Wiring Electrical Circuits PDF

Study Unit
Wiring Electrical Circuits
iii
Preview
All electrical systems have one thing in commonthey must be properly connected. Schematic diagrams and wiring plans are needed to properly connect and maintain electrical systems. As an electrician, you should be able to identify and understand the common wiring terms and symbols used in these diagrams and plans. Although most of the branch circuits discussed in this study unit are based on residential use, they may also apply to many commercial and industrial applications. When you complete this study unit, youll be able to Differentiate between feeder and branch circuits Identify the correct type of general or special-purpose circuit when given a list of circuit descriptions Describe how wiring is installed for branch circuits in a residence under particular situations Differentiate between portable, fixed, and stationary appliances and describe how each type is wired Identify the components needed for an electrical circuit Calculate the current in a neutral conductor Calculate the size of service-entrance conductor needed for a residence
Contents
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS
Parts of an Electrical System Electrical Circuits Types of Circuits
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors Installing the Meter Base Sizing and Mounting the Service Panel Grounding and Bonding of Service and Equipment Subpanels
LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Wiring Layout for a Small House Location of Receptacles Location of Switches Location of Lighting Outlets Listing of Residential Outlets Area Requirements
GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

General-Purpose Circuits Small-Appliance Circuits Special-Purpose Circuits Circuit Protection Circuit Grounding Other Circuits
SELF-CHECK ANSWERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 EXAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FUNDAMENTALS
An electrical system may be compared to a tree. As the tree roots support the tree trunk and branches, the electrical system, or service, supports the service-entrance equipment and branch circuits. The type of electrical service is determined by the public utility supplying the electric power. Most electric utilities produce and distribute alternating current (AC) power to their customers. (The distribution of direct current or DC power by electric utilities has largely stopped.) While an industrial maintenance electrician may still have to work on DC circuits, the vast majority of residential circuits are AC powered. Therefore, this study unit will deal mainly with AC power. The typical residential service is 120/240 V (volts) single-phase AC power. The slash between 120 and 240 means that both voltages are available to the customer. The service-entrance equipment brings the electric power into the building and then controls it before distributing it to the branch circuits. The branch circuits are the circuits that supply the loads. The electrical system within a building consists of many components such as wires, fuses, circuit breakers, switches, and lamps or other loads. Figure 1 shows an electrical system for a residence. Industrial and commercial systems use similar components in the same way. For convenience, the explanations given in this study unit will be for a residence, although the same rules apply to the complex wiring system of a large industrial plant.
Parts of an Electrical System

Service equipment and wiring circuits can best be explained by studying the wiring layout in Figure 1. Lets start by looking at the service entrance. It includes the service drop, service-entrance cables, watt-hour meter, service-disconnecting means, and grounding conductor. Lets look at each individual part of the service entrance shown in Figure 1A. Service Drop. The utility company installs the service drop. Servicedrop conductors are shown coming from a utility pole to the first attachment point on the building. Should the conductors come from either a manhole or a pad-mounted transformer to the building, theyre referred to as service lateral conductors. Figure 1B shows a typical underground-service lateral system. The number of conductors depends on the type of distribution system.
FIGURE 1AThis drawing shows a typical electrical system with the service entrance highlighted.
Service-entrance cable. The service-entrance cable continues from the point of attachment to the building through the watt-hour meter. Underground service might not require that you install service-entrance conductors or cables. The reason is the service lateral conductors, which run from the street mains (main electrical distribution lines) to the building, are terminated by the Power Company directly at the meter base. Watt-hour meter. The watt-hour meter is the device that measures the energy used by the consumer. The utility company generally specifies its location. The meter is installed between the service drop or service lateral and the service-disconnecting means.
FIGURE 1BThis drawing shows an alternative (underground) service lateral configuration. Remember that a system also includes loads, like the range and lamp, as well as devices such as the receptacle, light switch, lamp holder, and circuit breakers.
Service-disconnecting means. The service-disconnecting means is shown in Figure 1A. In this case, the disconnecting means is a circuit breaker. Switches or fuses may also be used as disconnecting means. The service-disconnecting device must be manually operated. It must provide a visual means to tell whether its in the open or closed position. In devices where a circuit breaker handle operates vertically, the UP position shall be the ON position. The service-disconnecting device must be mounted in an accessible location near the service entrance. A service-overcurrent device may also be contained within the service-disconnecting device. Each ungrounded service-entrance conductor must have either a fuse or circuit breaker in series with it. This prevents excessive current draw caused by faults, overload of the buildings wiring, or an excessive supply of electrical power delivered to the service entrance.
Grounding conductor. The grounding conductor is a low-resistance conductor connected between the ground and the identified neutral wire of the alternating current service conductors or the housing for the disconnecting means or both. In a typical installation, the neutral wire is identified by its white or natural gray insulation and the grounding conductor is either a bare conductor or green in color. Lets summarize whats just been described about the service entrance. It begins at the junction of the service drop and service-entrance cable; it ends where the grounding conductor is grounded. Included in the service entrance are the insulators and other materials used to support the building end of the service drop. Service-entrance installations are covered in detail in other texts. To understand how power is fed into the home, lets look at the right side of the diagram in Figure 1A. Feeder cable. Feeder conductors extend the electrical system. The feeder(s) is/are a cable or conductors between the load side of the service disconnect and the branch circuit panelboard. Generally, no loads are connected between those two points. Distribution panel board. The branch circuits are tapped off of the feeders at the distribution panel board. Such panels contain fuses or circuit breakers that protect the branch circuits. Although separate distribution panel boards are shown in Figure 1, such a center may be enclosed in the same cabinet as the service-disconnecting means. Circuit breakers are shown for protecting the branch circuits. If fuses were used as service-overcurrent devices, then the branch circuits would normally also be protected by fuses. However, both fuses and circuit breakers may be used in the same installation. Subpanel feeder cable. The subpanel feeder cable is an extension of the main feeder. The conductors in this cable must be protected by a circuit breaker or fuses in the main distribution panel. In Figure 1, its shown as a cable between the two distribution panel boards. Branch circuit cables. Figure 1A shows only four branch circuit cables extending from the distribution panel boards. This means that only four of the 15 branch circuits are supplying loads. One of the eight breakers shown in the first panel is protecting the subpanel feeders. These four branch circuits are 120-V circuits that are supplying a duplex receptacle, or convenience outlet, and a lamp thats controlled by a switch. Although only single loads are shown for each circuit, the typical circuit would supply more than one load or device of the same type, such as one circuit that supplies current to several lamps in an area of the building.
The electric range uses a separate circuit breaker within the equipment panel board. In this example, the range circuit is a 240-V circuit thats protected by a two-pole circuit breaker. In this study unit, youll learn about the many types of branch circuits found in a modern residence, and how to identify and install the required circuit components.
Electrical Circuits
Definition of a Circuit
According to the NEC, the term electrical equipment means any material, fitting, device, appliance, or apparatus used as part of, or in connection with, an electrical installation. The words equipment and component are used interchangeably because each piece of equipment is a component of the electrical installation. If electrical components are connected together properly, they form an electrical circuit. Simply put, an electrical circuit is the complete path followed by electric current. A branch circuit consists of the conductors and devices installed between the branch-circuit protection device (breaker or fuse) and the receptacle or connection point of the load. Once an appliance or load is either plugged into or connected to the receptacle or connection point, those components used to plug in or connect to the branch circuit become part of the circuit. These components are sometimes referred to as the load circuit, although the electrical trade doesnt recognize this phrase in defining circuits.
Circuit Components
Figure 2 shows the five basic types of components in a simple electrical circuit. All electrical circuits include, at the very least, the following three componentsthe power source, load, and conductors that join them. In Figure 2, a transformer is used as a power source and conductors join the transformer to a lamp. This is the electrical load or destination. Even without the fuse and switch, a complete circuit would still exist. The power source may originate from a panel board, transformer, battery, or generator. Most circuits contain at least one or more electrical devices such as switches, which are control devices, or fuses, which are protective devices. Many circuits also have circuit breakers, devices that both protect and control the circuit. A receptacle is a convenience device, used with a mating plug. A plug makes it easy to connect a conductor between the power source and load.
FIGURE 2A simple circuit will always contain at least three of the five different components shown herethe power source, load, and conductors.
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Types of Circuits
Electric circuits have names such as series circuits, branch circuits, 120-V circuits, high-voltage circuits, and remote-control circuits. The different names can be very confusing, especially when the same circuit is called by more than one name. Often, two or more names are combined to give a complete and accurate description of the circuit. The following list shows how circuits are described in terms of their characteristics.
Circuit Characteristics Wiring connection Number of wires Number of phases Type of grounding Electrical variables Wiring method Common Descriptive Terms Series, parallel, compound, delta, wye Two-wire, three-wire, four-wire Single-phase, polyphase, three-phase Grounded neutral, ungrounded neutral, with ground High-voltage, low-voltage, high-ampacity, wattage, 60-Hz (hertz) frequency, low-capacitance, high-impedance Cable, busway, cable bus, conduit, direct burial
Circuits can also be classed in terms of the type of customer, area served, section of the total installation, type of load, function, and even the method used to control them. The following list shows common descriptive terms for these classes.
Classes of Circuits Customer type Area served Section of installation Type of load Function Method of control Common Descriptive Terms Residential, commercial, industrial Hazardous, outdoor, weatherproof, raintight Service entrance, feeder, branch General-purpose, lighting, small appliance Power, communications, alarm, control Manual, automatic, remote control
Often theres no clear-cut category for a circuit. The name of the circuit used at any one time depends on the circuit characteristics being discussed at that time.
Series and Parallel Circuits

When several parts or devices are used in a wiring system, their circuits may be interconnected in various ways. The two basic connections of electric circuits are series and parallel. In a series circuit, all parts are connected end-to-end, like the links in a chain. This connection forms a closed-path circuit as in Figure 3A. A basic rule for a series circuit is that the same current flows through each part. If 10 A (amperes) flows through the switch, then 10 A will flow through the fuse and through each of the heaters. However, the voltage drop across each part in a series circuit is different and depends on the resistance of that part and the amount of current flowing through it. In the parallel circuit shown in Figure 3B, two or more parts are connected across the same voltage source. The two heaters and fan are connected in parallel or in shunt with each other and the power source. The basic rule for a parallel circuit is that the same voltage exists across each of the parallel-connected parts. The current branches off and a portion flows through each of the parallel branches. The total of the currents in the branches if added will be equal to the total current if measured at the source. This means that the higher the resistance of a branch, the lower the current through that branch. If a series circuit is broken (or opened) at one point, the entire circuits dead. No current flows in any part of it. If one of the branches in a parallel circuit is disconnected (or opened), the current in the other branches continues to flow. Therefore, an open circuit in one branch of a parallel circuit doesnt stop current flow in other branches.
FIGURE 3When a series circuit is opened, no current flows. In a parallel circuit, one branch can be opened, and current will still flow through the others.
Combination Circuits
Parts of a wiring system may be connected in a combination of series and parallel circuits. Figure 4 shows two diagrams of a heater circuit. In the schematic view, the heater and switch are connected in series with each other. The fan motor is connected in parallel with them. The circuit has two parallel branches. One branch has only one part, the fan motor; the other branch contains two parts in series, the heater and the switch. In this heater diagram, the switch controls only the heating element, not the fan. This is a series-parallel combination, or compound circuit.
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The pictorial diagram in Figure 4 labels the colors of the wires. Note that one side of each branch has a white wire. These white wires are connected to the common white wire, which leads to a source terminal. The red wire from the switch and the red wire from the fan motor are connected to the black wire. The black wire then leads to the other source terminal. Remember that in Figure 4, the common wire is white and all white wires are connected together. Remember that the same voltage exists across each branch of a parallel circuit. For that reason, electrical loads are designed to operate at certain standard voltages. All loads in a typical residence that require alternating current operate at either 120 or 240 V. Industrial and some commercial equipment are designed to operate at these or higher standard voltages. No matter what the voltage is, all loads will be connected in parallel with the voltage source. Electrical devices that protect and control an entire circuit or branch of a circuit will be connected in series with the portion of the circuit wiring or the load that the devices protect or control. For that reason, electrical devices such as fuses, circuit breakers, and switches are rated based on the amount of current they must handle.
Circuit Variables
Most circuits youll be dealing with are parallel circuits. These circuits have the same voltage for all the parallel loads. Suppose youre going to connect a new electrical load in a parallel circuit. Youll need to know the circuits operating voltage and the branch circuit conductors current-carrying capacity, or ampacity. Suppose the existing circuit is rated at 120 V and 20 amperes; the new load will be connected to the existing circuit to put it in parallel with the circuit. Its critical that the sum of the currents of all the parallel loads, including the newly added load, doesnt exceed 20 amperes.
Two- and Three-Wire Circuits

