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Service Industries Skills Council, 2005 This work is copyright, but permission is given to trainers and teachers to make

copies for use within their own training organisation or in a workplace where training is being conducted. This permission does not extend to making copies for use outside the immediate training environment for which they are made, or the making of copies for hire or resale to third parties. Modification and distribution of this document is permitted within the terms specified in the Service Skills Beauty Training Package Support Materials - electronic version: Licence conditions document. Except as permitted under the Copyright Act 1968, all other rights are reserved. Requests for permission may be directed to: Services Industries Skills Council Level 10, 171 Clarence St Sydney NSW 2001 Phone: +61 2 8243 1210 Fax: +61 2 8243 1299 www.serviceskills.com.au e-mail: info@serviceskills.com.au The views in this work do not necessarily represent the views of the Service Industries Skills Council. The Service Industries Skills Council does not give warranty nor accept any liability in relation to the content of this work. Published by: Services Industries Skills Council Level 10, 171 Clarence St Sydney NSW 2001 Phone: +61 2 8243 1210 Fax: +61 2 8243 1299 www.serviceskills.com.au e-mail: info@serviceskills.com.au Title: Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments (electronic version) ISBN: 1 74160 075 8 First published: April 2005 Printed by: SOS Printing, Sydney, Australia Print Version No: 1

Service Skills acknowledges the work of the Victoria University of Technology in the development of this resource.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Table of contents

Getting started................................................................................................................... 1 Section A Preparing for the facial treatment................................................................... 3 Section B Treating prematurely aged skin.................................................................... 23 Section C Treating red, flushed skin............................................................................. 57 Section D Treating seborrhoea and/or acne .................................................................. 65 Section E Providing aftercare advice ............................................................................ 81 Assessment...................................................................................................................... 87 Suggested answers .......................................................................................................... 89

Getting started

Getting started

Information about this learner guide


This learner guide covers the unit of competency, WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments, which is part of the WRB04 Beauty Training Package. It is a core unit for the following qualifications: WRB40104 Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy WRB50104 Diploma of Beauty Therapy

The guide has been designed to help you develop the skills and knowledge required to perform a range of advanced facial treatments, including electrical treatments and it covers the following elements of competency: 1. Confirm treatment plan 2. Prepare client and work area for facial treatment 3. Prepare treatment area 4. Treat prematurely aged skin 5. Treat red, flushed skin (Erythema) 6. Treat mature seborrhoea and/or acne 7. Advise on further treatments A variety of learning activities have been included to support you in developing the skills and knowledge you need to achieve competence in this unit. Your will be expected to demonstrate that you have acquired the skills and knowledge specified in the unit of competency. You may be asked to: answer written and/or oral questions demonstrate the practical skills you have acquired complete relevant workplace documentation

Assessment for this unit must be conducted by an assessor from a Registered Training Organisation (RTO). Refer to the Assessment section at the end of this guide for more information. Use your trainer or supervisor as an additional learning resource. If you have any problems with your learning discuss them with your trainer or supervisor at the earliest opportunity.
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Getting started

Suggested resources
The following references may provide you with additional information and ideas as you progress through this unit.

Books
Aucoin, K. (1997). Making Face. London : Prion Begoun, P. (1997). The Beauty Bible : From Acne to Wrinkles and Everything in Between Seattle. Wash : Beginning Chesky, S. (1994). Playing it Safe : Miladys Guide to Decontamination, Sterilisation, and Personal Protection. Albany, NY: Milady. Nordmann, L. (2004). Beauty Therapy : The Foundations : NVQ/SVQ Level 2. 3rd Ed. Basingstoke, Hamps : Macmillan. Rosser, Mo. (1999) Body therapy and facial work: electrical treatments for beauty therapists London: Hodder & Stoughton, 2nd edition. Spiers, K. (1998). Recipes for Natural Beauty East Roseville 7F. NSW : Simon and Schuster.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Section A Preparing for the facial treatment

What you will cover in this section


The four steps to Preparing for the facial treatment are: Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Confirming the treatment plan Preparing for the facial treatment Preparing the treatment area Identifying electrical treatments

This section deals with confirming your clients treatment plan and preparing your client and work area for application of electrical treatments for facial enhancement. Step 1 Confirming the treatment plan

Clients who come to you for a facial treatment will come with varying expectations and requirements. A facial treatment involving electrical applications includes a range of applications and sequences of treatment that are designed to improve skin health and tone. Taking the time to discuss client expectations will assist you to create a professional image where the client feels assured that you are demonstrating a genuine interest in their needs and providing sound advice to meet these needs. Detailed client consultations are an essential component of designing an appropriate treatment plan. In the unit WRBCS407A Develop a treatment plan for beauty therapy you looked at the general information you would need to find out when consulting with clients. This section of the guide covers the specific requirements for developing and implementing treatment plans for facial treatments which include electrical applications. You will need to review and confirm the treatment plans of existing clients. If the client is new to your beauty therapy workplace, you will need to develop a new treatment plan for them. Reviewing and confirming a treatment plan for an existing client and collecting initial information from a new client involves questioning the client carefully, actively listening and taking note of their responses. Encourage the client to advise you on what aspects of their skin they wish to improve. Ensure that they are not embarrassed to ask for changes in aspects of their treatment. When discussing the treatment plan with your client, you should ask questions that require a descriptive answer, rather than closed questions. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS203B Provide service to clients for additional information regarding effective questioning and listening skills to use with your clients. When you have established or confirmed your clients requirements, include this information in the development or adjustment of the treatment plan. Sometimes you may consider that a different aspect of skin care is more in need of correction than that which concerns the client. It is important not to overlook or dismiss the clients priorities, or
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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

make them unnecessarily concerned about conditions of which they were previously unaware.
Learning activity A1.1

Visit two beauty therapy providers. What is the salon policy on the storage of client treatment plans? Consider the following: Are client treatment plans kept in electronic or hard copy versions? Do electronic based treatment plans need to be printed up for each treatment? Who can access client treatment plans? What happens if a clients treatment plan is misplaced?

Discuss what you have found about the storage of treatment plans with your trainer or supervisor.
Learning activity A1.2

Refer back to the Learner guide for WRBCS407A Develop a treatment plan for beauty therapy. What information do you think you need to check for new clients and confirm for existing clients who have had a previous facial treatment/s including electrical applications? Compile a list of questions. Why is it essential to check and/or collect this information? Make some notes below. New client Existing client Why?

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Privacy and confidentiality

The information you collect from your clients may be of a sensitive nature and will require the application of privacy principles. The client must be assured of confidentiality with regard to all treatments. Any contra-indications or personal details should not be discussed outside the cubicle, unless another beauty therapists professional opinion or advice is being sought. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS407A Develop a treatment plan for beauty therapy treatments for more information on privacy principles and their application in the beauty industry. Privacy during the treatment is vital if the client is to relax and receive the full benefit. The cubicle door should remain closed during the treatment. Background music will not only help relax the client but will also aid privacy by muffling the sound of conversation. Of course the music should not be too loud and must be appropriate. Other beauty therapists should not interrupt the treatments unless it is essential to do so. To ensure that the facial treatment you provide is appropriate for your clients requirements and is performed safely, it is essential that you collect, review and confirm the following information: contra-indications medical history allergies skin analysis lifestyle.

Contra-indications

Before beginning a facial treatment where electrical applications will be used, you must identify any contra-indications and assess any implications they might have for the treatment. Contra-indications are problems or circumstances that may prevent beauty therapists from performing a treatment or service or may signal that precautions need to be taken. You may not be able to provide the planned facial treatment or you may have to adjust various aspects of the treatment such as the products and techniques used. Contraindications can change and develop between treatments so you cannot assume that because an existing client did not display specific contra-indications in the previous treatment, they will not do so in a subsequent treatment. Record any changes on the treatment plan. Professional judgement must be used at all times. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for general contra-indications which may be present when assessing your clients skin for a facial treatment. Conditions that are not recognised by the beauty therapist or which require medical treatment should not be worked on and be referred to an appropriate professional. Specific conditions
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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

contraindicated in facial treatments using electrical currents are covered later in this guide.
Medical history

Ensure you check and/or confirm your clients medical history so that any techniques or products used in the facial treatment do not exacerbate an existing condition. This is especially important for facial treatment which includes the use of electrical current. Medical conditions involving the heart as well as medical conditions such as epilepsy need to be recorded. You also need to ask your client about any conditions which affect skin sensation. You need to observe privacy legislation in your State or Territory in relation to the collection, security, use and disclosure of client medical information. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS407A Develop a treatment plan for beauty therapy treatments for more information on privacy principles and their application.
Allergies or adverse reactions

During the facial treatment, the skin may react to the products or techniques used. This is referred to as an adverse reaction. For facials with electrical current, these reactions may include the following: Erythema (red, flushed skin) arising from skin care products or application of electrical current. Skin blemishes which may emerge after treatment due to massage stimulation and application of electrical current. Allergic reactions of the skin or body to treatments or products. Adverse psychological reactions of clients who are anxious about treatments where electrical current is being used. Conditions which indicate client referral to a medical practitioner or other professional.

Check and confirm any allergies that your client may suffer from so that the cosmetic ingredients in any of the products used in the facial treatment are unlikely to trigger any reactions. If previous treatments using electrical current have been performed, check that the client did not develop any adverse reactions. Even where you have carefully checked contra-indications and allergies before commencing the treatment and, if necessary, performed a patch test, some reactions may occur which could not have been anticipated. There may be unexpected reactions over which you have no control. Occasionally a reaction will occur to a product or technique which has been used many times in the past with no problems.

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Skin analysis

Performing a skin analysis on your clients enables you to gather information about skin type and condition so you can then develop an appropriate facial treatment for each client. A thorough skin analysis must be performed for new clients and relevant information recorded on their treatment plan. Existing clients must have their skin analysed with each progressive treatment and any changes recorded on their treatment plan. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS407A Develop a treatment plan for beauty therapy treatments for more information on skin analysis techniques.
Lifestyle

Collecting information about lifestyle factors such as nutrition, exposure to stress and different types of environment will have an impact on the treatment you recommend and the treatment objectives you identify.
Adjusting the treatment plan

Having collected and/or confirmed the above information, you must record it on a new clients treatment plan and record any variations on an existing clients treatment plan so that the facial treatment can be adjusted accordingly.
Explaining the treatment plan

Once you have developed and/or confirmed and adjusted your clients treatment plan you must explain the treatment to the client. You should provide information about: sequence of the treatment products to be used expected effect of the treatment recommended number of treatments frequency of treatments price of treatment recommended homecare.

Your explanation of the treatment should be ongoing. A client may dislike a treatment or a part of it and wish to have the treatment stopped or the product removed. If the client is distressed it may be necessary to calm them before continuing. To reduce the chances of this happening it is important to always explain each procedure to the client carefully. It may even be possible to demonstrate a sensation or technique away from the facial area, for example, on the arm. This will familiarise them with the technique and reduce any anxiety.

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Sample client treatment plan

The sample client treatment plan below contains general information for a number of treatments. Treatment plans will vary between beauty salons. Sample client treatment plan
Name: Address: Occupation: Medical conditions: Tel. Work: D.O.B.: Lifestyle factors: Tel. Home:

General health: excellent good poor Skin type: normal oily dry combination Previous treatments: Body conditions: Contraindications: Comments / requests: TREATMENT

Medication:

Known allergies:

Skin condition: blemished dehydrated sensitive mature couperose prematurely aged other

Notes:

Postural conditions:

THERAPIST

DATE

PRICE

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Learning activity A1.3

Read the following information about Natasha and use it to begin developing an appropriate treatment plan for a facial electrical application. Use the above treatment plan. You will add to the treatment plan as you work through section B of this guide. At this stage record information about: contra-indications lifestyle medical information.

