Lake Baikal Ebook

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RUSSIA, SIBERIA

A TRAVELLERS GUIDE TO

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A TRAVELLER'S GUIDE TO LAKE BAIKAL

The glimmering blue pearl of Russia, Lake Baikal is rightfully upheld as Siberias
most famous attraction. Its clear-as-a-mirror waters are a reflection of Siberias
wildness, its vastness and its beauty. A UNESECO World Heritage Site, the
crescent shaped lake extends for 636km from north to south and is up to 1,637m
deep, making it the deepest lake in the world. In fact, 20% of the worlds fresh
water is contained within Lake Baikal. The vast Baikal region is home to unique
indigenous cultures such as the Buddhist Buryat people. Traditional villages are
dotted along the lakes shore, interspersed with taiga forest and rocky steppes.

Irkutsk, the main gateway to Lake Baikal, houses museums, galleries, an opera
house and other cultural icons. However, its natural beauty amidst the rolling hills
and lush taiga forests astride the Angara River, the only tributary that flows from
Lake Baikal, is the real drawcard. Intersected by the Trans-Siberian Railway, the
Baikal region is an easily accessible and fabulously scenic place to get
acquainted with a world of uniquely Siberian thrills. Go dog sledding in
spectacular taiga forests, play a round of ice golf, or enjoy a summer sailing
expedition on the glassy surface of the lake. From adventure to relaxation to
fascinating cultural experiences, the Baikal region has it all.

See you at Lake Baikal very soon!

Call us on 1300 742 374 (Loll free from AusLralla) or +61-2-8221-88-39 from Lhe resL of Lhe world, or vlslL our webslLe
www.36Lhparallel.com

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SECTIONS WITHIN THIS EBOOK

When Lo vlslL Lake 8alkal - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 3
PlghllghLs of Lhe 8alkal 8eglon - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 6
CeLLlng ln and Around - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 19
LaLlng and Sleeplng- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 21
LLhnlc CulLures of 8alkal - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 26
1ours of Lake 8alkal - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 29

Call us on 1300 742 374 (toll free from Australia) or +61-2-8221-88-59 from the rest of the world, or visit our website
www.56thparallel.com

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LAKE BAIKAL FOR BEGINNERS


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WHEN TO VISIT LAKE BAIKAL

Lake Baikal offers beautiful scenery and plenty to see and do year-round. The high season for
Lake Baikal is late spring and summer, when the weather is warm (temperatures reach around
24 C by late May) and the landscape is lush and green. Spring and summer offer comfortable
conditions for hiking, camping, cycling and SCUBA diving, as well as the opportunity to sail and
kayak on the lake. Autumn brings cooler temperatures, fewer tourists and a beautiful, rich red
hue to the taiga. For many Baikal aficionados, winter is without a doubt the most spectacular time
to visit the region, as the lake is presented in all its serene, icy glory. From late February to April,
Lake Baikal is frozen, sealed by ice up to a metre thick and solid enough for cars to drive across
it. At this time of year, a host of winter activities are available on the lake and its surrounds,
including ice skating, cross-country skiing, dog sledding and ice fishing.
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HIGHLIGHTES OF LAKE BAIKAL


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IRKUTSK CITY

As the most populated area in the region, Irkutsk
(population 600,000) is Baikals unofficial capital,
and the main jumping off point for tourists exploring
the Baikal region. Apart from being on the Trans-
Siberian Railway and about an hours drive from the
lake, Irkutsk has a unique charm, an atmospheric
Old Town and quite a few attractions that make it
worthy of a visit in its own right.

As one of the oldest Siberian cities, the town is
home to several 17
th
century churches, an Opera
House, and a collection of attractive wooden
houses dating back to the time of the Decemberists
Russian aristocrats who were exiled to Irkutsk
after trying to prevent the coronation of Nicholas I.
The Irkutsk Regional Museum features fascinating
exhibits on the indigenous cultures of the Baikal
region.


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OLKHON ISLAND

1he mosL famous of 8alkal's Lhree dozen lslands ls
Clkhon, renowned for lLs sheer slze and Lhe
monumenLal grandeur of lLs landscapes. Clkhon's
craggy cllffs emerge dramaLlcally from Lhe clear
waLers of Lhe lake, and lLs lnLerlor ls verdanL wlLh
foresLs, hllls and meadows. Clkhon ls sparsely
lnhablLed, buL ls home Lo several eLhnlc 8uryaL
seLLlemenLs doLLed around Lhe lsland. Close Lo llvely
khuzhlr vlllage ls Shamanka (Shaman 8ock), Lhe
hollesL slLe for Lhe 8uryaLl people. lollowlng a [eep
Lrack down Lo Lhe khoboy enlnsula glves you Lhe
chance Lo vlslL shamanlc rlLual slLes and spoL
freshwaLer 8alkal seals sunbaklng on Lhe rocks
below.


