"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator Project

A pipe dream is a fantastic hope or plan that is generally regarded as being nearly impossible to achieve. - Wikipedia Hi folks, I thought that "Rick's Pipe Dream" would be a very appropriate title for this Project for the following 2 reasons: 1. As seen in the above quote, the reality of a useful magnetic motor -generator has been something that has eluded mankind to this point in time. Inventors come, and inventors go, and along the way there have been several inventors who have promised to show us a working magnetic motor. At least one of these inventors (Howard Johnson) was successful at obtaining a patent for his ideas (US Patent # 4,151,431). He filed the patent application in 1973, and it was finally granted on April 24, 1979 - some 6 years later. But wait a minute why is it that his magnetic motor never went to manufacture? Why is it that, 30 years later, each and every one of us does not have a Howard Johnson motor-generator powering our homestead? To most logical thinkers, it would seem that perhaps Howard Johnson's ideas just didn't pan out. His ideas had to work, or he would not have been granted a patent. But did he ever build a working magnetic motor that could be considered powerful enough to serve a truly useful purpose? Some say yes, and claim to have seen such a machine, but then where is it? If the claims are true, then it would seem that his great invention has been purposely kept from us by those interests who seek to suppress inventors and inventions which are capable of bringing about significant change that threatens the status quo. What the case may actually be is really anyone's guess at this point in time, and Howard Johnson is now dead and gone. He wrote a nice book titled "The Secret World of Magnets," before dying, and that does have some interesting theory and photos in it, but no photo of a magnetic motor-generator. So what are we to think? In looking over his patent drawings, his concepts seem to be very capable of working, but we have all been told time and again that no one has ever been able to build a working motor-generator using the patent information. That may have changed recently, though, when an experimenter calling himself "MYLOW" began posting videos of a purported Howard Johnson magnetic motor replication on YouTube. Mylow seemed like your "average Joe" type of guy, and came across as being sincere, but recently admitted to faking the results shown in some of his videos. Several people have attempted to replicate MYLOW's build, but apparently with no success at achieving continuous rotation. It is quite unfortunate how the MYLOW saga has played out. What is fortunate, though, is that Howard Johnson's patent is long expired, which means that anyone can now build motors based on his concepts. What I hope to show in this thread is that it is, in fact, possible to build a useful magnetic motor using several of Howard Johnson's principles of operation, and adding some of my own to improve the outcome. I will be doing so in a build that is totally different than MYLOW's setup, and I will thoroughly document every step of my build in such a way as to make it very easy for anyone to replicate what I have done. I will list all materials used, and their sizes and specifications. My build will be made entirely with materials readily available, rather than with the obscure and unavailable parts as used by MYLOW. Many of the parts will be found locally at any hardware store or building supply. I have intentionally designed my build for ease of construction, using simple tools that many homeowners, hobbyists, and back yard mechanics already have on hand. The unit will be light weight, yet strong and durable. With care, it will last a lifetime. The design is fully open and revealing, and when I show photos and video of it there will be absolutely no question as to what makes it work. 2. The other reason that I chose the title, "RICK'S PIPE DREAM," will become apparent when you view my first photo. Seeing will be believing, if I am successful. I have already spent a great deal of time in designing and building my prototype, and I am presenting this as an open source project with full permission to duplicate my build. I will show you how to do it, step by step, with absolutely nothing left unanswered. In a week or less, if you choose to build this, your magnetic motor test apparatus will be completed. I

can't promise that yours will work, because you may not build it correctly. But if you take reasonable care to duplicate the details precisely as I lay them out for you, I do believe that you will be very happy with your results. I have already done many preliminary tests with various magnets which show great promise, and I am currently nearing completion of my build. It is my hope that many replicators will join this project and help to move it forwards. With many people working with the same build, the advantages are obvious what works for one will work for all. Those who wish to join the project, and who wish to be placed on the Pipe Dream e-mail list, should contact me at rickandlezel@hotmail.com Updates of this pdf, and fast breaking news will be sent first to all e-mail list recipients. I always send e-mail as blind carbon copy, so no one else on the list will ever see your address. I sincerely thank you for your interest in my project, and for any polite comments that you wish to offer. Comments can be sent to my e-mail address or left in the comments section below my YouTube videos. Best wishes to all who have taken the time to read this introduction, Rick a.k.a Rickoff

Table of Contents
Introduction.. pg 01 Preliminary assembly pg 04 Construction: Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step Step #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 #10 #11 #12 #13 Frame ends.. Wheel support frame members. Axle mounting plates.. Preparing and mounting the wheel. Installing the leveling apparatus. Stator arm locking collar.. Stator arm swing arm. Stator arm vertical angle adjuster Stator arm horizontal angle adjuster.. Leveling and adjusting Constructing a flywheel. Making up magnet spacers.. Preparing the timing track base pg 06 pg 08 pg 13 pg 28 pg 34 pg 40 pg 47 pg 55 pg 60 pg 67 pg 76 See part 2 document See part 2 document

Planned construction steps currently underway. See part 2 document Pipe Dream video series on YouTube pg 99 Parts list.. sorry, not completed yet*

* I am holding off on compiling the parts list for three reasons: 1. I havent had enough time on my hands to do that yet. 2. All parts used are already stated in each construction phase. 3. I may decide to change some part specifications before the project is complete.

Preliminary assembly of test stand

The previous page shows a photo of my test apparatus in its early stage of development. It was pretty much pieced together in the photo, although I had not yet attached the stator arm. The frame is made of 1 inch PVC pipe and fittings, so is quite lightweight, yet is of sufficient strength for my purposes. You can see that my rusty, salvaged junk Huffy 26 inch steel bike wheel is mounted between two steel plates attached to the PVC frame. And that's it, basically - a very simple and straight forward build. You might ask why I would choose to use this junk wheel, and the answer is simple - it was free. I love to make use of free parts whenever possible. The wheel rim was bent when I found it, but I straightened it out enough so that there is only about 1/8 inch of runout from side to side. The bearings aren't all that great either - I cleaned them and applied fresh wheel bearing grease, but it seems that at least one of the bearings has a flat on it, as I can hear an audible imperfection as the wheel rotates which sounds almost as if there were a grain of sand stuck in there. I'll see if I can round up replacement bearings, but will go ahead with my tests regardless. I figure that if my rig works well with this wheel then it can only do better with a good wheel and bearings. You will want to start looking for your wheel. You may get lucky and find one at your local recycling center, or find a good wheel on a used bike selling inexpensively in a local newspaper or on craigslist classifieds: jobs, housing, personals, for sale, services, community, events, forums on the Internet. I wanted to build something that anyone could duplicate easily with minimal skills and very few tools needed, and at a reasonably low cost. It had to be sturdy enough to be practical and long lasting, light enough for one person to pick up and tote around, and versatile enough to allow for many uses. One could adapt this idea for use as a Bedini SSG, a mechanical motor, a pulse motor, a permanent magnetic motor, or perhaps some other use that I haven't thought of yet. What's nice is that this rig can be used horizontally as shown in the photo, or it can be tipped up to be used vertically as well. I have added some leveling apparatus to allow leveling in either plane. Of course the unit can also be turned over so that the opposite side of the wheel can be used for additional experimentation or enhancement. I haven't used any cement to bond the PVC pipe and fittings of the frame. I wanted to keep things easy to disassemble so as to make alterations simple and quick, so I used #6 x 1/2" pan head sheet metal screws, which will still allow for rapid disassembly of any section as becomes necessary. If you would like to build this, and want to pick up all the PVC materials needed for the frame, here is what you will need: Three 10 ft lengths of 1 inch, schedule 40, PVC pipe. Sixteen 1 inch PVC elbows. Sixteen 1 inch PVC tees.

Parts notes: I bought my 10 ft PVC pipes at Home Depot, where they are currently on sale at $2.37 each. The elbows and tees come in contractor bags of 5 at a reduced price of $2.66 per bag for tees and $2.15 per bag for elbows at Lowes, so if you buy them there you will need three bags of each plus one loose elbow and one loose tee, which cost $0.48 and $0.59 respectively. Therefore, total cost for the PVC parts listed above is $22.61. Additional parts used for the construction procedures will be shown as required for the various construction steps where needed.