Natasha is thirty three years old, has two children and works part time. She has been living in Australia since she was two years old and has a fair complexion. Recently Natasha has become concerned about the condition of the skin on her face. Her skin is very dehydrated and flaky with numerous fine and deep wrinkles. She also has severe sun damage on her forehead. Natasha has never used skin care products on her face as she only believes in using soap and water. She has smoked cigarettes since she was 12 years of age and is a heavy smoker. She also suffers from epilepsy. Natasha has a classic case of prematurely aged skin.
Learning activity A1.4

Make a list of some of the adverse reactions that may occur between facial treatments where electrical current has been used. How would you respond to these variations? Possible variations Response

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Step 2

Preparing for the facial treatment

Preparation of service area

The treatment area is prepared as for a general facial treatment, with the addition of the chosen electrical equipment and appropriate products. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for information on the general preparation of the work area.
Preparation of products

Product choice will be dependent upon the range available within the salon. Product knowledge is also vital, as this will enable you to make an informed decision with regard to product action and active ingredients. Choice of product to enhance electrical facial applications will be dictated by the following: previous assessment of the skin any variations since the last treatment skin analysis if a first treatment the electrical equipment to be used products necessary for the electrical application should be conveniently placed preparation of electrical equipment.

Use of electrical equipment will be determined by: salon policy and procedures manufacturers instructions health and safety guidelines.

Self preparation

The importance of the beauty therapist creating a favourable impression by having a professional appearance was identified in the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments. A poorly presented beauty therapist will not gain the clients confidence in their skills. Clients will be naturally wary of the use of electrical equipment and the application of current. They will feel more at ease with a beauty therapist who looks professional and has a calm, competent manner. You should be well organised and be able to explain all aspects of the application and answer any of the clients questions fully and accurately. You should ensure that you are familiar with their clients treatment routine as set out in the treatment plan or select and sequence an appropriate treatment routine as identified in the client treatment plan.
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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Client preparation

Preparation of your client for the facial treatment using electrical applications should focus on your clients comfort and safety. Preparation must be undertaken according to the salons policies and procedures as well as legislative requirements for Occupational Health and Safety and Hygiene and manufacturers instructions. Jewellery must be removed, as the electrical current is attracted to metal. This includes body and facial piercings such as tongue and belly rings. Refer back to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for general guidelines on client preparation.
Learning activity A2.1

Design a checklist of key steps you would take to prepare for a facial treatment using electrical current. Work area:

Yourself:

Client:

Discuss your checklist with your trainer or supervisor to check that all preparation requirements have been included.
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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Step 3

Identifying electrical equipment

The inclusion of electrical treatments in the facial sequence has a variety of benefits. Electrical treatments enhance the effects of beauty treatments, enabling them to achieve effects not possible with manual applications - for example, the infusion of active ingredients into the dermis using galvanic current. An entire facial can be performed without manual applications if desired, for example on a young, blemished skin. Whatever the choice of equipment, it is necessary for you to have a thorough knowledge of its application and safe use. You must be aware of the danger that a lack of knowledge and expertise can create. Before using a new piece of equipment ensure that you follow the manufacturers safety instructions. The guidelines listed below provide general information and must be followed in combination with manufacturers instructions when using all electrical equipment in the salon or learning environment. A thorough knowledge of the application of the equipment to be used should include: type of current used voltage (high or low) recommended maximum current intensity selected client intensity recommended application time selected application time.

Following are images of some of the electrical equipment used for facial treatments. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for a more detailed description of how this equipment functions.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Galvanic current Neuromuscular electronic stimulator

High frequency machine

Vacuum machine

All in one machine

All in one machine close up view

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

The types of facials offered will depend on the equipment and products available in the salon. The time frame for each treatment will be defined by salon procedures and manufacturers instructions. The basic function of electrical equipment used for facial treatments includes the following. Electrical muscle stimulator (EMS) or faradic machine produces muscle contraction and tones the skin. Galvanic current improves skin condition by the infusion of active ingredients. High frequency, direct and indirect uses a high frequency alternative current to achieve relaxation and improve skin health. Brush machines. Steamer/vaporzone to warm and improve absorption of products. Vacuum suction machine. Static/pulsating vacuum a stationary method of applying vacuum suction, which encourages waste removal and lymphatic flow.

Safety points

The following general safety points need to be followed when selecting and using any type of electrical equipment. Choose well-made, sturdy equipment that can be easily cleaned and maintained. Equipment should be professionally installed and checked to prevent overloading. Avoid the use of double adaptors. If a fault develops, turn the equipment off, check plugs and fuses and call an electrician. Equipment must be regularly serviced and tested according to quality standards such as ISO. Ensure the correct placement of machines so there are no trailing leads which can cause tripping. Hot equipment should be put carefully away, with a warning notice. Follow manufacturers instructions. For example, turn equipment off after use and remove plugs from wall sockets. Thermostatically controlled equipment is safer, reducing the risk of accidents occurring, because the automatic cut-off switch reduces over heating hazards Lamps should not be left over reflective surfaces.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Check apparatus before starting (all dials should be at zero). Prepare equipment beforehand, avoiding rushing and possible accidents. Check for contra-indications to the use of the equipment. Always test temperatures and adjust to client requirements. Store machines on a sturdy safe trolley. Keep all electrical equipment away from water. Do not use electrical equipment with wet hands. Do not allow the client to come into contact with the machines unless instructed to do so.

Learning activity A3.1

Visit two beauty therapy providers and find out about the electrical equipment they use for facial treatments and the time frame for each treatment. Why have they selected this equipment? What are the benefits to clients? Equipment Treatment Benefits Time frame

Compare the equipment you have identified with a fellow student.


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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Learning activity A3.2

Choose two pieces of electrical equipment used in facial treatments that you identified in the previous learning activity. Use various sources of information to research the correct use of this equipment and safety points which you must follow. Make some notes below. Equipment 1: Description Use

Equipment 2: Description Use

Discuss any questions you may have about the pieces of equipment you have researched with your trainer or supervisor.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Step 4

Preparing the treatment area

Preparing your clients skin

Preparing your clients skin in an appropriate manner will enhance the application and effectiveness of the electrical facial treatment. The face will always be prepared for electrical facial treatments by applying cleansing and deep cleansing techniques appropriate to the skin type. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for more details on cleansing and deep cleansing techniques and products suitable for a variety of skin types. Analysing skin types and conditions Analysis of the clients skin will establish the true condition of the skin so that an appropriate electrical application can be selected. The skin type and any existing conditions will be observed and noted on the clients treatment plan. Skin types and conditions may include: normal dry oily sensitive dehydrated mature congested acne sun damaged couperose a combination of the above.

Refer to the Learner guide for unit WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for information on the features of different skin types, conditions and techniques for skin analysis. Skin cleansing After completion of the initial consultation in which all relevant details are recorded you can begin the initial cleansing sequence. Deep cleansing, exfoliation and extractions free the skin from cellular adhesions, a thickened stratum corneum and blockages, allowing greater product absorption and penetration, skin refining and rejuvenation. Clean skin increases the efficiency of the electrical equipment.

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

The cleaning product chosen should suit the clients skin type and be suitable to dissolve any make-up that is worn. The cleansing motion should be swift and efficient without over-stimulating the skin. Apply skin tonic lightly and briskly to remove any remaining cleansing lotion. All remnants of cleanser should be removed from the skin to avoid giving a false impression as to skin type during the skin analysis. The skin analysis will dictate the type and method of deep cleanse that the skin needs. The products will be chosen to suit the different conditions of the skin. Vapour zone may be applied if appropriate either during or after the deep cleanse. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for details on the use and appropriateness of vapour/ozone steaming. Any extractions may be performed upon completion of the deep cleanse and vapour zone application. At this point the blockages will be softened and the pores relaxed, allowing ease of removal. Alternatively, extractions may be performed after galvanic desincrustation (this treatment will be discussed later in this guide). Great care should be taken when working in sensitive facial areas such as the eye, ear and centre panel areas in order to avoid trauma and infection. Applications to close or tighten the pores and disinfect the area may be performed if required. These could include use of the galvanic anode to tighten the pores and harden the stratum corneum or application of direct high frequency treatments. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more details on the effects of direct high frequency treatments on the skin. Treatment products Once the method of treatment has been established, appropriate products and equipment will be chosen to complement the treatment plan. Different skin types can often be treated in a variety of ways using different products and electrical equipment. This allows for the application of a number of sequences.
Learning activity A4.1

Refer back to the case study in Learning activity A1.3 You have analysed Natashas skin as noted throughout this section. Make some notes on the following and then add some more information to Natashas treatment plan: What is the type and condition of Natashas skin? What are the features of Natashas skin? What areas of her face would require particular attention? What could be the cause of these conditions? What contra-indications exist?
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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

How would you prepare Natashas face for an electrical facial treatment?

Check with your trainer or supervisor to ensure you have described the skin accurately.

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

The massage routine

The massage routine selected should complement the clients treatment plan. Massage routines are available to suit a variety of skin types and conditions, such as the pore treatment routine that is suitable for young, blemished and seborrheic skins. The following massage movements are characterised by different rhythms, stroke intensity, pressure and timing. You need to identify a suitable massage routine or a variation of routines to reflect your treatment objectives as well as the clients requirements. Massage strokes include: effleurage pettrisage tapotement vibrations frictions.

Alternatively, pressure point massage may be used. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for an extensive description of each of these massage strokes and their appropriateness for varying skin conditions.
Treatment routine

The facial routine must be chosen to suit the clients treatment plan. All electrical equipment must be used in a sequence appropriate to the clients skin condition and type, and to suit the clients requirements. For example intensity and application time may be less than the maximum recommended because of skin sensitivity or because it is the first time the treatment has been performed. All product application should be in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. Products will be chosen with regard to their ingredients and the clients skin condition. Choice of products will also need to complement the application of the selected electrical equipment. For example, all products to be used with a galvanic treatment must be water soluble to allow their passage to the dermis. Repeated practice will enable the beauty therapist to combine products and equipment in a successful routine, which will provide the client with maximum treatment benefit. The routine selected and reasons for using each piece of electrical equipment should be clearly explained to the client and questions encouraged.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Learning activity A4.2

Refer back to the case study in Learning activity A1.3. Describe the massage routine you would recommend for Natasha and why. Record this information on Natashas client treatment plan.

Discuss the massage routine you have selected for Natasha with your trainer or supervisor.

