Krakow

Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights Shops Events Maps
KRAKW
October - November 2013
Street Art
Take a tour of Krakws
al ternative artworks
All Saints Day
Witness one of PLs
most intimate traditions
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
N84
5z (w tym 8% VAT)
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
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How to reach us:
tramways: 1, 9, 11, 14,
20, 22, 50
direction: Rondo Grzegrzeckie
tramways: 9, 50
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www.galeriakazimierz.pl
NEW
COLLECTIONS
4
Krakw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Feature
Street Art 8
Arrival & Transport 10
The Basics 15
Culture & Events 17
All Saints Day 24
Hotels 25
Restaurants 33
Cafs 56
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 60
Clubs 64
Kazimierz Nightlife 68
History 70
Sightseeing 72
Old Town 73
Wawel 83
Kazimierz 86
Podgrze 91
Jewish Ghetto 94
Salwator 96
Nowa Huta 98
Further Afield
Wieliczka 102
Auschwitz 105
Tarnw 108
Tyskie 111
Leisure 112
Shopping 114
Directory 120
Maps & Index
Street Register 121
City Centre Map 123
City Map 124
Tram Map 126
Nowa Huta Map 128
Listings Index 129
Features Index 130
Street art has become an increasingly familiar sight in
the urban fabric of Krakw over the last few years and
this issue we are pleased to make it the focus of our
feature. Here youll find no fewer or less varied artistic
statements than in any other Polish city. Keen observers
will notice the contrast/conflict between Blus critique of
Catholic obedience (pictured left, ul. Piwna 3a, J-4) and
Kubas reverent stencil of the Saviour (pictured above, ul.
Strezelecka 7, J-2), for example. Turn to page 8 for more.
Contents
Note that now not only can you use the maps in the back
of our guide to scout out street art locations ( just look for
the icon), but those with a smartphone can let the mobile
version of our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com) lead
you to exactly where they are.
6
Krakw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright Notice
Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP
Sp. z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication
may be reproduced in any form, except
brief extracts for the purpose of review,
without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The
brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket
(Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.
(+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
As the final glowing embers of summer are snuffed
from Krakws slow-burning candle, the citys autumnal
ambience unwinds like wisps of smoke at daybreak
across the river Wisa and we simply cant seem to help
ourselves from waxing poetic about our favourite time
of year in Polands most magical city. From afar, October
and November may not seem like the most attractive
months on the calendar for visiting PL, but youve
chosen wisely, as a nocturnal walk around the ancient
thoroughfares of Krakws UNESCO-listed Old Town will
no doubt quickly attest. At no other time of year are the
citys potent powers of enchantment, persuasion and
mad possession on such display as in the autumn an
effect which the locals knowingly attribute to the halny,
or mad wind from the mountains, which roars through
the city like an unseen serpent to stir the dark matter of
the brain. Hold on to your hat.
As the Polish nights grow long, the days begin to drape
themselves in a beguiling gauze of fog (as captured
on our cover by Pawe Krzan), the leaves perform that
brilliant chromatic manoeuver of theirs, and those of us
who live here awaken from our dog-day doldrums to don
the hats and scarves that signal our collective intent to
rise and reclaim the cobblestones of our city. By October
the marauding hordes of camera-wielding tourists have
been carted off in their consumptive comas to the gates
of their own cities, and replaced with spirited students -
resplendent with riches from their own foreign campaigns,
and eager to revenge themselves against every night
they were apart. Meanwhile, the citys self-proclaimed
artists and intellectuals return to their well-worn wheel
ruts in dim dram houses to blow blue smoke from their
beards. November, of course, begins with its annual
nocturnal pilgrimage to honour the ancestors (p.24),
before the seasons profound powers are used to peer
into the hot melted wax of the future (p.58). We can get
carried away, but we cant make this stuff up - its pure
Cracovian magic. Whatever unseen hand has guided you
to Krakw, use your own to grip this guide and go have
an unforgettable time. When inspiration strikes, send
your poems to editor_poland@inyourpocket.com
and maybe well use them to write next years foreword.
Thanks for reading and enjoy Krakw.
Editorial
Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
Research Manager Maria Rulaff
Researchers Oli wia Hojan,
Sandra Wilczewska
Events Maria Rulaff, Viahn Combrinck
Design & Layout Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket, Pawe Krzan
Cover Pawe Krzan, krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/d Manager
Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
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Agata Trocha 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz Manager
Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager
Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant
Joanna Szlosowska, 58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
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October - November 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com
8
Krakw In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
STREET ART STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with
large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone who
makes the strongly recommended visit to Krakws Poster
Gallery (ul. Stolarska 8-10, C-3) will easily discover why. The
art form actually flourished under communism and can still
be commonly seen in the stylish high-minded aesthetics of
posters all over the countrys walls and signboards. With such
a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would
have a penchant for street graphics as well. And they do. In
Krakw, as in other cities around PL, street art is currently
going through a tidal wave of popularity. While the city - long
known for its conservatism - may still lag behind cities like
Warsaw, Wrocaw and Katowice, which have established
themselves as the torchbearers for urban art in PL, in the
last few years new street murals have become a common
sight around Krakw as well. More restaurants and busi-
nesses - like Love Krove (ul. Brzozowa 17, D-6), Kadka Caf
(ul. Mostowa 12, E-7) Stairway Hostel (ul. Targowa 2, J-4) and
even Galeria Krakowska (ul. Pawia 5), to name a few - have
turned to street artists to playfully embellish their public
spaces, and city authorities have even taken the surprising
step of sponsoring some large scale murals around the city
centre. In fact, the emergence of street art as a growing
and legitimised artistic discipline has created an interest-
ing dichotomy in Krakws urban landscape between both
sanctioned and unsanctioned works of graffiti art and the
proli fic gang signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that
city paint crews have targeted in their war on vandalism.
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Krakw, and were making it
even easier. In addition to cataloguing street art addresses
throughout the city centre below, weve also marked each
place with a spray can symbol on the maps in the back of
our print guide, so you can literally use them to give yourself
a tour of Krakws urban art. Not only that, but weve put it
all online with GPS coordinates as well, so that those with
a smartphone can use the mobile version of our website
(krakow.inyourpocket.com) or iPhone application to do the
work for them. We encourage you to do just that, and check
out some of Krakws alternative artistic visions.
Jzef Mehoffer House A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26. This mu-
ral on the side of the Jzef Mehoffer House was done as part
of the ArtBoom Festival in 2012. Designed by Gdynia-born
M-City - one of Polands most well-known mural artists - the
piece is simply titled Mural no. 658 - a good indication of
how prolific the worldwide artist is. This, currently his only
work in Krakw, depicts the city as a dystopian fortress/
steam ship, bombarded from all sides by fish resembling
ammunition. While youre there, sneak into the Meho Cafe
garden in the courtyard of the museum - its lovely, and in
perfect contrast to the artists vision.
Maopolska Ogrd Sztuki A-2, ul. Szujskiego 6.
Located along a wall off of ul. Szujskiego near the entrance
to the Maopolska Garden of the Arts Arteteka library, this
surreal, macabre mural by Sao Paulo artist Paulo Ito features
plenty of wacky ghosts and ghouls. While youre there, check
out the Pauza bar located just down the stairs.
(R)evolution: Its Peaceful A-2, ul. Karmelicka 28.
This mural by leading Wrocaw street artist ZBK was created
in 2011 in coordination with an exhibit about Wroaws
Orange Alternative absurdist protest movement. Across the
street on the other side of the parking lot is another small
piece of stencil art.
Barcelona B-3, ul. Straszewskiego 24. Created as part
of the ArtBoom festival, this wall poem pays tribute to the now
departed Barcelona bar which once occupied the building.
Known as a meeting place for artists, students and bohemians
alike, Adam Ziemianin once called the legendary bar a For-
tress of Intellectual Thought, and Bartolomeo Koczenasz has
reproduced his poem on the wall of this Old Town tenement.
Siatanici B-7, ul. Barska 63. One of Krakws first large-
scale murals, created by the Twoywo art group in 2009 as
part of ArtBoom. The image, depicting young people clad in
black with red shopping bags, critiques consumerism with
clever wordplay between siata (large shopping bag) and
satanici (satanists).
Trololo C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1. Krakws most central, and
most cheeky example of graffiti art. A Soviet celebrity, turned
internet meme, turned street stencil, Trololo is perhaps a
perfect microcosm of our times. That someone managed to
pull this off right on May Rynek is impressive. Artist unknown.
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17. This hip burger joint in
Kazimierz is full of awesome murals and illustrations. Dont
miss the beefed-up superheroes in the basement.
For Gods Sake, Censorship is Everywhere D-7, ul.
w. Wawrzyca 5. This large mural was done by Pikaso in
2012 as part of the Grolsch ArtBoom festival. The image is
apparently a reaction to the rejection of his original design
for the space.
ul. Boego Ciaa 27 D-7, ul. Boego Ciaa 27. Geomet-
ric patterns and designs by an unknown artist. Located in
what was a childrens playground and park, and is currently
an archaeological site, and closed to the public.
Galeria Krakowska E-1, ul. Pawia 5. The subject of a
design competition, Justyna Posiecz-Polkowskas winning
entry adorns the side of the Galeria Krakowska shopping
mall that faces the train platforms, and is therefore one of the
first things those arriving in Krakw by train see of the city.
ul. Kopernika train underpass E-3, Corner of ul.
Kopernika and ul. Blich. Located under the train overpass,
this perhaps deliberately ambiguous religious figure in white
robes beckons, Come to me, all of you. Nearby, on the other
side of the overpass, is a white stencil of the Virgin Mary.
ul. Miodowa 55 E-5, ul. Miodowa 55. A fashionable
couple posing on the facade of the 1903 mortuary of the
New Jewish Cemetery. Artist unknown.
Galicia Jewish Museum E- 6, ul. Dajwr 18. The
Galicia Jewish Museum held a contest for the decoration
of their exterior wall, with the winning entry going to Marcin
Wierzchowski. The large mural of a Jewish menorah ironically
overlooks the Kitsch clubbing complex next door at ul.Dajwr
16, and in the basement club youll see more graffiti art.
Judah E-6, Corner of ul. Wawrzyca and ul. Wska.
Entitled Judah, this large mural by Pil Peled - one of Israels
most famous street artists - was created in July 2013 as
part of the Jewish Culture Festival. According to the artist,
the image of the child represents fear, vulnerability and the
inner child, and the lion represents the Jews struggle to
survive and preserve their culture, as well as the strength to
overcome their fears. To us, it looks like Princess Mononoke.
Kadka Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 12. A hip cafe/bar near
the Bernatek Footbridge, decorated with weird, wonderful
murals of surreal creatures by Mikoaj Rejs.
ul. Strzelecka 7 J-2, ul. Strzelecka 7. A large stencil
of Jesus across from the Childrens Hospital, the work is
signed Kuba.
Ding Dong Dumb J-4, ul. Piwna 3a. Perhaps Krakws
most impressive and controversial mural, painted by well-
known Bolognese artist Blu in 2011. The murals ironic intent
is to take a jab at the relationship between Polish culture and
its relationship with the Catholic Church. The fact that it is
located in the area of the former Jewish Ghetto only makes it
more thought-provoking. In front of the mural where ul. Piwna
and ul. Jzefiska meet is another interesting piece of public
art: a seesaw designed by Magorzata Markiewicz and dedi-
cated to Polish writer Witold Gombrowicz. Installed in 2012,
the inscription reads For Gombrowicz From His Compatriots.
Lems Robot J-4, ul. Jzefiska 24. Located at the cor-
ner of ul. Jzefiska and ul. Krakusa in Podgrze, this mural
is dedicated to native Cracovian and famous science fiction
writer Stanisaw Lem - most well-known internationally for his
novel, Solaris. Created by Filip Kuniarz in November 2012
as part of the Conrad Festival of literature, the inscription an-
ticipates the eventual domination of machines over mankind.
Stairway Hostel J-4, ul. Targowa 2. Graffiti art adorns
the interior courtyard and staircase of this hostel only 50
metres from Plac Bohaterw Getta in Podgrze.
Fabryka K-4, ul. Zabocie 23. The old Miraculum Cosmet-
ics Factory in Zabocie has been transformed into Fabryka
- an alternative venue for concerts, club nights, exhibitions
and other events. The large complex is full of art studios,
graffiti art and other weirdness.
ul. Kcik 18 K-4, ul. Kcik 18. Next to the old Wawel
chocolate factory on the way to Schindlers Factory from
Plac Bohaterw Getta. Across the street is more mural art.
Graffiti art by Paulo Ito at Maopolska Ogrd Sztuki
'Judah' mural by Pil Peled
M-Citys mural at the Jzef Mehoffer House
ZBKs (R)evolution: Its Peaceful
11
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
10
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Bus
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.kra-
kow.pl. International buses arrive and depart from the bus
terminal (Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind
the train station. Here youll find a 24-hour toilet, snack bar,
restaurant, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM (bankomat) and
information point (open 07:00-20:00). Lockers for left lug-
gage cost 6-14z (depending on size) for 24 hours, however
are unavailable when the main hall is closed between 22:00
and 06:00. During this time there is a separate night time
waiting room.
Tunnels connect the bus and train stations. Still the best
way to get into town, with or without getting lost, is to make
a right from the bus station into the train station tunnel,
walk past the platforms and follow the stairs or ramp to
the left back into daylight (beware of getting sucked into
the shopping mall). Cut through the main ticket hall of the
train station, cross the square in front of Galeria Krakowska
and take the underpass into the Planty. Congrats, youre
in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus
station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.pl
which is now in English.
Mini-bus is actually your best option for getting to some des-
tinations like Wieliczka and Niepoomice. Many mini-buses
leave from the lot across from Galeria Krakowska at the
corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2), a short walk from
the main bus station. Q Ticket Office open 07:00 - 19:45.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of di fferent
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result
in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
While the road quality issue is being slowly addressed with
EU directives and funding, the countrys clueless drivers
are a trickier fix to be sure. Exercise caution, keep a safe
distance from the vehicle in front, rub those rosary beads
and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside ur-
ban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr
on motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched
on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit,
replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper
registration and insurance documents. Poland also has
strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. EU
citizens may use their home driving licences as long as they
are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we
know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your licence and
passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway
runs right through Krakw connecting it to Berlin (via Kato-
wice, Opole and Wrocaw) to the west and Tarnw to the east
(though further expansion of this road is planned). While the
80km stretch east to Tarnw is still currently toll-free, a 9z
toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the direction of
Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itsel f is incredibly frustrating with
constant roadwork bei ng done, one-way streets and
seemingl y available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine
are incredibly high, whether youve realised your infraction
or not. Krakws road network is not at all adequate for
the volume of cars on its roads and parking is yet another
challenge. Put it all together and we recommend you ditch
your vehicle in favour of public transportation at the first
opportunity. Street parking is available under the large
parking signs on the sidewalk and youll have to buy a pass
from the neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, though
parking machines have now replaced them in many areas.
The cost of street parking is 3z for the first hour, 3.50z
for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after that back to
3z. Public parking lots are also marked on the map in the
back of this guide.
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot legally
drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle from the
police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know from bor-
rowing their girlfriends car, or renting one for that matter).
Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Eu r o p ca r J - 4, u l .
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific require-
ments. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
J o k a D - 2 , u l .
Zaci s z e 7 (3r d
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53 68,
www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars including Audis,
BMWs, Kias and Subarus up to the spacious Mercedes
E220 CDi station wagon. All cars are equipped with power
steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available.
Special rates offered to those who order through the Joka
website. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed
Sun. Outside of these hours on request.
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23,
tel. (+48) 601 20 07 02,
www.avis.pl. I nternati on-
ally trusted service offering a
range a vehicles from two-door sedans to luxury mini-
vans. Located here near the train station and also at the
airport (ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00).
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
9
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12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
By Train
Main Train Station (Dworzec Gwny) E-1, Pl.
Jana Nowaka - Jezioraskiego 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19
757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Krakws main railway station, Dworzec Gwny, is
conveniently situated at the northern edge of the Old Town,
making taxis and trams largely unnecessary for those with
accommodation in the Old Town. Not so convenient are the
ongoing renovation works - part of a plan to transfer the
railway station completely underground and transform it into
a modern transportation hub incorporating the bus station
as well. To date, all of the platforms have been modernised
and are open, however work on other areas of the station,
including one of the tunnels, are ongoing. Travellers should
anticipate some minor confusion and inconvenience until all
the work is finished, which from what we hear should take
place in December of this year.
Upon disembarking your train, youll be herded underground
into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads straight into
the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping mall; head up
the stairs before the entrance to avoid getting lost in the mall.
With no facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path
alongside the tracks to the original main hall where youll find
an ATM (bankomat), currency exchange booth (kantor), and
left luggage lockers.
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train stations
main hall youll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop ahead and to the left (on ul. Lubicz) and a taxi
rank straight ahead on ul. Pawia. It is less than a ten minute
walk to Rynek Gwny (the market square) from the train sta-
tion, arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe
and highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived.
Crossing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels
Hotel and following the crowds through the underpass to the
other side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the
majority of Krakws hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right,
make a left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path of
kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy)
are indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards
(przyjazdy) are the white ones. Check the timetables online
at the Polish railways website - rozklad.pkp.pl - which has
limited but effective English language functionality. If you
want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead. If
in a rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from
the conductor, but expect a surcharge. [Note that tickets for
the shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.]
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types
of train, which basically determine the length of the journey,
its comfort and cost. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the
fastest and most expensive, giving you an assigned seat for
the extra money. EuroCity (EC) trains offer international con-
nections and require the paid premium for seat reservation
as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the
markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which offer
second class compartments free of reservation fees (though
you may end up sitting in the aisle), and InterREGIO (IR) trains
which have no seat reservation fees. With these budget op-
tions you pay less, but the journey will take longer and may
try your good humour with the potential for overcrowding and
being forced to sit or stand in the aisle. Q Open 24hrs. Note
that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot
be made from 00:00 to 01:00.
The work of architect Peter Rosenbaum - who would go on
to design Wrocaws immaculate station ten years later
- the main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with
neo-renaissance decorations like turrets and crenella-
tions whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern-
ment quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is king
and the commies had run out of it; the only sign of their
grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT building,
lovingly referred to by locals as Szkieletor. The years
since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted Krakws
train station any peace either, however the changes
have largely been met positively as the area received
a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and a new
plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall now
represent Krakws main gateway into the city.
Presently the subject of a 63 million PLN investment
to create a brand new transportation hub connecting
the train, bus, airport shuttle and local tram services
underground, Krakws train station is set to receive
a new, modernised 12,000m2 ticket hall, as well as
new waiting areas, a cafe, restaurants and passenger
service points such as tourist information. The new
transportation hub will be fully accessible to the dis-
abled and is expected to be done by the end of this year,
but were not holding our breath. In the meantime, only
one of the platform access tunnels is open (so expect
some confusion and congestion) and the old station
building appears to be headed towards redundancy
and the sales rack. However, lovers of the historical
building need not fret just yet. The local government
is in talks to take over the classic Rosenbaum building
from the train company and convert it into a gallery.
Heres hoping its put to good use.
Station History
Wikipedia/Axe
15
BASICS
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer. Most
countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland.
If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their age and
value. In order to leave the country, art must be both less than
50 years old and under a certain value (varies depending by
type; photos 6,000z, other art 16,000z, for example); if these
conditions are met, the gallery curator then can (and should)
provide you with a zawiadczenie (permission document)
describing the artworks price and when and where it was cre-
ated. If the work exceeds the permitted age or value, you must
get permission from the Wojewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw
(Regional Curators Office) to take it out of Poland; bear in mind
that this process will likely take 2-3 months. Books must be less
than 100 years old and under 6,000z in value in order to leave
the country; otherwise, permission must be obtained from the
National Library. Obviously, problems arise when purchases are
made at bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide
the necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value
or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer - see shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are coming
from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a
plug converter. The best place to pick these up is at home
though if you do arrive without a converter try your luck with
your hotel reception; they should be able to point you to an
electrical store if they cant provide a converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
English, German and Russian speakers have the option of
using separate lines specifically designed for foreigners in
distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or + 48 22 278 77 77.
Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land
line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles during
your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours
during the high-tourist season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can be
found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can
be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can
also be found in the Directory. If its a financial emergency your
hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such
transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in Poland,
with practically every caf and restaurant offering wi-fi to
customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting on the
network often requires nothing more than a password, which
you can request of your favourite bartender or barista with
a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? If you dont have
your own gadgets we offer a few Internet cafe options below.
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Dietla 69, tel. (+48) 12 397
80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Six PCs complete with ev-
erything you need to keep in touch, plus printing and postal
services. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Computer use 5z/hr.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 03 26, www.
nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. 5z
for first hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning
available.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2012)
Poland: 38,533,299
Warsaw: 1,715,517
Krakw: 758,334
d: 718,960
Wrocaw: 631,188
Pozna: 550,742
Gdask: 460,427
Katowice: 307,233
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail-
able, priced at 60z and 80z respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Krakw
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
Tourist Card
Public Transport
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does have an
integrated bus and tram system which runs from 05:00-23:00,
with night buses continuing less frequently after that. Get tickets
from the handy ticket machines (also in English) at major stops,
on-board most trams and buses, or from the driver immediately
on boarding if there is no ticket machine. Note that the ticket
machines on board trams and buses do not accept bills, so it
is important to have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within the
alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a cost
of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it should
take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal for travel
around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgrze. If youre going
outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example), we recommend
you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80z. 1-hour, 24-hour,
48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes for
16.00z are also options, or consider the Krakw Tourist Card
(see Basics), which includes unlimited free travel on trams
and buses amongst its benefits. Note that ISIC and Euro26
Student cards are valid for transport ticket discounts, but you
must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immediately
on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines on-board,
even if you bought your ticket on-board. Beware that sneaky
plain-clothed inspectors regularly travel on the lines hand-
ing out costly fines to those without valid or proper tickets.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. w. Wawrzyca
13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl. Use this
website to find local bus schedules.
Taxis
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead should get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure you choose a clearly marked cab with
a company name and phone number displayed, as well as
a sticker demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now
legally obliged to give you a printed receipt at journeys end
further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You can
expect a standard fare to be about 7z plus about 2.30z per
kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares increase
by up to 50%.
For those just arriving, there is a taxi rank across the square
from the main train station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the
stairs from the platforms to find reliable Radio Taxi 919 on
the rooftop parking lot.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if youre Polish, the driver may
not expect one. But double standards being what they are, its
anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which case 10% is
appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi, tel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
Radio Taxi 919, tel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
By Plane
Krakw Airport ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel.
(+48) 12 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Located
17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport is currently the
subject of one of the largest airport investments in history
(estimated at one billion zoty), and as such, will resemble a
confounding construction site until some time in 2015
when the work is scheduled to conclude. The project will
completely renovate and restructure the current passenger
terminals, making them three times larger and capable of
processing 1800 arriving and another 1800 departing pas-
sengers during peak times. A covered footbridge will connect
the new terminal to the multi-level parking garage, 4-star
Hilton Garden Inn hotel (currently being built) and new train
station (also under construction). The new airport will also
be better integrated with the A4 motorway and several other
new internal and external roadways, and the entire complex
will be handicap accessible, of course.
All the while, the airport will remain open and authorities
are focussed on somehow not obstructing its operation.
What does this mean for you? Beyond headaches its hard
to say specifically, but its a given that you should grant
yourself extra time not only at the airport before your
flight but also getting there. Traffic around the terminals
is currently a nightmare, and airport authorities are warning
drivers to pay very close attention to the numerous signs
rerouting traffic.
As it was constructed, the Krakw Airport consisted of two
small terminals - the domestic, offering little more than a
pricey cafe, newsstand and ATM (bankomat); and the inter-
national, with currency exchange, ATMs, a cafe, restaurant,
tourist information point (open 09:00 - 20:00), and 24hr
lockers (9z). Getting through check-in and security should
still be relatively speedy, but were not sure how available
these other services will be. Note that the two terminals
are on opposite ends of the airport complex and you have
to walk around the entire perimeter to get from one to the
other (one of the main reasons we presume this whole
project is being done).
The best way to get to the airport from the Old Town,
and vice versa, is by train. A free shuttle bus runs regularly
between the international and domestic terminals, picking
passengers up directly outside the entrance and taking
them the short distance to the Krakw Airport train stop
(coordinated with the train times, so relax, you cant miss
one). Train tickets are purchased from the conductor on
board the train, and currently cost 12z one way. If leaving
from Krakw Gowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to
the airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from
machines on the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains
from the airport run frequently between 06:00 and 23:00
with a journey time of about 15-20mins.
Public buses 292 (departs every 20mins) and 208 (once
an hour) also make the journey between the train station
and the airport. This is a much cheaper option, though the
journey takes about 35-40mins, depending on traffic. Buy a
4z fare for Zones I and II from the ticket machine at the stop,
or from the driver. Night bus 902 makes the same trip with
departures at 23:25, 00:21, 01:21, 02:21, 03:21 and 03:55.
The airport now also has its own trusted Krakow Airport Taxi
service with vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrances.
The advantages are a set price of 69z from the airport to
the Old Town, with no monkey business and no night time
price hikes. Solid.
Youll find a map of the tram system in the back of this
guide on pages 126-127. Note, however, that there
may be changes in service due to construction during
the lifetime of this guide.
Tram Map
17
CULTURE & EVENTS
16
BASICS
Law & Order
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems i f they simply
employ common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travel-
lers should be on guard against pickpockets; i f youre in
a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. Those
travelling by car are advised to use the guarded car parks
we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps the biggest danger
in Krakw is posed by groups of drunken football hooligans
who can be easily avoided and heard coming a mile away.
Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young women
who take an overactive interest in them and suggest go-
ing to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they
stand the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly
inflated drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately,
it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is signi ficantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. I f youre determined
to make an idiot of yoursel f then make sure its not in
front of the law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of
geniuses - from those in Chewbacca costumes to com-
plete prats whove thought it perfectly acceptable to drop
their trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain - have
tested the patience of local law enforcement, which is now
decidedly low so dont push your luck. Those who do may
well be treated to a trip to Krakws premier drunk tank
on ul. Rozrywka (which literally translates as Entertain-
ment Street), where you can expect a strip search, a set
of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling
vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not
accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see Arrival & Transport,
Public Transport) and, silly as it seems, by jaywalking. If you
are from a country which doesnt have or respect jaywalking
laws, youll be surprised to see crowds of people standing
obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. The
reason for obeying this little rule is the fact that the local city
police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine
for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or
a 100z fine when the walk light is red. And dont think you
are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to
the law and your non-residency means you will be forced to
pay the fine on the spot.
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of September 19, 2013
based on 1 = 4.19z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 8.70 z 2.08
Snickers 1.59 z 0.38
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.49 z 5.61
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.99 z 0.71
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 z 1.67
Loaf of white bread 2.99 z 0.71
20 Marlboros 13.60 z 3.25
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.77 z 1.38
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.80 z 0.91
Market Values
Many Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy
command of the English language. Many are also
adept at other European languages with German being
the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will fiercely
contest that they have forgotten the Russian taught
to them at school but most will still have a reasonable
understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal,
often resulting in personal degradation as shop
assistants laugh at your flustered attempts. That aside,
learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in
Krakw and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is one of the most difficult
languages for native English speakers to learn. On the
upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled
the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once
you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of
letters. While many letters represent the same sounds
as they do in English, below we have listed those
particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and
phrases. Powodzenia (good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation:
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Yes Tak (Tahk)
No Nie (Nyeh)
Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch)
Hello/Good day
(formal)
Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri)
Good evening
(formal)
Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya)
Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)
Please Prosz (Prosheh)
Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh)
Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)
Im from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee)
Do you speak
English?
Czy mwisz po
angielsku?
(Che moo-veesh po
an-gyel-skoo?)
I dont speak
Polish.
Nie mwi po
polsku.
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po
pol-skoo.)
I dont understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)
Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)
Where are the
toilets?
Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
You are beauti ful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.)
Please take me
home.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
(Prosheh za-byesh
mnyeh doh doh-moo.)
Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh
mnyeh!)
Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)
Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah
Ess)
One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)
Language Smarts Art Galleries
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery (Galeria Autorska An-
drzeja Mleczki) C-2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel. (+48) 12
421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 16, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5 (2nd floor), tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66, www.galeria-
pauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com.QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Space Gallery B-2, ul. w. Marka 7, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 94, www.spacegallery.com.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:30,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12
656 43 17, www.starmach.eu.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Cinemas
ARS Cinema C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12
421 41 99, www.ars.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 30 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 12-20z.
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of-
fice open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 16-32z.
Cinema City Plaza L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12
290 90 90, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the
last showtime. Tickets 14-30z.
IMAX Krakw L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.kinoimax.pl.Q Box office open 30 minutes
before the first showtime to 15 minutes after the last show-
time. Tickets 20-30z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 00 33, www.kijow.pl.QBox of fi ce open 30
minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 12-25z.
Kino Agrafka C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 01 79, www.kinoagrafka.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 10-18z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 45 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes
after the last showtime. Tickets 7-22z.
City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421
77 87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who
can tell you whats going on and who can sell you tickets
as well. Also the publishers of Karnet, a comprehensive
monthly listing of cultural events in Polish and English. Q
Open 09:00 - 19:00. From Novmber open 10:00 - 18:00.
Information & Tickets
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
Krakw In Your Pocket October - November 2013 krakow.inyourpocket.com krakow.inyourpocket.com
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.Q Open 08:30 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Cervantes Institute C-5, ul. Kanonicza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 421 32 55, cracovia.cervantes.es.QOpen
09:30 - 19:30, Fri 09:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library
open 12:00 - 15:00, 16:30 - 19:45, Tue, Wed 09:30 - 13:00,
15:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 14:00 and every last Sat of the
month 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 20, tel. (+48) 12 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau.QOpen 11:00 - 16:00; Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00.
Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Italian Cultural Institute (Woski Instytut Kultu-
ry) C-5, ul. Grodzka 49, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 43, www.
iiccracovia.esteri.it.QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, Mon 10:00
- 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library open
13:00 - 17:00; Tue, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Thu, Sat, Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci
ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.Q Open 10:00
- 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation (Fundacja Judaica) D-6, ul.
Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z,
Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
Rotunda (Centrum Kultury Rotunda) H-3, ul. Olean-
dry 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 65 16, www.rotunda.pl.QBox
office open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire.
Tickets depending on repertoire.
Opera Stages
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.
pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-140z.
Philharmonic Stages
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 1 hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 20-60z.
Theatre Stages
Bagatela Theatre B-2, ul. Karmelicka 6, tel. (+48) 12 424
52 00, www.teatr.pl. The theatre also has a second stage at
ul. Sarego 7 (D-4). Q Box office open 09:00 - 19:15, Mon 10:00
- 19:15, Sun three hours before the spectacle. Tickets 49-65z.
Groteska Theatre A-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 48 22, www.groteska.pl. Q Box office open
08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00; Sun 2 hours before perfor-
mance. Tickets 15-50z.
S owacki Theat r e ( Teat r i m. J ul i usz a
Sowackiego) D-2, Pl. w. Ducha 1, tel. (+48) 12
424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl. Q Box office
open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00; Mon 10:00 - 14:00,
14:30 - 18:00; Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 20-65z.
Stary Teatr (Old Theatre) C-3, ul. Jagielloska 1,
tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.pl. Q Box office
open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and 2 hours before the
spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
Krakw Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera
Kameralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430
66 06, www.kok.art.pl. The beginnings of the Krakw
Chamber Opera can be traced back to 1991 although
it didnt find a permanent place it could call home until
2000 during which time they appeared around Poland
and the world as guest performers. They have been
described by poorly translated critics as probably the
most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team in Poland
which appreciates good tone of music, costume and
vividness. Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-100z.
30.11 Saturday
Nutcracker and the Mouse King
One of the worlds most popular ballets, this musical
fable for children and adults is based on the work of
Ernst Theodor Amadeus Hoffmann. The story, i f you
somehow arent familiar with it, is of Marys Christmas
toy that comes to life and battles the evil Mouse King,
whereafter Mary and the nutcracker journey into a fai-
rytale land, witnessing wonderful things until she finally
passes out in his castle. Returned back at home, she
makes a promise big enough to break a spell cast on the
toymakers nephew, turning him back into a handsome
prince that takes her to Doll Kingdom as his princess.
Everyone dances. Q Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 40-
100z. Available at Krakw Chamber Opera box office.
Krakw Chamber Opera
Pawe Zechenter, Krakw Chamber Opera Archive
Concerts
13.10 Sunday
Robert Kasprzycki Band
H-3, ul. Oleandry 1, www.rotunda.pl. Prominent local
poet, singer, composer and showman Robert Kasprzycki
will be celebrating two decades of performing at Krakws
Rotunda cultural centre, where he once made his stage
debut. A well-known name in the Polish tradition of sung
poetry, the band will be presenting Kasprzyckis well -
known hits, new songs being prepared for their upcoming
al bum Four, plus ol der material in new arrangements,
playing with their content and breaking the mould a bit.
Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 30-35z. Available at
Rotunda box office (Open 16:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depend-
ing on repertoire).
15.10 Tuesday
Gordon Haskell
Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza). Creating music
for forty years alongside some of the biggest artists in the
industry, Gordon Haskells name may not be as well-known,
but his reputation speaks for itself: he was a member of King
Crimson and played with Jimi Hendrix, Van Morrison and Cliff
Richard. His deep, raspy, but soothing voice, which is able to
stop anyone in their tracks and pay attention, has often been
compared to that of Leonard Cohen, as has his repertoire
of primarily melancholic ballads. There is a mutual respect
between Gordon and the Polish crowds that has ensured his
return and a warm welcome when he steps onto the stage
in Krakw. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 85-95z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Studio Club (ul. Budryka 4,
open 10:00 - 19:00) and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
20.10 Sunday
Beata i Bajm
H-3, Kijw.Centrum (Cinema), Al. Krasiskiego 34. 35
years ago in Lublin, the name BAJM was formed by combining
the founder members names (Beata, Andrzej, Jarosaw and
Marek), from which only Beata, the bands songwriter and
singer, now remains. This Polish pop-rock band has sold 3
million records, toured the world with 5000 concerts, released
14 albums - each of which has gone either platinum or gold -
and will be performing their greatest electric and acoustic hits
in a special celebratory tour for their anniversary. Q Concert
starts at 17:00. Tickets 70-120z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl, Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00) and Kijw.Centrum box ofiice (open
30 minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime).
20.10 Sunday
Kenny Garrett
J-1, University of Economics, ul. Rakowicka 27. Best
known for the five years he spent playing with Miles Da-
vis, Kenny Garrett is an American jazz saxophonist from
Detroit. He released the first of many albums in 1984
and has performed and recorded with many other jazz
greats during his career, including Art Blakey, Joe Hen-
derson, Brad Mehldau, Freddie Hubbard and many more.
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
Festivals
08.10 Tuesday - 24.11 Sunday
Krakw Jazz Autumn
Event takes place in various locations, www.kjj -
festiwal.pl. The festival has established itself in the last
seven years as one of the most important festival scenes,
not only in Europe, but around the world. Some of the most
versatile and dynamic musicians of todays improvised music
scene have starred at the festival, with Peter Brtzmann,
Anthony Braxton, Barry Guy and Ken Vandermark taking
the lead, both as headline performers and also as artists-in-
residence. The highlights of this years Krakow Jazz Autumn
will be two weekly concert blocks - Mats Gustafsons NU
Ensemble in October and Ken Vandermarks Resonance in
November. Q Tickets 25-70z. Available at www.kj j-festiwal.
pl or before the concert.
In 2011, Kenny was presented with an Honorary Doctorate
in Music Degree from Berklee College of Music in Boston
and won Saxophonist of the Year in 2012. This is a must-
see performance by an artist at the very top of his game.
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 100-140z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
15.11 Friday
Drum Fest: Gavin Harrison & 05Ric
Studio Club, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza). Best known for
playing with the bands Porcupine Tree and King Crimson, Eng-
lish drummer and percussionist Gavin Harrison was recently
rated by Rolling Stone magazine as the third best drummer of
the past 25 years. His five-year collaboration with 05Ric has
produced three very carefully crafted albums - Drop, Circles
and, most recently, The Man Who Sold Himself. Catch them
live as they push the boundaries of music at Klub Studio in
Krakow. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 40-50z. Avail-
able at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska,
D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
17.11 Sunday
Electric Light Orchestra
H-2, Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 33, www.mak-
roconcert.com/pl. Electric Light Orchestra, aka ELO, hail from
Birmingham, play rock, and these days operate during short
periods of activity (they did the bulk of their work between 1970
and 1983). The band released 13 studio albums and no less
than 37 compilation albums, selling over 50 million records
worldwide. Why Electric Light? Its an intended pun, and stems
from the mash of electric instruments and light orchestra. Q
Concerts start at 16:00 and 19:00. Tickets 120-190z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia
5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
24.11 Sunday
Candy Dulfer
H-2, Auditorium Maximum, ul. Krupnicza 33, www.
makroconcert.com/pl. Candy Dulfer is a Dutch smooth
jazz and funk alto saxophonist, and she really likes sax puns
- or at least did back in the nineties, if her album titles are
any indication. She was born in 1969 and started her music
career reeeal early, recording for her fathers band De Perikels
at age eleven. Her most recent album, Crazy, was released
in 2011. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 130-190z.
Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska,
D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Exhibitions
27.06 Thursday - 15.04 Tuesday
Cracovia Iudaeorum 3D
E-6, Old Synagogue, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48) 12 422
09 62, www.mhk.pl. This exhibition at the Kupa Synagogue
in Kazimierz journeys back in time to the fifteenth and sev-
enteenth centuries. Thanks to digital reconstructions of the
urban layout of early residential areas in Krakw that were
inhabited by Jews, it is now possible to see what their houses
looked like centuries ago. Among the particularly noteworthy
exhibits is a coin with the effigy of a bearded Jew that was
minted by a Jewish mincer in Krakw in the first half of the
thirteenth century. Other equally remarkable items are on
display including vessels and fragments of earthenware
with inscriptions in Hebrew. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. From November open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7z,
family ticket 18z, Mon free.
12. 3 - 3. 11
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The Human Body
K-4, Fabryka Club, ul. Zabocie 23, www.human-
body.pl. Fascinating, informative, and a tad bit macabre:
exhibits featuring preserved human bodies have been
increasingly popular in recent years. If youre not too
faint of heart, and up for a spellbinding journey into the
beauty and complexity of human anatomy, the Human
Body Exhibition will be showcasing over 200 thematically
organized organs and bodies. Q Open 09:00 - 19:30.
Admission 50z during the week, 60z on weekends; dis-
counts for students, seniors, children, and the disabled.
Available at www.eventim.pl and the venue.
The Human Body
Franciszek Starowieyski (19302009). Wir-
tuoz formy
H-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This exhibition of
film posters by famous Polish painter Francis Starowieyski
reminds us of the genius and creativity that was lost when
he passed away four years ago. A charismatic character
recognised by the general public for his own distinctive style,
Starowieyski created posters advertising films, theater and
opera, and his repertoire never included any commercial or
political work. He was also a representative of the Polish
Poster School featured in an exhibition at New Yorks MoMA
in 2009. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 19z.
18.10 Friday - 26.01 Sunday
If You Shoot One of Them
K- 4, Museum of Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. A year-long
project by Marta Deskur has resulted in this exhibition
about what happens when two individuals representing
the West and East (the artist and her subj ect, Manj u
Padavai, respectively) step into each others shoes but
are unable to understand each others cul tures. In her
multimedia installations focussing on film and photogra-
phy Deskur often explores issues of religion, culture and
relationships. Born in 1962 in Krakow, Deskur studied at
the Academy of Fine Arts in Krakow before spending five
years at the cole Suprieure dArt in Aix-en-Provence; she
now lives and works in both Paris and Krakow. Q Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 10/5z, Tue free.
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
09.10 Wednesday - 13.10 Sunday
Grechuta Festival
Event takes pl ace i n vari ous l ocati ons, www.
grechutafestival.pl. Starti ng on the 9th of October
(the day of Marek Grechutas death), this festi val will
be taking place for the seventh time and span over fi ve
days. Young, budding tal ents compete to be one of the
twenty finalists that will be chosen to per form their own
interpretations of Grechutas beloved songs in Krakow. It
is the bi ggest cel ebration of this l egendary Polish l yricist
and musi cians l egacy, and a festi val that can be equall y
enj oyed by those who grew up wi th Grechutas timel ess
songs, and those who di dn t. Q Ti ckets 0-99z. Avail -
abl e at Ki j w.Centrum box of fi ce (H-3, Al. Krasiski ego
34, open 30 minutes before the first showtime until the
last showtime).
16.10 Wednesday - 20.10 Sunday
Krakw Theatrical Reminiscences
Event takes place in various locations, www.rmnsc.
pl. Dating back to the mid-seventies, in its 38th edition
this long-standing, still-evolving festival will be presenting
several performances and events showcasing a di fferent
perspective on art, politics and society, bravely reflected
on the surrounding reality. Both Polish and foreign theatre
troupes will be participating in the contemporary dance
shows, film screenings, international workshops, panel
discussions, artist meetings, art walks through urban resi-
dential space and so much more. The result is as aesthetic
as it is intellectual, setting out to entertain the spectators
as much as to ask them di fficult questions through theatre.
Q Tickets 10-35z. Available at Bunkier Sztuki (B-2, Pl.
Szczepaski 3a; open 11:00 - 18:00), www.rmnsc.pl or
before events.
10.10 Thursday - 20.10 Sunday
7x Gospel 2013
Event t akes pl ace i n var i ous l ocat i ons,
www.7xgospel.com.pl. Starting out fourteen years
ago as the first Gospel workshop on Polish soil, word
of its success got out quickly and soon new choirs and
workshops were being organised all over the country.
By 2003 the Gospel Music Week was created, and
choirs could step out and present themselves in the
gospel music scene. In 2006 the Gospel Music Week
was transformed into 7x Gospel Festival, offering the
opportunity to learn more about this type of music
through jam sessions, films, concerts and workshops.
Until now the Festival has had many well-known gospel
musicians visiting from both Europe and the US, as well
as the best Polish gospel choirs.
10.10, 19:00, Festival Opening - Krakw Gospel Choir
and DeocentriCity, Church of St. Kazimierz Krlewicz, (ul.
Reformacka 4, B/C-2)
11-13.10, Vocal workshop Free Your Voice - In-
structors: Wayne Ellington, Rafa ur, Szymon Markiewicz,
Church of Jesus Christ (ul. Goszczyskiego 8, Podgrze)
13.10, 19:00, The final concert of the Free Your
Voice workshops - Mezcal Club, (ul. Meiselsa 18, D-6)
16.10, 29:00, Gospel After Hours - Jam session at
Pod Jaszczurami Club, (Rynek 8, C-3)
17.10, 19:00, Meeting with the artists - Pod Jaszc-
zurami Club, (Rynek 8, C-3)
16, 17, 20.10, Mama Gospel Workshops - Rodzinka
Cafe, (ul. Floriaska 15, C-3)
14, 15, 16, 20.10 Using sign language in song
workshops - Instructors: Rhonda and Macy Adams,
Sweet Surrender, (ul. Zabocie 25, Podgrze)
14, 17, 20.10 Music Without Borders - a gospel
workshop for people over 50, Podgrze Dom Kultury,
(ul. Sokolska 13, J-4)
18-20.10 Gospel Workshop for Children - Podgrze
Dom Kultury, (ul. Sokolska 13, J-4)
18-20.10 Gospel Workshops - Instructors: Dathan
Thigpen, Brian Fentress; Theatre Hall at the Parish of
St. Jadwiga (ul. okietka 60, Krowodrza)
20.10, 18:00 Final Concert of the 7xGOSPEL Festi-
val - Convention Centre of the University of Agriculture,
(Al. 29 Listopada 26, J-1). Tickets 20z.
7x Gospel 2013
Theatre
27.10 Sunday
The Musical Biography of Frank Sinatra
H-3, Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34. The musical biog-
raphy of Ol Blue Eyes transports one back to Las Vegas in the
50s and 60s, when jazz and swing were the dominating sounds
and this legendary American singer and actor was top of the
heap. In this - the latest in a growing number of dedications to
Franks life and work - youll hear some of his most popular songs,
including My Way, New York, New York and Strangers In The
Night among others, in a performance that involves more than
one hundred artists. Q Event starts at 20:00. Tickets 80-120z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1,
ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
24.11 Sunday
ABBA - The Symphonic Story
D-2, Sowacki Theatre, Pl. w. Ducha 1. An innovative
symphonic arrangement combined with timeless disco hits
have made this show just as popular as the band it mines for
material. Tracking the story of Agnetha, Benny, Bjorn and Anni-
Frid (ABBA) from their first introductions, to their winning on
the 1974 Eurovision contest, to becoming one of the twentieth
centurys most influential bands with over 370 million albums
and singles sold worldwide, this unique show includes all the
bands ubiquitous hits (Fernando, Does Your Mother Know,
The Winner Takes It All, Take a Chance On Me, Dancing
Queen) in case you somehow hadnt heard them for a few
days. Q Event starts at 19:30. Tickets 160-250z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia
5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00) and Sowacki
Theatre box office (Open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00; Mon
10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00; Sun depending on repertoire).
photo: Wojciech Musial
26.09 Thursday - 21.10 Monday
Sfogato Festival
Event takes place in various locations, www.sfoga-
tofestival.com. The International Festival of Music and
Art returns to Krakow for the fourth time since pianist
Martha Polanska founded it in 2010. An inaugural concert
commemorates the bicentenary of two outstanding op-
era singers, Giuseppe Verdi and Richard Wagner. Also on
the programme: a chamber music concert performed by
the brilliant Australian pianist Ellen Rapoport and a string
quintet, an art exhibition by Magdalena Piekowska, and
the Music - Arts - Media conference under the guidance
of Prof. Helena Wrona-Polaska. The festival brings
together both local and international artists, including A.
Thomas Jarosz, Marta Polanska, Marek Polaski, Joanna
Kli, Izabela Seweryn, Sergei Sultanov, Elen Rapoport,
Roman Fedchuk, Oleg Fedchuk and Daniela Bryndova,
amongst others. Q Admission free. Full schedule avail-
able at www.sfogatofestival.com.
