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SUNNY OUTLOOK

W
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Toronto Tourism
The Travel &
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the children back at school

the summer seems a dis-
tant memory now, espe-
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GETTING TO KNOW The Canary Islands 6
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IN YOUR SUITCASE 34
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4 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

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 Islands at the end

6 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


of the
WORLD
Millions flock to the Canary Islands every year for winter-sun
holidays, yet as Dave Richardson reveals, there is far more to
these volcanic marvels than mass tourism resorts
I
thought of the diary of parish
priest Lorenzo Curbelo as I drove
to Timanfaya National Park in
Lanzarote. “An enormous moun-
tain emerged from the ground with
flames coming from its summit,” he
wrote. “It continued burning for 19 days.
Some days later, a new abyss developed and
an avalanche of lava rushed down over
Timanfaya. All the western beaches and
shores were covered with an incredible
number of dead fish of all species – some
with shapes which islanders had never
known before.”
That volcanic eruption must have seemed
like the end of the world back in 1730, espe-
cially to farmers and fishermen living 800
miles from their motherland in Spain. The
eruptions continued for six years and creat-
ed many of the 300-plus volcanic cones in
September/October 2009
getting to KNOW
CANARY ISLANDS
Lanzarote, one of the seven Canary Islands.
Volcanoes are one of many reasons why
people visit the Canaries, and the Teneguia
volcano in La Palma last erupted as recently
as 1971. But the main draw for British peo-
ple, who make over three million visits a
year, is the mild climate. That has led to
mass tourism development in Tenerife, Gran
Canaria and, to a lesser extent, Lanzarote
and Fuerteventura. But there are still plenty
of charming places away from the crowds.
The average temperature hovers around
22ºC year-round, making the Canaries attrac-
tive for a winter break only four hours’ flying
time from the UK. But sunshine isn’t guaran-
teed, and constant Atlantic winds mean win-
ter days can be wet and a little chilly. In sum-
mer, however, the plus side is that you don’t
get the baking high temperatures you might
experience in the Mediterranean.
I Taking in the spectacular view
at Senderismo, La Palma
Main pciture:Turespana
The islands lie off the coast of North
Africa with Lanzarote, the most easterly,
being only 60 miles from Morocco. Over
200 miles to the west is little-visited El
Hierro, once considered “the end of the
known world”. Columbus called in at some
of the islands on his way to discover the new
world in 1492, and by 1496 they were
claimed by the Spanish crown. The original
inhabitants, the Guanches, were a primitive,
fair-skinned people who have left little
trace, apart from mummies in museums.
With beaches, dramatic landscapes and
lots to see and do, the Canaries don’t deserve
their sometimes tacky image. Avoid half a
dozen of the biggest resorts and you’ll start
to discover what makes them so distinctive.
Tenerife
When I visited the Casa del Vino, a wine
museum and restaurant in a dramatic
clifftop setting near the town of El Sauzal,
it was full of locals rather than tourists. It’s
one of the top restaurants in Tenerife, serv-
ing delicacies such as stewed rabbit accom-
panied by wines from the nearby hillsides.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 7

I Cafe culture in Las Palmas
Tenerife’s government has introduced a
gastronomy plan – not just for visitors but to
keep alive traditions for its own people, who
start learning at school rather than getting
stuck into turkey twizzlers.
The largest and most popular of the Canary
Islands is only about 70 miles from north to
south, yet it has two distinctive climates cour-
tesy of Mount Teide which, at 12,195ft, is the
highest peak on Spanish soil. The high vol-
canic crater surrounding the mountain traps
the clouds, giving the north a mild but damp
climate with lush vegetation, as in the Orotava
valley with its banana plantations.
In the north are the elegant resort of
Puerto de la Cruz (no beach but an attractive
lido) and the modern capital, Santa Cruz,
which stages a chaotic and colourful carni-
val claimed to be the largest in the world
after Rio (February 12-21 next year). The
former capital of La Laguna is nearby, with
a church dating from 1502 and some lovely
18th century mansions and convent.
A motorway takes you from Puerto de la
Cruz or Santa Cruz to the south in less than
an hour, passing Tenerife South airport,
which is used by all flights from the UK.
The south is dry, absolutely barren and
much hotter than the north, with most mass
tourism concentrated in the big resorts of
Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos.
More up-market resorts include Adeje and
Los Gigantes, and throughout the south are
five-star hotels, often with spas and some-
times golf courses attached.
Tenerife is the most diverse island but its
beaches are a disappointment, being mainly
small and of dark volcanic sand. The golden
beach at Teresitas, near Santa Cruz, uses
I Timanfaya National Park on Lanzarote
sand shipped in from the Sahara, but there’s
8 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
Food and wine
You’ll be lucky to find Canaries wine in
Britain, whereas 400 years ago plenty was
imported – especially sweet Malvasia.
Nowadays the limited production is
consumed locally, but wine museums in
Tenerife and Lanzarote focus on its
importance.White wines are the more
refined, and the islands also produce rum.
Cuisine is mainly fish based but also
includes stews made from pork, chicken
or rabbit. Most typical dishes are served
with salted new potatoes boiled in their
skins, and accompanied by red or green
mojo sauce made with paprika or
coriander. Gofio is a cornmeal used to
Turespana
thicken soups and stews.
Spanish and international cuisines are
widely available, especially in resorts.
“The Canaries plenty to do rather than laze all day on a
beach. Drive above the clouds to Mount
Teide and ride a cable car to the top, then
don’t deserve take the steep road down to Garachico, a lit-
tle port with 18th century buildings and
their sometimes great fish restaurants.
tacky image” Gran Canaria
This is probably the best choice for lovers of
beach resorts, as the south has great expans-
es of golden sand including the vast dunes of
Maspalomas. But beaches inevitably attract
big development, and the few miles running
from San Agustin to Playa del Ingles and
Maspalomas are highly urbanised.
Raucous nightlife makes Playa del Ingles
especially popular with young people and
gays. If you are neither and not broad minded
then choose another area – the dunes are
described as “very cruisey” by one website,
and we’re not talking about ships. Quieter
resorts in the south include Puerto Rico and the
more-recently developed Puerto de Mogan.
Gran Canaria has a similar but less-
marked north/south climatic split to Tenerife,
but it’s worth visiting the north if only to see
Las Palmas; the largest city and port in the
Canaries, it is home to about 375,000 people.
It’s good for shopping, and most of the histo-
ry is in the Barrio Vegueta district, which has
a 16th century cathedral, the Canary Islands
Museum and Columbus Museum.
The mountainous interior is traversed by
one main route, which is well worth taking
to discover a variety of landscapes that has
given Gran Canaria the moniker “continent
in miniature”. Deep ravines, fertile valleys,
artificial lakes and the Bandama crater are
Turespana
the highlights, with pretty villages such as
Tafira and Tejada. You can take an organised
September/October 2009
 4x4 trip to go off-road, or a walking holiday
staying at small, rural hotels a world away
from the coast.

Lanzarote
Despite reading what the priest had to say
about the 1730 eruption, nothing prepared
me for the bleakly-impressive Timanfaya
National Park, or Fire Mountain. The well-
worn “lunar landscape” cliché is actually a
good way of describing the devastation
wrought by the volcano, as much of the
island is covered by black lava which is
used for buildings and walls and contrasts
pleasantly with whitewashed houses and
blue sky.
Timanfaya is not an experience you can
enjoy in solitude, however, as it’s Lanzarote’s
leading attraction. You drive up a mountain
to a visitor centre and restaurant where meats
are grilled over the intense heat still coming

Turespana
I Camel riding on Lanzarote’s “Fire Mountain” up from the earth, and where water poured
into a hole shoots up as a plume of scalding
steam just seconds later. The temperature just
below the surface is 350ºC – more than
I Puerto Mogan, Gran Canaria
enough to do your sausages nicely.
But to view the most impressive volcano
you have to pile into a bus with dozens of
others, and listen to a recorded commentary
while “weird” music such as the soundtrack
to 2001: A Space Odyssey is played.
Although it’s more atmospheric to trek part
of the way up on a camel, the views are
more impressive on the bus tour.
Don’t think Lanzarote is a wasteland, as
there is some greenery in the north and the
volcanic grit is very fertile; it is used to grow
vines and vegetables around villages of the
interior such as Yaiza and Teguise. Plants are
protected from the prevailing winds by little
semi-circular walls – made from lava, of
course. Lava flows also created the Jameos
de Agua caves, another major attraction.
Lanzarote also has golden sandy beaches,
the main resorts being Puerto del Carmen,
Turespana

Playa Blanca and Costa Teguise. There are

no huge tourist complexes or high-rises

Activities comparable with Tenerife or Gran Canaria,

but development is marching steadily
Sea sports are popular, Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura being famous for windsurfing towards the virgin beaches of Papagayo,
with world championships held in both islands. Fuerteventura is the best choice for near Playa Blanca on the southern tip. A
diving, from Barlovento and Sotavento, with up to 400 species of fish on the coastal court ruled last year that 22 of the island’s
shelf. major hotels had been built illegally with
Hiking is popular on the mountainous islands, especially Gran Canaria and La Palma town hall corruption suspected, but it’s high-
but also in Tenerife.Volcanoes, dormant or active, can be viewed on most islands but ly unlikely any will be demolished as some
especially Lanzarote,Tenerife and La Palma.The islands have 600 native plant species, and campaigners demand.
botanical gardens in Tenerife and Gran Canaria.
The islands’ mild climate makes them ideal for golf.Tenerife has nine courses at eight Fuerteventura
clubs including Spain’s second-oldest club, while Gran Canaria has half a dozen 18-hole Although it is the second largest island, it’s
courses and Spain’s oldest golf club – Real Club de Golf de Las Palmas – which was also the least populated, with only about
founded in 1891. 30,000 inhabitants. Lack of water, poor agri-
cultural land and coastal erosion are the main

10 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 I Puerto del Carmen beach, Lanzarote
reasons for this, but the big attraction for vis-
itors is simple – sand, sand and more sand.
In parts of the island you can’t tell where
the beach ends and the dunes begin, as it
resembles the Sahara. Many of the 150
beaches are so long you’re almost guaran-
teed a spot to yourself, and development is
so far limited, mainly to Jandia in the far
south, and around Corralejo in the north.
Fuerteventura is very popular for wind-
surfing and also diving, including the off-
shore Isla de los Lobos. Inland there’s
little to see, but the former capital of
Betancuria, now a sleepy village, is
worth a visit.
La Gomera
You can’t fly directly to this island, but it’s
easily reached from Los Cristianos in
Tenerife by hydrofoil (40 minutes) or ferry
(90 minutes).
September/October 2009
Turespana
Its popularity for day trips makes the port
and capital, San Sebastian, crowded during
the day, but once the trippers have gone it
becomes, like the whole island, very tran-
quil.
Even on a day trip you should try to see
some of the interior, climbing through
banana plantations built on steep terraces to
deep, wooded ravines.
The Garajonay National Park is on a high
plateau, with extensive forests of laurel and
many unique botanical specimens. Playa de
Santiago, with a pebble beach, is
the only resort of
note.
Tenerife Tourism Corporation
Tenerife Tourism Corporation
I Sunset over Tenerife’s Mount Teide
Family fun
Tenerife and Gran Canaria are the best
choices for families, as they have theme
attractions in addition to beach facilities
and hotels catering for younger children.
Loro Parque, near Puerto de la Cruz in
Tenerife, is a world leader in parrot
conservation and has many other wildlife
exhibits and shows, including penguins.
Siam Park is a new theme attraction
based on Thailand, in southern Tenerife.
Fun boat trips include whale watching
cruises which operate year-round from
Los Cristianos, to spot a large group of
resident pilot whales and also bottle-
nosed dolphins.
In Gran Canaria, families will enjoy
Palmitos Park for birds and tropical
plants, and a replica of a Wild West town
called Sioux City.
La Palma
When I stayed at a small hotel in Barlovento
in the north of La Palma, I was surprised that
most of the guests trooped off after breakfast
kitted out with hiking boots and rucksacks.
But exploring is what this island is all about,
and the landscapes are spectacular.
It was just as well I hadn’t come for sun-
shine, as the eastern side of the island is
often damp. The western side is sunnier, but
often battered by Atlantic winds. Puerto
Naos (west) and Los Cancajos (east) are
small resorts with strips of dark sand, but
you’re making a mistake if you come here
for a beach holiday.
La Palma’s three national parks include
the Caldera de Taburiente, a huge
volcanic crater over six miles
wide and nearly 5,000ft deep. In
the south is the Teneguia volcano,
which last erupted in 1971 and will
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 11

I Dunes at Maspalomas, Gran Canaria
Did you know?
G A BBC Horizon programme described
La Palma as “a geological time bomb”
which could collapse into the sea
after another volcanic eruption.When
this happens, it said, a mega-tsunami
would devastate the US eastern
seaboard within hours.
G “Canary” wines are mentioned twice
by Shakespeare – in Twelfth Night and
The Merry Wives of Windsor. Large
quantities were imported in the
1500s and 1600s, to a London dock
now famous as Canary Wharf.
G People living in La Gomera’s remote
interior devised a whistling “language”
to communicate across deep ravines.
G The islands are named not after birds
but the large dogs – Canis in Latin –
found by early explorers.
erupt again one day. At present, though,
all looks very peaceful…..
El Hierro
Few people have visited this western out-
post, only reachable by internal flight or
ferry. The smallest and most remote of the
Canaries has no sandy beaches and a rocky
coastline punctuated by cliffs, attracting a
few divers and hikers wanting to experience
the fertile El Golfo crater. We now know it
isn’t “the end of the known world”, but it
probably feels like it. TL
Dave Richardson has made over 100 visits
to Spain in his 30-plus years as a travel
writer. He first visited Tenerife when Playa
de las Americas was in its infancy and all
around it was arid scrub, in contrast to
today’s big hotel developments.
12 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
Turespana
Canaries facts
When to go
Year-round, as temperatures are fairly constant.
Getting there
Low-cost airlines are expanding and most other
flights are charters. Flights operate to Tenerife
South and Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) from most
UK airports, while Lanzarote and Fuerteventura are now gaining more
routes. Monarch Airlines (www.monarch.co.uk) is operating an extra 64
flights a week to the Canaries this winter including new departures from
Gatwick and Luton to Gran Canaria and Fuerteventura. EasyJet
(www.easyjet.com) is adding Stansted to Fuerteventura, while Aer Lingus
(www.aerlingus.com) adds Gatwick-Tenerife South. Other major carriers
include Ryanair (www.ryanair.com),Thomson Airways
(www.thomsonfly.co.uk) and Thomas Cook Airlines
(www.thomascookairlines.co.uk).Thomson operates the only direct
flights to La Palma, from Gatwick and Manchester.
Tour operators
These include Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk),Thomas Cook
(www.thomascook.com), Classic Collection (www.classic-
collection.co.uk), Prestige Holidays (www.prestigeholidays.co.uk) and
Cadogan (www.cadoganholidays.com). Hotel-only bookings can be made
through Monarch (http://hotels.monarch.co.uk) and Youtravel.com
(www.youtravel.com).
Getting around
Car hire is widely available, and bus services link main
towns and resorts. All islands are served by Binter
Canarias (www.bintercanarias.com) flights from
bases at Tenerife North (note – UK flights operate to
Tenerife South) and Las Palmas. Inter-island ferries
serve routes including Santa Cruz (Tenerife) to
Agaete (Gran Canaria); Los Cristianos (Tenerife) to La Gomera, La Palma
and El Hierro; and Playa Blanca (Lanzarote) to Corralejo (Fuerteventura).
One of the main ferry operators is Fred Olsen (www.fredolsen.es).
Tourist information
Spanish Tourist Office: 020 7486 8077, www.tourspain.co.uk
Panel photos:Tenerife Tourism Corporation
September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 13
14 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