The circuits discussed so far have been two-wire circuits consisting of an ungrounded hot wire and a grounded neutral wire. Figure 5 shows that two such circuits running near each other have a total of four wires. Note that lines a and b are hot (ungrounded) conductors. The remaining lines n are the neutrals. These neutrals are connected together at the neutral bus in the panel board. If lines a and b are supplied by opposite sides of the service entrance, the current will flow as shown by the arrows. Opposite sides of the service entrance means that if line a is supplied by the black service-entrance wire, line b will be supplied by the red service-entrance wire. In this configuration, the voltage between lines a and n (or b and n) is 120 V, while the voltage between lines a and b is 240 V.
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FIGURE 5This shows examples of two- and three-wire circuits.
Since the neutral conductors are connected together at the panel board, theyre one-wire. Why use two wires when one will do? Its important to note that a three-wire 120/240-V circuit will do the work of two, two-wire 120-V circuits. However, opposite phase conductors sometimes share the same neutral as in the three-wire (multi-wire) circuit shown in Figure 5. If the neutral is disconnected or interrupted, the circuit would become a series circuit with a nominal voltage of 240 V! The load, if not rated for the higher voltage, would most likely be damaged or destroyed by the higher voltage. For this reason, its very important to be cautious in disconnecting neutral conductors in a panel. Assume that equal loads of 20 A each are present on the multi-wire circuit (which in this case is a three-wire circuit) in Figure 5. Then 20 A flows in lines a and b, but the two arrows on the neutral n are in opposite directions. Thus, the currents cancel and no current flows in the neutral. The result is no voltage drop in the neutral and less voltage drop in each circuit. When the currents are unequal theres less current in the neutral than in either hot conductor. As an example, if line a is carrying 20 A and line b is carrying 15 A, then the neutral n is carrying 5 A (20 15 = 5 A). Although the neutral current now is no longer zero, its still much less than either line current. This example remains there even when the single loads in Figure 5 are replaced by several smaller loads located where needed. However, this is true only if their current is drawn equally from each of the two sides of the circuit.
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Grounded Circuits
Youll remember that the neutral wire in a two-wire system is grounded or connected to the earth. When the neutral wire is connected to the earth, its a grounded conductor because it carries current during normal circuit operation. Dont confuse the grounded conductor with the grounding conductor. The grounded conductor is part of the current-carrying electrical circuit whose function is to provide a circuit path and stability to the level of voltage. A grounding conductor, on the other hand, isnt a currentcarrying conductor. Its function is to provide safety and protection to both personnel and equipment with a low impedance path to ground in case of a short in the electrical system. The grounded conductor or neutral wire must be kept continuous. In residential wiring, the neutral wire is never interrupted by a fuse, circuit breaker, switch, or other device. In industrial wiring, the neutral wire may be interrupted, but only if the ungrounded wires and the neutral wire are interrupted at the same time.
Circuit Description by Load Type

A circuit is often named after or described by the equipment (or load) to which it delivers power. Heres an example. Some residential circuits are called small-appliance, general-purpose, electric range, and electric dryer circuits. Each of these circuits has its own basic characteristics. Given the type of load, an experienced electrician could identify many of the circuit characteristics. The electrician would know such features as voltage, ampacity, number of phases, and number and size of conductors. Industrial branch circuits arent as standardized as residential circuits. However, given the load (such as a motor or lighting equipment), many of the circuit characteristics and much of the circuit equipment can often be determined.
Circuit Description by Function

So far, youve learned about the standard types of circuits used in electrical wiring systems. There are, however, many special circuits and auxiliary circuits. These circuits are also described by the function they serve or by the method by which theyre controlled. These circuits may include emergency power, hazardous-area, alarm, communication, and control circuits. The following briefly describes the first four of these circuits. Control circuits will be discussed in a later section. Emergency power can be distributed in one of two ways. Either the emergency power source, such as a diesel-powered generator or battery supply, can be switched directly into the main feeder and branch circuits, or the emergency power system may be equipped with its own separate feeders and branch circuits.
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Another type of circuit is the hazardous-area circuit. Its unique in that the circuit requires special explosion-proof devices and fittings. The electrical loads on these circuits, such as motors and lamps, must be of special construction. Other unique circuits include alarm circuits, doorbell or chime circuits, fire alarm circuits, and control circuits. Some of these circuits operate on low voltages such as 12 V, 16 V, or 24 V. Figure 6 shows how a door chime circuit might be connected. The transformer shown in Figure 6 could be replaced by a battery in an emergency situation without affecting the chimes operation. Control circuits are often found in industrial facilities and are used to transfer or transmit electrical control signals from one location to another.
FIGURE 6The two-door chime can be wired to sound a double note for the front door and a single note for the back door.
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Control Circuits
Control circuits are the next most common circuits an electrician has to work on beside branch and feeder circuits. Thats why you, the electrician, must have a thorough understanding of basic electricity and be able to read and understand control drawings. Control circuits are commonly used to regulate or control the supply of electrical power to a load. They may either switch the power on or off or may adjust the power to a desired level. Some control circuits are very simple while others are quite complex. Many major home appliances and a majority of the electrical equipment in an industrial setting have control circuits. Figure 7 shows a simplified schematic for a home air conditioner. The compressor and fan motor are the two obvious main loads in the circuit. The other circuit devicesswitch, temperature control, and the two capacitorsare control devices. These devices determine when and how long the electrical loads are operated.
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In the control drawing for the air conditioner, the heavy black dots in the mode switch indicate which connections are energized for the various modes of operation. In the HI FAN position, notice that line terminal L is connected only to terminal 1, which goes to the fan motor.
FIGURE 7This shows a control circuit schematic for an air conditioner.
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Review
Circuits may be referred to by different names but all circuits are basically common to one another in that each circuit or group of circuits has three componentsa source of power, conductors, and an electrical load. Most circuits will also likely contain protective and control devices. As you gain more experience as an electrician, you should be able to describe the types of circuits in this study unit and their characteristics.
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Self-Check 1
At the end of each section of Wiring Electrical Circuits, youll be asked to check your understanding of what youve just read by completing a Self-Check. Writing the answers to these questions will help you review what youve learned so far. Please complete Self-Check 1 now. 1. The conductors that run in the air from a utility pole to the first point of attachment on a building are called the ________ ________. 2. The two components in Figure 2 that provide the necessary circuit protection and control are the fuse and the _______. 3. Protective and control devices are connected in _______ with the load. 4. Electricity is distributed by most electric utilities as _______ current. 5. In a three-wire 120/240-V circuit, if the current in line a is 17 A and the current in line b is 8 A, the current in the neutral is _______ A. 6. A _______ conductor is connected to the earth and doesnt carry current during normal operation. 7. When you call a circuit an electric heater circuit, or a motor circuit, youre referring to it by the type of _______ it supplies. 8. Name two types of special or auxiliary circuits. _______________________________________________________________________________ 9. If youre installing an electrical system in a hazardous area, you must be sure to use _______ devices and fittings. Check your answers with those on page 83.
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INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS

Now that youve reviewed circuit theory and components lets consider placing and sizing the actual components that make up a typical electrical system. Keep in mind that the typical residential electrical system includes service drop or lateral feed, service-entrance conductors, weather head, watt-hour meter, service panel, grounding electrode, grounding conductor, feeders, branch circuits, and various devices. Youve also learned how to route conductors for branch circuits and how to select the various electrical devices most commonly installed. Later in this study unit, youll learn to properly design branch circuits and specify the correct number of devices for each part of the dwelling. First, however, electricians should understand how the service-entrance components are sized and installed. This section provides the information needed to properly lay out and install a residential electrical system thats safe, convenient, and code compliant.
Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors

As learned earlier, the service-entrance conductors provide the path by which power moves from the service drop, to the watt-hour meter, and to the service-entrance panel. These conductors are sometimes part of the service-entrance cable (SE cable). In other installations, theyre individual conductors that run inside conduit. Electricians should follow standard wire-ampacity guidelines to size the service-entrance conductor to match the maximum-amperage rating of the service. For instance, if the main disconnecting switch and panel board are sized for 200 A, then 2/0 or 3/0 copper wire may be used for the service-entrance conductor. In this particular case, while the NEC specifies that a 2/0 copper wire has a maximum ampacity of 200 amps, the electrician may install the next largest conductor size for safety and future additions. However, the local code may dictate that the service load be calculated using established methods. One such method is the optional calculations for dwelling units described in Article 220-30 of the NEC. The following steps show how to compute the estimated load on the hot and neutral service-entrance conductors using this method. A sample calculation will follow. Follow Steps 1 through 6 to calculate the service conductor load. Step 1: Calculate the volt-ampere (VA) load for the general lighting and receptacles. Find this by multiplying the total square footage of the building by 3 VA as stated in Article 220-30(b)(2) of the NEC. (Note that to convert VA to kVA you divide by 1000.) Save this number for a later calculation.
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Step 2: Calculate the volt-ampere loads of the kitchen and laundry branch circuits by adding together the total number of 2-wire, 20-ampere, small-appliance branch circuits in the kitchen and each laundry branch circuit. Multiply this number by 1500 VA as discussed in Article 220-30(b)(1) of the NEC. Save this result for a later calculation. Step 3: Add together all the volt-ampere load ratings (stamped on nameplates) of appliances that are secured in place (except air-conditioning and heating units) as discussed in Article 220-30(b)(3) of the NEC. Step 4: Calculate the total volt-ampere demand load from the last three steps by applying the demand factors listed in Table 220-30 in the NEC to the calculated total. Step 5: Find the larger of the heating or air-conditioning load rating (not both) and apply the demand factors as listed in Article 220-30(c). Air-conditioning or heat pumps are calculated at 100%, while space heating is calculated at 65% for three or less units, and 40% for four or more units. Add this number to the total demand load found in Step 4. Step 6: Divide the total found in Step 5 by the system voltage, usually 240 volts. The result is the amperage rating for the service conductors as covered in the NEC Article 310-16. Follow Steps 7 through 8 to calculate the neutral conductor load. Step 7: Add the general load found in the first step with the kitchen and laundry loads in the second step. Begin the neutral conductor calculation by counting the first 3000 VA at 100%, or 3000VA. Combine this with 35% of the remaining VA from steps 1 and 2. Now add 100% of the dishwasher VA, and 70% of the range and the dryer VA. Step 8: Divide this total by the system voltage (240 volts) and the answer is the amperage. According to Article 310-16 of the NEC, youll use this number to determine the required neutral conductor type and size for this residence. Example: Find the total estimated load on the hot and neutral load service-entrance conductors for a dwelling with a total of 2500 square feet. The dwelling contains a 3 kVA or 3000 VA water heater, 1.5 kVA or a 1500 VA dishwasher, and a 5 kVA or 5000 VA air conditioner. It also contains four or more combined space heaters of 15 kVA or 15000 VA, a 5.5 kVA or 5500 VA dryer, and a 12 kVA or 12000 VA range. Solution: Follow Steps 1 through 8 above.
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Step 1: Calculate the lighting and receptacle load. 2500 sq ft 3 VA/sq ft = 7500 VA (7.5 kVA) Step 2: Add together the two NEC-required small-appliance kitchen circuits, and one laundry branch circuit. 3 1500 VA = 4500 VA (4.5 kVA) Step 3: Determine rating total of all secured appliances except heating and air conditioning. Range dryer water heater dishwasher Total 12000 V 5500 VA 3000 VA 1500 VA 22000 VA
Step 4: Total the figures from Steps 1 through 3. 7500 + 4500 + 22000 = 34000 VA Apply this to the demand factors based on the optional method found in the NEC. 100% of the first 10 kVA 10,000
40% of the remaining 24 kVA (34000 10000 = 24000) 24000 .40 = 9600 Total: 10000 VA + 9600 VA = 19600 VA Step 5: Add 40% of the larger of the two heating and air conditioning loads to the total from Step 4. Total from Step 4 40 % of the heating (15000 .4) Total 19600 VA +6000 VA 25600 VA
Step 6: Divide the total in Step 5 by the provided voltage. 25600 VA 240 V = 106.6 A Keep in mind that conductors should be sized so that the estimated amperage load doesnt exceed 85% of the conductors rated capacity. For a system with an estimated load of 130 A, the NEC (Table 310-16) requires the service conductors to be equal to or greater than the diameter of #2 AWG wire. Note that 85% of 130 A is 110.5 A, which is close to 106.6 amperes. However, the service conductors in most situations will be sized in accordance to the standard rating of the service equipment. In this situation, the service equipment will most likely be rated at 200 amperes since 130 amperes isnt a common rating
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for service equipment and, therefore, the service conductors must be large enough to handle 200 amperes. Step 7: To determine the service feeder neutral load, apply the appropriate demand factors to all of the loads: 100% of the first 3000 VA (Step 1 + Step 2 3000 = 9000) 35% of the remaining load (.35 9000) 100% of the dishwasher 70% of the range (12000 0.7) 70% of the dryer ( 5,500 0.7) Total 3,150 1,500 8,400 3,850 19,900 3000
Step 8. Divide 240 V into the total neutral demand found in Step 7. 19 ,900 dVA = 82 .9 A 240 dV Answer: A minimum of a #4 AWG copper conductor is required for the service neutral conductor. Note that the power company must approve the selected location of the meter base. The electrician will supply the power company with the service-entrance cable hookup point (covered by a weatherhead or similar device), then install a meter base and service panel (Figure 8A). The electrician will then run the service-entrance cable from the meter base to the hookup point and from the load side of the meter base to the service panel, making sure the grounding electrode and grounding conductor are installed. Only then will the power company hook up their cable, splice their incoming line to the installed service-entrance cable, and install and seal the watt-hour meter in the meter base (Figure 8B). Electricians must follow the NEC and local codes closely when placing the service-entrance cable. The minimum height of the power line above pedestrians or vehicle traffic, the size of the conduit required (when conduit is used), and the space between cable clamps (when serviceentrance cable is used) are all closely specified by the NEC (Figure 9). Local codes sometimes expand on the requirements of the NEC but never reduce the requirements. Always check local codes and ordinances before installation to assure compliance. When calculating clearance heights and conductor lengths, remember to account for the amount of conductor the power company will require for a drip loop and splicing. Its typically acceptable to leave a minimum of two feet of excess cable beyond the weatherhead. The local power company sometimes specifies the length of excess cable to be extended beyond the weatherhead.
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FIGURE 8(A) shows a typical service-drop installation while (B) shows how the power company uses splices to connect the service drop to the service-entrance cable the electrician has installed.
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FIGURE 9This shows service-entrance cable support requirements.
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Installing the Meter Base