Step One of construction:

When building this, please take care to cut all pipes to the exact lengths specified for best results. A miter box and miter saw are needed for precise cuts, and you can find an inexpensive plastic miter box and miter saw combination at must building supply stores. Measure each piece carefully, and mark your pipe with a sharpened number 2 pencil. Lay the pipe in the miter box, align the mark with the miter

box groove, and place the saw in the groove and against the pipe. Then measure from the side of blade to the pipe end to be certain that the cut will be correct for the desired dimension. This will ensure precision and avoid wasted pipe pieces. After cutting a piece, debur both ends of the piece, as well as the end remaining from the 10 ft pipe. Use a flat file (or borrow your wife or girlfriend's emery board fingernail file) to debur the pipe ends after each cut. Do not file or sand the surface of the pipe ends to make them fit easily in the elbows and tees. They are already sized correctly, and should fit snugly. I suggest that you cut all your pipes first, before beginning assembly. When ready to assemble, start with section D and place a tee (part C) on each end. Lay a board on your floor, place the end of one tee on the board, and hold the assembly vertically. Place a small block of wood on top of the upper tee and tap on the block with a hammer until section D is seated fully into the tees. Lay the assembly on the floor and check to see if the center projection of both tees touches the floor at the same time when rolled over. If not, turn one of the tees so that they are aligned properly. Install a part B inside each end of the assembly and tap these in to seat them in the manner aforementioned. Then add part A elbows at each end and seat them. Lay the assembly on the floor and make certain that both elbows lay flat against the floor in alignment with each other. Aligning this way makes the remaining assembly steps easier. Next, repeat this procedure to make three more identical assemblies. When that work is completed, use parts E to join the assemblies together, again using care to seat the pipes properly. When finished, each of your two end assemblies will look like the one pictured above. Remember, do not use any cement to bind the joints. You will later be using number 6 x 1/2 inch pan head sheet metal screws to stabilize the pipe joints, but not until the entire test stand is complete. Thanks for your interest. I hope you found this first step of construction easy to follow and thoroughly explained. My aim is to make these construction procedures so simple that a third grade student could follow them with no problem. One does not need to be a skilled craftsman to build this, and if you follow directions carefully I think you will be pleased with the finished product.

Step # 2 of Construction techniques

In this second step of construction, I show how to build the pieces that connect the two ends together. This step is shown in two parts, part 2A and part 2B. The first photograph shows the individual pieces as joined together to make up the front and back rails, and the wheel support members, while the second shows how these assemblies are then joined together. Between the two photos, a chart will appear that identifies the various parts and their dimensions.

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Please also note that while PVC pipe is manufactured to standard dimensions, elbows and tees from different manufacturers can be of differing overall dimensions. This should not be a problem if you buy all your tees and elbows at the same store, and verify that they are identical. Even if your tees and elbows are differently sized than mine, your frame will still go together properly. You may, however, need to adjust the lengths of parts G so that when step 2B is completed (as shown below) the measured distance from center to center of parts H will equal 6+3/4 inches. This measurement is necessary for proper alignment of the metal plates that will later attach to parts H in step #3. Likewise, if your overall dimensions are skewed slightly because of using different tees and elbows than mine, you may also need to adjust the lengths of parts I accordingly, making them shorter or longer, as necessary. For your information, my Tees measure 3+5/32" long on the outside, and have a seating depth of 7/8". My elbows are 2+3/8" in height (placed with one opening flat on a table top, and measuring from the table surface to the top of the tee, across the open face. The seating depth of my tees is 15/16".

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Construction Step #3 details:

The following 14 photos show how the axle mounting plates are prepared and then mounted to the wheel support frame members. The plates that I used were found at Lowe's Home Center. They are referred to as "Code Protection Plates," are part number 214828, and sell for $3.28 each. They measure 5" x 8" and are 1/16" thick. You will normally find them in the lumber section with other framing plates. These are used in walls to protect hidden electrical wiring and water pipes from damage should a homeowner attempt to drill or drive a nail into the wall at that location. The plates each have two sharp prongs projecting from one side, and you will need to remove these as shown in the instructions. Don't forget these sharp prongs are there when handling them, and warn the cashier before handing the plates to him or her. You will need two of these plates, and eight each of the following attachment hardware: 1/4" -20 x 2" long cap screws 1/4" -20 hex nuts 1/4" flat washers 1/4" lock washers If you can not find these particular plates, look for a plate of similar dimensions, but do not use anything with lesser thickness. While only 1/16" thick, these plates are rigid enough to support the axle nicely. If you have a work bench and steel jaw vise, I suggest that you use your vise to hold the plates as they are being worked upon. The following pictures show the necessary steps undertaken using minimal tools for the most part, and makeshift 2 x 4 work supports, since many people will probably not have a well equipped workshop. Where a handheld Moto Tool grinder is shown, a flat file can be substituted for deburring sharp edges. When drilling the plates, always drill slowly. I was not able to show it in the photos, but while actually drilling I used a second and larger Vise Grip tool, clamped onto the plates, to hold them steady. Please, never attempt to drill an object while holding it with your hand. I know this is common sense to the mechanically inclined of you, but to those not aware of the danger - a drill bit can suddenly seize up part way through the plate (especially if excessive drilling pressure is used) and the result will be very unfriendly to your hand. This kind of accident can break a finger, snap a tendon, or severely cut your hand. So please work safely. Clamp the plates in a vise, or use a large Vise Grip tool clamped tightly to the plates, and hold the vise grips - not the plates. Alternatively, you can temporarily drive a nail in half way, through a plate hole, into each of the 2 x 4's, and hold one of the 2 x 4's with your hand to steady it. When drilling as instructed in the following steps, drill slowly by letting the drill bit take time to do its work. Don't be in a hurry. Drill all the way through the two clamped plates and into the 2 x 4. Realign the plates before each new hole is drilled. FOLLOW ALL OF THESE STEPS CAREFULLY:

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Please note before tightening nuts: Install 1/4" lock washers between the flat washers and the nuts. Sorry I left that out in the photo.

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Repeat the last two steps for the remaining plate. When done, assemble all frame members together but do not cement or install fasteners in pipes. You may wonder why I advise attaching the plates so that they butt up against the elbows, rather than mounting them at the center of the support member pipes. I arranged it this way for three reasons. First, butting the plates against the elbows ensures good plate and axle alignment. Secondly, since the wheel extends beyond the frame at one side, this makes for open and easy magnet placement and stator viewing. Third, if the wheel is used in a vertical orientation, the stand can rest on the long side opposite from where the axle plates are mounted. The wheel can also be set vertically by placing the stand on either of the shorter ends, but the long side's wider stance offers even better stability. SG users, however, may want to mount the axle plates at the center of the plate supports so that each corner member of the frame is equidistant from the wheel rim, as this could more easily facilitate mounting of multiple coils. If mounting at the center of the plate supports, I suggest that the axle hole in one of the plates be drilled slightly larger than the axle, as this will allow for easier and optimal alignment of the axle and wheel to the frame.