Queen city
Canada’s largest city has many highlights for visitors
– not least dining over 1,000ft high. Peter Ellegard
goes up in the world to report
H
aute cuisine is perhaps
not the first thing that
springs to mind when you
think of Canada. But dur-
ing a recent visit to the
country’s biggest city the
dining experience was, in every sense, one
of the high points of my stay.
It was my first time back in Toronto for
some 15 years and my wife’s first visit to
anywhere in Canada, and dinner on our first
night had been arranged at one of the city’s
landmarks – 1,150 feet up in revolving 360
Restaurant on the iconic CN Tower
(www.cntower.ca).
I wondered whether I should have told
my hosts of my morbid fear of heights as we
rocketed skywards in the lift up what was
the world’s tallest building for 32 years (it
September/October 2009
ESCAPE to…
TORONTO
on the lake I Towering over the lake
OTMPC
stands over 1,800 feet high at its tip). And as
we were led to a table next to the floor-to-
ceiling windows and handed the menu, I pri-
vately mused whether I might make only a
passing acquaintanceship with my food
before needing a quick trip to the bathroom.
IArchitectural Yet the view was so amazing as we slowly
blends in turned full circle, all negative thoughts and
downtown
Toronto panic totally vanished. The city was laid out
below us like a toytown model, the modern
glass and steel skyscrapers shimmering in the
glorious setting sun, dwarfing grand, older
edifices, many of them overlooking Lake
Ontario. From our man-made eyrie I could
see why Toronto was nicknamed Queen City.
Tiny sailboats bobbed on the calm waters
of the lake, which stretched as far as the eye
could see. The usually-busy ferry service
linking the city with offshore Toronto Island
was idle, thanks to a strike by city municipal
workers. But the Toronto City Centre
Airport on the island’s western end buzzed
Peter Ellegard
with the frequent arrival and departure of
aircraft. And as the sun disappeared, the city
turned into a twinkling fairyland.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 15
 All the while, we had enjoyed a sumptu-
I Maid of the ous feast of dishes highlighting produce
Mist at the foot from Ontario and Eastern Canada, washed
of the falls
down by one of the more than 550 Canadian
and international wines from its “cellar in
the sky”. Executive chef Peter George and
his team serve up food of the highest order –
pun intended. Then, after a visit to the Sky
Pod (the world’s second-highest observation
deck) for some photographs and a fleeting
one to the glass-floored observation deck
(where I kept my eyes firmly shut), we were
whisked back down to earth in a glass-sided
elevator (eyes closed again). Terra firma
never felt more welcome.
We were lucky to have chosen our first
evening to visit the CN Tower. The weather
turned the next day, and for the rest of our
Toronto stay it was often sheathed in rain

OTMPC
clouds. Unseasonal for July, we were told.
But then I can make it rain anywhere I travel.
Next morning, we left our city-centre
Niagara and the falls hotel on a walking tour with one of the most
knowledgeable and engaging guides I have
No visit to Toronto would be complete without a side trip to the awe-inspiring Niagara ever met. Historian Bruce Bell is more than
Falls.They are just 90 minutes by road around Lake Ontario, and you can rent a car to a guide, he is a Toronto legend. Thanks to
visit, take a train or bus, or book an excursion tour. his tenacity and campaigning, many notable
Nothing can prepare you for the awesome power and noise of the mighty falls. One- old buildings and sites in the heart of the
fifth of the world’s fresh water cascades over them, 98% of over Horseshoe Falls.You can metropolis are now celebrated with historic
get a close-up view of the torrents from the Table Rock terrace, while the Journey Behind marker plaques as part of the Bruce Bell
the Falls tour has elevators taking you deep into the rock to viewing decks beneath the History Project.
roaring curtain of water. They include Toronto’s old jail, in the
You get a waterproof poncho to keep basement below bustling St Lawrence
I Whirlpool
Aero Car you dry, as you do aboard the Maid of the Market – once the city hall – where he took
Mist, the evergreen boat tour which has us to show us chain rings still bolted to the
been drenching passengers in Niagara’s brick walls. We walked through unassuming
spray for 160 years.A popular new bank buildings to marvel at their unseen
attraction at the Niagara Falls architectural splendour inside, from stucco
entertainment complex at Table Rock is ceilings and chandeliers to grandiose statues
Peter Ellegard

Niagara’s Fury, an exciting simulator and wooden carvings. In their day, at the
showing how the falls were created.You can beginning of the 20th century, they were the
also dine in style overlooking the citadels of this brave new world across the
Horseshoe Falls cascade at the new Elements on the Falls restaurant in the complex. Atlantic. Many were torn down in the name
Undoubtedly the most spectacular way to experience Niagara’s majesty is by flying high of progress, as with most cities. Some are no
overhead on a helicopter tour. Niagara Helicopters operates flightseeing tours of the falls longer banks; one of the grandest of them all
from its base, just downriver. Nearby you can also feel the might of the Niagara River on now housing the Hockey Hall of Fame.
the White Water Walk, while you can experience the swirling waters of the Whirlpool We also toured the city’s opulent Union
suspended high above on the Whirlpool Aero Car, which first opened in 1916, or by Station and, just opposite, the elegant interi-
getting wet and wild aboard the Whirlpool Jet Boats. or of another city landmark, the Fairmont
In the evenings, watch Niagara Falls lit up by illuminations and regular fireworks displays. Royal York hotel. Bruce revealed he worked
In winter, they become even more magical there as an elevator operator in the early
I Fireworks
when cloaked in ice.You can also explore over the falls 1970s. Years later, he has been made the
the town with its many restaurants and hotel’s honorary historian.
attractions, and stay in hotels overlooking The tour continued on to the historic
the falls in quieter streets behind. Distillery District (www.thedistillerydistrict.com),
The Niagara Peninsula is a fertile region its old warehouses now a collection of
of vineyards and orchards. Spend time cafes and boutique stores where you can
leisurely following a wine trail and visiting take Segway tours, and ended with a cab
Peter Ellegard

historic Niagara-on-the-Lake as well as ride to the Royal Ontario Museum

stopping off at a winery for brunch and to (www.rom.on.ca), or ROM as it is affec-
buy local produce. tionately known.
In a city of striking architecture, it is one

16 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

I Old and bold,
The Royal
Ontario Museum
of the most striking buildings of all. The
futuristic Michael Lee-Chin Crystal wing was
grafted on to the venerable, ornate Italianate
museum and opened in 2007 to mixed
reviews. Opinion is still divided today. You
either love it, or you hate it. I must admit,
while the exterior is undoubtedly breathtak-
ing, I found the ultra-modern angles jutting
into the 95-year-old building rather ugly.
However, the museum houses the world’s
Ontario’s
lake district
Less than three hours north of Toronto is
Ontario’s own lake district, the holiday
region of Muskoka.This is where anyone
who is anyone in Canada, and many a
Hollywood star as well, has a cottage – in
reality luxury homes – alongside one of
its thousands of lakes. Most people come
here to rent smaller cabins for a few days.
The Rosseau Resort & Spa is a new
oasis of luxury set on a granite bluff
overlooking the sublimely-beautiful Lake
Rosseau in 700 acres of private wilderness
preserve. A JW Marriott property and
part of the upmarket Red Leaves
September/October 2009
largest collection of fossils and, as you
would expect of Canada’s largest museum of
natural history and global culture, is packed
full of galleries where you can lose yourself
for hours. We visited the fascinating Dead
Sea Scrolls exhibit, which is on until
January 3, 2010.
Another old Toronto institution which has
undergone an avant-garde makeover is the
Art Gallery of Ontario (www.ago.net) –
I Muskoka chairs
Peter Ellegard
development which also includes adjacent
Nick Faldo-designed golf course,The
Rock, the final phase opened in August.
OTMP
known, of course, as AGO. Toronto’s own
Frank Gehry – the architect celebrated for
structures including Bilbao’s Guggenheim
Museum – was commissioned to transform
and expand it. The result was unveiled in
November 2008 and is utterly mesmerising,
from its titanium and glass south wing to the
sinuous spiral stairway and wooden Galleria
Italia. The museum houses art ranging from
Old Masters and Renaissance treasures to
Underlining the region’s star appeal, the
day I was playing golf on the Faldo course
I missed Kurt Russell wandering around
the hotel lobby (he and wife Goldie Hawn
have a cottage in the area).
My wife and I took a canoe to paddle
around a nearby island and get a close-up
view of its palatial cottages, and watched
an old steam ship moor at the hotel’s
dock on a brief stop.We also toured the
area, visiting quaint towns, dining at
dockside restaurants and watching thrill-
seeking youngsters jump off a railway
bridge into a lake and hurl themselves
into raging rapids, thankfully protected by
lifejackets.
A Muskoka side trip is highly
recommended.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 17
 I Casa Loma
OTMPC
modern art and sculptures, but I found
myself staring more at the building than its
contents at times. The queue for the extended
evening opening stretched around the corner
as it was free entry, yet nobody minded.
One of our favourite city excursions was
to Casa Loma (www.casaloma.org), an
extravagant 98-room castle built by entre-
preneur Sir Henry Pellatt.
Besides its many museums, among oth-
ers the Ontario Science Centre
(www.ontariosciencecentre.ca) and
Museum of Inuit Art (www.miamuseum.ca),
Toronto boasts the world’s third-largest the-
atre district, and in a short break you can
catch top productions such as The Sound of
Music.
The city is also a pulsating cultural melting
pot; a world within a city where immigrants
have created a kaleidoscope of ethnic neigh-
bourhoods. They include four Chinatowns, a
Greektown, a Little India and a Little Italy,
which is more Portuguese these days.
As the fifth most populous city in North
America and capital of Ontario (but not
Canada – that is Ottawa, also in Ontario),
shopping is a major pastime in Toronto. You
can flash cash and credit cards at several
shopping centres, including the sprawling
Eaton Centre. And even the bone-chilling
winters are no barrier. This is troglodyte
city; its downtown is linked by nearly 17
miles of underground walkways which form
18 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
Toronto facts
When to go
Any time of year. Summers are warm and late spring to early autumn is
best for exploring beyond Toronto.Winters are bitter, but Niagara Falls is
spectacular sheathed in ice and Toronto has underground walkways.
Getting there
British Airways (www.ba.com) and Air Canada (www.aircanada.com)
fly to Toronto from Heathrow, year-round. Flights are also offered year-
round from Gatwick by Canadian Affair (www.canadianaffair.com), using
partner carriers Thomas Cook Airlines and Air Transat, and by Flyglobespan
(www.flyglobespan.co.uk) to nearby Hamilton.
Accommodation
Among Toronto hotels are the Hyatt Regency
Toronto (www.torontoregency.hyatt.com), in
the city centre, close to the theatre district, and
the historic Fairmont Royal York
Peter Ellegard
(www.fairmont.com/royalyork). Niagara Falls
has several big hotels overlooking the falls, some
with casinos. For a quieter stay an easy walk
from the falls, try the boutique Old Stone Inn (www.oldstoneinn.on.ca).
In Muskoka, stay at The Rosseau, Canada’s first JW Marriott Resort & Spa
(www.jwrosseau.com).
Tour operators
Operators offering short breaks include Frontier Canada (www.frontier-
canada.co.uk), Canadian Affair (www.canadianaffair.com),Thomas
Cook (www.thomascook.co.uk), Flyglobespan
(www.flyglobespan.co.uk), 1st Class Holidays
(www.1stclassholidays.com), Key 2 Holidays
(www.key2holidays.co.uk) and Tailor Made Holidays
(www.tailor-made.co.uk).
Getting around/attractions
Toronto has excellent public transport including buses, streetcars and a
subway system with four lines. Save money by buying blocks of tickets,
single-day or week passes from the Toronto Transit Commission
(www.ttc.ca).Walking tours: Bruce Bell Tours (www.brucebelltours.ca).
Niagara Parks (www.niagaraparks.com) operates many of the Niagara
Falls attractions, including the People Mover Bus which links major sites. A
combined Adventure Pass gives 40% savings on four
top attractions. Fly high with Niagara Helicopters
(www.niagarahelicopters.com). Rent a car
to explore Niagara and Muskoka from Dollar
Car Rental (www.dollar.co.uk).
OTMPC
Tourist information
Ontario Tourism: www.ontariotravel.net/uk
Toronto Tourism: www.tourismtoronto.com
Canadian Tourism Commission: 0870 380 0070,
http://uk.canada.travel
the PATH system. A word of warning, Having scaled Toronto’s highs and got
though – it is easy to get disorientated in the lost in its lows, I found a city which had
maze of corridors, as we did. We had to be changed out of all recognition from my pre-
rescued by a friend whose bank building we vious visit. I won’t leave it 15 years before I
were trying, and failing, to find. pay a return visit. TL
September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 19
 With the long civil war now

Land of
over and the tragedy of the
Indian Ocean tsunami a
fading memory, there is a new
sense of optimism in Sri
Lanka and its gracious people

smiles
have reason to smile again.
Peter Ellegard reports

Peter Ellegard
I
t was 4am on a late October morn-
ing and I was being driven from
Colombo Airport by my guide,
Janaka, after the 10-hour flight from
London. It seemed everyone in this
south-western corner of Sri Lanka
was slumbering as we passed through town
after deserted town en route to my hotel at
Hikkaduwa beach resort.
Then, as we rounded a bend it was as
though the whole island had come alive.
Hundreds of people were lining the roadside
and, in their midst, a procession was snaking
its way past them and swaying to the beat of
drums. Despite the blackness of the night,
the costumed participants were clearly visi-
ble as many of them were holding flaming
torches and lanterns, lighting up the crowd
as well.
Driving slowly past the fiery human chain,
Janaka explained that this was a procession to
mark the start of Deepavali, or Diwali as it is
also called – the Hindu festival of lights. At
the front, several dancers were twirling large,
wooden six-pointed stars, the extended points

20 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


I Fire walk
with me:
Deepavali
procession
Peter Ellegard
of which were alight so that as they span they
resembled giant Catherine wheels.
It was a breathtaking way to arrive on an
island I had long wanted to visit, my desire
fuelled since childhood by images of golden
sandy beaches, lush tea plantations, exotic
wildlife and rich culture.
My anticipation was tinged with apprehen-
sion, too. Less than two years earlier, the
island’s south-west had suffered unimaginable
devastation and more than 30,000 lives had
been lost in the infamous 2004 Boxing Day
tsunami. Violence had also started to flare
again in the long civil war which had ravaged
northern and eastern areas.
It seemed fitting that Sri Lanka was
teardrop-shaped; so many tears had been shed
by and for its people in recent years.
Yet what I encountered as I toured the
island was far removed from my fears. I did
witness some of the horrific aftermath of the
tsunami, including the twisted wreckage of
the Queen of the Sea train, in which 1,500
September/October 2009
off the beaten TRACK
I Stilt fisherman
Peter Ellegard
died when it was engulfed as it passed through
the village of Peraliya just 2.5 miles north of
Hikkaduwa, making it the world’s worst-ever
train disaster. I also saw the shells of wrecked
homes in the village where another 1,000 peo-
ple had died – and where, unbelievably, a rebel
“The new era of
peace is now
bringing tourists
surging back”
Tamil Tiger suicide bomber blew up a bus and
killed nine people just weeks after my visit.
But I also saw the revitalisation of beach
resorts and rebuilding of shattered communi-
ties under programmes funded by internation-
al governments, aid agencies and charities.
SRI LANKA
I Tea pickers in
Sri Lanka’s hill
country
Peter Ellegard
Indomitable spirit
And I was deeply touched by the indomitable
spirit of the island’s people. They showed an
unshakeable resilience and optimism to match
their gracious hospitality, legendary friendli-
ness and warm smiles. I found it quite disarm-
ing at times; even those I spoke to who had
lost family members and homes in the tsuna-
mi were confident Sri Lanka would bounce
back from that and from its bloody civil war.
That optimism has proved correct.
With the conflict ending this year, peace
has now returned to this enchanting island and
while the tsunami will never be forgotten, the
regeneration is helping to heal its scars. The
islanders have reason to smile again.
The new era of peace is now bringing
tourists surging back to its beautiful beaches
and historic cities, and Sri Lanka’s tourist
office is promoting the island with a rebrand-
ed image and slogan – “Sri Lanka, Small
Miracle” – highlighting the island’s easy
accessibility and amazing diversity.
I The beach at Hikkaduwa
Peter Ellegard
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 21
 I saw much of the island’s diverse attractions
during my action-packed visit, which also
included taking part in the annual two-day Sri
Lankan Golf Classic tournament at Victoria
Golf Club, in the hilly, green interior.