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Section A
Preparing for the facial treatment

Notes:

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section B
Treating prematurely aged skin

Section B Treating prematurely aged skin

What you will cover in this section


The three steps to Treating prematurely aged skin are: Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Identifying prematurely aged skin Applying a massage routine to ageing skin Identifying electrical applications for prematurely aged skin

This section deals with how to identify prematurely aged skin and its causes with the aim of treating this skin type by using a variety of appropriate electrical applications including galvanic therapy and high frequency treatment. Step 1 Identifying prematurely aged skin

Prematurely aged skin is present when the biological age of the client and the age of their skin do not correlate. This means that the client looks older than they actually are. When this occurs it is important to establish any underlying cause in an attempt to decrease the effects of the ageing factor if possible. Often the client may realise in hindsight that their skin is damaged. Only a slight improvement can be gained, but efforts can be made to slow the process down. This can be achieved with regular treatments and dedicated homecare. Prematurely aged skin is affected by decreased cell renewal where fewer new cells are replacing old ones. When dead skin cells are not shed rapidly, skin looks dry, dull and wrinkled. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS409A Apply knowledge of skin science to beauty therapy treatments for more information about the process of skin mitosis. Skin ages prematurely as a result of a variety of factors, which may include the following: Sun damage or solar elastoses breakdown of collagen and elastin due to excessive ultra-violet exposure. Medication some drugs may cause ageing in appearance. Prolonged stress can show on the skin. Lifestyle alcohol, smoking etc can cause loss of skin elasticity. Heredity the rate at which we age is inherited to some extent. Illness if severe can effect the skin. Climate harsh environments can dry and wrinkle the skin. Diet poor nutritional value. Dehydration a temporary condition which can be improved.
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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section B
Treating prematurely aged skin

Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS409A Apply knowledge of skin science to beauty therapy treatments for detailed information about the function of collagen and elastin in promoting healthy skin and theories such as Free Radical theory and Photoageing associated with premature ageing.
Learning activity B1.1

Research some of the characteristics of a prematurely ageing skin and make a list of these below.

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section B
Treating prematurely aged skin

Step 2

Applying a massage routine to ageing skin

In identifying and applying an appropriate massage routine, it is essential to select a routine that will benefit prematurely ageing skin. The massage routine will include the shoulder girdle, dcolletage, neck and face. Massage prior to using electrical applications such as electrical muscle stimulation (EMS) helps to warm and relax the facial muscles to produce better contractions and also to increase blood flow, breaking down the skins resistance to the current. Massage movements should be designed to: relax muscles and reduce tension warm the tissues, aiding relaxation increase circulation to skin cells increase cell metabolism, increasing cell production improve skin health and colour improve skin tone and elasticity encourage improved tone desquamate, uncovering fresh cells.

Massage movements which lift muscles, soothe and smooth lines and wrinkles and generate a feeling of well being should be identified and applied. Regular massage will help to keep skin supple. When massaging, it is important to avoid placing pressure on the trachea at the front of the neck as this will be uncomfortable for the client. The massage routine most suited to an ageing or prematurely ageing skin is covered in the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments. This massage should concentrate on facial areas where there has been a visible loss of muscle tone such as the: upper arms neck chin naso-labial lines eyes forehead.

When performing massage movements care should be taken to suit the rhythm, repetition and pressure of each movement to the: elasticity of the skin skin condition
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Section B
Treating prematurely aged skin

degree of subcutaneous fat treatment product clients relaxation needs.

For example, in applying a massage movement: There should not be too much movement around the eye area as the skin in this area is thin and should not be stretched. Pressure should be adjusted according to the amount of underlying fatty tissue, pressure being firmer on the pectorals, reduced on the forehead and avoided on the trachea.

Learning activity B2.1

Refer back to the case study in Learning activity A1.3 What massage routine would you use on Natashas skin? Provide an explanation including the following: Which massage movements would you use on Natashas skin and why? How long would the massage last? What pressure and rhythm would be used with each movement and why?

Discuss your choice of massage routine and the reasons you have chosen this routine with your trainer or supervisor. Return to Natashas treatment plan and add information about the massage routine you have selected for Natashas skin.

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Section B
Treating prematurely aged skin

Step 3

Identifying electrical applications for prematurely aged skin

It is possible to apply a range of electrical applications to the neck and facial areas to improve skin tone and firm muscles in prematurely ageing skin. Applications which are suitable for the characteristics and needs of prematurely ageing skin include: electrical muscle stimulation (EMS) or low frequency current micro-currents.

Both methods require the client to undertake a course of treatments in order to achieve lasting results. They differ in the type of current used and the technique of application.
Electrical muscle stimulation (EMS)

This treatment is also known as faradic (after the original type of current used for stimulation) and also by a number of trade names. EMS is a passive and gentle form of exercise for the skin. The muscles are made to contract by an electrical current being passed along them. The current is accepted by the body and has no harmful effect if the treatment is being carried out correctly. Passive exercise means that a muscle, or set of muscles, can be moved (shortened) without the conscious effort of the client. The application of this electrical treatment on the face tightens up sagging muscles, giving a younger appearance and improved skin tone which is especially suitable for prematurely ageing skin. The equipment uses a direct current with a low voltage and low intensity. The direct current is interrupted or fluctuated to produce a series of pulses. These pulses are emitted at a speed of 120 hertz or 120 cycles per second. This speed produces shallow penetration of the pulses into the superficial muscles of the face. The pulses cause the muscles to contract through nerve stimulation. These contractions have the following effects: Shortening of muscles, improving tone. Contraction of muscles, creating pressure on blood and lymph vessels and improving flow. Increasing blood supply, thereby improving cellular metabolism. Increasing lymph flow thereby increasing toxin removal. Improvement in facial contours. Improvement in skin texture, tone and colour.

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Application As direct current has polarity there are two electrodes required to complete the circuit. One has a negative and one has a positive charge. The negative electrode is called the cathode. The positive electrode is called the anode. In order for the current to flow, both electrodes must be in contact with the clients body. At the point of contact the current flows into the skin and is drawn to the opposite electrode. This occurs because the opposite charges are attracted or drawn to each other, whilst like charges repel like. The current is in the form of ions or charged particles. The positive ions produced at the positive poles are repelled from it and drawn to the negative pole, whilst the opposite occurs at the negative pole. As the current flows through the tissues it stimulates the nerve endings in the muscles, causing them to contract. As the current is flowing the muscles contract; when it stops they relax. The length of contraction and relaxation can be adjusted by the beauty therapist to suit the muscle strength. The electrodes are made of a substance called graphite, which is carbon-impregnated rubber. Graphite can conduct electricity. The reverse side of the electrode is non-conductive. To encourage the current to flow into the skin its resistance must be lowered. Firstly the skin must be clean and free from oil. Secondly a solution is applied to the skin to aid current flow. This is called an electrolyte. An electrolyte is a solution containing charged particles or ions. The ions are able to conduct the current through the solution. The human body contains ions or electrolytes and also has a high water content. This is the reason why the body can conduct electricity easily. Once the current has passed from the electrode it flows through the skin with the aid of the ions in the electrolyte, through the body via the ions in cells and to the opposite electrode. This completes the circuit of electrical flow. As both the negative and positive electrode produce ions that travel through the body, a complete circuit is formed. Muscular contraction is produced along the route of the current. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information about direct current treatment in relation to beauty therapy treatment including the electrolytic process.

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Motor points Every nerve and muscle possesses a small area where it is most easily stimulated and a visible contraction can be produced with the minimal amount of stimulation. This is called a motor point. A motor point is an area on a muscle where there is a great density of nerve fibers near the surface. This area is usually found on the belly of the muscle. The belly is the fleshiest, most prominent part of the muscle. When applied to the motor points the current will produce contractions which closely resemble natural facial exercises. Initially the sensory nerve is stimulated then when the current is sufficient and the electrode is placed accurately over a motor point, muscle contraction will occur. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information on muscle stimulating treatments and the Learner guide for WRBCS408A Apply knowledge of anatomy and physiology to beauty therapy treatments for information on the motor points of the face. The EMS or faradic unit Modern units incorporate various controls on their panels. These include the following: Mains switch - for turning machine on and off. This is often combined with a timer. Individual intensity dials - for each electrode outlet, allows current control for individual sets of pads. Frequency dial - enables the beauty therapist to select the number of pulses per second emitted from the machine to stimulate the motor points. The dial is numbered from 60 120. 60 the slower pulses penetrate deeply and are suitable for deep muscles 90 average depth 120 superficial penetration, ideal for facial muscles.

Pulse width - changes the actual width of each pulse emitted, the length of time it stays in the muscle. The higher the setting of this dial the greater the effect on the muscle. For facial muscles a lower setting is usually used, for example, 90. Master output control - can increase the percentage intensity to all the electrodes in use without turning them up individually. Pulse sequence (phasic control). Mono phasic and bi-phasic settings. Mono phasic emits pulses flowing in one direction only. Bi-phasic emits pulses flowing in both directions back and forth (- > +)(+ > -). Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information on phasic selection.
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Stimulation and relaxation Most machines will allow the beauty therapist to vary the stimulation period and interval. The stimulation period control should be set just long enough to give a good contraction, and the interval control to allow the muscle to just fully relax. Any longer is a waste of treatment time. Muscle stimulation treatments do not remain static in dosage for each client as the requirements change constantly. The fitter a muscle becomes, the less strength it requires. The electrodes For facial treatments there are three types of electrodes available for use. Facial block electrode (dual head) This is the most popular type manufactured and houses the anode and cathode in its insulator holder. They vary in form and in use, for example, some have an inbuilt intensity control to adapt the current easily. The distance between the anode and the cathode may be fixed or can be altered if the electrode has a stylus. They are ideal for stimulating a number of motor points that are situated closely together on the face. Application Plug in equipment while the machine is turned off, and dials are at zero. The beauty therapist will select timing, contraction and relaxation settings, frequency and pulse width mode. Prepare electrodes with damp coverings. If necessary give inactive electrode to client to hold or strap to shoulder. Place dampened facial electrode firmly in position over motor point, or strap the facial mask around the clients face.

Mushroom electrode (disc electrode) A metal disc in the electrode must be covered in several layers of lint to protect the client. The indifferent electrode is protected with a foam pouch and is placed in contact with the clients body either laying it under the shoulder or, as with some machines, by using a wrist clip. The mushroom head is placed on the motor point of the muscle, acting as the active electrode, and completes the electrical circuit. Application Apply the mushroom electrode to the motor point. Turn the machine on and adjust intensity slowly during the contraction time, checking with client for sensation feedback. Each muscle should be contracted eight to ten times. The equipment is then turned down before moving on to the next area. Repeat sequence two or three times.
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Mask electrode This houses a variety of electrodes inside to stimulate all the muscles of the face at the same time. This should not be used on claustrophobic clients. Application Mask electrode intensity will gradually be increased during the contraction period. Treatment should begin at eight minutes, increasing to fifteen minutes during the course of treatments. Upon completion, turn the electrodes down during the contraction period and off. Remove electrodes. Continue with further treatments. Wash and wipe electrode covers and wipe electrodes with a cloth dampened in warm water and detergent. Dry and store the clean equipment. Tidy treatment area.

Muscle contraction

Poor contraction of muscles may be due to the following: The presence of large quantities of adipose tissue, which can act as a barrier to the current. Any oil left on skin. The intensity selected is too low. The electrodes are too dry (they may need re-damping during the treatment). Muscle fatigue. Faulty connections on the machine or leads. The leads need regular checking and maintenance. The electrodes are not firmly in contact with skin. Incorrect positioning of the electrodes. It is important to switch the intensity dial to zero before removing the electrode. The pulse frequency and width are not set correctly.

Frequency of treatments

In order to achieve results it is recommended that a course of treatments be undertaken. The client will need at least twelve treatments, beginning with three a week for two weeks, and then two a week for three weeks. Twice monthly maintenance treatment is recommended.
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Learning activity B3.1

Use the information in this step and other sources of information to make some notes on the following. What is the purpose of facial treatment using electrical muscle stimulation (EMS)?

Discuss your response with your trainer or supervisor to ensure your information is accurate.

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Label the main facial motor points. Why are motor points important in relation to this application?

Describe how the EMS application would help Natasha? (Refer back to the case study in Learning activity A1.3

Discuss the appropriateness of this treatment with your trainer or supervisor.