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You are now ready to mount the wheel between the metal plates that were prepared and installed on the frame. First, let me say a few words about the size and type of wheel that I chose. I found this wheel free, since the bike it was on had been thrown into a scrap metal bin at the local recycling center, but I did not take this particular bike simply because it was all that was available. I took it because it met my qualifying factors. First of all, I wanted a large diameter wheel of 26 to 28 inches, and this bike had 26 inch wheels. Actually, the true diameter of the wheel alone is about 22.5 inches. Bike wheels are specified according to the tire size, which in this case was 26". A large wheel magnetic motor has a better chance of succeeding than a small one, and this is because less force is required at the perimeter of a large wheel to rotate the wheel. This is true because of the additional leverage provided at that distance from the axle. If you can find a used 26 inch wheel that appears to rotate well, and with little if any runout, by all means grab it. If we can duplicate our builds to the same specs, then test results achieved by one can be achieved by all. If you go with a different size wheel, please let me know your tire size (marked on the tire sidewall, same as with automobiles) so I can make note of it on my spec sheet. Please note that my wheel came from the front of a Huffy bike, and has a 5/16" axle that is 5+1/4" (5.25") long. I priced a brand new replacement wheel at a local bike shop, and that was only $25, which isn't bad at all. I'll probably pick one up later, but this old junk wheel will serve the purpose for experimentation's sake. Secondly, I wanted a steel wheel rather than one of aluminum or other non-magnetic material. My reason for wanting a steel wheel is twofold: 1. Magnets are easily placed on a steel wheel without need of gluing, taping, or otherwise attaching them, and they will stay in place nicely (provided of course that you don't allow your stator magnet to come too close to, or in contact with them). This method also allows for the rotor magnets (the magnets on the wheel) to be easily repositioned for various experimental reasons. 2. Howard Johnson actually specified, in his magnetic motor patent, use of a permeability plate beneath the rotor magnets. While high permeability plate material such a Netic Conetic, or MuMetal, are considered the best such materials, they are expensive. The steel bicycle wheel, which is chrome plated, also offers a fair degree of permeability, so it makes sense to use a wheel of this material. I strongly advise against any use of aluminum in your build, as aluminum has a really weird effect on strong magnets, which is detrimental to movement. I will post a demonstration of that effect soon in a brief video so that you will understand what I am talking about if you don't already know. Prepping the wheel: Remove your wheel from the front of the bike (if it is currently attached) by removing the outside nuts on the axle. Hang on to the nuts don't throw them out - as you will be using them later. Pull the wheel off the slots at the bottom of the forks to remove it from the bike. Next, deflate the tire by removing the valve stem cap and inserting a small tool, drill shank, or nail into the stem opening to depress the center pin, which will allow the air to escape. After all air is exhausted, remove one side of the tire from the rim by prying it out with a flat but blunt tool (no need to damage the tube, as it might come in handy at some future time) and then running the tool around the circumference of the wheel. Take the tube out next, and then remove the remainder of the tire in the same manner as above. If this is a used bike, you should clean and relubricate the bearings. To do that, remove both of the remaining nuts. These are the wheel bearing retaining and adjustment nuts, and in many cases they have a shaped surface at the inside which provides one of the two surfaces that the ball bearings ride upon. With one of these nuts removed, you should be able to then pull the axle out the other side and remove the wheel bearings from their seats. Some bearings, like the Huffy, have ball bearings set into a cage, which makes removal simple. Others may not have a cage, and if this is the case use special care not to lose any of the small ball bearings. Pick the bearings out, catch them in a clean paper towel or cloth rag, and set aside. Wipe the old grease from the bearing seats, and inspect the seats for roughness. If they look to be good, then apply a fresh coating of wheel bearing grease to the seats with a clean finger. You can get a small quantity of such grease at your local auto supply store. Use a high quality lithium based grease, either green or white. Later on I will talk about some other specialty lubricants that may also be used. The old grease can be cleaned off the bearings by first wiping them off with a clean, lint free cloth and

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then washing them with alcohol. Let them air dry - don't blow them with an air gun. Then place the bearings back into the seats and apply another course of grease over them. Clean the axle shaft nicely, reinsert it from the side you pulled it from, and reinstall the cleaned and greased outer seats and/or nuts. Adjust the bearing nuts up finger tight for now, and you are ready to mount the wheel. Even if you bought a brand new wheel, it is wise to check and make sure that it was greased at the factory. Assemblers make mistakes, and you don't want to mount an ungreased wheel and ruin the bearings. Mounting the wheel: Go to your local hardware store and get 4 hexagon jam nuts that match the thread on your axle. Jam nuts are not nearly as thick as regular nuts. Take one of the outer axle mounting nuts with you, and match the thread size and pitch by turning it onto a cap screw from a bin at the store, and then buy nuts of that size and thread pitch. Note that if your wheel has a 3/8 axle, it is likely that the threads are not 3/8-24, which is a common fine thread size. For some strange reason, bike manufacturers use 3/8-26 threaded axles and nuts. If this is what you have, you can either adjust the lengths of PVC Part I (shown in Construction step 2A) to obtain the correct spacing of the axle mounting plates, or purchase a hardened 3/8-24 threaded steel rod which can be cut to the correct length and used to replace your axle. Also buy 4 fender washers of your axle size. Fender washers have an extra large diameter, but same thickness as a regular flat washer. Place a jam nut on both ends of the axle, and turn these in until they rest against the bearing adjustment nuts. Now tip your frame assembly up into a vertical wheel mounting position (vertical, just like on the bike). Insert your hands in between the two plates and push to spread those outwards a bit. Measure to see that there is enough clearance between them for the axle to be inserted. Next, place the remaining two jam nuts on the axle ends and thread them in just enough so that the amount of axle protruding from each end equals the thickness of one fender washer plus one of your original outer nuts, plus 1/16" for the mounting plate. This is so that when installed and tightened, the outer nuts will sit flush with the axle ends. Place a fender washer over each end of the axle, lift the wheel into your frame, insert one end of the axle into a plate center hole, then align the other axle end with the remaining plate hole and push the plate onto the axle. Install the remaining two fender washers, and the original outer nuts. Thread the nuts up hand tight, then place adjusting wrenches on the nuts at both sides of the fender washers. Turn the nuts to lock the axle to the plates. Adjusting the bearings: Hold the wheel rim in your hand and try to move it from side to side. If you notice any free-play wobble, turn one of the bearing adjustment nuts in just a little tighter and recheck the side play. You want to eliminate all wobble, but be careful not to over tighten the adjustment nut any more than necessary to remove the wobble, as this would slow rotation and be hard on the bearings. When adjusted properly, hold each adjustment not steady while you cinch up the remaining jam nuts against them to lock their positions. Done with the wheel mounting!

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Construction Step #4 - Aligning and tightening frame members

Find yourself a 1" x 5" X 3ft long board that is straight as an arrow and cut off squarely at the ends. Sight down the long edge, when selecting the board, to check for straightness. Lay the long edge on a level surface such as a tabletop or workbench, or place it upon a 4 ft long carpenter's level to ensure it is not warped. Check it with a carpenter's square to make certain the ends are squared. If the ends need squaring and you don't have a table saw, radial arm saw, or a wide enough miter box and saw to square the ends, go to your local building supply and purchase the board, and have them true the ends for you. Most places won't even charge for doing that. Once you have your board in hand, lay it on top of the frame as shown in the photo above, so that is spans both ends. If each of the elbows and tees on the upper front rail is touching the bottom edge of the board, the rail is well aligned and ready for the tees and elbows to be drilled. If the center portion of the rail is sagging, first make sure the frame ends are tapped down to seat the pipes in their connectors. If the center is still sagging, use a hammer to tap the central tees up just enough so they are flush against the board edge. If the rail is bowed up at the center, and the two short pipes dropping down from the tees are fully seated in the tees and in the elbows beneath them, then tap the end tees of the rail up just enough to straighten the rail against the board edge. Once the upper front rail is well aligned, drill into each of the four tees of that rail in the manner shown in the Step 4C photo (2nd below) and drive in the screws. I used a 3/32" drill bit and #4 X 1/2" Phillips head sheet metal screws. I would have preferred using square drive head screws rather than the Phillips, but couldn't locate them locally and I was in a hurry. Square drive head screws can be driven in nicely with a driver tip inserted in an electric drill, while small Phillips head screws do not tend to drive well with a driver tip drill attachment, as the driver tip tends to lose traction in the screw head because of the taper design, and then damages the head and wastes the screw. If you want to use a Phillips driver tip in your drill, I suggest using #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws, as the larger size will drive better. If you go with the #6 screws, use a #32 pilot drill size. The #4 screws are better driven in by hand using a well fitting Phillips screwdriver, but if you go that route then wear a glove on your driving hand, and don't try to drive all of the screws in one day. You can get the square drive head #6 screws by the hundred at McMaster-Carr for $2.83 a pack McMaster-Carr the #1 driver bit for your drill is 50 cents McMaster-Carr and a #32 drill is $1.12 McMaster-Carr I'll definitely go with these square drive head screws for a repeat build, as they will make the job easier. After you align, drill, and drive screws into the upper front rail, move your board to the upper back rail and repeat the above procedure. After finishing the back rail, move your board to the left end of the frame and place the board end flat against the floor with the long edge against the tees as shown in the photo below.

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The board edge should touch both tees. If not, move the frame enough to align it. Once aligned, drill the upper left front elbow and drive screws into it. Do the same operation at the back corner of the left side, then at the back corner of the right side. Do not drill and fasten the elbows of the right front, as this section needs to be easily removed to assemble the stator arm upon it. Your screw drivings should look something like the ones in the Step #4C photo below.