Sfogato Festival
CRACOW,
Juliusz Sowacki
Theatre
25
HOTELS
24
ALL SAINTS DAY
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate
accommodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN
and cable TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and
new: original brickwork and timber touches combined
with chic designer furnishings. Q16 rooms (16 apart-
ments). TA6GW
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel.
(+48) 12 422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These
high standard apartments right in the heart of the city
come furnished in a chic, modern style decorated with
relaxing scarlet and white colours. All have microwave ov-
ens, air-conditioning, hairdryers and high-speed internet
connection, and the new apartment at ul. Sawkowska 6
has an elevator if hiking up stairs is an issue. Q8 rooms
(8 apartments). PTA6GKW
Red Kurka C-4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535
91 91 35, www.redkurka.com. Consider us impressed;
these three apartments quietly tucked in the courtyard of
a conveniently-located old residence near the Planty are
probably the coolest places to crash in town. Designed by
local graphic artist Marcin Kubiak (well done, sir), the apart-
ments feature lots of bold colours and pop art without being
heavy-handed, while serving as an exhibition of 20th cen-
tury Polish product design. For its funky red radish theme,
our favourite has to be apartment B, able to accommodate
up to 6. All apartments include a washing machine, stove,
oven (a rarity), wifi, satellite TV and bathroom amenities, in
case you forgot your shampoo. Recommended. Q3 rooms
(3 apartments). TA6GW
Apartments
Greg & Tom Beer House C-2, ul. Floriaska 43, tel.
(+48) 12 421 28 64, www.gregtomhostel.com. Greg
and Tom have basically taken the lead on the local hostel
scene. Located on Krakws rowdiest street, Beer House
is similar in style to their ul. Zyblikiewicza Party Hostel with
spacious rooms that arent overcrowded with bunks, all the
now-standard amenities, and some slick modern decor.
Aside from the very nice community kitchen, however, all of
the common space has been moved into the adjacent pub
and beer garden, where events and dinners are organised
and non-guests are also welcome. Large, with modern lounge
lighting and furnishings, good pizza, satellite TV and more,
youll be hard pressed to find any reason to venture further.
Partner hostels at ul. Pawia 12/7 (D-2) and ul. Zyblikiewicza 9
(D-3). Q10 rooms (92 Dorm beds ). AGKW
Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is one of the citys best low-cost options,
and certainly the most colourful, with room names like
Clockwork Orange, Vanilla Sky and Mint Sorbet. Dorms are
equipped with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms
are neat and simple with wrought iron furnishings and co-
lourful bed spreads. The common room features low-slung
sofas and a DVD library, plus theres laundry services, free
internet access and a garden for barbecues if the season
is right. Secret Garden Hostel also has six fantastic apart-
ments close to the main hostel with three others nearby in
Kazimierz. Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 4 triples, 1
quad, 14 Dorm beds ). TA6UGW
Hostels
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into elite
status as a European destination, there is no lack of accom-
modation options in this fabled city. From fancy 5-star affairs
to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and breakfasts,
historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels - you wont
be hard-pressed for a place to stay. With limited space, we
obviously cant list every sleeper in the city in our print guide,
however you can find a comprehensive list of Krakws myriad
accommodation options on our website.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these
days due to online booking discounts, special offers and
other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instruc-
tive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point, anyone who
uses the Hotel Calculator function on our website - krakow.
inyourpocket.com - will find a better rate than the official
prices we once printed; as such, we encourage you to do just
that and you can thank us later.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities,
and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most
recommend to tourists.
Cream of the Crop
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. Youve chosen well. Few
hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by
Copernicus, and its a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries,
with former guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully
uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork,
marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from
the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel,
gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming pool
housed in the medieval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles, 17
doubles, 8 suites). PTJHA6FLGKDCW
hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424
08 00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has
long been established as the citys most luxurious and
has the legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private
suites with original murals, coffered ceilings, stained glass
windows, ornamental fireplaces and ceremonious service
create the imperial ambiance the hotel has built its repu-
tation on since its 19th century stint as the Czartoryski
Palace, while a business centre and fitness club add mod-
ern conveniences. Q64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles, 9
apartments). PTJHAR6UFLGKDW
hhhhh
Grdek D-3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30,
www.donimirski.com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to
you by the same team behind the Pugetw and Maltaski,
so the quality comes as no surprise. The interior, designed
by Swiss studio IKRL, is redolent of an aristocrats country
retreat, and the individually designed rooms come with
vases of flowers, bathrobes and a homely look that reeks
of romantic class. Adjacent to a Dominican convent, Grdek
offers an air of complete serenity and 5 star standards. Q23
rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles, 2 suites). PTHAR
6ULGKDW hhhhh
Readers expecting a wild Halloween full of costume parties
and debauchery may be surprised to learn that in Poland the
holiday is completely overshadowed by the rather sobering,
sombre proceedings of November 1st and 2nd every year.
Known nationally as All Saints Day (Dzie Wszystkich
witych) and All Souls Day (Dzie Zaduszny, or Dzie
Wszystkich Zmarych) respectively, these two days of the
calendar year are dedicated to prayer and paying tribute
to the deceased by visiting their graves. In accordance
with tradition, Catholic families all over Poland will make
pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending
the graves with a care that is truly touching, before laying
wreaths, flowers and candles that will be kept lit throughout
the length of the holiday. As night descends, the countrys
graveyards are aglow with the warm light of literally thou-
sands of flickering candles, creating an eerie, incredibly
evocative atmosphere that should not be missed by anyone
with a heart that still beats.
Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this
tradition actually has pagan roots. After All Saints Day was
established as a holy day of obligation in 835, Saint Odilon
had the bright idea in 998 of designating November 2nd as All
Souls Day to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of Dziady.
During Dziady (literally, Forefathers), the living would prepare
an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed,
believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife
and return to their families. Places were set at the table for
the ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing
them the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would
bring on bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find
an unloved grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.]
As it happens, Krakw is perhaps Polands most evocative,
necropolitan city in which to witness the events. While visi-
tors to the city may not have ancestors buried here, a trip
to one of Krakws cemeteries during this unforgettable cer-
emony is, indeed, requisite. While we could wax poetic about
the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight, the murmur
of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the incense, fresh
flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens in the trees,
the wet grass and mists, and the surreal duality of the super-
naturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere, wed prefer you
just experience it for yourself. Take a candle along with you.
As one of Polands most important public holidays, only
public transportation and emergency response employees
as obliged to work on November 1st (which falls on a Friday
in 2013), so dont be surprised to find your favourite shop,
restaurant or bar bolted shut. Krakws Catholic cemeteries,
in contrast, will be open until last guest, and weve listed
those in the centre below so that you too can join in this
inspiring tradition.
Cemeteries
Military Cemetery K-1, ul. Prandoty. Across from
Rakowicki is Krakws Military Cemetery, opened in 1920
to retire the remains of fallen Polish WWI soldiers and their
families. At the entrance youll find a forever-flowered and
candlelit monument to the Pope, remembering his visits
here to the graves of his parents. Close by is a monu-
ment to members of the Home Army (Armia Krajowa), as
well as several other military monuments remembering
the victims of Katyn and WWII, many of whom are also
buried within. There is even a British section of the cem-
etery with the remains of 552 WWII soldiers, pilots and
POWs collected from all over PL, as well as German and
Soviet plots. Worth visiting for a look at the monumental
sculpture art, which on All Saints become especially bright
candle clusters.
New Podgrze Cemetery (Cmentarz Podgr-
ski) K-5, ul. Wapienna 13. This a large, pi cturesque
memorial park is our favouri te cemetery to visi t over
the holi day thanks to i ts basin-shape whi ch creates an
amphi theatre of col oured candl eli ght. Located behi nd
Krakus Mound, i f visiting on All Souls Day (Nov. 2st) dont
be surprised to find locals cel ebrating modern paganism
on top of the mound around midnight, from which you can
also catch vi ews of every cemetery in Krakw gl owing in
the distance. Servi ced by i ts own stop call ed Cmentarz
Podgrski, you can get there by catching numbers 3, 9,
13, 23, 24 or 50.
Ol d Podgrze Cemeter y (Star y Cmentarz
Podgrski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and
ul. Powstancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes pri mary
necropolis for over a hundred years, the Ol d Podgrze
Cemeter y i s/was the resti ng pl ace of the formerl y
independent ci tys most distinguished ci tizens. Cl osed
upon reaching capaci ty in 1900, the Germans l evell ed
a thi rd of the cemetery duri ng WWI I whi l e bui l di ng a
rail way. Even more gri evous was the si tes reduction to
a fraction of i ts ori ginal size during the construction of
al. Powstacw Wielopolskich in the 1970s, when almost
al l the graves were destroyed or strewn haphazardl y
about. Today i t is Krakws small est, most negl ected
cemetery - especiall y on All Saints Day - when a visi t
here and to the Krzemionki Hills behind i t (featuring the
abandoned Fort Benedi ct) is j ust about the creepi est
way to cel ebrate the holi day.
Rakowicki Cemetery (Cmentarz Rakowicki)
J-1, ul. Rakowicka 26. The largest and most important
of Krakows cemeteries, Rakowicki is also its most moving
site during All Saints. Within the astounding candlelight
youll find many fine examples of sepulchral art, as well as
impressive memorials to Polands 20th century struggles.
Across the street is Krakws Military Cemetery, and together
they represent an important source of Polish patriotism. A
twenty minute walk from the market square, simply follow
the throng, or take tram number 2 to the end of the line and
throng it from there.
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1. On the hillside beneath Kociuszko
Mound, this cemetery lies in one of Krakws most beautiful
districts. A more intimate affair than Rakowicki, souls that
report here will enjoy spookier surroundings with grand views
of the city and valley below. Its also more of a pilgrimage:
take tram number 1 to its terminus at Salwator and enjoy
the picturesque 10 minute stroll uphill along the tree-lined
ul. w. Bronisway.
26
HOTELS
27
HOTELS
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D-4, ul. Wielopole
4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. Nothing
short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn. Large
rooms with an appealing blue colour palette, staff who fuss
over you, private parking and two separate restaurants make
this the reliable choice one would expect. For the best price
check out the special daily offers on their webpage. Q152
rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 4 suites). PTJA
R6UFGKW hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384
08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits
inside one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via a huge
hardwood door that automatically swings open, 007-style.
Occupying a former aristocratic residence many of the origi-
nal details have been retained alongside chic touches such as
a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation
comes with sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts
and bathrooms fitted with Italian marble. A subterranean pool
open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on top of
the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop cafe/bar
with views staring onto the main square. The class of Krakw,
its no surprise that the English national football squad head-
quartered here during Euro 2012. Q53 rooms (8 singles,
34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite).
PTJHA6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A relatively
new five-star hotel and spa on a quiet corner of the Wisa
riverbank, the Niebieski is designed to be environmentally
sustainable and energy efficient, with a harmonious holistic
interior arrangement and philosophy of well-being that extends
from the excellent Vanilla SPA throughout the entire hotel.
The spacious rooms feature wide, comfortable beds, unique
modern furnishings and soothing colours, while the Vanilla Sky
on-site restaurant serves light fusion cuisine with only certified
organic ingredients, and features great views of Wawel Castle.
There is also a 4-star hotel directly next door owned by the
same people if youd rather keep some of your cash to spend
in the spa. Q40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles, 2 apartments).
PTHAR6UFGKDwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48)
12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow.
Located next to the Filharmonia and the Planty, the Radis-
son possesses a prime location right in the heart of Krakow.
As you might expect from the famous brand, few amenities
are spared. Take advantage of free bike rentals, a huge
breakfast, high-speed internet, a small fitness centre and
spa, as well as the various guided tours that are sponsored
by and depart from the door of the hotel. This is one of the
citys most popular hotels, so book in advance. Q196 rooms
(148 singles, 148 doubles, 19 apartments, 29 Business
Class Rooms). PTJHAR6UFGKDwW
hhhhh
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.pl/krakow. The choice of
the stars. This is where the Dutch national football team
set up camp during Euro 2012, though usually its wealthy
tourists and corporate travellers who bustle through the
glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star venture near
Wawel Castle. Rooms come decorated with chequered scar-
let colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Several
fine restaurants and bars are also in the building, including
a seasonal rooftop terrace bar overlooking the river and
castle. Q232 rooms (228 singles, 228 doubles, 3 suites,
1 Presidential Wawel Apartment). PTHAR6UF
GKDCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the
age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-
the-art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here
and this is one place which guarantees the memorable stay
that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20
doubles, 2 apartments). PTYJHARUFL
GKDW hhhh
Amber Design B-2, ul. Garbarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 421
06 06, www.hotel-amber.pl. A four-star addendum to the
original Amber Hotel, this gorgeous new boutique sleeper
features beautiful art deco and art nouveau details inspired
by local artiste extraordinaire Stanisaw Wyspiaski in the
very rooms themselves. Located in a historic tenement build-
ing just five minutes from the market square, other authentic
features include the original tile stoves that heat the hotel
and the lovely mosaic work on the staircase. Guests also
have free access to the sauna and fitness room, pets are
welcome, and the hotel even offers a babysitting service
for parents that actually want, you know, a vacation. Q20
rooms (14 doubles, 6 suites). PTHAR6UFG
KDW hhhh
andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 01 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first
things youll see when you step off the train is this ultra-
modern hotel designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can
be no doubt about location. Full of odd curves, recessed
floor and wall lighting, and sleek furnishings, Andels hosts a
restaurant, bar, fitness studio, sauna and massage services.
Rooms are bright and bold and feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD
players (you can borrow films from reception), while the roof-
top terrace of the Andels apartment is simply unbeatable.
Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTYHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31,
www.hotel-francuski.com. After being recently purchased
by famous restaurateur and TV personality Adam Gessler,
the Francuski has undergone minor renovations to the interior
that have it looking better than ever. Here gold-braided door-
men and porters go about their business as the ground floor
Gessler restaurant stays packed around the clock. A grand
effort that oozes inter-war elegance in a surprisingly quiet loca-
tion right near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski squeezes
classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large
and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser
press. Best of all, breakfast comes included in the price of
your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles, 15 apartments).
TJHAR6FGKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,
www.galaxyhotel.pl. Officially opened in September 2011,
this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula
River offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically
designed for families and others for those with disabilities.
Oddly, the price of a standard room includes access to the
adjoining spas indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot
tub free of charge, but internet access (wifi or dataport) is
an additional 5 Euros a day. As youll note from the stylish
map in the centre of the lobby, their location is well-placed
for a walking-distance journey across the river to Schindlers
Factory and the neighbouring Museum of Contemporary
Art, and generally more ideal for exploring Podgrze and
Kazimierz than the Old Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles,
200 doubles, 50 triples, 5 suites). PTHARUFL
GKDCwW hhhh
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This new-
est luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to offer
than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel. The first
Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand is designed
to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms
come with large workspaces, ergonomic chairs designed
to relax your back and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the
most comfortable hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24-
hour business centre, fitness centre, conference facilities,
bar and 2 restaurants are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147
singles, 147 doubles, 7 apartments). PTHARUF
GKW hhhh
Hotel Kossak A-5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379
59 00, www.hotelkossak.pl. The team behind the highly-
lauded Senacki Hotel have added a star for their latest effort
near the Wisa riverbank, which opened in 2009. 60 elegant,
well-appointed rooms with flatscreen TVs, wifi and adjustable
air conditioning - more than two-thirds of which overlook
Wawel Castle - are at your disposal, as well as a large con-
ference centre with state of the art audio-visual equipment
and a classy 7th floor restaurant ideal for receptions and
daydreaming from the terrace. Q60 rooms (55 singles, 55
doubles, 5 apartments). PTHAR6UFLG
KDW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12
433 71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located
a short walk from the train station and ri ght on a corner
of the Royal Route i ts di f fi cul t to feel like youre stay-
ing anywhere other than the heart of the ci ty. Modern
conveni ence i n an el egant ol d bui l di ng, the dapper
rooms include everything youd expect from a modern
upmarket hotel and guests can enj oy the use of a fi tness
room and sauna, as well as conference facili ti es and a
stylish restaurant wi th strong reputation. Q35 rooms
(12 singl es, 23 doubl es, 1 apartment). PTHAR
FLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37,
www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored
tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spacious rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings offering a fine
balance between past and present: wifi and satellite TV in
each and the doubles even come with proper beds. The
restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer garden in
summer and a full set of business facilities to boot. Q48
rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments). THA
R6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. This beautiful,
modern hotel at the doorstep of the Old Town offers all
the comforts youd associate with a big brand name, plus
views of Wawel Castle and the river from the upper floors.
Fully handicap-accessible facilities, spacious rooms, air-
conditioning from top-to-bottom, a stylish restaurant and
fantastic hotel pool, hot tub and sauna all give you extra
reasons to make a booking here. Q198 rooms (192 singles,
192 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DCwW hhhh
Novotel Krakw City West F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej
11, tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Not the best location around, nor does it look like Prince
Charmings palace from the outsi de, however this bi g
functional box hotel has never lacked for comfort and
only improved following recent renovations. The rooms
are some of the largest in town and would seem even
more spacious i f the beds werent so big; with over 300
of them, this is still one of Krakws larger hotels, and
as such primed for large conferences and tour groups
casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market.
The restaurant has expanded and the lobby has been
turned i nto a l ounge wi th books and the dail y forei gn
press to peruse. Start the day with a few lengths in the
swimming pool, and finish it with late night cocktails in
their new bar. You can also rent a bike from reception.
Q305 rooms (304 singles, 304 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow A-7, ul. Monte
Cassino 2, Mwww.parkinn.com/hotel-krakow, tel.
(+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.com/hotel-kra-
kow. One of Europes fastest-growing hotel companies,
Rezidor has plonked a modern colossus across the Wisa
from Kazimierz, whi ch must be eyeing the interl opers
simple, modern curves and colour scheme slightly dubi-
ously. This mid-ranger in Dbniki features a fitness room
and wellness centre, impressive business facilities, a bar
and grill restaurant, lots of parking and an additional 152
kitted-out rooms in Park Inns signature colours: looks a
bit like a Twister mat, but conjures fond memories. Q152
rooms (152 singles, 152 doubles). PTHAR6U
FLGKDW hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriaska 14,
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.com.pl. A beautifully
restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground
of Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations
have done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come
with state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important
looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw,
the Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance door-
way reads May this building stand until an ant drinks
the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth. So far, so
good. Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTJHA6FGKDW hhhh
Polski Pod Biaym Orem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel.
(+48) 12 422 11 44, www.podorlem.com.pl. Fabulously
located between the Czartoryski Museum and Floriaska
Gate, this incredible hotel offers views of the only surviving
section of the citys medieval defensive walls. One of the
oldest hotels in town, the White Eagle has been operating
as an inn since 1815; after becoming state property under
communism it was returned to the Czartoryski family (yes,
they of the famous art collection and Da Vinci painting next
door) and is today again one of Krakws most exquisite, yet
overlooked accommodation options. Rather than blending
the modern with the antique, the White Eagle has stayed in
character going 19th century all the way; rooms are full of
original frescoes and architectural details while providing all
the expected amenities. Topping it off is a new conference
centre for 150 people. Q57 rooms (28 singles, 21 doubles,
5 triples, 3 suites). PTJHA6ULGW hhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J-4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design
includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from the
hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high
standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet
as well as an ironing board to help with keeping up appear-
ances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy business slant to this
hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from, while for after-
work moments take timeout in the fitness centre - complete
with top floor swimming pool with views stretching over central
Krakw. Q194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles, 10 suites,
1 apartment). PTHAR6UFKDCW hhhh
UNRI VALLED VALUE FOR MONEY
I N THE HEART OF CRACOW
The Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town means deep relaxation,
culluary dellghLs aud |eeplug hL 8 beauLy. lL ls a hoLel uear 0ld
JoWu Where you hud a perlecL coudlLlous lor your sLay.
have a comlorLable resL lu oue ol 220 Choplu cosy rooms
|u|oy a hlgh-uallLy ol servlce
JreaL yoursell WlLh hue lood lu Lhe Choplu kesLaurauL
kelax aher a loug day lu Lhe euchauLlug lobby bar
Ja|e advauLage ol loLs ol ou-slLe exLra servlces
Just in the Chopin Hotel Cracow Old Town:
hlgh sLaudard = reasouable prlces.
DESTINATION: Cracow city centre
BENEFITS: Your home away from home at a reasonable price
EXPLORE: www.chopinhotel.com
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto J-1, ul. Pawia 15, tel.
(+48) 12 355 29 00, www.accorhotels.com. A bi t
more plush than Ibis nearby budget hotel, this trusted
brand guarantees a modern, wi fi-enabled and - perhaps
most importantl y - soundproof room fi tted wi th a bed
thats likely more comfortable than whatever youve got
at home. Amenities outside the room include a 24-hour
bar for guests and a restaurant ready to serve you some-
thing to eat no matter what the hour. We dont know many
other hotels that cater to your needs around the clock
like that...well, except for Ibis other almost 1,000 other
hotels around the world. Seems to be a winning formula.
Q135 rooms (135 si ngl es, 135 doubl es, 16 tri pl es).
PTHA6UGKW hh
Karmel E- 6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. Smack bang i n the mi ddl e of
the action, this classi c Kazimi erz three-star gem may
not of fer the most spacious rooms in the ci ty but what
i t l acks i n square metres i t more than makes up for
wi th other thi ngs. Fri endl y and genui nel y helpful staf f
oversee everything ni cel y, pl onking chocolates on pil -
l ows and provi ding tea- and cof fee-making facili ti es in
all the rooms. Theres free wirel ess internet too, and a
decentish cold buffet breakfast served in the downstairs
restaurant. Q11 rooms (4 singl es, 6 doubl es, 1 sui te).
TA6GKW hhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12
426 26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with
a futuristic look and a location that stands in the shadow
of Wawel Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours
with internet access and BBC available to veg in front of
the television. Find modern bathrooms attached to each
room, and a sharply designed restaurant on the ground
floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 42 doubles, 1 apartment).
PTHA6UGKDW hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-year-
old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples,
2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421
35 00, www.hotelewam.pl. This utterly charming hotel
in an art nouveau turn-of-the-century building gives you
an experience you could only have in Krakw, and thats
a statement many pricier hotels cant make. Authentic in
every way - from the reception area with a canopied desk,
glass phone booth and wonderful secessionist staircase, to
the spacious rooms fitted with pre-war furnishings, carpets
and wallpapers - though the Royals facilities have been
modernised (wifi, satellite TV, air conditioning on one floor),
the style has stayed exactly as it was a hundred years ago.
The unbeatable location directly faces Wawel Castle from the
confines of Planty Park, and the ground floor bar/cafe and Pod
Wawelem restaurant are just more reasons to recommend
this romantic old world hotel. Its where we might stay in
Krakow if we didnt already live here. Q99 rooms (34 singles,
31 doubles, 12 triples, 9 quads, 10 suites, 3 apartments).
TJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically styl-
ish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel
for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast unique
Mid-range
Ascot Hotel E-3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front shields
a sharply designed hotel that includes reprints of classic
works by Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet
access inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come
with reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining
white bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given
in Poland. Q49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles, 7 triples, 2
quads). PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424
26 00, www.campanile.com. Following the Euro2012
madness, the rooms and interiors got a full freshening up.
Brightly decorated in the franchises flagship colours of cream
and green, amenities include satellite TV and bathtubs.
Within fast walking distance of the train station, ask for
a room on one of the top-floors for views overlooking the
surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105
doubles, 43 triples, 1 suite). PTJHA6UGW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12
299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern building in
a central location well-connected to transport points, Chopin
features stylishly-designed interiors, including clean, colour-
ful rooms, a western attitude to service, free wifi, fitness
centre with sauna, restaurant, bar, conference facilities and
more. Recent renovations, as well as regular promotions,
make this a very good choice for the money. Q220 rooms
(212 singles, 7 doubles, 1 apartment). PTHAR
6UFGKDW hhh
Classic D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03
03, www.hotel-classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect,
Classic combines clean lines and sleek furnishings with an
exterior that slots in neatly with the surrounding Old Town.
All rooms come with satellite TV, internet connection and
air-conditioning. Q31 rooms (26 singles, 26 doubles, 5
triples, 5 apartments). PTJAR6UGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. Sublimely located for exploring the Jewish his-
tory of Kazimierz, this carefully restored building was formerly
the home of Izaac Jakubowicz, founder of the Izaac Syna-
gogue. As such, Jewish guests are catered to with fragments
of the Torah on the doors, original paintings of old Kazimierz
life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house) in Poland.
Rooms come equipped with mini-fridge, wifi and satellite TV.
Conference facilities are also on hand, and theres even a
sauna and salt cave. Q27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5
triples, 2 suites). THA6UGDW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz D- 6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48)
12 421 66 29, www.hk.com.pl. Beauti ful stai ned
glass windows inside the restaurant fill this hotel with an
upscale ambience. Upstairs simple, modern rooms meet
three-star standards, generally have at least one sloping
wall, and come with spongy wallpaper you cant keep your
fingers off. Q38 rooms (38 singles, 28 doubles, 2 triples).
PTHAR6GW hhh
Hotel Kazimierz II E-5, ul. Starowilna 60, tel. (+48)
12 426 80 70, www.hk.com.pl. A well restored 19th
century faade hides rooms containing cream and scarlet
flourishes and, in some, grand extras such as period-style
wardrobes. A very good middle-of-the-road gig this, with
rooms armed with TV and internet access and a location
on the border of the hip Kazimierz district. Q23 rooms (23
singles, 21 doubles). THAR6GW hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
Rubinstein Residence E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48)
12 384 00 00, www.rubinstein.pl. Its no longer possible to
refer to Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimierz has
well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In keeping with
the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with elegant
carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique details. Some
feature restored timber ceilings, and all are treated to modern
finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and
digital TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so expect
a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles,
19 doubles, 5 suites). PTHARFGKDW hhhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 86, www.
hotelsenacki.pl. A beautiful historic building near Peter & Pauls
Church right on the royal route between the market square and
Wawel is the setting for this intimate, high-standard hotel. With
four stars on their epaulettes since 2012, and a steady nod from
the sometimes fickle folks at Michelin, rooms include lovely archi-
tectural details, fine fabrics and easy colour schemes. Some even
come with a balcony, but youll find fantastic views of the Old Town
from almost every room. Q20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles, 2
suites). PTHAR6UFLGKW hhhh
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 430 26 64,
www.wentzl.pl. A world-class hotel with the best views in the
city. The rooms come decked in rich fabrics, hand-woven rugs,
beautiful carpentry work and original artwork. The staff will do
anything (within the realms of decency) to ensure a smooth
stay, from booking opera tickets to reserving flights. And dont
for a minute think this is an antiquated type of hotel. While it
drips with class youll also find state-of-the-art accessories with
in-room home cinema, fancy coffee machines and Playstations
available. Those who want a more active vacation should take
them up on their free bike rentals for guests and take a ride along
the Wisa riverbanks. Q18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 8
triples). PiTJA6LGKW hhhh
33
RESTAURANTS
32
HOTELS
Budget
Ibis Budget Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej
11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.com.
Some distance from the city centre, but a solid bet, and like all
Ibis hotels it offers terrific value for your money. The tiny little
rooms pack a powerful punch and have comfy beds, flatscreen
televisions, enormous windows and impressive bathrooms (with
shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hell of a lot here,
including a buffet breakfast. Recommended. Q120 rooms (120
singles, 120 doubles, 16 triples). PTA6UGW h
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto J-1, ul. Pawia 11, tel.
(+48) 12 355 29 50, www.accorhotels.com. Amongst the
best budget hotels in Europe, with Ibis you get a reliable brand at
the right price, and this one is outstandingly located near Krakws
train station, only minutes from the market square - really, it
couldnt be easier. Earning plus marks for cost, convenience, and
comfort as well, the rooms arent overly spacious, but include
cosy beds with extra fluffy pillows and duvets, flatscreen TVs and
free wifi. Modernly styled with plenty of colour and personality,
while some budget options can be downright crude, Ibis Budget
is outright charming, ensuring a happy sleep. Q167 rooms (167
singles, 167 doubles). PTA6UGW h
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excell ent pension-
style accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter.
Rooms come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and
effective heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and
huge double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock.
Also find an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocio (The Black
Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles,
10 triples). TA6GKW
balconies while all rooms come furnished with an individual
touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12 triples, 4
quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range
offers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a
recent renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside
a historic townhouse, some of the 19th century secession-
ist touches have survived, including the glass roof of the
entrance and iron balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent
muralled courtyard will have you wishing it was summer all
year round, while the fabulous mosaicked wellness centre
will have you not caring to step outside at all. Q38 rooms
(9 singles, 28 doubles, 1 apartment). PTJHARG
KDwW hhh
Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14
75, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly good deal found three
minutes from the Old Town. Simple, spotless and recom-
mended, this hotel features a matey welcome in reception,
and large rooms decked out in soft browns. Q35 rooms (9
singles, 27 doubles, 9 triples). PTAR6ULGKW
hhh
Wyspiaski D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the blockish
faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski is well worth
every one of its three stars. Rooms have been thoroughly
modernised and feature rather natty patterned duvets,
private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming coaches
regularly parked outside testify to its popularity amongst tour
groups. Q231 rooms (150 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples).
OTYHAR6ULGKW hhh
With the development of the market in Krakow the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, and
while the citys culinary rep is improving all the time, its
restaurants are still waiting for starry-eyed acceptance
from a certain French tyre company. In our opinion,
however, there are more good restaurants to visit in this
town than you could possibly fit in one trip, so fear not,
you wont have to eat tyres.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the city,
the explosion of the market and its sheer redundancy
now makes it impossible for us to list everything. In this
section youll find reviews of what we feel are the most
note-worthy or high-profile establishments in town, in
order to help you find a place worthy of your time and
money, as well as avoid those with prime locations that
are not worth visiting. While our print guide carries a
wide selection, there are even more listed on our website
(krakow.inyourpocket.com) where we encourage you
to leave your own reviews of the places youve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec-
tive and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
SPLURGE: Wierzynek (Polish) remains the king of Krakw
- the citys oldest and most upscale restaurant, right on the
Rynek. For something a bit more modern, try Szara right
next to St. Marys Basilica, or Kazimierzs Studio Qulinarne
(International), which features a splendid garden. The sophis-
ticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (Inter-
national) is also bankable for your best meal while in town.
CHEAP: A traditional Polish milk bar (see our box) is
as cheap as youll eat anywhere with a menu in your
life. For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try
Polakowski or Smakoyki. If youre not a fan of Polish
food, Alebriche - Krakws Mexican eatery - is excellent,
or head to Momo (Vegetarian) for something healthy
and - youll never guess - green.
LADS: Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a
king for pauper prices in one of Krakws two breweries -
CK Browar and Stara Zajezdnia, or try Pod Wawelem
(Polish) where the bathroom features a vomitorium for
those who over-consume. For eating while ogling girls and
the game Chicks n Champs (American) is a no-brainer.
FAMILIES: Located near the market square, Mamy Cafe
(see Cafes) was made specifically to give parents travelling
with young children in tow a bit of a reprieve; head there
directly. Near Wawel, Pod Wawelem (Polish) has a sizable
rumpus room for kids and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES: Krakw itself is a marvellous backdrop for ro-
mance and you shouldnt have to search far for the perfect
place. Make a reservation in ZaKadka (French), Resto
Illuminati, Trufla (International) or Aqua e Vino (Italian).
SPECIAL DIET: For vegans and vegetarians the street
of choice is ul. Krupnicza (A-2), where in addition to
Karma and Pod Norenami, those on a gluten-free diet
will find clearly marked meals in Yellow Dog (Asian). For
traditional Polish food thats assuredly gluten-free, head
to Pod Baranem.
Dining at a Glance American
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs
link with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli
staple back to the city where its speculated that the doughy
ring may even have been invented all those years ago; and
ironically across from Polands oldest synagogue no less.
Inside this big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its
Yankee owner, as he scurries back and forth filling orders,
refilling coffees and chatting with customers. A variety of
fresh bagels come with the toppings of your choice, with
options including sun-dried tomato cream cheese, humus,
alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon and more. Burritos are back
on the menu, plus soup, wraps, falafel and the new bagel
burger. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (7-23z).
TA6VGSW
NEW
Chicks n Champs H-3, ul. Jzefa Kauy 1, tel. (+48)
797 70 55 11, www.chicksandchamps.pl. It was only a
matter of time before a new sports bar opened in this brilliant
space inside Stadion Cracovia, which is basically the best
place for watching sports in Krakw - be it televised on one
of their 21 flatscreens, or live on the football pitch just outside
the window. Full of typical American sports memorabilia, the
menu offers a wide range of American and Tex-Mex bar food,
including buffalo wings, burgers, steaks, nachos, fajitas and
more, plus fresh mussels, fish and chips and an odd take
on chilli con carne served in a hollowed out hamburger bun
topped with cheesy pasta. Fortunately the food isnt as
tasteless as the eensy-weensy shorts worn by the young
waitresses, which put Chicks firmly on the list of places you
shouldnt invite your mother-in-law to (or allow your daughter
to go for a job interview). Apparently only perverts watch
sports, and well be registering ourselves as one here as
soon as the baseball playoffs start. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-49z). PAGSW
Grande Grill C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Contrasting with the inflexible
traditionalism of Wierzynek, this fresher effort from the same
team behind Krakws most famous restaurant balances
modern styling and cuisine with its medieval setting. The
seasonal garden packed with plants hanging from timber
beams has long been regarded as one of the best in town,
and the addition of a stylish indoor dining area has made
this an excellent year-round venue. The menu is a simple
selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all expertly made-
to-order with the kind of service you would expect from the
citys most established restaurateurs. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(23-115z). TAGW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. The international
Hard Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the citys
most hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside
youll find an absurdly large number of staff members milling
around amongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton
Johns spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from
Polish legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked
over three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing
at a scarf John Lennon once wore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30.
(33-115z). PTAUGW
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-
else.pl. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a
one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of
34
RESTAURANTS
Uncle Sams favourite bar food including nachos and some
other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner
dcor suggests, this place doesnt take itself as seriously as
most hotel eateries, and its one of your best bets for catching
the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen the tie
and belt at the same time. QOpen 16:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 23:30. (39-96z). PTAUGW
NEW
Well Done D-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel. (+48) 792 43 09 69.
Krakws young crowd seems to source their style choices
from Brooklyn, so why not borrow the food culture as well?
With B.B.Q. & Whisky emblazoned above the door, this
corner bar and restaurant has many of the hallmarks of cult
American cuisine - ranch dressing, corndogs, nachos, buffalo
wings, cheese burgers, corn on the cob, large sodas and
more - but it seems a trip to the Deep South is still required to
really understand what American BBQ is all about. Well Done
is more of a steak and burger joint, and they do that as well
as anyone, with great homemade fries on the side. The menu
also includes pancakes with maple syrup all day long for
only 10z, and a dessert list of large chocolate-chip cookies,
brownies and carrot cake. The casual, retro-cool, pastel inte-
rior with touches of Warhol and Lichtenstein, plus the stellar
soundtrack of early rock, soul and doo-wop, also make this a
certifiably hip place to hang out and slurp the cheapest Jack
& Cokes (7z!) in Krakw. Maybe not the back-home barbecue
place we long for, but Well Done indeed, and easily summed
up in two words: Awesome, dude. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00,
Mon 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (5-60z). TA6GSW
Asian
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11
31 39. Across from arguably the best cafe in town, youll
find one of Krakws most exciting eating experiences.
Cherry-picking the best dishes of Thai, Vietnamese, Indian
and other Asian cuisines (tikka masala, laksa), Yellow Dogs
clever menu gives you a brief background to entice you
towards each delicious entree. The side dishes - which
include edamame, tom yum and satay chicken - will give
you reason enough to fast for days before dropping in, and
dont forget the green tea cheesecake for dessert. Many of
the dishes are gluten-free and all are outstanding. Making
it all the more stylish is a slick, modern-minimal interior with
large street-side windows and a bouncy hip-hop soundtrack.
Recommended and worthy of repeat visits. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (22-34z). TA6GSW
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48)
12 421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. The prevailing
Polish impression of things Czech - from the language to
the countrys pop culture - is that its all basically a wonky,
absurd or surreal version of its familiar Polish equivalent.
You can safely add Czech food to that list as well, which - as
visitors to this popular cellar restaurant will discover - is
not that much of a departure from Polish food, aside from
some subtle nuances. Take the two-person Czech sampler
for example, featuring exotic dishes like roast pork neck,
goulash, dumplings, fried cheese coated in breadcrumbs
and baked potatoes (who ever heard of such things?). Its
all a bargain and quite delicious of course, but whats the
best thing about a Czech restaurant? The beer, naturally,
and here you have a wide selection of the countrys finest
served in manly steins. As far as we know, the true Czech
way is to drink your dinner. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (14-30z).
TA6UGSW
Here we list the local alternatives to the fast food fran-
chises you might be familiar with from back home (if its
the Golden Arches youre looking for youre on your own).
For more fast dining options, get adventurous by visiting
a local milk bar or Polish Snacks & Shots bar (see our
separate sections on each).
Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48)
12 292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This beautiful
courtyard buffet has been sealed off from the elements
and now overflows with ambience year round. Full of pot-
ted plants, climbing ivy, natural sunlight and surrealistic
murals, Chimeras Salad Bar may be the most pleasant
budget dining environment in town; unfortunately it tends
to overshadow the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or
six portions, say prosz and point at your pick of the
salads, quiche, stuffed peppers and more. Its not the
best veggie fare in town, but its fast, easy, cheap and
a great place to relax. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (13-17z). TA6GSW
COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03. Little
more than a sidewalk stand one street removed from Plac
Nowy - Krakws fast food focal point - this small eatery
serves fantastic freshly made Sicilian food, including
arancino (breaded rice balls filled with ragout or spinach),
canollis, stuffed Sicilian pancakes or home-made pastas
topped with different sauces. With no set menu, whats
on offer changes day to day, but the endearing Italian
owner is happy to offer samples and inform your order.
Entirely authentic, handily located and open late. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. (7-15z). P6VGS
Streat Slow Food E-6, ul. Kupa 10, tel. (+48) 882
97 26 30. It may seem ironic, but we actually view the
arrival of Krakws first food truck as further evidence of
the citys positive culinary progress and evolution. What
is ironic is that the Streat Slow Food truck isnt actually
located on the street, and it doesnt travel anywhere,
except to and from its discreet gravel lot in Kazimierz,
just one street removed from Plac Nowy. This sedentary
set-up certainly has its advantages, with the groovy little
patio of pallets and barrels for tables and chairs creating
quite the hangout for all the hipsters eagerly awaiting
a tasty burger served up fast by the two friendly faces
behind the food hatch. Their specialty is a big burger
topped with feta cheese, beets, and onion chutney (18z),
but our go-to is the delicious cevapi for only 10z. QOpen
18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (10-20z). GS
U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421
50 84. If youre looking for a truly authentic local dining
experience, you simply cant do better than U Stasi.
This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard
(past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Pol-
ish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned
(80 years and counting) with table service and English
menus, eliminates it from contention as a true milk bar,
but those are about the only differences. Impossible for
groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, youll be doing it
in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors,
and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious
and the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before
14:00 to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu. Q
Open 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (9-18z). PGS
Quick Eats
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
French
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard ter-
race is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-58z). PTA6XW
ZaKadka - Food & Wine J-4, ul. Jzefiska 2, tel.
(+48) 12 442 74 42, www.zakladka.krakow.pl. Located
in a beautifully restored tenement just over the Bernadka
footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy and profession-
al French-inspired bistro strikes a perfect balance of modern
elegance, exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices
to make it outrageously popular. Stud chef Rafa Targoszs
menu includes octopus, oxtail, snails, mussels, chicken liver
mousse, lamb tripe meatballs, veal tongue and other exotic
delicacies (as well as savoury sandwiches and less daring
dishes) at absolutely pedestrian prices when compared to
the skill of preparation and style of presentation. A perfect
date destination, from the moment you step inside seemingly
everything about Zakadka - from the sharp black and white
interior to the delicious food and excellent wine list (the owner
even has his own vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make
a reservation now. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
23:00. (24-42z). PTAUGSW
Zazie Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08
29, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine French
dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Krakw
has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic
set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 39z, and all the French culinary hallmarks like es-
cargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order
by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the
ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk
terrace with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus
landmark, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped
roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. Overall
a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any
stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (28-36z). PTA6GSW
Hungarian
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 04,
www.delibar.pl. This small, poorly named, but long-running
Hungarian outfit in Kazimierz is the best the city has to offer,
serving up an extensive menu of greasy, spicy and filling
feast food from PLs ally to the south. The Deli Tal platter
for two is a great way to sample the house specialties and
also a great value, though this humble restaurant full of pop
music is hardly the best choice for a romantic dinner. Still,
the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale and after
consuming bland Polish food day after day, having a flavourful
Hungarian feed will remind you of the joy of eating. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00, Mon 13:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (10-30z). T6UGSW
Indian
Ganesh C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 18, tel. (+48) 12 432
50 86, www.ganesh.pl. Looking more like a fashion club
than an Indian kitchen, this slickly modernised, minimally
decorated cellar restaurant leans close to an upper crust
aesthetic we associate wi th the capi tal, but i ts nicel y
executed and stops well short of being showy. Though low-
slung lounge seating better suited for drinking than dining
occupies two of three rooms, lanterns cast a canopy of dim
constellations on the walls and theres an intimate curtained
booth for whichever lucky couple gets there first. The large
menu ranges from mutton and seafood entrees to sizzlers
served on a hot plate, and like most Indian establishments,
gets pricey once you add rice, bread and a bevvy. The lunch
offer (soup and an entree for 25z, served 12:00 - 16:00)
is limited and rather weak, and your enthusiasm for this
place will largely depend on the results of your order. We
left underwhelmed and wondering if were finally suffering
from Indian food fatigue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (24-52z).
PTAVGSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Induss interior
look sharper than ever, but its the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weathers warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-39z). PTAGS
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try
We invite you to enjoy our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012 4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
THE BEST INDIAN CUISINE IN TOWN
INDIAN RESTAURANT
Love Krove D-6, ul. Brzozowa 17, tel. (+48) 881 33
13 38. Full of strange graffiti, slick graphics and a collection
of wind-up robots, this hipster headquarters even includes
a downstairs art gallery. As for food, Love Krove takes the
burger concept and pushes it beyond your expectations;
in fact, well beyond the capacity of your open mouth and
maybe your stomach too. These burgers are so stacked
with tantalising toppings (including guacamole, gorgonzola,
rucola, chorizo and more) you can hardly fit them in your face,
and its good sport watching the locals try to knife and fork
them (sigh). Served on a fresh roll, most of the burgers on
the menu come overflowing with mustard, mayo, salsa or
sauce, meaning you may want to build your own to make
eating less of a mess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 23:00. (17-25z). TA6GSW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things from
New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear
from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior
that this is a NZ take on the classic American burger and
shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve certainly
super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate
just wouldnt do) and you might even consider splitting
one with a friend if you have any other meals planned
later in the day. Piled with the toppings of your choice,
in contrast to Love Krove, Moaburgers arent a mess to
eat. In fact theyre darn enjoyable, though youll discover
its not exactly the cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries
and a drink coming in over 30z. Still, this is Krakws
most popular burger joint. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (11-28z). PTA6GSW
Burgers
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
the classic urek soup - few places do it better - before
moving on to more notable nosh like the venison that will
have you wondering how such simple flavours can be so
rich. The superior quality of this establishment has been
grandfathered into Krakws restaurant scene, and offers
the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozarts flatwared
face. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 22:00. (29-69z).
PTYAUG
Andromeda K-3, ul. Gsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel.pl. This large,
modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly
space-themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy
Hotel its located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the
best bit of style youll find in Andromeda will be on your plate,
as the kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic
presentation. Try the chef specialty chicken a la martell
on chestnut puree while enjoying views of the Wisa and
Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00.
(55-65z). PTAUEGW
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near May
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the sum-
mer. While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the
Mediterranean, the 9-25z lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00
- 17:00) isnt above simple favourites like cheeseburgers,
and Sundays brunch (12:00-16:00) features American
pancakes with bacon, or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu re-
veals no lack of creative muscle with dishes like Rabbit
leg caramelised in honey, braised in red wine and plums
at affordable prices, and the wine list is longer than your
arm. Aperiti f is an all round delight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(26-59z). PTA6UXSW
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39
RESTAURANTS
touch. Choose from pork tenderloin in Fourme dAmbert or
truffle sauce, and a host of great seafood dishes delivered
fresh on Thursdays. Also on offer - and recommended - is
the sirloin steak with Camembert sauce or garlic butter.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 22:00. (25-
65z). TA6GW
Nova Resto Bar D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 502
29 14 41, www.novarestobar.pl. This vast and stylish
canteen has established itsel f as one of Kazimierzs cor-
nerstones, with wide appeal that seems to attract everyone
from cotton-candy haired grannies to first daters, families
and fashionistas. The extensive menu offers something
for them all including burgers, burritos, soups, shakes
and steaks, and the gorgeous servers also get points for
being good at their jobs. With three large salons, including
a large covered terrace and smoking section large enough
for non-puffers to hardly notice the ashtrays, its an ideal
destination for large groups. Totally trendy with bright, bold
colours and funky fabrics on retro furnishings, theres even
a moped and a huge screen when sports take precedence
over the silent films that run otherwise. A bit expensive
in our opinion, but there are just too many pluses for us
to put this place down. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (22-53z).
TYA6GSW
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska 14
(Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
the spacious glass atrium of the magnificent Pod R Hotel.
The open and elegant design features plenty of potted plants,
a piano perched on a raised platform and mezzanine seating
overlooking the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees,
to-die-for desserts, and the offerings of the extensive wine
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48) 12
430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ultra-stylish, with a
design that incorporates lots of shining leather, bare bricks
and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is the large sea-
sonal garden - an absolutely ace spot festooned with plant
life and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The main menu
features solid breakfast options, spaghetti, soups, chicken
and pork cooked up in a variety of ways, as well as a range
of low-cal meals for those whove had enough of popping out
of their buttons. This being Poland, you can expect the staff
to look rather nice as well. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. (14-49z). TA6UGSW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. Impressive from start
to finish, this legendary veteran cafe/restaurant exudes
style, class and professionalism. The secessionist inte-
rior of artistic woodwork and green velvet booths under
vaulted ceilings is elaborately enhanced with phonographs,
grandfather cl ocks and other trul y exquisi te anti ques,
while English fox hunting imagery lines the walls. Perfect
any time of day from their excellent English breakfast to
international and Polish mains like baked salmon steak in
saffron sauce followed by to-die-for desserts, you can be
assured of flawless service and an elegant atmosphere at
this historic market square escape. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.