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Micro-current neuromuscular stimulation

This treatment is also referred to as the non-surgical facelift and is also suitable for prematurely aged skin. The objective of the treatment is to improve facial contours, rejuvenate the skin and reduce wrinkles. The equipment for this treatment uses a galvanic type current, which is pulsed to produce a low frequency. The treatment is painless and pleasant and can be used safely on the face and body. It has a similar effect on the body as its own biological impulses and can therefore stimulate regeneration of skin and muscle tissue through the stimulation of muscle fibres causing a weak contraction. Effects of the treatment Speeds up cellular activity and regeneration. Improves toxin removal. Increases lymph flow. Improves skin tone and texture. Smoothes deep lines and wrinkles. Tightens slackened muscle fibres. Improves collagen production.

Contra-indications Pacemakers the current may interfere with the functioning of these. Epilepsy the current may trigger an episode. Heart conditions. Infected acne electrodes moved over the face can result in cross infection. Skin diseases. Scar tissue. Metal plates, pins, excessive fillings. Sunburn. Pregnancy.

Application The treatment is applied to a clean, warm skin, after the application of a specialised gel or cream. The treatment has several different programs, all of which are applied. The programs are designed to either lift the muscles or stimulate the lymphatic system. The
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beauty therapist works with two probes covered with dampened cotton wool. Application follows a set pattern, slowly working over the entire face and neck area.
Method

Prepare the equipment. Timing The average treatment time will be 45 minutes, although some applications may take up to one hour. Frequency Although there is an immediate improvement it is important that the client undertakes a course of treatments in order to gain maximum benefit. It is recommended that two treatments per week for ten weeks be undertaken. Fortnightly maintenance is recommended after this.
Learning activity B3.2

What is the purpose of facial treatment using micro current neuromuscular stimulation?

How would this treatment help a client with prematurely aged skin?

Discuss the benefits of this treatment for clients with prematurely ageing skin with your trainer or supervisor.

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Galvanic therapy

Galvanic therapy uses galvanic current to infuse active ingredients deep into the lower epidermis (iontophoresis) or as a method of deep cleansing (desincrustation). Desincrustation is suitable for skin affected by seborrhoea or acne and will be covered in the next section. The iontophoresis technique achieves the deep penetration of products which is not possible with manual application, and is appropriate for treating prematurely aged skin as it deeply hydrates and nourishes the skin. Galvanic current The current used in galvanic therapy is a direct current with a low voltage. The low intensity is measured in milliamps or thousandths of an ampere. The treatment uses two electrodes: one which is held by the beauty therapist and applied to the skin (the active electrode), and one which is either held by the client or strapped to their arm (the inactive electrode). The two electrodes have opposite charges - the cathode and the anode. The treatment uses the principle that opposites attract and like repels like. The current flows from one electrode to the other beneath the surface of the skin. So, the negative is drawn towards the positive and vice versa. Normally the skin acts as a barrier through which substances cannot pass. However, the attraction of these opposite charges makes it possible. The charges are made of ions or charged particles. The ions can be negative or positive and it is the ions that flow into the skin. Iontophoresis uses these charged particles to carry active ingredients deep into the skin and is a method of introducing beneficial ingredients into the skin. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS412A Apply knowledge of cosmetic chemistry to beauty therapy treatments for information on percutaneous absorption when electrical currents are applied to the skin. For example if the substance to be infused into the skin contains negative ions, apply the negative electrode (cathode) over the product on the skins surface. If the substance to be infused contains positive ions, apply the positive electrode (anode) over it. In this way the natural resistance of the skin that prevents products entering the dermis is overcome. Key terms used in galvanic therapy Ions Atoms that have an extra electron or are short of an electron are called ions. They are negative or positive respectively. Cations Positive ions they move towards the anode. Anions Negative ions- they move towards the cathode
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Electrolyte A solution in which ions are conducted from one electrode to another. For example, saline solution. Electrodes The conductors used for making contact with the electrolyte are called electrodes. Cathode The negative electrode. Anode The positive electrode. Active electrode Is the term given to the electrode in contact with the clients face during the facial treatment. Inactive or indifferent electrode The electrode held by the client to complete the circuit. Anaphoresis The flow of anions to the anode. Cataphoresis The flow of cations to the cathode. The two electrodes also produce chemical reactions and a series of other effects. The electrodes are also used for their chemical reaction in desincrustation. The opposite effects of the electrodes are shown below.

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Effects of the anode and cathode Anode (positive electrode) - Produces acid reaction - Soothes nerves - Decreases blood supply - Hardens tissues - Restores acid mantle - Tightens pores - Warms tissues Cathode (negative electrode) - Produces alkaline reaction - Stimulates nerves - Increases blood supply - Softens tissues - Breaks down acid mantle - Relaxes pores - Hyperaemia - Warms tissues - Enables saponification - Drying effect on skin - Moisture is temporarily drawn to cathode

Contra-indications to iontophoresis The contra-indications to iontophoresis are as follows: Loss of skin sensation, which may lead to over treatment. Recent scar tissue - thickened skin that will require a high intensity and be sore. Infectious skin diseases and disorders, which may be spread as the electrode moves over the face. Heart conditions current flowing through body may be detrimental. Pacemakers current interferes with impulses. Low blood pressure electrodes increase or decrease superficial circulation. Epilepsy a seizure may be triggered. Diabetes lack of skin sensation. Migraine sufferers headaches can be triggered.
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Cuts and abrasions moisture draws current. Highly vascular conditions can be irritated. Metal plates, pins, bridges or an excessive amount of fillings draws the current to them. Pregnancy any form of electrical treatment is inadvisable during pregnancy.

Polarity of products The products must be repelled into the skin with the same electrode as their charge. That is, a positive gel or serum would need the anode to force it into the skin as like charges repel each other, while the cathode (attached to the client) would attract the product. The cathode or negative electrode is the most penetrating. If a serum or gel contains positive and negative charges, the cathode would be used for half the application time, followed by the anode. The intensity would be reduced to zero before changing the polarity. The polarity of the products will be clearly marked. If not consult the manufacturer. If a product requires the negative electrode, the positive should be used for one or two minutes to harden and seal the skin at the end of the treatment. Products to be infused into the skin will either be in a serum, gel or ampoule form. See the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information on the process of iontophoresis. Products in sealed glass containers should only be opened when needed. They contain sufficient quantity for one application to the face and neck. Left over products should not be returned to containers once they have been opened to avoid cross infection. Skin irritation If an irritation is evident whilst infusing the product into the skin, it is possible to reduce the sensation by reversing the polarity. If irritation occurs after the application has been completed, reduction of the sensation by polarity reversal will not assist as the substance has already been dispersed by the blood stream. Timing guide Iontophoresis should be carried out between five to seven minutes, or in accordance with manufacturers instructions. If you are applying this treatment to just one area, such as the centre panel, you will require two minutes.

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Intensity The galvanic current should never exceed 2 milliamps. Most treatments are performed at an intensity of 0.2 0.6 mA, 0.3 being the average. Precautions Check for contra-indications. Perform a patch test to check for skin sensation. Remove jewellery of both client and beauty therapist. Keep skin moist during treatment. Do not exceed set time limits. Always check with client to ensure comfort and minimum sensation. Reduce current over bony areas. Always reduce intensity to zero before removing electrode. Keep electrode moving over the skin. Cover open areas such as pustules with petroleum jelly to prevent attraction of current.

The galvanic unit The unit is made up of the following parts: A mains control switch. An intensity control dial. An mA meter registering electrode output (or skins resistance). A polarity control switch. Outlets for the negative and positive electrodes (some electrodes are coupled and there is only one outlet). Two electrodes or one coupled electrode.

Generally the active electrode is black and the inactive electrode is red, although variations sometimes occur. Application of iontophoresis Skin should be clean and oil-free and ideally moist (for example, after vapour zone or cleansing). Active electrode should be covered in a thick damp gauze or if a roller applied over a thick layer of gel or a dampened gauze.

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Inactive electrode should be covered in dampened viscose cover and either: firmly held by client put behind clients shoulder firmly strapped to clients upper arm.

Product charge should be checked (either negative or positive) and the active electrode put into same socket on machine. Product application time should be checked in manufacturers guide. Product is applied to the skin: gel is applied thickly serum is applied immediately before treatment. Keep remaining serum in bowl and drip it onto the skin with a pipette during treatment.

More than one type of serum may be applied to suit different conditions on different parts of the skin. If the treatment is performed at the end of the facial, moisturiser should be applied. Explanation of the treatment Ongoing explanation to your client using appropriate communication techniques throughout the electrical application is essential. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS203B Provide service to clients for information on effective communication techniques to use with your clients. Let clients know that they may taste metal in their mouth. This is not a problem and they should not be concerned. The taste is a result of the galvanic action. If it is excessive, reduce the current intensity. Also point out to clients that to obtain maximum benefit from the treatment, the skin should ideally be left untouched for eight hours after iontophoresis. Points to note when performing galvanic iontophoresis and desincrustation. Always wipe off desincrustation lotion. Work very slowly allowing the electrical charge to penetrate. Fast movements will not carry the active ingredients into the skin. To test that the unit is working, touch the two electrodes together and turn up the intensity. The intensity should then register at the meter. The reading on the meter is also an indicator of the skins resistance. The electrode should not be lifted from the skin whilst the current is flowing as this may cause a muscle spasm.

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Galvanic burns Galvanic burn is a mixture of a chemical and an overheating reaction caused by an inappropriate or careless use of the galvanic current. The burn may appear red at first and will later turn grey and weep. If the burn is deep enough to reach the bone it is called a galvanic bone burn. Both of these burns usually appear under the cathode. Bone burns would be more likely during body therapy than facial work. The causes of galvanic burns include the following: uneven application and movement of electrodes over treatment inadequate cover on active electrode applying the electrode in one position for too long holding electrode on its side electrode or skin drying out.

To ensure burns do not occur the following precautions should be taken: Ensure the active electrode is well covered with damp cotton wool and gauze. Ensure the inactive electrode is well covered with no wrinkles and strapped or held firmly in place. Hold the electrode flat on the skin. Do not use too high an intensity. Do not work for too long. Do not allow the skin to dry out beneath the electrode. If necessary, drip water onto the skin with a pipette if there is no product remaining.

Method Check your client for contra-indications and explain the treatment to the client. Check the machine intensity dial is at zero. Check the active and inactive electrodes are on correct charge (active same as product). Apply the product. Place the active electrode on cheek and turn on the machine. Gradually turn on intensity while maintaining electrode contact and gently circling.

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Stop intensity increase when the client can feel a slight warmth or tingling sensation or the intensity reaches 2 milliamps (maximum). For training purposes most schools work with an intensity of 0.2 - 0.3 mA. Slowly cover the entire face according to recommended treatment time (product manufacturer) or timing guide. Upon completion of the treatment, turn the intensity down, turn the machine off and then remove the electrodes. Remove inactive electrode from client. Wipe off excess gel or leave the serum on the skin. Wipe electrodes with a cloth dampened in warm water and detergent, rinse and dry after each client use. Wipe over machine. Inactive electrode covers and straps should be washed in warm soapy water and soaked in a suitable sanitising solution.

Learning activity B3.3

Make some notes on how galvanic therapy works.

Describe how iontophoresis could improve the skin of a client with prematurely ageing skin.

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Explain the following terms to a fellow student. Ions

Cations

Cathode

Electrode

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Anode

Cataphoresis

What contra-indications would you look for in a client prior to iontophoresis treatment? What would you need to consider about the way in which you communicate with a client about any contra-indications?

Discuss galvanic therapy and its appropriateness for prematurely ageing skin with your trainer or supervisor.