With the above work completed, turn the stand upside down and repeat these procedures, keeping in mind that the stator arm will be

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mounted later on the section which is now at the right rear side of the stand, and you dont want to drill or fasten that section. Each screw that is driven in helps to strengthen and hold the alignment of the framework. Keep going until all the tees and elbows are fastened, except for the stator mounting section. When done, leave the frame in its upside down position for step #5, the installation of the leveling apparatus, which follows in the next section.

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Construction Step #5 - Installing the leveling apparatus

The first picture shows the parts and tools used in making up and installing the levelers.

The screws are 1/4"-20 x 2+1/2" carriage bolts. I would actually have preferred using 2+3/4" or 3 carriage bolts, but couldn't find that length locally with a continuous thread the full length. McMaster-Carr does have it, but only in a quantity of 100, so I opted for the local 2+1/2" bolts at the time of construction. The rubber items are protective chair leg tips having a 5/8" diameter opening which is 5/8" deep. The washers are 1/4" flat washers, and I just realized that only four are actually required for this set of levelers. I bought 8 washers because I am installing a second set of levelers for a vertical orientation of the frame. The four items above the washers are 3/8" long pieces of 1/2" inside diameter PVC pipe, which has a 5/8" outside diameter, and because of that they can be inserted down into the bottom of the rubber tip bores. The head of the carriage bolt will be placed on top of the PVC piece, and the hot glue gun, shown at upper right of the photo, will be used to fill the remaining rubber tip bore. The idea of the PVC piece is to raise the bolt up 3/8" in the bore so that less glue is needed, but a shorter piece (say in length) provides firmer retention of the carriage bolt head if you dont mind using a bit more glue. After the glue is applied, a washer is slipped on and pushed down to the rubber tip, and then two 1/4" -20 nuts are threaded down to the washer. The first nut should just contact the washer, and not be forced down as it could pop the rubber tip off the carriage bolt head. The second nut is used to bind and lock the two nuts together. A 13/64" drill bit is used to drill the frame, and the 1/4" - 20 tap and tap handle shown at top left of the above photo is used to tap the drilled hole with threads that will match the carriage bolt. The actual steps are shown below.

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From left to right, the PVC piece is inserted, the bolt head is placed above the PVC piece, the hot glue is inserted until flush with the top of the rubber foot, and the washer and nuts are placed and locked, ready for installation. Don't touch hot glue in its melted state, as it will definitely burn your fingers. Any spills or excess glue can be picked off or trimmed away with a knife after waiting 30 seconds or so for it to set. Hold the bolt straight up while the hot glue is inserted, and until it sets.

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When drilling, as shown below, remember that you want the levelers installed in what will be the bottom of the frame. The frame is symmetrical, of course, so it may not matter to you which is top and which is bottom, unless one side of your wheel is in better condition like mine is, and then you will want that side at the top. Be sure that you drill all the way through and out the other side of the tees, and that you have the drill aimed straight down.

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Next, you are ready to tap the threads into the drilled holes.

Lastly, the leveler bolts are inserted and are turned down until the nuts are against the tee surface. Always use a wrench for this purpose, and for adjustment of the levelers. Never turn the rubber feet, as they will come loose from the carriage bolts. You will find that tapping the holes from opposite sides creates a binding effect that eliminates the need for an adjustment locknut.

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In the actual leveling process, remember that you are leveling the wheel - not the frame. To do this accurately, first make certain that there is no perceptible wheel wobble. This should have been eliminated when you mounted the wheel, but check it again before leveling. If all is well, place a carpenters bubble level across the wheel rim at the front of the stand. Be sure the level only rests on two contact points of the rim, and not on any spokes. Begin adjusting the front levelers at whichever end of the level is lower, until the bubble reads level. Then place the level in a front to rear orientation and adjust the levelers as needed. Keep checking in both directions until you have it

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right. If all four rubber feet are down onto the floor and the wheel is level, you have succeeded. I found that my 18 inch long aluminum bubble level could be placed on the rim at the front of the stand, and then the wheel rotated to the front-to-rear orientation, which makes the job easier by allowing you to simply rotate the wheel back and forth between the two positions until you achieve best leveling. The aluminum level can also be placed on top of the magnets for re-leveling later, if you move the apparatus to a different room.

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Construction Step #6 - Stator Arm phase one

Hi folks, Here is the fist phase of construction concerning the stator arm apparatus. The basic stator arm is an integral part of the framework, and needs to be fully adjustable for height and angles above the rotor magnets. I will be showing a more advanced stator design later in this pdf document, and it should be understood that the one currently described was mainly conceived for the purpose of testing magnet configurations and magnetic interactions. Later, this stator arm will serve to position a coil for testing the generator concepts involved in this project, so it is advised that you start by building this stator arm and use it to confirm the results that I have demonstrated while using it. In this first phase of construction, I show how to make an adjustment height stop collar. The stop collar is installed on the right front frame end upright (vertical) pipe, and the stator arm assembly will reside above the stop collar. The purpose of the stop collar is to set a minimum height adjustment for the stator arm, which will allow the stator arm to be swung over or away from the magnets without worry of altering the height or contacting and damaging the magnets. Neo magnets are very strong, and although they will cling quite well to the steel bike wheel rotor, they will jump off the wheel rim and smash into the stator magnet if the stator magnet is brought too close to them. This usually results in the affected rotor magnets breaking into pieces, so use of a stop collar helps prevent such mishaps. The stop collar, and most of the other PVC used for the stator arm, is made from 1+1/4" PVC pipe and fittings.

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As you can see in the above photo, the collar becomes a double thickness when the PVC pipe pieces are added. We will be drilling and threading the collar in the next two steps, and the double thickness will offer good thread depth for the intended purpose of using adjustment thumb screws.

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Note: The thumb screws shown above are steel. I would prefer to use stainless steel or brass ones in the stator arm parts, as they are non magnetic, but there were none available locally. Note that some stainless steel fasteners are magnetic, so take a magnet with you to check for attraction if you are shopping at your local hardware store, or be certain to specify non-magnetic stainless steel if ordering online. Both ss and brass ones can be found online at McMaster-Carr You will need 6 total for the stator arm, and will also need ten 1/4-20 x 1/2" nylon pan head screws. You may have luck finding those locally, but if not then they can also be found at McMaster-Carr. McMaster-Carr ($6.50 per 100 pack).

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Later, after completing my build, I will figure all of the necessary hardware parts, and will make up some hardware packages for this project. That way people can buy exactly what is needed with no hassle, and just pay the actual cost of the material and shipping. I will also start preparing some ready-to assemble kits, as time allows, for those who don't have the time or tools needed to prepare their own. Assembly will require only a screwdriver and a couple of open end wrenches, if you opt for the kits. If interested in acquiring a full kit, or just a hardware pack, please e-mail me at rickandlezel@hotmail.com with "Pipe Dream parts request" in the subject line.

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Phase #2 of Stator Arm construction

This step continues the Stator Arm construction that began in step #6.

Try holding the tee firmly in one hand, and attempt to turn the 2+3/8" pipe with the other hand. If you can not turn or rock the pipe sideways, then all is well. If you can turn or rock it, you should lock it in place using #6 X 1/2" sheet metal screws in the same manner as the frame connectors were stabilized in an earlier step.

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The idea of the rotating and locking swing arm is to allow the stator arm to be rotated into position above the rotor, and to be swung back out when making certain adjustments or doing work on the frame or rotor. The pictured nylon screws are the correct type, but are longer than the 1/2" length actually needed, as this was all I could find locally. You want to adjust the nylon screws so that they take up all slack and yet allow the tee to rotate and slide up and down on the 1" pipe. When locking the swing arm tee in place with the metal thumbscrews, do not over tighten, as this will damage the 1" pipe and may also strip the threads of the tee. Never tighten down on the nylon screws - leave them properly adjusted, as noted above.

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Phase 3 of Stator Arm construction

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Please note: I was unable to find any more nylon pan head screws locally, but did find some short ones in an angled oval head design. The threaded length was about 1/4", and not long enough to work, so I countersunk the hole openings a bit to match the angle of the screw head. If you choose to do yours this way, countersink before you make the threads with the 1/4"-20 tap. Countersink about the same amount shown above, and the screw threads will then extend about 1/8" past the bottom of the hole.

