Biography

F.C. Gundlach (Franz Christian Gundlach) born 16. Juli 1926 in Heinebach, Hessen is photographer, galler o!ner, collector, curator and "ounder. #ince #epte$ber 2%%& he is the Founding 'irector o" the House o" (hotograph in the 'eichtorhallen in Ha$burg. Fro$ 19)6 to 19)9 he *isited the Private Lehranstalt fr Moderne Lichtbildkunst o" +ol" ,. -ehrdich in .assel. #ince 19)9 he $ainl published theatre and "il$ reportages as a "reelance photographer "or $agazines such as Deutsche Illustrierte, Stern, Quick and Revue. /n 190& he began his specialisation in "ashion photograph 1ournalis$2st le !ith his !or3 "or the Ha$burg $agazine Film und Frau. He $ainl photographed the "ashion o" 4erlin "ashion designers, (arisian Haute Couture and al!a s "ur ca$paigns. 5 "urther "ocus o" his !or3 !as on "ashion reportages !ith "il$ stars in "ashion and artist portraits a$ong !ho$ !ere +o$ #chneider, Hildegard .ne", 'ieter 4orsche and Jean26uc Godard. #ince then, F.C. Gundlach has gone on "ashion and reportage tra*els to the 7iddle and Far 8ast as !ell as Central and #outh 5$erica "or $agazines li3e Film und Frau, Stern, Annabelle and !en. 9ntil 19:& he photographed $an o" the trend2setting "ashion pieces !ithin the "ra$e!or3 o" an e;clusi*e contract !ith the $agazine "ri#itte$ 6ocation tra*els led hi$ to #outh 5$erica, to 5"rica, but $ost o" all to -e! <or3 and the 5$erican ,est Coast in the 19=%s and :%s. F.C. Gundlach>s "ashion photographs o" the 190%s, 6%s and =%s that dealt again and again !ith social pheno$ena and current trends in *isual arts, achie*ed iconic status, le"t their original conte;t behind the$ and "ound their !a into $useu$s and collections. +etrospecti*el created solo e;hibitions such as ?7ode,elten> (Fashion ,orlds, 19:0), ?'ie (ose als .@rpersprache> ((osture as 4od 6anguage,1999), ?4ilder $achen 7ode> (/$ages Create Fashion, 2%%)) or ?F.C. Gundlach. 'as "otogra"ische ,er3> (F.C. Gundlach. Ahe (hotographic ,or3, 2%%:) !ere sho!n in $an $useu$s and galleries at ho$e and abroad. Fro$ 19=0 to 1992 F.C. Gundlach sho!ed $ore than 1%% e;hibitions in his ((#. Galler !ith !or3s "ro$ /r*ing (enn and +ichard 5*edon, "ro$ Joel2(eter ,it3in and +obert 7applethorpe, "ro$ 7artin .ippenberger and 5lbert Behlen, "ro$ -an Goldin and ,ol"gang Aill$ans. ,ith the start o" the eighties he "ocused his attention on collecting photographic !or3s and the conception o" internationall recognized photo e;hibits. His collection o" photographic !or3s under the title ?Ahe /$age o" 7an in (hotograph > is one o" Ger$an >s $ost i$portant pri*ate photograph collections and is a*ailable to the House o" (hotograph on per$anent loan. /n the ear 2%%% he established the F.C. Gundlach Foundation, !hose purpose is the pro$otion o" art, science and research in the "ield o" photograph , and especiall o" photograph as a cultural asset.

BIOGRAPHY F.C. GUNDLACH

Jul 16, 1926 4orn in HeinebachCHessen His parents Heinrich Gundlach (1:9)D190)) and .atharina Gundlach, nEe -@ding (1:96D196:) run the restaurant FGu$ 6@!en in HeinebachH 19&6 First ca$era, an 5g"a 4o; !ith sel"2ti$er 19&6D19)& Jacob Gri$$ Gra$$ar #chool, +otenburgCFulda 19&: #ets up a dar3roo$ 19)& ,arti$e school2lea*ing e;a$s, enlisted as 6u"t!a""e support personnel 19)0 Januar I trans"erred to the "ront near ,rocJa! 6ate Januar I !ounded, trans"erred !est!ard in an a$bulance train 5prilI ta3en prisoner b the 9. #. "orces 8nd o" 5pril to $id25ugustI (B, ca$p +ennesCFrance, Cage 12 8nd o" 5ugustI Ca$p "e*er and pul$onar tuberculosis in a ca$p in the 5u*ergne near Bradour 19)6 Arans"erred to the (B, hospital G@ppingen, later to the lung sanatoriu$ 7elsungen 10. Juni 19)=D &%. Juni 19)9 June 10, 19)= D June &%, 19)9I trains as a photographer at +ol" ,. -ehrdich>s (ri*ate #chool "or 7odern (hotograph in .assel 19): #chool closes to sa*e coalK opens a photo studio in Heinebach !ith class$ate Constanze .up"erberg, closed three !ee3s later b in1unction on behal" o" the photographers> guild. 19)9D190& ,or3s as an assistant in *arious studiosI ul 2: to #epte$ber 10, 19)9I operator in the Holl !ood #tudios (photo lab 8rnst B. .eller) in ,iesbaden