Stunning beaches
I walked barefoot on stunning beaches in the
south-west, their beautiful sands devoid of
other footprints. Off one beach, stilt fishermen
perched precariously on poles as they dangled
hooks from outstretched rods, then enthusias-
tically showed me the tiddlers they were land-
ing. It hardly seemed worth the discomfort.
I watched other fishermen launch outrig-
ger craft into the crashing surf from beaches
near Galle, the pushers laughing and joking
when the boats hit waves, drenching their
occupants. Galle itself is fascinating to
explore. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it
is a small town full of wonderful old buildings
set within the ramparts of a fort built by the
Portuguese. The Dutch made it the headquar-
ters of the Dutch East India Company after
winning it in 1640, before it was taken in turn
by the British in 1796.
Inland from the south-west’s beaches you
can visit cinnamon plantations and gemstone
mines, little more than shafts dug deep into the
alluvial soil where moonstones and other

gems are sifted from the extracted silt.
Leopards and elephants
On the south-east coast, Yala National Park is
one of 14 national parks in Sri Lanka and one
of the best places in the world to see leopards.
Sadly, they eluded me on my visit. However, I
did see plenty of other inhabitants, including
crocodiles, monkeys, peacocks and elephants.
Even here is a stark reminder of the tsunami.
Alongside the remains of the park ranger's
house which once stood by the beach, a stain-
less steel sculpture graphically depicts the
destructive waves.
I Encounter at Pinnawela Elephant orphanage
Before 1800, Sri Lanka had around 15,000
wild elephants. Today, protected parks are the
only places to see them in the wild. Uda
Walawe National Park is home to some 500,
while up to 300 at a time can be seen in
Minneriya National Park. But a must on any
itinerary is the Pinnawela Elephant
Orphanage, 80km north-east of the capital,
Colombo. Set up by the government in 1975
to care for injured and orphaned elephants, it
is home to 70 elephants and is one of Sri
Peter Ellegard
Lanka’s most popular tourist attractions. Twice
a day, the herd is led to a river where the ani-
mals bathe in front of tourists, who can pay
extra to have their pictures taken with them or
feed them. Stars of the show are always the
tiniest youngsters. They melt your heart.
In the island's centre, Kandy is home to Sri
Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – a
tooth of Buddha himself. It is housed in the
Temple of the Tooth, in a beautiful, forested
lake-side setting. The spectacular, annual

(www.rcgcsl.com), founded in 1879.

Chill or thrill Golfers have to stop to let trains cross the
From sedentary to full-on, a holiday in Sri fairway on one hole.
Lanka can be as relaxing or action-packed Being an island, water activities abound.
as you want. Dive on beautiful reefs or explore caves
If you want to chill out, some of the and wrecks off the south and west coasts.
Sri Lanka Tourist Board

best beaches on the planet stretch from
the far south up the west coast to
Negombo, north of capital Colombo. Be
pampered with Ayurveda wellness
treatments, based on the ancient belief of
ensuring the five elements are brought
into harmony.You can have sessions in a
traditional, local centre or in a spa at a
luxury beach-side resort.
The island has several golf clubs open to
Kayaking and white-water rafting are
popular.You can even raft past the hill
country village used as the setting for the
classic wartime film, The Bridge on the River
Kwai.
I Taking an Ayurveda spa bath You can go whale and dolphin watching
along the south and west coasts. Prime
visitors, from the cooler hills of Nuwara time is November to March. And you can
Eliya to the country’s oldest course, the view Sri Lanka’s natural majesty from the
Royal Colombo Golf Club air on hot air balloon or helicopter trips.

22 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 23
 I Fire-walking at Kandy

All photos: Peter Ellegard

I Temple of the Tooth at Kandy

Esala Perahera festival in July or August is in

Sri Lanka facts
honour of the sacred tooth, which is carried
around Kandy in a golden casket. It involves When to go
fire-dancers, drummers and tusker elephants Sri Lanka enjoys sunshine year-round.The best time to
adorned with elaborate costumes and covered visit the south-west’s beaches is from November to
in tiny lights. While in Kandy, I went to a cul- April, the rainy season being May-September.
tural performance of music and Kandian Temperatures hit a high of 31ºC on the coast, and
dance, which culminated in fire-eaters walk- range from 18-22ºC in hilly Nuwara Eliya.
ing across a pit of blazing coals as monsoon
rains lashed down. Getting there
By contrast, the atmosphere in the hilltop SriLankan Airlines (www.srilankan.aero) flies direct from London to
town of Nuwara Eliya south of Kandy and capital Colombo. Emirates (www.emirates.com) operates flights from
almost 2,000 metres above sea level was posi- London to Colombo via Dubai, Qatar Airways (www.qatarairways.com)
tively serene. A world away from the rest of via Doha and Etihad (www.etihadairways.com) via Abu Dhabi.
Sri Lanka, the lush mountains of this area are
where the British built hill stations to escape Getting around
the heat of lower regions and grow tea. Hiring a car with a driver to explore the island is relatively cheap.You can
also travel cheaply by train, with routes operated by Sri Lanka Railways
Tea plantations (www.railway.gov.lk).
Plantations of vivid green tea bushes are
draped across every available slope and Accommodation
armies of women still pick the tender, young Options range from budget hotels to luxury brands. Notable hotels include
leaves by hand, putting them in baskets slung Colombo’s Galle Face Hotel (www.gallefacehotel.com), open since 1864
on their backs held by straps over their heads. with guests including Lord Mountbatten, Nehru and US President Richard
You can visit factories to see how the tea is Nixon.The boutique Amangalla (www.amanresorts.com),
processed, try different blends and buy some in the heart of Galle’s fort, and the Vil Uyana eco-retreat
to take home. You can even stay in an old tea (www.jetwing.com) below Sigirya’s rock are others.
factory which has been turned into a hotel.
Nuwara Eliya itself is like stepping back in Tour operators
time, and is often called Little England for its Operators featuring Sri Lanka include Worldwide
atmosphere and architecture. North of Kandy, Direct Holidays (www.worldwideholidays.co.uk),
the towering Sigiriya rock has the remains of Virgin Holidays (www.virginholidays.co.uk), Somak
an ancient royal palace at its summit. Sri Holidays (www.somak.com), Key2holidays (www.key2holidays.co.uk),
Lanka’s capital for over 1,500 years, Premier Holidays (www.premierholidays.co.uk), First Choice
Anuradhapura, is a UNESCO World Heritage (www.firstchoice.co.uk), Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk), Cox & Kings
Site sacred to Buddhists and the well-preserved (www.coxandkings.com),Thomson (www.thomsonworldwide.com)
ruins include several huge, white dagobas. and Monarch Holidays (www.monarchholidays.co.uk).
Polonnaruwa also features ancient Sinhalese
ruins, among them giant Buddha statues. Tourist information
Whatever you choose to do and see in Sri Visit Sri Lanka Tourism’s website on www.srilanka.travel or call 0845 880
Lanka, your visit will overwhelm both your 6333.
senses and your emotions. Just as mine did. TL

24 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

TRAVEL update
Baby, it’s cold inside
F
or a break with a differ-
ence, why not stay in one
of three ice hotels this
winter? This will be the 20th
season of Sweden’s Icehotel,
the largest hotel made com-
pletely of snow and ice. The
temperature in its 80 rooms and
suites ranges between -5ºC and
-8ºC – positively balmy com-
pared with outside temperatures
which can drop to -37ºC.
Situated in Jukkasjarvi, 200km
inside the Arctic Circle, it is now
almost 100 times the size of the
original, which spanned 60 square
metres. Over 80 people will start
constructing the hotel in
November ready for a mid-
December opening, including 39
artists from nine countries who
See Santa on a family snow patrol
S
till on a snowy
theme, treat the
kids to an experi-
ence they will never for-
get with a trip this winter
to meet Santa Claus in
his Lapland home. High
above the Arctic Circle,
enjoy husky sled-rides,
reindeer sleigh rides and
snowmobiles, then return
to warm yourself in front
of a log fire in a tradi-
tional log cabin.
Sovereign Luxury
Holidays offers three or I Sleigh time in Lapland
four-day programmes starting from £1,799 for a
from £1,209 per adult and family of four, including
£1,065 per child, including flights, transfers, two
flights, accommodation,
excursions and Festive
Dinner. For bookings and
more information visit
www.sovereign.com or
call 0871 664 0227.
Esprit Holidays offers
two and three-night hotel
stays in Rovaniemi from
Gatwick with prices I Making friends
September/October 2009
will create its icy “art suites” with fireplace and private spa.
along with an ice-pillared hallway, Tailor Made Travel has two-
ice chandeliers and an Absolut Ice night packages, including one in
Bar, offering ice block seats cov- the Quebec ice hotel, from £199
ered in reindeer skins. per person, excluding flights.
Discover the World offers Call 0800 988 5887 or visit
packages with direct flights www.tailor-made.co.uk for
from London’s Heathrow to more details.
Kiruna Airport, 15km from the The newest and most exclu-
hotel, with three-night breaks sive ice hotel has just 10 rooms
from £886. For details, visit and is located high up in the
www.discover-the-world.co.uk wilderness of the Fagaras
or call 01737 218 800. mountains in Romania, accessi-
The Hotel de Glace, just out- ble only by cable car.
side Quebec City in Canada’s Untravelled Paths has a four-
Quebec province, is celebrating night package staying there,
its 10th anniversary and is open beginning and ending in
from January 4-April 4, 2010. Bucharest, from £360 per per-
Sleep in a cosy, Arctic sleeping I Have an ice day: son. For more information, visit
bag in one of the 36 igloo-style Quebec’s Hotel de Glace www.icehotelromania.com or
rooms and themed suites, some call 0871 662 9521.
Black stuff breaks
Celebrate the 250th
anniversary of Ireland’s
famous “black stuff”
and take an autumn
break to Dublin.The
actual anniversary,
known as Arthur’s Day,
is on September 24 –
250 years to the day of
Esprit Santa's Lapland
the signing of the lease
at the St James’s Gate
Brewery by Arthur
Tourism Ireland
Guinness.
To mark the
occasion, Irish Ferries
nights’ bed and breakfast has special deals on breakfast.
accommodation and short breaks until the While in Dublin, head
activities such as a pri- end of the year, with to the Guinness Gravity
vate family snowmobile two-night city breaks Bar on the seventh floor
safari to find Santa, a starting from £125 per of the brewery’s
visit to the Joulukka Elf person and some third- Guinness Storehouse for
School, and husky sled night-free offers.Three- a pint and a 360-degree
Esprit Santa's Lapland
and reindeer sleigh rides. night breaks start at panoramic view. For
Book Esprit Santa’s £199 per person. Deals more information on the
Lapland packages on include return ferry ferry breaks, go to
01252 618300 or visit travel and city-centre www.irishferries.co.uk
www.santaslapland.com accommodation with or call 08717 300 400.
for more details.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 25
 TRAVEL update
Take a slow boat – and
WIN a Cool Canals guide
E
ver thought of giving up
your job, selling your
house and car and going
off to live a self-sufficient
eco-life on a slow boat to
nowhere in particular?
That’s exactly what two
ladies decided to do seven
years ago, on a whim.
Having bought the shell of
a narrowboat, Bhaile, and fit-
ted it out themselves, friends
Phillippa Greenwood and
Irish-born Martine
O’Callaghan set off with their four
cats on a Bohemian lifestyle explor-
ing Britain’s inland waterways.
During their travels, the
nomadic duo realised that the
canals were a destination in their
own right, with their own lingo,
culture, landscape, heritage and
activities. Yet they could find no
up-to-date guidebooks on
Britain’s canals except naviga-
tion guides.
So they wrote their own, Cool
Long-haul winners
T op long-haul destinations
have been the biggest win-
ners this year, with more
British holidaymakers spurn-
ing short mini-breaks and tak-
ing a single trip to places such
as Thailand and Barbados,
according to the American
Express Global Foreign
New dive brochure
I f you’re inspired by our Let’s Try fea-
ture, Longwood Holidays’ new Red
Sea Diving brochure is a complete guide
to diving in the Red Sea and features
new products such as the Easy Divers
Red Sea dive centre in Hurghada, a
PADI five-star Gold Palm IDC (instruc-
tor development centre) with a wide
26 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
More connections
Following the introduction of
flights from Gatwick to
Madrid earlier this year, Air
Europa is expanding its
services to include three
weekly onward flights to
Salvador in Brazil, increasing
connections to South
American destinations.
Winter sun destinations such
as Palma and Tenerife will also
be more easily accessible.
www.aireuropa.com
British Waterways
I Mount Teide, Tenerife
I Britain’s canals are a destination in their own right
Canals, and even started their (www.waterscape.com) and
Turespana
own publishing company and from the authors’ website
printed it themselves when they (www.coolcanalsguides.com).
couldn’t find anyone to publish it. We have five copies of Cool
The book highlights how to Canals to give away. Cape Town cricket
get the best out of Britain’s To win a copy, go to
waterways, both on and off the www.choicetravelinfo.com After the Ashes summer,
canals, and helps readers discov- and click on competitions & follow England’s cricket team
er what makes them so special. giveaways, answering the follow- this winter as they take on
The first in a series of ing question: What is the name of top-ranked nation South
planned guides, it costs £14.99 Phillipa and Martine’s narrow- Africa. Sport Abroad is
and is available through British boat? Terms & conditions apply. offering a nine-night Cape
Waterways’ leisure website Closing date is October 31, 2009. Town itinerary including
flights, four-star bed and
most popular currencies, 15 are
for long-haul destinations; all-
inclusive deals to countries like
breakfast accommodation, a
New Year’s Eve cruise and
tickets for the Third Test, for
I Jamaica has been a
winner for all-inclusive deals
Jamaica and Mexico, even
after the swine flu outbreak,
£2,849 per person.Visit
www.sportabroad.co.uk
Jamaica Tourist Board
have seen increased demand. or call 0845 6803086.
The Turkish lire and the
Egyptian pound are the most
popular currencies after the
Family adventures
euro and US dollar, proving the Five new family trips,
Exchange Service Currency popularity of these value-for- including a 15-day Turtles,
Index. Of this year's top 25 money destinations. Rivers and Mountains trip to
Costa Rica and a 14-day
South Africa and Swaziland
range of diver training programmes teen adventure are in The
including beginners. They also have a Adventure Company’s new
selection of buy-one-get-one-free or
buy-one-get-one-half-price offers on
diving packages and courses at select-
Family Adventures brochure.
Book before December 20
with a £50 deposit to enter a
ed dive centres on certain dates. For draw to win the cost of a
more information, call the specialist child place back. Go to
dive team on 020 8418 2528 or visit www.adventurecompany.co.uk
www.longwoodholidays.co.uk and or call 0845 609 0890.
click the brochures tab.
September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 27
 I P&O Cruises’ Oriana in the Suez Canal

