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Introduction to Childrenswear
Childrenswear Challenges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691 Color and Functional Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . .691 Representative Sizes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691 Size Grouping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691 Observable Differences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .691 SIZE CATEGORIES FOR CHILDRENSWEAR . . . . . . . . .692 Infants or Babies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Toddlers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Boys and Girls (Preteen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Young Juniors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Juniors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 SIZING METHODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .692 Alternate Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .693 SOURCES OF INSPIRATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .693 Childrens Fashion References . . . . . . . . . . . . .693

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Childrenswear Challenges
Creating childrenswear offers some new challenges to the designer and patternmaker. Comfort, which reflects good fit, proportion, and function, is nowhere more important than in the creation of childrenswear. While adults are sometimes willing to sacrifice comfort for aesthetics, children never are. The business of children is to learn. To successfully accomplish the many activities on which learning hinges, children require unencumbering and, at the same time, stimulating clothes.

Color and Functional Clothing

One of the most stimulating aspects of childrens clothes is the primary palette that remains the favorite of children every season. Fabric, too, must be functional, and parents frequently demand material that requires only limited maintenance. Fibers and fabric types for childrenswear are not much different from those found in clothes for comparable uses among adults and teens, although prints, plaids, and stripes are proportioned for the smaller body.

Representative Sizes
The discussion of the sizes and shapes of children in this text includes infants, toddlers, children, preteens, young juniors, and juniors. However, only sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14 (boys and girls) are represented in the patternmaking illustrations.

Size Grouping
Sizes for childrens clothing are grouped according to body circumference and proportion. Overlap between toddlers and childrens sizes occurs as proportions and heights vary within the age range, almost to the same degree that those with the 7 to 14 sizes overlap on the upper end with junior sizing. Size groupings reflect changes in the proportions of children as they pass from infant (3, 9, 12, 18, or 24 months), through toddlers (2T, 3T, 4T) to childrens (3, 4, 5, 6, boys and girls, with 6X for girls only), and into boys and girls sizes (7, 8, 10, 12, and 14). (Size 16 is used for larger boys pants.)

Observable Differences
Body shapes from infants through childrens size ranges are indistinguishable between boys and girls. Although many differences can be observed in styling and color between boys and girls clothing from infant through sizes 6 and 6X, differences necessitated by form only become a reality at size 7, when physical shapes begin to diverge.

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Chapter 31

SIZE CATEGORIES FOR CHILDRENSWEAR

Infants or Babies
Sizes: 3 months, 6 months, 12 months, 18 months, and 24 months. Sizes may also be labeled as Small (S), Medium (M), Large (L), and Extra Large (XL). Sample size: 12 months or Medium. Physical observations: Newborn to children beginning to crawl.

Young Juniors
Sizes: 10 to 14. Physical observations: There is a jump in growth and the figure is more defined. The torso is longer, a natural waistline appears, and bust and hips start to take shape in girls. Boys have slim hips, blending into the waistline. For both boys and girls, this is an interim period when the figure matures at varying stages. Garments within this upper size range do not always fit the figure well. A better fit may be found in the junior department, with boys pants fitting better in a size 16. Slim and Regular sizes are separate labels for girls, and Slim, Regular, and Huskys are labels for boys pants. This labeling indicates special fits for other figure types.

Toddlers
Sizes: 2T, 3T, and 4T (1T may also be considered in this size range). Sample size: 3T. Physical observations: Child is walking by this time. Head seems to sit on shoulder; neck is not developed. Shoulders are rounded and have almost no width. Outward thrust of tummy is a prominent feature. Boys and girls sizes are indistinguishable, and except for color difference and dresses, fashion is unisex.

Juniors
Sizes: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13. Sample size: 9. Physical observations: The young womans figure is developed to almost adult maturity with a defined waistline; high, rounded breast; and shapely hips. The teenager is now ready to wear garments in the junior size range. In young men, the figure is developed almost to maturity. Muscle is more defined and hips are slim, blending with the waistline.

Children
Sizes: Sizing for children within this group is mixed. They are either sized 3 to 6X (X meaning larger than size 6) for both boys and girls or sized 4 to 6X for girls, and 4 to 7 for boys, with size 3 labeled for toddlers. Sample size: 5. Physical observations: There is rapid growth through this period. Proportions differ greatly as the torso remains about the same length, but the legs grow longer. The protrusion of the stomach is reduced. Boys and girls have similar shapes at this age, and the waistline, as yet, is not defined. Boys and girls begin to diverge at age seven.

SIZING METHODS
Measurement charts for childrens sizes 3 to 6X and 7 to 14 are found in Chapter 32. A measurement recording chart is placed at the back of the text for use in recording the measurements taken from the measurement chart or those taken from personal model measurements. The chart may be removed and reproduced for future use. The anatomical changes that take place in children between ages six and seven tend to interrupt the regular sequence of graded sizes. The measurement differences will be noticed in some of the graded areas of the chart. The measurement chart offered in this text is one of many such attempts to establish a good set of working measurements for the industry. It is difficult for manufacturers, patternmakers, and designers to decide which set of measurements best represents their consumers. They may use age or height and weight as the standard upon which to determine the sample size, and from which to base the pattern grade.