As you learned earlier, the power company installs the watt-hour meter in a residential application. The power company also supplies the meter base (or meter socket) but the electrician must install it. Likewise, the power company must approve the location of the meter base. However, its important that the electrician follow local codes and/or utility regulations that often govern the meter bases exact placement. Ordinances may include its height off the ground, and how power is run from the meter to the service panel. In addition, the meter base capacity must match the rating of the system and the system configuration (above ground versus below ground). For example, the meter base for a 200 A service wont suffice if a 400 A service is to be installed. Sometimes the meter base will be located on the opposite side of the wall from the service panel, as illustrated in Figure 8A. When these two pieces of equipment are located back-to-back, the job of completing the service-entrance circuit is much easier and less expensive. However, the electrician usually doesnt decide on the location of the service.
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If the meter base and service panel arent located back-to-back, a longer run of service-entrance conductor will be needed from the meter base to the panel. This means that a service disconnecting means will be needed to control the power within that additional run of service cable in case of a short circuit. If the meter base and service panel are mounted back-toback, routing the wires from the base to the panel is simple. First, to mount the meter base on the outside of the house, remove the knockouts from the back of the base (designed to allow conductors to run from the base to the panel box). Hold the meter base level against the building with the correct side facing up. Trace the shape of the box opening onto the wall, remove the box, and cut a hole slightly larger than the one traced. Obviously, dont cut through any wall studs because theyre designed to support the structure. Now attach any required conduit fittings to the meter base. Conduit fittings attached may be those that accept the service-entrance cable from the drip loop or ones that route the cable onto the panel box. Remember that for an overhead service the connector on the top of the meter base must be watertight and matched to the size conduit or service-entrance cable being installed. The service-entrance cable from an underground service will always be installed in conduit and fed into the bottom of the meter base. In this case, the conduit will be joined to the meter base with a standard conduit fitting. Next, coat the wall around the outside of the hole with a heavy bead of sealant. Make sure the meter base is level and fasten the meter base to the wall using screws or appropriate anchors. To provide additional sealing against moisture, place an additional bead of sealant where the top and two sides of the meter base meet the wall. Dont seal where the bottom of the meter base meets the wall because moisture that seeps in from the top or sides needs to exit the space behind the meter base.
Connecting the Service-Entrance Conductors to the Meter Base

The next step in completing the electrical service is to install the service entrance conductors from the weatherhead (for service drops) and terminate them on the line side (top) terminals of the meter base. If sheathed cable (SE) is installed inside conduit, be sure to remove only enough sheathing so that the sheathing extends through the weatherproof connector on the top of the meter base. You wont normally need to install the service entrance conductors for lateral feed as the power company will usually do this. Strip enough insulation from the end of the conductors for the connections (normally 3 4 to 1 inch). Connect the incoming service-entrance conductors to the meter base. If the service-entrance cable is aluminum, the stripped portion of the conductor must be coated with an antioxidant compound before the conductors are connected to the meter base. When hooking up the meter base, remember that the incoming power line is attached to the top (line side) terminals, while the conductors that exit the meter base and feed the service panel will connect to the bottom
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(load side) terminals. This is shown in Figure 10. In higher-amperage services where two parallel service-entrance cables are used, the hookup procedure is the same except the two conductors per phase are attached to a special double terminal inside the meter base. When cables are installed in parallel, its very important that service conductors of like phases be kept together. This requires marking the conductors in the meter base and at the weatherhead (where the power company will hook up) so that the opposite phase conductors arent connected together.
FIGURE 10This shows upper and lower terminals connected to the base.
L1
L2
NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR
TWO HOT CONDUCTORS
NEUTRAL CONDUCTOR
TWO HOT CONDUCTORS
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Wiring from the Meter to the Service Panel

If the meter base and service panel are back-to-back, run a section of conduit through the wall from the back of the meter base so that it enters the back of the panel as was shown earlier in Figure 8A. The conduit will often be a presized galvanized rigid-conduit nipple. The nipple will be installed with locknuts on both sides of the meter bases and panel boards sheet metal wall. The locknuts ensure that the conduit will provide a good ground path from the base to the panel box. In addition to the locknuts, the electrician should always install one conduit bushing on the inside of the meter base, and one conduit bushing on the inside of the panel. This provides a smooth contact edge for the conductors to enter and exit the conduit nipple. Its more likely that the service panel wont be located directly on the other side of the wall from the meter base. If not, the service-entrance cable will exit the bottom of the meter base, and may enter the dwelling as shown in Figure 11.
FIGURE 11In this example, a service-entrance cable exits the bottom of the meter base, enters the basement, is routed through a main disconnect mounted nearest the point of basement entrance, and enters the panel.
1 51,- 9)
-6-4 *)5-
)1 . 4 . 0 75-
5+)* -
2) * : 5-481+,15+ -+6
7651,9)
*)5- - 6
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Before finishing your final systems design and certainly before purchasing materials or submitting a material list or bid, the electrician should lay out the complete service entrance on paper. One erroneous dimension could result in several improperly placed systems components. Both NEC requirements and local code requirements must be reviewed prior to installing any components to assure compliance. Consider easily forgotten components such as grounding rods, grounding conductors, clamps, connectors, anchors, fittings, anti-oxidant (for aluminum conductors) and other miscellaneous hardware when preparing a material list or bid.
Sizing and Mounting the Service Panel

Its critical that you install a service panel with enough capacity to handle a reasonable amount of future expansion in the electrical system. Its very likely that the homeowner will some day want to modify the dwelling in a way that requires additional branch circuits and/or increased load capacity. Although a load calculation may be done prior to installation, its always best to size the system larger to accommodate later expansion or additions. If load calculations conclude that the system will require 150 amps, its good practice to install a 200-amp panel. In fact, electricians should probably install at least a 200 ampere-rated service in most modern-day residential systems. The NEC requires the service to be rated no less than 100 amperes for a one-family residence (Article 230-79[c]). Of course, some dwellings will need more than a 200-amp service. If your load calculations or other factors indicate a need for a higher amperage service, 250 amps for instance, install at least a 300-amp service. Based on material and labor cost factors, you or someone else will need to decide whether its more economical to install a single 300-amp panel or 200- and 100-amp panels side-by-side. Panels are also rated based on the number of breakers they hold. The largest-capacity 200-amp panels may hold up to forty-two circuit breakers. In most cases, you should select the panel within the target amperage range thats capable of holding the most breakers. Finally, remember that the electrician is ultimately the person who must hook up the panel. When working with different panel designs, try to pre-evaluate them for ease of assembly and growth. The location of neutral buses, the arrangement of breaker installation, and several other features contribute to making the panel either easier or more difficult to wire.
Sizing and Installing the Main Breaker

In some residential installations, the service disconnecting means will be the main breaker in the service panel. When this is the case, the main breaker controls and protects two of the four conductors entering the
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panel, as shown in Figure 12. The switched conductors are always the two hot conductors. When the main breaker in the service panel serves as the main disconnecting device, it must be labeled Service Disconnect. The other two conductors entering the panel (neutral and ground) are connected to the neutral bus and grounding bar (not shown) respectively. The neutral bar must be bonded to the panel enclosure using a bonding screw thats normally supplied with the panel enclosure. Youll learn more about bonding in a later section.
FIGURE 12This shows a panel enclosure with a main-breaker switch.
If the service disconnecting means is installed indoors but not in the service panel, it should be located as closely as possible to the point where electrical power enters the building. Sometimes this requires it to be located in its own separate enclosure, in line with the service-entrance circuit, and ahead of the service panel.
Installing Circuit Breakers

Later in this study unit, youll learn how branch circuits are laid out in a typical dwelling, and why the components in one branch circuit must be separated electrically from other branch circuit components. For now, however, assume that each branch circuit has been determined and the various loads in the dwelling are connected to these branch circuits. You may have twelve general lighting circuits (15 A), two small-appliance (20 A) circuits serving the kitchen, one 20 A branch laundry circuit, one 20 A branch workshop circuit, and several dedicated branch circuits serving the dryer, water heater, range, and electric heat pump. As you
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now know, each of these branch circuits requires its own breaker and in many cases, these breakers will be quite different from one another. In this section of the study unit, well discuss the various types of breakers youll encounter and explain how theyre used in a modern residential service panel. Youve already learned that circuit breakers are installed in a panel enclosure. However, you should be aware that there are several types of breakers, each with its own application. The most commonly encountered standard breaker (if there is such a thing) is the full-size breaker. Its single-poled, designed to protect a single branch circuit, and is usually rated at either 15 or 20 amps. Electricians refer to this type of breaker by the number of poles it contains, as well as its amperage rating. In this case, you would refer to the breaker as a single-pole 15-amp (or 20-amp) breaker. Dual or piggyback breakers can usually be inserted only into panels that provide slots for their installation. Theyre designed to protect two individually separate branch circuits. The dual breaker is normally the same width as a standard breaker but contains two half-thickness breakers, each with its own handle (Figure 13). A half breaker is simply one-half of a dual breaker and can only be connected to one branch circuit. Its sometimes referred to in the trade as a thin breaker. As more dual and half breakers are used, the number of branch circuits connected in a panel increases, as does the ambient temperature in the panel enclosure. Therefore, the allowable number of dual and half breakers is limited. Half and dual breakers can only be installed in slots indicated by the panel box manufacturer. These panels incorporate a special groove designed to accept a tab thats formed into the bottom of the breaker. Only panels that are equipped with the groove can accept these special breakers.
FIGURE 13Dual and half breakers are designed to fit only grooved slots in a panel enclosure.
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Double-pole breakers connect to both legs of the hot bus. These breakers normally protect and control branch circuits that supply 240 volts. Double-pole breakers protecting residential branch circuits usually range from 15 to 70 amps, with 30-amp breakers protecting most clothes dryer and water heater circuits. The 40- or 50-amp breakers are normally used to protect the electric kitchen range and/or oven circuits.
Balancing Circuit Loads

As youve already learned, a standard 120/240 service includes two hot wires and a neutral. Each conductor is connected to a specific bus, which distributes the function of the conductor. The hot buses distribute the hot lines to the breakers, which in turn distribute the hot lines to the loads. The neutral bus distributes the grounded neutral to the branchcircuit neutral conductors, and the grounding bus distributes the equipment ground to the grounding conductors. The two hot conductors are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. This means that when the alternating current in one hot bus reaches its maximum positive peak, the current in the other bus reaches its maximum negative peak. Normally, the panelboard is designed so that half of the circuit breaker positions are arranged to draw current from one of the hot buses while the other half draws from the other bus. The panel manufacturers accomplish this by staggering the connecting points from top to bottom in the panel. In other words, one breaker will connect to a phase while the next breaker will connect to b phase. This staggering goes from top to bottom in the panel. This isnt information that youll need in your daily functions as an electrician, but it does help you to better understand why certain components are designed the way they are. A balanced circuit load occurs when the current through each hot bus is equal. When this happens, the positive peak current cancels out the negative peak current and no current flows through the neutral conductor. Of course, its not likely that the two hot conductor currents will be equal. Hence, when the current levels arent equal, the neutral conductor carries the difference in currents back to the panel. As an example, if branch circuits attached to one bus draw 65 amps collectively, while those attached to the other bus draw 75 amps collectively, the neutral conductor will carry 10 amps (the difference between 65 and 75 amps) back to the neutral bus in the panel. To better balance a circuit, distribute the loads equally between the two hot buses as much as possible. One method you may use is splitting the two small-appliance circuits to the kitchen between the two hot buses.
Installing a Grounding Electrode

