Fibers and Polymers 2007, Vol.8, No.

3, 326-329

The Correlation Analysis between the Appearance-related Performances and the Mechanical Properties on Lyocell-interlining Bonded Fabric
Department of Clothing and Textiles, Sookmyung Womens University, Seoul 140-742, Korea

In Young Kim, Soo Min Oh, and Wha Soon Song*

(Received June 12, 2006; Revised November 28, 2006; Accepted December 14, 2006)

Abstract: Lyocell is drawing attention as a new material, environmentally friendly fiber. Precedent researches on lyocell are

mostly on structure, characteristics, physical properties, and dyeability. There are few researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. This study analyzes the correlation between the appearance-related performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining, lyocell face fabric, and lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric correlates with LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining; LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HB, RC, and T of lyocell face fabric; LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The drapability of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric correlates with LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HG, WC, and RC of fusible interlining; LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5 and RC of lyocell face fabric; LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, LC, RC, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric correlates with RT, T, W, WT, G, and 2HG of fusible interlining; LC, W, LT, EMT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5 of lyocell face fabric; WC, T, LT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5 of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. Keywords: Lyocell, Fusible interlining, Lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, Appearance-related performances, Mechanical properties

Introduction
Lyocell fabric, having high durability, its strength is not appreciably damaged by chemical and physical finishing, resulting in fibrillation rendering a peach-skin effect on fabric surface, and shows superior performances as a cloths material: although it has 40 % digestion rate in radial direction, it has 0.03 % digestion rate in longitudinal direction enough to give bulkiness to clothes. Especially, because the solvent used in production is harmless and capable of being reused and recycled, it is drawing attention as a new material, environmentally friendly fiber [1]. At present, precedent researches on lyocell [1-4] are mostly on lyocell structure, characteristics, physical properties by finishing and dyeability, and mechanical properties and handle, and the like. Papers on interlining are mostly on wool fabric and there are little cases of researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. Especially, there are many cases when a bonding of interlining renders unexpected changes of handle, which are estimated to come from the lack of understanding of properties of the fusible interlining, face fabric, and bonded fabric [5,6]. Therefore, for production and quality control of clothing products, the study on this field is urgently required, which is by all means an important milestone that must precede any production of those kinds. Hereupon, the authors, in their previous work, have reported difference in appearance-related performances, mechanical property [7,8], subject to proper bonding conditions for bonding fusible interlining of lyocell. Following the previous work, this study, selected as face
*Corresponding author: doccubi@sookmyung.ac.kr 326

fabric the tencel 100 % textile fabric and mix-spinning textile of tencel/cotton 65/35 % with yarn number 20 and 10 respectively, on the market, making four kinds in total, and as fusible interlining, selected five kinds of woven fabric interlining with varying weight and weave and a kind of nonwoven fabric interlining. This study analyzes the correlation between the appearance-related performances of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining, lyocell face fabric, and lyocell-interlining bonded fabric.

Experimental
Materials
The lyocell face fabric specimen comprises a woven and bio-finished tencel 100 % fabric and mix-spinning tencel/ cotton 65/35 % fabric for ladys suit with yarn number 20 and 10 taken respectively, making four kinds in total, which is from Tongkook Co. selected among lyocell fabrics on the market; the characteristics are as listed in Table 1. The Fusible interlining specimen comprises five kinds of woven fabric interlining with varying weight and weave from Ilshin Co. and a kind of non-woven fabric interlining from Korea Vilene Co.; the characteristics of these fusible interlining are as listed in Table 2.

Test Methods

Lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was combined by making combinations of six kinds of fusible interlining and four kinds of lyocell face fabric, a total of 24 specimen were made. In bonding the fusible interlining and lyocell face fabric, a roller press machine (Korea Fibron, H-700d) was used, where

On Lyocell-interlining Bonded Fabric

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Table 1. Characteristics of fabrics

Fabric (%) Tencel 100 Tencel 100 Tencel/Cotton 65/35 Tencel/Cotton 65/35

Yarn no. (Ne) 20 20 10 10 20 20 10 10 Yarn no. (denier) 50 75 50 150 50 300 50 50 50 50

Fabric counts (ends picks/5 cm) 110 74 74 52 100 60 64 44 Fabric counts (ends picks/5 cm) 58 48 59 38 59 29 63 52 63 52

