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CLARKSON POTTER

CONTENTS
Part I: Flavor as Inspiration
Varieties in the GardenRecipes for the Kitchen

My Kitchen Garden

Fragrant and Beautiful

Growing What I Love to Eat

Herbs and Herb Flowers

Tender Leaves

35

Hidden Flavor

51

Growing Underground

67

Crisp Stalks

97

Fresh and Dried

111

Meandering Vines

135

The Height of Summer

157

Lettuce and Salad Greens

Garlic, Onions, Leeks, and Shallots
Roots and Tubers

Fennel, Celery, Asparagus, Cardoons, and Rhubarb

Peas, Fava Beans, Green Beans, Shell Beans, and Peanuts
Cucumbers, Melons, Summer Squash, and Winter Squash
Tomatoes, Eggplant, Peppers, Corn, and Okra

viii

Colorful Chicories

Frise, Escarole, Radicchio, Belgian Endive, and Puntarelle

191

Essential Greens

205

Heading into Winter

223

Ripe Summer Fruit

243

Just-Picked Berries

263

Autumn Fruits and Nuts

281

Sweet and Savory Citrus

307

Preserving Vegetables and Fruits

325

Kale, Collard Greens, Broccoli Rabe, Chard, Spinach, Amaranth,

and Asian Greens
Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, and Brussels Sprouts
Cherries, Apricots, Plums, Peaches, and Nectarines
Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Blueberries,
Huckleberries, Mulberries, and Red Currants
Figs, Grapes, Apples, Pears, Quince, Persimmons, Pomegranates,
Walnuts, Hazelnuts, and Almonds
Lemons, Limes, Oranges, Grapefruit, Kumquats, Mandarin Oranges,
and Citron
Home Canning, Pickles, Jams and Jellies, Candied Fruit, Liqueurs,
and Dried Fruit

ix

Part II: Seed to Seed

Growing the New Kitchen Garden

Plant Wherever You Are

359

Its All About the Soil

361

Preparing the Beds

373

Seeds, Seedlings, and Healthy Plants

387

Harvesting Flavor

399

Fruit in the Garden

403

Tools and Resources

411

Glossary

416

Index

422

Soil, Compost, Minerals, Cover Crops, Potting Soil

Garden Planning, Soil Beds, Extending the Seasons, Containers
Sowing Seeds, Seedlings, Planting, Water, Plant Foods, Cultivation
Peak Harvest, Curing and Storing, Saving Seeds
Selecting Varieties, Planting, Pruning and Shaping, Harvest

284

AUTUMN FRUITS AND NUTS

Figs

(Ficus carica)

Figs are the most sensual of fruits when

completely ripe: sweet, soft, and seductive.
They can be served quartered and baked
on a galette crust, cut in half and roasted
with a little sweet wine and sugar, or cooked
down with sugar and lemon zest to make
jam. They pair especially well with candied
citrus peel or fresh berries. Their leaves
lend a wonderful coconut-like aroma when
heated. Wrap a piece of goat cheese or a fillet
of fish in a fig leaf before baking or grilling
itfor protection from the heat and a delicious infusion of flavor.
Black Mission is a very dependable variety with purple-black skin and sweet pink
flesh that has long been a standard in California. The fruit of Adriatic figs has bright
green skin and strawberry red flesh. Genoa,
with greenish yellow skin and reddish flesh,
and Celeste, with bronzy skin and rosy flesh,
are popular varieties for the more humid
East and Southeast.
Figs are ready to pick when they feel very
soft; the skin may be cracked, and they will
hang from the branch with a pliant stem.
They should come off with an easy snap
when grasped where they attach to the
branch. Ripe figs can be stored in the refrigerator for a day or two in a single layer in a
shallow pan with good air circulation. They
need little preparation for cooking or eating
fresh. Just snip off the little tough part of the
stem and give the fruits a rinse in cold water.
Only those with the thickest skin need to be
peeled.
To preserve backyard figs, let the ripe
fruits hang on the tree until wrinkled and