As you know, every electrical service panel must include a grounding conductor. If possible, this conductor should be attached to a grounding electrode. In some localities, its allowable to ground the electrical system to the water main, but this type of grounding must be supplemented by an additional grounding electrode as specified in the NEC Article 250-50 and Article 250-52. Grounding electrodes must be at least 8 feet long and
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driven into the ground. They should maintain a continuous low-resistance conductive contact with the soil. Rods made of ferrous (steel or iron) material must be at least 5 8 inch in diameter. Nonferrous rods (copper clad) must be at least 1 2 inch in diameter. The top of the rod to which youll attach the grounding conductor should be flush with or just below the surface. If the presence of rock makes it impossible to fully drive the rod into the earth, it may be buried horizontally in a trench thats at least 2 1 2-feet deep, or driven at an angle not exceeding 45 degrees. You may never shorten the 8-foot length of a grounding rod by cutting portions from the rod. It must always remain 8 feet in length. Depending on lightning hazards, you may need to install more than one grounding rod. The NEC and local codes specify many of the procedures associated with the installation of the grounding system. The NEC also specifies that the conductor used to connect the grounding rod to the service panel be free from interruptions or splices.
Grounding and Bonding of Service and Equipment

The word bonding is defined as the coming together of all metal parts in the system so that no potential difference exists between them. Remember that grounding is the interconnection of all metal components with the grounding conductor to provide a low-impedance path for fault-current flow should one of the energized conductors come into contact with the metal components. When installing any electrical service, always bond the neutral bar to the panel enclosure. If any fault current develops on the system it will flow across the equipment, through the bonding screw and onto the service grounded conductor. This will cause the overcurrent device to open, thus eliminating dangerous voltages on the equipment. The neutral bar may be bonded in any one of the following ways. Using a bonding screw. In 100 and 200 ampere panels the bonding screw is normally a 10/32-type screw thats generally green in color. Attaching a bonding strap. The thickness of the strap may vary depending on the rated loads of the panel. Installing a bonding conductor (or jumper). Consult Table 1 for the size of bonding conductor needed to bond a neutral bar. Note that this table, which is taken from the NEC, is for grounding electrode conductors. Thats because Article 250-102(c) states that bonding jumpers cant be smaller than the grounding electrode conductor.
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Table 1 GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR FOR ALTERNATING-CURRENT SYSTEMS

Size of Largest Service-Entrance Conductor or Equivalent Area for Parallel Conductors1 Copper 2 or smaller 1 or 1/0 2/0 or 3/0 Over 3/0 through 350 kcmil Over 350 kcmil through 600 kcmil Over 600 kcmil through 1100 kcmil Over 1100 kcmil Notes: (a) Where multiple sets of service-entrance conductors are used as permitted in Section 230-40, Exception No. 2, the equivalent size of the largest service-entrance conductor shall be determined by the largest sum of the areas of the corresponding conductors of each set. (b) Where there are no service-entrance conductors, the grounding electrode conductor size shall be determined by the equivalent size of the largest service-entrance conductor required for the load to be served.
1This 2See
Size of Grounding Electrode Conductor Copper 8 6 4 2 1/0 2/0 3/0 Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum2 6 4 2 1/0 3/0 4/0 250 kcmil
Aluminum or Copper-Clad Aluminum 1/0 or smaller 2/0 or 3/0 4/0 or 250 kcmil Over 250 kcmil through 500 kcmil Over 500 kcmil through 900 kcmil Over 900 kcmil through 1750 kcmil Over 1750 kcmil
table also applies to the derived conductors of separately derived AC systems. installation restrictions in Section 250-64(a) of the NEC
(Reprinted with permission from NFPA 70-1999, the National Electrical Code, Copyright 1998, National Fire Protection Association, on the referenced subject which is represented only by the standard in its entirety. National Electrical Code and NEC are registered trademarks of the National Fire Protection Association, Inc., Quincy, MA 02269)
All raceways for the service entrance shall be bonded together. Again, Table 1 indicates the size of the bonding jumper needed. If the conductors within the conduit or the conduits themselves are larger than 1100 kcmil copper or 1750 kcmil aluminum, the bonding jumper shall have an area not less than 12 1 2 percent of the area of the largest phase conductor. In the case of parallel conductors, the largest area of a phase conductor is considered to be the sum of the areas of the conductors paralleled in one phase.
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Lets work through several example problems using Table 1.
Problem 1:
What size of copper-bonding jumper is required to bond a metal conduit with three 500-kcmil THWN Cu conductors and one neutral conductor? Solution: Figure 14 shows that we have only one 500 kcmil per phase. Refer to Table 1 under service-entrance conductors in the Copper column. A 500 kcmil conductor falls under the Over 350 kcmil through 600 kcmil category. Therefore, 1/0-size copper wire is needed to bond the metal conduit properly.
FIGURE 14This shows the bonding of a raceway with three conductors.
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Problem 2:
What size copper-bonding jumper is required to bond three raceways using one bonding jumper, where each metal conduit contains three 600-kcmil Cu conductors that are parallel per phase? Figure 15 illustrates this example.
FIGURE 15This shows the bonding of three raceways in a series with three parallel-phase conductors.
Solution: The first step is to add up the conductors to find the total kcmil per phase (600 3 = 1800 kcmil). Now that we know we have an area of 1800 kcmil per phase, we can check Table 1 for the size of the bonding jumper needed. Since Table 1 only goes up to 1100 kcmil Cu, were now required to take 12 1 2 % of the largest phase conductor. (The largest phase conductor is considered to be the total area of the parallel conductors, or 1800 kcmil.) 1800 kcmil 0.125 = 225 kcmil
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Rounding off, we find that 250 kcmil bonding jumper is required to bond all three metal conduits properly. Lets take this example one step further. Everything remains the same, except, instead of having all three conduits bonded in a series, each conduit will be bonded individually. See Figure 16.
FIGURE 16One bonding jumper to each conduit requires only a 1/0 Cu when bonding individually.
Using Table 1, locate the largest phase conductor in the conduit (as explained in note [a]). This would be 600 kcmil Cu. Then refer to the Over 350 kcmil through 600 kcmil column in Table 1. A 1/0-size conductor is the minimum size that would be required to bond each conduit properly.
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This example shows that if the situations permits, its more cost-effective (material and labor) to bond each conduit individually in a paralleled system. The interior metal piping through a building must also be bonded. Table 1 also sizes the bonding conductor for the metal piping. Refer to Figure 17 that shows the proper bonding of the interior metal water pipe. Keep in mind that it serves no purpose to bond non-metallic water piping such as PVC.
FIGURE 17This shows bonding of interior metal pipes.
Should you decide or be required to run the bonding conductor in a metal conduit, you then must also bond the conduit itself to the waterline. See Figures 18 and 19.
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FIGURE 18This shows bonding of a raceway to a water pipe.
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FIGURE 19This shows a close-up view of the bonding jumper area in Figure 18.
The following items should be bonded together to make up the grounding electrode system if theyre available on the premises: (a) metal underground water pipe (10 feet or more of metal pipe in direct contact with the earth); (b) metal frame of building (where building is intentionally grounded to the earth); (c) concrete-encased electrode; and (d) grounding ring (constructed by burying at least 20 feet of #2 or larger bare copper wire in a trench 2 1 2 feet deep or more, encircling the building or structure requiring the grounding system). The size of the grounding conductor is found in Table 1 unless otherwise noted on the plans or drawings. Should none of these items be available, you would then be required to install grounding rods, pipe electrodes (minimum 3 4-inch trade size iron or steel, metal coated to prevent corrosion), or electrode plates (minimum 1 4-inch thick iron or steel plate or minimum .06 -inch thick nonferrous plate, with at least 2 square feet of plate surface exposed to the soil). If we installed a 400-A three-phase service and had access to all of these items, the installation would look much like the installation in Figure 20. Bonding and grounding protects against the unpredictable ground faults and shorts which may develop in any electrical system. Proper bonding and grounding of a system wont only lessen personnel exposure to high voltages and potential damage to conductors and equipment, but should also open affected overcurrent devices.
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FIGURE 20This shows a grounding electrode system.
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Subpanels
There may be instances in a residential wiring plan that call for a subpanel installation. One may be that when a large number of major appliances and similar heavy loads are located a long distance from the service panel, a subpanel may be needed to supply these appliances or loads. Subpanels are also used when an addition is added onto a house. An addition usually requires several branch circuits and is generally located quite far from the original service panel. Subpanels are sometimes installed when adding equipment such as room air conditioners, dishwashers, etc. because the existing service panel has no more room for additional breakers. In new installations, installing subpanels may reduce the amount of conductor-routing work by permitting the electrician to install only one large feeder cable from the service panel to the subpanel. The subpanel can then be located much closer to the locations of the loads. A subpanel resembles and functions much like a regular panel, with some exceptions. First, because the subpanel is fed through the main panel, theres no need for a main breaker in the subpanel (although you may still install one if you wish). Secondly, the neutral and ground buses in the subpanel must be completely isolated from one another. This means that they cant be directly connected to one another and that the neutral bus must be isolated from contacting the subpanel enclosure by mounting it in the enclosure using some type of insulating material. This is usually accomplished with plastic separators between the neutral bus and the enclosure. As just learned, components such as panels, subpanels, and other enclosures must be connected to equipment ground. Because of the required separation between the neutral and ground buses, the equipment-bonding device may only be connected to the ground bus and not the neutral bus. Power is supplied to the subpanel directly from the service panel, normally using a four-conductor service-entrance cable. Now take a few moments to review what youve learned by completing Self-Check 2.
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Self-Check 2
1. True or False? If possible, its best to ground each conductor individually. 2. Bonding screws are used to bond the _______ bar. 3. The main breaker can be used as the service _______. 4. The drip loop of the SEC attached to the building must be at least _______ feet above the ground where only pedestrian traffic is a concern. 5. True or False? Residential wiring must always have a subpanel installed. 6. The neutral bus and subpanel are normally isolated by _______. 7. Heating and burning of conductors caused by short circuits can be reduced by bonding and _______. Check your answers with those on page 83.
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LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES

Wiring Layout for a Small House
Quite often, the electrician wont receive complete and adequate plans for small residential dwellings. An experienced electrician can use a building plan as a basis for designing an electrical layout that complies with the National Electrical Code and any local codes. Figure 21 shows a wiring layout plan for a three-bedroom ranch-type house with a basement. Assume that the laundry facilities and the service panel are in the basement. The basement plan with its wiring layout isnt shown in this drawing. The outlets are indicated using the standard electrical symbols you should be familiar with by now. All duplex receptacles are grounding-type receptacles.
FIGURE 21This shows a wiring layout for a small house.
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The arrowheads on the circuits indicate the home runs, which are the cable runs to the distribution panel where the branch-circuit protective devices are located. The number of 2- and 3-wire circuits can be found by counting the arrowheads. The home runs for each circuit normally begin at the outlet nearest the panel. The ideal location for the panel is where the load is concentrated, which is in the kitchen and laundry. The location of the home runs in Figure 21 isnt typical of a house because the home runs shown here are scattered without regard to the possible panel location. Branch circuits normally end at lighting outlets or receptacle outlets. The light gray lines connecting the outlets in Figure 21 represent runs of cable. Broken lines are also used sometimes to indicate exposed wiring in the basement, but the basement isnt shown in this wiring layout. In the kitchen, receptacles have been provided for the refrigerator, clock, iron, can opener, toaster, and other small appliances. A special outlet S is provided for an ironing station. Its equipped with a switch and pilot lamp so that the homeowner will know whether the iron is on or not. A special receptacle (R) is provided for the range. Several special outlets are represented in the wiring plan, including one for a clock (C), dishwasher (DW), garbage disposal (GD), and range hood (RH). Each special outlet is identified on the drawing to indicate its use. Many range hoods contain both a fan and a lamp so separate fan and lamp holder outlets arent shown. Note that the kitchen and dining room share two small-appliance circuits and these circuits dont enter other rooms. The NEC doesnt permit these circuits to supply power to any other rooms except breakfast nooks. A sufficient number of receptacles are installed in the other rooms. Theyre spaced approximately equal distances apart. The distance between adjacent receptacles in the same room (excluding kitchen and bathroom) should always be less than 12 feet according to the NEC. Each bedroom is equipped with a combination switch and a receptacle outlet as well as a ceiling light for general lighting. Each closet has an enclosed lamp fixture controlled by a pull-chain switch. The receptacle at the entrance door is conveniently located for connecting a vacuum cleaner or other small appliances. The bathroom has a ceiling light for general lighting and special lights at the mirror. Electric heating is often used in the bathroom to supplement the regular heating. All receptacles in a bathroom shall be ground-fault protected. The bathroom circuit may not supply any other room other than another bathroom. A split-wired duplex receptacle is shown near the front door in the corner of the living room. The top half of the receptacle is wired so that its controlled by two three-way switches. The bottom half is always energized. This permits a lamp to be plugged into the top half and controlled from the front door and the hall, while an appliance such as a clock may be plugged into the bottom half. The terrace is equipped with two ground-fault-type weatherproof (WP) receptacles for portable lamps, decorative lighting, or tools. Because two receptacles are installed, theres no need to pass cords over the doorway, thus reducing the chance of
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damaging cord insulation. Switches are often used to control weatherproof outlets, which allow the outlets to be used more easily. Three-way switches are used in the hall, kitchen, and living room to reduce the need of retracing steps when a person moves from one part of the house to the other. Another convenient feature is the push-button door-chime switches located at both exterior doors to control the chime located in the hall.
Location of Receptacles
There isnt a required height for mounting receptacles but a convenient recommended height for duplex receptacles is 16 inches (in.) above the floor. At that height, the outlet is more accessible and more adaptable to appliance cords. In the kitchen, bathroom, laundry, and garage, a recommended height for receptacles is 48 inches above the floor. In the kitchen, that height equates to approximately 12 inches above the countertops. Present practice is to provide enough receptacles so that no point in a room (except kitchen and bathroom) is more than 6 feet from a receptacle. Thus, the distance between receptacles is always less than 12 feet. Any wall space greater than two feet in length shall require a receptacle. Sliding panels, such as sliding glass doors, arent counted as wall space according to the NEC Article 210-52(a)(2)(d). The receptacles should be approximately equally spaced. However, the spacing may be changed somewhat to address anticipated placement of furniture. In the kitchen, receptacles installed on a countertop shall be installed so that no point along the counter (measured horizontally) is more than 24 inches from a receptacle outlet. A receptacle outlet should also be installed to serve each counter space 12 inches wide or wider. The receptacle for the refrigerator should be hidden from view when the refrigerator is in place. Weatherproof GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) receptacles should be installed at convenient outdoor locations, front and back, for supplying decorative lighting and power tools. These receptacles should be kept at least 18 inches above ground level for protection of the receptacle and ease of accessibility. Special receptacles with key locks are available for use where vandalism is a problem. For extra convenience, wall-mounted switches may control these outdoor receptacles.
Location of Switches
A convenient height for light switches is approximately 48 inches above the finished floor, on the lock side of a door, and within 6 inches of the door frame. Switch locations should be carefully planned to accommodate the residents by following the normal course of passage from room to room that a resident may normally take. For example, upon entering the house a person should be able to turn on a light without taking many
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steps. Upon leaving that room, they should also be able to enter the hall or another room, turn on lights conveniently and turn off the preceding light. This accommodation can be accomplished by installing three- and four-way switches. A combination switch and pilot may be installed in a situation where a light, such as a basement light, cant be seen from the switch location. Of course, the combination switch and pilot light should be installed in a convenient place where it can be seen. When the branch-circuit wires are run from the panel to the switch and then to the light, its possible to install a combination switch and receptacle at the switch location because both the hot wire and the neutral wire are present. With a combination switch and receptacle the receptacle is always energized regardless of the position of the light switch.
Location of Lighting Outlets