#epte$ber 16, to 'ece$ber &1, 190%I assistant to /ngeborg Hoppe in #tuttgart 9ntil 190&I "reelance assistant to Harr 7eerson in (aris #eit 19)9 (ublications in radio and tele*ision $agazines such as Fil$2+e*ue, Fun32/llustrierte and Gong #tar portraits and ("ashion) 1ournalis$ in illustrated $agazines such as 8legante ,elt, Fil$ und Frau and stern 190% First trip to France. 1901 Bctober 2= to -o*e$ber 2=I HF.C. GundlachL e;hibition in the 6ibrairie Jean +obert, (aris 1902 5ugust 1I registered as a pro"essional Hphoto1ournalistL !ith the #tuttgart authorities Founds #tudio 0% !ith Hans 'ieter #ch$oll and Horst Jericho! (ublications in radio and "ashion $agazines, so$eti$es using the pseudon $s HFenner2FotoL and H'a*idisLK ad*ertising photos "or Heinzel$ann and other clients 190& 4eginning o" an intensi*e collaboration !ith Fil$ und Frau, "or !hich he photographs o*er 1%% co*er pictures and o*er 20%% pages in the "ashion section b 1966

190)D1966 5ssign$ents "or Constanze, stern, Muic3 and other $agazines alongside his !or3 "or Fil$ und Frau 6ocation2scouting trips to 5"rica and 5sia as !ell as -orth, Central and #outh 5$erica

5d*ertising photos "or Jobis, 7aris, /,# and "ur co$panies such as #aga, Aho$pson, 4erger

#eit 1900 5ssign$ents "or 'eutsche 6u"thansa, ta3es photos on the inaugural "light o" the 'eutsche 6u"thansa>s -orth 5$erican line, on the #outh 5$erica inaugural "light !ith the #uper Constellation and $an other "lights

196& 4egins an intensi*e !or3ing relationship !ith the $agazine 4rigitte, photographing o*er 1:% co*er pictures and o*er 00%% pages "or the "ashion section b 19:6 1966 8;clusi*e contract !ith 4rigitte

1966D19:6 6ocation2scouting trips to 5"rica, 5sia, -orth and #outh 5$erica Continues to publish photos in 5nnabelle, +e*ue and other $agazines alongside his !or3 "or 4rigitte 5d*ertising photos "or Fal3e Fashion, Nan 'elden, #inz and others

196= Founds the co$pan CC (Creati*e Color G$bH) 19=1 Founds the co$pan ((# ((ro"essional (hoto #er*ice) as a photographers> ser*ice enterprise pro*iding blac32and2!hite and color labs, a rental ser*ice, rental studios and a specialized boo3store

19=0 Founds the ((#. Galerie F.C. Gundlach, !here he presents ca. 1%% the$atic and $onographic e;hibitions up until 1992

19=2 5ppointed to the Ger$an #ociet "or (hotograph , 'G(hK $e$ber o" the board, 19=6 to 1996 19=6D19:= 7e$ber o" the board, 5ssociation o" Freelance (hotographers, 4FF, honorar board $e$ber "ro$ 19:: 19:% 5ppointed $e$ber o" the Ger$an (hotographic 5cade$ , 'F5 19:: 5ppointed pro"essor at the 4erlin 9ni*ersit o" the 5rts

#eit 19:9 Curates photograph e;hibitions 1991 5!arded the 4ier$ann2+at1en 7edal 1992 #ells the ((# group.