Shipsof the desert

P&O Cruises

T
he lands of Arabia and the among British holidaymakers.
Cruising the Middle East and exotic islands of the Indian The lure of this tiny emirate’s captivating
Indian Ocean is a great way to Ocean hold plenty of eastern mix of sun, sea and shopping combined with
experience these up-and- promise for cruise passengers the cultural contrast of its more traditional
looking to explore some- neighbours has proved to be irresistible to
coming holiday regions. where out of the ordinary. cruise passengers.
Sara Macefield looks If you’ve tried the Mediterranean and Cruises through the Middle East used to
dipped your toe into Caribbean waters, why be restricted to long voyages or world cruis-
at the possibilities not sail eastwards to explore the sultry sur- es, but that changed three years ago when
roundings of the Persian Gulf or dis- Italian cruise line Costa Cruises
cover the tropical outposts of started one-week round trip
I Mauritius
Mauritius, the Seychelles and sailings from Dubai.
the east coast of Africa. The rest, as they say, is
Here’s an idea of what history. Demand from
you will find: passengers, particularly
from the UK, was so
MIDDLE EAST strong that Costa dou-
Costa Cruises

This has been one of the bled the number of cruis-

cruising success stories of es by basing two ships in
recent years, fuelled by the Dubai.
I Costa has been sailing from Dubai for three years rocketing popularity of Dubai This winter, there will be
MTPA

28 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


more choice than ever before as American
cruise line Royal Caribbean International
makes its Middle Eastern debut by basing a
ship there, too.
Where do you go?
Voyages through the Persian Gulf generally
last one week and start and finish in Dubai,
making it easy for holidaymakers to add on
a few days in this famous tourism hotspot.
From here, ships sail into the heart of the
Middle East, generally following the same
route.
Ports of call include Muscat in Oman,
renowned for having one of the oldest civili-
sations in the Arabian Peninsula, and
Fujairah in the United Arab Emirates, an
ideal jumping off point from which to
explore the desert.
Then there’s the capital of the emirates,
Abu Dhabi, where passengers can go ashore
to barter in the gold souks, ride the desert
dunes on 4x4 safaris and admire the opu-
lence of the unique Emirates Palace hotel.
Another stop is the tiny island of Bahrain,
a great trading empire of ancient times that
is now better known for its liberal culture,
making it popular with tourists.
The Dubai cruising season
tends to run from
December to May, but I Bahrain
if you’re looking for
a longer cruise
through the Middle
East, several dif-
ferent cruise lines
offer sailings dur-
ing winter, spring
and autumn.
These tend to be
cruises sailing between the
Mediterranean and the Far East
which cut through the Suez Canal and sail
along the Red Sea.
En route, ports of call include Port Said
or Alexandria on Egypt’s Mediterranean
coast from where the pyramids of Cairo and
other ancient attractions await.
Red Sea
In the Red Sea, the port of Aqaba in Jordan
is the gateway to the ancient city of Petra,
which can be reached on a day trip, and
other ancient wonders.
Sharm el Sheikh, on Egypt’s Sinai coast, is
a lively hub of hotels, bars and shops, but is
also famous for its fabulous diving, while
western Red Sea port Safaga boasts similarly-
September/October 2009
all ABOARD
MIDDLE EAST & INDIAN OCEAN CRUISING
Middle East & Indian Ocean facts
Sample cruises
Costa Cruises (0845 351 0552, www.costacruises.co.uk) is offering a
one-week cruise from Dubai, calling at Bahrain, Abu Dhabi, Fujairah and
Muscat, from £499 on January 9, 2010. Flights extra.
Silverseas Cruises (0844 770 9030, www.silversea.com) is offering a 16-
day Isles of the Indian Ocean sailing from Dubai on December 4 to the
Seychelles. Ports of call include Muscat, Mumbai, Sri Lanka and Seychelles
islands such as Praslin and La Digue. Prices are from £2,897 and flights and
ports charges are extra.
Other useful cruise contacts:
Cunard Line (0845 678 0013, www.cunard.co.uk)
Crystal Cruises (020 7287 9040,
www.crystalcruises.co.uk)
Starwood Hotels
MSC Cruises (0844 561 1955, www.msccruises.co.uk)
Oceania Cruises (01344 772344,
www.oceaniacruises.co.uk)
P&O Cruises (0845 678 0014, www.pocruises.com)
Regent Seven Seas Cruises (02380 682280, www.rssc.co.uk)
Royal Caribbean International (0844 493 4005, www.royalcaribbean.co.uk)
Saga Cruises (0800 096 0079, www.saga.co.uk/travel)
Spirit of Adventure (0800 015 6984, www.spiritofadventure.co.uk)
Swan Hellenic (0845 246 9700, www.swanhellenic.com)
Thomson Cruises (0871 231 5938, www.thomson.co.uk/cruise)
Voyages of Discovery (0845 018 1808, www.voyagesofdiscovery.co.uk)
Yachts of Seabourn (0845 070 0500, www.seabourn.com)
Check out the website of the Passenger Shipping Association, which
represents all the main cruise lines, at www.discover-cruises.co.uk
impressive underwater attractions. One of the first easterly points that ships
Once they reach the Gulf of come across is the port city of Aden in
Aden, ships can either head south Yemen, a fascinating former British colony
down the east coast of Africa and where the remains of its years spent under
towards the Indian Ocean or east imperialist rule can still be seen.
towards the Persian Gulf and India. Farther along this stretch of coast is
Banditry at sea
It’s not all plain sailing in this region. In recent years the Gulf of Aden has gained a
somewhat notorious reputation as the pirate capital of the world’s waterways
following a string of attacks by boatloads of Somali bandits on ships passing through.
While commercial vessels have been the main targets, cruise ships have also been
chased – though, so far, all of them have managed to escape their would-be attackers.
Larger cruise ships have the power to outrun the pirate boats and take evasive
action, but smaller, more vulnerable ships have to be more careful.
Some make sure they join the naval convoys going through the region while others
have altered itineraries to avoid the area altogether.
Italian cruise line MSC Cruises had the closest skirmish earlier this year when shots
were exchanged between the pirates and its onboard security team.
The ship and its passengers came through the confrontation unscathed, but the
cruise line has since announced that it is changing its itineraries to avoid the area.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 29
 Cruise tips
G Persian Gulf cruises are rich in
culture but, apart from Dubai, they
don’t offer much else in the way of
tourist attractions.
G Costa Cruises and Royal Caribbean
International ships spend a night in
Dubai at the start and the end of each
cruise, giving passengers ample
opportunity to explore the emirate
without having to pay high hotel rates.
G It may be hot, but ladies need to
remember to cover up and dress
respectfully if they are going ashore,
especially in more traditional areas.
G Longer cruises that visit the Middle
East may be described as
repositioning cruises, where ships
move between the Mediterranean
and the Far East.They may also be
sectors on world cruises.
Salalah, Oman’s second-largest town and the
so-called perfume capital of Arabia thanks to
the abundance of frankincense trees growing
in the town’s surprisingly-lush surroundings.
INDIAN OCEAN
Like the Caribbean, the Indian Ocean is a
beautiful, tropical escape that was made for
cruising.
You can choose the beach paradise of
Mauritius, with its picture-perfect stretches
of dazzling white sand, or the stunning land-
scape of the Seychelles islands, renowned
for their incredible beauty, rich wildlife and
French colonial charm.
Then there’s Madagascar, an island with
a rich culture, owing to its diverse combina-
tion of European, Indian, African and Arabic
influences; the “spice island” of Zanzibar; or
the unspoilt Comoros Islands, known for
their rustic traditions and crafts.
But one of the highlights of cruises to this
area is the chance to go wild in Africa.
By stopping at the Kenyan beach resort
of Mombasa, passengers can travel beyond
the ivory white sands lining the coast to
view the spectacular vast, grassy plains of
the Masai Mara.
This is the place to discover the traditions
and rituals of Masai tribesman and the rich
wildlife that makes Kenya one of the world’s
most sought-after safari destinations.
Like the Middle East, voyages through
the Indian Ocean and along the East African
coast are mainly restricted to ships passing
through on longer sailings, but Costa is a
notable exception as it offers 14-night cruis-
es from Mauritius in winter. TL
30 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
CRUISE SHIP Review
I Sleek and stylish: Celebrity's
new ship impresses
Jumping aboard:
Whether you’ve cruised before or not,
this new ship from Celebrity Cruises
cannot fail to impress.
Its sleek and stylish design makes it a
cut above most other cruise ships, but
the most novel attraction has to be The
Lawn Club - half an acre of real grass that
covers part of the deck like a green
blanket.
This is the place to practise putting; try
your hand at bocce ball (which is a bit
like bowls); or simply sit down with a
drink and admire the view.
On the edge of the lawn is another
unusual, and entertaining, feature – the
Hot Glass Show, where glass-blowers
breathe life into their molten creations.
But the main hub of the action is
around the two main swimming pools and
the deck bathing fountain, which was a
magnet for excited children who ran
excitedly through the jets of water as
they shot randomly into the air.
Mealtimes were also a treat.The
striking ivory and silver Grand Epernay
I Play croquet
on real grass
Celebrity Cruises
Celebrity Solstice
fa c t b ox
Celebrity Solstice
Cruise line: Celebrity Cruises
(www.celebritycruises.co.uk)
Cruise: One-week Eastern Caribbean
cruise from Fort Lauderdale to Puerto
Rico, St Maarten and St Kitts
Facilities: Spa, Lawn Club, glass-
blowing show, 19 shops, three
swimming pools, 10 dining venues
Shipshape
G Great restaurants
G Lots to do
G Wide choice of bars
G Good for kids
That sinking feeling
G Cabin space a bit tight
G Inflexible dining in main restaurant
dining room was the best I’ve seen on a
large ship, matched by delicious five-
course dinners.
There were numerous other
restaurants to choose from, though they
carried an extra charge of up to $30 per
head. However, the Italian Tuscan Grille
and fine-dining Murano restaurants were
impressive for their food and service.
Dining here did feel very select and
special.
Celebrity Solstice is a ship that can
Celebrity Cruises
cater for the most sophisticated of tastes,
but it also has a fun side that ensures that
it carries plenty of kids appeal.
Sara Macefield
September/October 2009
 CRUISE news
CRUISE CLIPS Lines tempt new cruisers
The BBC’s Strictly Come

W
ith around 1.5 million Britons going
Dancing show has spawned a cruising each year, cruise lines are
surge in demand for dance- doing more than ever to tempt them
themed holidays, according to on-board. The second annual National Cruise
cruise travel agency Week in September saw a stream of special
cruise deals and value-added incentives, helping
to showcase cruising to a wider audience.
“Cruising boasts a world of opportunity and
with a record number of Brits embracing cruising
last year, we are pleased to report that in spite of
the recession, the exceptional value of cruise holi-
days means they are still immensely popular, said
Bill Gibbons, director of the Passenger Shipping
Association.
“National Cruise Week celebrates that success
BBC Pictures

I Bruce and co have got and welcomes new-to-cruise passengers to get

Strictly fans all at sea onboard.”
It’s a busy time for the cruise industry.
Cruise118. Several lines offer November sees the march of the “mega-ships”
themed sailings, while Island with the launch of the world’s largest ship, Oasis

Cruises runs its own version of the Seas.
with two of the show’s Owner Royal Caribbean International expects
professional stars, Darren to take cruising to a new level with this record-
Bennett and Lilia Kopylova. breaking vessel.
It will hold a staggering 5,400 passengers and
is so big it will be split into seven distinct neigh-
bourhoods, including Central Park, based on New
York, and Boardwalk, inspired by English seaside
piers and classic American boardwalks. That will
Saga Cruises
RCI
I Computer-generated image of the carousel on Oasis of the Seas
feature a full-size, hand-painted carousel ride, the
first at sea.
Other highlights include a zipwire suspended
across the deck, a Rising Tide Bar which moves
between decks as the ship sails along, and an
amphitheatre-style stern Aquatheatre for ambi-
tious water-based shows.

ting single supplements by up to

half, bringing them down to
I End of the line 30% on some sailings.
for Saga Rose Mediterranean cruise line
Louis Cruises has waived single
October 30 marks the final supplements on its weekly
voyage of Saga Cruises’ cruises from Athens until
flagship, Saga Rose, but its October 23.
Costa Cruises

replacement, Saga Pearl II will Fred Olsen Cruise Lines has

be launched next March with I Costa Cruises is slashing single supplements more than 200 single cabins
an inaugural cruise from across its ships and single supple-

Solo sailors
Southampton to Norway. ments average at 65%, though on
some sailings they are reduced.
A new cruise line called Hurtigruten does not charge
Cruise & Maritime Voyages is single supplements on most of

being set up to offer cruises
from the UK in 2010 on two
ships. One of them, Marco
Polo, will offers sailings from
Tilbury while sister ship Ocean
Countess will sail from ports
including Hull, Newcastle,
Greenock and Plymouth.
T
aking a cruise can be the price for a two-berth cabin. its sailings while Voyages of
perfect holiday for solo But more lines are now cater- Discovery also runs cruises with
travellers wanting to ing for lone passengers by reduced or no extra charges for
meet like-minded companions either reducing single charges lone travellers.
in sociable surroundings. or adding specially-designed Companies such as Holland
The main disadvantage can single cabins to their ships. America Line and Transocean
be the high rate of single supple- Costa Cruises is the latest Cruises run so-called share pro-
ments which means lone passen- line to act on this. For all book- grammes enabling strangers (of
gers can end up paying the full ings after December 1, it is cut- the same sex) to pair up.