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The vertical angle adjuster will be used to position the stator arm at the most advantageous angle from vertical, and this will depend upon your wheel. Wheel rim sides are made angled slightly so that they are wider apart at the outer edge than at the inner dimension. Generally, it is best to match the stator arm angle to the wheel rim angle so that the stator magnet will be perfectly aligned at the same angle as the rotor magnets. After the next step, which completes the stator arm construction phases, I will show how to make all the adjustments properly and safely. The last phase of the stator arm construction will show how I have mounted my stator magnet in such a way as to allow for horizontal angle adjustment, and depth of horizontal placement above the rotor.

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Final Construction Step for the Stator Arm

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Note: I found the above magnet for sale on eBay. It was actually $2, but came as an assembled pair of duplicate magnets. Hard Drive Magnets - Neodymium - eBay (item 390041745952 end time Jun-02-09 10:59:59 PDT) Assembled, these magnets look like those in the photo below:

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Note: I have been told by one Pipe Dream replicator that the eBay seller ran out of the thick hard drive magnets he was selling. He probably sold out shortly after I first mentioned his web link, but with the high demand I am certain he will probably try his best to round up some more. These are found in older hard drives, and the newer ones use weaker 1/8 thick neodymium magnets. If all you can get your hands on is a 1/8 thick HD magnet, you can temporarily bolster its performance characteristics while looking for a better replacement. To do this, place a single or double-stack 3/8x x 1/8 thick neodymium bar magnet at each end of the HD magnet, and angle them slightly to conform to the C curvature. To separate these magnets, you must first place a non-magnetic material between them. Use something of the same thickness and width as the space between the magnets, and at least 4" long. Keep the assembly with the bottom magnet flat on a floor, workbench, or countertop. Then remove the two screws that hold the assembly together. These are usually Torx head (star) screws, so take the magnet to the hardware store and get a Torx screwdriver of the proper size, if you don't already have one. After removing the screws, grab the round separator pieces with a vice grip tool and pull each one away from the assembly as you hold the magnets stabilized. Caution: Remember that these magnets are super strong, and that if you get your fingers pinched between them you are going to feel the pain! So very carefully slide the top magnet sideways along the non-magnetic material, and away from the lower magnet at least 4 inches. Take utmost care to always keep these magnets well separated, and away from any metal objects. Never place one of these in a shirt or pants pocket.

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Note: While my mounting block had the 1/4" holes marked and drilled 7/16" from the block sides, you may need to vary this measurement depending on your HD magnet dimensions. After tracing your HD magnet, take a 1/4" stainless steel flat washer and place it centered on the line beside the magnet outline, leaving a small space in between. Then use a pencil, through the washer, to mark a circle showing where to drill. Use an awl, or sharp nail, to punch a center in the circles. Place the block over a 2" x 4" block before drilling, then follow up with a 1/8" pilot drill and finish the block mounting holes with a 1/4" drill bit. The size of the magnet mounting holes will be smaller, and will depend on the size of the screws needed, so match the drill bit to the screw size.

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Step #10 - Leveling and Adjusting

Okay folks, this is the part where all of the basic frame construction steps have been completed and we are ready to level the apparatus and make critical adjustments. First, swing the stator swivel tee away from your wheel. Lift it all the way up and lock it in place with its thumbscrews. Lift the height adjusting stop collar up against the swivel tee and lock it into place. Install your stator arm horizontal angle adjuster and stator mount block, which was completed in step #9, into the vertical angle adjusting elbow, and adjust all the nylon screws evenly. Not too tight - you want the 1" pipe to be able to move for proper adjustment. The thumb screws should also be up against the pipe, but not tightened. Set the apparatus on whatever surface you will be using it on - a work bench, table, floor, or whatever. When you have the location chosen, it is best to place a small piece of masking tape underneath each of the two front leveler feet. This helps you to precisely replace the apparatus where you had it if you need to move it for any reason. Start with all of the adjusters fully turned in, then adjust them with a wrench as needed so that all four touch the surface with no unevenness.

Referring to the next photo below, which is a front view of the apparatus, place a wood or aluminum carpenter's level on top of the wheel rim (or on top of the magnets, as I have done). The reason I am using two levels is because I wanted to use the digital readout one, but it has a magnetic base so I placed it on top of my aluminum level. The digital level reads to 1/10 of a degree, but a bubble level will work well enough. Check if the front left or right corner needs to be raised, and make adjustments 1/4 turn at a time until level as shown in the photo.

With the front looking good, rotate the wheel to the left until the carpenter's level is aligned front-to-back on the left side. Repeat the leveling procedures that you followed for the front, until level. Then recheck the front and recheck the side until both read correctly when the wheel is swiveled back and forth from front to side. Again, ensure that the unit is level with all four rubber feet touching the surface

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where the apparatus is placed. The adjuster screw should be adequately long enough to make good adjustments on most surfaces, but if your table, workbench, or floor is way off being level then you will definitely need to use longer screws. The screw threads should always go through both threaded sides of the tee that they reside in. If you back any screw out too far then you won't have stable footing. The photo below shows a screw that is probably adjusted too far, as an example.

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As mentioned in an earlier post, a 2+3/4" to 3" carriage bolt length is preferable, as it will allow leveling under most all conditions, but it must be threaded the entire length. The photo below shows the side view with apparatus properly leveled. Notice that your aim is to level the wheel, not the frame. Note that it is very important to level the wheel in two directions. Videos that we have seen of people leveling their rotor in one direction, or leveling a surface that their apparatus sits upon, proves absolutely nothing, so let there be no question that your wheel is absolutely level.

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Now that you have your wheel leveled properly, we need to adjust the stator arm. First, we need to match the stator arm to the wheel rim angle of manufacture. In the next photo, you will see how the digital level comes in handy for determining the wheel rim angle, but don't dismay if you don't have one of these because after showing how I do it, I will explain an alternative way that also works well.

With the rim angle known, I can transfer this to the stator arm angle easily, but before doing so I will level the horizontal angle adjuster as shown in the next photo.

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To do this properly, the stator swivel tee must be tightened to the frame with the thumbscrews just as it would be when locked in proper position. With this angle correctly adjusted, I then rotate the tee 90 degrees and set the level down again against the stator mount tee, and adjust the tee up or down until the angle is correct to match my earlier reading of the wheel rim angle.

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To get the angle this exacting, I first move the adjuster elbow until I am within a degree or so, and then use the upper nylon top and bottom screws of the adjuster elbow to tweak in the exact angle reading. It makes adjustment easier if the vertical adjustment elbow is not too awfully tight on the swivel tee extension pipe, but once the angle is set you should push the elbow onto the pipe tightly by hand, and then install a couple of #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws to lock the elbow angle as shown below.

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Notice also that I have made three marks on the top of the reducing bushing. The center mark is aligned to a mark that I have made on the face of the vertical adjuster elbow adjacent to the bushing. This allows me to remove the stator mount if needed, and then replace it aligned level. Also notice that the above photo shows the stator mount oriented across the wheel in the manner which it would be positioned for use in one of several possible Moving Stator modes. The stator arm would then be swiveled back and forth a bit across the rim as needed to achieve rotation, but more on that later. The next photo shows how the stator mount looks when positioned properly above the rim for Howard Johnson type experiments. This is also another orientation that can be utilized in a Moving Stator mode.

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The observant among you will notice that I had not yet installed the elbow locking screws yet, which were shown in the photo above. That's okay, because I had the elbow pushed onto the swivel tee pipe extension very tightly, but I highly recommend against anyone positioning their stator magnet over the rotor magnets, or any area of the rim, unless the angle adjusting elbow is quite secure, and the best way to ensure that is to lock it with the screws. Notice that to achieve proper alignment above the rim, I only had to extend the stator mount out about 1/8" or so from the angle adjusting elbow.