A
WINTER SPORTS

Winter is perhaps the most spectacular time to
visit Lake Baikal, when the taiga is blanketed in
snow and around the lake are crystalline ice caves
and glittering grottoes waiting to be explored. A
variety of unique activities and experiences are on
offer over winter, including dog sledding,
snowmobiling, cross country skiing, hovercraft
rides, ice fishing and ice rafting.

When Baikal freezes over between late February
and April, its possible to ice skate, drive a buggy
or 4WD and even mountain bike over the surface
of the lake. Several ski resorts in the mountain
ranges around Lake Baikal have opened up,
including Inturist-Baikal near Listvyanka, and
Sobolinaya Mountain, just outside the town of
Baikalsk. The ski season lasts from late November
until May.


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OGOY ISLAND

A small island with an eight-metre-hight Buddhist
stupa of Enlightenment was raised at the highest
point. A Buddhist stupa and an object of worship
that means, support for gifts.

There are only two stupas in Russia on Lake
Baikal and in Kalmykia Republic. It is believed that
if you go around the stupa three times expressing
your respect to it and make a wish, it will come
true. There is only one condition: the thoughts of
the person who makes a wish should be pure.


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LISTVYANKA VILLAGE

70km from Irkutsk, nestled between the western
shore of the lake and the mouth of the Angara
River, Listvyanka is the most widely visited village
in the Baikal region, with a good selection of
hotels, restaurants and the opportunity to visit a
Russian banya (sauna). Theres plenty to see and
do in and around Listvyanka, including
picturesque hikes around the lake, horse riding,
mountain biking and dog sledding in winter.

The Limnological Museum, also known as the
Baikal Museum, features a large aquarium and
offers a great introduction to the unique flora and
fauna of the lake. 15km from Listvyanka on the
road to Irkutsk is the Taltsy Museum of Wooden
Architecture, with open air exhibits featuring real
wooden houses brought from all over Siberia.


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CIRCUM-BAIKAL RAILWAY

An extraordinarily scenic stretch of rail beginning
in Port Baikal, the Circum-Baikal Railway is
undoubtedly one of the most picturesque sections
of the Trans-Siberian Railway. An extraordinary
achievement in engineering, known as the gold
belt of Siberia, it was one of the grand projects of
Tsarist times. Built between 1896 and 1900 and
designed by architects and engineers summoned
from all over Europe, the rail was laid along the
edge of the coast through the dramatic slopes of
the Primorsky Range.

A fantastic day trip from Listvyanka, its possible
to hop on and off the train at some of the most
scenic points along the railway.


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TALTSY MUSEUM

The Taltsy Museum of Wooden Architecture and
Ethnography allows visitors to step into the everyday
life and culture of Siberians from past centuries.
Taltsy is a unique, open-air museum, which lets
visitors to walk around the 40 historical-architectural
monuments and over 8,000 other exhibits.

The museum is divided into two areas; the Russian
and the Buryat areas and offers a range of
historically and culturally significant monuments and
exhibits from the 17-20th centuries.

The Museum is set on 67 hectares of protected land
and featured replicate buildings from historical
Siberian villages, including houses, farmsteads,
churches, and a school building. Visitors can enter
these historical building and see tools, clothes,
furniture, and other everyday objects from Siberian
village life.


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HOT SPRINGS

Hot springs are dotted all around the Baikal region.
One of the more accessible places to enjoy their
steamy delights is the village of Arshan, a two hour
drive from the western coast of Lake Baikal in the
foothills of the thickly forested Sayan Mountains. On
the main street youll find the Arshan Spa, a once-
grand 1920s resort, which still attracts a steady
stream of visitors to its soothing mineral pools and
mud baths. Water temperatures range from 11 to
45C, with each pool said to possess different
healing properties.

Around Arshan you can escape to peaceful walks in
the forest and the Badkirkharma Datsan, a quaint
Buddhist temple with a stunning mountain
backdrop.