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High frequency treatment

High frequency treatment can be applied to a prematurely aged or mature skin using an indirect or a direct method of application. The objective of the treatments is to hydrate and nourish the skin and relax the client. High frequency current This is an alternating current with a very high frequency in the range of 100,000 Hz plus (Hz = cycles per second). The current does not stimulate muscles. The current has a high voltage but a very low intensity that cannot harm the client. The intensity is in milliamperes. The treatment can be applied in a direct manner or an indirect manner. Direct high frequency is applied directly to the skin using a glass electrode. Indirect high frequency is incorporated into the massage routine. It is sometimes referred to as a Viennese massage.

Either method can be used to treat prematurely aged skin. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more detailed information on high frequency treatments and equipment. The high frequency unit The unit is made up of the following parts: A mains control switch. An intensity control dial. A handpiece in which the electrodes are fitted and which is attached to the unit by a flex.

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The electrodes vary in shape to suit different parts of the face, body and desired effect. The diagrams below show high frequency electrodes.

Facial electrode

Neck electrode

Rake electrode

Intensified sparking electrode The electrodes contain a gas that becomes ionised during the application. The electrodes give off a coloured glow that varies according to the gas within, as described below. Argon gas glows blue or violet. Neon gas glows pink or orange.

The gas is sealed within the electrode by a metal cap that fits firmly into the handpiece. The electrode used for indirect high frequency massage may be of metal or glass. It is referred to as the saturator. Contra-indications of high frequency treatments Epilepsy it may trigger a seizure. Asthma the ozone can precipitate an attack. Extreme vascular conditions due to increased warmth and stimulation.
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Cuts or abrasions the moisture in these draws the current. Skin diseases, disorders, and infections which may be spread by the electrode moving across the face and neck. Sensitive skin may become excessively stimulated. Metal plates and pins in the head draw current. Diabetes when the client suffers a loss of skin sensation. Sinusitis current can cause discomfort. Heart conditions can be affected. Migraine sufferers can be affected. Pregnancy any form of electrical treatment is inadvisable during pregnancy. Indirect high frequency would be contra-indicated on an oily skin as it encourages sebaceous activity.

Direct high frequency

This is applied directly to the clients skin via a glass electrode. The current is dispersed around the contact area on the skin. Effects of the treatment Localised warmth. Stimulation of circulation. Anti-bacterial and germicidal benefits due to ozone production. Increased cellular metabolism. Improves the moisture balance of the skin. Calms sensory nerve endings. Desquamating.

This treatment can be used on a dry skin such as that which characterises prematurely ageing skin, to stimulate oil secretions. When it is used for this effect it is usually applied over a cream. The effect of the ozone production and the localised warmth liquefies the application of cream. The skin is encouraged to absorb moisture and nutrients and is stimulated. Method The method for applying direct frequency is listed below. Position eye pads after consulting with the client.
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Plug in equipment, ensure machine is off, dials at zero. Electrodes clean and ready to use, chosen electrode fitted into handpiece. Oxygenating cream applied to the skin. Equipment and noise explained to client. Electrode placed on clients forehead and slowly circled whilst machine is turned on and the intensity is increased slowly. Intensity is adjusted to suit clients tolerance level and adjusted in sensitive areas, for example, reduced on forehead. Glide electrode slowly over the skin, keeping contact and covering all areas evenly. Timing should be for three to four minutes. Upon completion turn intensity down and off and remove electrode. Remove eye pads. The massage cream is removed, or more commonly, is then used for the massage. The electrode should be washed in warm soapy water, taking care not to dampen the metal fitting then dried and stored. The handpiece should be wiped with a disinfecting agent.

Indirect high frequency or Viennese massage

This method of applying high frequency involves a circuit of electricity between the electrode, client and beauty therapist. The client holds the handpiece and saturator, whilst the beauty therapist performs massage of the shoulders, neck and face. The current is drawn to the beauty therapists massaging hands and fingers. Superficial movements will produce a stimulating effect, as the current will flow just beneath the skins surface. Deeper movements will produce a more relaxing effect as the current is contained more deeply within the skin. Care must be taken during the treatment not to break contact with the client, as the current will jump from the client towards the beauty therapists hands. This startles both the client and the beauty therapist. Similarly if the beauty therapist touches the metal couch legs or trolley during the treatment the current will jump from them to the metal. Effects of the treatment relaxes the client soothes nerve endings creates warmth
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increases circulation increases cellular metabolism due to circulation increase improves the skin texture and encourages desquamation encourages product absorption due to warmth increases elimination of waste product due to increase in skin temperature.

This treatment is suited to the following conditions: dry dehydrated skin sluggish circulation tired skin with fine lines tense muscles indirect high frequency massage can be used on the face and body.

Massage medium Talc is suitable for a light stimulating massage, but is not to be used on dry, dehydrated skin. Cream nourishes and hydrates and provides a relaxing massage.

Method Plug in equipment, machine off, dials at zero. Fit clean saturator electrode into hand piece, ready for use Apply talc to the clients hand that will hold the saturator to absorb perspiration. Ensure that the client holds handpiece and saturator comfortably. Apply suitable massage medium to treatment area. Place hand on the shoulder area and begin to massage while switching the machine on and turning the intensity dial up. Gradually increase intensity to suit client tolerance. Place second hand on the client and commence the massage. Reduce intensity on the nose and forehead. Continue for ten to twenty minutes depending on skin reaction Upon completion of the massage remove one hand, turn down the intensity dial, and turn the machine off. Take the saturator and handpiece from the client and place safely.
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Remove massage cream from the skin unless the mask is to be applied over the cream. In this case the cream must still be removed from the shoulder and neck area. Clean and appropriately sanitise the electrode, wipe equipment and put it away.

Precautions Client should hold saturator under rug where it cannot fall if released during treatment. The beauty therapists fingers should feel warm, but the intensity should not be too high. Belt buckles etc. will attract the current from the saturator. Rings should not be worn on the hand holding the saturator. Care should be taken not to touch any metal surface of the equipment when turning down the intensity.

It is important not to startle the client with an electric shock, as they will be apprehensive about having the treatment again.
Vacuum applications

Vacuum applications may be suitable for prematurely ageing skins. Wrinkle cups can be slid along wrinkles or lines. Suction or lift into the ventouse should be more than 10%. Suction is adjusted according to the skins natural elasticity. The suction is broken at the end of each stroke by slipping a finger beneath the ventouse or removing the finger from the sealant aperture. Some machines also have an outlet for blowing air out of the unit. This can be attached via a nozzle to a bottle that will emit a fine spray. These can be used for a variety of preparations such as rose water for refreshing the clients skin. Vacuum applications can benefit prematurely ageing skin by helping to release wrinkles from their underlying adhesions so that they become shallower, and by improving general skin texture. Contra-indications Delicate sensitive areas of fine skin texture as they may be stretched. Capillary damage as it can be worsened. Crepey, loose skin as it will draw up into the ventouse or cup. Infected skin infections which could be spread via the ventouse. Thin skins, for example, diabetic skins could be damaged. Bruising as it could be sore. Cuts and abrasions as further damage could occur.
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Recent scar tissue as the gliding of the ventouse could make it painful. Sunburn or windburn as this can cause discomfort. Glandular swelling as it can be painful.

The vacuum unit A vacuum unit is comprised of: an electrically driven vacuum pump a mains control switch a gauge (which registers the amount of negative or reduced pressure produced) a control dial for increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure required to treat the different tissues of the face and body accessory items to the unit are plastic tubing and an assortment of different sized ventouses or cups.

Pneumo-patter vacuum

This type of equipment is more suited to crepey, loose skin and sensitive skins. The reduced pressure is intermittently broken, allowing easier gliding and less stimulation. This is generally carried out with two suction cups, both hands working at the same time, in a corresponding pattern. Completion of the electrical treatment Upon completion of the treatment all equipment should be wiped and the clean attachments replaced and stored hygienically according to health and hygiene legislation and workplace policies and procedures. The following information should be recorded on the client treatment plan: intensity and duration of the electrical application treatment solution used reaction of skin, if any client feedback.

Application of the mask

The mask application should complement the preceding treatment. The mask may be applied on top of the massage medium, a more suitable oil, the treatment serum or ampoule, or on clean skin.
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The choice of mask will be determined by the skin condition present at this point of the facial. It may be that the mask stated in the treatment plan is inappropriate, or, if the skin has reacted in any way it may be necessary to select an alternative. More than one type of mask can be used to provide maximum benefit. Separate masks can be applied to the following areas: eyes neck dcollet face.

Types of masks and their suitability for specific skin types are described in the Learner guide for WRBFS406B: Provide facial treatments and fall into the following categories: setting non-setting phytotherapy specialised.

The most appropriate masks are usually the non-setting, phytotherapy or specialised classification types. Setting masks dry tightly on the skin causing dehydration that will not benefit a prematurely ageing skin. Application should be neat, quick and thorough, paying special attention to the dcollet if sun damaged.
Skin tonic and moisturiser

The tonic chosen should aid tissue firming and be non-drying. The moisturiser should hydrate rather than feed, as the skin will have received several nourishing treatments. Eye cream or gel should be applied. Make-up should not be applied at the conclusion, as this will interfere with the continuing action of the facial.

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Treating prematurely aged skin

Learning activity C3.4

Visit two beauty therapy providers in your local area. Find out how each workplace applies health and hygiene legislation and their own workplace procedures to clean electrical equipment and electrodes. Make some notes below. In your investigations consider the following: What is the difference between disinfecting, sanitising and sterilising? In what situations and for what purposes must each of these methods be applied?

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.

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Treating prematurely aged skin

Learning activity C3.5

Refer back to the case study about Natasha in Learning activity A1.3. Use the information in sections A and B to design an appropriate sequence of facial treatment using an electrical facial application. Identify any contra-indications and how these will affect the treatment. Give reasons for the sequence of treatment you have designed. Record the treatment sequence on Natashas client treatment plan in Section A.

Sequence of treatment

Reasons

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide for a suggested sequence of treatment for Natasha.

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Treating prematurely aged skin

Learning activity C3.6

Develop a safety checklist for the electrical equipment you would use for Natashas treatment. Include any key precautions which you need to take.

Discuss your checklist with your trainer or supervisor to ensure it is accurate and appropriate.

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Section C
Treating red, flushed skin

Section C Treating red, flushed skin

What you will cover in this section


The three steps to Treating red, flushed skin are: Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Identifying red, flushed skin (erythema) Selecting massage routines for sensitive skin Treating red, flushed skin

This section deals with how to identify red, flushed skin and its causes with the aim of treating this skin type by using a variety of appropriate facial electrical applications including galvanic therapy and low intensity laser. Step 1 Identifying red, flushed skin (erythema)

Red, flushed skin (erythema) is characterised by telangiectasia or dilated and broken capillaries. With erythema, the skin temperature will be elevated. The dilated capillaries are a result of vaso-dilation. This occurs when the blood capillaries expand to allow greater quantities of blood to flow through them. This helps to eliminate heat from the body and can be caused by the use of irritant or strong products. When capillaries have to constantly dilate they begin to weaken which causes them to expand and eventually break. Diathermy, laser and sclerotherapy can treat broken capillaries. Ideally, dilated capillaries will be encouraged to repair themselves as once broken they are not easy to remove. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS305A Apply knowledge of skin biology to beauty treatments for more information on thermoregulation. All applications to the skin will be designed to desensitise and decongest it, reduce redness and strengthen capillaries. Careful cleansing with no excess pressure or skin movement should not heighten the skins colour. The soothing and gentle palmar effleurage on the cheek area will encourage initial draining of the congested capillaries. Correct product choice will begin to soothe the area and hydrate it, creating an immediate improvement. This section covers a number of electrical treatments suitable for treating a flushed skin or erythema. Alternatives to the treatment order and application of electrical treatments can be found in the suggested answers section at the end of this guide. Erythema may be caused by any or a combination of the following: use of incorrect products inadequate moisturising
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Treating red, flushed skin

inherited sensitivity delicate, fine skin allergic reaction capillary damage due to incorrect product use over exposure to ultraviolet light.

Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS305A Apply knowledge of skin biology to beauty treatments for more information on the effects of UV exposure on the skin
Learning activity C1.1

Read the case study below and answer the following questions. Sean is a twenty nine year old whose previous employment experience includes ten years as a bricklayer working in the northern part of Australia. Sean has not used skin care products before. Sean has a classic case of red, flushed skin. Make a list of the features you would expect to observe on Seans skin

Which parts of the face are specifically affected?

In Seans case, what would be the cause of his skin condition?

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.


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Section C
Treating red, flushed skin

Step 2

Identifying massage routines for sensitive skin

Petrissage and tapotement massage movements are not suitable for areas of the face affected by flushing as they create erythema and may well worsen the condition. Instead, roll patting and soothing, gentle static movements will settle nerve endings, calm the areas and create a feeling of well being for the client. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for a detailed description of these massage movements. All movements should be performed slowly and with reduced pressure. As with all massage no pressure should be applied on the trachea. The timing for the massage routine is dependent upon the skin reaction. If required, the greater part of the massage may be spent working on the neck, shoulders and dcollet to avoid over stimulation of sensitive areas on the face.
Massage medium

Ideally a light massage oil which will not drag the skin should be applied. This must not contain mineral oil, as it has a heating action which can overstimulate the skin, nor should it require warming between the beauty therapists hands to achieve a working consistency. The application of electrical treatments to a skin with erythema is only suitable if skin sensitivity is not too severe.
Learning activity C2.1

Ask a fellow student to play the role of Sean. Select a massage routine and perform it on Sean. In selecting and planning your routine consider the following: What movements would you use on Seans skin and why? What pressure and rhythm would be used with each movement? How long would the massage last?

Discuss the suitability of your routine with your trainer or supervisor.


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Section C
Treating red, flushed skin

Step 3

Treating red, flushed skin

Iontophoresis for a red, flushed skin

Iontophoresis is the most suitable direct current treatment for treating red, flushed skin. The products chosen will be designed to vaso-constrict, anti-inflame, encourage strengthening of capillary walls and reduce redness. These products will be in gel or ampoule form and are infused deep into the skin by the actions of galvanic current (see the previous section).
Learning activity C3.1

How would iontophoresis benefit Seans skin condition? Make some notes below.

What steps would you follow to perform this treatment?

Consider the length of treatment, frequency and intensity. Give your reasons.

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What precautions would you need to take with Seans treatment?

Discuss your responses with your trainer or supervisor.


Application of mask

The application of the mask should complement the preceding treatment and further reduce skin sensitivity associated with red, flushed skin. The mask may be applied on top of: the massage cream the iontophoresis ampoule a treatment ampoule clean skin.

It may be necessary to select a different mask to that stated in the treatment plan in order to provide maximum benefit. The type of mask selected should benefit congested or flushed skin. Types of masks and their suitability for different skin types are described in the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments. Setting masks A calamine mask will greatly reduce erythema as it soothes the skin, reduces vascularity and cleanses. Non-setting/phytotherapy Ingredients should be selected to calm and soothe, for example, rose, horse chestnut and chamomile. Specialised masks Any type of thermal mask will be contra-indicated for treating red, flushed skin because it will irritate the existing skin condition by generating heat. Anti-congestive and cooling applications should be applied from 10-20 minutes or according to manufacturers instructions to gain maximum vaso-constriction. If applying
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more than one type of mask, the flushed area should be covered before the rest of the face, neck and dcollet. Removal of the mask should be before it has dried or become hard as this will produce less stimulation. Tepid to cool water should be used.
Skin tonic and moisturiser

A mild skin tonic or floral water should be chosen. Moisturiser for sensitive skin should be applied to the face and neck, and an eye gel to the eye contour.
Learning activity C3.2

Use the information in this section to design an appropriate sequence of treatment for Sean. In your planning:

Make a list of questions you would need to ask Sean. Descibe how each part of the treatment sequence would benefit Sean. Record this information on Seans treatment plan below. Identify the length of the treatment and give your reason for your choice. Reason Length of treatment

Treatment sequence

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide for suggested treatment sequences.

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Treating red, flushed skin

Sample client treatment plan


Name: Address: Occupation: Medical conditions: Tel. Work: D.O.B.: Lifestyle factors: Tel. Home:

General health: excellent good poor Skin type: normal oily dry combination Previous treatments: Body conditions: Contraindications: Comments / requests: TREATMENT

Medication:

Known allergies:

Skin condition: blemished dehydrated sensitive mature couperose prematurely aged other

Notes:

Postural conditions:

THERAPIST

DATE

PRICE

Discuss Seans treatment plan with your supervisor or trainer.

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Notes:

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Section D
Treating seborrhoea and/or acne

Section D Treating seborrhoea and/or acne

What you will cover in this section


The two steps to Treating seborrhoea and/or acne are: Step 1 Step 2 Identifying seborrhoea and/or acne skin Treating seborrhoea and/or acne

This section covers the treatment of seborrhoea and/or acne using a variety of treatment methods. Step 1 Identifying seborrhoea and/or acne skin

A seborrheic skin is characterised by an excessive production of sebum. This over activity is influenced by the production of male hormones or androgens as well as excessive shedding of dead skin cells and a build up of bacteria in the pores. A seborrheic skin has the following characteristics: enlarged pores shiny sallow appearance due to non-shedding of skin cells thickened, dull looking likely to develop comedones.

Seborrheic skins can develop into acne which is characterised by: comedones papules pustules cysts and nodules (severe acne).

Pustules develop from comedones. A plug of keratinised cells forms, preventing the free flow of sebum from the follicle or gland onto the skins surface. More excess keratinised cells form, the sebaceous gland begins to leak sebum into the surrounding tissues and a papule develops. If the papule becomes infected a pustule may form. If the quantity of comedones being formed can be controlled, this will reduce the amount of pustules which form. This means that deep cleansing the skin is very important for the skins condition.

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Seborrhoea is a condition that reduces with age, although original characteristics, such as open pores, will still be present.
Acne

The most common type of acne is acne vulgaris. It affects adolescents between the ages of fourteen and twenty, but can flare up in older people. Acne rosacea usually affects people over the age of thirty five. Its characteristics are as follows: Oily and shiny skin, especially nose, cheeks and forehead. Flushing of the nose, cheeks and forehead and occasionally the chin. Papules, but very few pustules unless very severe. No comedones. In men, rhinophyma gross enlargement of the sebaceous glands of the nose (strawberry nose).

Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS409A Apply knowledge of skin science to beauty therapy treatments for a detailed explanation of seborrhoea and the different types of acne and its causes. Considerations for treatment plans are considered below. A seborrheic skin will require treatments to reduce the oil level. A mature skin that has had acne will require treatment for scarring and pigmentation. An acned skin will require careful very deep cleansing and healing.

To improve these conditions you will need to select and apply suitable applications. Examples of treatment options are discussed at the end of this section.
Learning activity D1.1

Read the case study below and answer the following questions. You should also use other sources of information to find out more about acne. Dean is twenty two years old. He works full time in an office environment. He has suffered from severe acne since the age of 15 years. Dean has tried many acne products that he has purchased from the local chemist or supermarket, none of which seem to have helped his condition.

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You have analysed Deans skin and have noted he is suffering from acne vulgaris. Describe the features you would expect to observe on Deans skin. On which part of Deans face would you expect the acne to be more severe? What could be the cause of this condition?

Discuss your analysis of Deans condition with your trainer or supervisor.

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Step 2

Treating seborrhoea and/or acne

Medical treatment

The more severe cases of acne must receive medical treatment. However, less severe cases may be treated by a beauty therapist.
Deep cleansing the skin

Deep cleansing is an essential part of treating skin affected by seborrhoea or acne as it helps to prepare the skin for the unclogging of pores and removes dead skin cells that have not been shed. It is important not to treat this type of skin with harsh products which strip the oil, as this will only stimulate the sebaceous glands to over-compensate and produce more sebum. Instead, the pH level in the skin needs to be balanced by the active ingredients in the products and the electrical equipment chosen. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS412A Apply knowledge of cosmetic chemistry to beauty therapy treatments for a detailed explanation of pH and buffering where products used are pH balanced so that they do not upset the pH balance of your clients skin.
Enzyme peels

These products contain vegetable and fruit enzymes such as bromelin (pineapple) and papain (papaya). The enzymes dissolve the dead skin cells and remove them from the skin. This product works best when warmed so it is usually applied beneath the vapour zone. The vapour zone should be used on the ozone setting for its antibacterial and germicidal action on the skin. If the skin permits, the peel can also be worked with a brush cleanser. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments to revisit information about brush and vapour/ ozone deep cleansing methods. On an acned skin the peel must be gently removed with damp cotton wool pads and warm water to prevent breakage of pustules, the possibility of infection and discomfort for the client. If extractions are to be performed this can be done: after steaming after desincrustation.

It should be remembered than any open areas, for example, extracted pustules, may attract the current during desincrustation so extractions prior to electrical applications are not recommended. Extractions should be performed after desincrustation so that the saponification would make an extraction more successful. This can then be treated with High Frequency, reducing the likelihood of cross or self contamination.
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Treating red, flushed skin

Learning activity D2.1

Use your knowledge of exfoliation products to identify which would be suitable for seborrheic/acne skin. Give reasons for your choice. Exfoliation product Reason

Discuss the products you have identified and their appropriateness with your trainer or supervisor.
Desincrustation

Desincrustation is a direct current treatment which uses a galvanic current to saponify sebum and soften blockages. This is a method of deep-cleansing the skin using galvanic current and is suitable for treating seborrhoea and acne.
Galvanic current

The current used is a direct current with a low voltage. The intensity is in milliamperes. Desincrustation uses the chemical reaction that is created at the cathode or negative electrode to help achieve its result. Its application is similar to that of iontophoresis, but its result occurs on the surface of the skin rather than in the dermis.
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Desincrustation always uses the cathode or negative electrode as the active electrode. The action at the cathode creates the treatment. Refer back to the table in Section B which lists the effects of the cathode. The action at the cathode When applied to the skin an alkaline substance is produced beneath the cathode. The alkaline substance is sodium hydroxide (also known as caustic soda or lye). When we combine the sodium hydroxide and the fatty acids of sebum on the skin, a soap is produced on the skin. This is referred to as saponification. This means that the blockages of sebum in the follicles are softened. The action of the cathode: Stimulates nerves as the cathode irritates the nerve endings. Increases blood supply as cellular activity increases. Softens tissue as the stratum corneum softens and desquamation occurs. Breaks down the acid mantle where the covering of fatty acids on the skins surface is dissolved. Relaxes pores where blockages in the pores (sebum) are loosened further as the pores relax. This allows for easy extractions, which do not leave behind an enlarged follicle mouth or open pore which can become infected. Enables saponification where sebum turns into soap. Has a drying effect on the skin as the acid mantle is broken down which dries the skin.