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As promised, for those of you who do not have access to a digital carpenter's level, here is how you can set the stator arm to the wheel rim angle: 1. Take a block of wood and clamp it to the rim. Place it directly on the rim - not on the magnets. Swivel the stator arm into position over the wood block, lock it into place, and then start lowering the stator mount towards the block by adjusting the angle of slope. Keep adjusting until the stator magnet rests on the wood block. If the magnet is fully laying flat against the block, you are all done and can lock up the elbow. If need be, you can lower the stop collar and the swivel tee just enough to get the stator magnet to lay flat on the wood block. Once adjusted properly, lock the vertical angle adjuster elbow in position with the two #6 x 1/2" screws, and then raise the swivel mount and stop collar to their highest adjustment level. Lock the stop collar at that position, and you are done.

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Step # 11 Flywheel Construction: Part One

First let me explain that there are other ways to implement flywheel effect that are in some cases easier than the method of constructing a birch plywood flywheel. For example, several steel weights could be fastened directly to the steel bike wheel rim to obtain any amount of heft desired. In choosing to build a birch flywheel ring, I had a definite dual purpose in mind. I liked the idea of having this large 4" wide ring available to me as a testing platform for a mechanical engine such as a Besseler type wheel, and have some ideas that I believe could make that a working reality. I also wanted the option of utilizing the wide surface to place some steel sheeting strips that would allow me to try out other magnet placements that just aren't possible on the relatively narrow bike wheel rim. I by no means would suggest that others adopt the birch flywheel ring idea unless they also want to pursue mechanical engine experiments, or possibly wish to utilize the wood surface for some other project uses such as I mention. There are many possible uses, which are only limited by a lack of imagination. That said, here are the construction techniques that I used. If one has a well equipped workshop then this can all be made easier, but my intent was to show how it can be done fairly accurately with a bare minimum of tools necessary. Note that these same techniques can also be used to construct a flywheel ring of any desired size using standard plywood sheet sizes. I used a 24" square portion of a 24" x 48" panel, and will be using the remainder to produce a 24" heavy duty all-wood wheel to use as an optional accessory. Later I will show how that is done, but for now here are the flywheel ring instructions:

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Note: If you don't have a clamp, and must nail the block to the furring strip, simply tack-nail it lightly so that it can be moved quite easily. The block will need to be moved along the strip in a later step. 77

Note: After aligning the panel to center on the middle furring strip, drive a 1+1/4" roofing nail at each end to secure the panel to the strip. 78

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Note: I have shown this method, of using a pivot point off the plywood panel, to illustrate how arc segments of any size large curvature can be laid out on a standard size plywood sheet. Since I was using a 24" square section of a 24" x 48" panel for this flywheel ring, I could have set the original pivot point directly on the panel. With a 24" x 24" panel, however, that could not be done.

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Note: You only need to drive the pivot point roofing nail in just enough so that it can't be pulled over when you swing the bar. 81

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When cutting at the straight lines at the arc ends, cut below the lines to leave the lines in place. When sanding the ends with a sanding block, true them to the lines. 84

Note: First determine which two arc segments are the best cut and least blemished ones. Set these in the middle and lower positions shown in the above photo. Lay out the markings for these as shown on the bottom piece by first measuring in 1/2" from each end and making a mark. Next, measure in 5/16" from the line that would correspond to the outer rim edge profile (upper rim line in photo) and make a cross mark to the lines marked previously. Also make a cross mark 5/16" in at 85

the centerline of the lower two arc segments. As shown on the lowest arc segment, additionally mark the drilling locations shown at midpoint between the center and outer marks previously made, and do this for both the middle and lower arc segments. The uppermost arc segment should only be marked at the left end (or whichever end is the best cut one) as the opposite end will be cut off later. Carefully center punch each cross mark with an awl or sharp nail. Then set each piece on top of a scrap 2" x 4" wood piece and drill vertically straight at each mark using a 5/32" drill bit. If you are not using a drill press, use care to drill as vertically straight as possible.

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Note: Before drilling into the rim, be sure to remove all the magnets. They won't be touched by the drill, but the steel bits will be attracted to the magnets and will be difficult to remove from them. I only show the magnets being on the rim because I took the above photo after the drilling was completed. For now, ONLY drill through wheel rim at the guide holes at the two ends of the segment. Insert a #8-32 x 1+1/4" screw and nylock nut to steady one end after drilling it, before you 87

drill the opposite end, and double check for correct alignment of the outer rim marking line to the rim edge before drilling each hole. Place another #8-32 screw at the opposite end of the first arc segment. Attach the second arc segment in the same manner, butting it against the right end of the first segment, but only insert one screw and locknut at the left end as the right end must be raised for the next step.

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Note: If the best end of segment 3 is not the left end then reverse the instructions in the above and below photos. Also, do not be overly concerned at this time about having a perfect fit where the segments butt together. This can be corrected in the final step. 89

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Note: Before scribing the cutoff line, make certain that all arc segments are in proper alignment with each other, and in relation to the outer edge of the bike rim. After marking the cutoff line, remove the 3rd arc segment and carefully cut the waste end off at the outside of the line. Do not cut on the line, or into it. The idea is to leave the line showing on the arc segment. Now measure in 1/2" from the cutoff end and make a drilling mark there. Draw a correction centerline, and also make a drilling mark there, as you did with the other two segments, and locate and mark the points halfway between the true centerline and the outer holes. Center punch and drill at each mark with the 5/32" drill bit. Proceed to Flywheel finishing steps in Part 2.

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Flywheel Construction Steps: Part 2

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Note: The above photo shows the completed flywheel viewed with the stand turned upside down. To get the best possible fit at the segment joints, first use your sanding block to true segment 3 to the arc end lines. With segments 1 and 2 aligned and fastened to the rim at both ends, see if segment 3 fits well in the intervening space. If so, dill through the rim and fasten one end at a time, just as you did with the other segments. Remember to ONLY drill through the rim at the end holes for now. If the fit of the 3rd segment is not quite right, sand one or both ends accordingly until you do achieve a good fit and then drill and fasten. When all looks good, remove one segment at a time, marking it and its location on the rim as "segment 1," "segment 2," and "segment 3," accordingly so that they may be resituated properly later. Now take a 3/16" drill bit and use it to drill through the end holes ONLY of each arc segment to slightly enlarge them. Remount the 3 segments in their correct positions on the rim and fasten the ends with the #8-32 x 1+1/4" screws and nylock nuts. Snug the fasteners, but do not over tighten them as the intention now is to correct for any evident runout of the flywheel. You can use your stator arm's stator mounting block to test for runout as follows: 1. Position the stator arm, and adjust the mounting block, so that the block is close to the flywheel's outer edge and level with the flywheel surface. Slowly rotate the flywheel while determining and marking the point of nearest contact between the flywheel and the stator mounting block. 2. Tap that point on the flywheel with a hammer with the intent of moving it farther away by an amount that would neutralize the runout. When satisfied that you have reduced runout as much as possible by this method, tighten down the screws at each of the segment ends, reinsert the 5/32" drill bit in your electric drill, and drill through the rim at the remaining guide holes. Then insert #8-32 x 1+1/4" screws and nylock nuts at those additional locations. Note that I used pan head screws for attachment of the flywheel, with the heads protruding above the wood surface. If desired, the heads can be countersunk below the surface, or flat head screws can be level with the surface if a beveled countersink is used. 3. Any remaining runout will be due to the imperfections of the arc cuttings done with the saber saw, and these can be sanded at points that are closest to contact with the stator mounting block. A simple sanding block will work fine, and once you get to where you are very close to accurate you can spin the flywheel while finish sanding it with the sanding block. If you have a Dremel power tool with a sanding band attachment, you could optionally think of a way to mount it temporarily to the stator mounting block and gradually bring it into contact with the spinning flywheel edge. Likewise, a small belt sander could carefully be mounted similarly. The end result won't necessarily be better - just easier. For your information, I weighed my arc segments after fitting them, and here are the results: (See next page)

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And here is my new 3/8" axle bike wheel being weighed in:

