the TFT Screen You need to decide where you want to place your IR receiver. I located mine to the top left of the screen as in the photo below.

Place a cardboard packer on the support frame; this will help align the screen at the bottom. With this in place the screen can be lined up horizontally with the hole at the front of the console. Once happy, glue the screen into place.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

Glue the IR receiver into place using some hot glue.

The circuit board can now be plugged back in. Plug in the cables in the following order: 1. The ribbon cable - Push the brown bar up so the ribbon can fit in easily, and then pull the bar down to hold it. 2. The white & pink cables with the white plug on the left hand side. 3. Re-solder the short black earth cable which was removed earlier. It should now look like this. The outer case needs trimming down to enable it to fit at the back of the console.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

Fit the case over the circuit board and glue into place.

It's now ready for fitting into the car.

Thanks to Pecky for the How To

How To.. Fit Total Closure to an Astra G


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Parts/tools needed Total Closure Module Screwdrivers T20 Torx & Small Flathead Soldering Iron & Solder Wire Strippers Insulating Tape Sharp Knife 10mm spanner/socket

Cost: Approx 10 unit available off eBay (various sellers) Can you fit Total Closure? These units can only be fitted if, when locking the car turn the key towards the back of the car then hold the key in that position for approximately five seconds and the windows go up. If not then this kit cant be fitted. Step 1: To remove the kick panel, prise out the cap as shown (right) and remove the screw by using a T20 Torx driver, and gently pull back the door seal in the area of the panel. The next bit requires patience, as the kick panel is quite fiddly to remove - some people remove the bonnet release catch to make things easier: however I managed to remove the panel without.

Thanks to dodger for the How To

Once the panel is removed you should see the Central Locking and Electric Window Module. Step 2 Looking at the Central Locking module there is a 24pin connector on the left and a 12pin on the right. Within the 24pin connector there should be a BLUE wire with a BLACK Stripe - this the Deadlocking activation wire. Connect the BLUE to this wire.

BLUE Wire with BLACK

24pin Plug

12pin Plug

Step 3 On the same connector there should be a BROWN wire with a BLACK stripe or a YELLOW wire with a RED Stripe, depending on what model and year you car is. This is the wire that when activated closes the electric windows. The position of the appropriate wire is shown in the photo (right).

Brown wire connects here

Thanks to dodger for the How To

Step 4 Connect the RED power lead to the large RED Wire that goes to the 12pin plug as shown in the diagram below. As with all the connections I opted not to use the Scotch Blocks as this type of connection can be unreliable, so I striped the sheath on the wire and soldered the closure wires to them. As shown with the power lead (right). Cover all joints with insulating tape.

Red Power Lead

Step 5 Connect the Black earth lead to the earth stud (Shown right)

Earth Stud

Step 6 Now open the windows, step out of the car and shut the door, press the remote control to lock and alarm then within 10 seconds press the lock button to deadlock and after 2 seconds the windows should start to close. If it all works, give every thing a final once over, tuck the total closure module safely out of the way, then replace the kick panel and drivers door seal. Job Done.

Thanks to dodger for the How To

How To.. Fit a Vectra C Inlet Pipe


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do This Mod? The standard inlet cross section is quite small and restrictive to airflow entering the air box. This mod replaces the pipe with a larger one off a Vectra C diesel, which will increase airflow and make the engine more responsive, and may liberate a few BHP in the process especially when done in conjunction with an aftermarket panel filter, and a de-restricted airbox (see other Astra-Sport How Tos for further information) Part numbers. Main Pipe Adaptor to Airbox 9177099 9177104

Tools required An adjustable spanner. Junior Hacksaw. No.20 Torx bit (star shaped) Flat bladed screwdriver. A couple of small self tapping screws (plus a small drill) Step 1 Before removing anything off of your car, remove both mounting brackets from the top of the Vectra C inlet, using a junior hacksaw. Try and cut as close as possible to the pipe, without damaging it leave a stub of a few millimeters, parallel to the top surface of the pipe Step 2 Unbolt one of the jubilee clips holding the air pipe and un-clip all the clips/screws holding the air box together. Then unclip the sensor at the back of the air box, and any pipes attached to the side. This allows you to lift off the top of the air box up, out of the way. Then by pulling forward the lower half of the air box it comes away from its mountings. Remove from car.
Thanks to Keif for the How To

Step 3 Remove both torx screws from the slam panel and unclip the 2 clips holding in your standard inlet pipe Using a large flat bladed screw driver, inserted between the underside of the slam panel and the top of the standard pipe, prise the mounting clips off the original inlet pipe. This can be a bit fiddle, but with a bit of force the will come off. Remove the standard pipe from the car. This can be difficult, especially on the 2.2, as there is very little room behind the radiator. Removing the offside headlight greatly improves the available space. Step 4 Offer up the Vectra C pipe into the correct position. Then slide it over towards your battery. Fit the adaptor tubing to the inlet pipe and twist it (just under 90degs) towards you so that the "lug" is nearer the front of the car. This is necessary due to the difference in layout between the Vectra and Astra. It is wise but not essential to secure the two parts together with a zip tie, once the installation is complete

Step 5 Refit the lower half of your air box, and locating the inlet pipe the inlet hole. This is very fiddly but with patience it will fit! Hold the pipe in the correct position under the slam panel and drill a small hole into the pipe using the original hole as a guide and fit a self tapping screw. Then repeat for the other small hole. Give everything a check over to ensure everything is secure, and refit the top of the air box, remembering to refit any hoses or sensors.