32 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 in your FLIGHT BAG

Hygiene when No sweat for Sure!

you need it Sure Maximum Protection for
men and women is an anti-
perspirant deodorant that
provides 48-hour protection

A
ndrex On the Go the solution on your from sweat, while caring for
Antibacterial hands or surfaces and your underarms.
Spray guarantees allow it to dry. Sure Maximum Protection is
to kill 99.9% of bacteria. Andrex On the Go formulated with TRIsolid
More versatile than anti- Antibacterial Spray innovative body response
bacterial hand gels and comes in a handy 50ml technology which contains three important
foams, this alcohol-free spray bottle and fits per- components:
spray not only cleans fectly into a handbag or G Maximum wetness protection
and refreshes hands, it’s pocket so that it can be G Encapsulated odour-fighting technology –
also effective in disin- used whenever and wher- fragrance is released when sweating begins
fecting hard surfaces ever it’s needed. G Skin moisturising ingredient
such as door handles, Andrex On the Go Sure Women and Sure Men
toilet seats or even a Antibacterial Spray is Maximum Protection anti-
child’s high chair. Better available at selected UK perspirant deodorants are
still, there is no need to retailers, priced £1.99. available from leading chemists
add water; simply spray and supermarkets with an RRP of
£4.99 for 45ml. For a list of
stockists, call the Sure Customer

Liven up your flight with Careline on 0800 085 2639.

a pair of funky Moccis Getting it covered

N
ot only are they very practical
but Moccis look good, too.
Each pair is made by hand
with delicate hand stitching in the only
moccasin factory in Sweden and, to
ensure the best possible quality,
Moccis are made of natural ecotex-cer-
tified materials. The leather sole is
durable and flexible, allowing the foot
to move freely, and the moccasin has
double elastic at the ankle which will
prevent it from falling off. They are
perfect for long haul flights and winter
skiing holidays.
Moccis are not just for children, the
whole family can now enjoy them!
Baby and junior Moccis cost £18 and
adult ones are £26.
Go to www.moccis.co.uk, where
you can register your details for quicker
shopping, view all collections, check
out what’s new and what’s coming soon,
find the nearest stockist, view
favourites and create a wish list.
G WIN one of two pairs of adult Moccis.
Go to www.choicetravelinfo.com and
click on competitions & giveaways.
Terms & conditions apply. Closing date
October 30, 2009.
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If you find it too hard to leave your netbook at
home, then the least you can do is protect it with
a bright and colourful memory
foam sleeve from Be.ez.
Shock absorbing and
extremely durable, the
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are compatible with 8.9”
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G To WIN one of four Be.ez
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September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 33

 in your SUITCASE

Fit-flopping fantastic
Get a workout while you walk with FitFlops.They
help improve your posture, tone your calves, your
thighs and your bum muscles, and have been
reported to provide relief from conditions
including chronic back pain and sciatica.
The secret is a midsole using patent-pending
“microwobbleboard” technology which increases
leg muscle activity by approximately 10-12%

Ta ta to
every time you take a step.
You don’t have to walk miles every day to
notice a difference.You can wear them in your

tummy trouble
holiday apartment, around the pool or to the
local shops – and even Julianne Moore and Oprah
have been seen sporting them.
FitFlops have an RRP of £44 and
come in a range of colours and

L
styles, so simply choose your ife’s-Biotic is the to such troubles. Take mula provides good live
favourite pair and begin first pro-biotic you Life’s Biotic before and bacteria to help keep the
working out while you can keep in your during your holiday to digestive system healthy.
walk. suitcase and not in the preserve good gut flora A pack of seven 7ml
For store listings go to fridge. and enhance your vials (no water needed)
www.fitflop.com/wheretobuy Embarrassing and immune system, helping has an RRP of £6.59, and
uncomfortable problems, to fight off harmful bac- is available from inde-
Protect your skin from particularly infectious
diarrhoea, can surprise
teria and even viruses.
Life’s-Biotic is a new
pendent and national
pharmacies. Life’s-Biotic
the elements many on holiday, even
those who are not prone
scientifically-proven pro-
biotic and its unique for-
is also available in
sachets and capsules.
Liz Earle Naturally with the Sun Try-Me
Active Skincare was Kit – a portable

Be an Island Girl
the skincare sponsor collection of miniature
of Cowes Week 2009, protectors and
which took place in revivers comprising:

with Papillon Bleu

August. Professionals Face Protector SPF25
were on hand to offer (15ml), Body
protection from the Protector SPF15
elements to sailors (30ml), Aftersun Gel

B
and spectators (30ml) and a ursting with Caribbean flavour,
throughout the refreshing Instant the new Island Girl collection
competition. Boost Skin Tonic from Papillon Bleu features 17
Based on the Spritzer (30ml) plus a sensual silhouettes to take you from
picturesque Isle of zip-up kit bag.With beach to bar and beyond.
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the finest-quality, pomegranate and natural fabrics, soft cotton voiles and
naturally-active natural source vitamin silk cotton blends, Island Girl is a mod-
ingredients for its E, they help to protect ern, free-flowing collection of dresses,
botanically-based skin from free-radical tops, cover-ups, skirts and trousers.
skincare range. damage caused by the With gorgeous hues of zesty
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Sun Shade solutions to Liz Earle Naturally Papillon Bleu’s exquisite hand-embell-
the test Active Skincare is ished pieces can be worn day or night.
available online at The Island Girl Cruise Collection is
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calling 01983 813913. Visit www.papillonbleu.com for
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34 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 35
 Cayman Islands Department of Tourism /Jay Easterbrook
I Spectacular colours in the Cayman Islands

Take the
plunge
I
From youngsters to pensioners, almost anyone was not more than 10 or 15 feet
underwater. It was calm and warm,
can learn to dive – and where better to start than and just a few yards from the shore
on holiday in crystal-clear waters? Adam Coulter off Playa del Carmen, on Mexico’s
Riviera Maya. And then I started to
(pictured right) learnt in Mexico and is get nervous.
now a committed convert “What if the air stops,” I thought. “How
will I get to the surface?
Background picture: Sandals

36 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 ??
?
? let’s TRY…
ing, like a slow, hand wave, up and down, up
and down…I followed his lead and then a
few seconds later my breathing stabilised,
my head cleared and I looked around.
Off in the distance, the dark shape began
to materialise – a turtle.
I smiled and pointed at it, and then we
both swam towards it, slowly and calmly.
That was my first-ever dive and I shall
never forget it.
Most people get nervous the first time
they try diving – it is, after all, an unnatural
Club Med
I Diving in the Maldives
with Club Med situation. But with the right instructor and
environment it could well be the start of a
life-long love affair.
I Coming up for
air in St Lucia It has been for me. Since that date, I have
clocked up more than 100 dives and taken
numerous courses, and I am now a Master
Scuba Diver, which is the highest non-pro-
fessional qualification recognised by the
Professional Association of Diving
Instructors (PADI).
Diving was once the preserve of explor-
ers and adventurers, but it is now open to
almost anyone thanks to Cousteau’s inven-
tion of the self-contained underwater breath-
ing apparatus (hence the acronym, scuba).
St Lucia Tourist Board
And although there are upper and lower
age limits, as well as certain pre-existing
health conditions that might preclude you,
essentially it is accessible as a round of
golf…except under water.
I A dive certification
course in the Cayman Accredited centres
Islands The key consideration when choosing
where in the world to dive is to ensure that
the resort is an accredited dive centre.
The three main dive associations which
provide this accreditation are PADI, BSAC
(British Sub-Aqua Club) and NAUI
(National Association of Scuba Instructors).
Cayman Islands Department of Tourism
PADI is by far the largest with presence
in 180 countries and more than 5,300 dive
centres and resorts worldwide. It has a wide
range of courses to take you from novice to
experienced diver.
BSAC is mainly confined to the UK, but
has 300 overseas centres and also offers
range of courses.
NAUI is the choice of US Navy Seals and
“What if a shark suddenly appears?” NASA pilots. However it has limited pres-
“What’s that dark shape over there?” ence worldwide.
My instructor, Henri, a Jacques
Cousteau-type character with a great big Beginner courses
grey, drooping moustache and hang-dog A beginner course takes about three to five
eyes, sensed my concern. days (depending on resort), usually includ-
He took hold of my hand, looked me in ing five dives. But it is not just about jump-
my eyes and made the sign for slow breath- ing in the water; it also involves theory,
September/October 2009
LEARNING TO DIVE
which means sitting in a classroom learning
the amount of residual nitrogen left in your
body after a one-hour dive and such-
like…perhaps not the best way to spend
your two weeks by the sea.
One option is to do the theory in the UK
before you leave – and get straight in the sea
when you arrive in resort. Another is to take
an online course, like a distance learning
course, and you’ll be ready to dive when you
get there.
Some all-inclusive resort operators such
as Club Med, Mark Warner, Sandals and
SuperClubs include free diving, and some-
times a try-dive session. Courses cost extra
but less than at other centres.
The great thing about diving is that once
you have mastered the basics and you feel
confident and comfortable about being in
the water, the sea really is your oyster.
Here is where you can learn:
The Mediterranean
Malta is widely regarded as the best spot in
the Med to learn to dive due to its spectacu-
lar underwater scenery, in particular around
the island of Gozo. Greece has recently
relaxed its restrictions on diving and there
are also some good spots in Cyprus, the
Balearics and south-eastern Spain.
However, the drawback with diving any-
where in the Med is that there is little or
often nothing to see in terms of marine life
or corals. Sadly, the ravages of mass fishing
techniques have taken their toll.
The Red Sea
Egypt: The Red Sea Riviera, which
includes the resorts of Sharm el Sheikh,
Hurghada and Taba, is one of the most pop-
ular places to learn to dive. It is accessible
(less than five hours’ flight time), reason-
ably-priced, well-regulated and full of
accredited dive centres. The beauty of the
Red Sea is the sheer number of dive sites
available in a relatively small area. Probably
the best place for a beginner is Sharm
because the sea there is sheltered. Diving is
in areas including Ras Mohammed National
Park, so the corals are pristine and sea life
abundant.
Israel: Gentle currents, shallow waters
and good visibility make Eilat ideal for
learning to dive. The coast here is a marine
reserve. Highlights include Japanese
Gardens, a protected area near the border
with Egypt with breathtaking coral forma-
tions and teeming with fish.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 37

I Diving in Malta
Mexico
The Riviera Maya has all the attributes to
put a beginner at ease: calm, clear and warm
sea (an average of almost 27ºC year-round),
the second-largest barrier reef in the world
and excellent dive centres. Plus a hyperbar-
ic (or recompression) chamber in Playa del
Carmen for emergencies.
It also has another added attraction
unique in the world – huge freshwater caves,
known as cenotes, with crystal-clear water.
The Caribbean
The Caribbean in general is an excellent
area for the novice diver, and there are a
number of stand-out places to take your first
tentative steps into the underwater world.
St Lucia is top of my list. The island has
all the attributes of the Riviera Maya, with
one huge bonus: a reef that you can literally
walk to from the shore.
A stretch of the western coastline was
declared a marine reserve sanctuary 14 years
ago, and since then the reef has flourished.
The most accessible part is just off Anse
Chastanet Beach, where Scuba St Lucia runs
beginners courses.
The Bahamas is also excellent for
novice divers, for the extraordinary number
of sites at which to learn and its rich marine
life. The Bahamas has a lot of sharks,
although most are harmless.
Barbados also offers a gentle environ-
ment ideal for learner divers, although the
reef here is not in the same league as that of
St Lucia.
The Cayman Islands are great for
learning to dive and also a real challenge for
38 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
I Vibrant
corals in the
Red Sea
Regaldive
Tips
Malta Tourism Authority
Before you dive
G If you don’t feel 100% comfortable
then don’t dive.
G Talk through the dive in detail with
your instructor to allay any fears you
may have.
the expert. Clear waters and a shallow reef G Don’t drink alcohol the night prior to
near shore suit beginners; and as all three a dive or have a big breakfast just
islands are submerged mountains, there are before diving.
deep walls just offshore with incredible
marine life. The most famous is Little During your dive
Cayman’s Bloody Bay Wall. G If you get nervous the first time, get
Grenada is another spot perfect for both back in again; it’s always better the
novices and experts. Most dive sites are near second time.
the shore, marine life abounds and visibility G Try not to think about breathing – let
is excellent year-round. Grenada also has the it happen automatically, and enjoy the
Caribbean's largest shipwreck, the Bianca C. view.
The best place to learn in Jamaica is in G Keep breathing – don’t hold your
the sheltered waters off Negril, a protected breath at any point.
marine park. Other good sites are along the
west and north coasts, including Montego And remember: sharks don’t attack
Bay, Ocho Rios and Runaway Bay. divers – there have been no known diver
Little-known Dominica has pristine fatalities from shark attacks.
coral and giant sponges, and regularly wins
awards for the beauty and variety of its dive I Stingray
sites. It has also become known as the City, off
Grand
whale-watching capital of the Caribbean. Cayman
Other islands with excellent diving and
learning facilities include Aruba, Bonaire,
Curacao, the Dominican Republic and
the Turks & Caicos.
Florida
North America’s only living coral barrier
reef and the third longest barrier reef in the
Cayman Islands Department of Tourism
world lies just off the Florida Keys, and it
offers the best diving in Florida. The Florida
Keys National Marine Sanctuary surrounds
the entire archipelago and protects 2,800
square nautical miles. It also has several
artificial reefs – wrecks sunk deliberately as
havens for fish and corals – including a new
one sunk in May. This stretch of coast offers
frequent sightings of harmless reef sharks.
September/October 2009
 Learn to dive facts
Who can dive?
Anyone from eight to 85 years old. You can’t dive if you are pregnant, have
sinus problems, epilepsy, chronic asthma or heart problems. It’s also not
advisable to dive if you have a cold.

Courses
Centres affiliated to diving organisations offer courses around the world.
PADI has a Seal Team course open to eight-year-olds,
which teaches them the basics of diving. At 10
years old, they can do the Junior Open Water
Aruba.fotoseeker.com Diver and at 12 the Junior Advanced, both of
which carry depth restrictions.

Regaldive
For holidaymakers curious to try it, there are
two short courses available: Discover Scuba
I Diving off Aruba Diving, a one-day course including one pool
session and one sea dive; and Scuba Diver, a
The Far East two-day course with three theory sessions, two
The sheltered waters of the Gulf of pool dives and two sea dives. All count towards the
Thailand, off Thailand, are one of the best Open Water certification.
places in the world to learn diving. The sea From 15 years old, you can do the adult courses: Open Water, Advanced,
is always warm and generally calm with Rescue and Master. All include various speciality courses.
excellent visibility (outside of rainy season),
and despite the rather lax enforcement of Equipment needed
rules in marine reserves, the marine life is Dive centres will kit you out with everything, for a price. So if you plan on
extraordinary. diving a lot it is worthwhile buying the basics: a wetsuit, fins, snorkel and
The best spots for beginners are Koh mask. A dive computer is great to have but they cost £300-plus.
Samui, which includes the Ang Thong
Marine Reserve, and the Phi Phi Islands, Associations and UK dive centres
also in a national marine park. The setting, PADI: www.padi.com; NAUI: www.naui.org; BSAC: www.bsac.com.
beauty of the corals and sheer variety of fish UK dive centres include Diving Leisure London: 020 7924 4106,
are hard to beat. The quality of instruction is www.divingleisurelondon.co.uk
excellent, and it is also far cheaper than the
Caribbean. Resort operators
Club Med: www.clubmed.co.uk; Mark Warner:
The Maldives www.markwarner.co.uk; Sandals: www.sandals.co.uk; SuperClubs:
It’s hard to beat the Maldives if you are www.superclubs.com; Couples: www.couples.com
looking to try diving for the first time.
Every island is a coral atoll, so you are Dive operators
effectively on the reef and only have to Several tour operators offer holidays with diving
swim a few yards from the beach. The water courses.They include:
is bathwater-warm and the visibility is usu- Longwood Holidays: 020 8418 2570,
TL
Aruba.fotoseeker.com

ally excellent. www.longwoodholidays.co.uk; Regaldive:

01353 659 999, www.regal-diving.co.uk;
Explorers: 0871 231 4932,
www.explorers.co.uk; Peltours: 0844 225
0120, www.peltours.com; Kuoni: 01306
Egyptian State Tourist Office

747 002, www.kuoni.co.uk; Dive Worldwide:

0845 130 6980, www.diveworldwide.com;
Barefoot Traveller: 020 8741 4319,
www.barefoot-traveller.com;
I A turtle in the Goldenjoy Dive: 0871 226 8701, www.goldenjoydive.com
Red Sea off Egypt
Sample package
Explorers (now part of Thomson Holidays) has a learn-to-dive holiday with
When he is not planning his next dive flights from £499 per person for seven nights at the Ocean Club, in Sharm
holiday, Adam Coulter writes for a el Sheikh, including PADI Scuba Diver course. For details, go to:
number of publications including Spectator www.explorers.co.uk/learn_to_dive.aspx
Business, Routes News, Buying Business Travel
and Sport Diver magazine.

