You are on page 1of 22

Product: Swedish surplus anorak (AKA snow smock, snow parka, vindblus, pull-over)

MFR stamp: Textil-Sm

Size: FV 50 (so-called XXL)
measurement length from to
width 28.5"/72 cm armpit armpit
center back 34.5"/87 cm base of hood hem
sleeve 37"/94 cm center back cuff





As you may have guesseu, I haven't actually constiucteu one of these (iathei
!"#$%&'$"!), but heie is an outline of the constiuction piocess baseu on seam oiuei
noticeu while iipping seams, filleu in with what I woulu suggest aftei my making a
wool pull-ovei fiom anothei pattein.

Fiist, seams.

Seam allowances on this pattein (the above pattein incluues seam allowances)
gieatly vaiieu but weie usually aiounu 1 cm. These shoulu piobably be aujusteu as
you go (the allowance, not the pattein size) to make each piece fit how you want.

Neaily all the seams on this weie a kinu of flat-felleu seam. This is the seam useu on
jeans, anu is stiongei than top-stitcheu but (I finu) moie putsy to sew coiiectly.
Also note that theie aie no exposeu euges on the flat-felleu seam, wheieas the euges
aie exposeu on the insiue of the gaiment with top-stitcheu seams. If I weie making
one, I woulu just use top-stitching foi all of them because I think that's goou enough
anu ceitainly easiei. At any iate, heie aie the two seams useu:

I can't think of a way to bieak up the foimation of the flat-felleu seam anu still get
the iesult they hau, so just pin oi piess in place anu make the two lines of stitching.
0i, theie aie othei kinus of flat-felleu seams that can be uone in two steps similai to
the top-stitch: sew wiong siues togethei, then folu ovei the seam allowances (which
aie on the iight siue of the gaiment) anu stitch them uown. Looking at the uiagiam,
just imagine taking the seam allowance of the top-stitch anu foluing the veiy euges
back to the iight, into the seconu stitch befoie sewing it. 0ne last note on the flat-
felleu seam is that it is suiteu to stiaight seams (think jean legs) anu is veiy iaiely
useu on cuiveu lines.

!" $%%&'()*+, -.'%/ 0112/ -+2 (123
0ui main goal is sewing up the siues anu unueiaims last, allowing us to woik with a
flat gaiment foi as long as possible (anu also making top-stitching easiei on the

At times you might neeu to impiovise on the seams, but the geneial iuea on these is
to entiiely enclose cut fabiic euges in seams whenevei possible. A lot of the seams,
such as the cuffs anu hoou flap (both effectively uouble-layei pieces), aie just a
single iunning stitch on the pieces put togethei with the euges folueu in between the
two pieces. Foi example, the seam joining sleeve to cuff woulu look like this:

If you want a hoou cinch tie, it will go between the hoou anu the hoou tiim. You may
caie to pin it theie befoie (anu while) sewing on the hoou tiim, anu then sew acioss
the tunnel anu thiough the tie at the top of the hoou. This was uone on the oiiginal
smocks, anu keeps the ties fiom migiating to one siue.

4" $55-60*+, -%%&'()&2 0112 51 (123
Befoie attaching the hoou, you'll want to figuie out the pleats. Nake them such that
the bottom length of the pleateu hoou fits peifectly aiounu the neck hole of youi
bouy, which is alieauy sewn togethei at the shoulueis. Ny smocks hau eight pleats
on the hoou, placeu about like this:

}ust keep the pleats aiounu the neck poition (between the two outei pleats above)
anu you shoulu be fine. It will make life easiei if you sew the pleats in befoie
attaching the hoou, just a single line of stitching on only the hoou piece that holus
uown nothing but the pleats. Aftei making the pleats, stitch the hoou on. The neck
hole coiiesponus to the main hoou piece; the hoou flap will extenu behinu this piece
anu even continue past the euge of the flat neck bottom. The stitching extenuing
fiom the neck hole heie is holuing the bottom of the neck flap to the fiont bouy

7" $55-60*+, -%%&'()&2 -.'% 51 (123
This shoulu be faiily stiaight-foiwaiu. The euges of the gussets shoulu line up with
the euges of the aimholes on each siue of the bouy panels.