Boys and Girls (Preteen)

Sizes: 7 to 10. Another method for sizing this group is girls 7 to 14 classified as elementary to junior high school; boys 8 to 20 classified as elementary to junior high school (with chest measurements used for sizing). Sample size: 10. Physical observations: Figures diverge when boys and girls reach age seven. Major changes are taking place. Baby fat is replaced with muscle tissue. Slimming and lengthening of the torso and limbs occur, but the figure does not, as yet, have defined curves.

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Alternate Sizing
Another method used for sizing garments uses letters rather than numbers, as follows: XXS size 2/3. XS size 4/5. S size 6/7. M size 8. L size 10. XL size 12. XXL size 14. Large and oversized garments, pants, shorts, and tops are commonly labeled Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large.

Closures of unusual design (buttons, zippers, ties, frogs, clasps, ornate metal closures, Velcro, lacings, and others) Combinations of fabrics, colors, and textures Clever usage of all that is available to the designer allows for endless creative ideas. The smart designer also shops the market for inspiration, in addition to knowing what the competition is doing. When possible, the designer should go to Europe and other fashion centers for inspiration and fashion direction. Literature, historical references, and folk costumes often provide themes for designer collections. Childrens fashion magazines are a valuable source of fashion direction. A list of magazines, clipping services, and historical books follows.

SOURCES OF INSPIRATION
Designers of childrenswear gain inspiration from many diverse sources, including those provided by fashion-minded children. Younger children are influenced by what they see on TV, in movies, and in books. They want to wear clothing displaying their favorite characters from TV (Sesame Street characters, the Simpsons, Dora the Explorer, Mickey Mouse and others), Britney Spears, Walt Disney movies, Superman, or Twilight themes, to name a few. A manufacturer must be licensed to use characters based on various television shows. A premium is paid to the creator of cartoon characters that are used on garments. Older children, while still interested in TV and movie characters, become more interested in fashions that are part of the hip hop scene. Boys and girls ages 7 to 14 are influenced by fashions of the junior market. They want their garments to reflect those worn by an older sister or brother or by classmates. They have heroeskey players from football, baseball, basketball, hockey, and other sports. They idolize movie stars and music personalities from country, rap, or rock categories and want to dress like them. This infatuation creates fads in fashion, such as the hip hop influence: bag pant, underwear worn as outerwear, and the grunge look (over-oversized). Designers who want to be up to date with the latest fads should study children at school, on the playground, on TV, and in the movies. Other sources of inspiration are: Trims (lace, rickrack, cording, ruffle trims, braiding, appliqus, bows, and so on)

Childrens Fashion References

Fashion Magazines and Services
Publications Bimbi Di Elegantissima (twice a year); in Italian; includes all ages up to teens Earnshaws Infants, Girls and Boyswear Review (monthly) Kids Fashions (monthly); merchandising of childrenswear Moda Bimbi (three times a year); in Italian Childrens Business; published monthly by Fairchild; covers childrens apparel, footwear, toys, and licensing Seventeen, Elle (both domestic and French editions), Lei, and occasional childrenswear issues of Town and Country Teens and Boys (monthly); forecasts style trends Vogue Bambini (four times a year); in Italian; high-style childrens magazine Child; a resource for upscale childrenswear from both domestic and foreign designers Young Fashions (monthly); fashion magazine for youthwear Childrens Clothing, Selma Rosen, Fairchild Publications, 1983 Website How to become a childrenswear clothing designer: www.stylecareer.com. Under Careers in Fashion, select Babies and Childrens Clothing Designer.

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Chapter 31 Drawing and Designing Childrens and Teenage Fashions, by Patrick John Ireland, published by John Wiley and Sons (1979) Inside Fashion Design (chapter 8) by Mona Edwards, Edited by Sharon Tate, published by Prentice Hall (2003) History of Childrens Costumes, Elizabeth Ewing, published by B. T. Batsford (1977) Boys Fashions, 1885 to 1905, by Donna H. Felger, published by Hobby House Press (1984) Childrens Clothes 19391970, the Advent of Fashion, by Alice Guppy, published by Blandford Press (1978) The Way We Wore: Fashion Illustrations of Childrens Wear, 18701970 by Linda Martin, published by Encore Editions (1978)

Services FirstVIEW Girls FirstVIEW Boys FirstVIEW Baby D3Junior Retail Report The Patricia Brandt Company Phone: (323) 650-1222 www.patriciabrandtcompany.com The Middlemarck Clipping Service; features sketches of childrenswear around the country References Complete Book of Fashion Illustration (How to Draw Children) by Sharon Tate and Mona Edwards, published by Prentice Hall (1995) Fashion Illustration for Designers by Kathryn Hagen, published by Prentice Hall (2004)