40 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


WIN a week’s holiday for two
in the Azores with Sunvil
H
ere is your chance to win a
seven-night holiday for two to
the pristine islands of the
Azores, worth £1,500.
Part of the portfolio of independent travel
company Sunvil, the Azores are nine emer-
ald-green islands set in the Atlantic Ocean
between Portugal and North America. These
unspoilt islands, less than four hours by air
from the UK, are home to naturally blue and
green lakes, extinct volcanoes, lush valleys
and rugged coastlines.
Having operated holidays for nearly 40
years, Sunvil has helped tens of thousands of
customers discover the real heart and soul of
countries on tailor-made trips to stunning des-
tinations worldwide. Sunvil specialises in help-
ing holidaymakers escape off the beaten track
and is the leading tour operator to the Azores.
It has a team of experienced staff ready
to share their local knowledge and top tips,
to make sure you make the most of your hol-
iday. One experience you definitely don’t
want to miss is whale-watching; the Azores
rank as one of the best sites in Europe for
observing whales and are one of just a few
places on earth where you can see sperm
whale pods of females with their offspring.
Back on dry land, there’s plenty more to
do. For starters, there are more than 850 res-
ident flowering plants and ferns, making the
islands a haven for birds – and for bird-
watchers. There are also numerous small
towns where you can enjoy meeting the
locals and soaking up the slow pace of life.
Whatever your preferences, Sunvil will
help hand-pick the location, accommodation
and experiences that best suit your individ-
ual tastes and requirements. If you’re inter-
ested in discovering the real country, further
details about tailor-made packages to the
Azores and Sunvil’s other destinations can
be found by visiting the company’s website:
www.sunvil.co.uk
September/October 2009
COMPETITION
All photos: Sunvil
How to enter
To win, simply answer the following question.
Question: Which is the smallest of the
nine islands in the Azores archipelago?
To enter please go to
www.choicetravelinfo.com and click
on the competition & giveaways button.
See the website for terms & conditions.
Closing date is October 30, 2009. The
first correct entry drawn will win.
READER OFFER
Discover the real Azores
with this special Reader Offer
Sunvil is offering readers of The Travel and
Leisure Magazine 10% off the brochure
price for selected holidays to Sao Miguel
in the Azores. Special discount prices
start at £593 per person, including seven
nights’ bed and breakfast accommodation,
return flights and transfers.
The quoted price is based on seven
nights’ accommodation with two people
sharing on B&B basis at the Hotel Vila
Nova, Ponta Delgada, transfers and flights
from Gatwick to Sao Miguel in April
2010. Manchester flights cost an extra
£15 per person.
The offer is valid for bookings taken
before December 31, 2009. Quote code
Travel&Leisure09 when making bookings.
Call 020 8758 4722 or visit
www.sunvil.co.uk
The prize
Sunvil is giving you the opportunity to
explore the Azores with a fantastic seven-
night holiday to the “green island” of Sao
Miguel. The prize, worth £1,500, is for two
people and includes: seven nights’ accom-
modation at the Hotel Talisman, Ponta
Delgada, sharing a twin/double room on bed
and breakfast basis, return flights with
SATA from Gatwick or Manchester to Sao
Miguel and resort transfers.
Clients must travel in 2010 between April
and October, excluding high season (July-
August). Entrants must be over 18 years of
age. Other terms & conditions also apply. TL
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 41
42 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
 pack your CLUBS
LISBON GOLF COAST, PORTUGAL

Capital P
ortugal has become synony-
mous with golf holidays in
the UK, thanks to the popu-
larity of the Algarve. It has
established itself as one of the

attraction
top winter destinations for
British golfers.
But another region of the country 300km
to the north is now making a name for itself
as a golf destination, offering golf year-
round on courses every bit as good and with
uncrowded fairways and cheaper green fees
– the Lisbon Golf Coast.
Spanning the Atlantic coastal area around
Portugal’s elegant capital, Estoril and
I Teeing off on Cascais, the area has seen the number of
Penha Longa's courses increase rapidly in recent years as its
16th hole popularity has grown.
There are now two dozen high-quality
courses within an hour of the centre of
Lisbon set amidst coastal dunes, hills, plains
and pine forests. Many have been designed
by some of golf’s top architects. But Lisbon
is no new kid on the golfing block. Among
its courses are Portugal’s two oldest – Lisbon
Sports Club, originally founded by English
residents in 1880, and the 80-year-old
Estoril Golf Club.
The Lisbon Golf Coast has earned recog-
nition from golf tour operators around the
world for the quality and variety of its golf.
They voted it Established Golf Destination of
the Year for 2003 in the golf industry’s
“Oscars”, the annual IAGTO Awards staged
by global golf tourism industry association
IAGTO. That honour was followed by the
region being named European Golf
Destination of the Year in the 2007 awards.
For golfers who want to mix a bit of cul-
ture and nightlife with their golf, the Lisbon
area is perfect. You can either make the city
your base and drive out to play different
Lisbon may lag behind the Algarve in terms of courses by day while exploring the city in
the late afternoons and evenings, or you can
awareness among British golfers but the Portuguese stay in luxury resorts where the fairways are
capital’s top-drawer facilities have earned it a string a stroll away from your room.
Peter Ellegard

of accolades, as Peter Ellegard reports Top facilities in the area include Penha
Longa, which has a Ritz-Carlton hotel
alongside and 27 holes of golf by Robert
Trent Jones Jr. The 18-hole Atlantic course
is one of the area’s must-plays and has twice
staged the Portuguese Open.
Its signature hole, the par-4 6th, is one of
the region’s most iconic holes, the highlight
Lisboa Golf Coast

being a Roman aqueduct which runs behind

Peter Ellegard

a green cupped by a lake. Other notable

holes include the par-4 16th, the stroke
I Quinta do Peru I Bom Sucesso is the region’s newest course
index one hole which starts with an elevated

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 43

 Lisbon VCB
Peter Ellegard

Lisbon VCB
I Rua Augusta

I Monument to the Discoveries, Lisbon I Belem Tower

Just capital
Lisbon is a city full of vitality, history and beauty while the surrounding region offers a
taste of the “real” Portugal not found around the mass tourism resorts to the south.
The area enjoys a mild climate year-round, and the capital is full of historic
neighbourhoods which are perfect for exploring on foot. Among places worth lingering
in is Baixa, the traditional shopping area through which runs the main shopping street of
Rua Augusta. High-end boutiques line Avenida da Liberdade, once the favourite
promenade for Lisbon’s 19th century elite.
There are more designer boutiques in Bairro Alto, along with lively bars and cafes.
History abounds in the capital’s old quarters, including Alfama, Castelo and Mouraria, on I The Westin
the hill crowned by St George’s Castle. And Belem’s waterfront boasts the fortified CampoReal's land
was once a royal
Belem Tower, Jeronimo’s Monastery and the Monument to the Discoveries. hunting ground

tee, inviting golfers to drive to a landing area
peppered with waiting bunkers where it
doglegs to the right and climbs back up to a
green perched on a plateau. The finishing
hole has another elevated tee, giving a stir-
ring view of the hotel surrounded by trees.
For high handicappers, the nine-hole
Monastery course, named for a nearby
ancient Monastery, offers a less-hilly and
more forgiving experience.
Praia d’El Rey, another top-drawer
course, is a traditional links layout spread
out along dunes and cliffs overlooking the
Atlantic and interspersed with pine trees.
Located near Obidos, a town surrounded by
recognised as a Gold Signature Sanctuary by
environmental organisation Audubon
International. Opened in 2001 in the Sintra-
Cascais Nature Reserve at Quinta da Marinha,
Oitavos was designed by Arthur Hills and
spans three environments: a forest of umbrella
pine trees, dunes and an open coastal area.
Robert Trent Jones Sr’s championship
course at nearby Hotel Quinta da Marinha
Peter Ellegard
minutes east of Lisbon airport. The
Ribagolfe I and II courses are both par 72
creations by European Golf Design, while
Santo Estevado is a par 73 by Donald Steel.
Another Steel layout is at the heart of
CampoReal Resort, in the rural Oeste (west)
region and also just a 30-minute drive from
Lisbon. A residential, golf and leisure devel-
opment which includes a five-star Westin
hotel, its name translates literally as “the
Royal Meadow” and comes from the fact
that the first kings of Portugal used the area
as their personal hunting ground.
The course cuts through natural vegeta-
tion including cork-oak, olive and fragrant

Medieval walls, the course is part of Praia
d’El Rey Golf & Country Club – named
Europe’s Golf Resort of the Year in the 2007
IAGTO Awards.
Half an hour’s drive south of Lisbon,
Troia is set on a long, sandy peninsula sepa-
rating the Sado River estuary from the
Atlantic Ocean. Designed by Robert Trent
Jones Sr, Troia serves up a real test for low
handicap golfers without unduly penalising
more modest players. Its scenic location,
with the dramatic backdrop of the Arrabida
mountains and alongside a long stretch of
unspoilt beaches, gives the course a wild and
natural beauty teeming with birdlife. It was
ranked 25 out of Europe’s Top 100 Courses
by Golf World, and you can stay on-site at
Troia Resort’s four-star aparthotel.
Nature is also a feature of Oitavos Dunes,
to the extent that it became the first course in
Europe and only the second in the world to be
I Praia d’el Ray
Resort has staged PGA Challenge Tour and
Seniors Tour events. Its back nine runs along
cliff tops offering stunning views over the
Atlantic, with the par-4 13th hole dropping
towards the sea. The resort includes a recent-
ly-renovated five-star hotel and is also sur-
rounded by the Sintra-Cascais reserve.
Quinta do Peru, in the Azeitao area south
of the Tagus River, is set in a country estate
of pine and cork trees.
New openings are helping to maintain the
high quality of courses in the region. Among
them three are in the Ribatejo region, 30
eucalyptus trees, beginning and ending with
par 5 holes. Facilities at the hotel include the
DiVine Spa, which uses natural vinotherapy
treatments, a tennis centre and a modern
equestrian centre.
An hour’s drive north of Lisbon, close to
historic Obidos, is the area’s newest course –
once again by veteran architect Donald
Steel. It opened in September 2008 as part
of the Bom Sucesso Design Resort, Leisure
& Golf, which also offers a spa hotel, hous-
ing and other leisure facilities.
The par-72 course spans what was for-
merly dense eucalyptus forest and encom-
passes valleys and ridges, but mainly con-
sists of gentle slopes. The final three holes
have already gained a reputation as being
among the most exciting in Portugal. The
par-5 17th starts at the resort’s highest point
then swings downhill and left over ridges to
a green with Obidos lagoon as its backdrop.

44 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


Lisboa Golf Coast
Bom Sucesso has been styled to replicate
the look of old, classic courses, and features
random shaping of green surrounds and
approaches to look as though they were
fashioned by hand tools. The steep-faced
bunkers also have a rough-hewn appearance.
Other courses in the region include
Aroeira’s two 18-hole layouts, the oak and
vineyard-flanked Montado with a castle
standing guard over it, Sintra’s Belas and
Golden Eagle, 60km north of Lisbon.
With so much quality and choice of golf
courses, surely it can’t be long before the
Lisbon Golf Coast is as celebrated as the
Algarve. Indeed, it could even become
Portugal’s capital attraction for golfers. TL
I Historic Sintra
Peter Ellegard
September/October 2009
Lisbon GOLF facts
Tourist information
For information on the Lisbon Golf Coast, visit the Lisbon Visitors &
Convention Bureau website at www.visitlisboa.com or the Portuguese
National Tourist Office site, www.visitportugal.com
Weather
The Lisbon area enjoys a warm, dry climate with golf playable year-round.
Temperatures on the coast range from 14°C in winter to 26°C in summer.
Getting there
Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resort
Lisbon is well-served by direct flights from the UK.
Services operate from several UK airports by
airlines including TAP Air Portugal
(www.flytap.com), British Airways
(www.ba.com), easyJet (www.easyjet.com),
Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk) and Thomsonfly
(www.thomsonfly.com).
I Penha Longa
Golf packages
Operators with Lisbon packages include Your Golf Travel (0800 043 6644,
www.yourgolftravel.com), Golfbreaks.com (0800 279 7988,
www.golfbreaks.com), Bill Goff Golf Tours (0844 414 0849,
www.billgoff.com), Driveline Golf (0870 330 1056,
www.drivelinegolf.com), Golf Amigos (0845 230 3100,
www.golfamigos.co.uk), Premier Iberian (0845 600 3391,
www.premieriberian.com) and Leisure Link Golf Holidays (01277
247520, www.leisurelinkgolf.com).
Courses
Bom Sucesso Design Resort, Leisure Quinta da Marinha Oitavos Dunes
& Golf www.oitavosdunes.com
www.bomsucesso.net/portugal-golf
Westin Camporeal Golf Resort &
Penha Longa Hotel & Golf Resort Spa
www.penhalonga.com www.westin.com/camporeal
Praia d’El Rey Golf & Beach Resort Hotel Quinta da Marinha Resort
www.praia-del-rey.com www.quintadamarinha.com
Beyond Lisbon I Estoril beach
Estoril and Cascais are considered the
“Portuguese Riviera” and offer heritage,
culture and great beaches. Sintra’s rich
historic legacy led to it being called “a
garden of the earthly paradise” by poet
Lisbon VCB
Lord Byron, and it is now a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. Other UNESCO sites
are the monasteries of Batalha and including the fine castle which is now a
Alcobaca and Tomar’s Templar Castle and Pousada hotel offering guests sweeping
Convent of Christ. Almourol Castle, built views.
on a small granite island in the middle of The region also has several nature parks,
the Tagus River near Tancos, dates from the including the Paul do Boquilobo Nature
12th century and is one of the best- Reserve, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
preserved medieval monuments in Portugal. And this is also wine country, with vineyards
Captured from the Moors in 1148, the and wine cellars along the Ribatejo Wine
town of Obidos has many attractions Route on both sides of the Tagus.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 45
46 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
 golf NEWS

Top of the crop GOLF CLIPS

Golf GPS company
SkyCaddie has added the

E
ight UK golf clubs feature among the lead- new, entry-level SG2.5Lite to
ing 20 courses in a new listing of the its range.The rechargeable,
world’s best 100 courses. compact rangefinder, a
The Top 100 Golf Courses website sibling to the top-of-
(www.top100golfcourses.co.uk) has just the-range SG5
announced its 2009 rankings. And it puts five model, costs
Scottish courses in the top 20, along with two £149.95 and
from Northern Ireland and one from England. will work on