A minimum of at least one lighting outlet controlled by a light switch should be installed in every habitable room and bathroom. Wall-mounted lighting fixtures are useful at the mirror in the bathroom and should be placed about 4 1 2 to 5 1 2 feet above the floor, depending upon their design and intended use. A fluorescent light on each side of the mirror may provide substantial light. Incandescent lamps or a single fluorescent lamp may also be used but dont always provide sufficient light. Some bathroom cabinets are constructed with lamp fixtures and receptacles included. A wall-mounted light switch should be installed to control the light on the cabinet regardless of the switching mechanism provided on the cabinet assembly. Likewise, the receptacle on the cabinet cannot be counted as the necessary receptacle requirement for the bathroom. When installing lighting in an enclosed shower stall, an approved Listed Fixture, or Suitable for Wet Locations type fixture should be installed. A wall switch outside the shower stall should control the light in the shower. Dont install the switch in the shower stall. Hallways, stairways, and attached garages should have at least one lighting outlet controlled by a light switch. Special lighting outlets at bookcases, fireplaces, coves, draperies, cornices, and kitchen work spaces call for special location planning. Consideration should also be given to outdoor lighting in addition to lighting that may be plugged into the weatherproof receptacles. These lighting additions may include weatherproof spotlights, floodlights, sidewalk lighting, or post lights with automatic switching. When controlling lights from the exterior of the building, always use weatherproof switches.
Listing of Residential Outlets

Table 2 lists suggested outlets for residences. Specialty outlets, which may be needed for home businesses and hobbies, arent listed and require special consideration.
Table 2 SUMMARY OF SUGGESTED OUTLETS FOR RESIDENCES

Space Living room, library, den, sunroom, family room Dining room, dinette, breakfast room Kitchen, kitchenette Lighting Outlets
One ceiling outlet, wall-switch controlled. Two outlets where room length exceeds twice the width. Wall, cove, or valance outlets may be substituted. One ceiling outlet, wall-switch controlled.
Type of Circuits Gen.
Convenience Outlets
No point at wall line more than six ft from an outlet. Wall spaces two ft or more have outlet, excluding sliding panels. Outlet in mantel shelf. One or more switch-controlled outlet(s). No point at wall line more than six ft from an outlet. Wall spaces two ft or more to have outlet, excluding sliding panels. Two circuit minimum. No point measured horizontally on countertop shall be more than 24 in. from GFCI outlet. One GFCI outlet at refrigerator location. One GFCI outlet for each counter one ft or wider.
Type of Special-Purpose Outlets Circuits Gen. Outlet for room air conditioner if no
central air conditioner is planned.
Type of Circuits Ind.
Gen.
App.
One ceiling outlet, wall-switch controlled.
Gen.
App.
One outlet for range. One outlet for clock. One outlet for vent hood. One outlet for dishwasher. One outlet for garbage disposal unit. One outlet for washer. One outlet for hand iron or ironer. One outlet for clothes dryer.
Ind. (3-wire) General General Ind. Ind. Ind. Lau. Ind. Ind.
Laundry
One ceiling outlet at ironing center. Wall-switch control for one ceiling outlet. One overhead outlet, wall-switch controlled.
Bedrooms
Gen.
No point at wall live more than six ft from outlet. Wall spaces two ft or more to have outlet excluding sliding panels. One outlet for each 10 ft or more in length.
Gen.
One outlet for room air conditioner or portable space heater.
Reception room Halls Stairways
One outlet, switch-controlled. One outlet for each 10 ft, wall-switch controlled. One outlet on each floor to illuminate head and foot of stairway. Each outlet to have multiple-switch control at head and foot of stairway where difference in floor level is six or more steps.
Gen. Gen. Gen.
Gen. Gen.
One general-use outlet, especially at intermediate landings of large area.
Gen.
Summary of Suggested Outlets for ResidencesContinued Space Closets, exterior entrances Covered porches Lighting Outlets
One outlet per closet. One or two outlets, wall-switch controlled. One outlet for 75 sq. ft of porch floor, wall switchcontrolled.
Convenience Outlets
One weatherproof GFCI outlet at front and rear entrance 18 in. above grade. One weatherproof GFCI outlet for each 15 ft of house bordering porch and located 18 in. above grade. One outlet for each 15 ft of house wall bordering porch located 18 in. above grade. One outlet at workbench location, one at furnace location.
Special-Purpose Outlets
Type of Circuits
Gen.
Gen.
Terraces, patios One outlet on post or
building, wall-switch controlled inside door.
Gen.
Gen.
Basement utility One outlet for each enclosed space, one for workbench, space
and one for furnace location. Sufficient additional outlets to provide one for each 150 sq. ft of open space.
Gen.
Gen.
One outlet for electrical equipment used in connection with furnace operation or central electric space heater.
Ind.
Accessible attics Garage
One outlet from foot of stairs. One outlet for each enclosed space. One interior wall-switch outlet for one- or two-car garage. One outlet for exterior lighting, multiple-switch controlled if garage is detached from house.
Gen.
One outlet for general use.
Gen.
1 outlet for summer cooling fan, controlled from several switch locations. One outlet each for food freezer, GFCI on workbench, etc., if planned.
Ind.
Gen.
One GFCI outlet for one- or two-car garages.
Gen.
Ind.
1. 2. 3. 4.
Gen: outlets supplied by general-purpose circuits App: outlets supplied by small-appliance circuits Ind: outlets supplied by individual equipment circuits Lau: outlets supplied by laundry circuit
Note: A convenience outlet shall be at least of the duplex type (two or more plug-in positions) except as otherwise specified. All spaces for which wall-switch controls are required, and which have no more than one principal entrance, shall be equipped with multiple-switch control at the lock side of doors or the traffic side of arches. If this requirement would result in the placing of switches controlling the same light within 10 ft of each other, one of the switch locations may be eliminated.
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Not all the outlets listed are likely to be used in any one installation. However, Table 2 is a good checklist to consult when deciding whether the planned electrical wiring has enough outlets for safety and convenience.
Area Requirements
Figure 22 shows a wiring plan for a three-level house. Starting with the living room, well examine some of the electrical circuits and outlets that should be considered when wiring a new home or adding circuits to an older home.
Living Room Requirements

Wiring requirements for the living room shown in Figure 23 also apply to sun rooms, dens, family rooms, and libraries. Decorative lighting is a major design feature and often takes precedence over other needed features such as adequate lighting for reading. In new homes, its not an uncommon practice to omit a ceiling light outlet in the center of the living room. Lighting is typically installed on walls, in nooks, or is supplied by portable lamps plugged into generalpurpose receptacles. In Figure 23, the two three-way switches in the living room are used to control a fluorescent lamp thats installed behind a valance.
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FIGURE 22The GFCI receptacles are the only protective devices shown in this layout. They must be used in the bathroom, kitchen countertops, garages, and on the outside of the house. Its important to note that lighting for closets is required by the NEC to have the bulb totally enclosed.
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FIGURE 23Unless there is a lot of decorative lighting, the living room wiring is very simple.
,1 1 / 4
16+0-
5!
5!
6 5-+ -8-
. 7 4-5+- 6 1/06
5! 5 .4
,
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6 4
181 / 4
Because theres no central ceiling light outlet in the living room, a wall switch at the living room entrance controls at least one of the convenience outlets placed around the room. This arrangement permits a portable light like an end table lamp to be switched on from the doorway. In some designs, the top receptacles of a duplex receptacle are switch controlled while the bottom receptacles stay hot at all times. The switch-controlled outlets are called split receptacles. In such outlets, the common hot metal tab is broken off, making the two receptacles separate. The common neutral metal tab remains intact, supplying a common neutral to both parts of the receptacle. The location standards for these receptacles are the same as those mentioned earlier in this lesson. The outlets should be installed 12 inches above the floor line and installed approximately 12 feet apart around the wall space so that no point along the floor line is more than 6 feet from an outlet. If theres a break in the wall, such as a sliding glass door or an archway, locate the outlets near the break. Some convenience outlets may be flush-mounted on mantel shelves, in bookcases, and in areas for decorative lighting effects. A special-purpose outlet must be installed if a room-type air conditioning unit is to be installed.
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Dining Room Requirements

A dining room normally has a ceiling outlet directly over the proposed location of the table, as shown in Figure 24. A wall switch controls the ceiling outlet and more often than not, a dimmer switch is used. Breakfast nooks also have ceiling outlets but these outlets arent normally dimmer-controlled.
FIGURE 24Dining Room Layout
Convenience outlets are installed around the dining room walls and may be supplied by the 20-ampere small-appliance circuits supplying the kitchen countertop receptacles. However, its highly recommended that separate 20-ampere branch circuits supply these receptacles due to a high load potential caused by small appliances such as hot plates, toaster ovens and the like. When a dining table or breakfast table is placed next to a wall, an outlet located approximately 4 inches above the proposed table height is often useful for appliances such as toasters. Some dining rooms may be equipped with serving counters or serving bars. An extra outlet just above the end of the counter is handy for appliances such as blenders and ice crushers. This outlet is a NEC requirement if the bar is a minimum of two feet by one foot in measurement. If the bar is considered a wet bar with a water-supplied sink, the receptacle must be GFCI protected.
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Three other noteworthy dining-room circuit features should be pointed out. First, locating the light switch on the other side of the kitchen door might be convenient. This would make the switch handier for anyone entering or leaving the back door. Second, notice that a receptacle outlet is located on the wall between the kitchen doorway and the back door. Thirdly, in order to comply with the NEC requirement that no point along a rooms wall be more than six feet from a convenience outlet, you will need to install a receptacle outlet on the back wall.
Powder Room and Bathroom Requirements