partially dried, then finish drying on trays

set in the sun or in a dehydrator. Fruit that
falls from the tree is okay to dry if picked up
soon after it falls.
Fig trees whimsical growth pattern and
small size add charm to any space. Large
deeply lobed leaves cast dense shade in the
summer, and silvery gray branches make
an interesting silhouette in winter. Most
fig varieties have a small summer crop,
borne on growth from the previous season.
The main crop forms on the current seasons twigs in late summer and fall. In cold
regions, grow figs in containers or trained
against a south-facing wall.

Adriatic Figs with

Honey, Mint, and Ricotta
Ripe plump Adriatic figs are a gorgeous lime
green with brilliant ruby red flesh. They are
delicious on their own and a decadent luxury drizzled with a bit of honey and mint.
Creamy fresh ricotta completes the dish.
Allow two figs for each person. Wipe
them clean with a damp cloth, cut off the
stem ends, and cut in half lengthwise.
Arrange the halves prettily on a plate, leaving a hole in the center of the design. Fill the
hole with a spoonful of ricotta per person.
Drizzle with honey and scatter a fine chiffonade of fresh mint over the dish. Finish
with a grind of black pepper, and if you
desire, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
Serve with grilled toasts or butter cookies
depending on whether they are served at the
beginning or the end of the meal.

285

FIGS GRAPES

Black Mission Figs

Roasted with Wild Fennel
4 servings

Roasted figs are delicious and can be served

either sweet or savory. Try them on a grilled
piece of bread with a slice of prosciutto and a
dollop of mascarpone, next to roasted duck
or pork, or nestled into a salad of rocket and
garden lettuce. For dessert, spoon vanilla ice
cream over them (or ice cream scented with
a few roasted fig leaves) or line them up in
a baked sweet tart shell filled with whipped
cream. Roast extra figs and have them in the
morning with Yogurt (page 183).
Preheat the oven to 375F.
Remove the stems and cut in half lengthwise:
8 Black Mission figs
Lay the figs, cut side up, in a single layer in
a baking dish that just holds them comfortably. Tuck in among the figs:
4 to 6 wild fennel fronds
Measure into a small bowl:
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons red wine
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon honey (optional)
Fresh-ground black pepper
A large pinch of salt
2 wild fennel flower heads, yellow
flower tops only
Mix well and spoon over the figs. Bake for
15 minutes or until soft and puffed. Serve
warm or at room temperature.
variations
Add a few drops of Pernod to the red wine
mixture.

Use purple basil in place of the fennel

fronds and omit the fennel tops.
Roast small clusters of grapes instead of
figs.

Grapes

(Vitis sp.)

Late summer and fall bring grapes to the

market. Many stores are limited to only
those green and red table grapes that ship
easily. But local farmers markets offer the
tender tasty varieties I love, whether eaten
right out of hand, tossed into fall salads,
made into smooth sweet sorbets, or roasted
and served over ice cream or next to a grilled
duck breast. I get very excited when Bronx
grapes arrive on the scene. They are a cross
between Concord and Thompson Seedless.
They are mindblowingly delicious: sweet,
tender, and juicy, with a touch of the unique
flavor of Concord grapes. Muscat grapes
have a fantastic aromatic and spiced flavor.
Try purple Muscat Hamburg, small green
Early Muscat, and early ripening golden
Queen of the Vineyard. Some other tried and
true varieties are Concord, Swenson Red,
Flame, and Crimson Seedless. Wine grapes,
though usually not good for eating out of
hand, are good for cooking, though they are
harder to find at the market.
When young, grape leaves can be cut into
a number of salsas, and I like to toss warm
olives with them for a tart marinade. Goat
cheese, and sardines and other little fish,
are delicious wrapped in a grape leaf and
grilled. The leaves help keep pickles crisp.
And if you grow your own grapes you can
pick some while still green and make your