Moisture is temporarily drawn to the cathode. The area is rehydrated. The action at the anode The action at the anode is the opposite of that at the cathode. As this is the inactive electrode during desincrustation, its action is not important at this point. However, it is used at the end of the treatment to restore the acid mantle and harden the skin. Contra-indications These are the same as for iontophoresis (refer to Section B), however, dry skin must also be included as a contra-indication to desincrustation. Polarity of products As the action of the electrode creates the effect it is not necessary to apply a product other than an electrolyte solution to moisten the skin and provide ions. It is permissible to use tap water rather than an electrolyte as tap water contains minerals. However, it is normal to apply a desincrustation lotion, which is often electrolyte based. The polarity of the lotion will always be negative. The product may be detergent based, thus increasing the saponification effect on the surface of the skins surface. Refer to the

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Treating red, flushed skin

Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information on the electrolytic process. Timing guide Desincrustation should be undertaken for five to seven minutes and always in accordance with manufacturers instructions. If working on just one area, such as the centre panel it would require approximately two minutes. The positive anode must be applied at the end of the treatment to neutralise the effects of the cathode. It should be applied for half the time of the negative application. Intensity The galvanic current should never exceed two mA. Most treatments are performed at an intensity of 0.2 0.6 mA, 0.3 being average. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS410A Apply knowledge of electricity to beauty therapy treatments for more information on how electric current is measured. Precautions Check contra-indications with the client. Do not apply desincrustation to overly vascular skins as it warms tissues. Perform a patch test to check for skin sensitivity. Ask client to remove all jewellery; the beauty therapist must also remove their jewellery to avoid interference with the current. Keep skin moist during treatment. Do not overheat skin. Always check with client to ensure comfort and minimum sensation. Reduce current over bony areas as it could result in galvanic burns. Always reduce intensity to zero before removing electrode. Keep electrode moving. Cover open areas, such as pustules, with petroleum jelly to prevent attraction of current.

The galvanic unit Refer to Section B in this guide for safety information on using the galvanic unit. Galvanic burns Refer to Section B in this guide for information on how galvanic burns can occur.

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Application of desincrustation Desincrustation should always be applied to a clean and moist skin. Therefore after vapour zone is ideal. This reduces the skins resistance and requires a lower intensity to pass through the stratum corneum. The application of desincrustation on a seborrhoeic acned skin can be over the entire face or wherever oily, blocked skin is present. As with iontophoresis the following applies to the application of desincrustation. Cover the active electrode in a thick damp gauze or if a roller is used, apply over a thick layer of gel or a dampened gauze. Cover the inactive electrode in dampened viscose cover. It must be either: held firmly by the client put behind the shoulder strapped firmly to the upper arm.

Check product application time. Apply product to skin: Apply gel thickly. Apply serum immediately before commencement of treatment. Keep remaining serum in a bowl using a pipette to drip onto skin during treatment

Apply dry eye pads.

Method Check the client for contra-indications and explain treatment. Check machine intensity dial at zero. Check active and inactive electrodes are on correct charge (inactive attached to client). Active electrode must be negative in desincrustation. Apply product Place active electrode on cheek and turn on machine. Gradually turn up intensity while maintaining electrode contact with the skin and gently circling. Stop intensity increase when client can feel a slight warmth or tingling sensation or the intensity reaches two milliamperes (maximum). Slowly and methodically cover the entire area taking the required treatment time (refer to the manufacturers instructions, operators manual or timing guide). Upon completion of treatment, turn intensity down, machine off and then remove the electrode.
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Remove inactive electrode from client. Wipe off desincrustation lotion. Continue with treatment. Sanitise electrodes. Wipe over machine. Inactive electrode covers and straps should be washed in warm soapy water and soaked in a suitable sanitising solution.

As the negative electrode (cathode) has been used it is recommended to neutralise the effects by the use of the positive electrode (anode). Upon completion of desincrustation using the cathode, the anode should be applied for approximately half the time to neutralise the effect. This can be done immediately after the desincrustation application or at the completion of the facial. The latter allows for extractions first. The action at the anode: Produces acid reaction. The substance is hydrochloric acid and this will reverse the drying action of the sodium hydroxide. Soothes nerves. Nerves will have been irritated during the application of the cathode. Decreases the blood supply. This will reduce redness. This is especially important after extractions have been performed. Hardens tissue. This seals the skin after it has been softened, which is necessary after extractions. Restores the acid mantle which reduces the drying effect. Over drying the skin stimulates the production of more sebum. Tightens pores. The pores have been opened to allow for easy extractions; tightening them will reduce pore size after blockages have been removed.

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Treating red, flushed skin

Vacuum applications Once desincrustation has been applied to the skin the ideal treatment to follow it is vacuum suction. As the blockages and stratum corneum have both been softened, further deep cleansing of the pores and surface desquamation occurs when a vacuum application is applied. It also removes any remaining saponified sebum. Treatment is applied after cleansing, steaming, desincrustation or whenever the skin is considered to be ready for removal of blockages. The treatment achieves removal of blockages, plus deep cleansing which is not possible with manual methods. Vacuum and desincrustation treatments are often combined to remove comedones without damage to the skin. To facilitate the gliding action of the cup a fine oil is applied to the skin. The oil helps to form a seal on the skins surface with the ventouse. A comedone extractor is a type of facial ventouse which is attached to the vacuum unit. These have a small, round opening which is used over the site of comedones, exerting even pressure on the surrounding tissues to help remove sebum deposits and loosen and extract comedones. The comedone extractor ventouse will draw comedones upwards, allowing for easier manual extraction. Comedone cups can be used with a high suction as the opening is very small. These cups may be applied repeatedly, taking care not to exert pressure, which can cause bruising. Comedone extractors must be sterilised after use as they may have penetrated the clients skin. Sterilisation must be carried out according to the health and hygiene regulations and the skin penetration act in your State or Territory. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS408A Apply knowledge of anatomy and physiology to beauty therapy treatments for information about blood borne diseases. Also refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS409A Apply knowledge of skin science to beauty therapy treatments for information on the transmission of contagious skin diseases.

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Treating red, flushed skin

Diagrams of facial ventouses.

General facial Comedone extractor

Wrinkle ventouse

Alternative application An alternative method of applying vacuum suction is while using the vapour zone on the face. The water mist moistens the face, allowing the ventouse to glide. The application of oil is not necessary in this instance. If required the beauty therapist can dampen their hands in a bowl of water and apply additional moisture to the area with palmar stroking movements. Precautions Always check suction. Check ventouses are free of cracks before using. Take care on looser skin areas as these areas will lift more easily. Do not release suction by pulling off the skin. Take care of erythema whilst working. Place a small plug of dry cotton wool inside the ventouse to prevent cellular matter being drawn up into the tubing.

Upon completion of the vacuum suction you may wish to perform manual extractions. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for a description of the extraction technique.

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Iontophoresis The galvanic current can be used to infuse active ingredients into the dermis after desincrustation, to reduce sebaceous activity and pore size. The most suitable ingredients will be those that are water based and have an astringent action on the skin, for example citric acid. Refer back to Section B for information on iontophoresis. The gel or ampoule will be applied to: the entire face to neutralise the cathode appropriate areas to reduce sebaceous activity and reduce the size of enlarged pores soothe and calm if acne rosacea is present.

If an ampoule has been used most will have been absorbed into the skin, and as iontophoresis products need not be removed it can be left there. A gel will tend to leave a sticky residue which must be sponged away. Massage Massage for this skin type will be designed to release blockages. The pore treatment massage is appropriate. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments for a description of this massage technique and its benefits. These movements are primarily frictions and pincements. The routine lasts for approximately seven or eight minutes. Massage medium The massage can be applied with no massage medium as the routine does not require slip. Alternatively it can be applied during re-application or initial application of vapour zone. This combination opens the pores and removes blockages. Upon completion of the massage the treatment can continue immediately as the skin is clean.
High frequency treatment

Direct high frequency treatment can be applied to seborrhoea and acne to achieve the following effects: Anti-bacterial and germicidal action to kill bacteria. Warming to increase blood supply. Drying to heal and dry out pustules. Desquamating to encourage skin shedding on scar tissue.

The application of direct high frequency to an oily skin will differ slightly to that of a dry skin.
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To aid gliding of the electrode over the skin the following can be applied: talcum powder gauze.

The talcum powder allows the electrode to glide easily, the powder absorbing sebaceous secretions. The electrode should be applied methodically to the entire face. Areas of pustules, papules and scarring can be encouraged to dry and heal more rapidly if the electrode is used for sparking. Sparking is applied in the following manner: The electrode is lifted and replaced repeatedly on the skins surface (about six to eight times for each area). The electrode is raised about seven millimetres from the skins surface. This causes the current to jump from the electrode to the clients skin. This produces a spark that converts the oxygen (O2) into ozone (O3).

Sparking intensifies the effects of the high frequency, and will cause drying and peeling of the area over the next few days. To spark, the electrode can either be turned on its side or a smaller electrode can be used. This helps concentrate the current. Ideally this treatment will be performed at the end of the facial which allows the action of the ozone to continue for as long as possible. Ensure all safety checks and precaution are applied before performing the treatment and that any contra-indications are identified. Perform the treatment using the correct method and application. Refer back to sections A and B of this guide for information on correct application. Micro currents Micro currents may be applied to the seborrheic client to tone the skin and firm and strengthen muscles. The method and application will be the same as for treating prematurely ageing skin as described in Section B of this guide. Application of the mask The application of the mask should complement the preceding treatment and aid pH balance. The mask is applied to clean skin. It may be necessary to adjust the choice of mask stated in the treatment plan as a result of the skins response. More than one type of mask can be applied to suit the different conditions that exist. Types of masks and their suitability for different skin conditions are described further in the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments.

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If applying more than one type of mask the area requiring the most correction should be covered first. The mask should be removed with disposable wipes if the skin is pustular. Direct high frequency can be applied at this point in the facial. The skin should be left free of further applications afterwards.
Learning activity D2.2

Refer to the Learner guide for WRBFS406B Provide facial treatments. Select a suitable mask to use on skin affected by seborrhoea or acne. identify the type of mask list the ingredients explain how this mask would benefit this skin condition.

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.

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Skin tonic and moisturiser

The vacuum suction equipment can be used to spray tone the face and neck if required. The light spray mist will tone and refresh the area. A lotion can be used which has a moderately toning action to close pores. It should contain no alcohol. If required a stronger toner can be used on the centre panel or blemished areas. An ampoule to reduce sebaceous secretions may be applied beneath the moisturiser. A light day moisturiser for oily skin can be applied. This will be an oil in water emulsion that will not feed but hydrate the skin. It may be necessary to leave the centre panel or blemished areas free of product. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS412A Apply knowledge of cosmetic chemistry to beauty therapy treatments for more detailed information on types of emulsions.
Learning activity D2.3

Refer to the case study in Learning activity D1.1. Use the information in this section to design a sequence of treatment for Deans skin. Give a detailed explanation of each part of the treatment and why you have selected it. Also include information about your treatment objective at each stage. Discuss and compare your sequence of treatment with another student. Make some notes below.

Discuss the appropriateness of your sequence of treatment with your trainer or supervisor. What improvements can you make?