(42-67z). PTAGSW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine & Wine) D-6, ul. Jzefa 13,
tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu. This
local favourite offers a quiet, intimate setting for a romantic
dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of Kazimierzs main
square from which you can try to pluck a date for one of the
best meals in the area, with the open fireplace the finishing
Barka Food, Life, Music E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki
(near the terminus of ul. Gazowa), tel. (+48) 668 82
04 54, www.alrina.pl. I f youre thinking of boarding one
of the several dining vessels along the Wisa River, make
i t Barka. This Dutch cargo barge dates back to 1889
and was once signi ficant enough to the history of water
transport to be featured on a Dutch postage stamp. Since
then it has been modernised by Polish craftsmen with
thrilling results. Descend into the spacious hold refitted
with wooden floors, a sculpted bar, fireplace and skylights
that let in plenty of natural light. The cocktail and wine lists
are duly impressive, and the menu of creative designer
food is thoroughly enjoyable. Utterly elegant and skill fully
stylish, climb aboard and become an instant socialite.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (24-
39z). PTAGSW
Coperni cus C- 5, ul . Kanoni cza 16 (Coperni cus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.
pl . I nsi de one of Krakws most excl usi ve hotel s
you l l f i nd one of i t s most excl usi ve rest aurant s,
wi th hi gh- cl ass ser vi ce i nsi de an el egant gothi c i n-
teri or that features ori gi nal frescoes. Coperni cus i s
enthusi asti cal l y awarded each year, and i ts gourmet
cui si ne has been enj oyed by Nobel Pri ze wi nner s
( Mi osz, Sz ymborska) and pol i ti cal di gni tari es ( Va-
cl av Havel , Hel mut Kohl ) al i ke. The menu changes
ever y mont h and i s kept si mpl e by Chef Mar ci n
Fi l i pki ewi cz who of fers a tasti ng menu of amazi ng
seasonal f l avour s; choose bet ween 5 (180z ), 7
(240z ) or 12 courses (350z ). At Coper ni cus you
get what you pay for, maki ng i t easy to recommend
for those on a royal budget. QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00.
( 79-129z ). PTAGSW
cellar, the menu of seasonally inspired entrees includes a
menagerie of perfectly prepared poultry and large game.
Prices are high for Krakw, but then so are the standards.
QOpen 18:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (69-89z).
PTJAUEGW
Restauracja Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20 (Unicus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.hotelunicus.pl.
This elegant, upscale restaurant offers an enticing range
of predominantly Polish dishes in the atmospheric cellars
below the Unicus Hotel. To whet your appetite, among the
treats populating the excellent value menu are the tried and
true pork loin on black pudding with potato pastry coated
in onion sauce, as well as wondrously rare (at least locally,
that is) dishes like radicchio with kohlrabi and croutons in
honey-caper sauce. Polish cuisine doesnt get more polished
than this, and the fine place settings and historic environs
only heighten the experience. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00. (46-
74z). PTAGW
Resto Bar Kipi D-1, ul. Kurniki 6, tel. (+48) 12 429
00 07. Perhaps not worth seeking out on a special trip, this
modern resto-bar might prove your saviour if youre trapped
in Galeria Krakowska or have just tipped out of the train
and need a meal immediately. Pairing bargain prices with
something other than just pierogi, cabbage and potatoes,
Kipi offers a nice, concise, but diverse menu of skillfully pre-
pared soups, salads, smoothies, crepes, pasta, an intriguing
burger (not what you expect) and enticing entrees like salmon
with arugula salad and rice. The daily special is an absolute
steal for only 12.90z and the slick interior is a relief. Across
from Galeria Krakowskas west exit, do yourself a favour: get
away from the food court and go here. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
(16-32z). PTA6GSW
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41
RESTAURANTS
Resto Illuminati C-3, ul. Gobia 2, tel. (+48) 12 430
73 73, www.restoilluminati.pl. Though the name comes off
as a tad trendy and eager to be elite, Illuminatis connotations
of smart, secretive and ancient recipes are an apt portrayal of
this attractive restaurant hedging modern Warsaw style into a
medieval Krakw setting. Most enjoyable and undervalued is the
ability to dine in ancient vaulted brick surroundings without being
buried underground in a windowless crypt. Check the wall-length
blackboard for daily specials before choosing from their tantalising
menu of modern, flavour-melding main courses. Also worth check-
ing out for breakfast and their daily lunch specials served 12:00
- 17:00. Reassuringly theres no need for blood rites to be a regular.
QOpen 07:30 - 22:00. (53-89z). PTA6EGSW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12
422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal successfully
skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one of
the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more shades
of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit
and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and a massive
chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On
the card youll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste,
with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00 menu
(featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside from the
cushions to the clientele looks edible. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (24-79z). PTAUXSW
Studio Qulinarne E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 430 69
14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Housed inside an old bus hangar
on the site of the City Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has
taken this airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned
it into one of Krakws most elegant dining destinations. Potted
plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly hang between fine
table settings with refreshingly mismatched 18th century chairs
as a pianist plays in the main dining area. The air of exclusivity is
diffused by a childrens corner, wall-length windows opening onto
the street in fair weather, and the summer garden full of greenery
and futons - one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in
town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to pricey
exotic game, and we can recommend not only the venison, but
the entire experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. (30-75z). TA6UEGSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,
www.szara.pl. Enviably located right on the corner of the mar-
ket square, Szaras reputation as one of the best restaurants
in town hasnt wavered over the years and if youre looking for
a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special last
night in town meal, this is a sure bet. Gorgeous, painted ceiling
arches, crisp linen and outstanding service create an atmo-
sphere of complete elegance, but Szara manages to avoid the
stuffiness of some other venues of this ilk. Choose from dishes
like Planksteak with Bearnaise sauce in what has come to be
known as one of the cornerstones of Krakws culinary scene.
The separate, more modern and casual bar just next door is a
smart breakfast destination (served 8:00-12:00) and cocktail
bar by night, plus in summer theres plenty of outdoor seating.
If youre in Kazimierz, try their second venue at ul. Szeroka 39
(E-6). QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (34-85z). PTAUGSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429
12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after its sister
establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved
Krakw legend status just as quickly. What makes it so spe-
cial is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly
staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for
so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up
on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful. All of Krakw should be like
this. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (24-67z). PTAGSW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.theolive.sheraton.pl. Top
class Mediterranean and Polish dishes served inside the im-
pressive environs of the Sheratons voluminous interior atrium.
The glass roof makes it possible to dine under the stars while
the foliage dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere.
The best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining at its
best. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sat 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 -
10:30. (30-94z). PTAUEGSW
Tradycyja C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16,
www.tradycyja.pl. The main tradycja (tradition) of this historic
market square locale seems to be re-branding itself every year,
but that hardly dents the success of this tourist magnet. Though
somewhat haunted by the spectres of past incarnations (a pizza
oven in the corner goes largely unused), theres no need to mess
with what is still a marvellous dining space oddly blending old
Polish aristocracy with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully
painted timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier
(which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the simple
menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have collected the
highlights of previous kitchens, ranging from chicken livers
stewed in wine with apples to oven-roasted duck with pears and
cranberry sauce. The results cover for the sometimes uneven
service, and the prices are well within reason. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00. (32-54z). TAUEGSW
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. The
Krakw dining scene continues to improve and this cosy place on
Pl. Szczepaski sets itself apart by offering great food at the right
price. A simple, predominantly white decor with wooden furniture
allows you to relax while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet
difficult to decipher handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian
dishes. The open kitchen lets you in on the creative cooking
process and the year-round garden - with its small Japanese-
style garden - is one of the most gorgeous youll find around. With
limited tables inside and out, plus Truflas loyal band of followers,
reservations might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (20-40z). A6GSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 384 08 06, www.likusrestauracje.pl. Hotel
Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the interiors
of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring, balancing the
modern with finely preserved details of this ancient building.
Serving fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist,
the menu changes like the seasons - or with them, rather,
meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the freshest
ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business hon-
chos who have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-95z). PTA6UGSW
Vanilla Sky H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. The
flagship restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla
Sky takes a healthy approach as one of the citys only res-
taurants to get all of their ingredients from certified organic
sources, and the chef has constructed a tantalising menu of
Italian and Polish influenced fusion dishes that will make you
want to happily commit to the eco-craze. Choose between
options like broccoli cream soup with mascarpone cheese
and smoked salmon or steak served with Paris baguette
and Provencal vegetables. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed tables
circle a gorgeous Yamaha Grand Touch piano on which live
concerts are given by a local maestro Thursday to Saturday
from 20:00-22:00 and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (39-69z). PTAUEGSW
A lot has changed over the
years si nce communi sm
got kneecapped and Po-
land joined the EU. Today
a desti nati on as popular
as Krakw hardl y seems
any more alien or adventur-
ous to tourists than well-
frequented Paris or Venice. And while many of the old
ways of the old days have disappeared or become
slightly disneyfied, one relic remains steadfastly un-
Western: the Polish milk bar (bar mleczny in Polish).
These steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to
an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students
provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and
have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a few
coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin, albeit
an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a visit to
the milk bar is a required cultural experience for anyone
who has just set foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of being
the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk bar
was actually opened on Krakws market square on May
30th, 1948. Originally no hot dishes were served; this
was a place where you went simply to enjoy milk (hence
the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass with a straw
(so classy). Run by the government, this was the Partys
clever attempt at popularising milk-drinking (as op-
posed to moonshine), inspired by Polands large surplus
of dairy products. As restaurants were nationalised by
PLs communist authorities, more and more milk bars
appeared in their place, with the Party concept being
to provide cheap, dairy-based meals to the masses (as
cheerlessly as possible, apparently); in fact meals at the
local milk bar were often included in a workers salary.
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many milk
bars chained the cutlery to the table to deter rampant
thievery; by this same reasoning youll notice that most
milk bars today use disposable dishes and the salt and
pepper are dispensed from plastic cups with a spoon.
Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue-haired, blue-
veined, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and the
food is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that
meat is no longer rationed in modern PL. Indeed, todays
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup served to schoolchildren in PL in the 1980s
was. With the collapse of communism most bar mleczny
went bankrupt, however, some of these feed museums
were saved and continue to be kept open through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall off
as closing time approaches, so go early, go often. Below
are our favourites in the city centre:
Bar Targowy J-3, ul. Daszyskiego 19, tel. (+48)
12 421 14 37. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 -
16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (6-16z). G
Pod Temid C- 4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12
422 08 74. The easiest to find: look for the blue and
white Bar Mleczny sign. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. (10-
16z). UGS
Milk Bars
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421
25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it
opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes deco-
rated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour com-
binations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan.
Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented
dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning
rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any must
visit list you may be keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri
12:00-16:30) to get an appetiser, main and drink for only
35z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45. (24-78z). PTAGSW
Boscaiola B-3, ul. Szewska 10, tel. (+48) 12 426 41
27. If you know this town well, Szewka Street is probably the
last place youd look for a nice meal out. Aside from its location
alongside fast food stands and filthy clubs, however, this classy
Italian eatery should hardly be a surprise. With pedigree and
another winning design job from the team behind the popular
Mamma Mia, Boscaiola offers the most stylish interior on
the block, full of lovely timber and white ceramic fittings (even
making clever use of chain-link fencing), with large windows
that bring a bit of sunshine and street theatre to the front
tables; downstairs is a beautiful cellar full of wine bottles and
wire-brushed brick and stone. The menu is a by-now familiar
array of pizzas and pastas, but theres no skimping on the
quality or quantity of ingredients - only on the total of the bill
at the end. Classy budget dining, right in the centre. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. (15-46z). PTAUGSW
Chianti C-3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 696 47 51
85, www.restauracjachianti.pl. Krakws is apparently
obsessed with Italian food, and this vast venue in the Cloth
Hall with a large summer patio in the shadow of the Town
Hall Tower is only further proof. With a set-up like that you
can hardly go wrong and Chianti hasnt, offering historic
surroundings, enviable views, outstanding service and a
concise, seasonally updated menu of upmarket eats. The
coffee drinks, as you might expect, are excellent, and the
ice cream sundaes are enormous. The renovated interiors
feature large individual entresols that create a privacy you
wont find most places, or expect from a high-profile restau-
rant inside a medieval marketplace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(20-50z). PTAGSW
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Gwny 17, tel. (+48) 12 422
32 79, www.dapietro.pl. Da Pietro laughs in the face of
every exclusive Italian restaurant to open in the Old Town in
the last few years. This veteran outfit (Krakws first Italian
restaurant) has ruled the Rynek for the last 20 years and
continues to outclass the competition with its climate, qual-
ity and even quantity. Portions are enormous, with signature
dishes like Ossobuco alla Milanese coming heaped with
veal and vegetables on saffron rice, accompanied by a tray
of bread and olive oil. As popular as the day it opened, a
network of large candlelit cellars decorated with black
and white pictures of Romes Colosseum await you inside
(open from 12:30), or enjoy the Rynek seating (open from
10:30) in warm weather. QOpen 12:30 - 24:00. (19-54z).
PTA6GSW
Il Calzone D- 4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48)
12 429 51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the
Pugetw Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to im-
part the cornerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and
calzones to gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending
themsel ves to new favouri tes like the rosemary lamb.
Combi ni ng sophisti cated servi ce wi th a casual atmo-
sphere, dine in an interior of colourful photos of Italy, stout
wooden tables and a timber ceiling, or enjoy the terrace
seati ng i n short-sl eeve weather. Rel iabl e and recom-
mended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
(15-46z). PTAUGSW
La Campana Trattoria C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
picturesque Kanonicza Street, La Campana Trattoria is a
completely di fferent restaurant in summertime when its
worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden
and cobbled patio; full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be
the best dining environment in Krakw. In winter, retreat to
the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the
same tried and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele
- two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the
pastas and risottos are as good as youd expect. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z). TAEGSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12
422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl. Dispatched from
a traditional wood-fired oven, this is some of the best pizza
in town. The choice of numerous home-made pastas and
other Italian standards, however, proves Mamma Mia is
more than just a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting
and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual
dining, and the army of regulars is testament to Mamma
Mias venerated reputation, even luring them in for breakfast
(served 07:45-12:00, Sat 08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00)
with fresh pancakes, paninis, pastries, omelettes and more.
QOpen 07:45 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
(14-43z). PTAUGS
Israeli
Hamsa E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45,
www.hamsa.pl. In a district whose dining establishments
still treat Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past (see
the place next door for example), heres a restaurant free
of nostalgic pre-war dcor and wooden roof fiddlers, where
Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional East European fare.
Making a bold impression simply by being bright, modern
and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a range of authentic Middle
Eastern specialties in a casual environment. The mezze
sets are perfect for sharing, and not only give you a chance
to sample delicious starters like the humus, babaganoush,
labnah and muhammarah (our recommended choice), but
are also beautifully presented in hand-painted dish ware. An
entrance from ul. Miodowa 41 now leads you to their beautiful
garden where you can enjoy a breakfast buffet from 08:30
- 11:00 (17.80z) or glass of Israeli wine. Fairly-priced and
generally a breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight. QOpen
08:30 - 02:00. (20-30z). TA6EGSW
Italian
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Upmarket Italian
food served in an elegant setting to a discerning audience -
all of whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering
and how it should be prepared. The pressure is on, but the
Amarone team comes through every time and the clients
keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread (baked daily), home-
made pasta and authentic ingredients straight from Italy in
an exclusive atmosphere made Mediterranean via plenty of
natural light and potted plants. Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer
a fantastic five-course tasting menu for only 50z. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (49-65z). PTJA6UEGW
ul. Szewska 10, Krakw
tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Classy budget dining,
right in the centre.
Cracow In Your Pocket, 2013
Pizza, pasta
e magia
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
wooden bar which can seat about 30 people on its three sides.
They do a commendable job and we actually find eating here
to be more of a joy than an exercise in pretension. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (30-100z). PTAVGSW
Jewish
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. Youll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing weve met more than a number of people extol-
ling the virtues of Ariels varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(19-78z). PTA6EXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Kazimi-
erz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.
dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this venue is
disguised to look like a row of early 20th century trade shops
and is decorated with awnings relating to the areas Jewish
heritage. Things are no less colourful on the inside with man-
nequins, sewing machines and carpenters work surfaces
adorning the interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old
Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those tracing the districts
past. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (21-49z). A6EGS
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century dcor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings, the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but its the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-59z).
TAUEGSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated
the strange marriage of their strikingly di fferent national
cuisines in the form of Diego & Bohumil - Krakws unique
Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split
of dishes from the two countries and is available in English,
making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean
highlights (like empanadas or paella) other than the steak
- still a reliably fantastic value at 45z. Located on a quiet
street midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz, enjoy
the range of Argentinean wines in the simple interior, where
images of gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the walls
alongside characters from Czech folklore. Great food and
great prices have made D&B a favourite. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00. Opening hours rumoured to change from November.
(16-65z). TIGSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 02,
www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento,
this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic
hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento
gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if youve had
one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head
here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a
good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection
of South American wines wash it down. A second location in
the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (42-110z). PTAGSW
Jarema Restaurant
Krakw, Plac Matejki 5
phone: +48 12 429 36 69
www.jarema.pl
The only Polish
restaurant in Krakw
recommended in the
Michelin Guide 2010.
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR
SUMMER GARDEN
Marcello C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30
08, www.restauracjamarcello.pl. Magda Gessler has
nested down on Krakws market square, adding her name
to the illustrious Wentzl restaurant and opening this Italian
eatery in the basement of the same historic locale. Tastefully
decorated by Gessler standards, Marcello features a classic
blue and white striped design motif and weathered wooden
tables that essentially make you feel like youre on a Tuscan
picnic, albeit in a medieval cellar. Somehow it works and the
old photos of Italian screen starlets that adorn the walls add
that sexy touch of class that we fondly remember Sophia
Loren for. Choose from all the hearty Italian staples, in addi-
tion to dishes like grilled steak fillet in balsamic vinegar or
rosemary sauce, and an expansive selection of Italian wines.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (18-56z). PTAVGSW
Milano Ristorante C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w. Jana
1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13 00,
www.milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the most magnif-
icent building on the market square, just a stones throw from
the Cloth Hall, Milano is a classy and smart dining option. A
small collection of intimate rooms decorated with all manner of
oddities, including a rocking horse, provide ample opportunity
to tuck into a fine range of Italian and international dishes. The
clientele is mixed albeit mostly well-heeled, whilst the almost
inaudible music comes as an extremely pleasant surprise in
whats becoming an increasingly noisy city. All in all a great
choice for pushing the culinary boat out when youre in town.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (33-119z). PTAUEGSW
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12
292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious
venture is certainly in the running for Krakws best pizza, and
most locals have already made up their minds that it is. Do
your dining in their knockout back garden during the warmer
months, or take to the dusky dining room complete with log fire
and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously experimen-
tal with choices including roast turkey, almonds and avocado,
and the chef also extends his repertoire to cover numerous
Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-29z). TAGS
Japanese
Koji C-4, ul. Poselska 18/1, tel. (+48) 12 422 52 66,
www.kojisushi.pl. The art of Japanese cuisine is on display in
Koji where the skilled chefs work quickly to create an extensive
range of soups, sashimi, sushi sets, hot mains and more. The
menu helps novices decode the different styles with helpful
photos, and goes beyond traditional expectations with fusion
sushi sets that include ingredients you wouldnt anticipate
like sun-dried tomatoes, olive tapenade and even guacamole.
Our inari was delicious and the Mint Carolina uramaki was
delightfully refreshing. For dessert theres green tea flavoured
ice cream and creme brulee, as well as tea, sake, Japanese
beer and whisky to wash it down. Watch the chefs at work from
the bar inside the small modern interior or relax in the seasonal
back garden. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (35-100z). AGSW
Musso Sushi A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48) 500
11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year progression of
an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to go something like
this: Year one the city receives the moniker The New Prague,
year two a jillion hostels open, year three a jillion clubs open,
and year four - where Krakw currently finds itself - its all sushi
restaurants. Musso sushi seems to benefit from those who
came before by not having to try so hard. The menu is more
simple and straight-forward and here the chefs (shaved-head
Polish men that they are) are actually brave enough to prepare
your food right in front of you on the other side of the long dark
46
RESTAURANTS
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriaska 34, tel. (+48) 500
10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Further proof of Polands na-
ivete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finally arrives
in Krakw after tying its mule to posts in five other Polish
cities prior (thats the sound of us smacking our foreheads).
Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas with exposed bel-
lies slinging tequila shots from the bottle holstered to their
belts, light fixtures fashioned from Desperados bottles,
and Wanted posters featuri ng sombreroed patrons
tacked everywhere. As for food and drink, all dishes come
with pickled cabbage and the margaritas are rimmed with
sugar, so forget authenticity. Still, this colourful, over-priced
cantina could be great fun for a group piss-up, and though
the placebo doesnt work on us, all the snogging couples
would suggest its a proven date destination. Ay carumba.
QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (15-50z).
TA6EXSW
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12 431
21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for a night of
fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak. Instead this is
a local place for local people who cram around the wooden
tables to eat huge portions of well-loved standards, from
cheap pierogi to excellent bigos to great big golonka. Order
from the board or ask for an English menu. Set meals of soup,
a side, potatoes and a main go for 16z, meaning you can
eat like a Polish king for peanuts. Open late and we love it.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (10-16z). T6UGS
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 51 57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. One of the most well-
known and long-running Polish food franchises, Chopskie
Jado is a reliable romp through the glories of Polish peas-
ant cooking, and a popular choice for tourist groups. Once
known for their blue country cottage interiors, a recent
re-branding has preserved the atmosphere of 19th century
village li fe created by the collection of rustic furnishings,
farming machinery, folk music and motifs - not to mention
staff members kitted out as saucy country wenches - while
modernising it to look less like an old-fashioned museum.
The fresh red and beige colour palette brings a brightness
and levity that was previously lacking, and somehow makes
the lengthy menu of stodgy peasant dishes more palatable,
despite portions being as gut-busting as ever. Also at ul. w.
Agnieszki 1 (C-6, open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (12-65z).
PTA6UGS
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429
25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. For over fi fteen years
and counting this huge and rowdy Old Town cellar has been
Krakws primary microbrewery, pouring fresh, unfiltered
and unpasteurized Light, Ginger, Dunkel and Weizen ales
straight from the tank into your mug. As i f that werent
enough to have you plotting your route, theres also a
restaurant and disco in this underground complex, making
it that much harder to find the daylight again once youve
descended those stairs. Lads will love the beer hall atmo-
sphere and sports on the tube, plus the added attraction
of getting the home-brew served in a tall glass pipe with
its own private tap on your table. To really go whole hog,
reserve the classic Hunters Room - a beauti ful banquet
space with fine wood panelling and plenty of antlers - and
feast in style on traditional Polish and Austrian dishes done
right. Best of all, the prices dont seem to have changed
since the day they opened, making the food a great bargain.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (18-50z).
PTA6GSW
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Mediterranean
Portofino E-6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 37,
www.portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price served on
a quiet, atmospheric side street across from Kazimierzs
High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up the menu you
can expect good pasta and some wonderful tossed salads,
however the highlight of our last visit was the paella: certainly
the best in Krakw, if it even has any competition. Sit on the
terrace if you can; inside things get a bit more formal. Drop by
between 12:00 and 17:00 for a special lunch menu featuring
most of the menus entrees plus a soup starter for only 20z.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (16-59z). TA6UGSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E- 6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51, www.restauracjawarsztat.pl. This
little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents everything we
love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual atmosphere
of effortless originality created by candlelight and a clutter
of battered musical instruments. The food - risottos, pasta,
salads, pizza and more - is generous in portioning and rich
in flavour without any notion that your wallet will be, making
Warsztat an excellent detour from the days agenda. Recom-
mended. Also now a larger location in the neighbourhood at
ul. Boego Ciaa 1, and theyve opened a Polish restaurant
- Warsztat po polsku - at ul. Miodowa 20 (D-6). QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (18-43z). A6GSW
Mexican
Alebriche A-1, ul. Karmelicka 56, tel. (+48) 510 55 02
11, www.restauracjalebriche.com. In a town that should
be admonished for its awful Mexican food, Alebriche happily
has almost nothing in common with its competition, and heres
the simple difference: its actually owned and operated by a
local Mexican family (gasp!). Developing a cult following since
its opening, Alebriche sends local expats into ecstasy with
its simple, authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu (in
Polish, English and Spanish) includes everything from huevos
rancheros to flan, with nacho sets, spicy soups, tamales,
proper chicken mole and more in between. In addition to
margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in town
where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright,
colourful interior full of photos and folk art confirms that the
focus is on food - so good youll be coming back until youve
tried everything on the menu. Recommended. QOpen 10:00
- 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (13-50z). A6UGSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. Manzanas New Latin concept
cuisine consists of meat and fish dishes alongside reinvented
Mexican classics (the massive burritos can be prepared a
number of ways) served in a chic cantina interior of dark,
glossy colours, an open kitchen and low-level Latin music.
Though the prices aim a bit high, the service and atmosphere
are comfortably relaxed, making Manzana the kind of place
youd want to frequent often. The daily specials encourage
you to do just that and the weekend brunch (served all day)
is legendary. Also home to the largest selection of tequilas
in town. You know, were quite fond of this place... Q Open
07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:30
- 23:00. (20-90z). PTA6GSW
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36
69, www.jarema.pl. Thi s cl assy veteran restaurant
presents ol d school Eastern Polish cuisine in a sli ghtl y
ostentati ous, 19th-century setti ng. Busty wai tresses
in tradi tional costume bustl e about serving large plat-
ters of steak wi th quail eggs, pheasant and wil d boar
(to name a few), as li ve folk musi c is per formed each
evening. Despite the now-familiar hearkening back to the
ol d days, this is not your classi c tourist trap. In fact, we
heartil y recommend i t. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55z).
PTA6UVEGSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku B-3, ul. Gobia 4, tel.
(+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl. Three
spacious rooms decorated with an equine motif - paintings
of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and hunt-
ing trophies - include a large fireplace and lush seasonal
garden. The menu changes seasonally, but represents a
strong review of upmarket Polish game dishes with some
vegetarian dishes included as well. For kids theres not only
a special menu, but an entire fun corner with a toy chest
and rocking horse. Kawalerias excellent food, service and
value have been recognised by many, including some tyre
company called Michelin. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (23-58z).
PTAUGSW
Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426
49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Kogel Mogel as it was,
it seems, was too refined for its own good. Ditching the
concept of grand banquet hall for the communist elite,
Kogel Mogel now envelopes you in its elegance without
any comrade kitsch. The menu has gone full Galician and
offers out-of-towners the chance to take home a much bet-
ter impression of the local cuisine than you might acquire
elsewhere. The duck and goose dishes are particularly
excellent, the fried trout is outstanding and the large sum-
mer garden and experienced staff also make this a good
place for groups and dinner events. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(17-48z). PTAEGSW
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. Whil e Krakws
super-saturated restaurant market has seen pl enty of
tankings of late, the team behind the ever-popular and
dul y praised Mi d Malina continues to expand. Sister
eater y Marmol ada of fers del i ci ous l ocal Maopol ska
deli caci es, per fectl y prepared and fired for a few min-
utes in a large stone oven before arri ving at your tabl e.
Narrow, yet l ong and cavernous, Marmol ada uti l i ses
fl oral folk patterns, canopi ed ceilings, bi g timber tabl es
and poinsettas to create their uni que combination of a
comfortabl e l ocal atmosphere and l ow pri ces wi th great
food and service. Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down
from the ci tys most exclusi ve restaurant (Wi erzynek),
and you can l eave wi th a bi l l that l ess than hal f the
size. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z).
PTAUGSW
Mid i Wino (Honey & Wine) C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32,
tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Champion
dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled as high as
the food with muskets, antlers and suits of armour. All extras
(vegetables, bread) cost extra, and youll need to explain
clearly how you expect your meat to be cooked; but the flair
of the service, quality of the food and fondness of the folk
musicians playing full force nearby create a fun atmosphere
thats completely worth being in. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. (20-
80z). PTAUEGSW
Mid Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka 40,
tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consis-
tently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina establish them-
selves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book ahead if
you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised
window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes
with raspberries painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow
that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty
here, lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while
the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The
prices remain pegged generously low making a visit here not
just recommended (as the Michelin Guide 2012 did) but essen-
tial. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60z). PTAUGSW
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 431
24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko aims to
capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so theres plenty of
primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits bursting out
of tradtional costume and regular live bands making a racket.
The food is caveman in style, delicious hunks of grilled animals.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50z). PTAEGSW
Pieroki Mr. Vincent D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 12, tel.
(+48) 506 80 63 04. A great place to introduce yourself
to this national staple, Vincents versions rises above the
ordinary. Though it may be impossible to reinvent a food
as versatile as the pierogi, this veteran establishment has
tried with apple and liver, minced lamb, chicken and spinach,
and broccoli and feta among the 30 different options. Get
a mixed-batch to share with a friend, and top it off with your
choice of a variety of sauces and extras. Popular, cheap
and cheerful (thanks to a sunflowered, starry-nighted Van
Gogh interior), takeaway may be your best option at peak
feed times. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. (12-45z). AUGS
Czerwone Korale C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu. This
traditional Polish restaurant may have the disadvantage of
being discreet from the street, but the interior is one of the
most vibrant and welcoming in the Old Town. Unlike others of
its ilk, here the simple, but charming folk decor favours colour
over clutter: cheerful chandeliers wrapped in wicker wreaths
wound with bright ribbons and beads hang from arched red
ceilings, giving the two dining rooms a warm glow, while pho-
tos of dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking in
folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes from
the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards, but with
some creative innovations and a flair for presentation that we
were hardly expecting. Theres an entire page of vegetarian
dishes (!) and the overall quality of the food makes Czerwone
Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but also a great value
(particularly during their lunch deals Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).
QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 24:00. (15-45z).
PTAGSW
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06
31, www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved on, but Haweka
hasnt. If you want to experience the Krakw of olde, this en-
during, achingly formal holdover is the place to do it, just like
Queen Elisabeth II, the King of Greece and numerous Austro-
Hungarian Archdukes before them did at one time. The menu
is an encyclopaedic choice of traditional Polish game and
fish dishes served without interruption or reinvention since
1876, and the dining room is a very green (popular colour in
those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th century with a
reproduction of Jan Matejkos massive Prussian Homage
looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inauthentic
thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:45. (30-80z). PTA6XSW
50
RESTAURANTS
51
RESTAURANTS
Cracovian Cuisine, P-Z
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber-
ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere in
the city; head to Pierogi Mr. Vincent or Zapiecek for a
more expansive selection.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniac-
zane) are very similar to Jewish latkes (i f that means
anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served
with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki
are a great hangover cure and youll find them on menus
everywhere. U Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku
is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and
highly-caloric meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: barszcz, urek and
flaki. A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a croquette or
miniature pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug
expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other
beverages with any winter meal, wed be surprised if you
can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Krakw. It doesnt
get any more Polish than urek a unique sour rye soup
with sausage, potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in.
Our vote goes to Bar Smak but you also cant beat We-
seles batch eaten out of a breadbowl. If youre of strong
constitution and feeling truly adventurous, spring for flaki
beef tripe soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices.
A hearty standby in most kitchens, we personally save the
pleasure for compromising situations involving mother-in-
laws, but you can take your chances at Chopskie Jado.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generally draw the line here. An animal
fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the better, we
say) and served with hunks of homemade bread, Smalec
is a savoury snack that goes great with a mug of beer. Any
traditional Polish restaurant worth its salt should give you
lashings of this prior to your meal; weve had the best at
Pod Baranem, or buy your own at Krakowskie Kredens.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train station
in PL and youll get half a stale baguette covered with mush-
rooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster oven and squirted
with ketchup. Underwhelming to say the least. However the
vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy (D-6) have made a true
art out of the Polish pizza. With endless add-ons (including
salami, spinach, smoked cheese, pickles, pineapple, feta
you name it), garlic sauce and chives have become standard
procedure at this point. Because of their popularity youll
witness ridiculous lines at the various windows around the
roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At 8-10z its a great value
and will sustain you through a night of heavy drinking. To leave
town without having tried a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be
felonious, as would settling for one anywhere else in Krakw.
Cracovian Cuisine, A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uni formly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or milk bar in town, weve given you our
picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper
and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre-
dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic
and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos
translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in Polish.
Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and
the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Pol-
ish restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured
on the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists
of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army
gobki before a battle outside Malbork against the Teu-
tonic Order, and their unlikely subsequent victory has been
attributed to the hearty meal ever since. Bolster your own
courage at Pod Baranem or Kogel Mogel.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as youre driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Krakw that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: Kawaleria where its served with
pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem where the servings slip
right off the bone and are so impossibly large wed prefer
not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties
made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. There are a few varieties
to watch for including Krakowska, a Krakw specialty
seasoned with pepper and garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry
sausage flavoured with caraway seed; and Kaszanka, a
blood sausage filled with groats and pigs blood. These
youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop, but head
to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski (see Late Ni ght
Eats) to get a taste of Krakws most famous sausage.
Two old-timers have been grilling and serving sausage
out of a van since time immemorial at this hallowed
sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
walls contrast with the olde-world over-the-top service of
white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything at your
table, even preparing some of it in front of you (like the labori-
ous mincing of the steak tartare), all while a pianist tickles
ivories in the corner. The set three-course Espresso Lunch
(served Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) is a fantastic opportunity to
experience high society inter-war elegance for a shocking
20z. As such, this place is packed and we are totally on
board. Q Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 24:00. (32-72z).
PTAUEGSW
Smakoyki B-3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12
430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. One of our favourites for
a while now, and its no fair keeping secrets, so weve finally
got our whistle out. Budget food isnt hard to come by in this
town, but when it does, its typically service and ambience
that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here though. This hip,
trendy bistro has it all, from great coffee and tasty Polish
microbrews to simple, delicious Polish cuisine, all served
inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro interior that
even features a mezzanine, piano and nifty wall art made
from pinned string. You wont find a better value on food in this
town, especially the daily specials inspired by world cuisine.
If you know how hard it can be to find a seat with a wall plug
and wifi that actually works in Krakw, youll also find that
Smakoyki is a great place to work. Heartily recommended
on all fronts. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. (8-
17z). TA6EGSW
Stara Zajezdnia (The Old Depot) E- 6, ul. w.
Wawrzyca 12, tel. (+48) 664 32 39 88, www.staraza-
jezdniakrakow.pl. After being abandoned for decades, this
old tram depot (across from the Transportation Museum)
has assumed a second life as Krakws biggest brewery
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12
421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The place to visit if youre
looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge portions
of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts of veg, cascade
off the steel pans and wooden boards theyre served on, while
uniformed staff weave between the bench seating serving froth-
ing steins of lager. Great for groups and families, kids have their
own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall
atmosphere shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers
are encouraged and half-price on Mondays, and theres a handy
vomitorium in the mens room - i.e, two enormous steel basins
for those suffering from over-consumption to hock their recently
imbibed pork hocks. Q Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:30.
(20-40z). TAUEGSW
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421
07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local
dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of
piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before
bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from
the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet
salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far
better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave.
Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the
extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and
English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich witych 10
(C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (9-20z). PTAGS
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul. Pijar-
ska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.hotel-francuski.
com. Taking the helm of the Francuski Hotel, Polish star
restaurateur Adam Gessler has created one of the most
impressive and popular places in town. Dingy, unfinished
Heaven! Fantastic food,
excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 396 49 46
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Pod Anioami (Under the Angels) C-4, ul. Grodzka
35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. One
of the citys most classic and undeniably charming cellar
restaurants, Pod Anioami offers a quintessentially Cracovian
encounter with medieval Polish cuisine. As you enter you
find yoursel f immersed in a cavernous, candle-lit, almost
monastic haven that is incredibly cosy, warm and engaging
considering that in some of its historic 13th century dining
areas you are a full two levels below the citys path of Kings.
Two beech wood-fired grills allow you to watch the creation of
your meal from beginning to end. A beautiful courtyard garden
stays open year round, and the extensive menu includes
massive meals for up to 35 people, and nearly everything
imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was enjoyed by the
Polish nobility in days of old. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (29-69z).
PTA6GSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable estab-
lishment near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and
wooden ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Krakw
in one of the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and
guests on the walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy
dining environment. Serving Polish standards including cream
of wild mushroom soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features
more meat than youll find at a livestock market, with deer
and wild boar getting into the menagerie as well. Our shred-
ded pork wrapped in cabbage leaves with mushroom sauce
left us more than satisfied, but the true standout was the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread - maybe the best
weve tasted in Krakw. For those stricken with food allergies,
this is one of the only places in town to offer gluten-free
meals, to which their menu dedicates a page. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (23-100z). PTAUXS
and beer hall. A large complex of cavernous brick and tim-
ber buildings, Stara Zajezdnia sadly suffers for its size with
the impressive main hall - which features the citys longest
bar - deemed too impractical to open when there isnt a
special event or group reservation of less than 100 people.
The smaller out-building that presently serves as the main
dining hall can still feel pretty lonely without a large party on
hand, but if you happen to be in one, do bring it here. Flat
screens are on hand for football and the Spi porter, wheat,
lager and honey ales do well to wash down the ribs and other
tasty traditional fare tailored to complement the on-site
brewed beer. Once that pops your buttons, dont overlook
the separate menu of single cask, single malt whiskies - a
first for Krakw - if you want to beat your friends in the race
to be first under the table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (19-39z).
PTAUGSW
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48)
12 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Entering
this hidden cellar through the courtyard of a building on the
corner of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets, youll descend
the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzled babcia who decides
i f you can enter this kitschy country cottage of wooden
benches slung with sheep hides. Youll be grateful to have
garnered her approval once youve tried the soups served
in breadbowls and pierogi served on breadplates (really), to
make no mention of the city-famous placki po wgiersku - an
enormous plate of potato pancakes smothered in goulash,
cheese and sour cream. With budget prices for outland-
ishly large and delicious servings, this should be a go-to for
anyone being introduced to Polish food...or who hasnt eaten
in three days. Also with a location at ul. Szpitalna 38 (D-2).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25z).
PTAVGS
54
RESTAURANTS
55
RESTAURANTS
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48)
12 421 92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran
restaurant has survived the test of time and continues to
serve up consistently decent, stodgy food - stew served in
a bread bowl, steaks, pork, pierogi, potatoes and borscht -
at suitably Ukrainian bargain prices. Small children running
amok all over the gorgeous courtyard garden further adds
to the authenticity, but may have you heading to their folksy
cellar where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep the bottles
of underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your table.
Try all fifteen varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl
victim. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-80z). TAGSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul. Jzefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Ka-
zimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 13:00 and 15:00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
(16-23z). PTA6EGSW
Karma A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel. (+48) 506 06 06 84.
One of Krakws most forward-thinking locales, in addition
to excellent, free-trade coffee and tea, this modern cafe of-
fers a range of treats for those who have embraced vegan
or gluten-free lifestyles. All of the outstanding baked goods,
including tarts, cakes and cookies, are made on site, and
daily specials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-frys
and curries at great prices. Theres even a breakfast menu,
giving you every reason to go early and often. For vegans,
vegetarians, and anyone who enjoys great coffee, Karma is
a must-visit. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
(20-25z). TA6GSW
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A
cheap and cheerful vegetarian/vegan restaurant churning
out plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good
choice of salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even
kimchee. Popular wi th left-leaning school teachers, the
wacky backpacker set and people that refuse to stop smil-
ing, Momos prices remain ludicrously cheap and the food
is both healthy and worth coming back for. Try the excellent
spicy sambar soup and dont forget to smother your food
with their coveted peanut sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
(12-20z). T6UGS
Pod Norenami B-2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661
219 289, www.podnorenami.pl. Practised in the art
of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the metamorphic powers
of the soybean like no other place weve seen in PL, Pod
Norenamis long menu (too long if were honest) features
tofu, mock chicken and mock beef prepared in an astound-
ing variety of traditional dishes from the kitchens of Japan,
Thailand, Vietnam and China. While some Far East standbys
(curries, tempura, sushi, pad Thai) arent new to Krakw, a
true vegetarian restaurant that emphasises mock meat
certainly is, and the results have got people packing this
place out and returning often. A fun place to fool or educate
the Polish palate, the interior is modest and casual (much like
the prices) as opposed to modern and kitsch (much unlike
other Asian eateries). Do Krakws vegetarians have it hard?
Hardly. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (14-30z). PTAGSW
venues Chianti and Tresor spread their outdoor seating
across most of the market square between the Cloth Hall
and the Town Hall Tower, thus adding about 150 more
prime sitting places to the Rynek in the high season. Its
all fine and lovely i f you dont mind Krakws Joe Satriani
impersonator shredding guitar licks non-stop nearby; i f its
your nerves hes shredding check out the ni fty mezzanines
of the renovated interiors. The Polish incarnation of this
Cloth Hall complex may be the strongest, and is a perfect
place to sample local vodkas, meads and other alcoholic
tinctures, including a full card of strictly Polish wines (rare
elsewhere). The menu is merci fully short meaning the chefs
have it down to a science, the food comes out fast, and
the service is well above the uncaring standards of other
market square tourist haunts. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (29-
59z). TAGSW
Wierzynek C- 3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Qui te a launch party
this place: according to l egend the opening ni ght back
in 1364 was attended by fi ve kings and nine princes.
Since then i ts been one esteemed guest after another,
wi th former di ners i ncl udi ng De Gaul l e, Bush, Castro
and other bods who influence the way the gl obe spins,
as well as starl ets like Sophi e Marceau and Kate Moss.
The immaculate interiors of ori ginal period furnishings,
tapestri es, oil paintings and incredi bl e timber ceilings
aren t too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel Castl e, and
you can expect a royal treatment from the staff. The seri-
ousl y hi gh-end menu is based on the tradi tional feasting
habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasnt failed to adopt
modern influences as well, meaning youll eat like a king
and remember the experi ence - one you coul d onl y have
in Krakw - for qui te a l ong time. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00.
(38-135z). PTAEXSW
Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel.
(+48) 12 429 52 99, www.restauracjawentzl.pl. In
the upstairs of a 15th century building on Krakws market
square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl restaurant itself can
trace its history back to the 18th century, and added a
new chapter when PLs culinary first lady, Magda Gessler,
re-branded the restaurant in March 2012. Swapping dusty
oil paintings for fresh flowers, flowing curtains and pastel
colours, the new Gesslered interior is bright, full of energy
and looks a bit like an Easter egg year round. We prefer her
culinary sense: with a knack for elevating traditional cuisine
to new artistic heights, the menu features creative dishes like
crispy foie gras with strawberry salad and duck stuffed with
nuts on gingerbread. The flavours are wonderful and well eat
at Pani Gesslers table any time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (40-100z). PTAUGSW
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. This warm, timber-framed,
two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market
square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommen-
dations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere.
If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name
wesele refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food,
love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place werent full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
youd actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). PTAUEGSW
Wianki C-3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 696 47 51
85, www.restauracjawianki.pl. The resul t of much
preparation, this high-profile tourist funnel and its sister
Spdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-away ul.
Meiselsa 11, tel. (+48) 536 77 74 05, spoldzielnia.
org. In concept, Cooperative (as it translates to in English)
is an ambitious community initiative to promote a healthy,
organic, vegetarian lifestyle by supporting local organic farms
and creating more awareness about what we eat and where
it comes from. In action, its a crunchy vegetarian lunch bar
offering take-away wraps, stay-in daily specials and vegan
desserts that all follow the philosophy of the five transforma-
tions. Enjoy organic fair trade coffee and tea, local organic
beers and fresh squeezed juices in a modest interior with
paper bag lampshades and Manu Chau explaining his bongo
upbringing on the speakers. Find out what else the local
activists have on the agenda by dropping in Wednesdays
for film screenings in English and weekends for live music.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (12-20z).
T6VEGSW
NEW
WieloPole 3 D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 506 02 47
67. This large cellar restaurant on an otherwise avoidable
street may offer only a limited menu and be overall lacking
in atmosphere, but the food is outstanding and the value
unbeatable. A seemingly routine list of rather pedestrian
vegetarian fare (soups, salads, veggie cutlets, tofu burgers)
is given royal treatment by the chef who apparently isnt
aware that the staff are only charging 8z(!) for entrees. Get
your greens in the form of a wheatgrass shot, or the house
specialty wheatgrass drink with apple juice and lavender
syrup - delicious. Heartily recommended and heres hoping it
overcomes obscurity to become the local lunch bar of choice
for everyone in the neighbourhood. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00.
(8-10z). PTA6UGSW
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other
street corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable theyve
become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwar-
zanek is one of only two Polish foods currently protected
by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the
Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the
Polish word for par-boiled and therefore differs slightly
from the bagel, in addition to being its internationally
popular counterparts predecessor. Though the origins
of the Jewish bagel are complex, confusing and hotly-
contested, most agree that it was invented by Krakw
Jews after 1496 when King Jan Sobieski lifted the decree
that formerly restricted the production of baked goods
to the Krakw Bakers Guild. First written mention of the
obwarzanek meanwhile dates back to 1394, meaning
that its been a daily sight on Krakws market square
for over 600 years. Though increased tourism in recent
years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek up to around
1.50z (sacrilege!), youll still see countless people on the
go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when
fresh, the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot
up to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000
obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on
leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of
about three hours. As such, finding a hot one is essen-
tial. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed
Krakws entire pigeon population when in the evenings
the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts essentially become
bird-food vendors.