304

AUTUMN FRUITS AND NUTS

Almonds

(Prunus dulcis)

At Chez Panisse, a little plate of almonds

toasted to a rich golden brown and tossed
with herbs is frequently the first thing people see when they sit down for dinner. This
dish is a delight. Almonds are a close cousin
of the stone fruits, and they add flavor and
depth to desserts made with peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, and plums. I like
to make a filling for baked peaches with
chopped almonds, butter, and sugar. A few
slivered almonds transform plum ice cream.
We also add almonds to the topping for
peach and nectarine crisps.
Mission has small nuts with plenty of
fruity noyau flavor. Ne Plus Ultra has large
pointy nuts with good flavor. All-in-One is
a garden favorite, with very tasty nuts on
small self-pollinating trees. Garden Prince,
another self-pollinating variety, has tasty,
soft-shelled nuts.
Almonds on the tree look like small
pale green peaches. If you grow your own
almonds, pick some in spring when the
fruits have formed, but the inner shell has
not hardened. Carefully cut around the soft
pit and release the tender, crisp immature
kernel or nut. If it is still soft and jellylike,
wait a week and try again. When they are
ready, take out the kernel, peel off the thin
skin, and use them right away. They are delicious in a spring salad or slivered and served
over vanilla ice cream with fresh berries or a
stone fruit compote.
Almond trees burst into bloom in late
spring with showy pink-white flowers.
Although they need some winter chill, they
also need a mild climate that will support

their early bloom. The nuts ripen best in

dry, hot summer weather. If you garden in
a marginal area, choose late-blooming varieties. Most varieties require another variety
planted nearby for cross-pollination.
When the nuts ripen in the late summer their green hulls crack open and reveal
the nut inside. Spread a tarp under the tree
and use a pole to shake the nuts from the
branches. Remove the hulls and spread out
the nuts to cure in an airy location out of
the sun. They should be ready to store after
a week or so. Check by shaking the nuts;
the kernels should rattle in the shell. Store
in a cool place, where they will keep for six
months. Shelled almonds should be refrigerated or frozen.

Almond Milk Panna Cotta

8 servings

Making your own almond milk is very

simple and is what makes this dessert fresh,
light, and utterly compelling. Add a few
slices of peach, nectarine, or other stone
fruits for a perfect finish, and a spoonful of
raspberry or chocolate sauce will make this
dessert quite elegant indeed.

ALMONDS

Measure into a bowl:

2/3 cup almonds
21/3 cups water
Cover the bowl and soak the almonds overnight. The next day, strain the almonds and
save the liquid. Peel off the skins and discard.
In a blender, pure the almonds with all the
soaking water. Line a strainer with cheesecloth and strain the blended mixture. Once
most of the liquid has drained through,
gather up the corners of the cheesecloth
and squeeze the almond pulp to extract the
remaining liquid.
Measure 1 cups of the almond milk and
set aside.
Lightly brush eight 4-ounce ramekins or
custard cups with:
Almond oil or a flavorless vegetable
oil
Measure into a small heat-proof bowl:
2 tablespoons water
Sprinkle over the surface of the water to
bloom:
One 1/4-ounce packet unflavored
gelatin
If there are any dry spots on the gelatin,
sprinkle them with a few of drops of water to
saturate. Set the bowl aside.
Measure into a heavy-bottomed pot:
1 cups heavy cream
4 tablespoons sugar
A small pinch of salt
Heat the mixture over medium heat to
170F, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt.
Remove from the heat and let the mixture
cool.
Once the cream mixture has cooled to
130F, gently dissolve the bloomed gelatin
by placing your heat-proof bowl into a pan

of shallow hot water. Stir gently, and when

the gelatin is completely liquefied add it to
the warm cream mixture. Stir in the almond
milk and:
2 to 3 drops of almond extract, if
desired
Strain the mixture and pour into the prepared ramekins or custard cups and put
them in the refrigerator to chill until set,
about 4 to 5 hours, or overnight.
To serve, run a small knife around the
inside of each ramekin. Turn each ramekin
over onto a small serving plate, shake gently,
and lift off the ramekin.
variation
Use the extra almond milk to make a fantastic smoothie with a handful of berries, a
few slices of peaches, and a couple dates.