Weight (g/m2) 222.5 298.2 188.2 254.3

Thickness (mm) 0.36 0.62 0.38 0.52 Thickness (mm) 0.34 0.36 0.45 0.24 0.22 0.22

Weave Twill Twill Twill Twill

Table 2. Charateristics of interlinings

Fiber PET PET PET PET PET PET Adhesive PA PA PA PA PA PA

Weight (g/m2) Fabric Adhesive 34 11 51 11 63 11 30 8 30 8 30 8

Structure Broken twill Broken twill Broken twill Broken twill Plain Nonwoven

the bonding conditions of the lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was at 120 C under 3 kgf/cm pressure for 15 seconds [7,8]. Appearance-related performances such as stiffness, drapability, and crease recovery were measured. Six items of mechanical properties such as tensile, sharing, bending, and compressive property; thickness and weight were measured using Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (Kato Tech., Co., Ltd., (KESFB). Pearsons correlation analysis was conducted to figure out correlation between the appearance-related performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining, lyocell face fabric, and lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. SAS package program (v6.12) was used for the statistical analysis.
o 2

Results and Discussion

The Correlation between the Appearance-related Performances of Lyocell-interlining Bonded Fabric and the Mechanical Properties of Fusible Interlining

Table 3 shows the correlation between the appearancerelated performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining. As shown in Table 3, the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was found to correlate with LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining. This means, as LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining increases, the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric increases. Especially, B, 2HB, WC, and RC have close correlation, from which it can be estimated that the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is heavily influenced by B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining.. The drape coefficient of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric

performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining Appearance-related Drape Crease performances Stiffness coefficient recovery Mechanical properties LT 0.715*** 0.726*** 0.040 WT 0.481 0.548** 0.531** RT 0.216 0.319 0.649*** EMT 0.109 0.005 0.112 G 0.514* 0.590** 0.582** 2HG 0.530** 0.601** 0.567** 2HG5 0.609** 0.562** 0.245 B 0.759*** 0.786*** 0.133 2HB 0.675*** 0.768*** 0.341 LC 0.264 0.247 0.019 WC 0.730*** 0.778*** 0.323 RC 0.687*** 0.741*** 0.314 T 0.285 0.239 0.485* W 0.348 0.306 0.477* * <0.05, ** <0.01, *** <0.001.

Table 3. Pearsons correlation between the appearance-related

was found to positively correlate with LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining. This is because the drape coefficient increased with the increase of LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining, resulting in a decrease of drapability. Especially, B, 2HB, WC, and RC have close correlation, from which it can be estimated that the drapability of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is much influenced by B, 2HB, WC, and RC

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In Young Kim et al.

of fusible interlining. The crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is estimated to positively correlate with RT, T, and W of fusible interlining, and negatively correlate with WT, G, and 2HG. This means that while the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric improves as RT, T, and W of fusible interlining increase, the crease recovery decreases as WT, G, and 2HG increase. Especially, RT of fusible interlining, bearing close correlation, is estimated to have heavy influence on the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. Consequently, lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is flexsible and drape with the decrease of LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, RC of fusible interlining. And the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric improves with the increase of RT, T, W of fusible interlining and the decrease of WT, G, 2HG of fusible interlining. Therefore, bonded an fusible interlining to lyocell, it is desirable to select an fusible interlining that LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, RC have small values and RT, T, W have large values.

The Correlation between the Appearance-related Performances of Lyocell-interlining Bonded Fabric and the Mechanical Properties of Lyocell Face Fabric

Table 4 shows the correlation between the appearancerelated performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of lyocell face fabric. As shown in Table 4, the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was found to positively correlate with LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HB, and T of lyocell face fabric, and
performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of lyocell face fabric Appearance-related performances Stiffness Drape Crease Mechanical coefficient recovery properties LT 0.417* 0.465* 0.515** WT 0.283 0.024 0.004 RT 0.033 0.284 0.326 EMT 0.462* 0.502* 0.493* G 0.472* 0.459* 0.451* 2HG 0.450* 0.524* 0.482* 2HG5 0.353 0.466** 0.577** B 0.384 0.062 0.402 2HB 0.612** 0.398 0.132 LC 0.003 0.381 0.630*** WC 0.320 0.155 0.197 RC 0.582** 0.457* 0.179 T 0.454* 0.039 0.264 W 0.346 0.105 0.471* * <0.05, ** <0.01, *** <0.001.