"&
PESCHANAYA BAY

Peschanaya Bay (Sandy Bay) is one of the
Baikals symbols. Its picture is met in many printed
publications worldwide Peschanaya Bay is the only
place on the lake where one can see the
miraculous "walking-on-stilts" trees, a real wonder
of Baikal. The trees have risen above the earth on
their stilt-like roots, from under which water and
winds blow out the soil.

Peschanaya Bay is one of the most beautiful places
of lake Baikal. Slopes covered with taiga woods,
plenty of large and small rock formations, cedars
and cleanest pebble beach.


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VALLEY OF VOLCANOES

A very unique place, situated in the East Sayan
Mountains (Republic of Buryatia) not far from the
Lake Baikal. This fold is a water gap of the rivers
Khi-Gol and Zhombolok, filled with lava from the
volcanoes Kropotkins and Peretolchins, which
were active just a few thousands years ago. The
thickness of the lava layer in the valley reaches 150
meters, and nothing grows on its grey surface, in
spite of the volcanic necks.

The special feature of this place is that all the
seasons can be presented during the time you will
spend there. It means that the snowfalls in the
middle of the hot summer are not an outstanding
event in the volcanoes valley.


"?
ULAN-UDE CITY

The appealing capital of Burayatiya, 'UU' is 456km
east of Irkutsk by rail and makes a sensible staging
post for visiting Mongolia or eastern Lake Baikal.
The city prospered as a major stop on the tea-
caravan route from China, Ulan means 'Red' in
Buryat, yet Ulan-Ude is pleasantly green, cradled
attractively in rolling hills. Despite the inevitable
concrete suburban sprawl, it remains one of the
most likable cities in eastern Siberia.

The main attractions in Ulan-Ude are the two
museums (of history and of nature), Ivolginsky
Buddhist Datsan, and open-air Ethnographic
Museum. All these sights are really interesting, and
are well worth hopping off the Trans-Siberian train,
and spending 2 or 3 days in Ulan-Ude.


"@
IVOLGINSKY DATSAN

The home to the epicenter of Buddhism in Russia
the mysterious Ivolginksy Datsan; along with the
awe of the elaborately decorated temples is the
phenomenon that is the preserved body of Khambo
Lama, formally Dashi-Dorzho Itigilov, His education
into the Buddhist teachings and conviction enabled
Itigilov to pursue the greatest constituent of his
faith, becoming Khambo Lama, the head
of Buddhism in Russia.

Pilgrims flock to Ivolginsky Datsan because they
believe that Itigilov body has healing powers, as
such pilgrims flock to press their foreheads to the
lamas scarf. The Lama is only on display for 7 days
of the year however the pilgrim doesnt stop there
the monastery itself is a magnificent wonder for the
eyes. The monastery attracts visitors year round
allowing the public to be enlightened by the
Buddhist history, Meditation and the Buddhist faith,
as well as the surrounding countryside.


"A
GETTING IN AND AROUND


#B
BY AIR

The closest airport to Baikal is Irkutsk, around
70km from the southern part of the lake. There
are regular flights from the major Russian
cities to Irkutsk, including from Moscow, St
Petersburg, Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk and
Krasnoyarsk. There are also several flights a
week to Irkutsk from Beijing and occasional
flights from Bangkok, Hong Kong and
seasonally, twice a week from Seoul. For the
western shore of Lake Baikal, the closest
airport is Ulan-Ude. Its a smaller airport,
serviced by flights from Moscow and the larger
Siberian airports, as well as flights from
Beijing.

OVERLAND

Most travellers arriving in Lake Baikal overland
get to the region via the famous Trans-
Siberian Railway, typically departing from
Moscow. From Moscow, the train takes three
days to reach Irkutsk. From Irkutsk, the train
passes along the far southern shore of Lake
Baikal and on to Ulan-Ude. Another option is
to begin your journey in China (Beijing) or
Mongolia (Ulan-Bator) along the Trans-
Mongolian Railway, which meets up with the
Trans-Siberian in Ulan-Ude in south eastern
Siberia.

Most travellers make their way between major
destinations in Baikal by using the regular
public buses, or on much-faster private
transport via an organised tour.


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EATING AND SLEEPING


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ACCOMODATION IN LAKE BAIKAL
The largest cities in the Baikal region, Irkutsk and Ulan-Ude, offer a wide range of
accommodation options, making them good places to rest, relax and gather information before
setting out for the lake itself. Both cities, particularly Irkutsk, have three and four star hotels of an
international standard, as well as selection of mid-range options, budget guesthouses and
hostels.