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As you can see, the bike wheel weighs 4 ounces less than the flywheel, so the flywheel addition more than doubles the heft. Also keep in mind that the 4" wide flywheel ring overhangs the steel bike ring by 2" on the radius, and so the majority of the additional heft is beyond the area where the magnets are attached. This provides increased leverage. The diameter of the flywheel is 26+5/8 inches, and produces a far greater amount of leverage at the perimeter than a smaller diameter flywheel could offer. There is a very definite advantage to building this magnetic motor with a large bike wheel and a larger diameter flywheel, and this advantage becomes quite evident when witnessing the inertial momentum increase which the flywheel provides. While one might tend to think that the added weight of the flywheel, which more than doubles the weight of the bike wheel alone, would cause the wheel to take much longer to spin up, but that isn't the case. The inertial momentum gain actually results in faster accelerations at each of the 8 acceleration points per revolution by helping to maintain all of the acceleration boost that is achieved at the initial moments of the acceleration bursts, whereas the acceleration effects tend to wane somewhat after the initial bursts without the flywheel. The next phase of construction will cover the components of the stator tracking and timing system, and I will probably document that in progressive steps since it is the most detailed portion of the construction procedures. Best regards to all, Rick

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Vertical view of test stand with completed flywheel:

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Pipe Dream videos available on YouTube: You can find all my videos at the following Internet link: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=TheRickoff&view=videos explains the ideas and hopes of the Pipe Dream project. describes factors of the build, including magnet layouts, and demonstrates rotational thrust effect. introduces some moving stator, or "MOSTAT" methods, as I call them, for achieving rotation. shows how the rotor magnets can be easily repositioned on the steel bicycle wheel rim in order to test a different layout configuration. demonstrates the magnetic interactions of the MOSTAT (moving stator) magnet when used in conjunction with the rotor magnet arrangement shown in video #4. Video #6 explains how and why I identified and labeled the poles of my magnets as I did in the previous videos. Video #7 demonstrates how powerful my small neodymium rotor magnets actually are. Video #8 starts with a magnet power demonstration, and then I move on to introduce my stator arm assembly and describe its various parts. Video #9 further describes the stator arm components, and how the stator arm can be adjusted to align with the rotor magnets. Video #10 demonstrates motive rotational forces using the stator arm, and explains the magnet interactions in detail. Video #11 goes into further details and explanations regarding magnet interactions used to create rotational thrust. Video #12 describes the pitfalls of stationary stators, and completes the section regarding uses of a stationary stator. Video #13 demonstrates how the stator arm can be readjusted for use in a position where the stator magnet is aligned across the wheel rim, and used to produce continuous rotational movement. Video #14 is the first in a series of three videos describing and demonstrating my preferred "cat's meow" magnet configuration. Video #15 shows how, when operating the stator magnet 1.75 inches above the rotor magnets, movement of the MOSTAT (moving stator) is nearly effortless and yet the rotational forces are still quite good. Video #16 shows the same "cat's meow" magnet configuration demonstrated in video #15, but here I lower the stator arm, from the previous 1.75 inch height above the rotor magnets, to a 1 inch gap. As can be seen, this dramatically increases the attraction and repulsion effects. Video #17 shows the 26+5/8" diameter 3/4" birch plywood flywheel ring which has been attached to the bike wheel, and a spin test is performed with the stator at full height above the rotor. Video #18 clears up a common misconception held by several viewers of my videos, which is that I should be employing some method in order to counter the effects of so-called "sticky points." Video #19 crushes the critics and naysayers who have continuously remained steadfast in their belief that all of the rotational movement witnessed has been somehow imparted on the wheel by the energy that is input by my hand movements. Video #20 shows the magnet spacers and polycarbonate timing track base being applied to the rotor. Please also see the Pipe Dream website at: http://rickspipedreamproject.uuuq.com/index.htm Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5

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Note: This builders document has been split into two sections because of the file size. Please see Ricks Pipe Dream Project part2.doc for the remaining pages of this document. The split was necessary as I can only upload files of 50MB maximum size to the file server. If you are saving the Word document on your computer, you can cut and paste the pages from the part 2 document into this document and erase this notice. Also note that you may elect to use the pdf builders document instead, but that the photo and text quality in that file is not nearly as good as in the Word documents.

RICKS PIPE DREAM PROJECT PART 2 Note: This builders document has been split into two sections because of the file size. Please see Ricks Pipe Dream Project.doc for the prior pages of this document. The split was necessary as I can only upload files of 50MB maximum size to the file server. If you are saving the Word document on your computer, you can cut and paste the pages from this part 2 document into the original document and erase this notice. Also note that you may elect to use the pdf builders document instead, but that the photo and text quality in that file is not nearly as good as in the Word documents.

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Table of Contents for Part 2

Introduction.. pg 01 Construction: Step #12 Step #13 Making up magnet spacers.. pg 03 Preparing the timing track base pg 10

Planned construction steps currently underway. pg 13 Pipe Dream video series on YouTube pg 14

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Rotor Magnet Space Maintainers

Hi folks, Here is a picture that shows how the rotor magnet space maintainers look when applied to a group of rotor magnets.

This was just a temporary check, and the spacers are actually going on the new wheel. I made these spacers from 1/4" thick x 3/4" wide polyethylene bar stock. I made up a simple jig for cutting these to exact size, and will post those details next. These are cut 5/8" wide at the outside of the rim, and 9/16" wide at the inside, and they must be perfect so that the magnets all align properly. This is tough material, and is harder to saw than oak. Each cut leaves a burred edge at the bottom, and its just about impossible to sand or file this burr off. I came up with a great solution, though. Cuticle scissors quickly cut the burrs off. It's almost like cutting fingernails, and goes very quickly with these. In case you don't know what these are, just ask your wife or girlfriend, as she probably has a pair of these scissors for nail grooming. And trimming with these won't ruin them - they'll be just as sharp as ever.

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Magnet Spacer jig construction

As promised, here are the construction details for the jig used in cutting magnet spacers to equal proportions and angles. I am not advising that everyone go ahead and make up these particular spacers. Experimenters should try out several different magnet configurations and spacings to determine what actually works best for them before deciding on what size spacers to use, if any. Once the spacers are installed, it is much more difficult to try out differing rotor magnet configurations. That said, though, here is how I made up a simple jig from scrap materials that I had laying around: First select a piece of scrap wood at least 4" wide and 5" long in actual measure. Most important is that the wood is not warped, and that the edges along the width are straight and true. To lay the angles out properly you will need either a carpenter's try-square and bevel square, or a combination square with a protractor attachment. Using the try-square, and referring to the Step A photo below, first draw lines a-b and c-d about 3 to 4 inches apart from one another. Next, measure up exactly 3" from the lower edge of the board, on both lines, and make pencil marks. Using a ruler, draw line e-f through the pencil marks just made. Now, starting at the intersection of lines c-d and e-f, measure over 1+1/4" to the left along line e-f, and make a pencil mark just above the line. Starting at point c on the lower board edge, measure 1+1/8" to the left and make a mark at point g. Now draw line g-i through the marks made at points g and h, and proceed to Step B.

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The idea behind measuring and laying out the angle 4 times larger than actual dimension is that the adjustment of the bevel square will be far more precise than would be possible if working from actual size dimensions of a spacer. The angle of the bevel square can now be transferred to the jig, but first we will need a jig. The basic jig is simply made from three pieces of wood, and can be cut out from the scrap piece you just used. Flip the piece over and measure 3/4" up from the lower edge at both ends, then connect the marks with a line drawn through them while using your ruler as a guide. Now measure down 3/4" from the upper edge, in the same manner. Using these two lines as cutting guides, cut out the two strips from the board edges. The remaining piece of wood from the center of the board should

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now be about 2+1/2" wide, and the same length as the strips. The strips will be placed on top of the board, and fastened to it, and will serve as guides for the 1/4" x 3/4" polyurethane bar stock that the magnet spacers will be cut from. The poly bar stock will lay between the guides, on the 1/4" thickness, so the guides must be fastened 3/4" apart. To make this easy, first fasten one guide to the board in alignment with the board edge. The sides of the guides which used to be the board edges should be mounted facing the polyurethane bar stock. With one guide attached with glue and/or screws, sandwich the polyurethane bar stock between that guide and the remaining one. The fit should be precise, but not so tight as to make movement of the polyurethane stock difficult. With both guides attached, lay out the cutting lines on top of the guides as shown in the Step C photo below.

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Now proceed to Step D below to cut the jig guides between the marked lines.

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Finally, complete the remaining jig components as directed in Step E below.