The powder room with only a sink, mirror, and dressing table is becoming more common, since it relieves the main bathroom traffic. The NEC defines a bathroom as a room thats equipped with a basin and at least one of the following: a tub, commode, or shower. If a room doesnt meet the criteria found in this definition, its not considered a bathroom and doesnt have to comply with the electrical requirements for a bathroom. It would then normally require only one receptacle outlet and good lighting for the mirror. Rooms like the residential floor plan in Figure 22 and the one shown in Figure 25 are defined as bathrooms and must meet or exceed the electrical requirements for bathrooms.
50 9-4 56)
/.+1
51 6 1 -6
*)604
9141 / 2 )
FIGURE 25Some bathrooms may also have special-purpose outlets for space heaters and exhaust fans. The switch-controlled fan can be part of a light fixture or an individual fixture. Another option is a light fixture in the shower stall.
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Lighting at the mirror should be carefully planned. Illumination of the entire face and neck without shadows is ideal. Single concentrated light sources usually dont accommodate this. Light fixtures ranging from twin fixtures to various kinds of makeup fixtures are much more efficient. Ceiling lamps installed to provide illumination to the front edge of the washbasin provide improved personal lighting at the mirror. When more than one mirror is located in the room, extra lighting is required for each mirror. Shower stalls may have a vapor-proof light fixture installed, with the wall switch installed outside of the stall. Steam bath and whirlpool appliances are supplied separately or may be plugged into convenience outlets if the load isnt extremely high. Infrared and ultraviolet light fixtures may be installed as ceiling fixtures. Receptacles should be provided in proximity to each mirror to accommodate electric razors, hair dryers, and other small, personal appliances. All receptacles in a bathroom must be of the GFCI type. Special-purpose outlets may also be installed in bathrooms to supply space heaters and ventilating fans. Usually the vent fan is switch controlled. It may be directly attached to a ceiling light or installed as an individual fixture. Switch-controlled nightlights are also recommended as a convenience feature in bathrooms.
Kitchen Requirements
The electric requirements of a kitchen are more numerous than other rooms in a house and call for additional planning (Figure 26). Wall switches usually control most general lighting in a kitchen. The kitchen should be illuminated so that light is directed on the countertops, sink, range, dishwasher, work area, and kitchen table. The interiors of cabinets and other storage areas may have their own fixtures installed to satisfy special designs. As a rule, kitchen countertop receptacles should be supplied by at least two small-appliance circuits. Receptacles on countertops shall be installed so that no point along the counter space is more than 24 inches (horizontally) from a receptacle outlet. Countertop receptacles should be installed approximately 12 inches from the countertop to the bottom of the receptacle. If a kitchen desk or cookbook shelf is planned, one outlet should be installed to supply that specialized area. Tables placed against walls should also have one outlet just above table level to accommodate food preparation and warming appliances. The refrigerator should have its own circuit and outlet. All other convenience outlets may be split-receptacle types connected to two or more 20-A small-appliance circuits. Special-purpose circuits and outlets are used for the electric range, ventilating fan, dishwasher, garbage disposal, food freezer, and other major appliances located in the kitchen.
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FIGURE 26Note that the compact kitchen has almost every major appliance installed.
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Bedroom Requirements
The standard bedroom generally requires ceiling or cornice-type general illumination. The sample-bedroom layouts shown in Figures 22 and 27 indicate ceiling light outlets. Light fixtures over full-length mirrors and vanities are also convenient.
FIGURE 27Install a sufficient number of receptacles in the bedroom. Usually, the night tables next to a bed will hold such items as lamps, clocks, and radios.
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A bedroom normally requires numerous convenience outlets to power electric appliances since furniture arrangements vary extensively. These outlets may accommodate electric blankets, televisions, radios, clocks, bed lamps, electric coffeemakers, and even small refrigerators. The 6-foot rule must be followed in locating these receptacles. In many modern, custom-designed homes, remote-control switching consoles may be installed to control lighting located both inside and outside the dwelling. The master console unit is usually installed in the master bedroom. Special outlets should be provided to supply power to these consoles.
Basement Requirements
The lighting for an unfinished basement, like the one shown in Figure 28, is more functional than decorative. Typical basement wiring can be almost commercial appearing in nature. General illumination requirements are usually one luminescent light for each 150 square feet of open space. Although there should be no dark areas in a basement, its not a requirement to light individual areas in an unfinished basement.
FIGURE 28Most modern, finished basements require numerous circuits, since they contain work areas, laundry areas, and family rooms.
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A wall switch at the head of the stairs should control the light at the foot of the stairs. If the number of stairs is six or more, two three-way switches should be installed, with one at the top of the stairs and the other at the bottom of the stairs. The switch at the top of the stairs should be equipped with a pilot light and be located so that no reaching is required to operate the switch. Fixtures with pull chains may be used in the remaining sections of the basement. If the basement is equipped with a workbench, one 20-ampere circuit and receptacle should be installed to supply power to the workbench. Outlets are also required if laundry appliances are located in the basement, but these circuits should follow the same rules that apply to those previously covered for laundry areas. Any other areas set aside in the basement for special usage should be supplied with the necessary circuits and receptacles required. Appliances such as emergency water (sump) pumps, dehumidifiers, and space heaters should have special-purpose circuits installed that are rated according to the load demand of the appliance or equipment. All general-purpose receptacles in an unfinished basement must be GFCI. Receptacles that are of the single type and dedicated to supply power to equipment such as freezers and pumps arent required to be of the GFCI type. Receptacles located in a finished basement arent required to be of the GFCI type.
Outside Area Requirements

When an outdoor roofed area such as a porch has more than 75 sq ft of floor area, a wall switch should control a lighting outlet. Large areas may need two or more lighting outletsas shown in Figure 29. Multiple-switch control is especially useful at entrances. This is true when the entrance is a passageway such as between the garage and house. When the outdoor area isnt roofed, such as a terrace or a patio, it should be generally illuminated using wall or post fixtures. A wall switch inside the house should control that lighting. In the garage or carport, its common to install one ceiling outlet with three-way switching control in the home and at garage doors. On the exterior grounds, floodlights are especially useful to illuminate the area. Colored lights and special effects can add decoration in addition to providing added illumination. Weatherproof convenience outlets should be installed in convenient outside locations both front and rear, on walls that border porches, terraces, and patios. The outlets should also have ground-fault protection.
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FIGURE 29Lighting outdoor areas requires special considerations.
At least one general-purpose convenience outlet should be installed in a one- or two-car garage or carport and it must be GFCI-protected. When the garage is also used to hold a food freezer or is equipped with an electric garage-door opener, special-purpose outlets must be installed to address these additions. These special-purpose outlets arent required to be GFCI, providing the receptacle is installed as a single-type receptacle for special-purpose usage.
Fixtures in Closets
The NEC defines storage space as a volume bounded by the sides and back closet walls and planes extending from the closet door vertically to the height of 6 feet, or the highest clothing-hanging rod and parallel to the walls at a horizontal distance of 24 inches from the sides and back of the closet walls respectively, and continuing vertically to the closet ceiling parallel to the walls at a horizontal distance of 12 inches or the width of the shelf, whichever is greater. In the past, people could install all types of surface-mounted and recessed incandescent fixtures directly over the shelves in closets. When clothes, boxes, etc., were stored on the shelves, some of this material would come in contact with the fixture creating a fire hazard within the closet.
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Because of those potential fire hazards, the NEC now only allows two types of lighting fixtures in closets: 1. Surface-mount or recessed incandescent fixtures with the lamp completely enclosed. 2. Surface-mount or recessed fluorescent fixtures with the lamp exposed or enclosed. A surface-mounted incandescent fixture mounted over a door on the wall or ceiling must be a minimum of 12 inches from the shelf or, if theres no shelf, 24 inches from the wall (Figure 30). A recessed incandescent fixture must be a minimum of 6 inches from the edge of the shelf or 18 inches from the wall to the fixture trim (Figure 31A). Surface-mount or recessed fluorescent fixtures must be a minimum of 6 inches from the edge of the shelf or 18 inches from the wall (Figure 31B).
FIGURE 30This shows the clearance requirements for surface-mounted incandescent lightning fixtures.
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FIGURE 31This shows the clearance requirements for recessed incandescent and any fluorescent lighting fixtures.
Now take a few moments to review what youve learned by completing Self-Check 3.
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Self-Check 3
1. The maximum distance from any point along the floor line to a receptacle in the living room is ______ feet. 2. True or False? The dining room usually has an outlet for a ceiling-mounted light. 3. Which room in a new house other than the kitchen must have receptacles protected by a GFCI device? ______________________________________________________________________________ 4. In which room of a house would you probably find the master control unit for a remotely controlled lighting system? ______________________________________________________________________________ 5. When should a switch be equipped with a pilot light? ______________________________________________________________________________ Check your answers with those on page 83.
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GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS

When installing general-purpose, small-appliance, and special-purpose circuits, certain considerations must be kept in mind. This section of text explains these considerations as they apply to each type of circuit. In addition, special considerations that apply to larger appliance circuits will be discussed in greater depth. Youll learn how the NEC classifies appliances by groupsfixed, portable, and stationary, that some appliances require their own branch circuit, while others may require a grounded neutral wire.
General-Purpose Circuits
General-purpose circuits are two-conductor circuits that provide 120 V to the lighting outlets and general-purpose convenience outlets, not including the kitchen countertops, laundry room, or bathroom. Two rules of thumb apply for the number of circuits to be installed in a residence. Install one 20-A circuit for no more than 750 square feetof floor space. Install one 15-A circuit for no more than 500 square feetof floor space. In residential wiring applications, there arent a limited number of receptacles that can be installed on a general-purpose circuit. Electricians usually install six to ten outlets per circuit and divide the circuits as evenly as possible between the general-purpose receptacles. One consideration in deciding which receptacles should connect to which circuit might be economics. A good rule of economics is to connect the outlets in a configuration that uses the least amount of wire or cable. Another alternative the electrician should consider in the configuration of the circuitry of the outlets in any one room is connecting the outlets so that theyre on more than just one circuit. Wiring in this manner permits some of the receptacles in the room to remain energized, providing lighting and power when the current serving the rest of the room fails. This is done in case one of the circuits should fail or require turning off for repair or other reasons. Outlets with split-wired receptacles may be installed in the living room, kitchen, family room, dining areas, and laundry room.
Small-Appliance Circuits
As you know, at least two small-appliance circuits are required in a kitchen. These same two circuits can be extended into an adjoining dining area. However, its recommended that you install additional circuits for dining areas and other adjoining rooms. Only one appliance circuit is required in a separate laundry area.
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Special-Purpose Circuits
Certain types of appliances require their own branch circuit. This means that each appliance has its own conductors, outlet, and circuit breaker or fuse. These circuits can have ampacities of 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, or even 70A. These special-purpose or individual equipment circuits are considered to have a relatively high load demand but their ampacities arent necessarily extremely high. One of the reasons an individual circuit may be needed is that the electrical load is heavy enough that no other load can share the circuit without overloading it. For example, an electric range may be rated at 20 kW (kilowatts). It would require a 240-volt, 50-A, three-wire circuit. A household electric-clothes dryer may require a 240-volt, 30-A, three-wire circuit. With an insulated neutral conductor should be insulated. A standard residential washing machine normally requires a 120volt, 20-A, two-wire circuit. A combination washer-dryer usually requires a 240-volt, 40-A, three-wire circuit. A water heater also requires a special-purpose circuit, usually a 240-volt, 30 A, two-wire circuit. Special-purpose circuits are also used for appliances that are either automatically controlled or will be running for long periods without supervision. For example, the circuit that supplies power to fuel-fired heating equipment such as a furnace is normally controlled by a thermostat. An individual circuit is required so that if a fault develops in the equipment, the circuits protective device will open, removing power from only the one outlet. This avoids the likelihood of other nonrelated circuits being opened as a result of the equipment problem. Should a group of outlets share the same circuit as other major appliances and one of the connected loads causes the breaker to trip, power could be interrupted to equipment such as food freezers, refrigerators and the like, resulting in expensive food spoilage. Dishwashers and garbage disposals are sometimes connected to the same circuit since theyre seldom in operation at the same time. The preferred way, however, is to have each one on its own circuit. Table 3 lists the electrical and wiring requirements for several special-purpose circuits. Always check the nameplate on the equipment to verify the equipments load demand, as it may differ from those listed in Table 3.
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Table 3 Appliance
Range Washer/dryer Clothes dryer Washer Fuel-fired heater Workbench Central air conditioning Water pump
SPECIAL-PURPOSE BRANCH CIRCUITS Circuit Voltage

50 A, three-wire 40 A, three-wire 30 A, three-wire 20 A, two-wire 15 A, two-wire 20 A, two-wire 40 A, two-wire 20 A, two-wire 120/240 120/240 120/240 120 120 120 240 240
AWG
No. 6 No. 8 No. 10 No. 12 No. 14 No. 12 No. 8 No. 12
Appliance Circuit Connections

Lets look at how some special-purpose circuits are wired. Smaller appliances can be connected to the standard receptacles, which are rated at 15 or 20 A. A small appliance is one that can be easily moved from one location to another by simply unplugging it, picking it up and moving it. This type of appliance may include a blender, toaster, food processor, etc. Heavier-load demanding appliances often need their own circuit and require special connection configurations. Figure 32 shows two types of special receptacles generally used for some of these heavier-load demanding appliances such as clothes dryers and electric ranges.
Clothes Dryers
The receptacle shown in Figure 32A is a 30-ampere-rated, 4-wire receptacle generally used to connect clothes dryers. Prior to the 1996 revision of the NEC, the 30-A receptacle was only required to have three slots for connection. All new clothes dryers now come equipped with the standard 4-prong pigtail and will require a 4-slot receptacle.
Freestanding (Self-Contained) Electric Ranges