199& Founds the (hotograph ,or3 Group in Ha$burg 199= 5!arded the Federal Cross o" 7erit 1999 /nitiates the Ariennial o" (hotograph in Ha$burg 2%%% Founds the F.C. Gundlach Foundation to $aintain, stud and e;pand the collection o" his o!n !or3 and the collection on HAhe Hu$an /$age in (hotograph L that he had built up since 19=0 Honorar pro"essorship at the Nisual 5rts 5cade$ , Ha$burg

5ppointed $e$ber o" the Free 5cade$ o" the 5rts, Ha$burg 2%%1 Culture 5!ard "ro$ the Ger$an #ociet "or (hotograph

2%%& 5ppointed "ounding director o" the House o" (hotograph , 'eichtorhallen Ha$burg a per$anent loan to the Free Hanseatic Cit o" Ha$burg 8;pansion and restructuring o" the F.C. Gundlach Foundation

2%%) Con*ersion o" the southern 'eichtorhalle 2%%0 +eopening o" the House o" (hotograph !ith the e;hibition H7artin 7un3acsi D Ahin3 ,hile <ou #hootL

2%%6 7edal "or 5rt and #cience "ro$ the Ha$burg #enate 2%%: 7ade an honorar citizen o" the to!n o" 5lhei$CHeinebach

2%%9 F.C. Gundlach beco$es the "irst photographer to recei*e the Foru$ 5!ard o" the te;tile industr

F.C. Gundlach Collec ion

%&ollectin# is a creative act, a method of self'a!areness and a (ossibilit) to (artici(ate in the (assions of another$ A collector selects sub*ectivel) !ithout re#ard to (ro(ortion or obli#ation to!ards the (ublic$ Selection criterion is not onl) an intellectual a((roach to a (articular art, but most of all an emotional+ he *o) to live !ith this (iece of art$ ,o!ever a collection !ithout a conce(t is *ust an accumulation$ Focused on one st)le, to(ic or ob*ect it-s a (ersonal r.sum., a critical and affirmative commentar) on tendencies in contem(orar) art at the same time$ In the course of time and under the im(ression of (ersonal and social chan#es a collection chan#es like a livin# or#anism$ oda) the main em(hasis of m) collection lies thematicall) in (ictures de(ictin# (eo(le in their tem(oralit) and fra#ilit)$F.C. Gundlach B*er $an decades F.C. Gundlach, one o" the $ost i$portant "ashion photographers o" ,est Ger$an , collected photograph and gathered one o" the $ost signi"icant pri*ate photograph collections. Ahe centre o" the collection "or$s the ?/$age o" 7an in (hotograph > D $ainl "ashion photograph in the broadest sense, i.e. nude photograph as !ell as docu$entar photograph and ?street photograph >. Further$ore the collection is co$prised o" $a1or o$nibus *olu$es o" art photograph "ro$ 19%%, sub1ecti*e photograph and the !or3s o" *isual artists that used the $edia photograph . ,ith the opening o" the ?House o" (hotograph > in the southern 'eichtorhalle in Ha$burg, the core o" the collection to the ?/$age o" 7an in (hotograph > "ound its !a into this house established b F.C. Gundlach.

!he F.C. Gundlach Founda ion

/From the outset the ima#e of man has been sub*ect of (hoto#ra(hic (roducin#$ 0f (articular im(ortance are those (hoto#ra(hic (ictures that disclose, be)ond their bein# historical documents, ne! (ers(ectives on human di#nit) and vulnerabilit)$1 ta3en "ro$ the prea$ble o" the F.C. Gundlach Foundation Ahe purpose o" the F.C. Gundlach Foundation, !hich F.C. Gundlach established in 2%%%, is to pro$ote photograph as an artisticall and sociall i$porant cultural asset. Ahe F.C. Gundlach Foundation is in charge o" the F.C. Gundlach Collection, as !ell as his

photographic !or3. Further$ore the "oundation ad$inisters a nu$ber o" photographic re$ains, o$nibus *olu$es and e;ternal donations. /n close cooperation !ith the House o" (hotograph in the 'eichtorhallen, !hich !as "ounded in 2%%& b F.C. Gundlach and ad$inisters the F.C. Gundlach 6ibrar and the core o" the F.C. Gundlach Collection to the H/$age o" 7an in (hotograph L on per$anent loan, the F.C. Gundlach Foundation stages e;hibitions, pro1ects and photographic co""ee2table boo3s.