Peter Ellegard
There is also one listed for Ireland. 95% of the
All the others in the leading 20, barring one UK’s 18-hole
I St Andrews’ Old Course… ranked the world’s 20th best course
Australian entry (Royal Melbourne, at 14), are courses. For
American. That includes the top two – Pine Valley takes place, at 20th. more
Golf Club in New Jersey and Cypress Point, on England’s sole top 20 entry is another Open information
California’s Monterey Peninsula. Both are private, venue, Royal Birkdale, at 15th. Sunningdale and and stockists, visit
so visiting golfers cannot play them. 2011 Open host Royal St George’s are further www.skycaddie.co.uk
That is also the case for several others, among down, in 24th and 27th spots respectively. Ireland’s
them the fifth-ranked Augusta National, home of Ballybunion weighs in at 10th. UK golfers are five times
the Masters. You can play on ninth-placed Pebble Unveiling its findings, the website said its rank- more likely to book a tee
Beach, a near neighbour of Cypress Point and ings “take into account every shred of ranking data time online this year
2010 US Open venue, but a round will set you published” and acknowledged that “many eye- compared to last year,
back $500 all but $5. brows will be raised as some clubs have slipped according to leading internet
The highest-ranked home course is third-placed dramatically and others have risen meteorically.” company Online Teetimes.
Royal County Down, in Northern Ireland, which “Naturally we all know that ranking golf cours- Launched two years ago, it
also has Royal Portrush in 12th. Scotland’s best es is a subjective business,” it added, “especially reported over £1.2 million
showing is by the 2009 Open host, Turnberry’s given that fewer people have played the entire in online green fee sales in
Ailsa course, in sixth place. Its other leading facil- World Top 100 ranked courses than the number of the first eight
ities are Muirfield (eighth), Royal Dornoch (16th), astronauts to have set foot on the moon.” months of
St Andrews’ Kingsbarns (18th) and the venerable Didn’t Apollo 14 astronaut Alan Shepard play 2009, with
Old Course at St Andrews, where the 2010 Open that…? August
alone

The Bear necessities

seeing
over 20,000 rounds booked
online.The company has its
own website
(www.teetimes.co.uk) and

G
olf legend Jack Nicklaus markets through partners.
visited Manchester in
September to give some The Hyatt Regency
coaching tips and life skills advice Curacao Golf Resort, Spa &
to a group of lucky youngsters. Marina opens its doors in
The 18-time Major winner, January as the Caribbean
nicknamed the Golden Bear, island’s only resort with 18
spent time with 25 young boys holes of championship golf,
and girls at Southport’s Formby featuring a 7,200-yard
Hall Golf Resort & Spa with a course designed by Pete
Getty Images

coaching clinic and Q&A ses- Dye.The resort will also

sion as part of The First Tee proj-
ect, which has launched its first
UK chapter in Manchester. It
aims to offer young people in the
area the chance to use golf to
learn valuable life skills, through
aspects such as sportsmanship
I Jack takes a whack at the coaching clinic
and the game’s honourable tradi-
tions.
Jack, whose visit was spon-
sored by RBS, said afterwards:
“The First Tee is not just about
offer a Hyatt Pure spa,
fitness centre, tennis, cycling
playing golf. It is much more. It and jogging paths, and water
is about giving back to your sports including diving.
community, helping others and www.curacao.hyatt.com
using the game and its life les-
sons to succeed in life.”

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 47

48 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
 on your DOORSTEP
Poet’s
corner
The beauty and magnificence of the Lake District has
drawn tourists since its favourite son, Wordsworth,
inspired people with his poetry about it. For
Stephanie Sparrow, it has been a life-long family affair…
W
e welcomed our cherished for half a century, of reaching
climbers as heroes. Scafell Pike, the highest peak in England.
My husband and my My father’s story is typical – it can take a
brothers stumbled lifetime of visits to thoroughly explore the
through the door, 885 square miles of Cumbria which form the
glowing with pride Lake District and to achieve everything you
that they had accompanied my then 70- want to on its lakes and mountains. The good
year-old father to fulfil an ambition he had news is that because each season emphasises
September/October 2009
LAKE DISTRICT
I Coniston Water and
the fells around
Coniston Old Man
Cumbria Tourism/Ben Barden
another aspect of its natural beauty, there is
always a reason to justify a trip there.
I particularly enjoy the Lake District in
autumn, which ushers in tints to areas such
as Grizedale Forest in South Lakeland, to
rival those of New England in the fall.
Winter leaves caps of snow on the highest
peaks until April and offers lots of excuses
for hunkering down in cosy pubs over beers
from one of 24 local breweries. Spring scat-
ters those famous daffodils across
Wordsworth’s Grasmere, dancing in the
breeze now as they did when he wrote I
Wandered Lonely as a Cloud over 200
years ago. And summer sees heavily scented
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 49
 I Spoon Hall riding centre, Coniston

Cumbria Tourism/Dave Willis

Cumbria Tourism/Dave Willis
I Wordsworth
bust in window

I Cockermouth
Cumbria Tourism/Brian Sherwen

Cumbria Tourism/Dave Willis

I Daffodils at
Lake Windermere

displays in the Edwardian gardens of “staycation” there, find sanctuary from the
Brockhole Visitor Centre, the perfect world outside.
place to take afternoon tea and look Energetic visitors have nearly 2,200
over at the yachts and pleasure miles of rights of way to walk, cycle and
cruisers on Lake Windermere. ride horses around, and 16 lakes to sail,
windsurf or kayak. Anyone
Sanctuary seeking a more restful
England’s largest national park has time can indulge
something to offer everyone. No in extensive
matter what the season of your life, retail therapy in
from childhood to retirement, this is the smart little towns
an area to fuel the imagination, with such as Ambleside and
its literary connections, pump Kendal, try some of the
adrenalin with sports like off-road- local food,
ing, or, as Gordon Brown and his such as
family found during their recent Cumberland
Cumbria Tourism/Dave Willis
sausage or sticky toffee pudding, or travel
in style with the National Trust on Coniston
Water in Gondola, a steam-powered yacht
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-gondola).
I was lucky enough to grow up with my
father’s colourful tales of the Lake District,
and frequent family trips there which gave
me a sense of the region and its layout. But I
would advise first-timers to plan an itinerary
with the golakes website and not to be over-
ambitious about the distances you can cover
in a day – either by foot or car.
Geological wonder
My father would describe the grandeur of its
mountains, and the geological wonder of a

50 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


Cumbria Tourism/Ben Barden
I Launch approaching
Brantwood Jetty on
Coniston Water
region shaped by the Ice Age. The locations
he mentioned are still lodged in my mind, as
is the childhood impression that the Lake
District – full of becks, tarns, pikes, ghylls
and crags – had its own private language.
My favourite of all my father’s tales was
of his first trip there with his mother and sis-
ter in 1944, while his own father was away in
WWII. As they arrived in Keswick my father
was smitten with the view of Derwentwater
and the scary-sounding Jaws of Borrowdale
(so called because of the shape of the gorge).
He was just 14 but it was the beginning of his
lasting love affair with the Lakes.
His first climb took place on that trip
and it was up Catbells, on the western
September/October 2009
shore of Derwent Water. This 1,480ft fell
remains popular with inexperienced walk-
ers, as it is recommended by renowned
author and walker Alfred Wainwright as “a
family fell where grandmothers and infants
can climb the heights together”.
Wainwright’s guidebooks have long been
used by many of the eight million annual
visitors to the Lakes, but now it has
become even easier to walk with
Wainwright, particularly if you have an
iPod. Newly-narrated versions of his walks
are available in podcast versions down-
loadable from the golakes site
(www.golakes.co.uk/downloads/wainwright-
audio-tours.aspx).
The great
outdoors
A gentle stroll…..
The Lakes are known as a paradise for all
walkers.They have recently been made
even more accessible by the launch of
Miles without Stiles, a list of 39 routes
across the National Park suitable for
people with limited mobility.Visitors can
choose paths from the list on the
dedicated Miles without Stiles section of
the National Park website,
www.lake-district.gov.uk
…. Or a wild adventure
Thrill-seekers will find plenty of
opportunities in the Lake District to try
scrambling through rocky streams for
example, and even paragliding around the
region. However, they are advised to
check the providers’ qualifications and to
follow safety instructions. For a list of
providers log on to the outdoor
adventure section of golakes
website,www.golakes.co.uk
Mass tourism
Alongside Wainwright, another W, the
locally-born poet laureate William
Wordsworth, is synonymous with the area.
His Guide to the Lakes, published in 1820,
sparked off mass tourism to the area.
The easiest way to get to know
Wordsworth is to start with Dove Cottage,
which is just outside Grasmere in a hamlet
called Townend. Wordsworth lived there
from 1799 to 1808 when his poetry was
most prolific. It was here that he penned
his iconic poem about daffodils.
The Wordsworth Trust
(www.wordsworth.org.uk) offers guided
tours of the cottage. A museum stands
alongside and has a permanent display about
Wordsworth and the other Romantic poets.
The trust also aims to encourage new poetry
and offers internationally-important festivals
and readings throughout the year.
Farther north is the Wordsworth House
in Cockermouth. This is a living museum
operated by the National Trust
(www.wordsworthhouse.org.uk), which
aims to show how a typical Georgian family
– William, his parents and his four siblings –
lived at the time.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 51

Did you know?
The Lake District always thinks big. It is
home to many record breakers:
G England has only five peaks over 900
metres (2,953 feet) and they are all in
the Lakes.The tallest is Scafell Pike at
977m (3,205 ft).
G England’s deepest lake can be found in
the region.Wastwater has a depth up
to 259 feet and is three miles long by
half a mile wide.
G Its longest lake is there too.
Windermere stretches across 10.5
miles from Waterhead in the north to
Lakeside in the south.
G It is home to “Britain’s Favourite View”
as voted for by ITV viewers, who
chose Wastwater in the Wasdale
Valley.
Family-friendly
Of course, there are plenty of other authors’
haunts to explore around the region, among
them social commentator John Ruskin, chil-
dren’s adventure writer Arthur Ransome and
even Postman Pat author John Cunliffe, who
spent time there. But perhaps the most fam-
ily-friendly is the Beatrix Potter connection.
Young children can explore her world
through recreations of the characters and
scenes in her 23 books at The World of
Beatrix Potter Attraction in Bowness
(www.hop-skip-jump.com).
Adults find her interesting too, and
can re-trace her footsteps in Hill Top
Farm, in Hawkshead near Ambleside,
now operated by The National Trust
(www.nationaltrust.org.uk). This is the farm
bought with the profits from Peter Rabbit,
where she wrote many of her stories including
The Tale of Tom Kitten.
Potter bequeathed Hill Top and a further
4,000 acres to the National Trust to protect
the Lake District from developers, and for
future generations to enjoy. Luckily, her
wish came true. TL
52 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
Cumbria Tourism/Ben Barden
I Borrowdale, Derwent Water and Skiddaw
Lake District facts
Getting there
Rail: The West Coast mainline (www.virgintrains.co.uk) runs to the east of
the Lake District, connecting Oxenholme, Penrith and Carlisle with London and
Glasgow. Journey times from London Euston are typically under three hours.
Buses: Popular towns and villages such as Ambleside,Windermere, Coniston
and Keswick are linked by bus, with extra services in the summer.
www.cumbria.gov.uk
By car: Typical journey time from London and the South East is about five
hours.The M6 runs to the east of the Lake District National Park.
# Tip: Even A-roads can be quite twisting, so allow extra time for your jour-
ney and for finding a space in car parks in high season.
Cumbria Tourism/Tony West
By air: The nearest airports are Manchester to the
south and Glasgow to the north. Rail links from
Manchester airport offer services to Oxenholme,
Kendal, Staveley and Windermere.
Accommodation
The Lake District has accommodation for every budget, from
youth hostels to luxury hotels. Hardy souls are attracted to camping in the
area, or even specially adapted camping barns which can be found at
www.lakelandcampingbarns.co.uk
One of the simplest ways to find accommodation is via the official tourism
website: www.golakes.co.uk/accommodation
Attractions
The most popular attraction in the area is Windermere Lake Cruises
(www.windermere-lakecruises.co.uk), which draws more than a million
passengers a year.
But if you want to get more active, join the walkers who regularly name the
Lake District as their favourite destination. Plan your route with the outdoor
adventure section of the region’s official website (www.golakes.co.uk).
First-time visitors are advised to spend time at the Lake District Visitor
Centre in Brockhole, to get a flavour of the area. Its lakeside setting (you can
travel there by ferry in the summer) and popular cafe offer views over
Windermere. www.lake-district.gov.uk
The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway is a very popular steam railway which
runs for seven miles from the Lake District National Park’s only coastal village
of Ravenglass in the Western Lake District, through hidden Miterdale to the
imposing Eskdale valley. www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk
Information centres
These are based at Bowness, Keswick and Ullswater.They can be invaluable,
particularly when looking for accommodation or getting to grips with the local
bus service.Their addresses can be found at www.lake-district.gov.uk
September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 53
 Out about
& Be a soup star
What’s on... and where

– and WIN one of 10 copies

of Soup for All Occasions

I
f you are a soup fan, you and truffle oil and more
will love the latest book hearty and warming concoc-
I Traditional cheese-making by the New Covent tions including borlotti bean,
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even several child-
friendly recipes in the
make for a perfect day great recipes for you and the
family to enjoy while explor-
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Available now from all
What could be better working winery with a ing the great outdoors. good bookshops, it is priced
than spending a day Denbies wine expert. Published by Macmillan, £15.99.
learning about cheese You will have the this stunning book is divided We have 10 copies of Soup
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Denbies wine and your own wine different occasion with ideas that will one, go to www.choicetravelinfo.com
cheese experience followed by a tasting in help you take a fresh look at soup. and click on competitions & giveaways.
takes place on Thursday, the Denbies Cellar. Delve inside the Out & About chapter Terms & conditions apply. Closing date
November 19. The day costs £85 per and you’ll find a host of delicious is October 30, 2009.
In the morning, step person and includes all recipes designed to be enjoyed on fami- For further information about the
back in time with a visit refreshments, a memento ly walks, rambles and hikes. The recipes New Covent Garden Food Co’s deli-
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Santa hops down to the farm
S
opportunity to try your anta’s Magical Kingdom is a
hand at making cheese I Blend brand new Christmas experience I Catch
your own Santa on
in the traditional way. at The Hop Farm in Paddock the hop
wine
Lunch will be served Wood, Kent. Depart on a magical train
at Denbies Wine Estate, journey full of festive surprises, make
England’s largest decorations in Santa’s workshop,
vineyard, set in 265 watch a seasonal puppet show, sing
acres of vines.Then the carols in the snow-filled square and
afternoon will be spent enjoy some mulled wine and roasted
learning about the chestnuts. from £25-£49 depending on time and
blending of wine and Santa’s Magical Kingdom is open date booked. Call 01622 870821 or go to
wine styles in the from Saturday, November 14 until www.santasmagicalkingdom.co.uk
Thursday, December 24. Tickets cost for bookings and information.

