AAZ upgrade quick guide. 1.6TD (JX) to 1.

9TD (AAZ) Strip AAZ to bare engine, head and block, good time to replace cambelt and tensioner and check crank pulley and crank for wear.[see note] Fit J sump and oil pick up pipe without windage tray [see note] !se AAZ in"ection pump, modify throttle linkage. !se #$ %iesel &'S,(), J * throttle cable. Small hole in engine lid, probably about +,cm-s by +.cm-s and about +,mm increase in height. !se J e/haust manifold.[see note] !se J e/haust. !se AAZ turbo, change attitude to suit J e/haust manifold.& you can use J turbo if re0uired*[see note] 1anufacture oil feed pipe for turbo. !se J e/haust and mounts. !se #$ %iesel clutch.[see note] Fit spigot shaft bearing to crank &2art of 3rickwerks kit* Fit block bung to back of cylinder block &2art of 3rickwerks kit* Fit 4'ut to length4 5il return line from turbo to sump &2art of 3rickwerks kit*only for ((( turbo-s, not 6arrett* !se J airbo/ and piping to turbo, relocate airbo/ to behind 78 light. !se J water housings for cylinder head. !se AAZ waterpump to head rubber hose as the J one isn-t long enough, block the spare end. !se AAZ inlet manifold, J and AAZ ports are different shapes, if you match port the J manifold to suit the AAZ head then in my opinion you aren-t left with sufficient material to create a good seal. !se which e9er alternator:belt set up suits you, they are interchangeable. !se &(),'S,J * %ipstick [see note] 1.6 D (CS) 1.7D (KY) to 1.9TD (AAZ) As abo9e but you will need to buy a complete +.;#% &J e/haust* )ou will need a +.;#% &J * sump. )ou will need a +.;#% &J * e/haust manifold. )ou will need a +.;#% &J * airbo/ and piping. Petrol to Diesel. 2itfalls outweigh benefits, all bolt together but unless you ha9e a engine bay to strip e9erything from it won-t be a nice "ob, < ha9e seen far too many done my Sunday 1orning man, really really badly. some by so called professionals and some done by those that should know better. )ou will also need engine bay wiring loom and a %iesel instrument cluster. 3uy a 726 gas con9ersion, it will be cheaper and easier. Notes. !sing the original AAZ e/haust manifold and turbo in it-s AAZ orientation results in oil not being able to drain from the turbo, engine will run on it-s own oil and self destruct, A lesson < ha9e learned from the mistakes of plenty of others. !sing the AAZ turbo and e/haust manifold will mean you ha9e to make an e/haust to suit, any smaller diameter of the e/haust pipe will result in high =6#, therefore a shorter engine life and less performance. 5nce done, fit new oil filter, fill engine up with >.,l of oil and run, once run then re?mark dipstick to new le9el. <f you don-t the le9el maybe too high, the engine may smoke or run on it-s own sump oil, and possibly self destruct. @+,mm clutch will be fine for standard AAZ in a #$, if you start tuning, then it won-t be strong enough and you will

ha9e to find an alternati9e method. #he clutch from any of the #$ %eisels will do, they are the same. %on-t use the windage tray. <t increases the width of the gasket as it were, then when you try to get the bottom bolts from bellhousing to sump they won-t line up. 7ea9ing the sump loose while fitting the engine, < don-t see how that would work as the sump is still that little bit further away from the engine. <f you insist on fitting it then you will ha9e to modify it to fit the pick up pipe, then increase the diameter of the holes in the bellhousing that the mounting bolts pass through. <f you don-t then < should imagine that it will crack the sump when tightening and putting unnecesary stress onto the sump. #he AAZ has problems, big problems, when buying an engine it is essential that you check theat there is no mo9ement between the crank pulley and the crank. #he design of the pulley assembly was such that after a period of time the bolt would work loose, the pulley would mo9e on the crank and damage the pulley and the crank. <f the crank is damaged then it is scrap, and if the crank is scrap then generally the rest of the engine is too as repairing or replacing the crank is not a cheap, or easy "ob. AB realised there was a problem and modified the pulley bolt to stop this hapenning but there are some unmodified ones out there so beware. #here are > different in"ection pumps fitted to the AAZ, some ha9e =6C, some ha9e Do reducing measures also. %oing the con9ersion with the info abo9e will result in ha9eing @ non genuine parts, the oil feed &Bhich some people "ust bend a +.;% one into place * and the oil return line from the turbo &J one is too short* <f you do it any other way you will ha9e to make an e/haust, and if it breaks you won-t be able to "ust buy one o9er the counter. !sing as many parts from AB means when something breaks you can buy said part and not ha9e to mess around bodging. <f you are going from +.;#% because you don-t ha9e enough power, then fi/ the J first, chances are you don-t like it because it-s not been maintained properly, a properly maintained J is a good engine with more than enough power for most people. Cemember tappets are manual and not hydraulic and rarely get set, once checked they generally ha9e 9ery little gap, hence not seating properly, low compression ? low power, 9al9es get hot as they are not closing enough to transfer the heat away from them to the head so worst case is burnt 9al9es, not good. A AAZ is only ,bhp up on a J , but it does ha9e slightly more tor0ue.