F.C. Gundlach ran3s as the $ost signi"icant "ashion photographer o" Ger$an Os post2!ar ears. His na$e has gone do!n in the pages o" "ashion histor and e*en toda he still !ields great in"luence on photograph in Ger$an D as an initiator o" e;hibitions, a collector and as a patron. 5 passion "or the $ediu$ /n Ha$burgOs Har*estehude district there is a residential street called (ar3allee in !hich one $ansion is $ore splendid than the other. Ahis is !here the F.C. Gundlach Foundation has its headPuarters. /t is the control centre "or all the pro1ects organised b F.C. Gundlach and his tea$. 4orn in 1926, he beca$e Ger$an Os leading "ashion photographer o" the 0%s and 6%s and one $ight thin3 he !ould no! li3e to rest on his laurels D no !a . H/ a$ still out there D on the edge,L he sa s. 5lthough Gundlach has not actuall done an pro"essional photograph since the beginning o" the 9%s, he is still obsessed !ith the $ediu$ D a passion he cannot let go o".

5 i$pressi*e sho!case o" the $asterOs !or3

His current pro1ect is the e;hibition, F$&$ 2undlach 3 Das foto#rafische 4erk (Ahe Beu*re o" F.C. Gundlach). /t !as on in the House o" (hotograph at the 'eichtorhallen galleries in Ha$burg in #epte$ber 2%%: and !ill be sho!n in the 7artin2Gropius24au in 4erlin "ro$ 2% -o*e$ber 2%%9 until 1) 7arch 2%1%. Ahe pro1ect brought together "our curators !ho ha*e co$piled an i$pressi*e sho!case o" the $asterOs !or3 (&0% e;hibits) !hich also ser*es as an e;cellent o*er*ie! o" the de*elop$ent o" "ashion photograph "ro$ the 190%s to the 19:%s. H/n 190%C01 / !as in (aris. Ahat !as so i$portant "or $e as bac3 then (aris !as the cultural hub o" the !orld,L F.C. Gundlach tells enthusiasticall . He did his training at a pri*ate school o" photograph , he !or3ed as an assistant, then as a photo21ournalist. /n (aris he soon ca$e into contact !ith "il$K he did so$e portrait photos o" stars and had the$ published in !hat !as then a *er popular $agazine D Film und Frau. HAhen the editor2in2chie" said he !ould li3e $e to do so$e "ashion photos. He !as con*inced that / could photograph "ashion and that is ho! $ career as a "ashion photographer started.L 5 career as a "ashion photographer ,ith the help o" Ger$an "il$ stars li3e +uth 6eu!eri3 and -ad1a Ailler Gundlach $anaged to gi*e "ashion a dra$atic touch. ,hene*er the ne! collections !ere to be presented in 4erlin, the photographer $o*ed into a studio on the .ur"Qrstenda$$ "or three !ee3s. He attended the sho!s in (aris 2 'ior, JacPues Fath. HAhe sho!s bac3 then !ere al$ost li3e sacred rituals. -o choreograph , no $usic and nobod !as allo!ed to ta3e photos or $a3e s3etches.L /n "act the !orld o" "ashion photograph in the 0%s !as a co$pletel di""erent one to that o" toda . Ahere !ere no st lists, no *isagists at "ashion shoots. H/ had to do it all $ sel",L sa s Gundlach. Ahe $odels !ere al$ost al!a s the $annePuins "or !ho$ the clothes had been tailored and !ho $odelled the$ in the salons. ,hen it ca$e to the collections the ut$ost secrec had to be preser*ed. Ahe shoots o"ten had to ta3e place in the i$$ediate *icinit o" the "ashion house. ,hen shooting on location the $odels had to drape the clothes in !hite sheets that !ere then re$o*ed "or a "e! $inutes "or the shoot. <ou had to be Puic3. -ot the $ost ideal !or3ing conditions, ou $ight thin3, but F.C. Gundlach de*eloped his o!n *isual language. He does not si$pl pro1ect a "ashion i$age, he interprets it. His photographs are "ull o" dra$atic ideas and et still $anage to i$part a "or$al se*erit o" co$position. H5 "ashion photo has to re"lect the spirit o" the ti$esL H5 "ashion photo has to ha*e a "ashion $essage, other!ise its purpose has been de"eated,L this is still the !a he thin3s toda . /t !as the clothes the$sel*es that helped hi$ to de*elop the ideas "or his photos. HAhe cut o" the cloth, the arrange$ent o" the "olds could be the sub1ect o" an i$age,L he sa s. He !as able to sho! the cut o" the cloth b $a3ing the $odel stride "orth, but that is 1ust one aspect a$ong $an . H5 "ashion photo has to re"lect the spirit o" the ti$es.L 5nd the spirit o" the ti$es !as e;actl the thing F.C. Gundlach had an un"altering instinct "or. H5t the end o" the 0%s / "elt that the ti$es !ere changing D societ !as in "lu; and, along !ith it, st le as !ell,L he e;plains. H/ bought one o" those co$pact ca$eras that !ere unco$$on at the ti$e and did a series o" photos "or -ino #to""e.L He positioned the $odel in a doc3side bar, on the doc3side steps, and included passers2b in the picture. Ahis is ho! the "ashion photo2article ca$e about D a $ethod that has not lost an o" its i$pact e*en toda . F.C. Gundlach, !ho "irst got the photo2article ball rolling, al!a s $anaged to e$brace these i$pulses in his "ashion photograph . 7an ears o" collaboration !ith the Ger$an !o$enOs $agazine, "ri#itte /" the 0%s !ere the decade o" the lad o" elegance, o" sophisticated clothes and haute couture, then the