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Notes:

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Section E
Providing aftercare advice

Section E Providing aftercare advice

What you will cover in this section


The two steps to Providing aftercare advice are: Step 1 Step 2 Seeking client feedback Providing advice on further treatments

This section covers the importance of seeking client feedback and how to effectively advise the client of further treatment options. Step 1 Seeking client feedback

An important part of providing aftercare service is to seek client feedback. Once the facial treatment has been completed, you need to discuss the results of the treatment with the client so you can evaluate its effectiveness and make any necessary adjustments to subsequent treatments. Encourage the client to be forthright in their feedback and to ask questions and seek further clarification about aspects of their treatment which they may be uncertain about or would like to change. Be aware of the clients body language as this may be sending a different message to what the client is saying to you. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS203B Provide service to clients for details on communication strategies and body language. Note any adverse effects which occurred during the facial treatment, explain them to the client where appropriate and record them on the clients treatment plan. The information you collect during this discussion with the client should be used to inform recommendations for further treatments and any changes that need to be made to the treatment plan.
Learning activity E1.1

Compile a list of questions you can ask your client to assist you to evaluate their facial treatment.

Discuss the purpose of each question and the information it will enable you to gather with your trainer or supervisor.

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Section E
Providing after care advice

Record of treatments

At the completion of every treatment a record of all applications must be added to the client treatment plan. This will include the following. Details of electrical equipment used: duration of application intensity polarity product used.

General products: cleanser toner moisturiser mask.

Appearance of the skin at conclusion of treatment: client feedback to treatment any immediate adverse effects recommended changes for next treatment products purchased, samples given.

This information will enable you to prepare for the next treatment and adjust the treatment plan if necessary. It also provides you with guidance for consecutive treatments which may require an increase in treatment duration and intensity. If it is the first treatment of a course it may be necessary to make some notes of the existing condition to enable a comparison after the final treatment. If a course of treatment is being undertaken an accurate record of the number of treatments is important to ensure that the beauty therapist is aware at what stage the treatment is currently at. Accurate records assist other beauty therapists who may be treating the same client.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section E
Providing aftercare advice

Step 2

Providing advice on further treatments

In order to achieve maximum benefit from treatments, it is important that the client supports salon visits with appropriate homecare. Explain to the client that it is important that they follow the recommended aftercare advice as this will reinforce and enhance the facial applications performed in the salon. This information should be communicated in way that does not make the client feel obligated to undertake a rigorous regime at home. This may discourage them from coming back for more treatment. If the client cannot visit the salon regularly, sound aftercare advice is especially important. Aftercare may include advice on: suitable products lifestyle changes future treatments.

Products

These will include products relating to the facial treatment performed and other recommendations which the beauty therapist might make, such as sun care products, hypoallergenic products and make-up. It is common practice to show the client other products that may enhance their treatment. Let them smell and feel them and provide them with samples. If providing the client with samples, ensure the client knows what each product does and how to apply it. It is usually not good practice to supply more than two or three samples, as the client may get confused about their application. Samples given should be recorded on the client's treatment plan and follow-up questions asked at the next visit. Some treatments require the use of specific homecare products. For example, some glycolic acid peels need skin preparation with a low strength peel before salon applications. The skin preparation is important to ensure there is no skin trauma after the salon application. In this instance, the treatment cannot be performed if the client has not completed adequate preparation. Manufacturers instructions must be carefully followed and if the client is unsure of the application they must feel confident in contacting the salon for advice. Always demonstrate product application to the client to ensure correct usage and to avoid over treatment of the skin.

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Section E
Providing after care advice

Products a client may wish to purchase may include: cleansers toners moisturisers facial masks remedial products sunscreens.

The client should be advised of possible reactions which can occur as a result of product use.
Lifestyle changes

Lifestyle factors play a key role in triggering and exacerbating some skin conditions. Adjusting these factors can contribute to the maintenance of healthy skin. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS411A Apply knowledge of nutrition to beauty therapy treatments for information on health and nutrition guidelines. Recommendations can focus on: dietary advice stress management exercise water intake caffeine and nicotine reduction adequate rest and relaxation fresh air.

Offering your clients advice about the above personal lifestyle factors needs to be done with sensitivity and tact. Refer to the Learner guide for WRBCS203B Provide service to clients for strategies on how to deal with sensitive information.
Regularity and frequency

Most treatments require regularity to keep skin conditions under control. The frequency of the treatments depends upon the condition and the clients willingness to attend as well as their budgets. Often frequent treatments will be necessary to achieve improvement.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Section E
Providing aftercare advice

Learning activity E2.1

What aftercare products and advice specific to their skin condition would you provide to Natasha, Sean and Dean? Give reasons for the products you suggest. Make some notes below. Suggested homecare products Natasha Aftercare advice

Sean

Dean

Refer to the Suggested answers section at the end of this guide.

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Section E
Providing after care advice

Treatment outcomes

The client should be advised as to the expected outcome of future treatments. This should be done without giving a false impression as to the effectiveness of their action. Where a course of treatments is required to achieve an improvement, the client should be informed of this before their first treatment. If they do not wish to commit to this they then have the opportunity to choose an alternative.
Rebooking the client

The client should always be offered the opportunity to rebook before they leave the salon. If undertaking a course of treatments these can all be booked in advance, ensuring the client can attend as regularly as is required to achieve results. This will ensure that convenient times are booked for them. It also allows you to plan in advance with regard to products and other materials.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Assessment

Assessment

For valid and reliable assessment of this unit, competency should be consistently demonstrated over a period of time and observed by an assessor from a Registered Training Organisation and/or a technical expert working in partnership with the assessor. You may be:

Observed performing a range of tasks in a simulated work environment, over sufficient time to demonstrate your handling of a range of contingencies. Tasks may include: confirming the client treatment plan preparing the client and work area for an advanced facial treatment applying products and equipment to treat seborrhoea, flushed and prematurely aged skin.

Asked to answer written and/or oral questions to assess your knowledge and understanding of the procedures for applying advanced facials and procedures for infection control and the safe use of electrical equipment. Asked to complete workplace documentation related to the advanced facial treatment.

The assessor should inform you of the timing and location of your assessment. If you feel you are not yet ready for assessment, discuss this with your trainer or supervisor.

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Assessment

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Suggested answers

Suggested answers

Learning activity A1.1

Existing clients Did you experience any reactions following the treatment? Can you describe them? Did you notice an improvement or deterioration in your skin condition. New clients Do you suffer from any allergies? Please describe them. Do you have any medical conditions? Please describe them. Reasons After considering this information it will be possible to plan the forthcoming treatment and decide which aspects if any need to be changed and/or precautions taken. The information should be altered in the treatment plan. This is important to ensure that no other beauty therapist inadvertently performs a contra-indicated procedure, or one that the client is not comfortable with.
Learning activity B1.1

Characteristics of prematurely ageing skin: Fine lines are beginning to deepen. Skin looks older than the client is chronologically. Skin is no longer firm and elastic. Skin feels thinner and is showing "spider veins" Skin is starting to lose its muscle tone and sag Skin may have a leathery texture Fat cells beneath the skin may begin to disappear

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Suggested answers

Learning activity C3.5

Possible treatment combinations for prematurely ageing skin: Treatment 1 cleanse deep cleanse enzyme peel or granular peel to create less skin movement steam iontophoresis continental facial massage (twenty minutes) mask tone and moisturise.

Treatment 2 cleanse deep cleanse, soft brush and granular peel direct high frequency over cream massage (twenty minutes) mask tone and moisturise.

Treatment 3 cleanse steam neuromuscular electronic stimulation/micro current massage (ten minutes) mask tone and moisturise.

Treatment 4 steam viennese massage


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Suggested answers

mask iontophoresis tone and moisturise.

Learning activity C1.1

Seans skin would be characterised by areas of redness which could include broken capillaries. Areas specifically affected could include the nose and cheek areas. In Seans case, his skin condition would be caused by his overexposure to the sun (photosensitivity). Possible treatment sequences for red or flushed skin The salon applications will help to decongest and desensitise the skin. Once this has been achieved a maintenance program should continue. Treatment 1 cleanse enzyme peel to be sponged off steam positioned approximately one metre from client to hydrate and not warm iontophoresis infusing capillary strengthening active ingredients massage no petrissage on capillary damage mask calamine to vaso-constrict tone and moisturise.

Treatment 2 cleanse gommage for sensitive skin manual lymph drainage massage mask tone moisturise.

Treatment 3 cleanse enzyme peel with gentle steam

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Suggested answers

vacuum suction paying special attention to the lower face and neck to encourage drainage. limiting or avoiding movements on capillary damage massage ten minutes to further drainage of congestion mask tone and moisturise.

Treatment 4 cleanse gommage for sensitive skin viennese massage concentrating on neck and shoulder girdle to encourage decongestion mask tone and moisturise.

Learning activity C3.4

Disinfection is the process of killing specific micro-organisms by a physical or chemical means Sanitisation is the process of chemically reducing microbes to a level judged safe by public health requirements Sterilisation is the complete destruction of living matter
Learning activity D2.2

Setting masks A suitable mixture for an oily skin is as follows: 1 pt kaolin 1 pt magnesium carbonate 1/3 pt fullers earth Mix to a smooth paste with witch hazel. Application time is approximately eight to ten minutes.

This mask will have a deep cleansing, absorptive and refining action on the skin.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Suggested answers

Non-setting/phytotherapy The base for an oily skin would be a gel rather than a nourishing cream. The mask will probably contain a clay for absorption, for example, bentonite or kaolin. Active ingredients will be chosen to reduce sebaceous activity and heal. Examples of active ingredients are: camphor sage rosemary witch hazel.

Learning activity E2.1

Natasha Daily - cleanse, tone, moisturise, eye gel, sunscreen or foundation with sunscreen. Nightly - cleanse, tone, skin food, eye cream and neck cream. Weekly - peel mask, ampoules to rejuvenate. Attention should always be paid to dcolletage and hands to ensure they receive adequate attention. Special care - ampoules to reinforce night creams.

Sean Correct skin care is vital to ensure further damage to the skin is not caused. The client should be advised of suitable products that will help to reduce sensitivity and aid capillary wall strength. The following additional advice may be given. Ampoules to desensitise and strengthen capillaries. Active ingredients could include: azulene, calendula, St. Johns wort, horse chestnut. Products should be light in texture and easily applied to avoid stimulation. Use cotton wool to gently remove products rather than tissues or face cloth. Avoid extremes of hot and cold which will cause capillary damage, for example, sauna and cool plunge pool. Wear sunscreen. Use a water spray beneath moisturiser to avoid skin dehydration.
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Suggested answers

Skin care should include the following. Daily Nightly Weekly Cleanse (easily applied lotion) Cleanse Gentle peel Tone (light floral water) Tone Sensitive skin mask Water spray and moisturise Night cream Eye gel Eye cream

Dean The client should be advised of the importance of facial applications for the following: Prevention of the spread of infection. Deep cleansing. Stimulation of the skin to improve functioning. Increased elimination. Homecare recommendations may include the following. A healthy diet with little or no processed foods to eliminate preservatives and ensure adequate roughage. Constipation can be an irritant factor with acne. Exercise and fresh air to encourage elimination and increase overall health. If perspiration has been induced showering will remove excess sebum and ensure no aggravation occurs on pustular areas. Fatty foods should be reduced not because they make the skin oilier but because they are unhealthy. Sunlight will help to heal the skin but excess sun exposure will cause pigmentation on blemished areas. Sponges, face flannels, and towels should be changed daily. Drinking eight glasses of water daily will aid the elimination process. Cotton clothing should be worn next to the skin. Make-up should be medicated.

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

Suggested answers

Skin care should include the following: Daily Nightly Twice weekly Cleansing gel Cleansing gel Scrub (care should be taken on blemishes) Herbal tonic Herbal tonic Mask (setting to absorb and purify) Oil in water moisturiser Oil in water corrective cream Ampoules for sebum reduction Eye gel Eye cream

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Suggested answers

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Learner Guide WRBFS407B Provide advanced facial treatments

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