Listvyanka is the most popular place on the lake itself for travellers to stay, and as such has an
increasingly decent array of lodging to choose from, both in the village itself and in the
picturesque forested surroundings. Several of the more upmarket hotels offer chalet style
accommodation overlooking the lake and the Angara River, and have attached restaurants and
banyas.

#$
Several boutique resorts have opened on Olkhon
Island in the last few years, many with traditional
wooden cabins, restaurants and banyas.

Camping in Olkhons sheltered beaches and
tranquil forests is also a popular option, especially
for hikers and mountain bikers, and theres also the
long-standing Nikitas Guesthouse in Khuzir village,
a well-loved backpackers getaway with traditional
carved wooden buildings and home-cooked meals
ensuring an authentic local experience.

Some of the smaller villages around Lake Baikal
offer homestay accommodation. Families that open
their homes to guests advertise with a sign out the
front.


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DINING IN LAKE BAIKAL
If its a fine dining experience youre after, Irkutsk is definitely your best bet. As the city
welcomes more and more visitors, the dining scene in this city at the crossroads of Europe and
Asia has become increasingly sophisticated. Figaro overlooks a historic part of the city centre
and serves up quality European fare with friendly service and a smart casual atmosphere.
Rassolnik and Snezhinka both dish up excellent traditional Russian dishes in quirky Soviet-era
inspired surrounds. There are plenty of other options to cater for all tastes and budgets in Irkutsk
and Ulan-Ude, offering Russian, European and Asian cuisine.


#&
Cafes and family-run restaurants serving regional
Siberian and Russian food are found in travellers
hubs and resort villages throughout the Baikal
region. Finding a simple, affordable meal is no
problem at all, although theres not always a great
deal of variety to be found in this rather remote part
of the world.

Be sure to check out some of the traditional
specialities of Buryat cuisine. Buryat is a nomadic
cuisine centred around meat and dairy products.
The best known Buryat dish is buuza (or pozy, in
Russian), a hearty steamed dumpling filled with
minced meat and served in just about every Buryat
kafe.

Naturally, wild caught fish from Lake Baikal play an
important role in the regions cuisine. The most
sought-after Baikal fish include omul, cisco, grayling
and sturgeon. The local fish soup, ukha, is
traditionally prepared using freshly caught fish
boiled in crystal clear Baikal water, and is
remarkably fragrant and flavoursome.


#>
ETHNIC CULTURES OF BAIKAL


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The Lake Baikal region of Siberia is remarkable in
that many of its indigenous inhabitants have largely
maintained a traditional way of life outside of the
city. Here, differing cultures not only co-exist but
complement each other, as Russian customs and
traditions merge with ancient Buryat foundations.

The Mongol-descended Buryats are Siberias
largest ethnic group, and many still practise an
esoteric mix of Buddhist and shamanistic religion.
Buryat culture blends ancient animistic rituals and
beliefs with Buddhist ideas brought from Mongolia
and Tibet. The Buryats were historically semi-
nomadic peoples, although today many of them live
in permanent settlements, particuarly within the city
of Ulan-Ude.

Today the Republic of Buryatia, on the eastern
shore of Siberia, is home to 12 Buddhist
communities and 14 Buddhist datsans (temples).
The most famous datsan is Ivolginsky, 30km from
Ulan-Ude. The residence of Russias head lama, it
attracts pilgrims from around the world.


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Buryatia is also a stronghold of the Russian Old
Believers, who live in rural villages across the
region. Between 1652 and 1666, reforms within the
Russian Orthodox Church were met with deep-
seated opposition, resulting in the split of the
Russian church into many subgroups.

Those who refused to accept the new rules and
revisions became alienated, and many were forced
to move their families to remotest Siberia. Dubbed
the Old Believers, or more locally, Semeiskie
(family), today the colourful villages and wooden
churches of this once-persecuted group are a
distinctive part of Buryatias cultural landscape.


#A
TOURS OF LAKE BAIKAL

The Baikal region is incredibly vast, making an organised group tour or a private expedition a
great way to see the sites. A tour gives you the opportunity to visit some of the more remote
parts of the region, without having to rely on the sometimes scarce public transportation. As
Siberias best known travel destination, a wide range of tour options are available, catering to
both the general traveller and those with more specialised interests, whether youre into
adventure activities and extreme sports, or are seeking an immersive experience discovering the
indigenous cultures of Siberia. 56
th
Parallel is one of the premier tour companies operating in the
Baikal region, offering a choice of fully escorted tours and private charters. Visit
www.56thparallel.com to see a full list of seasonal tours in the Lake Baikal region.


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