6%s heralded in the desire "or political change, e$ancipation and the age o" the prRt2S2porter collection. 5nd F.C. Grundlach no! had a ne! 3e account D the high2circulation Ger$an !o$enOs $agazine, "ri#itte. Ahe $agazineOs role $odel !as not the elegant lad , but the "ashionable oung !o$an !ho had both "eet "ir$l on the ground. /n collaboration !ith the $agazineOs editor, 4arbara 4u""a, F.C. Gundlach succeeded in capturing the tastes o" the $o$ent li3e no other. 4et!een 196& and 19:6 F.C. Gundlach produced $ore than 0,0%% "ashion pages as !ell as 1:% co*ers "or 4rigitte. Ahe sent hi$ on 1obs to 5"rica, #outh 5$erica and the 9#5. 5longside the photo2article approach he also beca$e $uch $ore inspired b the "ine arts D op2art and pop2art being t!o genres that he, as a collector o" art, "ocused on. Bne series o" his photos that !as inspired b op2art ca$e about in 8g pt in 1966, !here the $odelsO heads, loo3ing li3e round balls in bathing caps, !ere placed in star3 contrast to the classic architectural "or$ o" the triangular p ra$ids. Ahis caused an al$ight "racas. HAhe editor called $e and said that the editor2in2chie" "ound the series $uch too highbro!,L he recounts. Ahen that is the end o" us !or3ing together, he replied, and hung up D as Gundlach tells the tale. Ahe photos !ere then published under the title H5ll da long at the beachL. 5part "ro$ that F.C. Gundlach has nothing else negati*e to sa about his e$plo er. -o ro!s. -o dissatis"action. He sa! hi$sel" as a li"e2long Hser*ice pro*iderL and $e$ber o" the editorial sta"" and this enabled hi$ to produce a huge a$ount o" outstanding !or3. F.C. Gundlach 2 the pheno$enon Ahe pheno$enon that is F.C. Gundlach and his in"luence on Ger$an photograph is ho!e*er not 1ust restricted to the "ield o" photograph . First o" all he set up a ser*ice co$pan "or photographers !ith a laborator , rental ser*ices and rental studios D called CC that later beca$e ((#. 5"ter his e;periences in -e! <or3 he !anted to create better conditions "or photographers in Ger$an . /n 19=0 he established the ((#. Galerie, in !hich he e;hibited the !or3s o" /r*ing (enn, +ichard 5*edon, +obert 7applethorpe, -an Goldin and ,ol"gang Aill$ans "or the "irst ti$e in Ger$an . /n 19:: he beca$e a pro"essor at the 9ni*ersit o" the 5rts in 4erlin. He is still as curious as e*er, as can be seen b the long list o" $agazines he has ta3en out a subscription !ith. Gundlach !as the initiator o" the Ariennale der (hotographie, a photograph "esti*al in Ha$burg, and he is the "ounding "ather and director o" the Haus der (hotographie (House o" (hotograph ) !hich he has endo!ed !ith his o!n collection o" about =,%%% ite$s on per$anent loan D Das "ild des Menschen in der Foto#rafie (Ahe i$age o" the hu$an being in photograph ). F.C. GundlachOs co$$it$ent to photograph e;tends !a be ond the boundaries o" his o!n !or3. He has done so $uch "or Ger$an photograph in so $an areas that e*en toda Os ounger photographers re*erentl re"er to hi$ as HF.C.L.