Soft Almond Meringues

makes 2 dozen meringues

Crunchy on the outside and chewy in the

center, these meringues are absolutely delicious, either eaten on their own or served
with a scoop of ice cream or sorbet.
Preheat the oven to 325F.
Spread out on a baking sheet:
11/3 cups sliced almonds
Toast lightly (about 5 minutes) and set aside
to cool.
Put a small pot of water on the stove to boil.
Whisk together in a heat-proof nonreactive
metal bowl:
4 ounces powdered sugar, sifted
2 large egg whites
Set the bowl over the pot of boiling water.

305

306

AUTUMN FRUITS AND NUTS

Whisk until the mixture is warm, remove

from the heat, and continue whisking until
the egg whites form stiff peaks. (This can
easily be done by hand or in the bowl of a
stand mixer if you have one.)
Gently fold in the cooled sliced almonds
and:
teaspoon vanilla extract
A pinch of salt
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper
and pipe out or drop spoonfuls of meringue
onto the pan leaving at least 1 inches of
space between them. Bake in the oven until
the meringues look dry and you can lift
them slightly off the parchment, about 15
minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool
completely before putting them away. These
will keep in an airtight container for up to
1 week.
variations
Substitute chopped toasted hazelnuts, pecans, walnuts, or pistachios for the almonds.
Along with the toasted nuts, add to the
meringue mixture the same amount of
toasted coconut or bits of chopped bittersweet chocolate.

Chocolate Candies
with Dried Fruits and Nuts
makes about 25 candies

These candies are made with a drop of

melted chocolate and topped with dried
fruits and nuts. In France, they are called
mendiants, beggars, because these chocolates are carrying their belongings (dried
fruits and nuts) on their backs!

Gather together:
25 dried sour cherries
13 toasted almonds (cut into halves)
cup Candied Orange Peel (page
349), cut into 25 small pieces
Coarsely chop into same-size pieces:
pound bittersweet chocolate
Put into a small heat-proof mixing bowl.
Set the bowl over a pot of boiling water to
melt the chocolate. Stir constantly and
once the chocolate is melted, remove the
bowl from the pot and let the chocolate
cool and thicken, stirring occasionally.
It should feel just cool to the lips. Transfer to a piping bag with a small piping tip
and pipe coin-size drops (about the size
of a quarter) onto a parchment-paperlined sheet tray. (You can also use a small
spoon to make the drops.) Quickly place 1
cherry, 1 almond half, and 1 piece of candied orange peel onto each chocolate coin.
Refrigerate the candies before serving.
note
You can temper the chocolate and keep
the mendiants at room temperature for up
to 1 week. Tempering chocolate is a tedious
and finicky process. It usually takes a few
tries to get the technique down. For complete instructions, refer to a good chocolate
cookbook such as Alice Medrichs Seriously
Bitter Sweet, David Lebovitzs The Great
Book of Chocolate, or Dorie Greenspans
Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herm.
variations
Substitute any dried fruit and toasted nuts
for the dried cherries and almonds.
Use Candied Mint Leaves (page 30) or rose
petals in place of the nut or one of the fruits.

Sierra Beauty

Coxs Orange Pippin

Shinseiki apple pear

Smyrna quince

Comice

Wonderful pomegranate

Bosc
Fiorelle

Anjou
Seckel

Pur
chas
eacopyof

T
HEARTOFS
I
MPL
E
F
OODI
I
atoneoft
hes
er
et
ai
l
er
s
:

CLARKSON POTTER