The Obwarzanek
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Polish Restaurant
Open: Sun-Thu 12.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 12.00 - 24.00
a/ /amkomaka !3-!5 J+akm le/ !2 30-!-08 mmmcje+moneko+a/eea
57
CAFS
56
CAFS
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22, www.gelateria4d.com. Deli-
cious gourmet Italian coffee and ice cream on the first floor
of Galeria Krakowska. On offer are more than 70 (!) gelato
flavours and fruit sorbets, including some creative and ut-
terly adorable sundae creations for kids, plus pancakes,
bruschette, baguettes and other savoury eats. This modern
cafe in caramel and chocolate colours is the ultimate place
to recharge and treat yoursel f when shopping becomes
exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PA6UGSW
Bal K- 4, ul . l usar ska 9 (entr ance f r om ul .
Przemysowa), tel. (+48) 608 58 94 59. If youre feeling a
bit self-conscious about being a tourist after visiting MOCAK
or Schindlers Factory, a trip to Bal will help restore your street
cred. Located literally right behind MOCAK, but with a slyly
hidden entrance (take your first left before the museums),
this stylish cafe, bar and brunch spot is part of the first wave
of pioneers pitching their tents in Zabocie (that unseemly,
industrial section of Podgrze). What should be an obscure
studio space has been turned into a hip hangout with high
ceilings and exposed bulbs, wooden tables and white walls.
At its best in the mornings with great coffee and breakfast
offerings (note the all-you-can-eat weekend brunch buffet for
only 15z), daily lunch specials accompany soup, sandwiches,
quiche and a good beer selection. Essentially the antithesis
of everything in the Old Town, with Bal Krakws young cre-
atives are marking their territory. Find it and find out. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. A6UGBSW
Bococa H-2, Pl. Inwalidw 7, tel. (+48) 12 359 61 65.
This small NYC-inspired cafe/bistro is a great place to start
the day or get some work done, offering all the (heretofore
locally unheard of) hallmarks of a good brunch spot: delicious
coffee, good sweets and healthy eats, fine wines and great
bottled from Belgium, the UK and PL, vitamin-rich veggie
cocktails and shakes, reliable wifi, and (drum roll, please)...
even mimosas! As soon as you walk in the door, you can tell:
this place gets it. Featuring a sharp, black and white interior
of exposed bricks and fixtures, the Pl. Inwalidw location is a
bit off the beaten track, but easily accessed by tram and bus.
Essentially a little slice of Green Point (Brooklyns predomi-
nantly Polish neighbourhood), here in Krakw; lets keep this
ironic cultural exchange going (more like this, please). QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PTA6GSW
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421
01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collec-
tion of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors
pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local
stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no less
than a city institution. An extensive menu features all-day
breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of warm lo-
cal liquors, and the elevated seat in the window may be the
most romantic spot in town. A cultural institution, descend to
the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully
strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot
cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
T6VGBSW
Cheder E-6, ul. Jzefa 36 (entrance from ul. Jakuba),
tel. (+48) 515 73 22 26, www.cheder.pl. Opened by
the Jewish Culture Festival Association in a former prayer
house, Cheder continues Kazimierzs obsession with its past,
serving as a Jewish cultural centre and cafe. A large open
space with wooden furnishings, Cheder hosts lectures, film
screenings, concerts and other events promoting Judaism;
however its most impressive resource is the in-house library
ul. Pawia 5, 31-154 Krakw
Galeria Krakowska (level -1 & +1)
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
Gelato Caff
Few thi ngs i n li fe get a Pol e more ani mated than a
good dessert. Ranging from doughnuts and pastries
to a plethora of cakes and tortes, many of which have
come to be associated with particular holidays, Polish
desserts are known for not being too sweet and for too
often incorporating marmalade, gelatine or alcohol (in our
opinion, anyway). The classic Polish desserts we list below
can be purchased in any cukiernia (pastry shop) worth
its salt (or sugar, as the case may be) and many cafes.
Sernik
Polish for cheesecake, sernik is one of the countrys most
popular desserts and youll have a hard time convincing
any Pole youve been to their country if you dont try it.
Made with a sweet curd cheese (twarg) and served
cold, there are plenty of variations, including those with
raisins, gelatine or chocolate sauce. Every Polish family
has a sernik specialist whose job it is to bring one of these
delicious cakes to holiday gatherings and get-togethers.
Szarlotka
Any Pole will tell you that the best apples in the world come
from Poland, and Polish apple pie is a standard served almost
everywhere you go. Made with shortbread, the apples are
typically tart and flavoured with cinnamon and cloves.
Kremwka
A cream pie made of two thin layers of puff pastry filled
with vanilla custard cream and often topped with powdered
sugar. One of our favourite Polish treats, kremwka was
popularised across PL by the late Pope John Paul II, who
made the mistake of offhandedly commenting about
eating cream cakes once in his hometown of Wadowice,
thus creating a cottage industry in the small town 50km
southwest of Krakw almost overnight.
Pierniki
Pol i sh gi ngerbread, or pi erni ki,
comes in many varieties, but the
most famous is Toruski Piernik,
which has been produced in the
northern town of Toru since the
Middle Ages. Slightly soft, chewy
and flavoured with honey, cinnamon,
ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg,
anise and lavender, these small
gingerbread cookies can be glazed
with sugar, covered in chocolate or filled with marmalade.
Pczki
A tradition since the 1700s, pczki are so popular they
even have their own holiday Tusty Czwartek (Fat
Thursday) when everyone in PL fills their faces with these
dense deep-fried doughnuts. Typically filled with rose jam,
glazed with sugar and topped with candied orange peel,
pczki are similar to American jelly doughnuts, the main
difference being that Polands conservative tendencies
ensure there is only a drop of marmalade in the centre
somewhere, which an elaborate game could be made
around trying to find.
Polish Desserts
of Jewish-related books, many of which are in English. What-
ever your relationship with Israel, this quiet, wifi-enabled cafe
is undeniably one of the best places to work or study in town,
with a delicious cup of Israeli coffee served in a traditional
finjan to guide you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW
Cracow Chocolate Factory B-3, ul. Szewska 7,
tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.pl.
Formerly known as Lviv Chocolate Factory, this old school
Galician chocolatier has changed its name to reflect the fact
that everything is actually made on-site here in Krakw. As
such, this amazing 2-floor mini-factory, which includes a shop,
showroom, cafe and workshop, is an even better place for
tourists to pick up sweet souvenirs. Cleverly luring clients
by using its enormous shop-front windows to reveal the
charming goings-on of its Wonka-esque workshop filled with
chocolate churning machines and workers icing chocolate
hearts in plain view (trading Oompah Loompas for Polish girls
certainly helps), visitors enter to discover an elaborate shop
filled with delicious treats in every direction: truffles, pralines,
chocolate postcards, figurines and more. An escalator and
elevator whisk you upstairs to the cafe, where we recommend
a taste of the delicious hot chocolate flavoured with amaretto
and cinnamon. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAGSW
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12
422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a caf
as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was in this
very establishment that Moda Polska - Polands Art Nouveau
movement - was founded, with many of the leading artists
of the day choosing to take their libations inside this grand
venue, and tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly
changed a bit since then and still features loads of original art-
work from the fin-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings,
A typical breakfast in Poland usually consists of a ciga-
rette and maybe a coffee or juice. Unlike some western
countries where the direction of ones day seems to
superstitiously depend on the ability to eat a good break-
fast, here in PL the notion of starting the day right with
a fortifying meal just hasnt caught on. In fact ask five
Polish working girls what theyve had to eat that day come
13:00, and you can bet at least three of them havent
had more than a cup of yoghurt, claiming theyre just
not hungry in the mornings. Mm-hmm... Hard-pressed
as you may be to find a proper breakfast in this town,
fear not - they do exist and weve provided the details of
the best below. Smacznego, champ.
Alchemia od Kuchni ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882
04 42 99. One of the best places in Krakw to start your
day is now also the same place you ended it. This mod-
est addendum to the legendary Alchemia bar has one
of the most enticing breakfast menus in town, including
chorizo hashbrowns, eggs benedict, eggs florentine and
delicious American pancakes, and coffee, juice or water
is included in the price (sorry tea drinkers). Really, the
only downer is that you have to get up so early to catch
it; heres hoping they extend their breakfast hours. Q
Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
(12-30z). TA6GSW
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2,
tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80, www.bistrocharlotte.com.
Early risers wont find any better place to start the day in
the Old Town than Charlotte, which offers great coffee,
fresh bread, pastries, a variety of breakfast sets and a
wonderful atmosphere from 7:00 (or 9:00 on weekends)
until they close. High ceilinged and full of natural light from
wall-length windows overlooking Plac Szczepaski this
is a great place to read the paper, open the laptop or
slowly unwind the day ahead of you. Q Breakfast served
07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (8-18z). TA6GSW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. One of the best early menus
available in Kazimierz, Scandale offers bagels with genuine
Philadelphia cream cheese, proper English and American
breakfast sets and a variety of large, fluffy omelettes - all
at bargain prices. Try their sister site - Scandale Royal (Pl.
Szczepaski 2, B-2) - to happily go beyond bread, spreads
and meat for breakfast in the Old Town. Q Breakfast
served 08:00 - 13:00. (9-19z). PTAUXSW
Milkbar Tomasza D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. With half the menu devoted to
early morning eats, Milk Bar is an astute place to start
the day. Select from a range of scrambled, fried, and even
poached(!) egg platters, crepes and paninis, served all
day. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 -
22:00. (10-16z). PTAUGSW
Moment Resto E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668
03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. Its Sunday brunch
every day in Moment where breakfast is served until
16:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English, Pol-
ish, French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best
bargains in town at 13-19z, including free refills of coffee
or tea. Q Breakfast served 09:00 - 16:00. (13-19z).
PTAGSW
Breakfast
58
CAFS
59
CAFS
stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking
section. Theres also a full menu of Polish food and regular
folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist
groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the
appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue is
still essential. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00.
PTA6UEXSW
Karma Coffee Roasters A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel.
(+48) 506 06 06 84. If you want to rate the best coffee
in Krakw, head to ul. Krupnicza. Karmas is fair trade from
Union Coffee - a small London roaster - and connoisseurs
will also note that its prepared with one of the best espresso
machines in the world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down).
But this is hardly the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks
set. Karma caters to a more modern, alternative crowd with
a range of vegan and gluten-free baked goods - tarts, cakes,
cookies and more - made fresh on site each day. Daily spe-
cials include delicious vegetarian soups, stir-fries and curries
that will make you feel great about what youre eating, as well
as how little youre paying for it. With a full breakfast menu
to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to
not just wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a
weekend location with a large garden in Kazimierz at ul. w.
Wawrzyca 9/2 (D-7, open Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
18:00 only). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
TA6GSW
Kawiarnia Michalscy B-3, ul. w. Anny 2, tel. (+48)
12 426 49 27. The Michalscy brand is well-known, if not
prolific in Krakw and this enormous new locale caddy-corner
to the market square sees the firm flexing its muscles a bit.
Located in a former shopping centre turned conference and
banquet centre, Michalscys corner is exactly that - merely
a corner of the complex, but still the largest cafe/sweets
shop in Krakow. As such it has quite a lot to offer tourists,
especially those in large groups finding it a challenge to fit
everyone in elsewhere. Specialising in coffee and cakes,
youll find it full of families and tourists, but theres still a good
chance you can nab one of the nice window tables looking
out on the square and stick a fork in some Polish desserts.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGSW
Konfederacka 4 A-7, ul. Konferderacka 4, tel. (+48)
12 266 00 90. If you find yourself in Dbniki - the neglected
neighbourhood across the river from Wawel - dont miss
this outstanding cafe/wine bar/bistro. Though obscurely
located, whoever rather bravely identified the potential of
this place has a great eye. Simply, but smartly designed,
Mamy Cafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 20, tel. (+48) 12
422 06 65, www.mamycafe.pl. The name not only
refers to mothers, but literally translates to we have a
cafe - exactly describing the spirit of this hidden city cen-
tre sanctuary which goes out of its way to accommodate
parents with young children. The simple decor creates
an at-home atmosphere and helpful amenities include
high chairs, changing tables and privacy screens, plus
diapers and wet wipes behind the bar. Kids have their own
special menu, plenty of toys and games, and in summer
the outside garden literally doubles the play space. Wifi-
enabled so you can combine business with childcare (if
you have to), theres really nothing they havent thought
of to make the job of being a parent easier. Take a break
and take advantage. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. TAUGBSW
With the Little Ones
the cosy front room of exposed bricks and unfinished floors
doubles as a gallery, while the fabulous back room features
large warehouse windows overlooking ivy-covered walls, an
entresol that gives the impression of a NYC lofted apartment,
and a large white-tiled oven underneath which belies the
buildings actual history as an old bakery. Taking the term
open kitchen to a new level, the stove is right amongst
the tables so the cooks literally work amongst the clients.
With delicious coffee, a nice wine and cheese selection and
great breakfast, dinner and desserts, this is a great place
to drop in any time of day - a statement which the friendly
neighbourhood cat who comes and goes surely agrees with.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. TA6GSW
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour
of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight
of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just
the best English language bookshop youll ever find in East-
ern Europe, but also an atmospheric caf where budding
playwrights convene for muted whisperings and American
cookies, bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now
wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room.
Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important
community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for
foreigners; dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
NEW
Meho Cafe A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 600 48 00
49. Long one of our favourite places for a respite in Krakw,
the magnificent gardens and grounds of the Mehoffer House
have been made into the majority seating area of the other-
wise tiny Meho Cafe & Bistro at the back of the estate. Full of
roses and fruit trees, this expansive oasis is well-maintained
and completely uncluttered, making it one of the most peace-
ful, pleasant places to bring your book and enjoy a coffee,
arrange an evening rendezvous with friends over beer, or
select from their menu of tasty, impossibly-priced eats like
the rabbit in plum wine sauce with salad and baked potatoes
for only 24z(!). Open early with a full breakfast menu, if youve
had enough of the bustle of the market square, theres no
better, more magical place in Krakw to start the day or
unwind in the sun than here. Highly recommended. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. TGS
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this local classic
located inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the hundred-year of
Krakws highs and lows since it opened in 1910. Famous as
the place where Comrade Lenin would read the papers during
his visits, WWII occupation later saw Noworolski become the
top haunt of Nazi nabobs, before the family-owned business
was taken away by the communist authorities, only to be
returned in 1991. Things have changed little in terms of style
and service since then, making Noworolski a creaky throwback
favoured today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their
years, but the exquisite art nouveau interiors by Jzef Mehoffer
are among the most decadent in town and well worth a look.
Youll find cheaper and better coffee in the city but it wont be
served to such an atmospheric backdrop. QOpen 08:30 -
24:00. TAGBSW
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art Cafe
is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that
houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows over-
looking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you
start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch
some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts biggest
draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar
which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar
at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Satori Cafe-Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 25, tel. (+48) 12 349
07 24, www.satori-cafe.com. This charming little hideaway
in Kazimierz has all the hallmarks of a great cafe: good cof-
fee, lots of natural light, modern retro furnishings, shelves
crammed with books, soothing music and a simple menu
(in English even!) of tasty homemade pastas and delicious
desserts, including a decent attempt at carrot cake. Ideal for
work, study and even lunch, Satori has the feel of a classic
local hangout, and though were not from the neighborhood,
its all too easy to feel at home here. Delightful. QOpen 11:00
- 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. A6GBW
Tektura A-2, ul. Krupnicza 7, tel. (+48) 516 14 12
59. Seemingly transplanted from Brooklyn, Tektura once
and for all confirms ul. Krupnicza is the Old Towns coolest
street, while giving the nearby Karma a challenge for the
crown of Krakws best cup of coffee. A point of pride for
the baristas, in addition to being espresso experts, the
staff also operate alternative AeroPress and Chemex cof-
feemakers and are up for any kind of coffee challenge you
can give them - with amazing results. Theres an entire shelf
of enticing microbrews, a cocktail list and full range of fresh
sandwiches, breakfasts and sweet baked goods to boot.
Sporting a hip, urban, industrial-chic interior of unfinished
brick and concrete, with an eco-angle accomplished by stools
made from coiled recycled cardboard, Tektura also provides
plenty of outlets to laptoppers, reliable wifi, boardgames and
basically everything you could ever ask from a cafe/bar. We
hope the competition is taking notes. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A6GSW
If youre a single young lady in Poland on the night of
November 29th, you have a unique, perhaps harrowing,
opportunity before you; or a great excuse to flee the country.
The Eve of St. Andrews Day (Andrzejki) has been associated
with fortune-telling in Poland for centuries. The first written
mention of the tradition goes all the way back to 1557, and
while the seriousness of the proceedings have certainly
lightened, the basic elements of this ancient custom remain
unchanged from the Middle Ages. As St. Andrews Day
(November 30th) marks the beginning of Advent, in those
bygone days it was believed that the spirits of the ancestors
were at their most accessible when they descended back
to earth during this time. With conditions thus in place for a
bit of crystal ball gazing, and with the long, cold and lonely
Polish winter ahead, coupling was naturally the one thing
on every girls mind. Would she be married in the coming
year? And what, pray tell, would her prince look like? Follow-
ing the protocols of the day, a widow, unmarried spinster,
or divorcee was then required to light the thirteen candles
that would call forth the spirits into the room
In those days divinations dealt specifically with marriage,
were taken very seriously and were done in private. As
the tradition evolved, young girls participated in Andrzejki
in groups until eventually boys were let in on the fun and
it became the kind of light-hearted social game playing
that it is today. Of the many games that were played on
Andrzejki in the past, one that remains popular today
involves a group of young girls taking off one of their
shoes and lining them up one after another in a single
file. The girl whose shoe is last in line then takes hers to
the front, and so on, meandering through the house until
reaching the front door; the girl whose shoe is the first
to cross the threshold will be the first to marry (omg!).
The most common Andrzejki tradition carried on today
uses hot wax as a conduit into the spirit world. The wax
must be melted and then poured through the eye of a
skeleton key into a bowl of cool water. Once cooled, the
resultant form is then held in front of a light and the shadow
cast reveals the appearance of your future partner, or
something about their character. While for todays youth
this glimpse into the future might only be as far-sighted
as a few hours, centuries ago it was studied very closely.
Today Andrzejki is a fun, carefree celebration of be-
ing young and single more than anything. And that
means drinking and dancing. Always a big night out
for studentsperhaps determined to forget whatever
grotesque revelation theyve just received or change their
fateevery club in Krakw will be throwing an Andrzejki
party. Get in the mix and see what the future holds.
Andrzejki
61
NIGHTLIFE
60
NIGHTLIFE
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the high-
est density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars
can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the
Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of
course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Krakw
every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices:
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The open-
ing hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking,
the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations
depending on what youre looking for.
Bars & Pubs
Antycafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 12, tel. (+48) 506 48
18 88, www.antycafe.pl. As tempting as it would be to
call Antycafe a hipster haven, since mocking hipsters is
more hip than being one these days, we wouldnt want to
do this fine establishment that disservice. Between the
two full bars on opposite ends of this 30m long anti-caf,
youll find candlelit nooks, eccentric art, great music, and
a very cool vibe indeed. True to its name, the alternative
atmosphere belies more of an edgy bar than a quaint
caf, and with a great beer selection and one of the least
ostracising smoking sections in the Old Town, youve all
the more reason to occupy a table. I f you can find a free
one, that is. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00.
PUBXW
Beer Gallery - Luxury D- 3, ul. w. Tomasza 30,
tel. (+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. I f you
arent yet familiar with Belgian beer, hurry yoursel f to Beer
Gall ery Luxury for an education. Specialising exclusi vel y
i n Bel gian i mported brands, the knowl edgeabl e staf f
are ready to tell you all there is to know about the 150
bottl es in stock (also availabl e to-go) and the 10 types
on draught, as wel l as l etti ng you sampl e the l atter.
Rather than pri ce each label indi vi duall y, Beer Gall ery
of fers every bottl e at an average pri ce of 10z. Not onl y
does this make i t easier, i ts also cheaper than youll find
at the shop and true connoisseurs may even recognise
the opportuni ty to game the system. Whil e li ttl e more
than a hol e-in-the-wall, this Bel gian beer li brary wi th i ts
encycl opaedi c menu is the onl y place of i ts kind in the
country and a great place to try some of the best beers
i n the worl d whil e dul y i mpressi ng your date. Al so at
ul. Dominikaska 3 (C-4) and ul. Warszauera 10 (E-6).
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PUGBW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782
60 19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has
managed to establish i tsel f as a cul t hangout thanks
to a simpl e concept few places foll ow anymore: good
musi c and good peopl e equals good times. Unpreten-
ti ous wi th an i nteri or of unfi ni shed wood, bri ck wal l s
and a small upstairs bal cony l evel wi th a great vi ew of
Pl ac Szczepaski, the sol i d gol d pl ayl i st rotates funk
and soul, el ectro, dub-step, hip-hop and pop. QOpen
10:00 - 04:00. AEGBW
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel.
(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.com.pl. To get
the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when
adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco dance
arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of the two the
warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of the courtyard,
the one on the right being the better of the two. Here, drink-
ers down potent concoctions under the conceited gaze of
gold buddhas illuminated by hundreds of flickering candles.
Check out the unique mezzanine level for something a little
different, while couples suffering a lull in their relationship
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
a ::.
[. :.c
-l( - .
(All matches shown)
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded rst place for quality in
Polands Guinness Competition.
should choose a cozy nook and study the wall paintings of
randy Indian figures entwined in Kama Sutra embraces.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 12:00 - 01:00.
PAUBXW
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,
www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PAUBXW
Bunkier Cafe (The Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a,
tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, www.bunkiercafe.pl. Attached
to Krakws best contemporary art gallery, this enclosed
terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious green-
house wherein the plants have been replaced with couples,
happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving private
lessons around wobbly tables and chairs. A year-round
pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkiers inviting
atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely neg-
ligible table service that cant be circumnavigated. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AUBXW
Caf Szaf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 10, tel. (+48) 663 90 56
52, www.cafeszafe.com. Owned by two amiable artists,
Caf Szaf has a warm, inviting atmosphere unique to most
Krakw bars - a trait which has endeared it to locals and
expats alike. With a secluded back room that frequently hosts
concerts, film and photography exhibitions, Szaf gracefully
accommodates barflies and event attendees simultane-
ously. Red stencilled walls and enormous blue cupboards
and wardrobes - some of which can be sat in - adorned with
strange organic sculptures of birds and other creatures
furnish this long-time favourite. Recommended. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. AUEXW
C.K. Browar B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7, tel. (+48) 12 429 25
05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. On top of being Krakws
primary microbrewery (serving rather palatable Light, Ginger,
Dunkel and Weizen ales), CK Browar has plenty more going
for it including the handsome beer hall interior with copper
brewing vats, tiffany-style lamps and long wooden tables fit
for a viking feast with a fist of grog. Redoubling the barbarian
potential is the possibility of getting a five litre beer tower
with its own tap fitted to your table. Damn good times, the
downside being that what could be an elegant, even so-
phisticated, beer cellar has become a rather loutish lads
bar noted for bad music, bad service and occasionally bad
company - namely intoxicated, unpredictable and sometimes
aggressive local boys. Shame indeed. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAXW
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48) 12
429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between cafe and
bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design of which is
made up for by the character of the clientele: primarily self-
proclaimed artists and intellectuals that blow a lot of smoke.
How many advances and grants have been blown here its
hard to know, but spend a few nights at Dym and youre
guaranteed to become a character in at least two unfinished
novels. Yes, we were all so full of promise back then; back
before all our ambition and drive went into drink, we went
broke and ended up scribbling for this rag... Ah, glory days.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. UGBW
ELITE: Those who want the sexiness of a strip club, with-
out the laddish antics or dodginess should try Stalowe
Magnolie (Live Music) or Burlesque - discerning clubs
that keep it classy while evoking sultry inter-war ambience.
Movida and Shakers are finalists for the best cocktails
in Krakw debate, while Diva and Taawa are the most
upscale clubs in the Old Town and Kazimierz, respectively.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere theres fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Gorczka, Ministerstwo, or Spoem, while
those with more intent to impress head to Frantic and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish MBassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can
try the local institution known as Prozak. Alternatively,
head to CK Browar for a rowdy beer hall that brews its
own, or sample upwards of 150 Polish and foreign ales
at House Of Beer.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should
go tipple tasting in Beer Gallery - Luxury, snuggle in a
cosy loft at wita Krowa, soak up the karma sutra
ambience of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by
candlelight in Mleczarnia (Kazimierz) or stay home and
listen to Barry White.
ALTERNATIVE: Take your tight pants and non-prescrip-
tion specs to Miejsce (Kazimierz), Bomba or Forum
Przestrzenie, your photography portfolio to Pauza,
your unfinished novel to Dym and your self-destructive
side to Klub Pikny Pies (Kazimierz) or Rozrywki 3.
Nightlife at a Glance
There are a number of ways to survi ve the winter in
Poland, and weve tri ed them all, from dressing up
like an Eskimo to staying in bed and refusing to get
dressed at all. Of all the methods known, however,
none rewards as much as a pint of 'grzane piwo'.
Thats hot beer i n l aymans terms essentiall y a
frothing hot pint spi ced wi th arti fi cial ginger syrup,
cl ove, cinnamon and other mulling spi ces. For some
an acqui red taste, for others an earl y Chri stmas
present and others still an utter profani ty, but an
invention necessary for everyone to try at least once.
There are a coupl e things to consi der wi th regards
to hot beer: Firstl y, i t takes a whil e (5-10 minutes)
to properl y heat the drink wi thout expl oding i t, so
prepare to wai t and be pati ent. Secondl y there is
a tendency to i mmedi atel y stab a straw i nto the
glass to mi x the syrup at the bottom throughout the
drink. I f the beverage is too hot this will resul t in i t
erupting all over you. This common rooki e mistake
is an event many twisted bartenders wai t for wi th
relish; you can avoi d i t by simpl y l etting your drink
cool sli ghtl y and gingerl y testing i ts reaction to the
straw. [ We're telling you this to save you some face.
Ours has had egg on i t too many times.] Similarl y
popular is 'grzane wino' or mull ed wine as youll
noti ce by the barrel -shaped stands selling cups of
i t on the market square. The popular regional brand
is Grzani ec Gali cyj ski and i f you enj oy drinking i t in
public so much, youll be delighted to discover you can
buy i t in almost any al cohol shop and easil y prepare
i t at home as well.
Hot Beer?
62
NIGHTLIFE
63
NIGHTLIFE
Forum Przestrzenie I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28,
tel. (+48) 888 71 59 05. Opening in the formerly aban-
doned, monstrous and much-maligned Soviet-era Forum
Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie immediately vaults itself to the
top of the list of Krakw's most original, intriguing and hip
locales, without even really trying (not caring is the key to
being 'cool' after all). The owners have simply added dozens
of beach chairs, bean bags, retro sofas and a bit of graffiti
art to the original interiors and vintage neon signs of the
reception area, assembled a competent kitchen to create
stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked the bar with
good beer, and watched the talented, tattooed post-college
crowd ("hipsters" you might call them) turn this vast riverside
bar into the trendiest place to be day or night. With great
views and plenty of space, DJ parties and other events, the
Forum is basically the best beer garden, if not the best bar,
in town - especially when the sun is out. We might as well
quit our job and camp out there. Our work is done.QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. AEGBW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Sit back enjoying
your cocktail or beer overlooking the market square and
Cloth Hall from Hard Rocks split level glass bar. The chaps
here know how to make that drink and the smiling faces
can sometimes be all you need after a long day facing stern
museum curators. Not the cheapest place in town, but one
of comfort for many. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
02:00. PAUGBW
House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.
Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeer-
krakow.com. House of Beer may be the best of the bars
improving the beer culture of Polands drinking capital, with
over 200 bottles and 18 draught beers on hand in this high
ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large leather
sofas. Full of foreigners and locals alike, the atmosphere is
friendly without being overly laddish, or having the unneces-
sary and all too common distraction of TVs nattering in the
background. Some bottles can be a bit pricey so find out
what the damage is before asking the barman to uncork one,
or try the more local ales on draught for more of a bargain.
QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. PAGW
Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431
02 21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in the
midst of Krakws embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy
is a popular place for weekenders and expats to get their
passports punched and forget where they are. Numerous TV
screens beam down live sports over three stories of original
brick and gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship signage,
sports and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness during
matches, the doe-eyed staff do well to keep track of the
orders fired at them, while a decent line of pub grub - burgers
and baguettes - makes this a one stop solution for a long
night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 04:00.
PAEXW
Movida Cocktail Bar D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48)
12 429 45 97, www.movida-bar.pl. After the break-up
of the ownership team, Paparazzi has changed its name to
Movida, but kept the spirit and identity of the place basically
intact. A long, narrow space plastered with candid pics of
celebs practising their pout, Movidas cocktail list is second
to none and this remains first choice for anyone looking to
clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed by a team
of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Guinness in the
fridge add to the overall appeal of this celebration of celeb-
rity. Q Open 15:00 - 01:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 03:00.
PAUXW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18 (1st floor), tel. (+48) 12
422 48 66. One of the trendiest drinking dens in the Old
Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar to feel like youre
in the know. Full of stylish haircuts and sexy dresses, Pauza
twins as a photography gallery with perfectly illuminated
high-quality exhibitions, making the hipsters feel justifiably
art-smart. Furnishings are modern with low loveseats and
stools and some enviable tables in the windows overlooking
Floriaska. Despite an atrocious queue for the toilet and
typically trendy house music, this is one of the best hangout
spots in the Old Town. The tenement its in represents a veri-
table house of culture with a cinema and gallery on the upper
floors and dingy club in the basement below. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. AXW
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. A
nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian cellar
bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish bric-a-brac,
a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming sports,
fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphy's, Guinness, Kilkenny
and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable atmosphere
beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great place to meet
people and find out just what exactly 'the craic' is, PP actu-
ally captures everything we like about being in an Irish bar.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUBXW
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, www.krakow.
someplace-else.pl. Nine plasma screens for live sports,
friendly staff and a quality menu of bar eats that steers
towards the Tex-Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an
easy place to witness your down time overpower whatever
itinerary you thought you had in Krakw. The list of world
beers goes above and beyond the usual choice of local
liquids, and the American interior is a combo of Yank road
signs and pics of rocknroll heroes. Though not open late,
this low-key expat and itinerants bar is still your best bet for
convincing the staff to help you watch your favourite MLB,
NFL or NBA team in action. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
Spazio D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9 (corner of ul. Szpitalna
and ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 29 48, www.
spazio-bar.pl. This sleek coffee and cocktail bar is an
ideal place for an early evening/after work drink, thanks to
an excellent design and extensive list of alluring libations.
Unwind in the window or recline in the mezzanine with one of
their creative (albeit pricey) Prosecco or whiskey cocktails. A
small selection of sandwiches and sweets are also on hand
in this stylishly modern, subtly upscale lounge where every
detail has been carefully considered, from the bathroom
doors to the smiles on the bargirls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18. Perhaps the most enchant-
ing and laid-back bar in the Old Town, wita Krowa is an
intoxicating alchemic elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight,
cloves and ambient eastern grooves. Hidden in a small,
soulful brick cellar off Floriaska, The Holy Cow inhabits two
oriental sitting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned
stools and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure
a range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this is
the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an opium
nap). We miss the terrarium, but wita Krowa is still a highly
recommended cult hangout. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. XW
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, the best of them is Pod
Oson Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich witych
and ul. Grodzka (C-4); though with the low quality of
Cracovian kebabs, thats not saying much. Your options
are actually better than that, from all night pierogi shops
to the 24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up
all over town (see Polish Snacks & Shots). Perhaps
Polands most popular street food is the zapiekanka
(see Cracovian Cooking box for more) and the best place
to get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at least
02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only late night
food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski sidewalk sausage stand. For more on Krakws
best late night eats, see below:
Alchemia od Kuchni ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 882
04 42 99. After our own reservations towards the very
idea, we can gladly report that this place really impress-
es. An extension of the legendary bar of the same name,
Alchemia od Kuchnia serves a spot-on menu of sit-down
street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic entrees
including fish pie, Moroccan meatballs, samosas, curries
and more. Open late and open early (we set a special
alarm in order to experience their awesome breakfast),
everything weve tried has been great, essentially making
od Kuchni our favourite thing about Alchemia these days.
The simple, white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of
NYC or Copenhagens meatpacking districts, the prices
wont divest you of your beer money, and the service is
light years ahead of the bar next door. The team behind
this place obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on
the location and crowds; cheers to that. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (10-30z). AGSW
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski E- 4, ul. Grze-
grzecka (Hala Targowa). This legendary sidewalk
sausage stand has been a Cracovian street food
institution for the last twenty years. Here two old boys
in white smocks set up shop outside their blue Nyska (a
Soviet model van) every evening except Sundays to grill
kiebasa sausages over a wood fired stove for the hungry,
drunken masses. For 8z you get a delicious sausage,
slightly stale roll, ketchup, mustard and an unforgettable
experience. Dont miss it if youre in the neighbourhood.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. This sexy lounge
and bistro has its own special late night menu served
from 22:00 until close, comprised of tasty tapas dishes.
Choose from exotic and elegant finger foods like brus-
chetta, tuna empanadillas, Black Tiger prawns with garlic,
meat balls and a lot more. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. (8-23z). PAUXSW
Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel.
(+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Join legions
of happy locals tucking into the legendary pierogi served
with no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from be-
hind a counter. It is a long way from fine dining but for a
quintessential Krakw experience there are few better
places to come. Now open all night, its cheaper than a
kebab and a much better value when everything else is
closed. Q Open 24 hrs. (9-14z). AGSW
Late Night Eats
64
NIGHTLIFE
65
NIGHTLIFE
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 stu-
dents and a growing tour-
i st i ndustry eggi ng i t on,
Krakws club scene contin-
ues to expand beyond rea-
son, with each successive
offing trying to out-swank
its predecessor. The main
hedonist high streets are Floriaska (C-2/3) and Szewska
(B-3) where narry a medieval cellar will be left unthronged
by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday night. Dont
be surprised to encounter weekend cover charges ranging
anywhere from 5-20z at most venues, and dont expect
to find toilet paper in any of them after 22:00. Clubs in the
Kazimierz district appear in their own section.
Baccarat C- 3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11
67 60, www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the vel vet
rope of Baccarat and you noti ce one thing immediatel y:
a l ot of money has been spent on making this arguabl y
the most stylish and extravagant musi c club in Krakw.
Covered i n pl ush uphol stery and ful l of fi ne touches
including every el egant chandeli er and lamp, the giant
mirrorball DJ station, and even a room wi th a dance-pol e
and wall -size mirror that can be coyl y curtained of f, Bac-
carat cl earl y raises the bar on Krakws ni ghtli fe scene.
Though theyve since added a smoking room, this swanky
swish tank was the first to go compl etel y non-smoking
in the days of the dingy Krakw cellar club, whi ch mi ght
explain why i t still l ooks as great as ever. Expect to pay
a small cover after 23:00. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat onl y:
20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
base music club B-3, ul. w. Anny 6 (entrance from
ul. Jagielloska), tel. (+48) 883 93 00 03, www.
baseclub.pl. Long gone, it would seem, are the days when
youd just throw some chairs in a basement, some beer in
a fridge and call it a club. Base continues Krakws current
cash-on-the-cuff club trend by pimping a spectacular 400
square metres of cellar space into another posh pleasure
den, this one directly across from the ancient attic where
Copernicus about-faced the field of astronomy almost 500
years ago. Full of fluctuating colours, padded bricks and
reflective floors, Base features three bars over four rooms in
four aesthetic styles, two air-conditioned dance floors where
DJs slice and splice the latest sounds, and the obligatory VIP
section occupying the ground floor. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. PAXW
Burlesque C-3, ul. w. Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Pal-
ace), tel. (+48) 694 44 01 90, www.burlesqueclub.
eu. Located in the cellars of the market squares 16th
century Bonerowski Palace, the main draw of this intimate
dance club with silk-draped ceilings innovatively strung with
illuminated strands are the cheeky burlesque performances
that take place Friday and Saturday after midnight, when the
clubs resident dancers take to the elevated stage in skimpy
1930s cabaret attire and tease the howling crowds with
dance routines that stop short of stripping, but certainly
leave little to the imagination. Its an intimate experience
and one that carefully treads a line of being just classy
enough to bring the wi fe to. Despite the face police at the
door, once youre downstairs its less intimidating than
youd expect with fun music and an atmosphere that isnt
too snobby for students or too grubby for gentiles. Actually,
its a hell of a good time. Tables are limited, so reservations
would be wise. Q Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 20:00 - 04:00.
PAEXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Krakws best
regarded clubs for several years running, Cie is a wet
dream for foreign lads weaned on commercial house music
and enjoying favourable exchange rates while being fawned
over by bombshell blondes who make a sport of their sex
appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false phone num-
bers under the interrogation lamp of the dawn, but witness
yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing than truly
exclusive, as long as youve made the effort to look the part
and can stand up straight, your impatience with the door
queue is probably the most likely thing to keep you out of
Cies medieval cellars. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. PAXW
Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fash-
ionistas idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels:
the sexy cellar club full of disco balls and laser beams,
leather divans and scantil y-clad sirens beyond the red
velvet rope, and the ground floor cocktail lounge (open
from 18:00) for those who dont make it past the preten-
tious face control. The former makes for a fun place to
mingle with coquettish calendar girls between pretend-
ing to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while the
latter is a better daytime destination for being seen with
an expensive cocktail before swanking off to your own
sel f-image in one of the many mirrors suspended on the
walls. On weekends prepare to dispense some cash to
get downstairs. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00; Fr, Sat 21:00 -
06:00. PAEXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83,
www.frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what
asserts itself as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets.
The design is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough
exposed rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes,
but the soundsystem lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pajamas. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAXW
Gorczka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 61, www.klubgoraczka.pl. Neatly located at the
nexus of Krakws clubbing corridor, Gorczka has always
been the sloppy, care-free, rebellious younger sister of the
Szewska family, ready to break a bottle, break into tears
or take off with the first guy who invites her to his place.
Following a cheap make-up job/renovation, the character
of this place hasnt changed a bit. Dodge the queues next
door, look nice and win entrance to this fun meat-market
full of eager ladies making-out with their dance partners
and sweaty dudes with open shirts and wandering hands
prowling to the extremely loud, but proven dance hits that
always keep everyones flesh in friction. Its a playful atmo-
sphere and youre guaranteed to have a drink spilled on you,
but nonetheless, youve got every reason to feel bad about
yourself if youre heading home alone. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAX
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel.
(+48) 12 421 12 17. A well-loved design in this subterra-
nean sinners resort features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed
rock, three bars, two DJ stations and raised seating areas to
retreat from the dance-floor action where an eclectic range
of funk, old school and break beats are likely to lure you. The
smell of Tabasco from mad dog shots lingers at the bar
where bronze ass-groping barstools give you a free frisking.
A very Polish phenomenon that has swept the country in
recent years is the 24-hour snack and shot bar. Known
locally as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these trendy, formulaic budget bars cash in on commu-
nist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices by offering
a small selection of simple, local appetisers (typically
served cold) for about 8z each, with drinks typically fixed
at 4z. Familiar as the bar food of the lean communist
years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to
the Jeopardy question Foods that follow vodka and
typically includes ledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka
(pig trotters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage), pierogi, pickles
and tartare. Much like a milk bar with a liquor license,
Zakski Przekski bars offer budget food and drink late
night and are a great place to meet the citys strangest
characters. We list the best in Krakw below:
Ambasada ledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.
(+48) 662 56 94 60. Theres a vodka and led bar on
seemingly every corner in Krakw these days, and were
gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this fishy
fad. They were first, and if were judging by food, theyre also
the best. In case youre wondering, pickled herring (led)
is a delicacy in these parts in the same way that vodka
is local parlance for medicine. The two go great together
and for 12z its a cheap fling with foreign culinary culture.
The dive bar interior of graffiti scribbles makes The Her-
ring Embassy a hipster haven - one that stays crammed
with clients long into morning, and is evidently well worth
imitating. Theres also a tiny second location (May led)
in Kazimierz at ul. Boego Ciaa 11 (D-6, open 10:00 - 02:00,
Thu 10:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 - 07:00). QOpen 08:00 -
05:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 05:00. GBW
BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 6, tel. (+48) 790
77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to
let the party end, despite powerful objections from your
liver, wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you.
Open 24 hours, this rowdy bar has proven very popular
with the young folks, who dont seem to care that the
cheap beer and booze (4z) comes in smaller glasses (.4l
of beer, 40ml of vodka), and have decided that eating
questionable 8z soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the
height of fashion. Though BaniaLuka is on par with the
best, youll find similar establishments on almost every
square in Krakw, so count out your zoty in increments
of four and treat yourself to an early morning vodka crawl.
Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBW
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-3, ul. w. Jana 3-5 (en-
trance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas
Lane, Pijalnias around the clock crowds make it hard to
miss. Flooded inside and out with students and street
urchins, Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried
and trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu
of traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs
that conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally. Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6). Q Open 24hrs. GW
Polish Snacks & Shots
Lizard King C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 11a, tel. (+48)
601 69 20 32, www.lizardking-krakow.pl. Follow-
ing their success in other Polish cities, Lizard King has
brought music to the masses of Krakw, largely other-
wise deprived of a proper rock venue. Expect paid entry
to see their nightly noisy Polish rock acts, plus expensive
beer and cocktails that do nothing to dent its popularity.
An abundance of balconies and tables leading to a large
stage with an old-school LED display pixelating behind it
make up the head-banging burnt sienna interior. Arrive
early or reserve a table if you have more than a passing
interest in the evenings performance. Q Open 18:00 -
02:00; Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Concerts generally start
at 21:30. PAEXW
PiecArt C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 64
25, www.piecart.pl. The most attractive of Krakws
jazz dens, and as such a honey pot for pompous, preened
jazz know-it-alls. The vaulted interiors make for great
acoustics and frequently attract the biggest names in
the city during evening concerts, but stand warned about
the rife snobbism of punters and staff alike. Live jazz
concerts take place almost every night but you should
check their website for the exact schedule. QOpen
19:00 - 01:00. PAEXW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.
stalowemagnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s
Parisian brothel, the interior of this legendary venue is
an appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas,
with jewel-encrusted pictureframes and strings of red
fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures. Instru-
ments cling to the walls as a team of young waitresses
in evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your
table. The live music is frequently outstanding, with
velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning into the night to the
appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and
Rolexed businessmen. A club card gets you into the VIP
section with its own DJ station and bar, where plush,
silk-canopied beds forbid bashful behavior. QOpen
20:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PAEX
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet
project from the same team behind Stalowe Magnolie,
so expect much of the same. The interior is a sensory
delight washed in red, with plush loveseats, scattered
cushions, exotic lamps and an outstanding bartop lined
with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is matched
perfectly with live piano and jazz performances. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. PAEGB
U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriaska 3, tel. (+48) 530
69 05 29, www.umuniaka.pl. Find one of Krakws
most legendary jazz clubs at the bottom of a flight of
stairs in a 14th-century cellar just seconds away from
St. Marys Cathedral. Unchanged in years, though the
names on stage may have fallen off the cutting edge
and its now mostly clogged with tourists, U Muniaka is
still a no bullshit jazz venue: pay the no bullshit waitress
(10-20z depending on the night), take a seat and hear
some no bullshit jazz music. The acoustics are great,
the atmosphere intimate and attentive, and dont be
surprised by unannounced appearances by legends like
Nigel Kennedy. Enthusiasts shouldnt be disappointed.
Concerts nightly from 21:30. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00.
PEGW
Live Music
66
NIGHTLIFE
67
NIGHTLIFE
Always packed with students and party people, Ministerstwo
hosts the citys best midweek party on otherwise sleepy
Tuesday nights and the laid-back ground-floor garden (open
every day) is one of the best kept secrets in Krakw during
the warmer months. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Fri 19:00 - 04:00,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PABXW
Prozak 2.0 C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 6, tel. (+48) 730
06 63 80. Having gone from A-list to a miss and then just
completely missing, this well-known dance club has been
renovated and re-launched itsel f as Prozak 2.0. Once a
honey-trap for horny foreigners hoping to pull from the pool
of bottle blondes happily putting drinks on their tabs, Prozak
has used its absence to get out of most of the guidebooks
(not this one), back into the good graces of Krakws serious
clubbing scene, and onto the cutting edge with an impressive
line-up of top DJs on weekends. The interior, while spruced
up a bit, hasnt particularly changed and remains an endless
maze of underground rooms over two levels with an incredible
four bars and three dance-floors on which to wild out. The
crowd is mostly local, but just as fun, flirty and foreign-friendly
as ever with the party continuing until the natural selection
of those with blondes and those with kebabs takes place
in the blurry light of another dawn. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. PAXW
Rozrywki Trzy D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3. Essentially the
Pikny Pies of the Old Town, this somewhat inconspicu-
ous club near May Rynek draws a similarly diverse crowd
of curi ous touri sts, eager students, ai ml ess ar ti sts,
hard-living hipsters and acknowledged alcoholics. Split
over two floors with plenty of seating, smoking areas,
a seasonal garden, two bars, and a separate room that
hosts frequent concerts and DJ parties, Rozrywki 3 has
wide appeal despite making little effort. The furnishings
attempt to be nothing more than functional and theres no
face control - getting out is a lot more di fficult than getting
in. One of the best places in the Old Town i f youre looking
for a long night full of spontaneous dancing, but actually
dislike nightclubs. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 05:00. PEXW
Shakers Krakw B-3, ul. Szewska 5 (first floor), tel.
(+48) 660 11 40 34. Actually the name references the
cocktail twisting bar staff, but there are still plenty of shim-
mying posteriors in here. Shakers is your classic Cracovian
cocktail club: just snooty enough for the concept to succeed,
but not so up its own...shaker that you wont have a great
time. DJ nights range from funk to electro, with the action
happening on an intimate dance floor between the bar and
posh toilets. Cocktails range from 14-30z and though the
list isnt that creative, the bartenders put on an impressive
juggling show. Maroon walls, black booths with gaudy gold
pillows that match the round gold tables and the ubiquitous
FTV make up the decor of this velvet rope affair. QOpen
20:00 - 04:00. Closed Wed. PAXW
Spoem C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421 79
79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekily borrowing their name
from a cooperative network of shops prolific across Poland
during communist times (many of which are still open),
Spoems underground cellars are cluttered with communist-
era appliances and plastered with propaganda posters and
discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia also applies
to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch Polish pop/disco
parties held in the back room where the DJ station is cleverly
tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the dance floor packed with
fun-loving revelers young enough to enjoy the irony. I guess
you can count us among them, because we had a great time.
QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Adult Entertainment
Gold Club B-2, ul. Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 510 74
50 64, www.goldclub.com.pl. I f youre in Krakw wi th
the lads, chances are good that youre going to end up
in one of the ci tys strip j oints and few can match Gol d
Club. This veteran skin showcase has al ways been one
of Krakws best and most trusted, and i ts move to a
new space in the Ol d Town onl y means you don t have
to pay cab fare to get there, or feel like youre trapped
once you do. Chances are youll be getting comfortabl e
rather qui ckl y wi th lap dances starting at 70z and large
beers for 15z. Groups are obvi ousl y catered to and
encouraged (they even suggest eroti c dance l essons
for hen parti es), and you can print a voucher of f their
websi te for 50% of f entry and your first drink. QOpen
19:00 - 05:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C- 2, ul. Floriaska
33 (entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12
426 26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a ti me
when Krakows gentl emens cl ubs were rel egated to
the outer l i mi ts and the grey areas of i ts urban gri d
( you know, Di etl a Street, around the trai n stati on).
Whether you vi ew thi s as a good or bad thi ng, Taboo
has been al l owed to set a new precedent by becomi ng
the most central l y l ocated stri p cl ub i n the Ol d Town.
Fi nd l eather couches to l ounge on al ongsi de l adi es i n
l i ngeri e, scul ptures of naked women hol di ng up gl ass
tabl etops to set your dri nk on and si x curtai ned VI P
rooms for pri vacy. Gone, i t woul d seem, are the days
when the kebab stand was the sauci est stop on a
Fl ori aska pub crawl and honestl y, coul d i t real l y be
Pol and wi thout Pol e danci ng? Al so now at ul. Szewska
21 (B-3). QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix-
ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry-
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to cut
the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since the
16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to
the primeval Biaowiea Forest that straddles the border
(a blade of which appears in each bottle), ubrwka is
faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown
hay and a subtle taste which has been described as
floral or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully
smooth as it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly
combined with apple juice a refreshing concoction
called a tatanka.
Polish Vodka
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Schindler's Factory (Podgrze Sightseeing)
This is an excellent museum, although it is of course
horribly grim. In the United States too many Americans
see the Nazi occupation as something that happened
to Polish Jews and not to Polish Catholics as well. This
museum depicts the whole vibrant city as a victim of
the Nazis, albeit far worse for the Jews. An unexpected
highlight of my trip to Poland. Cheers to the curators
for the deep archival research that went into creating
this experience.
Karin from Maryland, USA
Bar Grnik (Milk Bars)
I had a very nourishing breakfast of tripe soup, bread and
milky coffee for 7.15 zloty. I couldn't read the Polish so
chose from the dishes in the hot pans. It's a very basic
cafe type of place but I'd certainly go there again next
time I'm in Krakow. Ginny from Bristol, UK
Milkbar Tomasza (Breakfast)
We ate there once for breakfast (the spinach, poached
eggs & bacon recommended) and once for take-away
light dinner. It's a great little spot for breakfast which
isn't readily available in Krakow except at hotels for $20.
Great service, comfortable.
Sharon from Spokane, WA
Have Your Say
69
68
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
Eszeweria D-6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27.
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any
bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world antiques,
candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls
once played host to some of the citys most novel concerts,
however these days its more of a sleepy hang-out for hip
nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling off their
lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet drink
and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the restroom
may also be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a
queue) and they have a sister venue (Esze) across the street
if you cant find a table. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. BXW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Krakw - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Krakw at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUEBXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners
of a retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce
instantly established itself as Krakws hipster headquar-
ters. With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the
bar themselves, here youve put yourself at the centre of a
closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
thats the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original with a post-industrial artsy atmosphere that makes
a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
districts other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00
- 04:00. AUGBW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. In summer this is the most glorious beer
garden in Krakw, and right next to an easily recognisable
film set from Spielbergs Schindlers List. I f that parade
gets rained on, or you find yoursel f here during the dregs of
winter, take solace in the cross-street interior with its Old
World atmosphere of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky
portraits, wooden floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling
street-side windows (not to mention the enchanting bath-
room). A great place for a romantic evening conversation
or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what the whole of
Kazimierz was once about: taking things as they come.
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
04:00. AUGBW
Moment E-6, ul. Estery 22, tel. (+48) 668 03 40 00,
www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists, laptoppers
to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and seem to
know how to please them all. Somewhat retro with low,
loungy sofas in splashy fabrics, and a great menu of bargain
breakfasts, Italian appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of
entrees, Moment and similarly-styled not-distant neighbour
Nova Resto Bar (ul. Estery 18) have captured Kazimierz in
their time-stopping tractor beam (no surprise then that its
the same owners). In fact, Moments plethora of Plac Nowy
seating, evening drink specials and variety of inaccurate
vintage clocks lining the walls offer a handy excuse for miss-
ing your next day rendezvous with last nights club conquest.
Though this would certainly be an ideal place for it. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00. AGBW
Mostowa Art Cafe E-7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel. (+48)
519 75 40 55. This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/
bar is the linchpin in a raft of new venues that have turned
this quiet street between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian
bridge to Podgrze into one of the hippest places to hang out
these days. In warm weather the small interior of white walls
dressed in the underwhelming art canvases of the month
spills out onto the sidewalk as young people compete for a
place to pass the time drinking delicious microbrews and
homemade vodkas served out of a tiny fridge. Goes to show,
it doesnt take much, and whatever it is - this place has it. If
you dont know, now you know, hipster. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PAUGW
Omerta D- 6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.
pl. A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to
resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired Mafia
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign
or domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to
hedge up to and receive an impressive menu of almost
50+ ales broken down by category and even ranked for
you; discover the joy of miodowe (honey beer) among
others. Well-tempered locals create an ace atmosphere
and repeat visits are inevitable and encouraged. QOpen
16:00 - 03:00; Mon, Sun 16:00 - 24:00; Tue, Wed 16:00
- 02:00. UGW
Singer D- 6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22.
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for
all that was to come essentially inventing the evocative
aestheti c of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, ri ckety
antiques and candlelight associated with the district today.
Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
i t first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by
day, Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops
turn into dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks
to dip and spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy,
klezmer, cel tic and swing music, the entire bar begins
to feel like a ferris wheel ready to fly off its axis and the
boundaries of time are obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few
good ones here. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 -
06:00. PABXW
Staj ni a (The Stabl e)
D- 6, ul . Jzef a 12, tel .
(+48) 12 423 72 02,
www.pubstaj ni a.pl . Lo-
cated i n Kazi mi erzs most
phot ogeni c passageway
( i t pl ayed a st ar ri ng rol e
i n Spi el bergs Schindlers
List), thi s veteran estab-
l i shment of fers i dyl l i c out-
door seati ng i n the summer
and a somewhat pr i cey
menu of l ocal di shes. The
di m, rusti c i nteri or of ti m-
ber furni shi ngs features a
fi repl ace, equestri an ephemera and a creepy red gl ow
from the red hangi ng l anterns. Get a taste of l ocal
fl avour l ate ni ght when the musi c i s deafeni ng and,
l i ke Si nger, i t becomes a si l l y danci ng desti nati on for
ol der l ocal s and l ost I chabod Crane characters. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PGBW
When the steady revit-
alisation of Krakws
former Jewish district
began back i n t he
nineties, much of the
investment came from
business owners able
to purchase derel i ct
buildings, fill them with
the curbside detritus
pervading the area that
passes for furni ture,
add a liquor shelf and
presto! - open a dark,
di shevel l ed bar that
per f ect l y capt ur ed
the spirit of the neigh-
bourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafes choked with smoke,
candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under the
stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune with
a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the areas clean-
up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindlers List, brought
more and more tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz
went through a renaissance that saw it quickly develop into
the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-
block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even ousting the Old
Town per square metre, and though a trace of that original
charisma vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening,
there is no better place in Krakw for a night out. Kazimierzs
history makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the
districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of
the mystique it still carries today.
Kazimierz Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, the aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues of
the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day with
square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias murky
mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the ruddy
regulars and excitable tourists queuing before the indifferent
bar staff. The cellar, when its not being used as a student
disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in town and is
a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer festivals. And
now theyve added a new dining room (Alchemia od Kuchni)
where they serve a full menu of excellent eats until 22:00
and drunk food afterwards. Essential in every way. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00,
Sun 09:00 - 02:00. AEBXW
Artefakt Cafe E-6, ul. Dajwr 3, tel. (+48) 535 79
96 66, www.artefaktcafe.pl. This cult cafe/bar offers a
wide range of events and happenings that lure Krakws
hipsters and artists to its friendly confines like flypaper.
With two bars over two floors, the upstairs is your quintes-
sentially Kazimierz-cool hangout full of odd furnishings,
broken-spined books and a separate gallery space, while
the downstai rs is plastered wi th theatre posters and
features plenty of sofa seating to observe whats going
down on stage. While it seems theres always something
happening from concerts to chess tournaments to comedy
nights, even when theres not, youve still got a great atmo-
sphere, good people and Czech beers on draught. In warm
weather the good times often spill out onto the street aided
by the small garden, whose separate entrance is actually a
couple doors down. Recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00.
PAEXW
Kitsch D-4, ul. Dajwr 16, tel. (+48) 518 87 90 55,
www.kitsch.pl. Since the collapsing stairwell incident
(shhhh...), Krakws legendary and flamboyant Kitsch
dance club has moved its main base for base behaviour
and throbbing bass sounds to this surprisingly discreet
Kazimierz courtyard next to the Galicia Jewish Museum.
Hardly the meat-market madhouse its ul. Wielopole in-
carnation was, however, rather than a maze of clubs the
new Kitsch complex actually includes 5 distinct hangout
areas catering to all kinds, from hipsters to electro fiends
to queens. The small Domek bar is surprisingly laid-back
with chill music at levels that even allows for conversa-
tion, Caryca has been reincarnated for dance music
snobs with eclectic tastes, while Kitschs cellar club full
of graffiti art offers the all-night dance-floor brain dam-
age youd expect from the old place. We love it. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. PAUXW
Klub Pikny Pies D-6, ul. Boego Ciaa 9. The
Beautiful Dog is back with new digs in Kazimierz - a boho
district that better suits this cult drink tank for unwashed
artists, Dylan Thomas impersonators, cougar vampires,
counter-culture cuties and hard-living hipsters. The layout
of Pikny Pies 3.0 is conscientiously similar to its last
incarnation: though a bit more cramped in the front, the
back room - with its second bar, stage, DJ station and
dance floor - is a big improvement over the old space,
and of course chain-smoking is encouraged. Some great
concerts and DJs on the weekends, while the same great
playlist of classic rock, indie hits, post-punk and new wave
keeps the dancing spontaneous rather than obligatory
throughout the week. One of the best choices in Krakw
if you want a late night but not a nightclub, you can disre-
gard the hours because this place never closes. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEXW
Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, tel. (+48)
602 53 69 43, www.barliterki.pl. Down a strange
alleyway (which also leads to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) youll
find this eclectic club hidden in an old factory workshop.
Embracing the nature of the location, Literki is a huge
industrial space over two floors with a caged in balcony, a
small dance-floor/concert space with a thundering sound
system, dark lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the
club illuminate the drinks case) and some sharp iconic
graphic art on the walls depicting screws, gears and other
recognisable industrial garbage. With great Polish and
Czech microbrews behind the bar, this curious cult venue
is definitely worth the trek, but their events and parties
are so diverse we cant tell you what to expect; check
their webpage to find out the flavour of the day. QOpen
19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00, Sun 19:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. EXW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,
www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into
this most unpretentious of neighbourhoods. Carpeting,
illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings
round out this refreshingly one room affair where long-
legged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Kazimierzs other clubs,
Taawa succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict
facecheck and dress code. Q Open Fri, Sat only: 21:00
- 05:00. PAX
Kazimierz Clubs
71
HISTORY
70
HISTORY
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves that
there were settlements in the Krakw
area as early as the Palaeolithic pe-
riod, with stone tools found on Wawel
Hill dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the mythi-
cal ruler who vanquished the Wawel
Dragon. The mysterious earthwork
Mounds named after Krakus and
his daughter Wanda, located in the
Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts
respectively, were probably built in the 7th century. However,
historians date the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly
later in the 8th century, when it was the capital of a tribe of
pagan Slavs known as the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the
first written record of the citys name, Krakw had already grown
into a busy commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel-
oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed-
ish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputa-
tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to their
deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on January
18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industri-
alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2011 the city was visited by 8.6 million tourists.
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Li thuanian grand duke Jagi ell o creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav-
ing Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussi an army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
1942: Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to named European
Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to par-
ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Krakw cel ebrates the 750 anni versary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk,
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are con-
troversially buried in the Royal Crypts at Wawel
2012: PL successfully hosts the Euro 2012 football
tournament
Krakw Historical Timeline
One of the most fas-
ci nati ng tradi ti ons for
t our i st s and Cr aco-
vians is the hejna (pro-
nounced hey-now) a
short, mel odious bugl e
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south si des
of St. Mar y Basi l i cas
l eft tower (C-3).
Ergo the most fasci -
nat i ng and envi abl e
profession carri ed out
54m above t he ci t y
has to be that of the trumpeter who plays i t. Mi cha
Ko ton has been responsi bl e for the tradi tion since
2006 when he took over the rol e from his father,
Jan Ko ton, Senior Fire Marshall for the Krakw Fire
Brigade. Jan himsel f had been climbing the 239 steps
of St. Marys tower to carry out the tradi tion since
1971, keeping the hejna in the famil y after his own
fathers 35-year stint.
But the j ob is more than a source of pri de and fam-
il y heri tage. The seven firemen chosen to play are
on call for a 24-hour rotation then of f for 48 hours.
While on call, they must be alert every hour to ring the
church bell and play precisel y on the hour. The seven
trumpeters carry out their duty wi th great discipline,
as such a l ong-lasting tradi tion cannot be negl ected.
And what a tradi tion i t is. The most commonl y read
l egend tracing the hej na is that one morning in 1241
the Tartars invaded Krakw (as they al ways do). The
warning song was blared to arouse the slumbering
ci ty to arms. The man playing was shot in the neck,
thus abruptl y cutti ng of f the song i n mi d-mel ody.
To this day, the tune cuts of f in mi d-recapi tulation
symbolizing Krakws vigilance as well as commemo-
rating the l one ni ght guard who aroused the ci ty to
defence, thereby saving i t. However, Polish j ournalist
Leszek Mazan wrote in Polityka magazine that he
believes American j ournalist John M. Kell y fabricated
the l egend in 1929.
While li ttle to no documentation regarding the origins
of the song has been found, Mr. Ko ton and the other
players are certai n the songs story far precedes
John Kell ys wri ting as a fire warning for the ci ty. The
mel ody came from Hungary and was appropriatel y
used as a warning for fires or invasions as the word
hej na in Hungarian means wake up. Prior to the
15th centur y when the tower on St. Mar ys was
compl eted, this warning was sounded from the ci ty
walls, whi ch is most likel y where the l egendary trum-
peter was shot and kill ed. Whil e the histori cal birth
and devel opment of Krakws trademark remains a
mystery, any visi tor or Cracovian will surel y attest
that the hejnas li ving tradi tion defines and shapes
Krakw. In addi tion to pl easing visi tors abl e to wi t-
ness the bugl e call li ve from the church tower every
hour, the tune can also be heard all over Poland when
i t is broadcast li ve every day at noon on Jedynka
Radio, number 89.4 on the radio dial in Maopolska.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
72 73
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent cities
in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland not
to come out of World War II looking like a trampled Lego
set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on the en-
chanted city centre during 45 years of supervision, forced
to erect their gray communist Utopia in the outlying suburb
of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of the most
beautiful showpieces of Eastern Europe - a claim validated
by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever UNESCO
World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby Wieliczka
Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world. A city of
majestic architectural monuments, cobbled thoroughfares,
cultural treasures, timeless courtyards, priceless artworks
and legendary beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic
centre is the pride of Poland.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are
requisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day
- and have been given their own separate treatment with
accompanying cultural listings within this guide. Though one
could spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled
streets, courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old
Town and Kazimierz (weve attempted to make a life out of
it), dont hesitate to take a trip across the river into Podgrze
- arguably the citys most evocative and mysterious district;
the Jewish heritage trail also naturally leads here where the
worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played out and
Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor attrac-
tions, Kociuszko Mound. Within these pages youll also find
a section devoted to Nowa Huta, one of only two planned
socialist realist cities ever built. Designed to be the antithesis
of everything Krakws Old Town represents, both culturally
and aesthetically, the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are
only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area for a week
or more should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka,
Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnw, information about all
of which youll find here by reading on. However long your
stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide will
help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and
Maopolska.
OLD TOWN
ible altarpiece and stained glass. Its from atop the taller of
the two cathedral towers that a bugler plays an abbreviated
tune every hour on the hour - dont miss it. On the other side
of the square youll find the Town Hall Tower, with a viewing
platform at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar
in the former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystkich witych (C-4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C-4) with an Art Nouveau interior by Stanisaw
Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while directly before
you are three more incredible stained glass windows by
Krakws favourite son in a specially-made modern building.
Ulica Grodzka leads you past SS Peter & Pauls Church
(C-4) with its striking sculptures of the 12 disciples posed
before it. Cut across the small square to your right and youll
find yourself on one of Krakws most handsome streets,
ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul IIs former residence
is at numbers 19-21, which now house the Archdiocesan
Museum (C-5). Kanonicza lets out directly at the foot of
Wawel Castle (B/C-5), the citys defining landmark. A
source of great pride, patriotic and spiritual strength, Wawel
is worth spending half a day exploring, as well as the Wisa
riverbanks below.
Other Old Town highlights include the fabulous 20th century
art collection on the top floor of the main building of the
National Museum (H-3). The Old Town is also home to
the second oldest university in Central Europe. Jagielloian
Universitys Collegium Maius (B-3) is the schools oldest
building and was the studying place of Copernicus. Take
an hour out to see the incredible library and lecture hall,
as well as the oldest surviving globe in the world to depict
the Americas. Finally, anyone looking to do some bizarre
bargain hunting should head to one of Krakws catch-all
marketplaces, with Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and Hala Tar-
gowa (E-4) - especially during the latters Sunday morning
flea market - being bona fide cultural experiences in their
own right (see Shopping for more).
SIGHTSEEING
The Barbican. Photo: Pawe Krzan, krzan.pl,
krakow4u.pl
Grunwald Monument.
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with
the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of Polish
kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from the
14th century to the very end of the 16th century. Most of
the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route from the
Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less noble
lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train sta-
tion (E-1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from the
station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in
the green space that encircles the Old Town known as the
Planty (D-2). Ideal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was
once a series of medieval forti fications surrounded by a
moat. After Polands Third Partition in the late 18th century,
the order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph
I to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magni ficent Barbican and Floriaska Gate.
Walking the two blocks towards the Barbican, take note of
the Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A
marvellous Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a
bit difficult to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable
ticket to the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the
circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2) was added to the
citys defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D-2) that officially began the
Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and youre
on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind the
Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to notice
the architectural detail of the facades. On this street youll
find the Jan Matejko House and Museum, as well as the
underappreciated Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C-3),
you are now standing in the heart of Poland with your finger
on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually the Rynek
and Wawel may be the two most important sights in the
country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval market square
in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200 metres square and
functions as the citys social gravitation point. Lined with
cafes and restaurants, filled with people, pigeons, street
performers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a
place of festivals, concerts, parades and other events. At its
centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall or Sukiennice - a neo-
Gothic structure which has served as a market for merchants
since the Middle Ages, and whose history you can now learn in
the Rynek Underground museum housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery on
the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving Floriaska
is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral - one of the
most dazzling cathedrals in the country famed for its incred-
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.pl. Also at
ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:00 -
20:00). QOpen 07:45 - 19:45. Y
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. Offering
a wide range of tourist info and services, including a variety
of sightseeing tours of Krakw (on foot, by bike, by boat, by
electric car) and the region (including Auschwitz, Zakopane,
Wieliczka and more) for groups and individuals. Also at ul.
w. Jana 2 (C-3, open 08:00 - 20:00) and ul. Grodzka 28-30
(C-4, open 08:00 - 20:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda-
tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
60 91, www.it.jordan.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services
Centre C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12
426 50 60, www.mhk.pl. Tourist info, ticket sales
and gift shop for all 15 branches of the Krakw History
Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. From November open
10:00 - 19:00.
See Krakow C/D-2, ul. Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12
429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com. Also at ul. Grodzka
18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 19:00), ul. Grodzka 59 (C-5, open
09:00 - 18:00), Pl. Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, open
09:00 - 19:00) and the ul. Basztowa underpass (D-2,
open 09:00 - 19:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information
Wawel Hill.
St. Mary's Basilica as seen from the Cloth Hall.
Credit: Pawe Krzan, More beautiful photos of Krakw
available online at krzan.pl, krakow4u.pl
75
OLD TOWN
74
OLD TOWN
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika
Mariacka) C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5,
tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. After Tartar raids
in the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins, St. Marys
was rebuilt in Gothic style on the ex-
isting foundations and consecrated
in 1320. In the early 15th century
the towers took the iconic form they
have today, when the northern tower
was raised to 80m high and made into a watchtower for
the city. It is from here that the hejna mariacki - the citys
famous bugle call - is played every hour on the hour. One of
the citys most enduring traditions, the tune ironically breaks
off mid-melody in honour of the mythical trumpeter who was
shot in the neck while belatedly warning the city of Mongol
invaders; dont miss it.
No matter how many times you see them - the altarpiece,
stained glass windows of the nave, and the blue, starred ceil-
ing on St. Marys will take your breath away. The magnificent
wooden altarpiece was the principal work of 15th century
German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for 12 painstak-
ing years, and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the
apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings by
Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiaski done in
the later 19th century.
The church is available for worship without paying an entry
via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use a side en-
trance and not visit during services. Here we list the tourist
visiting hours. QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 15 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5z.
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour pack-
ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu. This
helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car tours
of Krakw, as well as airport transfers and excursions to
Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also at ul. Grodzka
28-30 (C-4, open 08:00 - 20:00) and ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3,
open 08:00 - 20:00). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Free Walking Tours, tel. (+48) 513 87 58 14,
www.freewalkingtour.com. As advertised: why pay for
what you can get free? This outfit of young tour guides of-
fers free walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00
and 15:30. Free English language tours of Kazimierz are
every day at 11:00 and 15:00. All tours leave from in front
of St. Marys Basilica on the market square (look for the
Free Walking Tours sign). But thats not all: check their
website for what else they offer, including free macabre
tours, free bike tours, and paid tours of Nowa Huta
(reservation required) and the former Jewish Ghetto. All
tours are by professional licenced tour guides, so you
should have some cash ready to tip these fine people.
SeeKrakow Guided Tours C-3, ul. Floriaska 6,
tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.com.
The whole gamut of travel services plus the usual tours
around the city and beyond. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Guided Tours Churches
Theres hardly a resident of Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While the number of churches,
cathedrals and monasteries in the city is almost endless,
weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra i
Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65,
www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit Church was
built in the early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national
pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and culture
(Sawomir Mroek was the first interred here in September
2013). The twelve disciples standing on the gates outside are
the churchs most striking feature, although the interior has been
extensively renovated and the airy, austere grandeur of this late
Renaissance building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m
Foucault Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon
Foucault in 1851 which proves the earths rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at 10:00,
11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be sure. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon.
St. Adalberts (Koci w. Wojciecha) C-3, Rynek
Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52, www.kosciolwojciecha.
pl. Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at the
southeast corner of the Cloth Hall - a mad mix of pre-Roman,
Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The
earliest parts of the building date to the 11th century, thus pre-
dating the Rynek and explaining its seemingly random position
within it. St. Adalbert (Wojciech in Polish) had his own cult fol-
lowing at the time, which explains how it managed to survive. A
look inside is well worth it, not least because the floor sits some
two metres below the surface of the main square, but note that
the church will be closed until November. Church services
and daily concerts of the Royal Chamber Orchestra have been
moved to the churchs small chapel until then. QOpen 09:00 -
18:00, Sun 13:30 - 18:00. Open from November.
St. Andrews (Koci w. Andrzeja) C-4, ul. Grodzka
54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. St. Andrews offers the finest
example of Romanesque architecture in Krakw. Built between
1079 and 1098, it has been a place of worship for 900 years
and was used as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions.
Most of the relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a
bit of a letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during
the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style. Q Open
06:45 - 18:30. No visiting during mass please.
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53
76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Krakws most colourful
church, and our personal favourite, thanks to the gorgeous
Art Nouveau interiors by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski,
which nicely balance the organic and geometric with unique
floral patterns. Wyspiaski also made the eight stained-glass
windows around 1895, including the controversial and iconic
centrepiece, God the Father in the Act of Creation. Dating
back to the 13th century, St. Francis Basilica was the first
brick building in the city and is well worth popping in, even for
those who could care less for looking at another church. Q
Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 15:00. Every 2nd Sunday
of the month open 13:30 - 14:30 only. No visiting during
mass please.
Barbi can D- 2, ul .
Basztowa, tel. (+48)
12 619 23 20, www.
mhk.pl. The showpiece
of the ci tys medi eval
defences, the Barbican
was bui l t at the end
of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main
entrance and was con-
nected to the Floriaska
Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that surrounded it.
24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3 metres thick this
masterpiece of medieval military engineering proved
impenetrable and today stands as one of the onl y
surviving structures of its kind in Europe; certainly the
most well-preserved. Built in Gothic style, the Krakw
Barbican is topped by seven turrets and includes 130
defensive slots used by archers and riflemen. Today the
Barbican is used for various special events (medieval
pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as an
outdoor museum between the months of April and
October, where youll learn the history of Krakws
defensi ve wal l s. As the basti on i s al most al ways
empty, it makes a fantastic place for a game of tag or
an outpost for spying on passersby, however beware
the gruesome sight of pigeons who have inadvertently
lynched themselves in the netting meant to keep them
out of the turrets. We guarantee youll see at least three.
QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed from November. Admis-
sion 8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes admission
to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
Barbican
Sowacki Theatre
(Teatr im. Juliusza
Sowackiego) D-2,
Pl. w. Ducha 1, tel.
(+48) 12 424 45
25, www.slowacki.
krakow.pl. Regarded
today as an architec-
tural masterpiece, the
Sowacki Theatre came
under fi erce cri ticism
when construction began due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for
it - an act that drew the ire of local cultural bigwigs like
Jan Matejko. Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled
his design for the theatre on the Paris Opera and the
structure is distinguished for its elaborate facade which
is decorated with allegorical figures. Sadly, the interior is
usually off limits to the public unless there is a produc-
tion on; a pleading look is usually enough to get past this
obstacle. The foyer and marble staircase are supreme
examples of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain
is itself worth the James Bond deviousness needed to
sneak in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features
beautiful paintings representing drama, comedy, music
and dance. Polands first cinema show was held here in
1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided tours
can be arranged by phone for 130z (up to 40 people),
but are only available in Polish at this time.
Sowacki Theatre
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77
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Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the oc-
cupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country!
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Er os Bendato (Er os
Bo u n d) B - 3, Ry n e k
Gwny. Among Krakws
most well-known landmarks,
this sculpture in the western
corner of the market square
is a popular meeting place
and at some poi nt ser ves
as a photographic backdrop
for almost every tourist who
visits the city. Affectionately
referred to as The Head, the bronze body parts official title
is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist
Igor Mitoraj. A student of Tadeusz Kantors at the Krakw
School of Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs monumental
works dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004,
during which the artist gifted this work to the city, sparking
controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture
was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from historians
and many locals, the sculpture eventually found its current
place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has become an un-
expected tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen
crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads and
limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping parents,
though winter too often finds it profaned with trash and
foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitorajs work will find another
of his large sculptures - titled Luci di Nara - adorning the
charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum (ul. Grodzka 53,
C-4), and another in front of the Krakw Opera building (ul.
Lubicz 48, E-2).
Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1, Pl.
Matejki. The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint
armies of Poland and Lithuania against the Teutonic Knights
on July 15, 1410, is considered to be one of the greatest
battles ever to take place in medieval Europe. A defining
moment in Polish history, the battle was immortalised in
Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty monument in front
of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary
of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis (1877-1919) original
masterpiece was, not surprisingly, destroyed by the occupy-
ing Nazis during WWII and the copy that now stands in its
place dates from 1976, having been faithfully reproduced
using sketches and models of the original. At the top on his
horse is the King of Poland Wadysaw Jagieo, his sword
pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin
the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on
either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army. The
dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic
Orders Grand Master, who lost his life during the battle.
Anosmia/www.flickr.com/
CC BY 2.0
Main Market Square
(Rynek Gwny) C-3.
Krakws mai n market
square (Rynek) ser ves
as the citys gravitational
centre, and is the natural
start and finish point for
any tour of the city. Origi-
nal l y desi gned i n 1257
- the year Krakw was
awarded i ts char ter
the grid-like layout of the
Old Town and its central
square has changed little in the years that have fol-
lowed. Measuring 200 metres square, the Rynek ranks
as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and
is surrounded by elegant townhouses, all with their
own unique names, histories and curiosities. Through
the centuries it was in Krakws Rynek that homage to
the king was sworn and public executions held. Most
famously it was here that Tadeusz Kociuszko roused the
locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794. The Rynek
has always been the natural stage for public celebra-
tions, with everything from parades of sausage dogs
to Christmas crib competitions taking place. Not all the
events have had been happy affairs however, and back
in the 17th century King Jan Sobieski III was privy to a
firework display which ended in bloodshed when some
of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd.
More recently the market square was subjected to a Nazi
rally attended by Der Fhrer himself when the squares
name was changed to Adolf Hitler Platz during German
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long
and today the Rynek occupies itself by hosting annual
Christmas and Easter markets, as well as numerous
festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built
in the 14th century this huge hall was effectively the first
shopping mall in the world. To this day it is still crammed
with merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and
assorted tourist tat. In 2010, Rynek Underground (see
our box) - a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing the history
of the Cloth Hall, and that of the entire city - opened un-
derneath it, while the second floor hosts the underrated
19th Century Polish Art Gallery.
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. From April to November, visitors can ascend
up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted rooms which
contain, amongst other things, 1960s photographs
of Krakw and look out on the square below from the
viewing point.
Main Market Square
Museums
Krakw is packed with more museums than any other city
in Poland, and the last several years have seen literally
dozens of new openings and reopenings. Recent invest-
ments have improved the quality of the citys museums
immensely, most of which have been modernised and many
of which feature multimedia exhibits that will even keep the
kids engaged. There is no better place to learn about Polish
history, culture and character than Krakws museums,
some of which should be on every tourist itinerary. Note
that all branches of the National Museum are free on
Sundays. The museums listed here are in the Old Town,
while Kazimierz and Podgrze museums are listed in their
respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art
Gallery C- 3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48)
12 433 54 00, www.muze-
um.krakow.pl. Open again
after a lengthy closure, this
magni ficent and historic exhi-
bi ti on i nsi de the Cl oth Hal l
covers Polish art from in and
around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture
and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the
col l ecti on i s refreshi ngl y
small, giving proper attention
to each piece, some of which are enormous and all of which
are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest for their status
as national treasures are the Italian-born, Polish-resident
Marceli Bacciarellis Portrait of Stanisaw August Ponia-
towski in Coronation Dress from around 1790 and, a
century on, Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous Frenzy from
1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldnt be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malcze-
wski, Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz. One of
the perks of a visit is access to the magni ficent balcony
overlooking the market square. Recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z,
family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z. Sun free for permanent
exhibitions.
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeolog-
iczne) B- 4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71
00, www.ma.krakow.pl. Though fresh from a recent
boost of cash, Krakws Archaeology Museum may still
seem out-dated and underwhel mi ng to many visi tors,
particularly in comparison to Krakws other museums
(mostly excellent) and natural history museums they may
have visited elsewhere. Nonetheless, it has improved. In
addition to the famous Zbruch Idol (see our box), regional
Stone Age artefacts and a charming room dedicated to
local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the
museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts from
ancient Egypt including some beauti ful shrouds, a number
of intricately decorated sarcophagi and some mummi fied
cats. The latter exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of
an audio guide, available for an extra charge. Housed in
an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the Archaeology
Museum may be its beauti ful garden (1z charge i f you
arent visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with
fantastic views of Wawel in the distance. QOpen 09:00 -
15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Audioguide 5z. Y
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Archdi ocesan Museum of Cardi nal Karol
Wojtya (Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa
Karola Wojty y) C- 5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel.
(+48) 12 421 89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl.
John Paul II lived here - twice. Once as Karol Woj tya, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his Head skis
are on show) and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent
rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-
presented showcase of beauti ful sacral art, some dating
back to the 13th century. Among the items on display, you
will find presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All
very nice, but the exhibition will only hold the attention
of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be
tail ed by over-zeal ous curators. Personal guided tours
available or for groups up to 25 people in French, English
and Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket 12z. Guided
tours 60z.
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa
Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48)
12 433 59 20, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This earl y
14th century palace holds two permanent exhibitions of
the National Museum, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to
18th Centuries and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
As you could have guessed, both exhibits consist entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of art was applied to
non-reli gi ous subj ect matter (how many centuri es di d
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Krakws own
churches or others in the region, and most of it is admittedly
superb, i f thats your thing. I f its not, its a bit of a snooze-
fest. The highlight is without doubt the strange 16th century
Christ Riding a Donkey, a near li fe-size wooden sculpture of
everyones favourite model doing just that with vacant eyes
and the mule atop a wagon. Eerily beauti ful. Also of note
is the wooden Madonna from Krulowa which dates from
around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z. Sun
free for permanent exhibitions.
City Defensive Walls (Mury Obronne) D-2, ul.
Pijarska, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 20, www.mhk.pl. This
small museum is in turns uninformative and overly infor-
mative, but basically it gives you a chance to climb around
whats left of Krakws 13th century defensive walls. Pass
a few silly mannequins in medieval dress en route to a film
with fantastic virtual recreations of ancient Krakw (in
Polish only), before walking the length of wall between two
towers and getting a description of the other 40-odd tow-
ers demolished by the Austrians in the 18th century. Enjoy
views and great photo opportunities over Floriaska street,
but generally a visit to the Barbican (see Old Town Places
of Interest) is more interesting and informative. Tickets are
valid for 7 days and include entry to the Barbican as well. Q
Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed from November. Admission
8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes admission to the
nearby Barbican.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Mu-
seum) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. The universitys oldest building
(and one of the oldest in Krakw), Collegium Maius was built
as the universitys main campus in the late 14th century,
36 years after the universitys founding. A century later it
was redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding
the picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to
this day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was
in the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus
made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the 1490s.
Cloth Hall (Suki -
ennice) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 1/3, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl.
The iconic glory-piece at
the centre of Krakws
market square, there
is proof that a struc-
ture of some sort has
existed on the site of the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) since
the mid-13th century. Originally resembling two rows of
stone trading stalls with a thoroughfare running between
them, a roof was erected over them around 1300 before
King Kazimierz the Great approved the construction of
a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century. As
a result, Krakws importance as an east-west trading
post increased; though the name Sukiennice refers
specifically to the trade of textiles and fabrics, Krakws
Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities bought and sold in
its merchant stalls including wax, spices, leather and silk,
as well as lead and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines.
After a fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th cen-
tury, the Sukiennice underwent a Renaissance facelift
overseen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring
brilliantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculp-
tor Santi Gucci on the faade. At this time the Cloth Hall
was probably the most magni ficent building in all of
Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however, Poland had been
partitioned for nearly a century and the Cloth Hall was in
a rather decrepit state. Between 1875-79, while the city
was part of Austro-Hungarian-controlled Galicia, many
of the outbuildings were torn down and the neo-Gothic
colonnades and outside arcades were added by Tomasz
Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko. The interior was
converted into a series of wooden stalls and on October
7th, 1879 the Krakw City Council voted to give half of
the upper floor of the Cloth Hall over to the creation of
the first Polish National Museum. It quickly became the
focal point for a huge celebration of Polish patriotism
attracting Poles from all three partitions as well as those
from self-imposed exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the build-
ing with the most significant work being carried out in
the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior
was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however,
the building, particularly the display areas inside, was in
poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a 21st
century museum or shopping area. Beginning in August
2006 and lasting over 4 years, the building was given a
complete re-modelling with lifts, air-conditioning and new
natural and artificial lighting installed. Where once were
sloped attics, you will now find lovely terraces overlook-
ing the square below and St. Marys Basilica opposite.
To take advantage of them and the adjacent Cafe Sza
(see Cafes), visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(see Museums, and keep in mind you dont need to pay
admission to visit the cafe). Having visited the Art Gallery
or the Rynek Underground museum take a break by
visiting the Noworolski Cafe for coffee (see Cafes) and
round it off by picking up a souvenir in the arcade within
the Cloth Hall, where youll find all sorts of handicrafts,
amber and other local products at surprisingly reason-
able prices. And youll have the experience of shopping in
what is basically a 700-year old shopping mall.
The Cloth Hall
Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
mhk.pl. Opened in a blaze of publicity in September
2010, this hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visi-
tors four metres under the surface of the market square
to explore the recently excavated medieval merchant
stalls that predate todays Cloth Hall, and to experience
the citys entire history - from its first settlers right up to
the death of Pope John Paul II - over the course of some
6,000 metres of multimedia exhibits. Because of the
museums popularity, and the fact that it is limited to only
300 people at a time, timed tickets should be bought
in advance of when you want to visit to avoid long queues
or the disappointment of no ticket availability. This can be
done either online or from the information office confus-
ingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall from
the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance is
located on the side opposite St. Marys Basilica, of course,
and once youve negotiated the scrum of getting inside
your experience begins with a short film projected on a
wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly remarkable
exhibits displayed in what is essentially an archaeological
site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and holograms,
highlights include a fascinating look into life before Krakw
received its charter and the market square was laid out,
displays on trade and transport in the city, and the remains
of an 11th-century cemetery. Those more comfortable in
traditional museums will be pleased to know there are still
plenty of artefacts among the virtual exhibits, including the
usual array of coins, clothing and other earthly remains.
Dont miss the series of short, subtitled documentaries
covering different ages of Krakows history to your right
before you reach the end of the underground circuit and
its inevitable caf and souvenir shops. In addition to the
multi-lingual displays, audio guides are available in English,
German, French, Russian, Italian and Spanish. Q Open
10:00 - 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Ev-
ery first Tue closed. From November open 10:00 - 20:00,
Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Every first Tue closed. Last entrance 75
minutes before closing. Admission 19/16z, family ticket
38 z, Tue free. Audioguide 5z (ID must be left in order to
take an audioguide).
Rynek Underground
Stanisaw Kosin
Stanisaw Kosin
Today a museum, visitors can take a 45-minute guided tour
of the museum in English which includes the lecture halls,
common rooms, professors quarters, library and treasury.
Along the way youll see some fabulous interiors, paintings,
furniture, medieval scienti fic instruments, rectors maces
and other university memorabilia, as well as the oldest
surviving globe to depict the Americas. Tours take place
Mon - Fri at 13:00, and you should call or visit in advance
to reserve yoursel f a place. I f not, dont fret; shorter, more
basic English- language tours (omitting the gallery and
scienti fic instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 min-
utes throughout the day (though were informed its wise
to arrange these beforehand as well). Recently a separate
interactive exhibit about mathematics titled Everything...
is a number (Wszystko...jest liczb) has opened (open
09:00 - 13:30; closed Sun. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 7/5z). The buildings courtyard also
houses a gi ft shop and cafe, and dont miss the beauti-
ful Professors Garden just next door (accessible via a
beauti ful painted passageway). Q Open 10:00 - 15:00;
Tue, Thu 10:00 - 18:00. Cl osed Sun. From November
open 10:00 - 15:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Last
entrance 40 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z for
permanent exhibit, 16/12z for entire museum (including
gallery and scienti fic instruments) or tour. Admission free
for sel f-guided tours on Tuesdays from 15:00 - 18:00 in
October, 14:00 - 16:00 in November.
NEW
Europeum Centre for European Culture (Orodek
Kultury Europejskiej Europeum) A-3, Pl. Sikor-
skiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57 60, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl/Europeum.1482.0.html. Located in a 17th
century granary on formerly-forgotten Sikorski Square, this
new branch of the National Museum was opened as recently
as September 13th, 2013 and houses the citys large col-
lection of European painting and sculpture, in addition to
hosting lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lo-
renzo Lottos 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the
consensus most-valuable foreign work in the possession
of Krakws National Museum, other highlights include John
the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, The
Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano and other early Renaissance
Italian paintings. While were happy to see this collection
find a permanent home, those who have seen their share
of European art museums can probably justify skipping it.
Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Sun free for
permanent exhibitions. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z.
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Gallery of Ancient Art (Arsena - Galeria Sztuki
Staroytnej) C-2, ul. Pijarska 8, tel. (+48) 12 422
55 66, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This small branch of
the National Museum is also a satellite of the Czartoryski
Museum across the street, and brings together three unique
collections of ancient art amassed abroad during the 19th
and 20th centuries by the Czartoryski family, the Potocki
family of Krzeszowice and the Krakw National Museum.
On display are artefacts primaril y from ancient Egypt,
Greece and Rome dating from between 3000 BC to the
7th century AD, with highlights including marble sculptures,
Egyptian sarcophagi and animal mummies. Its amazing that
these items found their way to Krakw and they provide an
interesting look at the material culture of the ancient world,
but are hardly required viewing for those without a special
interest in antiquity. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4z, familly ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent
exhibitions.
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C- 3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The
Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine build-
ing around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th
centuries, although the building dates back considerably
further than that. The inside has been transformed into a
series of recreations of typical Polish bourgeois living spaces
from the 17th to early 20th century, and is interesting for
the insights it gives into how the other half lived as well as
being a showcase for some truly remarkable furniture and
antiques. Worth a visit. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon,
Tue. From November open 10:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z. Wed free.
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum
Historii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego)
H-1, ul. Jzefitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.
mhf.krakow.pl. Allegedly Polands only museum dedicated
exclusively to photography, this modest museum tracks the
development of the art form over several cupboard-size
rooms, including changing photographic exhibitions, an old
darkroom, heaps of ancient cameras and a nice collection of
historical images of Krakw. Theres plenty here to fascinate
shutterbugs, but if your primary camera is your cellphone, you
may not deem it worth the journey. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue, except for groups
(3 person minimum) who arrange at least 7 days in advance.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5z,
Sun free. Y
Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410 07 70, www.
muzeum-ak.pl. This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick
railway building has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass
atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - documenting
the size, organisation and efforts of Polands underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official
disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing fight for
freedom within the countrys two occupied zones (Nazi and
Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged aspects
and this fantastic museum goes to great length to demon-
strate that Polands government, military and civilian popula-
tion never surrendered in the fight for freedom. After a decade
of collecting historical documents, artefacts and information
from Home Army veterans, this museum opened to the public
in September 2012 and is a must-visit for anyone interested
in WWII history. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance one hour before closing. Admission 13/7z. Sun
permanent exhibit free. Y
Hutten-Czapski Museum
(Muzeum Hutten-Czap-
skiego) A-3, ul. Pisudskiego
12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58
40, www.muzeum.krakow.
pl. Located in a 19th century
neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Krakw, this new
branch of the Krakw National Museum houses a comprehensive
collection of Polish numismatics - that is, antique Polish coins,
banknotes and medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski,
who once owned the place, also includes old books, manuscripts,
maps and other national memorabilia from the medieval period
to today. As weve come to expect, the displays are gorgeous
and additional info (in Polish and English) about each artefact is
conveyed via touchscreen computers. The palace and gardens
themselves have been stunningly restored, and are guarded by
a fantastic gargoyle out front, but nonetheless this one should
probably be reserved for die hard Polish patriots with a fascina-
tion for coin collecting. Is that you? QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 18z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 60, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical painter
whose work and life is honoured in the house where he was born,
lived and would eventually die in the 1890s. As well as some
witty imaginings of Krakw medieval life, studies for gargoyles
and collections of Renaissance furniture and antique guns and
ammo, the minutiae of Matejkos life is preserved, right down to
his eyeglasses in this recently renovated museum. A fascinating
tribute to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts.
Those with a special interest in Matejko may want to visit his
workshop and manor house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta
Museums), and the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery where many
of his greatest works are displayed. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z, audioguide 5z. Sun
free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehoffer House (Dom Jzefa Mehoffera) A-2,
ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 19th centurys
artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating with
Wyspiaski on the interiors of numerous Krakw churches and
important buildings. This, his house, was where the artists of
the Moda Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and
is a delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco to
impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs and finished
stained glass pieces that attest to his important artistic legacy.
In warmer months you wont find a more magical place to relax
and read a book than the hidden garden behind the house,
presided over by Meho Cafe & Bistro - one of the citys best-
kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/4z, family ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl. The Museum of Japanese Art &
Technology houses the National Museums Japanese artefacts,
consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieskis fabulous
6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, antiques, porcelain,
incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings and comical woodprints.
The modern building was created by legendary Polish film director
Andrzej Wajda, a native of Krakw who saw the private collection
of Feliks Jasieski exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto
city prize in 1987, Wajda donated the $340,000 grant for the
construction of the museum. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 25z, group ticket 60z (up
to 30people), Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
Carriage Rides C-3, Rynek Gwny. If youre wondering
about the ever-popular antique horse-drawn carriages
that line the market square, these handsome vehicles are
available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing trot around town.
Operated by a number of different companies, routes and
prices are individually determined with the driver but the go-
ing rate starts from 100z, the most popular route from the
market square to Wawel Hill is generally 170z (30mins), and
you can expect to pay about 350z if you carry on to Kazimierz.
Most carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in your party
has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately the drivers dont
disseminate any information about what youre seeing along
the way (see, you might need this guidebook after all); that
bright idea hasnt occurred to anyone yet. Still, its every girls
dream to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared.
And dont forget to ask the driver to take your picture; its
the least they can do for the money. Q Carriage rides are
generally available every day 10:00 - 22:00, rain or shine.
Carriage Rides
Undamaged by the Nazi cyclone, Krakws Old Town
remains in its original form, and as such represents
a breathing history lesson. With a past that stretches
back several centuries its not hard to unsuspectingly
find yoursel f doing your boozing and dining inside a
part of history.