Thanks to Keif for the How To

How To.. Remove Side Heater Vents and Headlight Switch


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed: T15 Torx screwdriver 3 small flat-blade screwdrivers. The Nearside vent. 1. Adjust the vent so its facing at its lowest point

2. Using a thin screwdriver, inserted down the side of the vent, carefully prise the vent from the sides to help free it

3. You will see it come loose and should be able to pull it out of the housing.

Thanks to d dave for the How To

4. Now you will be able to see 2 torx screws: undo them - being careful not to drop them down the heater duct. 5. Once theyre undone, you need to remove the glove box by undoing the 6 torx screws (3 on the top edge and 3 on the bottom) or you could just undo the top 3 and angle it forward so you could get to the final torx screw for the vent surround. 6. Once all three are undone, the vent surround will lift out easily. The Offside Vent Vent and Headlight Switch 1. Follow steps 1-3 from above to remove the vent.

2. Turn the light switch on to the 1st notch (sidelights) then pull it out so the interior light comes on.

Thanks to d dave for the How To

3. Using a thin screwdriver, insert it in the hole at the bottom of the switch and push up on it to release the knob

4. Now that the switch is out of the way, you should see a metal prong on either side of where the knob was.

5. Using 2 small flat ended screwdrivers, insert them into the prongs to release the control unit. At this stage use another screwdriver to carefully help persuade the unit to slide out

Thanks to d dave for the How To

13. Once the unit is out you can undo the 3 torx screws holding the surround in place. 14. Carefully remove this surround and release the wiring from the rear of the surround for the lighting control unit: it should just slide off. Refitting is just the reverse.

Thanks to d dave for the How To

How To.. WhiteLine Anti-Roll Bar (MK4)


Astra Owners Club Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra Owners Club take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do anything, leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Tools needed 13mm (long Reach) 14mm & 18mm sockets 15mm & 18mm spanner 10mm drill Torque Wrench Grease

Step 1 - Installing rear brackets The brackets fit on to the bolt that holds the trailing arm on to the chassis. You'll probably need to soak the nut with WD40 or penetrating oil, as it'll be seized up solid. Remove nut and install bracket as per picture. These should be as level as possible. When happy, re-torque the nut to 90nm (66lbf ft), then a further 60, then finally a further 15 Note: only ever tighten the axel nuts with the car at normal ride height doing so with the car jacked up (i.e. suspension hanging) will alter the relationship between the body shell and axel and put unnecessary strain in the rubber bush!!

Thanks to ZS and Oddjob for the How To

Step 2 - Install Spring Brackets This is where you're supposed to remove wheels, dampers and springs. You might not need to do this, depending on the tools to hand Drill out the holes in the spring turret from below. I used an 8mm drill, then a 9mm drill, then a 10mm drill, only due to the 10mm drill bit being blunter than a blunt thing. I prefer drilling in small stages anyway, as it makes a neater hole. At this point you may need to jack the car up one side at a time using either a trolley jack or standard jack using the standard rear jacking point. Otherwise the long 10mm bolt won't fit down through the hole as the rubber bump stop is in the way. Jacking one side at a time allows the bolt to drop in freely. Bolt bottom bracket on as shown - it'll only go on one way. Use one of the two massive washers on top of the spring turret, as shown. Step3. Fit the ARB to rear brackets Grease the polybush, and while a willing (willingness optional) helper holds the bar up, bolt on to the rear brackets. It's not important to line things up at this point, as the grease will allow easy sideways movement. Ensure the bend of the bar follows the contour of the trailing arm; otherwise you'll have to turn the bar around (on mine the Whiteline label on the bar ended up upside down). Don't tighten the brackets at this point - it's best to finish the other end first.
Thanks to ZS and Oddjob for the How To

Step 4 - Attach the Figure-of-8 Hangars This bit is dead simple - just align the bar so it's centred, and loosely attach one end as shown in the photo. If youve got the adjustable version: the rearmost hole will make the bar is softer in operation, and foremost hole makes the bar even stiffer. Don't tighten the first end! Attach the other side, and tighten both sides evenly so everything settles in centred. Finally, grease the bushes so they don't creak.

Step5 - Tighten Rear Brackets Tighten rear brackets, and make sure nothing fouls any parts below the car. Be especially wary of the driver's side bracket in relation to the fuel tank! Step6 - Check Everything is Tight Go round again and make sure everything is torqued up nice and tight. Finally, take for a test drive - I used a suitably twisty back road round the back of nearby government buildings. The car now corners flat, doesn't jitter about at the rear as it did, and doesn't rock and roll as it would tend to do on straight roads before. Well worth the money spent.