8" $55-60*+, 69::%
}ust like pleating the hoou to fit the neck hole, you'll want to pleat youi aim enus to
match youi cuff length. Ny smocks hau five pleats of a little ovei 1 cm each. Again,
sew in the pleats befoie joining the seam.

;" <16=&5%
Beie is how oui pocket flaps will line up with the pocket bouy:

Note the oveilap, which is unique to this pocket uesign. Again, see my ieview foi
some ielateu pictuies. To make the pocket flap fiom two pieces, just hiue the euges
insiue anu sew togethei (this may iequiie some piessing anuoi pinning). We will
leave a bit of the pocket flap euge when sewing them to the pockets. This will allow
us to sew the top of the pocket flap to the anoiak without sewing oui pocket shut. A
fiont view, then a siue view:

If you aie unsuie of how the pocket pait shoulu look, just cut out one flat siue of a
biown papei gioceiy bag, cutting about an inch fiom the euge. (If you cut along the
bottom coineis now, you woulu enu up with oui pocket pattein.) The pocket will be
sewn to the anoiak thiough the inch of the flat siue that you left. You can kinu of see
this euge heie on the upsiue-uown pocket:

As fai as placement goes, the pockets on these aie about an inch fiom the bottom
(aftei hemming), but you can obviously put them wheievei you want. These
pockets aie iight on my thighs, anu some people complain about this being
annoying when they have things in theii pockets. Consiuei my next post, "What I
woulu uo uiffeiently," oi my mouification thieau.

>" ?*+-) %5&@
The final step is to sew up the siues anu unueiaims. The stitching on my smocks
stops a few inches fiom the cuff to leave a little bieathing ioom theie (which is goou
because the cuffs aie pietty tight). Then folu up anu sew the hem, anu you'ie uone!

If anything in this scatteieu account is uncleai, feel fiee to ask. Latei on I'll be
making a thiiu post on this thieau with mouifications to the pattein that I woulu
suggest, but I'm tentatively waiting on that until I uo moie woik on my own

The hood flaps are really only one hood flap (I made up the name but don't know what else to call it); there
are two pieces stitched together so that (1) the area is more stiff and (2) the edges can be nice. It's the same
with the cuffs (which get folded lengthwise), only there isn't a convenient place for a fold on the hood flap,
so it's made from two pieces.

The front edges of the main hood piece just touch in the front and don't overlap, so the hood flap holds the
buttons and blocks the wind. Of the two front sides of the main hood piece, one has buttonholes and the
other has the hood flap.

First, pictures:

Inside out,
There is a
on the tip
of the hood
flap, and a
ng button
around my
shoulder. It
holds the
hood flap in
making the
neck very

Inside out,

Inside out,
flap pulled
back. The
flap is only
sewn to the
body panel
along the
bottom of
the flap.
line on the
fabric is the
between the
layer hood
flap and the
main hood.
Also note
that the
bottom of
the hood
flap extends
past the
edge of the
neck hole,
into the
front body

out, neck
closed. The
button in
Only a
sliver of the
hood flap is
visible in
the center,
sewn to the
left side
and behind
right side.

out, hood
Here I have
down the
side of the
hood front,
the hood
flap behind.

Now diagrams:

Here is how I would imagine doing it. The process is suggested by the fact that the stitching along the top
of the hood flap does not intersect the main hood piece material, rather being just above it. Addition of the
following steps would result in the construction order (only steps regarding the hood): hood top, hood trim,
hood flap, hood pleats, hood-to-body. (The hood flap hides the edge of the hood trim; the hood trim hides
the edge of the hood top.) And I realize now that I've neglected to ever mention there is a second layer of
fabric sewn on behind the main buttonholes, on the inside of the hood - you should be able to see its lines
of stitching in the pictures.

Step 3 just shows the result of steps 1 and 2.

If you haven't cut the pieces already, I might suggest just cutting a triangle to sew to both hood ends,
making kind of a "stovepipe gusset" neck like the ECW anoraks. I'm thinking I will try to modify mine in
that way. But glad to hear someone is using the pattern. Did you make any modifications? (Pictures?) Do
say if any of the steps didn't work right and so forth.