Ha n d s d o wn t h e mo s t
famous restaurant in town is
Wierzynek (Rynek Gwny 16)
whose opening in 1364 was
attended by five kings and nine
princes. The occasion of the
gathering was to stop Europe
from going to war, though by all
accounts the banquet turned
into a 21 day feasting and binge drinking marathon. The
restaurant has been drawing big names ever since, with
Spielberg, Castro and Daddy Bush being a only a few.
Drink in more modern history in the Noworolski Caf
(Rynek Gwny 1, see Cafes). This is the spot where Lenin
would entertain both his wife and his mistress, while the
art nouveau paintings are the work of Jozef Mehoffer,
who has his own museum at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2).
Jama Michalika (ul. Floriaska 45, see Cafes) was not
only the favoured meeting point of all the artsy types in
the Moda Polska art movement, but also the home of
Polands first cabaret, The Green Balloon. The opening
night was so nerve racking for the compere he got blind
drunk before swearing at the audience and falling off
the stage. Thats show business, and the success of
the cabaret was guaranteed from thereon.
Dishing Up History
83
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WAWEL
Szoayski House, and presents a new exhibition entitled For-
ever Young! Poland and its art around 1900. Focussing on
Polands secessionist Moda Polska movement and Krakws
role as its nexus, visitors will still see plenty of Krakws golden
boy Stanisaw Wyspiaski - including some wonderful pastel
sketches and his most iconic self-portrait - as well as satirical
works associated with the legendary Green Balloon Cabaret
and other noteworthy Polish Art Nouveau paintings. A new
permanent exhibit on the ground floor honours Krakws Grand
Dame of poetry Wisawa Szymborska by exhibiting articles
collected from her apartment after her passing in 2012. Of
definite interest to Wyspiaski lovers and general fans of
the period, it may not be required visiting, but high marks for
presentation, a manageable visitation time of one hour and a
central location just off the market square make this an easy
and enjoyable item to cross off your sightseeing checklist.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/5z, family
ticket 18z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Town Hall Tower (Wiea Ratusza) C-3, Rynek
Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 18, www.mhk.pl. The only
element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining after many
fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions, is this 70m-high
tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth Hall. Ascend your way
through the Gothic vaulted rooms to the observation deck for
great views of the Rynek, and on your way take a look at the
photography exhibition of Krakw during the 1960s. Outside
the tower you will also find a metal model of the old Town Hall
as it looked in the 18th century and which is part of a series
made specially by the local authorities to allow the blind to
visualise the city. Q Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed from No-
vember. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul. Po-
morska 2, tel. (+48) 12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Consisting
of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska offers the most chilling
museum experience in Krakw (which is saying something).
Located in the Dom lski, or Silesian House, this infamous
building became the Krakw headquarters of the Gestapo
during WWII, who converted its cellars into detention cells for
the interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These cells
have been preserved and are free and open to the public as the
Former Gestapo Cells - immediately to your right as you enter
the courtyard. Though the attendant will encourage you to enter
straight away, we recommend you begin with the buildings main
exhibit People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-
1956, entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard.
This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors chronologically
through the citys not-so-distant past, illustrating the terror and
tyranny of both the Nazi and Stalinist regimes in Krakw through
an abundance of documents, photographs, audio recordings and
other archival materials. From the first victims executed by the
Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid-50s, the stories of
individual citizens and their varying experiences and reactions to
both regimes is revealed in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation of this
history is affecting enough, the immediacy of the Gestapo cells
is truly haunting. An unimaginable 600 inscriptions scratched into
the walls by prisoners awaiting their fate remain intact and provide
a shocking, sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of
hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you might
expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so prepare yourself
for the blunt force trauma of human tragedy. A worthwhile and
memorable experience, reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting.
Ulica Pomorska is a 20 minute walk from market square, near
the tram stop Plac Inwalidw. Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed
Mon. From November open 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 12:00 - 19:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/5z, family
ticket 14z, Tue free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of the British Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predomi-
nantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture
dating from around the 14th century onwards, Wawel is the
crown jewel of Krakws architectural treasures and required
visiting for Poles and foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls that cant fail to
inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of which
the former contains most, but by no means all of the exhibi-
tions, Wawels must-see highlights include the Cathedrals
mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse of Polands very
own crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permi tting, a leisurel y stroll around i ts courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open to
the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which is hard
work but comes with its own rewards, can take an entire day.
Castle
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Wawels
prominence as a centre of political power predates the build-
ing of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence
shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle
before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose
Wawel as one of his official residences. The first Polish king
crowned in Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Wadysaw the
Short (1306-1333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradi-
tion that would see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there
up until the 17th century. All of these rulers used the Castle
as a residence, and all of them added their own architectural
details to the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in
1596 and Polands subsequent decline and partitioning saw
the Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying
Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so far as
to demolish several buildings including a number of churches
on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle change hands
on a number of occasions, with the huge ongoing renovation
works that continue to this day being halted for a number of
reasons, most famously when the Castle was used as the
headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans Frank, during
the German occupation of WWII. Todays Castle complex is a
beguiling muddle of styles including Medieval, Romanesque,
Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with
its delightful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece,
and the treasures contained within do much to contribute to
Krakws rightful status as a truly world-class city.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia). Containing Polands very own equivalent
of the Crown Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown
Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the
world of the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To
the left, the Crown Treasury features several glass cases
of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other
marvels, of which Szczerbiec - the countrys original corona-
tion sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
From November open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Last entrance 1 hour 15minutes before closing. Admission
18/11z. Mon free. From November Admission 16/9z. Check
ticket office for details and ticket availability.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony). This smartly conceived
and executed exhibit presents the remaining fragments of me-
dieval Wawel, including remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin
Mary (Krakws first church). A computer generated model of
Wawel gives visitors a peek into the early 10th century con-
struction. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. From November open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before clos-
ing. Admission 10/7z. Mon free. From November Admission
8/5z. Sun free. Check ticket office for details and for tickets.
Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu). This exhibit in the
western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near
East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the
Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade
contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Here
visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and
Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes
it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other
artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs famous
victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including
Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras sabre. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. Last
entrance 1 hour 15 minutes before closing. From November
open Tue-Sat with admissions at 11:00 and 14:00; closed
Sun, Mon. Admission 8/5z; from November 7/4z.
??
pl.wikipedia.org, author KHRoN
Polish Aviation Muse-
um (Muzeum Lotnic-
twa Polskiego) Al. Jana
Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel.
(+48) 12 642 87 00, www.
muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Lo-
cated on one of the oldest
military airfields in Europe,
this oft-overlooked, but highly
regarded museum holds a premier collection of aircraft,
artefacts and exhibits related not only to Polish, but the
world aviation history and heritage. Following a massive
46 million zoty investment, the museum is home to a
new four-storey exhibition building bursting with hi-tech
goodies, a cinema, an interactive space for children,
library, museum shop and extensive collection of planes,
including a marvellous 1909 Blriot XI and a Polish-built
RWD from the 1930s. The original exhibits in the airfields
numerous hangars and out-buildings still remain stuffed
with old photographs, engines, uniforms and plenty more
airplanes, helicopters, gliders, while the yards surrounding
them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from the
days of the Warsaw Pact. While its disappointing that
many of the displays are in Polish only, this is still a great
outing (Dads love it) that can take the better part of a day
to explore thoroughly. Northeast of the Old Town mid-way
to Nowa Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, or 10 -or- bus
numbers 124 or 424, getting off at the Wieczysta stop. A
taxi should cost about 25z each way. Recommended. Q
Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Note that opening hours
may change in November. Admission 14/7z, Tue free. Y
Out of Centre
National Museum, Main Building (Gmach Gwny
Muzeum Narodowego w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja
1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Far
from being the shoeless peasants many cynical historians would
have us believe, previous generations of Poles have in actual
fact excelled in the arts. The superb National Museum of Art in
Krakw showcases many such examples of their work. As well
as a number of world-class temporary shows, the museum also
houses fine collections of Polish applied arts and weaponry and
gives its entire top floor over to the permanent 20th-century
Polish Art exhibition - a truly awesome collection showcasing
the works of such visionaries as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Wit-
kacy that any gallery would be more than proud of owning. The
museum also houses a small shop and TriBeCa caf. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket
19z, audioguide 5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, ul.
Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.muzeum-
farmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building,
Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out on several floors
and includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions
of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars
and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal
medicines. Also of interest is the small exhibit dedicated to the
extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Q Open
10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance
45 minutes before closing. Admission 9/6z.
Szoayski House (Kamienica Szoayskich) B-2, Pl.
Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Formerly the citys Wyspiaski Museum, this
branch of the National Museum has been re-christened the
Varga Attila/Wikipedia/
CC BY-SA 3.0
84 85
WAWEL WAWEL
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Aparta-
menty Krlewskie). Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did
their entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly
go on forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate
16th-century Flemish tapestries, some truly extraordinary
wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird Room. Hi ghli ghts
include the eerie Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden
representations of former Krakw residents heads on the
coffered ceiling and an original throne that really brings the
majesty of Polands past to life. The Royal Private Apartments
are, as one would expect, stunning. Packed with delightful
Gothic and Renaissance details, rooms include the wonderful
Guest Bedroom, complete with original Renaissance larch
wood ceiling, and the charmingly named Hens Foot - two
small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower. What
these rooms were originally used for is anyones guess, but
the view from the windows is well worth the visit. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
From November open 09:30 - 16:00; State Rooms open
Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon; Royal Apartments closed
Sun, Mon. Admission to State Rooms 18/11z. Royal Apart-
ments 25/19z (guide included). From November admission
to State Rooms 16/9z. Royal Apartments 21/16z (guide
included).
Cathedral
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. The scene of the
crowning of almost every Polish king and queen throughout
history, the current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built
on the site. The first cathedral was built of wood, prob-
ably around 1020, but certainly after the founding of the
Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was
replaced by a second cathedral that subsequently burnt
down again. The current building was consecrated in 1364
and built on the orders of Polands first king to be crowned
at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short (aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-
high, 1306-1333), who was crowned among the charred
rubble of its predecessor in 1319. Considered the most
important single building in Poland, Wawels extraordinary
Cathedral contains much that is original, although many
glorious additions have been made over the centuries.
Arguably not as stunning as that of its cousin St. Marys on
the Rynek, the interior of Wawel Cathedral more than makes
up for its visual shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount
of history packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb
of the former Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079),
a suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial
cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting
18 chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as youre
ever likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century
Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter
and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as
Veit Stoss 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The
Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion as the
final resting place of kings and statesmen - most recently
fromer president Lech Kaczyski - while at the top of a
gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne
Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly be heard 50km
away.QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30.
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can
be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite
the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual
cathedral itsel f is free you will need a ticket to enter
the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower.
A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral
Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral
Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5z
in Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish,
Czech or French. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 -
16:30. Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal
Crypts and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z. Note that the
Cathedral Museum is closed Sun, but your ticket is valid
to visit another day.
Cathedral Tickets
Krakws prized art piece is this
Leonardo Da Vinci oil painting -
one of only three in the world,
and a sentimental favourite of
Pol es, reproduced and hung
in many a home. Leonardos
Lady has a chequered history;
when she isnt entertaining she
always seems to be on the run
or i n hi di ng somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map
completely, before having a ren-
dezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski during his Italian
holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he was, he brought her
home to his native Poland, where she was part of the
family until escaping to Paris in 1830 during the Warsaw
Insurrection. The Lady later returned to Poland in 1876
moving into what would become her official address in
Krakws Czartoryski Museum, only to be captured by
the Nazis and moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans
rescued her and returned her to Krakw where she is
today one of the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel for the
next two years until its proper home in the Czartoryski
Museum is reopened after renovation. Exhibited on its
own alongside in depth information about its complicated
history and authenticity, the priceless painting requires
a separate admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be
missed. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. From November open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8z.
Lady With an Ermine
The Senators Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5,
Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-
wawelska.pl. Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before
he became Pope John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum
features a wealth of religious and secular items dating
from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups and
downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable
possessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three
pieces at the funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August
(1548-1572) the last of the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well
as all manner of coronation robes and royal insignias too
boot. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sun. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3,
tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl.
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault. He
joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in the 16th,
17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of nine more
Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their children
thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and kingdom
itself), the honour was extended to statesmen with Prince
Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets
Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Sowacki (1923), Jzef
Pisudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993) all
securing themselves a place here. Most recently - in April
of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyski and his wife
Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smolesk; admission to their tomb (and that of Pisudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL;
the exit deposits you back outside. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30,
Sun 12:30 - 16:30.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon
Zygmunta) B-5, Wawel 3,
www.katedra-wawelska.
pl. Follow the crowds up the
many gruelling flights of Si-
gismunds Belfry to reach the
infamous Sigismund Bell - a
resounding symbol of Polish
nationalism ala Philadelphias
Liberty Bell. The largest by
far of five bells hanging in the
same tower, Sigismunds Bell
weighs in at an astounding
13 tonnes (9630 kgs), mea-
sures 241cm in height, 242cm
across at the lip and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze
beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I
and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund
as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung
to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as
significant moments in history (most recently the funeral of
former President Lech Kaczyski and his wife) the bells peal
can be heard 50km away and is quite an enterprise to ring,
requiring the strength of twelve strong men; a dangerous
job, the bell-tollers are actually lifted from the ground by the
force of the bell, resulting in at least one famous accident
when a bell-toller was flung from the tower to his death during
the interwar period. The entrance to Sigismund Belltower is
within the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts
as well) are purchased at the ticket office across from the
Cathedrals main entrance. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun
12:30 - 16:30.
Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guar-
antee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long
queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for
the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor
Centre Reservation Office at least 30mins before the
reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except for
the Royal Apartments, however foreign language guides
can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance. In addi-
tion to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre is also
the place to get more info about various theme tours on
offer, pick up free maps or make use of the small post
office, gift shop, caf/restaurant and toilets. Q Open
09:00 - 18:00. From November open 09:00 - 17:00.
Wawel Visitor Centre
Dragons Den (Smocza
Jama) B-5, Western, low
end of Wawel Hill, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Formed
about 25 million years ago, the
spectacular limestone forma-
tion of Wawel Hill is not the
solid piece of rock it appears
to be, but rather fill ed wi th
eerie caves and crawl spaces.
As legend would have it, the
craggy chambers beneath
Wawel were once home to
Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel
Dragon, a particularly nasty
creature who l i ked nothi ng
more than to gorge himself on sheep and local maidens.
Story goes that as the village ran out of virgins, the King
promised the hand of his only daughter to the hero who
could vanquish the vile beast. Wave upon wave of brave
knights fell beneath the dragons fiery breath before a
poor cobbler named Krak tricked Smok into eating a
sheep stuffed full of sulphur, which instantly ignited inside
his gullet. With an unquenchable thirst the dragon went
and drank half the river before his distended belly ex-
ploded and the town was freed of his wrath. The rest, as
they say, is history: Krak married the princess, became
king, built his castle on the dragons lair and the people
built a city around it named Krakw after their king.
Smoks bones were hung triumphantly outside the en-
trance of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His cave
later became a famous tavern and brothel during medieval
times and is now a tourist trap luring families into its drip-
ping, less than awe-inspiring confines. Save this for last as
you enter a descending staircase from inside the castle
courtyard where it overlooks the Wisa River, to be later
deposited outside the complex on the riverbank below in
front of Smoks sculpted bronze likeness unveiled in 1972
to a design by the local artist Bronisaw Chromy. It was
once possible to send Smok an SMS which would send him
into temporary raptures of fire-breathing bliss, however
he now does it without checking his phone first, so just
be patient and dont look down his throat. Q Open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed from November. Admission 3z. Tickets
are purchased from a machine outside the entrance.
Dragons Den
fot. Anna Stankiewicz
87
86
KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ
History
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded on an island outside of Krakw by
King Kazimierz the Great. It was not until 1495 when Jews
began to be expelled from Krakw that they started to move
over the river to Kazimierz en masse. Awarded its Magdeburg
Rights, which allowed markets to be held on what is now Pl.
Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and became one of the most
influential Polish towns during the Middle Ages. By the 17th
century Jewish life was flourishing and numerous synagogues
had been constructed when the plague hit in 1651. Four years
later Kazimierz was ransacked by Swedish invaders, famine,
floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick succession, and
a mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimierz a shadow of its former self.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into its neighbouring city.
Ironically this would bring about the areas rebirth as the
Austrians worked hard to redevelop the city: the streets were
cobbled, the crumbling defensive walls were torn down, the
first gas lamps were illuminated in 1857, and the suburb had a
power station by 1905. The governing Austrians also ordered
all of Krakws Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and a rich cultural
life arose around them; by 1910 the Jewish population stood at
32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war
years. This, as we know, would come to a dramatic end with the
Nazi occupation of Krakw and Hitlers systematic extermina-
tion of the Jews of Europe. Herded across the river to a ghetto
in Podgrze, Krakws Jews met their end there, in Paszw, or
Beec (primarily). A mere 3-5,000 survived the Holocaust, a
large proportion of them saved by Oskar Schindler.
Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Krakw in
1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon vanished. The
anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist authorities
sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s
signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared and the area had
become a bandit suburb. The fall of communism in 1989
sparked new hope, however; investment began trickling in,
1988 saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years
later the Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also
the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindlers List, a film
that would put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably
change its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as
high on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical
importance and public regard the area possesses.
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the
Wisa River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisa once
flowed) was the centre of Jewish life in Krakw for over 500
years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War
II. In the communist era it became one of Krakws dodgiest
districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered
in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide
exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz has
since been on the rebound and is today Krakws most exciting
district - a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with his-
torical sites, atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Well-known
for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, traces of
Kazimierzs Jewish history have not only survived, but literally
abound in the form of the districts numerous synagogues and
Jewish cemeteries. In fact, no other place in Europe conveys
a sense of pre-war Jewish culture on the continent better
than Kazimierz. As a result, the district has become a major
tourist draw and could almost be considered a pilgrimage site
for Jews, which has led to the return of contemporary Jewish
culture in the area in recent decades. Each summer since
1988 the massively popular Jewish Culture Festival has filled
Kazimierzs streets and cafes with music, while educating
Krakws residents and guests about the citys pre-war Jewish
history and celebrating modern Jewish culture. The fact that its
one of the years biggest parties proves that theres more to
Kazimierz than sepia photographs and old synagogues. Here
youll find the heart of Krakows artistic, bohemian character
behind the wooden shutters of dozens of antique shops and
art galleries. Peeling faades and obscure courtyards hide
dozens of bars and cafes, many affecting an air of pre-war
timelessness. Centred around the former Jewish square now
known as Plac Nowy, Kazimierz has emerged as the citys best
destination for caf culture and nightlife. Alternative, edgy
and packed with oddities, Kazimierz is an essential point of
interest to any visitor.
Szeroka Street www.flickr.com, Ana Paula Hirama
Pl ac Nowy D- 6.
Whi l e Krakws mai n
square, Rynek Gwny,
makes al l t he post-
c a r d s a n d p h o t o -
graphs, i t is Plac Nowy
i n Kazi mi erz that has
emerged as the spi ri -
tual centre of Krakw
sub- cul ture. Lacki ng
the spl endour of the
Old Town, Plac Nowy is,
i f anything, something
of an eyesore - a col -
l ection of unkempt buil dings surrounding a concrete
square fill ed wi th chipped green market stalls and
rat-like pigeons flapping about. I f you want something
compl etel y di f ferent from the Ol d Town, however,
here i t is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late
17th century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted
by an oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it
as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years
it has served as a market place with its central land-
mark, the Okrglak (rotunda), being added in 1900. The
rotunda was leased to the Jewish community in 1927
serving as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up
until Nazi occupation. Following the war it resumed its
role as the centre of the market around it, a function it
still carries today. Butcher shops still occupy the interior,
but the real action is to be found outside where hungry
locals are happy to line-up outside the dozen or so
hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from the
rotunda, eager to taste the best zapiekanka in Poland.
Placing their orders through the small windows youll
find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency
calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls get-
ting their weeks worth of calories with this legendary
Cracovian street food. Visiting Krakw without eating
a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin
without having a Guinness.
Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310
trading stalls, and youll find something going on daily
from 5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but
weekly highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays,
Sundays clothing market, and Tuesday and Friday
mornings bewildering small critter expo/pigeon fair. A
photo essay waiting to happen, arrive early to the latter
to learn the answer to the riddle, How many rabbits fit
in a suitcase?
As trade dri es up for the day the area takes on a
new guise: Krakws premi er pub crawl circui t. Find
the academi cs wi th beads, beards and secondhand
books in places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Cou-
leurs, whil e the similarl y dark and arty Mleczarnia
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) boasts the ci tys best
beer garden during the warm months. Full of sham-
boli c charm, Plac Nowy is beginning to di versi fy to a
degree wi th glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale
and Baroque, and Taawa - the first danceclub to
open on Plac Nowy.
Plac Nowy
www.placnowy.pl
What to See
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than an
actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierzs first Jewish
merchants settled, and the square is bookended by two of
the citys most important synagogues - the Old Synagogue
and the Remuh Synagogue, whose historic cemetery
extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba. Ul. Szeroka 6 (now
the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant) formerly housed
the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that gained notoriety
in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed and ten women
drowned. Nearby beneath a ring of maples at the streets
northern end is a memorial and Place of meditation upon
the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality
from Cracow. Today ul. Szerokas picturesque cobbled lanes
are primarily lined with businesses and restaurants tastefully
aimed at tourists like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) - so named
because the Queen of Cosmetics was born next door at
number 14, and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in
Kazimierz, ul. Szeroka 1), with its row of faux Jewish shop
fronts; next door youll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2), the areas
first Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Jzefa just past the Old Syna-
gogue, youll find the High Synagogue at number 38, so
called because the prayer room was located on the first
floor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop (see Shopping)
and a small exhibition space with rotating historical exhibits
about the history of Polands Jewish population. Along this
block of ul. Jzefa you can easily spot indentations left by
mezuzahs, and a Hebrew inscription on the building next
door to the High Synagogue. Make a right onto ul. Kupa
(literally Poop Street in English, at least thats the PG
version) to visit the Isaac Synagogue (ul. Kupa 18, E-6),
whose restored interiors now house a permanent exhibi-
tion titled In Memory of Polish Jews. In 1939 a member of
the synagogue committee was executed inside these halls
after refusing to set fire to it. The synagogue is also the
source of an enchanting legend. It relates to the founder,
Isaac, a devout but impoverished Jew who once had a
dream telling him i f he went to Prague he would discover
great treasures buried by a bridge. Following his instincts
he set off to Prague, only to find the bridge he had dreamt
of surrounded by a garrison of soldiers. Having spotted him
loitering, one of the soldiers confronted the Jew, demand-
ing to know what he was up to. Isaac came clean, only for
the soldier to scoff words to the effect of Fool, Ive been
having dreams all my li fe about a Krakw Jew called Isaac
who has treasure hidden under his stove. But Im not stu-
pid enough to go to Krakw, especially seeing that every
second Jew is named Isaac. You can probably guess the
rest: the moment Isaac returned home he pulled the stove
down and discovered a wealth of riches, making him the
wealthiest man in Kazimierz.
The street that bears his name (ul. Izaaka) leads you to
Plac Nowy (D-6), formerly known as Plac ydowski (Jewish
Square) and still today the districts bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your
tour head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6)
to find what many regard as Krakws most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes
from Spielbergs Schindlers List. Along the way youll pass
the Judaica Foundation at ul. Meiselsa 17 and arguably
Krakws best beer garden (Mleczarnia) if youre here during
the warm season.
City Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Informa-
tion on what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 430
54 11, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 130
members and organises events and gatherings for the
Jewish community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewi sh Communi ty Centr e (Centr um
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6,
ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.
jcckrakow.org. The headquarters of Krakws surviv-
ing and strengthening Jewish community. JCC organ-
ises numerous events (check website for calendar) and
exhibits, arranges tours, and is home to a large library
of Jewish related materials. Q Open 10:00 - 20:30, Fri
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Useful Contacts
88 89
Museums
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12
421 12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish
museums are catching up wi th the modern world, this
charming museum inside an old tram depot features five
separate exhibitions. The first two deal with the history of
public transport in Krakw and the development of the
Polish automotive industry through a hangar full of old tram
cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique wheeled
vehicles, the third explores the history of printing in Krakw
from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the other two are fun,
interactive exhibits aimed at children and families. Around
the Circle teaches kids fundamental scienti fic principles
via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor Garden
Of New Words (Ogrdek Nowych Swek) is more like a
playground for 3-5 year-olds where theyll learn first-hand
the meaning of words such as gravity (open in nice weather
onl y and cl osed in autumn/winter). Recommended for
families and more fun than it sounds, the science exhibits
will hold kids interest long enough for Dad to look at car
engines, while Mom dreams of escaping on that motorbike.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/5.5z,
family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etno-
muzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usually
gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres not
enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside,
including beauti ful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of
the so-called Nati vi ty Cribs, the breathtaking top floor
collection of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba
Podhalaska and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits
explained in good English, all we need say is it does a highly
commendable job of promoting and explaining Polish folk
culture, and cant come recommended enough. A separate
gallery for changing exhibits can be found nearby at ul.
Krakowska 46. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum
(ydowski e Muzeum
Galicja) E- 6, ul. Dajwr
18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68
42, www.galiciajewishmu-
seum.org. The brainchild of
l ate award-wi nni ng photo-
journalist Chris Schwarz, the
permanent exhibit of the Gali-
cia Jewish Museum (Traces
of Memor y ) i s compri sed
of some 135 photographs aimed at keeping the memory
of Jewish life in southern Poland alive in the aftermath of
the Holocaust. Schwarzs images of forgotten cemeteries,
derelict synagogues and death camps prove haunting and
sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential part of any
Kazimierz tour. Though his exhibition serves as the focal
point, the converted warehouse also houses small temporary
exhibits, a caf, information point and a large bookstore sell-
ing a range of titles of Jewish interest. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 30z. Children under 7 free.
Guided tours for groups of over 10: 13.50/8z per person;
individual guided tours: 60z/30-45mins, 100z/60mins.
Tours available in English. Y
KAZIMIERZ KAZIMIERZ
Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa)
D/E- 6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up
two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the citys
largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the
pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even)
being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are few
things we like more than mermaids, the crowning glory has
to be the towering golden altarpiece (removed for renova-
tion unfortunately). According to legend, a robber who had
stolen a precious relic from another church repented on this
spot, abandoning the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw
a strange light emanating from the ground and discovering
their sacred prize, founded a church here in recognition of
the miracle. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Closed
Sun. Not visiting during mass please.
S k a k a ( Ko c i
Paul i nw, Paul i ne
Church) C-7, West end
of ul . Ska eczna, tel .
(+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl.
Commonl y referred to as
Skaka, this gorgeous riv-
ersi de sanctuar y i s one
of the most important religious sites in Krakw, with a
fair share of history. In 1079, King Bolesaw the Bold ac-
cused the bishop of Krakw, Stanisaw Szczepaski, of
treason. According to legend, the bishop was beheaded
with the sword seen next to the altar and then his body
was chopped into pieces on a tree stump. After the mur-
der, the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the
spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline
Church and made regular pilgrimages there to atone for
the murder. Szczepaski was canonised in 1253. The
Skaka crypt is packed tight with important Poles including
composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesaw Miosz and
painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski. Q
Open 06:30 - 19:00; Wed,Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Crypt open
09:00 - 17:00, closed from mid-November. No visi ting
during mass please.
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put
aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa
24, D-6), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6) and
New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6) - all of which
are nearby and essential points of interest. Kazimierz is not
exclusively Jewish, however, with several noteworthy Catholic
churches moored in the district. The most noteworthy is
Skaka (ul. Skaeczna, C-7), where Stanisaw, the Bishop
of Szczepanw, was murdered and then quartered at the
whim of King Bolesaw the Bold; a blood-splattered stone
can allegedly be seen beside the altar. Stanisaw went on in
death to become the patron saint of Poland, and Skaka is
also the final resting place of local heroes Czesaw Miosz
and Stanisaw Wyspiaski. Kazimierz is also home to some
of Krakws most popular museums; both the City Engineer-
ing Museum (ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic
Museum (Plac Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking
the kids and keeping them entertained.
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, i f not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco
to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace
it once was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since
the end of the 18th century when it was granted the
privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of
the squares original size. However, the Town Hall has
managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs
incorporation into Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was
taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated it
into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th
century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended
Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the
once more predomi nantl y Jewi sh nei ghbourhoods
around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierzs revival
over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become
more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken
derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with
more cafs and restaurants opening around its edges
and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz with
Podgrze over the river to the south.
Plac Wolnica
Ethnographic Museum
Antique tram at the City Engineering Museum
Father Bernatek Foot-
bridge (Kadka Ojca Ber-
natka) J-4. Opened on Sep-
tember 30th, 2013, the Father
Bernatek Footbri dge (Kadka
Oj ca Bernatka) straddles the
Wisa River just south of the centre, linking the districts
of Kazimierz with Podgrze between ul. Mostowa (E-7)
and ul. Nadwilaska (J-4) where several road bridges
had stood in its place before, the last being dismantled
way back in 1925. The leaf-shaped, 130m structure
accommodates both pedestrians and cyclists with its
twin walkway design by local architect Andrzej Getter.
Though a source of controversy during its development
(largely due to coming in over budget at a sobering 38
million zoty), the Bernatek bridge is now a beloved part
of the urban landscape, both for its convenience and
aesthetic appeal. The bridge has played a key role in the
revitalisation of the two areas it connects between Plac
Wolnica and Rynek Podgrski, which is now not only an
ideal destination for an alternative pub crawl, but also
a romantic stroll. Its here that Cracovian couples have
adopted the increasingly popular (and unoriginal) tradi-
tion of attaching padlocks engraved with their names to
the railings of the bridge, before throwing the keys into
the Wisa (while the rest of us throw up in our mouths)
as evidence of their unbreakable bond and commitment
to each other. The success and influence of the bridge
will hopefully inspire the city to follow through on plans
it has for a similar pedestrian river crossing close to
Wawel Castle.
Father Bernatek Footbridge
91
90
PODGRZE KAZIMIERZ
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the
cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue
serves as the oldest survi ving example of Jewish reli -
gious architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series
of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of
Polish Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The
English explanations assume no great depth of knowledge
on the readers part and are therefore a perfect primer
on the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands
the bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron bal -
ustrade. There are also temporary exhibitions held from
time to time particularly during the citys Jewish festival
held towards the end of June. The bookshop sells a fine
selection of works related to Jewish Krakw, in a number
of languages. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00.
From November open 10:00 - 16:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket
18z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga
Remuh z Cmentarzem) E- 6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 11. The smal l est but most acti ve
synagogue i n Kazi mi erz, dati ng from 1553. Under nor-
mal ci rcumstances, i f you enter qui etl y, you may even
be af forded a gl i mpse of a servi ce. Currentl y however,
restorati on works mean youll need to make an appoi nt-
ment to see the i nteri or or strol l through the cemetery
whi ch was i n use until 1800. This hol y burial ground was
spared by the vandal i sm of the Nazi s because many
of the gravestones had been buri ed to avoi d desecra-
ti on duri ng the 19th century occupati on of Krakw by
Austri an forces. Most famous i s the tomb of the 16th
centur y Rabbi Moses I sserl es, better known as the
Remuh. Besi de hi m l i es hi s wi fe, Gol da Auerbach, i n the
cemeterys ol dest tomb. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Cl osed
Fri, Sat. Admi ssi on 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Kazimierzs
newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with several later
expansions, the most recent of which was in 1924. Under
Nazi occupation the building was used as a warehouse and
stables, yet survived the war and regular services were
even held here until 1968, before stopping completely
a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork
within now plays host to many concerts and occasional
religious ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish
Festival of Culture. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Fri, Sat.
Admission 5/2z.
When Spi el ber g came to
Krakw to produce his award-
winning film Schindlers List,
the resul t was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of
Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, how-
ever, it didnt reach across the
river to Podgrze, despite the
fact most of the films historic
events took place there, as
did much of the filming. As
Kazi mi erz became super-
saturated with tourists and
bars, predictions were that
Podgrze would emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian
district; however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes,
things were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the
beaten path in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgrze. Since the opening of Schindlers Factory as a major
attraction and the construction of the Bernatek footbridge
creating a direct artery of tourist traffic into the district, that
has begun to change, but Podgrze remains Krakws most
mysterious and underappreciated neighbourhood.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual at-
tractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date from
over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish invasion in
the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled. Awarded the
rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian Emperor Joseph
II, the town was eventually incorporated as Krakws fourth
district in 1915, and the following decades saw its aggressive
development; quarries and brickworks were constructed, and
a string of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5)
is the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to
the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history
are what people most associate with the district.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in
Kazimierz were marched across the Powstancw lskich
bridge and crammed into what was to become known as the
Podgrze Ghetto. Traces of the Ghetto still exist, includ-
ing a prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (K-4).
Liquidated on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghettos
residents were murdered there, while others met death in the
nearby Liban quarry and Paszw concentration camp, or
in the gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau. The opening
of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4, Lipowa 4) has, in
addition to helping the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust,
finally endorsed Podgrzes status as a bona fide tourist
destination. With plenty to see and do, you could easily spend
an entire day exploring Podgrze and a walk up into the hills
is not only a great way to get off the beaten path - its also
Krakws most evocative area.
Krakus Mound (Ko-
piec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryews-
kiego. The oldest struc-
ture in Krakw, Krakus
Mound i s one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn sum-
mit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of Al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineer-
ing, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried be-
neath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earth-
work - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation of
burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and today
they remain one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.
Krakus Mound
St. Benedicts Church
Synagogues & Jewish Cemeteries
High Synagogue E- 6, ul. Jozefa 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 68 89. The third oldest synagogue in Krakw, the
High Synagogue was completed in 1563, and is unique for
having its prayer room upstairs; its widely theorised that
this was a safety precaution to protect the congregation
from unfriendly neighbours. The design didnt save it from
being the subject of arson during WWII sadly, and today no
furnishings remain. The upstairs prayer room has retained
some original details, however, including the Holy Ark, two
golden gri ffins have survived above the Aron Kodesh, and
some of the murals have been restored. The size of the
high-ceilinged room and quality of those details that do
remain indicate that this was a magnificent space before its
destruction. Today admission is paid to go upstairs to the
prayer room, where visitors will also see a small temporary
museum exhibit. On the ground floor is a large bookstore
with books of Jewish interest in a variety of languages.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit 9/6z,
children under 10 free.
Isaac Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa
18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.
pl. The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a
wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strik-
ingly beauti ful of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches yet retaining a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items. Q Open
08:30 - 18:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
New Jewish Cemetery
E- 6, ul. Miodowa 55. This
enormous cemetery was es-
tablished in 1800 and was
the burial ground for many of
Krakws distinguished Jews
i n the 19th and earl y 20th
centuries. Its story takes on
a darker aspect with the deci-
mation of the Jewish popula-
tion between 1939 and 1945.
Many of the tombstones are
actually no more than memorials to entire families that were
killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters.
The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the
walls of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit
candles burning over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Fri, Sat.
The Old Synagogue
Temple Synagogue Thiane/www.flickr.com/CC BY 2.0
92 93
PODGRZE PODGRZE
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cliffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest, small-
est and most mysterious churches in the clearing next to
the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present structure has
been hard to determine, but the curious site certainly dates
back to the 11th century and a leading theory attributes it
to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec. Saved from destruction
and dereliction by a local priest the tiny, cramped interior -
consisting of only a small nave and chancel with a painting
of St. Benedict over the pulpit - has been restored, but can
only be accessed twice a year: on St. Benedicts Name Day
(July 16th) and, ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival
held the first Tuesday after Easter.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over the
heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of the districts
main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was
built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.
Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry
dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs
slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most
beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night. The
interior is no less beautiful and visitors should also note the
abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on a rocky outcropping
behind the church - all that remains of the original temple,
dismantled due to design flaws.QOpen during mass only
and by prior arrangement.
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum
Sztuki Wspczesnej w Krakowie) K- 4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened
on May 20th 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary
Art (MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews
from all who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindlers
Factory, the building alone will impress with its avant-garde
styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large
and fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting
both Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysaw
Porbski Library and its collection of works on art theory
and history. Several provocative temporary exhibitions
are ever-changing: check their website for details. Despite
the relatively late closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave
yoursel f plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to of-
fer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1
hour before closing. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z.
Tue free.
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K-4, ul.
Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. After
years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods
Factory (to give it its full name) re-opened to the public as
a world-class museum in June 2010. The story of Oskar
Schindler and his employees is one which has been well-known
since the book and film by Thomas Keneally and Steven Spiel-
berg (whose film Schindlers List was shot almost entirely
in Krakw), and while that story is now covered in detail on
the original site, the museum casts the city of Krakw in the
main role of its permanent exhibition titled, Krakw During
Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Individual histories of Krakws
wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which
covers the war of 1939, Krakws role as the seat of the
General Government, everyday life under occupation, the fate
of the Jews and the citys underground resistance using vast
archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings, period
artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. A separate
section of the factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures
and other cultural events, and another large part of the factory
was controversially converted to host MOCAK - the contem-
porary art museum which opened in spring 2011.
The development of Schindlers Factory into a world-class
educational and cultural site is great news not only for tourists,
but also for Podgrze and the healing process of the city itself
as it reconciles one of the most painful chapters of its history.
A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinating museums in
the entire country and we recommend you reserve at least two
hours if you want to see everything. Note that visiting groups
need to book in advance using the museum website. To get
there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterw Getta (J-4) and its a 5-10
minute walk down ul. Kcik, under the train overpass, onto ul.
Lipowa and youre there. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00
- 16:00. From November open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 -
14:00. Last entrance 90 minutes before closing. Admission
19/16z, family ticket 50z. Guided tours in English for groups
of over 15 people, 150z. Mon free for permanent exhibitions.
Places of Interest
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The onl y surviving
fortress of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th
century to protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww,
Fort Benedict is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion
Tower type left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick
artillery tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area of
1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota
Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts church.
The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the 1890s and
has since been used as Austrian military barracks and
was even converted into apartments in the 1950s, though
today it lies in general dereliction, filled with abandonned
furniture and building materials. After numerous projects
involving the fort failed to develop, care of Fort Benedict has
recently been transferred back to the city of Krakw, with
plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding to the
scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most surprising
and strange corners.
Old Podgrze Cemetery (Stary Cmentarz Podgr-
ski) K-5, Corner of ul. Limanowskiego and ul. Pow-
stancw Wielopolskich. Podgrzes primary necropolis
for over a hundred years, the Old Podgrze Cemetery is/was
the resting place of the formerly independent citys most
distinguished citizens. Established in the late 18th century,
the cemeterys grand arched gateway is set back from a busy
intersection on a hill behind the iconic sculpture of God the
Father. Unfortunately, with the exception of a few, many of
the most notable graves have been lost during the boneyards
turbulent history. Crossing the stone entry, the first grave on
the right is the resting place of Edward Dembowski - leader
of the 1846 Krakw Uprising, laid to rest here in a collective
grave with 28 insurgents shot by the Austrian Army; nearby
is the Bednarski family vault, where Wojciech - founder of
Podgos most beautiful park - reposes. Closed upon reach-
ing capacity in 1900, the Germans levelled a third of the
cemetery during WWII while building a railway. Even more
grievous was the sites reduction to a fraction of its original
size during the construction of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
in the 1970s, when almost all the graves were destroyed or
strewn haphazardly about. Like much of the district today,
the cemeterys charm lies in the nostalgic character of its
general neglect and vanishing beauty. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00.
From November open 07:00 - 18:00.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K- 4, ul. Lwowska 25-29.
Krakws most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983, a com-
memorative plaque was raised, which reads in Hebrew and
Polish: Here they lived, suffered and died at the hands of the
German torturers. From here they began their final journey
to the death camps.
Ghetto Wall Fragments K-5, ul. Limanowskiego 69.
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of the
original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground behind
the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego 62. Those looking
to continue their creepy tour of the area should climb the
steep trail leading from the back of the playground straight
up to the Old Podgrze Cemetery, to the right from which is
the abandoned Fort Benedict.
Starmach Gallery (Former Zucher Synagogue)
J-4, ul. Wgierska 5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.
starmach.eu. Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick
building was one of four former prayer houses within the
area of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa 7.
Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans during the
war (though it continued in secret) and the synagogue was
converted into a warehouse and then a factory. When the
ghetto was established, many valuable religious artefacts
from Kazi mi erz synagogues were transferred here for
protection, however the eventual liquidation of the ghetto
guaranteed that they were looted and lost. After the war the
building slowly fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa
Starmach rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turn-
ing it into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding and a
visit is highly recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square, formerly Plac Zgody) J-4. First plot-
ted out in 1836, this public square just across the
river from the Powstacw lskich bridge has had a
turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Krakw Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghettos largest open space, Plac Zgody was a
place for people to socialise, relax and escape the op-
pressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also the
site of families being torn apart, mass deportations to
the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign of
the square. Though after the war the name of Plac Zgody
was changed to Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto Heroes
Square) and a small monument was erected, the spaces
historical significance never felt more pertinent than its
post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot. Finally, after
decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterw Getta was renovated
in 2005, sparking significant controversy over the design.
Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the most iconic place in
Podgrze. Laid out with 70 large well-spaced metal chairs
meant to symbolise departure, as well as subsequent
absence, the entire square has essentially been turned
into an evocative memorial to the victims of the Krakw
Ghetto. A place for candles and reflection was also added
within the small, former bus terminal building at the north
end of the square, however it still goes sadly ignored (see
if you can do something about that).
During the war, Plac Bohaterw Getta 6 was the regular
meeting point of the Jewish Combat Organisation
(OB), as noted by a plaque on the front of the building.
Krakws Jewish underground resistance orchestrated
acts of sabotage outside the ghetto, with their greatest
success coming in December 1942 when a grenade
detonated inside the Cyganeria Caf - a popular meet-
ing place for Nazi officers on ul. Szpitalnia - killing and
wounding several Germans. Plac Bohaterw Getta
18 - on the south side of the square at the corner of ul.
Targowa - was the site of Pankiewiczs famous Apteka
Pod Orem, now a branch of the Krakw History Museum
with exhibits depicting life in the ghetto. Every year on the
Sunday following the March 14th liquidation of the ghetto,
a remembrance parade honouring the victims sets off
from Plac Bohaterw Getta to the Holocaust monument
on the site of the former Paszw camp.
Plac Bohaterw Getta
Zygmunt Put/Wikipedia/CC-BY-SA 3.0
95
94
JEWISH GHETTO JEWISH GHETTO
Deportations
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move to
the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what else
to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to their
families in the Krakw Ghetto.
Fol l owi ng the Wannsee Conference i n January 1942,
the Nazis began to ini tiate The Final Solution - Hi tl ers
systemati c plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.
May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror wi thin
the Krakw Ghetto as i t was surrounded by Nazi troops
and all documents were inspected. Those who coul dn t
produce proper work permi ts were assembl ed on Plac
Zgody before being transferred to Paszw rail station,
l oaded into cattl e cars in groups of 120, and sent to
Beec death camp i n eastern PL. Unsati sfi ed by the
ini tial numbers, the Germans continued their arbi trary
round-ups for days. One June 6th all previous documents
were declared invalid and ghetto occupants were required
to appl y for a new Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that
were deni ed likewise met their deaths in Beec, includ-
i ng popul ar poet and songwri ter Mordechai Gebi r ti g
Phar macy Under
the Eagle (Apteka
Pod Orem) J- 4, Pl.
Bohaterw Getta 18,
tel. (+48) 12 656 56
25, www.mhk.pl. When
the Nazis created the Jew-
ish ghetto in Podgrze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its
Polish owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at
the very heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his
staff were the only Poles allowed to live and work in the
ghetto and over the two years of the ghettos existence,
Apteka Pod Orem became an important centre of social
life as well as aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsi-
fied documents and avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz
(recognised today as one of the Righteous Among the
Nations) and his staff risked their lives in many clan-
destine operations while bearing witness to tragedy
through the windows of the pharmacy as the ghetto
and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately liquidated.
Today the building is a branch of the Krakw Historical
Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi occupa-
tion, which through traditional and multimedia displays,
and extensive testimonials from both Poles and Jews,
heartrendingly describes life in the Krakw Ghetto. In-
formation is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creat-
ing a very intimate visiting experience. Though compris-
ing only 5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting
this excellent museum. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-
ing. Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
Pharmacy Under the Eagle
I mmortal i sed by Thomas Ke-
neal l y s book Schi ndl ers
Ark, and then later in the mas-
si vel y successful Spi el ber g
fi l m Schindlers List, Oskar
Schindler is a name synonymous
with Krakw. A hard-drinking, war-
profiteering playboy, Schindler
does not fit the standard mould
for a hero, though neither was
he a stereotypical Nazi. Credited
with saving 1,200 Jews his ac-
tions continue to serve as an example and inspiration,
and stand as one of the most heartening stories of the
Holocaust.
Early Years
Born on April 28, 1908 in what is now the town of Svitavy
in the Czech Republic, Schindler enjoyed a privileged
upbringing and was childhood friends with the Jewish
family residing next door. The 1930s economic crisis saw
his family's firm slide into bankruptcy, and like so many
disaffected Germans he signed up with the Nazi party.
In Krakw
Hot on the heels of the invading German army Schindler
found himself arriving in Krakw in 1939 where he took
charge of a formerly Jewish-owned enamel factory.
Motivated by greed he principally employed cut-price
Jewish labour, and involved himself in the thriving black
market. Living a care-free, lavish lifestyle his world and
motives appear to have changed after witnessing the
liquidation of the Podgrze Ghetto. Both Keneally and
Spielberg pay particular importance to his fascination
with the plight of a small girl dressed in a red cape and
Schindler would later claim, Beyond this day, no think-
ing person could fail to see what would happen. I was
now resolved to do everything in my power to defeat the
system. He arranged for workers housed in the notorious
Paszw concentration camp to be moved to his factory,
shielding them time and time again from deportation and
death through bribery and cunning. With the war coming
to a close, and his Jews facing the prospect of death
marches and gas chambers, he miraculously managed
to persuade the Nazi authorities to relocate his factory
and his workers to Brunlitz (a sub-camp of Gross-Rosen)
in 1944. Estimates suggest he spent four million marks
during the war on protecting his workers, with his wife
even selling her jewellery so as to provide funds for
medicine and food. Moreover, in the seven months he
spent as director of a shell factory in Brunlitz, not one
working shell left the production line.