Thanks to ZS and Oddjob for the How To

How To.. Fit a Z22SE Airbox on a Z20LET


Astra-Sport Disclaimer - Please note that this is a guide only and Astra-Sport take NO responsibility for any damaged caused to yourself or vehicle whilst using this guide. If you are unsure how to do something leave it to the professionals. Your Insurance and warranty might be invalidated if this modification is done. Why do this mod? More direct route to the turbo, thus decreasing pressure loss in the inlet and theoretically increasing power. The shorter route increases noise from the turbo making the dump valve more audible. (This is possibly why Vauxhall did not choose this arrangement as standard). The extra noise may or may not be desirable. Less heat soak due to removal of the metal crossover pipe. Theoretically increasing power. Easier to change spark plugs as they are no long obstructed. Tidies up the engine bay.

This mod can be done by either using Samco silicone hoses or standard Z20 LET pipes Procedure - Using Samco Hoses Parts required 2.2 Airbox Part Number 9129077, this comes complete with everything you need to fit including a new standard air filter. Retail 48.95 + VAT Silicon hose - AFM to Turbo. 70mm reducing to 63mm through 90 degrees. Samco pt no. RE90.70.63. 19.50+vat. Silicon hose - Airbox to AFM. 70mm to 70mm through 45 degrees. Samco pt no. E45.70. 22.50+vat. Pipercross crank case breather filter pt no. C9025. 19.23+vat. 1m 20mm ID crank case breather pipe.

(Samco hoses can be ordered from Merlin Motorsport on 01249 782101). Prices are correct at time of writing.
Thanks to MattS & Mike Warner for the How To

Note - Both silicone pipes will need cutting down to suit. The easiest way is by eye, i.e. holding them over the components and marking them up. To cut a straight line, fit a jubilee clip over the pipe and cut along the edge of the clip. 1. Remove the following parts - 2.0 Air Box, Cross over pipe, AMM and all hoses as far as the turbo inlet. Cover the turbo inlet with a cloth to stop anything from falling into it. 2. Fit the 2.2 Airbox - it sits directly onto your existing mountings, taking no more than 5 minutes. However it is worthwhile de-restricting the airbox before it is fitted. 3. Loosely fit the 45 degree hose between the airbox and the AFM, making sure that the AFM is fitted the correct way round and aligned as in the photograph (right). 4. Loosely fit the 90 degree hose between the AFM and airbox 5. Using the other 90degree hose, place the thinner end onto the turbo inlet and the other to the AFM 6. Once youre happy that everything is lined up correctly, refit your existing jubilee clips and tighten. 7. The AFM wiring will no longer reach the AFM, so this will need to be extended. If you are lucky, your loom may have excess wiring inside the loom tray at the rear of the engine. To check, remove the top of the loom tray along the rear of the cam cover and locate the AFM part of the loom. If there is enough slack to reach the AFM, make a new exit from the loom tray approx 1" from the end and make the existing loom exit here. This should give you enough length of cable to plug straight in. Alternatively, you can simply cut the loom and extend it. Make sure you do one wire at a time so that you eliminate the risk of connecting the wrong wires together, cover all new wiring in black insulating tape. Try and route the wires away from moving and hot parts.

Thanks to MattS & Mike Warner for the How To

8. From the back of the cam cover, fit the new breather hose to the breather outlet and at the other end of the hose, fit the Pipercross crankcase filter. This can be positioned wherever you wish the photo right shows a neat suggested location. Once complete, give the car a test drive. You should notice an increased in induction, turbo spool and dump valve noise. You may also notice that turbo spool-up is quicker and an increase of power. Please note: note: that at the time of writing, we are unsure if venting the crank case fumes to atmosphere would be an MOT failure. If it is, it may be necessary to revert back to standard for your MOT. This is not a problem as it would take no more than 10mins to revert back just keep all the old bits somewhere safe. Procedure Procedure using standard Z20let pipes Parts Required 2.2 Airbox Part Number 9129077, this comes complete with everything you need to fit including a new standard air filter. Retail 48.95 + VAT Pipercross crank case breather filter pt no. C9025. 19.23+vat. 1m 20mm ID crank case breather pipe

1. Remove the following parts - 2.0 Airbox, Cross-over pipe, AFM all hoses as far as the turbo. 2. Fit the 2.2 Airbox, as detailed above. 3. Locate the 45 hose, (originally fitted between the 2.0 airbox and AFM) onto the new airbox. As the outlet of the new air box is slight smaller than the old one, you will need to make a small V shaped cut on the bottom lip of the pipe to ensure it clamps up correctly.
Thanks to MattS & Mike Warner for the How To

4. Insert the AFM - making sure that it is fitted the correct way round and aligned as in the photograph (page1). 5. Using the other 90 hose, place the longer section on the turbo inlet and the other to the AFM 6. Once youre satisfied that it is all lined up correctly, tighten the jubilee clips. 7. Refer to step 7 above for details of modify in the AFM harness. 8. Refer to step 8 above for details of routing the new breather pipe.

Thanks to MattS & Mike Warner for the How To