Table 4. Pearsons correlation between the appearance-related

negatively correlate with RC. This means, while the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric increases with increase of LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HB, and T of lyocell face fabric, it decreases as RC of lyocell face fabric increases. The drape coefficient of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was found to positively correlate with LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5 of lyocell face fabric, and negatively correlate with RC. This means, while the drape coefficient increases with the increase of LT, EMT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5 of lyocell face fabric, resulting in a decrease of drapability, the drapability is improved with the increase of RC. The crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is estimated to positively correlate with LC, and W of lyocell face fabric, and negatively correlate with LT, EMT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5. This means the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric improves as LC, and W increase, the crease recovery decreases as LT, EMT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5 of lyocell face fabric increase. This corresponds to the research results [4] that the crease recovery of wool-interlining bonded fabric positively correlates with the weight of wool face fabric, and negatively correlates with shear strength (G). Especially, LC showed very close correlation, from which it can be estimated that the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is much influenced by LC of lyocell face fabric. Consequently, lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is flexible and drape with the decrease of LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, 2HB, T of lyocell face fabric and with the increase of RC of lyocell face fabric. And the crease recovery of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric improves with the decrease of LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5 of lyocell face fabric and with the increase of LC, W of lyocell face fabric.

The Correlation between Mechanical Properties of Lyocellinterlining Bonded Fabric and Appearance-related Performances of Lyocell-interlining Bonded Fabric

Table 5 shows the correlation between the appearance-related performances and the mechanical properties of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric. As shown in Table 5, the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was found to positively correlate with LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. This means, as LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric increase, the stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric increases. Especially, LT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T had close correlation, from which it can be estimated that the stiffness is much influenced by LT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The drape coefficient of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric was found to positively correlate with LT, WT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, RC, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, and negatively correlate with LC. This means, while the drape coefficient increases with the increase of LT, WT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, RC, and T of lyocell-interlining

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performances of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric Appearance-related performances Stiffness Drape Crease Mechanical coefficient recovery properties LT 0.660*** 0.726*** 0.604** WT 0.418 0.488* 0.173 RT 0.329 0.376 0.172 EMT 0.390 0.502* 1.159 G 0.615** 0.696*** 0.639*** 2HG 0.693*** 0.746*** 0.664*** 2HG5 0.724*** 0.753*** 0.617** B 0.853*** 0.583** 0.138 2HB 0.968*** 0.772*** 0.168 LC 0.306 0.409* 0.344 WC 0.204 0.157 0.458* RC 0.340 0.415* 0.351 T 0.698*** 0.414* 0.405* * <0.05, ** <0.01, *** <0.001.

Table 5. Pearsons correlation between the appearance-related

WC, T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric.

Conclusion
To serve as a base information helpful to select fusible interlining, treat and design sewing process considering the characteristics of lyocell, this study inveatigated the correlation between the appearance-related performances of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric and the mechanical properties of fusible interlining, lyocell face fabric, and lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The results are as follows: Firstly, to control stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining, LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HB, RC, and T of lyocell face fabric, LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, and T of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric must be considered; secondly, to control drapability of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, LT, WT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, WC, and RC of fusible interlining, LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and RC of lyocell face fabric, LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, LC, RC, and T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric must be considered; thirdly, to control crease recovery, WT, RT, G, 2HG, T and W of fusible interlining, LT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, LC and W of lyocell face fabric, LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, WC and T of lyocellinterlining bonded fabric must be considered.

bonded fabric, resulting in a decrease of drapability, which is improved with the increase of LC. Especially, LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and 2HB showed close correlation, from which it can be estimated that the drapability of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is much influenced by LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, and 2HB of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. The crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is estimated to positively correlate with WC, T, and negatively correlate with LT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5. This means that the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric improves as WC and T increase, the crease recovery decreases as LT, G, 2HG, and 2HG5 increase. Especially, G and 2HG is estimated to have much influence on the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. Consequently, lyocell-interlining bonded fabric is flexible and drape with the decrease of LT, WT, EMT, G, 2HG, 2HG5, B, 2HB, RC, T of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and with the increase of LC of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric. And the crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric improves with the decrease of LT, G, 2HG, 2HG5 of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric and with the increase of

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