Post-War
Following the war he emigrated to Argentina with his wife
to settle as a farmer, though by 1957 he was declared
bankrupt and returned to Germany alone. Financial woes
were to dog him for the rest of his life. Regarded as a trai-
tor to the fatherland he was cold shouldered by Germans
and more business ventures fell by the wayside. By the
time of his death in 1974 he was fully dependent on the
charity of those he had saved. Buried in Jerusalem, his
acts of courage have been honoured by Yad Vashem as
one of the Righteous Amongst Nations. Schindler sights
in Krakw include the house at ul. Starszewskiego 7
where he lived before moving permanently into his fac-
tory at ul. Lipowa 4. After a long wait, the factory is now
open to the public as a museum.
Oskar Schindler
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre of
Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an important
cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews - one quarter
of the citys total population - who enjoyed the citys relatively
tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish community began
almost immediately following German occupation in early
September 1939, however. Despite an increasing series of
regulations restricting the civil rights and personal freedom
of Jews, more and more were arriving in Krakw from the rest
of PL in the hope of finding safety amidst the citys dense
community. In October 1939, the Nazis registered 68,482
Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directl y
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result
of resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population
was reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain
the economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
Establishment
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish Housing
District on the right bank of the Wisa River in the district
of Podgrze. What would become known as the Krakw or
Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an approximately 20
hectare (50 acre) space of some 320 mostly one- and two-
story buildings in Podgrzes historic centre bound by the river
and the Krzemionki hills to the north and south, and between
the Krakw-Paszw rail line and Podgrzes market square
to the east and west. In the 17 days between the ghettos es-
tablishment and the March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline,
approximately 3,000 original residents of the district were
relocated across the river to be replaced by some 16,000
Jews, whose property and possessions were confiscated
with the exception of what they could carry into the ghetto.
Thousands of unregistered Jews also illegally entered the
ghetto seeking protection, bringing the total population of
the Krakw Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one apartment
allocated for every four families and an average of two
square metres of living space per person. Windows facing
Aryan Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to prevent
contact with the outside world and a 3 metre high wall was
erected around the confines of the ghetto, crowned with
arches conscientiously designed to resemble Jewish tomb-
stones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed the ghetto
- the main gate from Rynek Podgrski on ul. Limanowskiego
(J-4), another on the east end of ul. Limanowskiego near
its intersection with ul. Rkawka and ul. Lwowska (K-4),
a third close by at the intersection of ul. Lwowska and ul.
Jzefiska (K-4), and another at Plac Zgody (today known
as Plac Bohaterw Getta, J-4). A tram initially ran through
the ghetto, and though it made no stops, food and other
valuable commodities frequently found their way into the
ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Apteka Pod Orem
on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked outside the
ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial district, which
included Oskar Schindlers enamelware factory at ul.
Lipowa 4 (K-4).
and renowned painter Abraham Neuman. By the end of
the action, 7,000 Jews had been sent to their deaths,
and many more simpl y shot in the streets. [ The June
deportations were one of the best documented of such
actions, however photos from the events are still com-
monl y misi denti fi ed as being taken during the ghettos
li qui dation in March 1943.] Two weeks later the area of
the ghetto was reduced almost by hal f to the north si de
of ul. Limanowski ego and demarcated by barbed wire.
The increased densi ty of the population and increasing
brutal i ty of the Germans set of f a wave of sui ci des.
Though some remained optimisti c, worse was to come.
Work was also beginning on the nearby Paszw labour
camp, whi ch woul d eventuall y portend the end of the
Krakw ghetto.
I n l ate August and earl y September, 12-13,000 Jews
(many ori ginating from Krakw) were also sent to Beec
as the ghettos in nearby Somniki and Wi eli czka were
liquidated. Foll owing these brutal events, the correlation
between deportation and death became fully understood
perhaps for the fi rst ti me i n Krakw. I n October the
Germans announced that the Krakw ghetto woul d be
consoli dated again and sel ections began anew, wi th no
regard toward empl oyment status, age or heal th. An-
other 4,500 vi ctims were sent to their deaths in Beec,
whil e some 600 were shot insi de the ghetto. Wi th the
li qui dation of the ghetto hospi tal, orphanage and el derl y
home, many orphans and invalids were sent to the newl y
established Paszw labour camp, onl y to be murdered
on arrival. Afterwards the area east of Plac Zgody ceased
to be part of the ghetto, and a month later the remaining
terri tory was di vi ded into two secti ons: Ghetto A was
reserved for the heal thiest, most abl e-bodied residents,
and Ghetto B for those l ess desirabl e and destined for
deportation. Resi dents of Ghetto A began commuting
dai l y to work on the constructi on of Paszw l abour
camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Krakw as its new
Camp Commandant the pace of the camps development
hastened the ghettos demise.
Liquidation
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the Krakw
Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000 Jews (some
sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were immediately
transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto B and all children
under 14 were ordered to assemble on Plac Zgody the next
day. Despite likely knowing what lay in store, many mothers
stayed behind when Ghetto A was liquidated, refusing to
abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
hi stor y. The ghetto - whi ch at that poi nt essenti al l y
consisted of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings
just south of it - was surrounded by German troops who
attempted to herd its residents to the transports leaving
from the square. Chaos reigned and those who resisted
or attempted to escape were shot. Over 1,000 people
were killed in the streets (some estimates are as high as
2,000) and the 3,000 that left via cattle car went almost
directly to the gas chambers in Auschwitz. After this final
deportation, the Germans cl eaned their mess, l ooting
the houses, stripping the luggage strewn everywhere of
anything valuable, and taking down all the barbed wire. The
Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving almost as little trace
as the Jews who lived there.
97
96
SALWATOR SALWATOR
Being that Salwator has always been Krakws most green,
ancient and affluent district, its a bit of a wonder why more
people dont visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however,
were happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the areas
main attraction is the stunning Kociuszko Mound and
surrounding forti fications, but the scenic ascent to the
mound is almost as pleasant as the earthwork itself and
makes a perfect escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle
of the city centre. Essentially comprising one long, virtually
traffic-less, tree-lined avenue flanked by ancient churches,
atmospheric cemeteries and grand villas - which begins at
the citys largest sacral complex and summits atop the citys
most magnificent overlook - Salwator should hold plenty of
enchantment for visitors.
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
theres the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisawas Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisa River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Krakws largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influ-
ence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Krakws
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kociuszko and, in
addition to the convents Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawas Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Maopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. w. Bronisawy (as it turns into Al. Waszyn-
gtona) about 500 metres on the left and youll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Krakws most picturesque
necropolis. However, as youre en route, dont miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name Salwator
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small Garden City of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Krakws most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where it
bears right and youre at the foot of the Kociuszko Mound
and fortifications (F-3), one of Krakws most unique at-
tractions. While youre at the top, take a turn away from the
Old Town for a moment and youll see the rolling expanse of
Wolski Forest (Las Wolski) with the Camaldolese Monastery
and Pisudski Mound peaking out of the trees to the west.
The road that lead you this far will also take you deep enough
to find these further Zwierzyniec sights, as well as Krakws
Zoo, but bear in mind that you could easily spend an additional
day just hiking throughout this scenic woodland.
Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88, tel.
(+48) 12 427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norberts in 1148, this fortified monastery has been
destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the centuries,
seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar hordes whose
proficiency at razing architectural marvels has been well noted
by history. The structures seen today within the monasterys
many courtyards and high, crenellated walls were rebuilt at
the turn of the 17th century and the interiors date to the 18th
century. The baroque Church of St. Augustine and John the
Baptist (open during mass only) can be entered through the
13th century Romanesque portal beneath the tower or through
the outer courtyard. There have been two sisters canonised
from the Cracovian order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia
Podoska and Saint Bronisawa - renowned for her righteous-
ness. Some of Krakws most important traditions are also
connected with the monastery: here and along the banks of
the Rudawa the Emmaus festival has been celebrated every
year since the 12th century on the Monday after Easter. It is
also from here that the Lajkonik procession - the foremost
symbol of Krakw - sets off each year in June, due no doubt
to the convents magnetism towards Tartars.
Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica w. Magorzaty)
G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60,
www.parafiasalwator.pl. This unique octagonal chapel is
one of only three wooden temples left in Krakw. Originally
built as a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it
was burned many times (wonder how that happened?) with
its present structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet
typical, contrast to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind
named Powist who once stood at this site, today youll find
a statue of Pope John Paul II erected in 2008. The baroque
17th century altar within the charming chapel was borrowed
from the Church of the Holy Saviour just across the street
(G-3). Q Open during mass only in October when services
are held on the second and fourth Sundays of this month.
Church of the Holy Saviour (Koci Najwitszego
Salwatora) G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 9, www.parafiasalwa-
tor.pl. One of Krakws oldest and most modestly beautiful
churches, the Church of the Holy Savior stands atop a former
early Slavic temple. In fact, archaeologists have dated this site
as far back as the 10th century and some have even posited
that it may be the first Catholic site in all of Poland. First men-
tioned in writing back in 1148, you might be familiar with its
history since then: burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt
in the 17th century as you see it today. The age of the site can
be most felt in the interior which includes precious frescoes from
the early 16th century. Surrounding the church is a small, scenic
cemetery, including a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained
it and an old gravediggers cottage. Q Open during mass only.
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was
ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisa.
Perhaps the sanctuarys most famous daisy-pusher is one
of its most recent tenants - popular sci-fi author Stanisaw
Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Kociuszko Mound (Kopiec Kociuszki) F-3, Al.
Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09, www.kopieckos-
ciuszki.pl. History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko
(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the American War
of Independence before inspiring a valiant Insurrection against
foreign rule in Poland, this relentless freedom-fighter was
described by Thomas Jefferson as the purest son of liberty
that I have ever known. Upon his passing Polish authorities de-
manded his body be sent from Switzerland to be interred in the
Wawel Royal Crypts. Such was the countrys love of Kociuszko
that the people proposed to honour him with a monument in
the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak and Wanda
- and to make it the grandest in Krakw. With the approval of
the Norbertine Sisters who granted the land, city authorities
began developing an artificial burial mound to be constructed
atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec. When construction began
there was no lack of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held,
followed by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts
from Kociuszkos illustrious life were placed - as well as soil
from his many battlefields, including those in America - before
friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped the first
wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years people of all ages
from all over Poland brought soil from their homes and villages
to add to the mound. Though a committee was formed for its
oversight, the work was all done voluntarily. Officially completed
in November 1823, Kociuszko Mound stands 34 metres high,
326 metres above sea level. A boulder from the Tatra Moun-
tains, which on a clear day can be seen on the horizon from the
top of the mound, was placed at the top with the inscription,
Kociuszce (To Kociuszko).
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities took
over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building a brick
fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use the location
as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing a chapel of St.
Bronisawa at the site, the Austrians, in their gentility, built a
new chapel, incorporating it into the stronghold. Quite con-
trarily, the Germans later threatened to demolish the Mound
and surrounding fortifications during their WWII occupation
as they set about destroying all Polish monuments and
national symbols (along with 3 million Polish Jews). Though
parts of the fortress were destroyed, the Mound survived the
war better than the countrys population, 16% of which were
casualties of Nazi and Soviet bloodshed. Today the fortress
has been rebuilt and significant engineering improvements
have been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity, includ-
ing a vital drainage system.
Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the panoramic
views of Krakw are a worthwhile reward. The neo-Gothic
Chapel of St. Bronisawa, whi ch contains a medl ey of
objects connected to Kociuszkos life, can also be visited
and the surrounding fortifications also house two cafes, a
radio station, restaurant, wax museum and five additional
historical exhibitions. Admission is included with the mound
to all exhibits and the hours are also the same, except for
two exhibits: Cracovian Mounds, and Kociuszko - The First
Chapter (Open 09:30 - 17:30). Q Mound open daily from
09:00 - 18:00; exhibitions 09:30 - 18:00. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing Admission 11/9z.
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisa River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisawas Hill to Kociuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
Getting to Salwator
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Mon-
astery (G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisawa herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisawa spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisa River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
Johns Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
Norbertine Legends
Komitet Kopca Kociuszki
99
NOWA HUTA
98
NOWA HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only two
entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other
being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and one of the
finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in an
attempt to create an in-your-face proletarian opponent to intel-
lectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision to build NH
was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over the next few
years construction of a model city for 100,000 people sprung up
at breakneck speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide,
tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa Hutas
architects strove to construct the ideal city, with ironic inspira-
tion coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s New
York (that despicable western metropolis). Careful planning was
key, and the suburb was designed with efficient mutual control
in mind: wide streets would prevent the spread of fire and the
profusion of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while
the layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
What To See
Jump off a tram at Plac Centralny and find yourself at the
very nucleus of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central
Square is a masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the
brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of
irony, this Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name
was officially re-designated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004,
though speak to any local and youll still find it referred to as
Pl. Centralny. While this square serves as the focal point for
visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2) that Nowa Huta
is known for, not to mention named after. As Poland rebuilt
itself from near complete destruction after WWII, steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Krakws
Rynek on one state visit to Poland. Found on the end of al.
Solidarnoci the entrance to what is known as the Sendzimir
Steelworks has been given the full socialist makeover, with
two concrete monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings
of Poland. Youll hear the natives referring to this architectural
masterstroke as the Vatican, poking fun at the grandeur it
was meant to emulate. Ironically, the Steelworks are even
more less accessible to tourists than the Vatican, so you can
give up any ideas of getting past the main gates.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show-
case city, but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist
activity and played a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the
early 1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to build
the citys first church; though it took 28 years, The Lords Ark
(Koci Arka Pana) was finally consecrated in 1977. While
much of NH is the product of the last half century, a true
tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of much older
historical value. The most epitomising example of a pre-steel
age in the area has to be Wandas Mound a mysterious
prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas settlement
predates that of Krakws Old Town. The quiet communities
of Krzesawice and Mogia each hide pristine examples of
ancient Polish sacral architecture in the wooden churches
of St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan
Matejko enjoyed Krzesawice so much he used it as an art-
ist retreat as his preserved period manor house evidences.
Mogia meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished reli-
gious sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and
its morbidly miraculous cross. If youve more time to explore,
a walking or cycling tour of Mogias small back roads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the
German shepherds behind every garden fence.
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop) goes straight to Plac Centralny in about
20mins.
Getting to Nowa Huta
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and
Roses Avenue.
Churches
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl. Founded by Krakw bishop Iwo
Odrow who brought the Cistercians to Mogia from Silesia
in 1222, the present structure of this outstanding wooden
church dates from 1466. As the Church of St. Wenceslas
across the street was part of a monastic complex, St.
Batholomews was erected to accommodate the Catholic
layman, one of whom - master carpenter Maciej Mczka
- put his name and completion date on the door after build-
ing this enduring wooden treasure. Exceptional for its three
aisles - a rarity in wooden church architecture - the 18th
century belfry and beautiful domed entrance gate have also
been preserved. Unfortunately the interiors are currently off
limits, but its still at least worth taking a look at the exterior
architecture. Mogia is easily accessed from Plac Centralny
via trams 10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a
short walk south. Q During the summer tour guides actually
work here on Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Though its in Polish only, you can pick up some English
language info and have a look around.
Church of St. John the Baptist S-2, ul. Wakowicza,
tel. 12 642 15 84. Next door to Matejkos manor house,
this is one of two wooden churches in the area. Built between
1633 and 1648 in the village of Jaworniki in the mountains
on Polands eastern border with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition in the 1980s local authorities
surprisingly approved its transfer to Krzesawice as part of
a planned open-air folk architecture museum which never
came to be. A tower was added and the historic monument
took on new life as a place of worship, which continues today
with regular services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q
Open only during mass and by prior arrangement.
Cistercian Monastery
R- 5, ul . Kl asztorna 11,
www.mogila.cystersi.pl.
Located in what remains of
the sleepy village of Mogia
that Nowa Huta was plunked
down upon, the ancient Cister-
cian Monastery, with its two
adjoining churches, was the
closest place of worship to Plac Centralny until Arka Pana
Church (N-1) was finally consecrated in 1977. The vast and
splendid Holy Cross Basilica and the adjoining Cistercian
cloister, which date way, way back to 1266, are recognised as
among the most important religious buildings in Maopolska.
During the Renaissance the monastery was well known for its
master painters and the huge interior of Holy Cross Basilica
as well as the monastery library feature many fine works from
the period. Most importantly, Holy Cross Basilica also stores
the famous Cross of Mogia - the source of many miraculous
legends. Said to have been discovered when a blacksmiths
son jumped into the Wisa River to save what he thought to be
a drowning man floating downstream, the cross was brought
to the monastery and quickly began building a reputation for
miracles before cementing them when it was the only part
of the churchs furnishings not destroyed by the fire of 1447,
despite being made of wood. Christs hair and loincloth were
burned however, and ever since that time he has donned a
wrap of true fabric and a wig of real human hair. Weird. The
monastery is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams
10 and 16; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a short
walk south. Q Holy Cross Basilica open 06:00 - 20:00,
sightseeing between services only. On Sundays (when
services are most frequent) the best time to visit is from
14:00 - 16:00 when the gardens are also open.
Th e L o r d s Ar k
(Koci Arka Pana)
N- 1, ul . Obr ocw
Krzya 1, www.arkap-
ana.pl. Bui l t bet ween
1967 and 1977, Nowa
Hutas first house of wor-
shi p was desi gned by
Woj ci ech Pi etrzyk and
was pi eced t oget her
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance
from the communist authorities. The complete opposite
of what Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark
is a remarkable building, and a true symbol of the Polish
belief in Catholicism. With no outside help it was down to
the locals to mix cement with spades, and find the two
million stones needed for the churchs facade. The first
corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Woj tya,
who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the
discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as
some 5,000 mines and shells had to be carefully removed.
Finally, on May 15th 1977, the church was consecrated.
Built to resemble Noahs Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped
cruci fix rising from the middle, the church houses an array
of curious treasures, including a stone from the tomb of St.
Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing a fragment
of rutile brought back from the moon by the crew of Apollo
11, and a controversial statue of Christ that shows him
not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. I f you think
thats odd, check out the statue dedicated to Our Lady the
Armoured - a hal f metre sculpture made from ten kilograms
of shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the
Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church
became a focal point during anti-communist protests, not
least for the shelter it afforded the locals from the militia.
Protesting during the period of Martial Law was danger-
ous business, as proven by the monument dedicated to
Bogdan Wosik opposite the church. Wosik was shot in the
chest by security services, and later died of his injuries. His
death outraged the people, and his funeral was attended
by 20,000 mourners. The monument commemorating
the site of his death was erected in 1992 and is a tribute
to all those who died during this period. As recently as
September 2012, Krakw City Council awarded Arka Pana
the Cracoviae Merenti silver medallion for its signi ficance
to the citys history. Q Open 08:30 - 18:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Mate-
jki) S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74.
Located in Krzesawice - a charming village hidden just
one street behind Nowa Hutas arti ficial lake, here youll
find the small manor house with a wood shingle roof once
used as a workshop by Polands greatest 19th century
painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly ironic today, this
is where the artist went to escape the crude haste of li fe
in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an eminent
Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Polands
constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension
which would house his workshop. Inside guests will see
Matej kos famous Gall ery of Polish Ki ngs as well as
many illustrations, everyday items and period furniture.
Next door is the wooden Church of St. John the Baptist
- also worth seeing. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00 and by prior
arrangement. Closed Mon, Sun. Visits for groups of over
10 available by prior arrangement. Call (+48) 12 656 50
51. Admission 7/4z.
Jakub Haun
100
NOWA HUTA
in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of the
district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa Huta
is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never seen
anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rainbow motif
interior of this bar mleczny. If you think that cant be topped,
take a trip to the other end of the block to see the hideously
outdated interiors of the famous Stylowa Restaurant - one
of the only places to eat in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one
of the most exclusive restaurants in town, this place carries
on in the same spirit as the day it opened with an interior that
hasnt been updated in well over 30 years. Stop in Saturday
evening to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) T-4, Near intersec-
tion of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa. Though
construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Kopiec Wandy
is indisputable evidence that the history of the area goes
back much further. In fact, the village of Mogia, which Kopiec
Wandy is near the historical centre of, has been inhabited
since 5000 BC without interruption, while archaeologists
date the settlement of Krakws Old Town much later in the
8th century. Together with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze (K-5)
- Krakws other prehistoric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays
a role in one of Polands greatest archeaological mysteries
as the mounds date of construction, builders and function
all remain a subject of great speculation. Leading theories
suggest that both mounds were erected sometime between
the 6th and 10th centuries, by either the Slavs or the Celts,
as burial mounds or pagan cult sites; perhaps most likely is
that they were created as burial mounds which later became
cult sites. Though seemingly random within the layout of
modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds can hardly
be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec Wandy
on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be seen
setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station Kopiec
Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu-
ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve-
ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Krakws other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to men-
tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps.
Museum of the Armed Act (Muzeum Czynu Zbroj-
nego) O-1, os. Grali 23, tel. (+48) 696 72 91 25, www.
mczz.3-2-1.pl. An astonishing museum that doesnt trans-
late into English very well, find inside a series of dusty rooms
several touching exhibits dedicated to those who fought and
died for their nation and who were born in the Nowa Huta
area. In Polish only, most things on display might not mean
much to those lacking a healthy interest in the detritus and
paraphernalia of war, but its well worth popping in if only for
a look at the intriguing and grotesque models of life under
the Nazis during WWII. Youll know youve found it when you
see the Soviet tank out front. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2,
os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97
75, www.mhk.pl. This small museum features a series
of changing exhibitions relating to the li fe and culture of
the district, and is a requisite stop for anyone in the area.
Here you can also pick up plenty of information about NH,
and they arrange sightseeing tours of the district as well.
Q Open 09:30 - 17:00; closed Mon. From November open
09:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00; closed Mon. Admission
5/4z, family ticket 10z. Wed free.
Places of Interest
Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac Centralny
i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas architectural
layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary landmark and
one of social realisms highest architectural achievements in
PL, despite never being completed. The two main structures
of the square were to be the towering Town Hall (resembling
a mini PKiN) at the northern end and a colonnaded theatre
at the southern end, with an obelisk in between; though the
designs were in place, none saw development. Similarly, the
grand promenade linking them - Roses Avenue (Aleja R,
O-3) - was never fully realised, and terminates after a mere
four blocks, making it a fine example of your typical Stalinist
road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping into.
Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00.
Closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this
amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and
a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates.
The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such
its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street
to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Send-
zimir Steelworks. Experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one
of the worlds only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q Communism
Tour 129z per person.
Tours
LOCAL TOURS EXPERT
TYNIEC
KRAKW
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
ZAKOPANE
THERMAL POOLS WARSAW
AUSCHWITZ BIRKENAU
AIRPORT TRANSFERS
NOWA HUTA
www.discovercracow.eu
+48 12 346 38 99
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WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 5.30z,
or take bus 304 from the Dworzec Gwny Zachd
stop outside Galeria Krakowska near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or
one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-buses leaving from the
parking area near there at the corner of ul. Ogrodowa
and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3.50z, journey time 20-30mins.
Getting to Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist
cities in Eastern Europe, and as youve likely heard, one of
its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in
Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to the southeast. An
astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each
year (thats one out of every seven or eight visitors to Krakw),
and its hardly a recent phenomenonpeople have been visit-
ing the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including
Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and former
US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail
opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century.
But its not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the
love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey (see
Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine
as their number one favourite thing about Krakw; again, not
bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away. Not
only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinc-
tion of having been included (along with Krakws Old Town)
on UNESCOs first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you
know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial
heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and
if youre visiting Krakw, you should also consider the short
side trip out to Wieliczka, which in addition to the famous salt
mine, also boasts a health resort, castle and museum.
History
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfor-
tunately for those of us here today, the beaches are gone,
but left behind were some enormous salt deposits, shifted
hundreds of metres underground by tectonic movements.
Though cheap and universally accessible today, salt was
an extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to its
ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient sign of
wealth, salt was used as currency before there was money;
Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were said
to be worth their salt and the word salary comes from the
Latin word salarium used to describe their wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in
the regions surrounding Krakw can be traced back to the
middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of
underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the
rapid development of the area. Underground extraction
began in nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cit-
ies had earned municipal rights and by the end of the 13th
century the Cracow Saltworks was established to manage
both mines, with its headquarters in the Wieliczka castle
complex. One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown for the
next 500 years until the first partition of Poland in the 18th
century. Its heyday was the 16th and 17th centuries when it
employed some 2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000
tonnes and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was
further increased by mechanising the mining works with
steam and later electric machinery, and the first tourist route
was opened. By the 20th century however, over-exploitation
and neglect of necessary protection works had begun to
destabilise the mines condition and the market value of salt
no longer made it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction
of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite the
significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins, explosive
gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access shafts
and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had been
drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated
with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of
327m underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and
innovative engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
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AUSCHWITZ
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WIELICZKA
What to See
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Under-
ground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between theres an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if thats
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that the
mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you want to
endear the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz
Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable
bit of miners lingo effectively means God be with you and
substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs
(dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the first level 64m
underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to the first
three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms covered during
the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising a mere 1% of
this underground realm. While wandering the timber-re-enforced
tunnels youll gain insight from your guide into the history of
the site, the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives
of the men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive blocks
of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila). The tour
visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in which almost
everything around you is made from rock salt, including the tiled
floors, chandeliers, sculptures and stringy stalactites that hang
down. The highlight of the tour is the magnificent 22,000m
St. Kingas Chapel dating from the 17th century. Known for its
amazing acoustics, the chapel features bas-relief wall carv-
ings from the New Testament done by miners that display
an astonishing amount of depth and realism. After passing
a lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall
high enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at the
underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which point you
should be instructed on your two options: how to exit (option A)
or where and when to join the second part of the tour (option
B). If this option B is unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide
that you also want to see the Underground Museum and ask
them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the
right for those that want to continue on to the Underground
Museum (option B, which we heartily recommend). Your origi-
nal guide should admit you into the museum exhibition which
comprises an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed
full of artwork, artefacts and mining equipment which your
guide will elaborate on. Perhaps the most fascinating and
informative part of the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of
these beautiful exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th
century Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of
sparkling salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you
back to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to
where you started. Q Open 07:30 - 19:30. From November
open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission 75/60z. Taking photos is
an additional 10z. In addition to the popular Tourist Route
described above, several other routes are offered including
a handicap-accessible route, a route for children, and a new
interactive Miners Route in which tourists leave from the Re-
gis mine in work clothes accompanied by an English-speaking
guide, are assigned a role by the foreman and experience the
daily routines, rituals and secrets of working underground.
Miners Route open 10:00 - 18:00. From November open
10:00 - 14:30. Admission 76/64z.
Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum up Kra-
kowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, tel.
(+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl. From
the Daniowicza Shaft its a short, rather picturesque walk
to the Saltworks Castle, which served as the administrative
seat of the Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally built between
the 13th and 16th centuries, the castle was demolished
during World War II before being beautifully reconstructed
in 1984. The castle courtyard features the foundations of
the original oval-shaped defensive walls and a 14th century
tower that once housed a prison and shooting gallery. The
main building holds a museum documenting the history of
Wieliczka and the castle itself from its early beginnings to
modern times, local archaeological findings, a model of 19th
century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars from all over
the world, and other temporary exhibits. With little to no
information in English, the museum is hardly required visiting
but interesting enough to warrant the negligible entry fee if
you have time. Q Open 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
Admission 4/3z, family ticket 10 z. Guided tours in English
35z per person; must be booked at least 14 days in advance.
Underground Health Resort (Uzdrowisko Kopalnia
Soli) Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka, tel. (+48) 12 278 73
68, www.kopalnia.pl/uzdrowisko. With the market value of
table salt no longer being what it was in medieval times, today
the salt mine is most valuable for its health benefits (and tour-
ist dollars, of course). Given its perfect isolation from external
factors, the specific microclimate of the subterranean saline
chambers is completely bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in
healthy micro-elements such as sodium chloride, magnesium
and chloride. Such an environment is brilliant for anyone suf-
fering from asthma, bronchitis, lung inflammation, allergies or
recurrent nose, sinus or throat conditions. As such, the salt mine
also operates as a health resort offering a variety of single and
multiple day health treatments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel
Lake) and Stajnia Gr Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills)
saline chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals
and groups can participate in a number of organised breathing
exercises and walks, as well as music therapy (reservations
required). The health resort also offers innovative methods
for the treatment of serious respiratory ailments and a broad
range of modern medical services with professional medical
staff and equipment. More info can be found on their website.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Prices vary by season, treatment and length of stay. Check the
website for specific quotes.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented in
all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from fully
surrendering to their emotions only by the sheer relentless-
ness of the information. No matter how much you think you
know on the subject, the perspective gained by visiting is
incomparable. Whether or not you choose to go to Auschwitz
is up to you to decide. However it should be understood that
Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, Ger-
man concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site
of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should visit.
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and con-
fusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with di fferent designations, and excessive signage that
contradicts itsel f. This can be avoided by going as part of an
organised group tour, organised by a local tour company. I f
you are visiting independently however, or in a small group,
find the queue for the desk marked Individual Guests. Dur-
ing peak tourist season the museum makes it obligatory
to buy a ticket and become part of a guided tour unless
you get there before 10:00 (di fficult to do from Krakw)
or after 15:00; in the off season (November 1st - March
31st) it is also possible to explore the museum for free
without a guide regardless of the time. Be that as it may,
we strongly recommend the guided tour, which is excellent,
profound and professional; afterwards youll find it hard to
imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored
the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart most
frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in
German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. Tour departure
times change frequently; exact times can be seen online
at auschwitz.org.pl and it would be wise to look them up
before visiting. The museum makes a big effort to provide
the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in
languages other than those just mentioned can be easily
arranged i f done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your experi-
ence typically begins with a harrowing 20 minute film of
narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they
arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not
recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed year-
round however, in which case your tour of the camp begins
straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone
which you hear through your headphones.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves whether
or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a dif-
ficult question. There are few who would say they actually
want to visit Auschwitz, though many are compelled to do
so for their own reasons. For those of us who dont feel so
compelled, its easy to give reasons for not going: not having
enough time, already knowing as much as we need or want
to know about it, not feeling personally connected enough
to the site or the history to need to visit, or being uncomfort-
able about the prospect of visiting a site of such emotional
resonance at the same time as hundreds of other tourists.
Having been there, we can tell you that all of these explana-
tions for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly reasonable until
youve actually visited the site; youll be hard-pressed to find
anyone who has made the trip and still argues against going.
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways to get
to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be signing on for
a tour organised by a multitude of Krakw-based tour com-
panies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to ensure
everything goes smoothly; providing transportation, tickets
and general guidance, the organisational help of these
outfits can eliminate significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1);
most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not
all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up
at the Owicim bus station which is at the other end
of town. The journey takes 1hr 40mins and costs 14z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between Krakw
and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr 45mins - 1hr
55mins and a cost of about 16z; note, however, that
early trains to Owicim can be eerily crowded, particu-
larly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 24-
29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3z) from the
nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle visitors
between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15z. Waiting
minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour can take you back to
Krakw from either camp - a group of eight would pay
about 35-40z/person.
Getting to Auschwitz
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AUSCHWITZ
107
AUSCHWITZ
fectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death -
against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has
been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here
that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit
in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11
the Nazis conducted their first experiments with poison gas in
1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian
Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to
save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny
standing cells measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prison-
ers were held for indefinite amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare ac-
cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break before the bus leaves for Auschwitz-Birkenau II;
in order to stay with the same tour guide, you need to catch
that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food for the day
(though there is some limited food available at the museum).
The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours.
Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or you can walk
or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away. At Auschwitz
I there are restrooms (have change available), a fast food
bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facilities at Aus-
chwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide, it is
highly recommended that you pick up the official guidebook
(5z), whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing
any of the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the
numerous bookshops at both sites. Q Auschwitz I open
08:00 - 17:00. From November open 08:00 - 16:00. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau open 08:00 - 17:30. From No-
vember open 08:00 - 16:30. Last entrance 1.5 hours be-
fore closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language
guided tour of both camps costs 40/30z. Tours for
groups up to 10 people, 250z. For larger groups 300z.
The film costs 3.50/2.50z (included in the price of a
group tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included
in the price of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z..
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim, tel.
(+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Your tour of
Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of the infa-
mous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free) entrance
gate. [The original sign was actually made by inmates of the
camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on display after it was
stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern
Poland a few days after the theft.] From the entrance gate,
the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the
camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work,
before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview
of the creation and reality behind the worlds most notorious
concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original
architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B
used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most
disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined
for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the
scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign from
above the main entrance gate, cutting it into pieces and
abandoning it in the woods in northern PL; the sign has
been permanently replaced by a replica.
A Brief History
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org. Having completed the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer-
ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-buil t train tracks leading directl y into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand
side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the
penal colony and also the womens camp. At the far end
of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria,
as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a
comparabl y brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are
left to wander and reflect on their own before catching
the return bus to Auschwitz I.
Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town into
a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green spaces
and modern estates. Aside from normal German settlers
the town saw 7,000 SS serve here and they enjoyed a good
community life complete with coffee house, swimming
pool, kindergarten and a profusion of cultural events; at
one stage the Dresden State Theatre performed here. The
SS pub was housed in a building across from Owicim
train station, and its top floor was turned into a flat to
serve Himmler during his visits.
After the war, however, the hunt was on to find the people
who perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Ru-
dolf Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm
hand. Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas
chamber of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947. Others who faced
the hangmans noose included the head of the womens
camp, Maria Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick
Irma Grese, aka The Beautiful Beast. Adolf Eichmann was
the mastermind behind mass Jewish deportations in the
Eastern territories. Having fled to Argentina after the war
he was kidnapped by Mossad agents, before facing the
trial of the century in Israel in which he was sentenced to
hang. Josef Mengele, The Angel of Death, served as the
camp doctor at Auschwitz and supervised selections for
the gas chambers as well as brutal medical experiments
on children. He evaded justice and died in a swimming
accident in Brazil in the 1970s.
The Nazi Perpetrators
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum ydowskie)
Pl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
70 02, www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from
the Auschwitz museum maintains the towns restored
synagogue, shows a film with testimonies of Holocaust
survivors and offers a specially tailored programme for
those who call ahead. It also features a permanent exhibi-
tion on Jewish life in the town of Owicim before World
War II. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. From No-
vember open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 6z.
Jewish Centre
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TARNW
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TARNW
By Car
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all
directions and is worth considering as a place to stop off
for a few hours or even for the night if youre on a long jour-
ney. Only 80km from Krakw, thanks to the new (free!) A4
highway connecting the two cities, its an easy, hassle-free
drive to Tarnw that should take less than an hour; this
is certainly the best way to get to Tarnw. Near the centre
the most convenient place to park is ul. Bernardyska (E-4),
just southeast of the market square; from Pl. Sobieskiego
turn onto ul. Targowa (D-4) and then make your next left on
Bernardyska (D-5). Parking must be paid Mon-Fri 08:00-
18:00, Sat 08:00-15:00 (Sun free), with some complicated
math dictating the price depending how long you will be there
(for example: 1z/30mins, 2.50z/1hr, 5.10z/2hrs, 8z/3hrs,
after which its an additional 2.50z for every hour over 3, or
17z for the whole day). Buy a ticket from the kiosk, cross off
the proper time and from there the market square and tourist
info office are just one block to your north.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 30 or so trains every day from
Krakw, with a journey time of between 90 and 145 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train.
Main Train Station A- 6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48)
22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Following an extensive renovation, Tar-
nows train station reopened in November 2010, exactly
one hundred years after its original opening in November
1910. While fully modernised to include all the modern
passenger services youd expect (24-hour ticket window,
kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant), the original
character of the place has been retained, including Ed-
mund Cieczkiewiczs paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny
mountains which were funded by the early train owners
over a century ago. Walking to the centre only takes about
10mins up ul. Krakowska, while a taxi from outside the
station will cost about 7-10z.
Hotels
Bristol C- 4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enjoy a sumptuous
atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside Tarnws
most exclusive hotel. Bristols immaculate rooms come with
minibars, cable television, spacious beds and a choice of en
suite facilities with either a shower or bath. Extras include
plenty of elegant chandeliers, Doric columns that dont actu-
ally support anything, a solarium, gym and an outrageously
pink honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q17
rooms (4 singles, 5 doubles, 2 triples, 4 suites, 2 apart-
ments). PTHAFGKW hhhh
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.
hotelujana.pl. An excellent choice, with 12 apartments
boasting views of the market square, all at a great value
with prices varying based on size and standard. Where
they get all these oil paintings is beyond comprehension,
but theres a barrage of them on the ground floor and youll
find some in your quarters as well. Suites are stylised quite
tastefully to represent the Renaissance history of the build-
ing, with large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and
modern facilities including satellite television and wifi. Its
an unbeatable location, the downstairs restaurant is more
reliable than many in the area as well, and now theres a new
billiards room to keep you busy. Q12 rooms (12 apartments).
THA6GKW
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the
Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes
by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler
plays Tarnws hejna - a short traditional melody -
every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Craco-
vian cousin, the Old Town is still interesting enough to
warrant a good investigation, and includes a fairly well
preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining
defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hug-
ging its northern edge and featuring several interesting
buildings as well as a number of monuments. In the
spring and summer the Rynek comes to li fe with tables
and chairs from the multitude of cafes and bars (and
surprisingly few restaurants) lining it and has a warm
and welcoming appeal.
Rynek & The Old Town
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size, Tarnw
is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many of the
same cultural and architectural charms without the crushing
crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd men-
tality that unfortunately come along with a tourist market the
size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers tourists the
comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural
intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a
well-preserved medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious
cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall, and many
pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors will discover several
unique and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic
cemeteries, castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as
dozens of artistic and historical monuments at every turn.
Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra
motivated to visit Tarnw due to its deep Jewish heritage,
many traces of which are still in evidence today in the citys
evocative Jewish district and large Jewish Cemetery. While
the towns nightlife may not have the sizzle of Krakw, there
are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of
which we list here, where youll find it easy to meet friendly
local folks who are proud of their city and eager to present
a good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition
to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat from Krakw,
Tarnw also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth
of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at
Dbno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia.
Youll find more information on Tarnw and all the surround-
ing area has to offer on our website, but make sure you also
pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information office
when you arrive for more insights and to pick up a copy of
our special Tarnw mini-guide.
Getting to Tarnw
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well
as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by
road. A good network of train and bus services running in
and out of the city centre also link Tarnw with many major
destinations throughout Poland. The nearest airport is
Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour,
wi th the first l eaving as earl y as 06:35 and the last bus
back to Krakw departing at 21:45. In addi tion to stan-
dard PKS service (which can be unreliable), Voyager also
makes the trip, as do mini buses, whi ch depart across
from the bus stati on. The j ourney takes between 1hr
15mins and 2hrs.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1. Offering almost
nothing in the way of services or facilities aside from a currency
exchange (kantor), toilets downstairs, and a few kiosks selling
mobile top-up vouchers and snacks. Dont be duped by the
ticket windows, they only sell monthly passes and local fares,
which goes a long way towards explaining why everyone just
buys their tickets from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you
need cash youll have to go to the train station next door. To
get into town, find taxis parked outside, which will take you to
the Rynek for 7-10z. Bus N9 can be caught on ul. Krakowska
(buy a 15min ticket for 2.20z from one of the nearby kiosks),
and heads east along the same street before peeling right and
skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into
the centre takes about 10 minutes. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00.
Voyager, tel. (+48) 18 353 00 00, www.voyager-
transport.pl. Voyager is perhaps the best firm offering
regular and reliable service between Tarnw and Krakw.
Buses are comfortable, and run as frequently as at least one
per hour. The journey takes 1hr 15mins, and costs 15/9z.
Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
111
110
TARNW
Eat & Drink
Cafe Tramwaj (Tram Cafe) D-4, Pl. Sobieskiego 2, tel.
(+48) 503 37 23 29. Its been over 70 years since streetcars
graced the streets of Tarnw, but this antique tram parked
on Plac Sobieskiego takes tourists and locals back in time to
Tarnws golden era, when electrified public transport was
a symbol of the citys stature. Capturing the spirit of the old
days (the good ones, mind you) this authentic wood-trimmed
and furnished tram car full of sepia postcards and inter-war
souvenirs is the perfect place to meet for coffee, a slice of
cake and a conversation. Its also a free wifi hotspot, which is
hardly taken for granted in this town. If you can score one of the
limited number of tables, youll be happy you did. QOpen 06:30
- 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. P6GSW
Soprano C-5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621
09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given
up on having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our
appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional
Italian cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The soups are delicious and come with
fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with red currant sauce
(42z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money you
can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still a heck of a
bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (18-42z). PTAUGBSW
NEW
Winiarnia Lippczy Pince Pl. Kazimierza Wielkiego 2
(entrance from Pasa Tertila), tel. (+48) 14 622 24 82,
www.tokaji.pl. Named in honour of Norbert Lippczy - nota-
ble folk art collector, philanthropist and founder of the Tarnw
Friends of Hungary Society - this hidden restaurant celebrates
the citys bond with Hungary by offering the trademarks of that
countrys cuisine - foremost among them goulash and wine
from the Tokaj region; a 600ml crucible (enough for two people)
of the house goulash can be had for only 19z, and bottles of
Tokaj (of which there are dozens) run from roughly 30-55z a
bottle. Thats not all, however, with a delicious duck fillet and
freshwater fish entrees, plus Hungarian meats, cheeses and a
variety of peppers also on hand. Located in a finely refurbished
red brick and burgundy cellar with vaulted ceilings and a huge
reproduction of Matejkos Prussian Homage on the wall, this
place is not only exceedingly affordable, but one of the citys
more elegant dining destinations. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, Sun
13:00 - 21:00. (22-56z). AGS
Sightseeing
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45
01, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the
14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th
and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativ-
ity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one
of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate as one of
the most impressive parish churches in Poland. Of note is
the 16th-century portal, the impressive several-metre-long
monuments to the Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a num-
ber of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre
tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost in one
of Tarnws many rambling back streets. Some nice recent
additions are also evident, including the fabulously ornate
sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the building.
QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No visiting dur-
ing mass please.
Ethnographi c Museum
(Muzeum Etnograficzne)
C-5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel.
(+48) 14 622 06 25, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. As well as
hi ghli ghting l ocal ethnographi c
t r adi t i ons, t hi s bet ter t han
average col l ecti on i ncl udes
a l arge cel ebrati on of Roma
(Gypsy) cul ture, whi ch is all eg-
edl y the onl y such coll ection in
Europe. A trul y fasci nati ng, i f
sli ghtl y dated, exhi bi tion trac-
ing Roma cul ture in Poland from i ts beginnings in the
15th century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and
beyond, the three rooms that make up the exhi bi ti on
i ncl ude some excell ent maps, model s, costumes and
photographs, all of whi ch are best seen wi th the ai d of
a small and very good bookl et, The Gypsies, wri tten by
the museums curator Adam Bartosz and availabl e i n
English for j ust 3z. There are still about 350 Roma li ving
in Tarnw, and their cul ture is still very much ali ve. In the
museums back garden youll find several tradi tionall y
painted gypsy caravans. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Cl osed Mon, Sat.
Admission 8/5z. Sun free.
Town Hall Museum (Ratusz) D- 4, Rynek 1, tel.
(+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth a
visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordinary
collection over two floors includes glass, porcelain and
silver, and the most extensive collection of 18th-century
Sarmatian portraits in the country. Two new permanent
exhibits have also been added: the Hunters Armoury and
the Sarmatian Armoury. Sarmatism, i f youre wondering,
was a beguiling infusion of li festyle, culture and ideology
that predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th
century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief
that Poles were descended from a loose confederation
of ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over
the centuries from a set of values based on paci fism into
a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback
riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish
Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The
Town Hall Tower can also be ascended i f arranged ahead
of time, and offers panoramic views for an extra 10z. Q
Open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 -16:00.
Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 8/5z, family ticket 15z. Sun
free. A special sweetheart ticket good for the Town Hall,
District Museum and Ethnography Museum is available for
the paltry price of 12/7z.
TYSKIE
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.
Mikoowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy, tel.
(+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.pl. The Tyskie
Browary Ksice, in the town of Tychy (German Tichau) some
10km south of Katowice has been brewing beer continuously
for nearly 400 years. And because of its Silesian location it has
witnessed a number of historic events over the years with its
own history reflecting that of the region. The originally German-
owned brewery now produces the famous Tyskie Gronie,
Polands best selling beer, and Tyskie Browary Ksices (or
just Tyskie) impressive ensemble of buildings also includes
a superb little museum which is open to the public for tours.
Taking about 2.5 hours and led by a friendly and informative,
English-speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through
the entire brewing process. Starting in the immaculately pre-
served Old Brewery, a masterpiece of original decorative tiles
and old copper vats installed during WWI that have had modern
brewing equipment cleverly put inside them, the tour follows
the brewing process from start to finish and also offers a fas-
cinating insight into the history of the factory. Highlights include
the so-called Bachelors Quarters and the saucy tales that go
with them, a glimpse of the brewerys own railway station and,
across the road, a look inside the fabulously fragrant bottling
plant. Now producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze an-
nually (or to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half
litre bottles and laid them end to end youd have a line of beer
80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded inside the
superb Brewery Museum, complete with interactive displays in
English and housed inside a red brick neo-Gothic church built
in 1902. Tours must be booked in advance, and yes, theres a
tasting session at the end. The tours are conducted in Polish,
English, German, Spanish, French, Italian, Czech, Russian and
in the local Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what
that might sound like). The museum building also houses the
local City Museum, which is well worth having a look inside if
youve got the time, while the town itself is also worth explor-
ing to properly cap your trip to Tychy.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. Last entrance 2,5 hours before closing. Visitors
must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a place
on the tour. Admission 12/6z.