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I actually made my jig base and abutting board from a length of one of the furring strips that I used during the flywheel construction process, but any boards of the described dimensions, and a minimum 3/4" thickness, can be utilized. Be sure to use a miter saw when cutting out the magnet spacers. The spacers fit between each of the rotor magnets of a group, with two additional spacers used at the ends of the group. The method of fastening the spacers to the rotor depends upon whether you will be adding a further layer of material above the spacers, such as the polycarbonate ring which I have applied for a timing track base. As mentioned previously, the only reason why I am installing the track base on top of the magnets, rather than upon the flywheel, is because I want to test the track both with and without the flywheel mounted to the rotor. The comparative results will then point to the effectiveness, or ineffectiveness, of the flywheel. If anyone does go ahead with a track base mounted above the magnets, a less expensive alternative to the polycarbonate ring would be 1/4" thick MASONITE. I chose clear polycarbonate for the sake of photo and video transparency. No matter whether you are mounting just the spacers, or spacers plus an additional layer above them, use nylon machine screws for attachment to the rotor. Since nylon screws are not as strong as metallic screws, I chose #10-32 size binder head nylon screws. Mine are 1" long, but you could use 3/4" screws if only the spacers are being mounted. I used nylock nuts to bind the screws. Materials I used are as follows: Polyethylene bar stock McMaster-Carr Nylon screws McMaster-Carr Nylock nuts McMaster-Carr Polycarbonate sheet McMaster-Carr Holding the spacers, and any platform to be mounted above them, steady while drilling through them and the rotor can be a bit tricky, and securing the inserted screws with nuts is also made a bit difficult because of the raised lip of the bike wheel rim edge. I will talk about the methods that I used to overcome these problems in a later post. Best regards to all,

Rick

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Polycarbonate track base ring attachment

Here's the method I used for attaching the polycarbonate track base to the rim. Again, I don't suggest that this is the best method or material for the track base.

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I made up the timing track base from a 24 square sheet of clear polycarbonate material, which I cut with a saber saw scroll blade into four arcs that make up the ring when joined together. I used the same arc drawing tool that was used in laying out the wood flywheel. The scribed marks start at the rim, where the ring will be attached, and extend 3 beyond the rim. Therefore, a new hole had to be drilled in the arc layout tool one inch beyond the farthest hole from the pivot point, since my wood flywheel only extends 2 past the rim. Here is how the arcs looked when laid out on the floor:

The ring looks white because the upper and lower surfaces are covered with a protective adhesive paper during machining. I chose the clear polycarbonate material to afford best visibility in pictures and video, and chose to apply the track base over the rotor magnets, rather than the flywheel, because I want to test the track system both with and without the flywheel attached. If a wood flywheel is used as the track base, it would be best to use a flywheel of 28" minimum diameter, and 28+5/8" would be preferable. Until I can prove that this type of timing track is a viable method for moving the stator, I really don't suggest that anyone start building one. There are several other possible methods of moving the stator, and while I hope that this one proves successful, one of the other methods may prove to work even better. This is an unknown factor at this time, and we need to do comparative testing to find what will really work best. If I can get this somewhat close to actually working, then I'll figure that I'm on the right track, so to speak. If it doesn't come close, after readjustments, then I will abandon the track for another method. As I say, there are several possible methods, and it would probably take me quite a while to experiment with all of them. Hopefully I won't need to do that, as other replicators will embark on differing methods of achieving stator movement. That's the best way to maximize our efforts.

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This view shows the polycarbonate ring aligned above the magnets and spacers on the new bike wheel rotor.

Note that I used some bar magnets to steady the ring during the alignment process. The scribed circular layout lines appear on the underside of the ring, and facilitate positioning of the ring to the wheel rims outer perimeter. The drilling and attachment methods will be shown in the next construction phase.

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Planned construction steps currently under way: My current phase of construction covers the components necessary for installation of the stator tracking and timing mechanisms. I will document each step of that progress and add it to this builders pdf file to show the stages that are involved. Now that the wheel has been prepped for the track by installing the magnet spacers and polycarbonate track base, the combination stator mount/track riding carriage will be installed. With all of this done, I will proceed to the final step of building my tracking system, which will automatically position my stator magnet to maximum advantage at every critical point during rotation. The track itself will be a polyurethane monorail positioned on the clear polycarbonate ring, at its outer edge, and will slowly wind inward and outward in a precise manner to offer perfect timing. A small wheel, or wheels, will be mounted horizontally to rotate against the sides of the track to "ride" and follow it precisely. I will actually leave a small space of about 1/16 inch between each wheel and the track so that there is no resistive contact with the track at times when there doesnt need to be. The wheel axle, or axles, will be posts that connect to an overhead horizontal slider mechanism, and this will cause the stator magnet to follow the timing track in unison. After completion, I will first do a series of timed rundown tests without the birch flywheel, and then with the flywheel so that we can see the difference. The tests will be conducted by spinning the rotor up to 100 rpm and then timing the rundown to zero rpm. There is no question in my mind about whether or not this tracking system will work. The only question to be answered is whether or not the magnetic motor can supply a sufficient amount of force to continuously oscillate the stator magnet back and forth across the wheel rim while maintaining adequate rpm of the rotor. I can't guarantee that will be the case until I have actually done it, but I do believe that it is more than just possible. To me, a positive outcome is highly probable, and I hope to be able to demonstrate that very soon. Other advances planned, under development, or implemented at this time: A Pipe Dream Project website has been established with quick links to all project resources, and can be found here: http://rickspipedreamproject.uuuq.com/index.htm An online data form has been developed for use by replicators and experimenters to share data and test results. The form is currently being finalized and will be posted for download. Use of this form is critical to the success of the project. All data received will be posted to a searchable database. By sharing data and test results of experiments, we can avoid duplicating unproductive work that has already been tested by others, and concentrate on duplicating, confirming, and enhancing methods that have shown positive results, as well as embarking on new methods which have not yet been tested. This will greatly help to move the Project forwards in a most efficient manner. I urge all replicators and experimenters to use the data form and submit their data to the Project to be shared by all. Thank you for your interest and participation, Rick

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Pipe Dream videos available on YouTube: You can find all my videos at the following Internet link: http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=TheRickoff&view=videos explains the ideas and hopes of the Pipe Dream project. describes factors of the build, including magnet layouts, and demonstrates rotational thrust effect. introduces some moving stator, or "MOSTAT" methods, as I call them, for achieving rotation. shows how the rotor magnets can be easily repositioned on the steel bicycle wheel rim in order to test a different layout configuration. demonstrates the magnetic interactions of the MOSTAT (moving stator) magnet when used in conjunction with the rotor magnet arrangement shown in video #4. Video #6 explains how and why I identified and labeled the poles of my magnets as I did in the previous videos. Video #7 demonstrates how powerful my small neodymium rotor magnets actually are. Video #8 starts with a magnet power demonstration, and then I move on to introduce my stator arm assembly and describe its various parts. Video #9 further describes the stator arm components, and how the stator arm can be adjusted to align with the rotor magnets. Video #10 demonstrates motive rotational forces using the stator arm, and explains the magnet interactions in detail. Video #11 goes into further details and explanations regarding magnet interactions used to create rotational thrust. Video #12 describes the pitfalls of stationary stators, and completes the section regarding uses of a stationary stator. Video #13 demonstrates how the stator arm can be readjusted for use in a position where the stator magnet is aligned across the wheel rim, and used to produce continuous rotational movement. Video #14 is the first in a series of three videos describing and demonstrating my preferred "cat's meow" magnet configuration. Video #15 shows how, when operating the stator magnet 1.75 inches above the rotor magnets, movement of the MOSTAT (moving stator) is nearly effortless and yet the rotational forces are still quite good. Video #16 shows the same "cat's meow" magnet configuration demonstrated in video #15, but here I lower the stator arm, from the previous 1.75 inch height above the rotor magnets, to a 1 inch gap. As can be seen, this dramatically increases the attraction and repulsion effects. Video #17 shows the 26+5/8" diameter 3/4" birch plywood flywheel ring which has been attached to the bike wheel, and a spin test is performed with the stator at full height above the rotor. Video #18 clears up a common misconception held by several viewers of my videos, which is that I should be employing some method in order to counter the effects of so-called "sticky points." Video #19 crushes the critics and naysayers who have continuously remained steadfast in their belief that all of the rotational movement witnessed has been somehow imparted on the wheel by the energy that is input by my hand movements. Video #20 shows the magnet spacers and polycarbonate timing track base being applied to the rotor. Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5

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