The receptacle shown in Figure 32B is a 50-ampere-rated, 4-wire receptacle generally used to connect freestanding electric ranges. Previously it too, like the 30-ampere receptacle, had only three slots for connection. These changes were made in the NEC for the protection of people. By adding and requiring the fourth slot, a separate equipment-grounding conductor must be installed and connected from the grounding terminal in the panel to the frame of the equipment. Prior to the NEC change, it wasnt uncommon to use the grounded conductor (neutral) as the equipment-grounding conductor in these special circuits. Keep in mind that these two receptacles arent restricted to use on only dryers and
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FIGURE 3230-ampere and 50-ampere 4-wire receptacles
! )
2-4-
" 914- 4-+-26)+ )
# )
2-4-
" 914- 4-+-26)+ *
ranges. Any appliance or equipment that has the voltage and amperage requirements to match may be connected using these receptacles. You may find welding machines and other equipment connected in this manner. However, never use the 30-ampere receptacle in a 50-ampere requirement. In addition, freestanding electric ranges may be connected directly into the junction box provided on the range. The basic rule the electrician generally follows is that if the equipment comes equipped with a 50-ampere rated pigtail, use the 50-ampere receptacle. If the range comes equipped with a junction box and no pigtail, either use the 50-ampere receptacle by adding a 50-ampere pigtail, or connect the range directly into a wall-mounted junction box with proper connectors. Always make sure that any conductor used in the connection of these appliances is in accordance with Table 310-16 in the NEC and never use the pigtail as the disconnecting means for the circuit.
Sectional Electric Ranges

In sectional ranges, the oven is a separate unit installed in the wall or between kitchen cabinets. The cooktop is usually installed on the kitchen counter at a convenient location.
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There are two basic methods of wiring sectional ranges. 1. Supply each section with its own individual branch circuit. 2. Supply both sections from one 50-A circuit. Sectional ranges may be connected by installing two separate branch circuits, one for the cooktop, and one for the oven. Factors that may dictate using this method are (1) customer preference, (2) electrical plans indicating separate circuits, or (3) nameplate load ratings indicating a separate branch circuit. Should this be the case, run individual branch circuits to each piece of equipment following the steps outlined above for free standing units. Make sure you mark the panel indicating which circuit breaker or fuse protects the cooktop and which circuit breaker or fuse protects the oven. If none of the factors are present that require two individual branch circuits for the sectional range, one branch circuit may be installed and tapped in a junction box to provide power to each piece of sectional range. Figure 33 shows such a configuration. Before installing any branch conductors or devices, always check the nameplate load rating on the specific equipment to make sure that all circuit components meet or exceed the requirements of the NEC. When connecting a sectional range using the single-branch circuit method, the electrician will normally run a 50-ampere-rated conductor from a double-pole circuit breaker in the panel, to a centrally located junction box, convenient to both the cooktop and the oven. An example of this is shown in Figure 33. The electrician will then tap or connect from this junction box with two separate load-rated cables to both the cooktop and the oven. Always check the nameplate on each piece of equipment. This determines what size conductor you should install to each piece of equipment from the main branch-circuit junction box. Normally the conductors to each separate cooking unit will be smaller in size than the conductor used to feed the main circuit, since this main circuit is based on the total of the loads of both pieces of equipment. Connecting the equipment to the tapped circuits may be accomplished by using the proper receptacle and pigtail or by direct connection into the manufacturer-supplied junction box. Labeling the cables in the junction box with what appliance they supply is also a good practice.
Water Heaters
In connecting residential water heaters, its common practice in the electrical trade to use a two-wire, No. 12 cable, with a grounding conductor. Be certain the nameplate load rating on the water heater doesnt exceed the ampacity of the No. 12 cable. However, when wiring in this manner remember that the conductor colors in a No. 12 cable are usually black and white, which requires the electrician to re-mark the white conductor with black tape or paint it at any point where the white conductor is accessible or visible. This is to prevent someone from mistaking it for a grounded conductor. The grounding conductor, usually a bare copper conductor, must be connected to the frame of the water heater. The equipment manufacturer usually provides a green terminal screw
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FIGURE 33This shows the connections for a sectional range using one branch circuit.
located inside the junction box for this purpose. Figure 34 shows a diagram for a standard two-element water heater. Notice that the water heater doesnt require a grounded conductor, or neutral, to operate properly. Also noted is that the disconnect isnt required as long as the circuit breaker that supplies the branch circuit to the water heater is readily accessible. The water heater normally is connected by using a pigtail from the water heater to either a wall-mounted junction box or a single 240-volt, 30-ampere rated receptacle. As is the case with any larger appliance, never use the plug/receptacle as a disconnecting means for the appliance. The reason for not using the plug/receptacle for a disconnecting means on any large-load appliance is that larger appliances (ranges, dryers, dishwashers, and water heaters) have working amperage levels that are relatively high compared to smaller appliances, such as blenders and radios. Should someone use the plug as a disconnecting means and unplug a larger appliance while the load is applied, electrical arcing and serious injury due to burn or shock can result. The electrical current has a natural tendency to try and stay connected and will arc to itself. This effort causes the arcing to be exposed to the person holding the pigtail and most likely damaging the plug and/or receptacle.
Electric Space Heater Connections

Fixed electric space heaters are supplied from individual branch circuits rated at 15, 20, or 30 A. Because the heaters are considered to be continuous loads, the circuit current cant be over 80% of the wire ampacity. For example, a 20-A branch circuit shouldnt carry over 16 A (0.80 20 = 16). When a long cable supplies the heater, a larger-size cable may be needed to reduce the voltage drop and maintain the heater output.
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FIGURE 34This shows the connections to a standard two-element water heater.
Figure 35A shows a baseboard-type heater controlled by a two-pole line-voltage thermostat. A 240-V two-wire circuit with an ampacity of 20 amps supplies the heater. The typical two-pole line-voltage thermostat is rated at 5000 W, but the load should be limited to 80% of the rating (0.80 5000 = 4000 W.) Use a No. 12 copper wire rated at 20 A at a reduced ampacity of 16 A. The two-pole line-voltage thermostat wont normally control more than 3840 W (16 A 240 V = 3840 W). The same calculation made with a 230-V supply line would be 16 A 230 V = 3680 W. Thermostats are normally mounted on 2-inch 3-inch device boxes. In Figure 35A, a two-wire cable from the panelboard runs to the twopole line-voltage thermostat. Another two-wire cable runs from the two-pole line-voltage thermostat to the overheat switch on the heater. The overheat switch is a thermostat that runs the full length of the heater. One ungrounded conductor is connected in series with the overheat switch. The switch shuts the heater off if the temperature in the heater gets too high. This could happen, for example, if the heater were
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completely blocked off by draperies. The overheat switch is constructed as part of the heater to make the installation more safe. From the overheat switch, a wire runs to one connection of the heating element. The other wire from the two-pole line-voltage thermostat connects to the other terminal wire of the heating element within the heater. When the two-wire cable contains a grounding wire, the grounding wire is fastened to the heater frame.
FIGURE 35Space heaters are considered to be fixed appliances.
The low-voltage control system in Figure 35B uses a thermal relay to control the power to the heater. The thermal relay includes a transformer T, which steps 240 volts down to 24 volts. The low-voltage thermostat controls the flow of current through a resistance heater R. When the thermostat closes, it calls for heat and current flows through the resistance heater R. The heater is wound on the bimetallic strip constructed of two different metals. The resistance heater heats a bimetallic strip and causes it to bend and close the switch contacts of the thermal relay. When the room temperature rises, the thermostat opens. This action stops the flow of current
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through the resistance heater, which allows the bimetallic strip to cool. After the bimetallic strip cools, the switch contacts of the thermal relay open. Thus, the thermal relay silently controls the current flowing to the heater. As shown in the low-voltage control diagram in Figure 35B, the cable from the panelboard runs to the thermal relay. This is the point where the branch circuit connects to the transformers primary terminals. After the splice, one wire runs directly to the heating element while the other one is connected to a terminal on the switch of the thermal relay. From the thermal relay terminal a wire is connected to the overheat switch of the heater and then to the heating element. In this system, the thermal relay directly controls the power to the heater. The thermal relay could also be used to control a remotely located switch such as a relay or contactor. This flexibility permits placing the low-voltage thermostat and thermal relay in the most convenient places. It also permits the installation of short cables to the heater.
Circuit Protection
The NEC devotes two parts of Article 422 to the electrical installation and protection of appliances. Basically, the nameplate load rating determines the branch circuit rating. If the nameplate rating isnt available, then Article 422 dictates how the branch circuit should be sized. For small appliances whose rating is 13.3 amperes or less, the branch circuit rating may not exceed 20 amperes. If an appliance is rated over 13.3 and the branch-circuit maximum rating isnt marked on the appliance, the branch circuit rating may not exceed 150 percent of the estimated demand load. For household-type appliances with surface heating elements having a maximum demand of more than 60 amperes, the branch circuit must be split into two circuits, with overcurrent protection rated less than 50 amperes on either circuit. Electric heating appliances that use resistance-type heating elements that have a demand of more than 48 amperes must have the heating elements subdivided so that no one load is more than 48 amperes. The overcurrent protection device cant exceed 60 amperes on either circuit. An individual branch circuit must supply central heating equipment. Branch circuits that supply water heaters less than 120 gallons (household water heaters) must be rated at no less than 125 percent of the nameplate load demand on the water heater. A means of disconnecting appliances from all ungrounded conductors must be provided. For those permanently connected appliances (appliances that are fastened in place in one location) whose load doesnt exceed 300 volt-amperes (watts) or 1 8 horsepower, the overcurrent protection device may be used as the disconnecting means. For those permanently connected appliances, whose load does exceed 300 volt-amperes (watts) or 1 8 horsepower, the overcurrent protection device may be used as the disconnecting means as long as the overcurrent
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protection device is within sight of the appliance and can be locked in the open position. In the case of cord-and-plug-connected appliances, the cord-and-connector is an acceptable means of disconnect. However, the branch-circuit protection device should always be placed in the open position before disconnecting any appliance other than small portable appliances using the cord-and-plug method. Severe arcing, shock, or burns could result, in addition to component damage should a person unplug a large appliance while the load is applied.
Circuit Grounding
Lets review the two types of conductors used in a grounded circuit. First is the grounded conductor. This current-carrying circuit conductor is grounded at the service entrance and is called the neutral wire. Since its grounded, theres no voltage between the neutral wire and ground unless the wire is disconnected from the ground connection. Then any conducting material, including the human body, that completes the path from the grounded conductor or neutral to earth ground while the circuits energized will become part of the current-carrying conductor! The other conductor associated with grounding is the equipment-grounding conductor, usually called the ground or grounding wires. These conductors connect the non-circuit metal parts of electrical equipment to ground. These conductors dont conduct any electrical current unless a fault (short circuit) occurs in the circuit. This type of fault is called a ground fault. When a ground fault occurs, current flows from one of the non-grounded circuit conductors through the grounding wire to ground. The grounding wires place the metal parts of equipment at ground potential (the same as ground itself), thus making it reasonably safe to touch electrical equipment even when a ground fault exists.
Ground Faults
When a short circuit occurs in a circuit, it will usually cause a very high circuit current to flow. This high current normally causes the circuit protection device, whether a fuse or circuit breaker, to open. What happens if the current isnt high enough to blow a fuse or open the circuit breaker? For example, suppose the insulation between a hot wire and ground wire doesnt break down fully and develops only a leakage of current with a resistance of 240W. Thus,
120V 240W I = 0.5 A
Should this happen, 0.5 A of current flows from the ungrounded conductor through the parallel circuit created by the short circuit, to earth
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ground. The 15- or 20-A circuit breaker or fuse wont open because it hasnt been exposed to an excess of 15 or 20 amperes of current flow. It allows the 0.5 A to flow. It doesnt recognize that its a ground-fault current. If a person like the one in Figure 36 should touch the hot wire while also touching ground, that persons body would provide the same type of leakage path to ground. The leakage current wouldnt be high enough to trip the breaker, but it could be high enough to injure or kill the person. For that reason, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) is required in some areas for protection against ground faults. A GFCI is designed to trip when it senses a ground-fault current of only 0.005 A. This amount of current isnt enough to kill or even injure a person.
FIGURE 36The ground-fault circuit interrupter responds to the leakage current returning to a voltage source by a route other than the normal return wire. In this illustration, that route is through the workers body.
GFCI-Protected Circuits
As you know, the NEC requires that GFCIs be used in locations where a fault current would most likely occur. For a residence, GFCIs are required to protect the receptacles in the bathroom, kitchen countertops, wet bars, garages, and on the outside of the house, including swimming pool areas. To protect workers on construction jobs, GFCIs are required in most of the general-purpose circuits, especially in those circuits used to furnish power to hand-held power tools. The worker in Figure 36 would most likely be protected from electrical shock if the circuit that the electric saw connects to was protected by a GFCI device. There are three basic types of GFCI protection devicesGFCI receptacles, GFCI circuit breakers, and portable GFCIs. Figure 37 shows three styles of GFCI receptacles. The flush-mounted and surface-mounted styles are available in terminated or feed-through models. Terminated models are designed only to protect the one receptacle load from ground fault.
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Feed-through models are designed to protect the one receptacle load and all other receptacles that are installed downstream from that receptacle. However, the other receptacles must be connected to load side of the GFCI unit. The plug-in unit shown in Figure 38 is available only in a terminated model.
FIGURE 37The flush-mounted and surface-mounted models of circuit interrupters fit into the outlet boxes normally used to support and protect power receptacles. The receptacle into which its plugged supports the small plug-in model.
(Bottom photo courtesy of Leviton Manufacturing Co., Inc.)
The second type of GFCI is the GFCI circuit breaker. In this type, a circuit breaker and a GFCI are combined, providing both overcurrent and fault-current protection. The circuit-breaker switch may also be used as an on/off switch for the circuit.
72
Circuit breakers with GFCI capability are available in models that can be installed to replace most standard circuit breakers now in use. Examples of circuit breakers with GFCI protection are shown in Figure 38. Note that the devices shown also contain test buttons.
FIGURE 38GFCI Circuit Breakers
The third type of GFCI device is the portable unit. These devices incorporate both receptacles and circuit breakers. Youll most likely find these devices in use on construction sites, where the NEC requires their use. The ground-fault circuit in a device of this type may or may not be part of the circuit-breaker assembly.
Other Circuits
Signal Circuits
A chime controlled by push-button switches is one of the most common signal circuits thats installed in residential wiring. Figure 39 shows a circuit thats supplied by a small step-down control transformer. This transformer steps the 120 V down to between 12 and 20 V. Because the transformer power demand is very limited, the normal door chime transformer primary wires can be connected directly to a 15-A or 20-A lighting or general-purpose circuit without a special circuit protection. Small wiring referred to as bell wire, having very thin insulation, is generally used as conductors in these circuits. This wiring should be kept at least 2 inches from other wires to prevent currents from being induced into the bell wire by electromagnetic force, which may cause
73
unwanted control voltages. Many chimes are designed to sound two notes, one for the front door and one for the back door. Special pushbutton switches are used to activate the chimes.
FIGURE 39The transformer secondary connections for a door chime circuit are shown in both block diagram and schematic form. The transformer, shown as the low-voltage AC power source, could be replaced with DC battery packs for emergency systems.
Buzzers and doorbells were commonly installed before chimes became popular. Theyre similar to chimes in operation and require between 6 and 10 V to operate.
74
Communication Wiring
Computer/Internet connections, cable television, telephone, and audio speakers are all examples of communications systems now installed in modern homes. Communications circuits are often installed in a newly constructed residence in the same way as electrical branch circuits. Modern residential as well as commercial wiring jobs often demand that electricians install data cable for computers, cable for television, telephone wires, and speaker wire throughout a building. Wiring for communication systems is often specified on the wiring diagram to be installed and hooked up by the electrician. When faced with the job of installing communications wiring, its important to select the correct wire for each communication application and to have the skills necessary for installing and terminating the cables and connectors. As the world adapts to the interface of communications systems, the demand for residential installations is increasing rapidly. The electrician must now know how to identify cables and devices used to connect data communications such as computers, DVD, and satellite systems, along with coax cables for television, telephone cables, and all associated equipment and devices.
Telephone Wiring
Modern residences are often wired with built-in telephone connections throughout the dwelling. Computer Internet access, fax machines, and the demand for more than one voice line have all contributed to the increasing complexity of the typical residential telephone system. When a telephone company installs a telephone line at a residence, its connected to an enclosure called a demarcation box, shown in Figure 40. This box may be placed either inside or outside the building. Terminal blocks are usually located in the demarcation box. Terminal blocks (Figure 41) are devices that allow multiple lines to be connected from the demarcation box to multiple locations within the house or building. Think of the demarcation box/terminal block combination as a distribution point not unlike the service panel or branch-circuit distribution panel of the electrical system. Telephone cable is installed from the terminal block to the wall-mounted locations in the residence, at which point the residents may connect their individual telephone equipment. The wall-mounted locations are commonly referred to as telephone jacks. Special care must be taken in connecting the telephone cables to the telephone wall jacks, since the cable is much more fragile than the electrical cable that electricians are accustomed to installing. Carefully strip the insulation from the paired telephone cable, preferably using the proper stripping tool, or a stripping knife. Loosen the terminal screw marked Red and insert the red wire through the opening in the back of the jack. Wrap it around the terminal and carefully tighten the screw. The wire should be wrapped in a clockwise direction to avoid unwrapping it while tightening the screw terminal.
75
FIGURE 40This shows a demarcation box with the access panel open and with the access panel replaced.
+756
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76
FIGURE 41A terminal block allows multiple jacks to be installed. This style of block is mounted separately from the demarcation box.
Do the same with the green wire. If only one line is being installed, youll need only to install the red and green conductors. The black and yellow conductors are for a second line if one is to be installed. An example is shown in Figure 42. After the telephone company has connected the demarcation box to the telephone service line, test the telephones for proper operation, and then install the cover on each telephone jack. As mentioned previously, a new residential wiring diagram may include wiring instructions for the communication system conductors as well as the conventional electrical wiring.
77
* * )+ 4, 4-,
; ;- 9 /4 /4--
FIGURE 42Conductors are simply attached with the screws according to the color code.
Telephone cables may also be routed through walls by drilling holes in the wall studs, or installed over ceiling joists. However, telephone wire is much more delicate and must be handled, protected and supported accordingly. The NEC covers the installation of communications wires in Article 800. It states that all communications wires should be installed separately from light and power circuits unless theyre contained within or permanently separated by a cable or raceway. If theyre not contained, at least 2 inches of space must be maintained between the electrical and communications conductors. Telephone cables are constructed with color-coded conductor pairs. Cables range in sizes including 2-, 3-, 4-, 6-, 12-, 25-, and 50-conductor pairs. The numbered sizes correspond to the number of pairs within a cable. For example, a two-pair conductor has four individual wires; a three-pair conductor has six wires, and so on. Telephone conductors are also categorized by the speed of the equipment theyre designed to serve. When speeds such as those associated with computers and other data equipment are involved, the requirement to reduce interference and cross talk is much higher. Cross talk is noise crossing over from one line to another when the lines are installed in the same direction next to
78
one another and dont have enough space separating them. To avoid cross talk, modern telephone cables contain only twisted pairs of conductors. Twisted pair means that the wires in each conductor-pair are evenly twisted around each other. Communications wires can carry AC and DC volts and should be disconnected from the circuit before working with the lines. The current flows when the telephone rings, so taking the telephone off the hook is also an option. Another way to avoid electrical shock is to connect the inside lines prior to the telephone company connecting the outside or final circuit in the demarcation box.
Wiring for Cable Television