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
Getting There
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of the
most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first port of
call on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of free informa-
tion on Tarnw and the surrounding region, free internet
(browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle rental and
theres even accommodation available upstairs. If youre
interested in a gadget-led tour, there are nine different mp3
audio tours of the main sights for hire, in addition to a GPS
guide called Navigo City Tour. The friendly, knowledgeable
and enthusiastic English-speaking staff, can give you a
better idea of what that is, plus whatever information or
advice you cant find in this guide, so dont be shy.QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information
113
LEISURE
112
LEISURE
once covered the entire region. A humid greenhouse hides
all manner of exotic flora, including a macabre collection of
carnivorous plants, while a series of outdoor classical music
concerts takes place in the warmer months. A great place
for romantic rendezvous or finding some peace and quiet.
Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Greenhouses open 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Fri. Closed from October 21. Admission 6/3z. 12z
family ticket available on weekends.
Krakw Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa
14 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-
krakow.pl. First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological gar-
den has grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals of
almost 300 species, but still manageable in size. Most of the
exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting of the surrounding
Wolski Forest - making this a great sunny day activity - and
theres surprisingly little to get depressed about. Among the
rare, exotic and endangered species youll see are Indian
elephants, pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions,
camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array
of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite). Theres also a
petting zoo, snack bar for when youre hungry and ice cream
vendors so your kids have something totally unnecessary
to nag you about. Bus 134 leaves from Stadion Cracovia
(ul. Kauy, H-3) and drops you off at the entrance. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00. From November 09:00 - 16:00. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10z.
Stani s aw Lem Sci ence Gar den (Ogr d
Dowiadcze) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. A fun, interactive
educational park for kids named after late, local sci-fi author
Stanisaw Lem. The 7 hectare park features different stations
engaging kids in optical illusions and the laws of physics.
Explanations are in English and Polish, and guides (English)
are available for an additional 15z if you call three days in
advance. Reserve 90 minutes to visit the park in its entirety
and get there from the centre via trams 1, 14 or 22 getting off
at the M-1/Al. Pokoju stop. Q Open 08:30 - 15:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed from November. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 8/5,50z, children under
7 free. Family ticket 22z. Combined ticket for the Science
Garden and the City Engineering Museum 11/8z. Cash only.
Spa & Beauty
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa, tel. (+48) 503 63 39
03, www.book-a-balance.pl. This mobile spa service
brings the pampering straight to you. Qualified and experi-
enced professionals arrive at your apartment or hotel room
with all the necessary equipment to make you feel like royalty,
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the num-
ber one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared
more for those looking for outdoor activities on a beautiful
day, or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Craco-
vians are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the
fact that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun
is out and features several unique green spaces, particularly
the Planty and Bonia (see Outdoor Attractions), the latter of
which is home to an ice rink in winter. Other highlights include
Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which is home to Kociuszko
and Pisudski Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides
plenty of hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting
out of town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec and
Ojcw (both of which you can expect to be packed on sunny
weekends), or mountains excursions to the Beskidy and Ta-
tra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an especially popular
destination for skiing in winter and hiking in the summer. Use
the listings below to keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Laser Park I-4, ul. Zabocie 20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01
30, www.laserpark.pl. Run amuck in the industrial waste-
land around Schindlers Factory known as Zabocie dodging
laser beams and zapping adversaries. Laser Arena uses a
computer system to register hits from the virtual bullets in
a safe, simulated gunfight within this highly unique setting.
Prices are complex and as follows: Mon-Thu 25/20z for
30mins, 40/35z for 60mins; Fri-Sun 35z for 30mins, 55z
for 60mins. Groups (10 players minimum) Mon-Thu 400z,
Fri-Sun 600z. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00.
WRT Karting ul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from ul.
Makuszynskiego, Bieczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70 61,
www.wrt-karting.pl. Spin your wheels around this 250 metre
indoor go-karting course north of Nowa Huta. 8mins of track
time is 22z, 16mins is 39z, 24mins 55z. You can get there
by hopping on bus 182 at the bus station (Dworzec Gwny
Wschd stop) and getting off over 20 stops later at Nowolipki
(note that you may have to request this stop). QOpen 14:00 -
23:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Bike Rental
Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48) 12
430 20 34, www.cooltourcompany.com. The biggest
bike rental in Krakw offers you a range of options, including
road bikes and beach cruisers, bikes for kids and even olde
school penny farthing or modern Dutch Stepper bikes: 10z/
hr, 40z for 5 hours, or 50z for the whole day. Or go for the
tandem for double the price. 100z and ID deposit required.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00.
Two Wheels (Dwa Koa) D-6, ul. Jzefa 5, tel. (+48)
12 421 57 85, www.dwakola.internetdsl.pl. Excellent
quality city and mountain bikes for rent: 3hrs/20z, 5hrs/30z,
one day/40z. Deposit 100z. Prices are negotiable if you
wish to rent for longer than a day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Bowling & Billiards
Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,
www.cuebar.pl. Krakws first proper billiards bar, Cue Bar
takes it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too
seriously. Eight tables in total: three professional snooker
tables (18z/hr), two eight-foot pool tables and three nine-
foot pool tables in the attic (15-17z/hr). And beer, of course.
Call if youre interested in tournaments or private lessons.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:30. W
Hotel Wilga I-5, ul. Przedwionie 16, tel. (+48) 12 294
44 29, www.hotelwilga.pl. The only hotel in Krakw with a
bowling alley, and since the closing of Fantasy Park, one of the
only places you can go bowling in town. Located in Podgrze,
Wilga offers two slightly wonky lanes, billiards, foosball and
a small bar in its basement, which is ideal for small private
parties. Reserve in advance to ensure availability. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. Bowling 30-60z/hr. Billiards 10z.
The Stage B-1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63
85, www.the-stage.pl. Probably Krakws most atmospher-
ic billiards club, The Stage is much more than just a pool hall.
Theres a full kitchen serving quality international cuisine and in
the evenings this laid-back hangout features a range of events
including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band as
locals rack em up on the seven handsome billiards tables in
front of the street-side windows. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Cost
of a table ranges between 5-20z depending on time of day.
Golf
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club Ochmanw 124,
Pode, tel. (+48) 12 281 91 70, www.krakowgolf.
pl. A nine hole golf course located close to the Royal Jagiel-
lonian Hunting Grounds (Puszcza Niepoomicka) 18km east
of Krakw. A clubhouse and restaurant overlook the double
green 9/18 and the course is popular with both beginners
and experienced golfers. Includes indoor driving ranges, and
an indoor simulator open when the outdoor course is closed
for the season. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Horse Riding
Stadnina Podskalany ul. Podskalany 61, Tomaszo-
wice, tel. (+48) 606 91 50 09, www.stadnina.podska-
lany.pl. Trail-riding, natural horsemanship instruction, and
riding lessons offered for beginners and experienced riders,
in groups or individually. Located in the picturesque Jura High-
lands just 10km northwest of Krakw. Q Lessons can be ar-
ranged by calling ahead. Prices are 35z/40mins for individual
beginners, 55z/hr for advanced, 35z/hr for group instruction.
Outdoor Attractions & Parks
AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar
Woyski, tel. (+48) 511 80 22 02, www.hiflyer.pl. If you
find yourself across from Wawel on the opposite banks of the
Vistula River and fancy a slightly more adrenaline-pumping
way to a panoramic view, take a scenic ride in this massive
balloon. Rising to a height of up to 150 meters, youll have
about fifteen minutes to snap photos and overcome your
acrophobia. Possibly in a move to appease some of the
critics who consider it an eyesore, the balloon has I love
Poland and I love Krakow written on opposite sides of it
in enormous Polish writing. Come well before dusk, bring your
student card if youve got one and youll be hard-pressed to
find a better view of Krakow. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00 and oc-
casionally later (call to confirm). Note that the balloon
may not be able to fly in bad weather. Call in advance if
there is any doubt. Admission: Mon-Fri 38/20z, students
with proper ID 25z, family ticket 90z. Sat-Sun 45/25z, family
ticket 100z (no student discounts on weekends).
Botanical Garden J-2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48)
12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Covering almost
10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical gardens date from
1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing daytime escape from
the city. Extensive flora-filled paths wind between fountains,
herb and rose gardens, lillypadded ponds, and a 250-year-
old oak tree - the last remnant of primeval forests which
ensuring that you literally dont have to lift a finger beyond
making the call. Offering a range of massages (110-200z)
and beauty treatments (80-150z). Q Available 7 days a
week between 08:00 and 22:00.
Vanilla SPA H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl. This
luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star Niebieski hotel
is a palace of pampering for your mind and body thanks to a
variety of holistic treatments in relaxing environs. Spoil your
skin through a series of peels and masks using top of line
cosmetics and munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of
the Vanilla Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam
bath, and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to
have the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Swimming & Diving
Krakw Water Park (Park Wodny) L-1, ul. Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.parkwodny.
pl. The biggest indoor pool complex in Poland includes 800
metres of water slides for all ages, dragon and pirate play areas,
massage fountains, climbing walls, wave machines, swings and
other in-water activites, this incredible aquatic playground is
the thing your kid will remember most about Krakw. You wont
have such a bad time yourself with access to saunas, jacuzzis,
fitness and wellness centres and a pool-side cafe from which
you can watch your little terrors try to dunk each other. Prices
to the pool vary but are in the range of 12-23z for one hour, and
37-54z for day access. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Bonia Meadow G-3. A massive and inexplicably
undeveloped tract of greenery directly west of the Old
Town, the Bonia is a huge, triangular open space mea-
suring nearly 50 hectares. Technically a park, although
lacking any trees or other defining characteristics, the
Polish name Bonie denotes a meadow - something of
an amiable linguistic redressing of the Bonias true and
unchanged historical function: its a cow pasture. The
areas ability to survive to modern times as the largest
city centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a
perfect storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long
ownership dispute, and finally a medieval legislative
wrinkle. Used by locals to graze cattle even midway into
the 20th century, when the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel
was built next to it in 1965 the city moved to permanently
ban unfashionable bovines from the Bonia, only to find
themselves obstructed by an apparently still legally
binding 14th century decree by Queen Jadwiga which
they would have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not
being the most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic
partner in those times, city council decided to stick with
the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to
air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines
on the Bonia, tell the mayor to get in touch with my
agent for more details), these days youll find the green
triangle has primarily become the favourite leisure space
of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball playing owners,
while the perimeter is a popular track for cycling, running
and roller-blading. Protected as a National Heritage Site
since 2000, the Bonia is ideal for large-scale outdoor
events, hosting numerous concerts, rallies and - most
notably - historic open air masses by the Pope during
his visits to Krakw.
Bonia Meadow
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre
E- 4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. (+48)
12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.
pl. Authentic Thai massages: improve
blood and limphatic circulation, re-
lease physical and mental tension,
strengthen the immune system, improve flexibility of
joints, remove toxins. Performed solely by highly qualified
Thai masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok.
The offer: Classical Thai massage, Herbal compresses,
Relaxing massage with essential oils, Massage for
the physically active, Feetnlegs reflexology, Back &
shoulders & head massage etc. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 100-300z.
114
SHOPPING
While Krakw cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in
the traditional sense, its artsy reputation makes it a great
place to pick up antiques, artwork and jewellery. Areas of
note include Kazimerz and the open air markets - particularly
Plac Targowy (Hala Targowa, E-4). For typical Cracovian
souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the centre of the main
square (C-3): find all manner of glasswork, lace, amber,
wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the
generic western experience you can hit one of the shopping
malls we list, however throughout this section weve made a
concentrated effort to focus not on recognised, international
brands and franchises, but unique, home-grown businesses;
so we encourage you to put your money where their mouth is.
As this is PL, remember most shops close early on Saturday
and take Sunday off altogether.
Alcohol & Tobacco
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka
(and maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been
distilling and draining vodka since the early Middle Ages,
and Poland can make a legitimate claim as the spirits
primordial homeland. As such, you should put it at the top
of your souvenir list, even if its not to your taste. You cant
walk a block in this city without passing a church and an
alcohol shop, so youve you r choice of temples. Belvedere
and Chopin are the elite brands youll find in fancy gift sets,
but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass vodka), Krupnik
(herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka (bitter stomach
vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature gold flakes. Thats
quite a shopping list.
Strefa Piwa (Beer Zone) I-2, ul. Krowoderska 37,
www.strefa-piwa.pl. Next to the solid bar of the same
name, this is your go-to place in Krakw for buying and
sampling a wide-range (were talking hundreds) of delicious
beers from all over the world. QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka
9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Huge se-
lection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinths decanted
from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles make for
ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or go ghetto
fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your luggage
(or strolling the Planty). Sample first, sample often. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 19:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. An elite and elabo-
rate selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar
13, where you can sample a vast majority of them. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Below weve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/
or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list:
Girlfriend/Wife:Two words: jewellery and chocolate.
For the first choose a beautiful piece of Baltic gold from
World of Amber, and for the second head to Cracow
Chocolate Factory for some local sweets that are both
artistic and delicious.
Boyfriend/Husband:I f you really want to spoil your
man, head to Wittchen and outfit him in a luxury leather
jacket, or perhaps something more practical and afford-
able like a hand-made wallet. If hubby has a taste for
tipples, head to Szambelan where you can decant one
of their exclusive meads, absinthes or flavoured vodkas
into a handsome gift bottle.
Mother:Amber always wins with women, so stop at
World of Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud
to wear. All moms also love Bolesawiec folk pottery, so
head to Dekor Art.
Father:As a man matures he needs a good hat, no?
The Chory hatmakers workshop has a surprisingly
stylish assortment of hand-made hats that would look
great on Dad. Or try Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy
for something old, odd and aesthetic that might be more
Dads style. If that fails, try what the Poles do when things
arent working out: vodka.
Sister:The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman
on your list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and
cosmetics of Produkty Benedyktyskie. If sis is a bit of
a bookworm, head to Massolits Polish literature section
to pick out something of local interest.
Brother:For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their
collection of locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other
urban gear. I f your brothers more of an intellectual,
search for a unique 3-player chess set, or fine-crafted
traditional chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth Hall.
If the young mans an artist, pick out an avant-garde
Polish film or theatre poster from the vast collection at
Galeria Plakatu.
Children:Historically, childhood innocence hasnt been
a very long-lived developmental stage amongst Poles.
Apparently a privilege of the rich, what few toys there
are for sale in PL are outrageously expensive compared
to everything else. If the kids are infants, head straight
to Bajo for some locally-made wooden toys or Galeria
Bukowski for a Cracovian teddy bear.
Grandparents:The land of babcias has plenty that
will please the old folks back home, including linen
and lacework from the Cloth Hall, Bolesawiec folk
ceramic from Dekor Art or local jarred foodstuffs from
Krakowski Kredens.
Gift Shopping At a Glance
PLs famous Bolesawiec pottery.
Local art market along ul. Pijarska
SIMPLY
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FACTORY OUTLET CENTRE:
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116
SHOPPING
117
SHOPPING
Ksigarnia Hetmaska C- 3, Rynek Gwny 17,
tel. (+48) 12 430 24 53, www.hetmanska.inf o.
Pasa Hetmaska is home to several shops, including a
Polish-language bookstore, a record store which also sells
posters, patches, t-shirts and other music paraphernalia,
as well of plenty of other souvenir vendors. To your right
as you enter is a bookshop selling books in English (and
a small selection in German), as well as maps, posters
and an unnecessary amount of puzzles. Though hardly
expansive, the book selection is the best on the market
square. Guidebooks also available and the prices are fair.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Massolit Books & Caf A- 4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best
English-language bookstore in Central Europe, owing in
large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With books on
all subjects and specialising in Polish, East European and
Jewish literature in English, here youll also find recent
English language periodicals (store copies) to peruse over
coffee and a slice of pie, or even a glass of wine. Stocked
with remaindered books from the States, the selection is
surprisingly good, and the prices are the best youll find
anywhere. This legendary establishment has been long-
running but constantly needs and deserves support. Still
i f youre on a budget you can trade the novel you finished
on the train for credit towards a new one. QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
Chory Caps & Hats D-7, ul. Krakowska 35a, tel.
(+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Maybe
you arent aware, but Polish old man hats are surprisingly
stylish and this family shop is where to get one. Affectionately
known as the Hat Guy, give Jzef the hatmaker a head
and hell hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat. Bring
in your own fabric and hell even custom make one for you.
With Jzefs name and his shops Cracovian address sewn
into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake;
evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing. And theyre a
bargain. Jzef doesnt speak English, but there shouldnt be
much mystery between the two of you; its not like youre
trying to draft legislation - its a hat, hes a hat guy. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
IDEA FIX Concept Store E-7, ul. Bocheska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 12 46, www.ideafix.pl. The idea here is
promoting contemporary, young, independent Polish artists
and designers - and for once were not talking about painted
angels or folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with
an alternative urban chic style and attitude that will hope-
fully encourage Krakws hundreds of DJs to pick up their
duds somewhere other than H&M. Championing sustain-
able consumption, drop in this expansive and sexy 230m2
concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check out clothing and
accessories by independent local designers, Polish films and
music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and more. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of Polands
top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality hand-made
leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand bags, gloves,
wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with a hologramed
Certificate of Authenticity proving its the real deal. Carried
at many shops around Krakw, visit one of the shopping
malls to see their company showroom. Also at ul. Podgrska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka
City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Art & Antiques
Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to
tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska
on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if
you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and
of a potentially high value, youll need the proper paperwork
and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper
dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There i s no shor tage of possi bi l i ti es for purchasi ng
anti ques i n Krakw. Serious shoppers will find that the
best i tems end up in the anti que stores (Antyki, Antyk-
wariat) that abound all over Kazimi erz and the Ol d Town
wi th one of the best places to prowl for l ost treasure
bei ng ulica Jzefa (D/E-6) in Kazimi erz. Knowl edgeabl e
deal ers of fer pri ces comparabl e to those in the rest of
Europe, however there are still bargains apl enty in the
ci tys markets i f your interest is more in finding an odd
souvenir whil e having a uni que cul tural experi ence than
finding an undervalued 19th century artefact. Plac Nowy
(D-6) is home to dail y j unk-peddl ers, but the real bounty
is reveal ed during Plac Targowys Sunday morning fl ea
market (E-4) where every pi ece of trash has a pri ce and
haggling is compulsory.
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery C-2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel.
(+48) 12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. These anti-
establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny cartoons
by Polands favourite cartoonist Andrzej Mleczko are bound
to remind you of someone you know (if you speak Polish,
that is). Ideal for Polish friends and family, here you can buy
prints, mugs, shirts, underwear, mouse pads and more.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C- 3, ul. Sto-
larska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cra-
cowpostergallery.com. Poland has a proud tradi tion
of graphic poster art for film and theatre. Here you can
browse binders of desi gns for di f ferent plays, various
propaganda and alternative film posters you never knew
existed for your favourite flicks. Many are in stock and
many more available to order. They make fantastic gi fts
and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying a stack of unusual
postcards. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Krakowski Antykwari at Naukowy C- 2, ul .
Sawkowska 6/8, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 43, www.
antkrak.krakow.pl. The qui ntessenti al Cracovi an
anti que bookshop ( ant ykwari at ), t hi s out f i t buys
and sel l s ol d pri nts, maps, graphi c ar t, manuscri pts,
postcards, books, l etters and more. Ri ng the bel l and
head upstai rs. QOpen 10: 00 - 18: 00, Sat 10: 00 -
14: 00. Cl osed Sun.
Books in English
Austeria E-6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48)
12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in the historical
High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore
in Krakw, offering literature, history, guide books and
more in a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist
information. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving
historical exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission
to the exhibit, 9/6z. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Krakws open-air markets are the best places to get
cheap local produce and the only places in the centre
where you can buy vegetables that arent white. Add to
that meats, cheeses, spices, baked goods, doorknobs,
dog leashes, pagers, potholders and literally anything
else you can think of and youve got yoursel f a ni fty
cultural experience as well. In addition to the legendary
Cloth Hall on the market square (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00), practice your Prosz and point skills at the
unique shopping environments listed below.
Keep in mind that while haggling might work at Plac
Targowys Sunday flea market, its uselessly rude at any
of the daily market stalls. Expecting vendors to break a
100 zoty note will also be met with utter disdain.
Plac Nowy D-6, tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59, www.
placnowy.pl. This historic square was a Jewish market
in the pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In the
open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse produce
and junk are sold daily. Its a different, often unpredictable
scene on the square each morning, but Saturdays are
generally reserved for more junk/antiques and Sundays
for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday mornings its a
full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of the most
bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness if you arrive
early enough (ends about 8:00). Markets begin around
5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to mid-
afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined
with atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Unitarg
E- 4, ul. Grzegrzecka,
tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55,
www.unitarg.krakow.
pl. The citys best outdoor
market, Hala Targowa is
open every day for every-
thing from frui t, fl owers
and produce to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and
cheap wristwatches. Morning is the best time to come
and Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to
hit the stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling
flea market of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village
detritus, vinyl records, war memorabilia, mismatched
shoes, stolen bikes and pretty much anything you can
dream of at bargain prices. Different vendors set their
own hours, but on weekends most are here shortly after
dawn and packing up between 14:00 and 15:00; on
weekdays about 18:00. At night on Plac Targowy youll
find 2 24-hour alcky shops and the best grilled kielbasa
in town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel.
(+48) 12 634 15 32, www.starykleparz.com. A
tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered, open-air
marketplace just north of the Barbakan offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local produce,
fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices, socks,
sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the
order of the day during your visit. They say they are
open until 18:00, but most stalls will have closed up
much earlier. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Markets
Herbal vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in
Poland. Poland is renowned for its amber and the crafts-
men who handsomely shape the fossilised resin into
unique and coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from
PL without bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve
booked yourself a stint in the doghouse. The best place
to begin is the Cloth Hall in the center of the market
square, where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit
any of the many galleries around the Old Town.
NEW
Amber Museum & Laboratory C-3, ul. Jana 2,
tel. (+48) 513 511 512, www.ambermuseum.eu.
Just off the market square, the new flagship location
of this trusted amber brand includes a small, free mu-
seum displaying unique pieces of amber art, plus info
about its origin and history as part of Polish culture. In
addition, theres a full Boruni shop (open 09:00 - 20:00)
and even a spectroscope that measures the purity of
amber. If you want to take a more intimate look at amber
while in Cracow, this is the place to do it. Other Boruni
shop locations inside the Cloth Hall (C-3, stand numbers
23, 29, 36), at ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5), and in Crown Piast
Hotel (ul. Radzikowskiego 109). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48)
12 430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at ul.
Floriaska 13 and 22 (C-3), ul. Powile 7 (A-5, Sheraton
Krakw), and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center).
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Like the Czech koda and
the East German Trabant,
the Pol i sh Mal uch has
served several purposes
during its lifetime; a God-
send for families behind
the Iron Curtain, source of
amusement for smirking
foreigners and now, as a
cult icon for nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports
have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to danger-
ously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels
is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in Bielsko-Biaa and
Tychy, the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license
with its official title being the Polish Fiat 126p. Its diminutive
size earned it the moniker of Maluch (Little One), a name so
widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened
the brand in 1997. When first produced in June 1973 it was
priced at 69,000z (approximately three times the average
annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Po-
land, despite being the size of a small refrigerator. Through-
out communist times the car could only be purchased by
joining a lengthy waiting list, though diligent workers would
often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to
jump the queue. Though production came to a halt in 2000,
the surprisingly reliable cars have achieved a remarkable
staying power, and youll still find scores of them coughing
smoke as they zip around Polish cities. Today a used Maluch
retails for about 300-500z, so theres little stopping you
from becoming a proud owner yourself.
The Maluch
Christophe Gruszka
118
SHOPPING
119
SHOPPING
Gifts & Souvenirs
Its only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
its common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge
souvenir market, in the packed stalls youll find all sorts of
Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood,
lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market
the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair,
so theres no shame in shopping there. Below weve listed
more unique local or national Polish businesses where you
can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are
spending your money at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42,
www.bajo.eu. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiel-
lonian University professor Woj ciech Bajor, this company
aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any
of the flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the
computer age are already overl y inundated wi th these
days. Ranging from colourful vehicles and animals to edu-
cational blocks, all of Bajos toys are artistically designed
entirely out of wood. Ideal for infants and young children
and entirely Cracovian. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12 284
15 67. The tag team of Dekor Art and Mila across the street
make ul. Sawkowska Krakws official Bolesawiec shopping
corridor. If youre not familiar with this well-loved folk ceramic
brand, head here straightaway to get introduced. Crammed
full of colourful dishware with simple, hand-painted and
highly-recognisable folk motifs, this bargain shop is sure to
help you make someone on your list happy. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs a
home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kacper Ryx C- 3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 426
45 49, www.kacperryx.pl. One of Krakws most
interesting gi ft stores, this small histori cal shop skips
the ki tsch, instead of fering a wide variety of hi gh-quali ty,
hand-made, history-based craft work. Enter via the same
door as the Hipoli t House museum, and step into what a
gi ft shop may have looked like centuries ago, i f there were
such a thing: shel ves and tabl es stocked wi th swords,
armour and weaponry; leather flasks, pouches and bags;
histori cal wood-prints and archaeol ogi cal repli cas; beer
steins, gobl ets and pottery; cowls, dresses and other
medi eval apparel. Pri ces are fair and i tems are ni cer
than much of what youll find in the Cl oth Hall. Recom-
mended. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. You know a city
has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there
anything which says Ive been there more than a Hard
Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add
to your collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St
Marys Church. Classic white costs 99z, black costs 115z.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
15th century, Toru gingerbread is world-renowned and you
can purchase their range of novelty sweets in Krakw at this
enticing shop. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48) 696
49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An old-fashioned
dry goods store of expensive, yet exquisite, Galician delica-
cies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured meats, candies
and pickled things. A warm roll with their sliced pork and
mustard from the streetside window is a gourmet street
food bargain at only 5-9z (depending on weight), while we
can also recommend the black pudding (kaszanka) and the
pork hock (golonka). Also at ul. Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City
Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska) and the airport.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Prod-
ucts) D-6, ul. Krakowska 29, tel. (+48) 12 422 02 16,
www.benedicite.pl. This shop, set up by the Benedictine
monks of Tyniec Abbey, sells such an astounding variety of
products - cheese, jam, wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups,
meats - it raises two eyebrows over how they find the time.
All the products are completely natural, without pigment
and make excellent gifts. Naturally, you can also get them
online or straight from their source: Tyniec Abbey. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Sodki Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48)
12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Great for gifts, in this
classic cafe and sweets shop youll find a plethora of pricey, but
gourmet, chocolates, caramels, bon-bons, cakes and biscuits
alongside traditional Polish liquors and meads. Some snazzy
gift boxes are available for the aesthetically-obsessed; try the
edible box made of chocolate if youre determined to go kitsch
shopping on the Rynek. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
FACTORY Outlet ul. Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka,
tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00, www.factory.pl. 15 minutes
from the city centre, this outlet mall features 120 foreign
and domestic brands including Levis, Reserved, Calze-
donia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Solar, Simple and
many more. You can get there by catching a free bus
from Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) or Rondo Matecznego (I-5).
QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as the
areas most prestigious mall before the over-blown open-
ing of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping centre in
town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including media
giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters H&M,
Zara, Simple, Mango, Bershka, Stradivarius and KappAhl,
cosmetic specialists Sephora, and revered jewellers W.
Kruk, Pandora and Swarovski. The Alma supermarket
offers Krakws premier selection of food and beverages,
while those preferring a sit down meal can choose from
the American-themed Jeffs or Pizza Hut. For recreational
needs Galeria Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema
City complex with a fitness club underneath it. Situated
next to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily accessed on
foot; those arriving by car have 1,600 free parking spaces
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)
12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the old
station building, which as malls go makes it one of the most
centrally located in Europe. GK has helped contribute to
the regeneration of an area that once was home to dodgy
dwellings and dealings, and now has a new square and train
platform access. Stores housed here include H&M, Peek &
Cloppenburg, electronics giant Saturn, an enormous Carre-
four supermarket and over 260 other retail units, 1400 car
parking spaces, an entertainment centre and restaurants.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
Shopping Malls
Food & Sweets
Ciasteczka z Krakowa C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 21,
tel. (+48) 12 423 22 27, www.ciasteczkazkrakowa.
pl. Local sweets shop superpower selling cookies, cakes,
chocolates, wafers, pralines, truffles, fudge and ice cream
based on traditional recipes, with a lovely cafe for coffee or
tea. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Cracow Chocolate Factory B-3, ul. Szewska 7,
tel. (+48) 502 09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.
pl. Wall-length street-front windows with a view into the
Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this enormous
2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes an immaculate
shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With delicious handmade
treats in every direction - truffles, pralines, chocolate bars,
postcards, figurines and more - Cracow Chocolate Factory
perfectly captures that kid in a candyshop excitement, and
is great for dodging the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date
or picking up souvenirs. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in the base-
ment of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall, this Italian
delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality edible goods
including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese and meats, parma
ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as
delicious locally-made preservative free honeys and jams. Pies,
pastries and cakes are also made daily. With the sheer volume
of outstanding goods, Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the
most dangerous places you can take your wallet when youre
hungry. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Kopernik C-4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13
06, www.kopernik.com.pl. A traditional dating back to the
121
STREET REGISTER
120
DIRECTORY
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl. Note that sometime in October
the Norwegian Consulate will be moving to ul. Mosiznicza 3
(K-2), but the exact date could not be confirmed.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Sweden B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
Dentists
Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13, tel. (+48) 12 259
80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocawska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel.
(+48) 12 351 66 01, www.su.krakow.pl.
Genealogy
Registry Office (Urzd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1, ul.
Lubelska 27, tel. (+48) 12 616 55 15, www.bip.krakow.pl.
Language Schools
Jagiellonian University School of Polish Lan-
guage and Culture B-2, ul. Garbarska 7a, tel. (+48)
12 421 36 92, www.plschool.uj.edu.pl.
Profi-Lingua B-3, ul. Podwale 6, tel. (+48) 12 426 16
01, www.profi-lingua.pl.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover K-3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel. (+48) 500 900
500, www.medicover.pl. Also ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B
(Prdnik Czerwony), ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki).
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.kchk.pl.
Kupa Synagogue D-6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance
from Miodowa).
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters
Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
12 422 73 37, www.fecica.pl. Can translate official docu-
ments. Call in advance.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide 24 hour services in all languages.
Changing money in Krakw is increasingly less fretful to
do, but it is still worth checking and comparing exchange
rates, particularly at entry points such as airports and
in major tourist areas. Here we check the rates of a
selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Below were their buying rates (how many
zoty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
19.09.13 compared to the following rates published by
the National Bank of Poland (NBP) for that morning: Euro
1 = 4.1869z, US $1 = 3.1364z, GBP 1 = 5.0095z.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Airport, International Arrivals), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 57, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.37z,
1 Dollar = 2.36z, 1 Pound = 4.25z. No commission.
Currency Express ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Air-
port, International Departures), tel. (+48) 12 639
32 58, www.currency-express.com. 1 Euro = 3.49z,
1 Dollar = 2.62z, 1 Pound = 4.18z. No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.15z, 1 Dollar = 3.06z, 1 Pound
= 4.92z. No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.13z, 1 Dollar =
3.04z, 1 Pound = 4.91z. No commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.15z, 1 Dollar =
3.06z, 1 Pound = 4.93z. No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.15z, 1 Dollar = 3.06z, 1 Pound = 4.93z. No
commission.
Currency Exchange
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka Dbam o Zdrowie I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel.
(+48) 12 656 18 50, www.doz.pl.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Krakw ul.
Jodowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. w.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Finland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Iceland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, institutfrancais.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariaska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiaska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bauckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyska B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Boni fraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Boego Ciaa D-6/7
Boznaskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brzownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Buhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyska I-1
Cicha F-1
wiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersw L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czywka J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dbska L-2
Dajwr E-6
Daszyskiego J-3/4
Dbnicka H-4
Dbowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Duga C-1
Dugosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw A-2
Dominikaska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Faata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenna Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriaska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkaska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gsia K-3
Gowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gobia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegrzecka E-4
Gzymsikw I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclw I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrcw G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa F/G-1
Jagielloska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Jzefa D/E-6
Jzefitw H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyska A/B-3
Karowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kotaja E-3
Komandosw I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kociuszki H-3
Kosynierw L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Kolarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasiskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Krlewska H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krtka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesawicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckoroska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretaska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublaska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska B-1/2
Madaliskiego A-6
Maa A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
May Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowcw E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michaowskiego A-1/2
Michaowskiego H/I-2
Mikoajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotw H-3
Myska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosinicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Grdku D-3
Na Przejciu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjedzie J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Obona H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowa I-1
Ofiar Dbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszaska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynw G-4
Pauliska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pdzichw I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego G-4/5
Pijarw K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Pisudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Baw E-6
Pl. Bernardyski C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidw H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Sowiaski C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski B-2
Pl. w. Ducha D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgrska E-7
Podchorych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Pkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powile A/B-5
Powronicza A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwionie I-4/5
Przemysowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Puaskiego A-6/7
Racawicka H-1
Radziwiowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rkawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Rana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki A-6
Rynek Gwny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzenicza K-3
Sdowa K-2
Salezjaska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skaeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbiskiego G-1
Skawiska C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sawkowska C-2/3
Somiana H-4/5
Soneckiego K-1
Sonecznikowa F-3
Sowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smolesk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiowa F-1/2
Starowilna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowcw L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelcw K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepaska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
lska I-1
liska I-5
lusarska K-4
niadeckiego J-3/4
w. Agnieszki C-6
w. Anny B-3
w. Bronisawy G-3
w. Filipa C/D-1
w. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
w. Idziego C-5
w. Jacka H-5
w. Jana C-2/3
w. Katarzyny D-6/7
w. Krzya D-3
w. azarza J-3
w. Marka C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana C/E-5
w. Stanisawa C-7
w. Teresy I-1
w. Tomasza B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca D/E-6/7
witokrzyska I-1
Tenczyska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Waowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Wglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wiolarska G-4
Wilna B-3
Wadysawa okietka I-1
Wociaska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodocigowa F-4
Wjtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wrblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocawska H/I-1
Wrzesiska E-4
Wyczkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiaskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zaktek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zauek K-4
Zegadowicza A-4
Zieliskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
elazna J-1
kiewskiego K-3
Europeum
Agrafka
BLU Plac
targowy
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw
Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
Ci voglio ritornare!
xassi1,oo n\
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten
a better pizza.
Taoiusz Piarix n\
ul. Sienna 12, Krakw
Phone 12 426 49 68
www.kogel-mogel.pl
Certifcate of Excellence 2012 Recomendation
What a hearty introduction
to Polish quisine!
Stuart Forster,
British Guild of travel writers
Etap
Hilton Garden
K
a
d
k
a
B
e
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n
a
tk
a
W
g
i e
r
s
k
a
Jzefiska
Schindlers
Factory
MOCAK
Kopiec
Krakusa Liban
Quarry
Fort Benedict
J
e
r
o
z
o
lim
s
k
a
Galaxy
view point
street mural
129
LISTINGS INDEX
Adam Mickiewicz 76
AeroPlatform 112
Alchemia 68
Alchemia od Kuchni 56, 62
Alebriche 46
Amadeus 27, 37
Amarone 42
Ambasada ledzia 65
Amber Design 27
Amber Museum & Laboratory 116
andel's Hotel Cracow 27
Andromeda 37
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery 116
Antycafe 60
Apartmenthouse Grodzka 25
Aperiti f 37
Aqua e Vino 42
Archaeology Museum 77
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal
Karol Wojtya 78
Ariel 45
Artefakt Cafe 68
Ascot Hotel 30
Auschwitz I 106
Auschwitz II - Birkenau 107
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra
Lomdei Mishnayot Synagogue 107
Austeria 116
Baccarat 64
Bagelmama 33
Bajo 119
Bal 56
BaniaLuka 65
Barbican 74
Barka Food, Li fe, Music 38
Bar Smak 46
Bar Targowy 40
base music club 64
B&B La Fontaine 25
Beer Gallery - Luxury 60
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace 78
Bonia Meadow 113
Bococa 56
Bomba 60
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa 113
Boscaiola 42
Botanical Garden 112
Bristol 109
Budda Drink & Garden 60
Bull Pub 61
Bunkier Cafe 61
Burlesque 64
Cafe Mynek 55
Caf Szaf 61
Cafe Tramwaj 110
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystw N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchw P-4
Daniowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T-1
Ludmierska N-1/2
empickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mocickiego O/P-1
Camelot 56
Campanile 30
Carriage Rides 80
Castle 83
Cathedral 84, 110
Cathedral Museum 85
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist
Information 84
Central Square & Roses Avenue 100
Ceska Chodba 34
Chapel of St. Margaret 96
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino 56
Cheder 56
Chianti 43
Chicks 'n' Champs 33
Chimera Salad Bar 34
Chopskie Jado 46
Chopin Cracow 30
Chory Caps & Hats 117
Church of St. Bartholomew 99
Church of St. John the Baptist 99
Church of the Holy Saviour 97
Ciasteczka z Krakowa 118
Cie 65
Cistercian Monastery 99
City Defensive Walls 78
City Engineering Museum 89
City Tourist Information 86
C.K. Browar 46, 61
Classic 30
Cloth Hall 78
COCA 34
Collegium Maius 78
Cool Tour Company 112
Copernicus 25, 38
Corpus Christi Church 88
Cracow Chocolate Factory 57, 118
Cracow City Tours 72
Cracow Tours 75
Crazy Guides 100
Crown Treasury & Armoury 83
Cue Bar 112
Czerwone Korale 48
Da Pietro 43
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu 45
Dekor Art 119
Deli Bar 36
Delikatesy 13 118
Diego & Bohumil 45
DiscoverCracow.eu 72, 75
Diva Music Gallery 65
Dragon's Den 85
Dym 61
Dynia Resto Bar 38
Eden 30
Obrocw Krzya N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjani, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
R, al. O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wakowicza S-1
Wwozowa S-1
Winiowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchw P-3/4
eromskiego O/P-1/2
Eros Bendato 76
Eszeweria 68
Ethnographic Museum 89, 110
Europejska 38
Europeum Centre for European
Culture 79
FACTORY Outlet 119
Father Bernatek Footbridge 89
Fort Benedict 92
Forum Przestrzenie 62
Francuski 27
Frantic 65
Free Walking Tours 75
Galaxy 27
Galeria Bukowski 119
Galeria Kazimierz 119
Galeria Krakowska 119
Galeria Plakatu 116
Galicia Jewish Museum 89
Gallery of Ancient Art 80
Ganesh 36
Ghetto Wall Fragments 93
Gold Club 67
Gorczka 65
Grand 25
Grande Grill 33
Greg & Tom Beer House 25
Grdek 25
Grunwald Monument 76
Hamsa 42
Hard Rock Cafe 33, 62
Haweka 48
High Synagogue 90
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw 28
Hipolit House 80
History of Photography Museum 80
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 26
Home Army Museum 80
Hotel Kazimierz 30
Hotel Kazimierz II 30
Hotel Kossak 28
Hotel Stary 26
Hotel Unicus 28
Hotel Wilga 112
House Of Beer 62
Hutten-Czapski Museum 81
Ibis Budget Krakw Bronowice 32
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto 32
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto 31
IDEA FIX Concept Store 117
Il Calzone 43
Indus Tandoor 37
Irish Mbassy 62
Isaac Synagogue 90
Jama Michalika 57
Jan Matejko House 81
Jan Matejko Manor House 99
Jarden 86
Jarema 48
Jewish Community 86
Jewish Community Centre 86
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre 72
Jzef Mehoffer House 81
Judaica Foundation 86
Kacper Ryx 119
Karma 55
Karma Coffee Roasters 58
Karmel 31
Kawaleria Szara Smaku 48
Kawiarnia Michalscy 58
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski 62
Kitsch 69
Klezmer Hois 45
Klub Pikny Pies 69
Kogel Mogel 48
Koji 44
Konfederacka 4 58
Kopernik 118
Kociuszko Mound 97
Krakw History Museum Visitor
Services Centre 72
Krakowski Antykwariat Naukowy 116
Krakowski Kredens 118
Krakw Water Park 113
Krakw Zoo 113
Krakus Mound 91
Ksigarnia Hetmaska 117
Kuchnia i Wino 38
La Campana Trattoria 43
La Fontaine 36
Laser Park 112
Le Scandale 56, 68
Literki 69
Lizard King 64
Lost Wawel 83
Love Krove 36
Main Market Square 76
Mamma Mia 43
Mamy Cafe 58
Manggha 81
Manzana 46
Marcello 44
Marmolada 49
Massolit Books & Caf 59, 117
Matejko 28
Meho Cafe 59
Miejsce 68
Milano Ristorante 44
Military Cemetery 24
Milkbar Tomasza 56
Ministerstwo 65
Mid i Wino 49
Mid Malina 49
Mleczarnia 68
Moaburger 36
Moment 68
Moment Resto 56
Nowa Huta Street Register
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
130
Momo 55
Morskie Oko 49
Mostowa Art Cafe 69
Movida Cocktail Bar 62
Museum of Contemporary Art 92
Museum of the Armed Act 100
Musso Sushi 44
National Museum, Main Building 82
New Jewish Cemetery 90
New Podgrze Cemetery 24
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA 26
Norbertine Monastery 96
Nova Resto Bar 39
Novotel Krakw Centrum 28
Novotel Krakw City West 28
Nowa Huta Museum 100
Noworolski 59
Old Podgrze Cemetery 24, 92
Old Synagogue 90
Omerta 69
Oriental Art 83
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 29
Pasa 13 119
Pauza 63
Pharmacy Museum 82
Pharmacy Under the Eagle 94
Piec'Art 64
Pieroki Mr. Vincent 49
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 65
Pimiento 45
Plac Nowy 87, 117
Plac Targowy Unitarg 117
Plac Wolnica 88
Pod Anioami 52
Pod Baranem 52
Pod Norenami 55
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 63
Pod R 29, 39
Pod Temid 40
Pod Wawelem 31, 52
Polakowski 52
Polish Aviation Museum 82
Pollera 31
Polski Pod Biaym Orem 29
Portofino 46
Produkty Benedyktyskie 118
Prozak 2.0 66
Qubus Hotel Krakw 29
Radisson Blu 26
Rakowicki Cemetery 24
Red Kurka 25
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 90
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim
52
Restauracja Unicus 39
Resto Bar Kipi 39
Resto Illuminati 40
Rock Shop 119
Royal 31
Royal Art Cafe 59
Royal Crypts 85
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club 112
Rozrywki Trzy 66
Rubinstein Residence 30
Ruczaj 31
Rynek Underground 79
Saltworks Castle & Museum 104
Salwator Cemetery 24, 97
Satori Cafe-Bistro 59
Scandale Royal 40, 62
Schindler's Factory 92
Secret Garden Hostel 25
See Krakow 72
SeeKrakow Guided Tours 75
Senacki 30
Shakers Krakw 66
Sheraton Krakw 26
Sigismund Bell 85
Singer 69
Skaka 88
Sodki Wierzynek 118
Sowacki Theatre 74
Smakoyki 53
Smak Ukraiski 55
SomePlace Else 33, 63
Soprano 110
Spazio 63
Spdzielnia Organic Resto & Take-
away 55
Spoem 66
SS Peter & Paul's Church 74
St. Adalberts 74
Stadnina Podskalany 112
Stajnia 69
Stalowe Magnolie 64
St. Andrews 74
Stanisaw Lem Science Garden 113
Stara Zajezdnia 53
Starmach Gallery 93
Stary Kleparz 117
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments 84
St. Benedict's 92
St. Francis' Basilica 74
St. Joseph's 92
St. Marys Basilica 75
Streat Slow Food 34
Strefa Piwa 114
Studio Qulinarne 40
wita Krowa 63
Szambelan 114
Szara 40
Szara Kazimierz 40
Szoayski House 82
Taawa 69
Taboo Gentlemen's Club 67
Tektura 59
Temple Synagogue 90
The Lord's Ark 99
The Mexican 46
The Olive 41
The Piano Rouge 64
The Stage 112
Tourist Information Centre 110
Tournet 32
Town Hall Museum 110
Town Hall Tower 82
Tradycyja 41
Trufla 41
Trzy Papryczki 44
Trzy Rybki 41
Two Wheels 112
Tyskie Brewery 111
U Babci Maliny 53
U Jana 109
Ulica Pomorska 82
U Muniaka 64
Underground Health Resort 104
U Stasi 34
Vanilla Sky 41
Vanilla SPA 113
Vinoteka 13 114
Visiting the Auschwitz Museum 105
Wanda's Mound 100
Warsztat 46
Wawel 32
Wawel Visitor Centre 85
Well Done 34
Wentzl 30
Wentzl Magda Gessler 54
Wesele 54
Wianki 54
Wieliczka Salt Mine 104
Wielopole 32
WieloPole 3 55
Wierzynek 54
Winiarnia Lippczy Pince 110
Wittchen 117
World of Amber 116
WRT Karting 112
Wyspiaski 32
Yellow Dog 34
ZaKadka - Food & Wine 36
Zapiecek Ekspres 62
Zazie Bistro 36
Andrzejki 58
Barbican 74
Bonia Meadow 113
Breakfast 56
Burgers 36
Carriage Rides 80
Cloth Hall 78
Cracovian Cooking A-O 50
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 51
Currency Exchange 120
Dining at a Glance 33
Dishing Up History 80
Facts & Figures 15
Father Bernatek Footbridge 89
Gift Shopping At a Glance 114
Guided Tours 75
Have Your Say 67
Hot Beer? 60
Krakw Historical Timeline 70
Krakus Mound 91
Lady With an Ermine 84
Language Smarts 16
Late Night Eats 62
Live Music 64
Main Market Square 76
Market Values 16
Milk Bars 40
Nightlife At A Glance 60
Norbertine Legends 97
Oskar Schindler 95
Out of Centre 82
Plac Nowy 87
Plac Wolnica 88
Polish Desserts 57
Polish Snacks & Shots 65
Polish Vodka 66
Quick Eats 34
Rynek Underground 79
Sowacki Theatre 74
Station History 12
Street Art 8
The Hejna 71
The Maluch 116
The Obwarzanek 55
Features Index
LISTINGS INDEX

Krakow

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