54 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 out & ABOUT

Get into the

OTHER
HALLOWEEN
EVENTS:

Halloween spirit
The Haunted Castle
Dover Castle, Kent
October 26-31
www.english-heritage.org.uk

Haunted Halloween
Boat Trip
Lady of Lee Valley moorings,
Hertfordshire
October 29, 10am-noon and
1-3pm. Booking essential, on
08456 770 600
www.leevalleypark.org.uk

Halloween Monster
Madness
Painshill Park, Surrey
October 26-31
www.painshill.co.uk

S. Morgan
Halloween Week
Basildon Park, Berkshire

W
ith Halloween approaching, one of the Saints Day), Irish townsfolk would visit neighbours
October 28-31
most popular activities for children is and ask for contributions of food for a feast in the www.visitthames.co.uk
trick-or-treating. town.
Although generally associated with America, it is Apple-bobbing, scary costumes and carving pump- Fright Night Fireworks
believed that the Irish began the tradition of trick-or- kins are also old Halloween traditions but if you don’t Beaulieu, Hampshire
treating during the ancient Celtic festival of Samhain want the hassle of arranging it yourself, there are plen- Saturday October 31
(pronounced sow-in). ty of fantastic local events that you can go to. www.beaulieu.co.uk
In preparation for All Hallow’s Eve (the eve of All Here are a few taking place around the region:

Oxford Castle Meet the Borde haunted house within Courageous children
Ghost Fest Hill Witches the enchanted garden. who survive meeting the
Oxford Borde Hill, Sussex Throughout witches can then enter
October 16-31, October 24- Halloween Week, the ghost tent and
various times. Entry November 1, 10am- intrepid explorers can become a vampire,
from £20 6pm (or dusk if take part in Borde Hill’s skeleton or witch and
England’s premier ghost earlier). Adult £7.50, Spooktacular Hunt and make a ghoulish mobile
festival is back for a 16- child £4 search for the hair- to hang at home to
day supernatural Fearless young visitors raising clues hidden by scare the family.
Oxford Castle Ghost Fest

extravaganza including
celebrity-led vigils, rising
star and popular teen
psychic Ross Bartlett,
and a one-off special
with the unlocking of
the mysterious
underground tunnels
that lie between
Oxford’s old prison and
the ancient court rooms.
With more than 15
recorded ghosts and a
very lively paranormal
history documented
to the beautiful and the witches that lead www.bordehill.co.uk
historic Borde Hill straight to their haunted
Garden will be in for a house. Once inside, only Indiana Jones
scary treat, following the the bravest will dare to Fireworks Show
I Spook it up in Oxford Pumpkin Trail and put their hand into the Legoland,Windsor
meeting the terrifying bubbling cauldron to pull October 24, 25, 30 &
attraction along with the witches who live in the out a trick or a treat. 31; November 1 & 7
nation’s leading ghost- Adult £37, child £28
hunting specialists, Fright This spectacular show
Nights, will give you an takes on an Indiana Jones
experience to theme.While at Legoland,
remember. families can enjoy over 50
For further interactive rides, shows
information or to book and attractions as well as
I Which
tickets, go to witch is a new Kingdom of the
Borde Hill

since 1071, the Oxford www.frightnights.co.uk which? Pharaohs land to explore.

Castle Unlocked visitor or call 0114 251 3232. www.legoland.co.uk

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 55


WIN two nights at the stunning
Urban Beach hotel in Bournemouth
I
f you love quality but hate formality, you
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Located just a five-minute walk from the
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The Urban Beach goes much further than
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56 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 Hit
London’s
markets
and bag
yourself
some
bargains

visitlondonimages/ britainonview
I Looking for prints at Alice’s
shop on Portobello Road

Street smart
S
treet markets are part of London’s rich
and varied history. In 1800, central
London had more than 30 public mar-
kets of different types whose heritage remains
in street names such as Poultry, Old Fish
Street, Bread Street and Milk Street.
FM Richard
markets are the fourth most visited tourist
attraction in London, attracting over 500,000
visitors each week with a turnover making
them Britain’s fourth largest retailer. Street
markets are something for Londoners to be
proud of, so from the traditional to the quirky,

London has Europe’s longest outdoor soak up the vibrant atmosphere and join in
I Oysters at street market, spanning over 1,000 yards of some bargain hunting. And tuck in to some
Pimlico Road
Walthamstow High Street. Camden’s trendy pie and mash or jellied eels as you shop!

Food Markets back to before the 11th on Lower Thames Street noon-6pm, Sat 8am-5pm Barbican
London’s wholesale century. Today, it is a in 1850. It relocated to Tube: London Bridge Originally a live cattle
trade has largely consol- successful wholesale and Poplar, near Canary A delightful mix of market, you will find
idated at Smithfield for retail market and a pop- Wharf, in 1982 and is good-value cuts of meat, meat and poultry,
meat and poultry, ular tourist site. the UK’s largest inland seasonal fish, vegetables cheese, pies and other
Billingsgate for fish, fish market, selling an and fruits and expensive delicatessen goods here.
Covent Garden, and Billingsgate Fish average of 25,000 tonnes delicacies. Also popular www.cityoflondon.gov.uk
Spitalfields and Market of fish and fish products for its surrounding /smithfield
Brentford (now Western Trafalgar Way, E14 each year. restaurants and shops.
International Market) for Tues-Sat 5-8.30am www.cityoflondon.gov.uk www.boroughmarket.org.uk Clothing &
fruit and vegetables. DLR: Poplar, Blackwall /billingsgate
Borough Market in Open to the public but Smithfield Market
fashion
Southwark is probably no children under 12. Borough Market Charterhouse Street, EC1 Haggle to your hearts
London’s oldest fruit and The first Billingsgate Borough High Street, SE1 Mon-Fri 4-10am content and bag bargains
vegetable market, dating market building opened Thurs 11am-5pm, Fri Tube: Farringdon, at one of London’s many

58 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009


clothes markets.
Petticoat Lane in Tower
Hamlets is one of the
city’s most famous
Sunday markets, estab-
lished when the
Huguenots from France
arrived in the 17th cen-
tury and began selling
petticoats and lace there.
In 1843, the lane was
renamed Middlesex
Street, to avoid reference
to ladies’ undergar-
ments.
Petticoat Lane Market
Middlesex and Goulston
Streets, E1
Sun 9am-2pm; smaller
market Mon-Fri on
Wentworth Street.
Tube: Aldgate East,
Aldgate
A bustling East End
market with over 1,000
stalls selling clothes,
bric-a-brac, electronic
items and, notably,
leather items – at the
Aldgate East end.
www.visitlondon.com
Camden Markets
Camden High Street,
NW1
Mon-Sun 10am-6pm
Tube: Camden Town
The first market here was
Camden Lock Market, in
1972. A hotspot for alter-
native fashion from cyber
and funky to vintage and
gothic, you’ll find it all in
the five connecting areas
that make up Camden’s
markets. It’s also great for
antiques, furnishings and
textiles.
www.camdenmarkets.org
Old Spitalfields
Market
Horner Square, E1
Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, Sun
10am-5pm
Tube: Liverpool Street,
Aldgate East
September/October 2009
LONDON Review
STREET MARKETS
Farmers’ markets
Head to one of London's 15 farmers’ markets –
visitlondonimages/ britainonview/ Pawel Libera
where everything is fresh and grown, reared,
raised, baked, caught or produced by farms within
100 miles of the M25. Find your local market on
www.lfm.org.uk or phone 020 7833 0338.
Blackheath
Blackheath Rail Station Car Park, SE3
I Browsing in
Spitalfields Market Sun 10am-2pm. Rail: Blackheath
Traders include: Saffrey Farm (Kent veg, some
One of the finest surviv- Tube: Notting Hill Gate organic); Green Poultry (East Anglian poultry);
ing market halls, built in Antiques stalls run for Redlays Farm (dairy produce from Ayrshire cows).
1876, vivid fashions, an half a mile, making it
international food court the world’s largest Wimbledon Park
and niche shops offer antiques market. It also Wimbledon Park First School, SW19
visitors a unique shop- offers arts and crafts, Sat 9am-1pm. Tube: Wimbledon Park
ping paradise with quirky food, bric-a-brac, clothes Traders at this popular market include: March House
one-off creations by stu- and music, as well as (Leicestershire beef and lamb); Grange Nurseries
dents from the nearby art some lovely cafes, art (Bucks nursery selling good-value cut flowers);
and design college. galleries and arcades. Greens of Glastonbury (Somerset Cheddar).
www.oldspitalfields- www.portobelloroad.co.uk
market.com Pimlico Road
Bermondsey Square Orange Square, SW1
Antiques/arts Antiques Market Sat 9am-1pm
FM Richard
Southwark, SE1 Tube: Sloane Square
& crafts Fri 4am-1pm One of London’s biggest
After some special, eye- Tube: London Bridge farmers’ markets, traders include:
catching jewellery? Then Dating to 1855, thieves 12 Green Acres (rare-breed meats); Muddy Boots
rummage through one of could famously sell their (traditionally-farmed Aberdeen Angus beef cattle);
goods here with impuni- Richard Haward (West Mersea oysters).
ty; under a royal licence,
stolen goods bought
here did not have to be
Market events
returned. Today, you can Halloween Slow Food Market
visitlondonimages/ britainonview.com/Ingrid Rasmussen
find furniture, silver, Southbank Centre
china and glassware Oct 30-31, 11am-6pm. Tube/Train: Waterloo
from Georgian to Apple-bobbing, pumpkins and sweet treats.
Edwardian times. www.southbanklondon.com
www.bermondseysquare.co.uk
Apple Day
Bayswater Road Borough Market, Southwark Street, SE1
Artists Gallery Oct 25. Tube: London Bridge
London’s thriving Bayswater Road, W2 Celebrate the Bramley’s 250th anniversary.
antiques markets. Sun 10am-6pm www.boroughmarket.org.uk
Portobello Road, running Tube: Lancaster Gate
through the heart of Over 250 artists display
Notting Hill, has been a their work every Sunday,
New farmers’ markets
market since the 1800s transforming the railings Brixton,
when gypsies came to of Kensington Gardens Brixton Station Road, SW9
buy and sell horses, but and Hyde Park into the Sun, 10am-2pm. Tube: Brixton
became famous for its world’s largest regular
antiques in the 1950s. open-air art show. Buy Devonshire Square Farmers’ Market
oil paintings, water- Devonshire Square, EC2
Portobello Road colours, acrylics, draw- First Wed of each month, 8am-3.30pm
Market, W11 ings, pastels and sculp- Tube: Liverpool Street
Sat 8am-5pm tures at studio prices.
The Travel & Leisure Magazine 59
 LONDON Review
NEWS & WHAT'S ON
Lording it on London’s streets
O
ne of London’s most
historic events – the
Lord Mayor’s Show –
takes to the streets at 11am on
Saturday, November 14 when
the 682nd Lord Mayor of
London leads the colourful pro-
cession from Mansion House.
It continues a tradition dating
back to 1215, when King John
granted a charter allowing the
citizens of London to elect their
own Lord Mayor.
In a procession extending
more than three miles, around
6,000 people from across
London will come together to
celebrate their city’s cultural her-
itage and its diverse modernity.
It travels to St Paul’s Cathedral,
where the Lord Mayor is
blessed, and on to the Royal
Courts of Justice, on the Strand,
where he takes an oath of alle-
giance to the sovereign then sets
off on the return journey to
I High speed thrills
London RIB Voyages
Ice princesses
W atch the wishes of your
favourite fairy-tale
princesses come true in Disney
On Ice presents Princess
Wishes. From Ariel wishing for
a life above the sea to Belle
yearning for adventure, the tales
of all seven princesses – Ariel,
Cinderella, Jasmine, Belle, Snow
60 The Travel & Leisure Magazine
I The Lord
Mayor’s Show is
an ancient
tradition
Mansion House, arriving at 2-
2.30pm.
More than 60 organisations
are taking part, ranging from
Battersea Dogs and Cats Home
to the British Red Cross Society.
One of the show’s aims is to
develop social and practical
skills of young people in
London, represented by four
floats from inner London com-
munity groups: Hackney-based
Licence
to thrill
T he coolest way to experi-
ence the River Thames is
on an exhilarating ride with
London RIB Voyages. Speed
through London at up to 35
knots under the capital’s
famous bridges and past
London’s landmarks. Suitable
for all the family from toddlers
to grannies, trips depart hourly
from the London Eye Pier, tak-
Disney
Tropical Isles, City of London
Academy (Southwark) second-
ary school, International Dance
and Music Centre and
Streetwise Opera.
Following the procession, the
Lord Mayor will launch a spec-
tacular fireworks display at 5pm
on the Thames between
Blackfriars Bridge and Waterloo
Bridge.
www.lordmayorshow.org
ing 12 passengers on a thrilling
50-minute adventure. They
operate every day of the year
regardless of the weather, with
passengers kitted out in wet
weather gear. Themes include
a James Bond Adventure ride
and Captain Kidd’s Canary
Wharf Voyage, priced from
£19.50 for children and
£32.50 for adults. Call 020
7928 8933 10am-6pm seven
days a week or go online at
www.londonribvoyages.com
to book.
White, Mulan and Aurora – are
told by special guest Tinker Bell
in this production guaranteed to
delight young and old.
Disney On Ice presents
Princess Wishes
Where: O2 Arena London
When: Oct 28-Nov 1, Nov 6-8
Tickets: From £16.50. Book on
www.ticketmaster.co.uk, 0844
847 2255 or www.theo2.co.uk,
0844 856 0202.
Ne w on st age
The Shawshank
Redemption
Sep 4-Feb 14
Wyndhams Theatre, Charing
Cross,WC2H 0DA
Tube: Leicester Square
An adaptation of the 1994 film
based on Stephen King’s classic
novel about Andy Dufresne
(Kevin Anderson), a banker
convicted of murdering his
wife and her lover and
sentenced to life in the
notorious Shawshank Prison.
Tickets from £10.
0844 482 5125
www.theshawshankredemption.co.uk
Endgame
Oct 2-Dec 5
Duchess Theatre, 3-5
Catherine Street,WC2B 5LA
Tube: Covent Garden
This new production of
Samuel Beckett’s darkly-
comic play by Simon
McBurney, has old, blind
Hamm (Mark Rylance) and
his servant Clov (McBurney)
trapped in daily routine and
cut off from the world.
Tickets from £20.
0844 412 4659
www.nimaxtheatres.com
POP art
Opening at Tate Modern,
Bankside on Oct 1, Pop Life:
Art in a Material World
explores the relationship
between art, commerce and
celebrity and examines how
artists have promoted their
work with their own brands.
See work by Tracey Emin,
Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons and
Andy Warhol.
Pop Life: Art in a Material
World
Oct 1-Jan 17. Open Sun-
Thurs 10am-6pm, Fri-Sat
10am-10pm. Admission
£12.50, (concessions £10.50)
www.tate.org.uk/modern/
September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 61
62 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 63
64 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
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ankersley Manor Harewood House, both members of the Treasure
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September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 65

66 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009
September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 67
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Travel and Leisure Directory
Cornwall Norfolk Channel Islands
ALDERNEY, CHANNEL ISLANDS
L’HARAS GUEST HOUSE
Newtown Road,Alderney
Channel Islands GY9 3XP
All rooms have CH, H&C water,
tea/coffee-making facilities and
colour TV; most are en suite.
Contact Mrs Jansen.
Tel/Fax: 01481 823174
lharas@internet.alderney.gg
www.lharas.internet.alderney.gg

Devon Norfolk

London

Sussex

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 69

 South Wales Canary Islands

Southern Scotland

Canary Islands

70 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 Canary Islands Florida

Cyprus

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 71

 France Italy North Cyprus

Portugal Sri Lanka

Portugal

Madeira

Portugal

72 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009

 Spain Caravan & Camping

Caravan & Camping

PRIMROSE COTTAGE CARAVAN PARK

Golden Hill, Whitstable, Kent CT5 3AR
01227 273694 campbell_brian@btconnect.com
Small, quiet site with views of the sea. Superstore, chemist and cafe close
by, coach/bus stop walking distance. Pitches for tents and touring
caravans with electric hook up points, level site. Pets welcome.Toilets,
showers, chemical disposal unit. Tourist information. Agent for Calor Gas.
PLUS! 6/7 berth static caravans for hire

September/October 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 73

 Museums Car Hire

Travel Accessories

Budget Accommodation

74 The Travel & Leisure Magazine September/October 2009