Cable television is another type of communications equipment that requires special communications wiring. Old-style cable television wiring is normally 75-ohm coaxial cable. Coaxial cable consists of outer insulation, a braided section, an inner insulation, and a center copper conductor. Normally the coaxial cable is installed throughout the residence, then terminated on its own terminals at a wall plate. Terminating the cable, which may or may not be part of the electricians job, involves installing a connector. When stripping the cable to install a connector, use the proper coax-stripping tool. The prepared cable should resemble the one shown in Figure 43A. After the end is prepared, install the connector by twisting it onto the prepared coax cable end. The connector contains internal threads that allow it to be threaded onto the coax cable. An installed coax connector will resemble the one shown in Figure 43B. NEC requirements for installing coaxial cable are covered in Article 820 and are basically the same as those used to correctly install telephone cables. New technology in residential television reception, computer access, and data communication calls for continuous training on the part of the electrician. Digital and DVD signals are now common in residences. The cables and connectors used to connect to this new technology require special stripping and installation tools, as well as specialized training. Its recommended that as you encounter these types of installation, you locate the proper training and tools to properly complete the assigned task.
79
FIGURE 43Use the correct dimensions (A) when stripping coaxial cable. The connector should look like (B) when finished.
Smoke, Heat, and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Smoke, heat, and carbon monoxide detectors are installed in residences to warn the occupants of the presence of fire or toxic fumes. Heat detectors are now being installed in residences in addition to smoke detectors. Theyre not designed to replace smoke detectors. Carbon monoxide detectors are new on the detector scene but are becoming quite common in the design and installation of systems in residential dwellings because of the increasing usage of natural gas as an energy source in homes. The National Fire Protection Association Standard No. 72 covers the minimum requirements and installation of heat and smoke detectors in homes as well as any fire warning equipment. Standard No. 720 covers carbon monoxide detection and protection. The two types of common smoke detectors are the photoelectronic type and the ionization type. Most detectors have an indicator light that shows that the detector is receiving power. Likewise, the detectors are commonly equipped with a test button that allows the homeowner to periodically test the unit for proper operation. Contrary to some belief, smoke detectors wont sense
80
heat. Because of this, its recommended that homeowners also incorporate heat detectors into their fire safety protection system. When installing smoke detectors, the following guidelines provide a minimum of protection:
1. 2. 3. 4. Always install smoke detectors on every level of a residence. Always install at least one smoke detector in every sleeping room of the house. If installing detectors in new construction, always interconnect smoke detectors so that when one operates, all will operate. Make sure that the detectors are UL listed.
Keep in mind that these are only minimum requirements. The ideal protection system in a home will include an array of intruder alarms, smoke detectors, heat detectors, and if natural gas is present, carbon monoxide detectors.
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8 9016-
4-, 1 6-4+ -+6 914-
FIGURE 44When smoke detectors are wired in this manner, it causes all of them to sound if smoke is detected in an area.
Now take a few moments to review what youve learned by completing Self-Check 4.
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Self-Check 4
1. General-purpose circuits are usually _______ -conductor circuits that distribute 120 V. 2. An electric dryer, 4-wire receptacle is normally rated at _______ amperes. 3. The minimum number of small-appliance circuits required in a kitchen is _______. 4. List the three groups into which the NEC classifies appliances. 5. True or False? Pigtail cords can be used as a disconnecting means for fixed appliances. 6. The neutral wire is a _______ conductor. 7. A standard circuit breaker will trip when a _______ _______ occurs. 8. _______ _______ is used to deliver traditional cable television service. Check your answers with those on page 83.
83
Self-Check Answers
1
1. service drop 2. switch 3. series 4. alternating 5. 9 (17 8 = 9) 6. grounding 7. load or equipment 8. Any two of the following are correct: Emergency power, Hazardous area, Alarm, Communication, Control 9. explosion-proof 1. two 2. 30 3. two 4. Fixed, Portable, Stationary 5. False 6. grounded 7. short circuit 8. Coaxial cable 1. 6 2. True 3. The bathroom 4. The master bedroom 5. A switch should be equipped with a pilot light when the switch is out of sight of the light it controls.
2
1. True 2. neutral 3. disconnect 4. 10 5. False 6. plastic separators 7. grounding
Examination
ONLINE EXAMINATION
For the online exam, you must use this EXAMINATION NUMBER:
00603701
When youre confident that youve mastered the material in your studies, you can complete your examination online. Follow these instructions:
1. 2. 3. 4. Write down the eight-digit examination number shown in the box above. Click the Back button on your browser. Click the Take an Exam button near the top of the screen. Type in the eight-digit examination number.

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Study Unit

Wiring Electrical Circuits

INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

LOCATING RESIDENTIAL DEVICES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

GENERAL CIRCUIT WIRING CONSIDERATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

SELF-CHECK ANSWERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 EXAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Parts of an Electrical System

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Series and Parallel Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

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Wiring Electrical Circuits

Two- and Three-Wire Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

FIGURE 5This shows examples of two- and three-wire circuits.

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Circuit Description by Load Type

Circuit Description by Function

Wiring Electrical Circuits

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Wiring Electrical Circuits

FIGURE 7This shows a control circuit schematic for an air conditioner.

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

INSTALLING SERVICE-ENTRANCE COMPONENTS

Sizing and Installing Service-Entrance Conductors

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

FIGURE 9This shows service-entrance cable support requirements.

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Installing the Meter Base

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Connecting the Service-Entrance Conductors to the Meter Base

Wiring Electrical Circuits

TWO HOT CONDUCTORS

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring from the Meter to the Service Panel

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Sizing and Mounting the Service Panel

Sizing and Installing the Main Breaker

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Installing Circuit Breakers

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Balancing Circuit Loads

Installing a Grounding Electrode

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Grounding and Bonding of Service and Equipment

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Table 1 GROUNDING ELECTRODE CONDUCTOR FOR ALTERNATING-CURRENT SYSTEMS

Wiring Electrical Circuits

Lets work through several example problems using Table 1.

Wiring Electrical Circuits

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