FEATURE ARTICLE: TRISTAR 1:35 PZ38(t) KIT NO.

35026 (B) 35020 (E/F)

THIRTY-EIGHT T FOR TWO!

Angus Creighton builds not one, but two of Tristars Panzer 38(t) kits, the ausf B and ausf E/F

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

fter the Germans occupied Czechoslovakia in 1938, they decided to continue with manufacture of the LT vz.38, re-naming it the Panzer Kpfw.38(t). Experience with early versions like the Ausf B (produced in early 1940) led to armour thickness increasing on the Ausf E/F (produced November 1940 to May 1941). Tristar have released versions of the Ausf B, E/F and G, with a supplementary interior detailing set providing both the crew and engine bays. The Ausf B and E/F versions are modelled here. Construction commences with the hull. To maximise detail, Tristar have opted to mould the hull as flat panels, which need to be carefully aligned as they are glued. If you intend to fit an interior as I have done here, there are a number of ejector pin marks on the inside that will require filling and sanding. These are very subtle on the Ausf B, but quite deep on the Ausf E/F. With the latter, the interior detail (cable conduit) on the right hand wall is missing, so these will need to be added using fine rod or wire. The armour plate directly in front of the driver and radio operator is best fitted at this stage as the join can be covered with a plastic card flange and bolt heads added. I left the gearbox armour plate on the Ausf E/F kit separate as this makes installing the internal components a little easier. With the Ausf B, this plate was fixed, but the internal parts could still be installed correctly.

EXHAUST BOX

The exhaust silencers with both kits can be fitted late in the build, which makes painting a little easier. The later production tank has a modified exhaust, moved up the back plate to allow a smoke candle rack to be installed. You may notice the rack on my model is a resin casting. To keep all my models consistent, I created a detailed master some years ago and use it on all my builds whenever this rack type is required. The one provided by Tristar is more than adequate, but lacks some little interior details. The chains seen hanging down on the finished tank are by Aber. The fenders are well-detailed on top and include the characteristic kink upwards halfway along. The undersides are blank with a number of deep ejector pin marks. Although this detail is poor compared with fenders on, say, the latest Dragon kits, the area is obscured by the tracks so is not really worth worrying about. The fenders need to be thinned a little at the front and back to better suggest the thickness of the original. Dont forget to add the electrical conduits for the external lights and horn that ran along where the fenders joined with the hull. As far as I can tell, the fender supports had small holes in the corner to allow the cable conduit to pass through. All cables lead back to the engine bay where they loop over the edge of the bay and disappear inside.

MOVING INSIDE

With the basic construction of the exterior complete, its time to consider the interior. By assembling the hull first, any subsequent painting will cover joins perfectly. Precisely what colour the interior should be is open to debate; I have not been able to track down conclusive documentation. I therefore opted to apply a red oxide to the floor and after masking, ivory to the side-walls. All fittings provided by Tristar can be individually painted and added after the hull has been painted. The interior is pretty much as provided in the Tristar kit. Components are based on a series of photographs taken of the interior of the original LT vs.38 prior to being fitted out for German use. One standout feature is the gearbox and steering linkage. Assembled from plastic and photo-etched brass, the level of detailing is outstanding (Perhaps ignore the fact that the original may have been covered with a flat sheet metal shroud). Not included are typical German additions such as gas mask canisters, mess tins, water bottles that you might expect to see. Tristar provide a very detailed radio receiver, transformer and rack, but give no clue as to where to install it. As far as I can tell, no images exist confirming its placement. Added to this dilemma is the command version where a second transmitter was fitted. With SPs such as the Marder III, the two radios were mounted over the drive shaft, but this seems impractical on the standard 38(t) where the turret rotated. Some have suggested radios were in the turret, with a dummy gun fitted, but images exist showing command tanks with the turret rotated and the main gun in operation (being cleaned). We do know that the hull MG was removed to accommodate the radio, and we can see the cable connecting the frame antenna attached to the hull. I have opted to install the standard receiver above the operators head (apparently where the original Czech radio was fitted) and the command transmitter in front of the operator, with

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FEATURE ARTICLE: ITALERI 1:35 AB-41 ARMOURED CAR KIT NO. 6442

The engine block and gearbox/steering system are seen here, the latter with their photo-etched brass parts in place

The engine block has been painted and given a colour-wash to impart an oily appearance

A view through the glacis access hatch partially shows off the steering gear

The ammunition stowage racks are complex affairs and photo-etched brass is the best material for their formation in miniature

The gearbox and steering with a coat of nearblack, and a metallic surface treatment

Both models reach the same constructional stage

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

Ausf.B build-up

The engine of the Ausf.B in its bay, which has been painted in a dull red colour to suggest red-lead oxide primer which was commonly used in the areas of tank interior not in use by the crew

The tiny fighting compartment with elfenbein (ivory) colour walls and firewall

The drivers station is seen here, before the upper hull is fixed in place. Note the ammo stowage and green-coloured fire extinguisher

Above and below; the radio operator sat alongside the driver with his radio sets directly in front and to his left. Note the canvas seat covers and red-brown electrical cabling

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRISTAR 1:35 PZ38(t) KIT NO. 35026 (B) 35020 (E/F)

The undersides of the engine access hatches were painted in red oxide primer as was the engine bay, below

the transformer mounted over the hull MG position. I must stress that this is an educated guess and not based on fact.

ENGINE BUILD-UP

Moving to the engine, I built this straight from the box. Once again colour direction is sketchy although the consensus would suggest red oxide for the interior, with a silver crankcase and dark green head. The radiator assembly is painted black, with the centrifugal fan impeller finished in natural metal. Battery cables, suppressor leads and linkages to the single carburettor could all be added to further to the improve detail. Finally time to look at the turret interior. The gun breach and seats are included in the standard kit, with the turret traverse mechanism and ammo lockers provided in the interior set. The latter comprise a very complicated looking perforated etched brass assembly, with moulded ammo cases that slot inside.

rivets. My only other addition was a turned aluminium main gun by Aber. The plastic kit gun is not bad, but the outlet hole was off centre on both kits, so the turned Aber replacement offered an inexpensive solution. Terry Ashley of Perth Military Modelling suggests the kit barrel is up to 3mm too long. The Aber barrel needs to be fitted further into the breech to ensure the overall length is reduced accordingly.

grain, with the detail picked out using oil paint. The supports are plastic card. Many Pz38(t)s mounted four jerry cans on the engine deck, in a crude wooden tray. I added this feature using 1939/40 pattern cans by Tasca and a plastic card tray. Copper foil was used to create the retaining strap.

MAKING TRACKS

TIME TO PAINT

TURRET

The original turret was constructed using plates bolted or riveted to a simple internal framework. There is no suggestion of either internal rivets or frame, so I added this detail by installing strips of 2mm plastic card and adding punch and die

I assume both tanks were used in the Russian campaign, thus grey camouflage should be uniform. The lower hull on both tanks were oversprayed with a dusty sand colour, followed by spot washes in various browns to pick out the bolt detail. The decals are by Cartograph and have perfect registration and conform to the kit perfectly. Most of the tools were added after the hulls were painted. The leather retaining straps are provided in etch by Tristar, but I remade these using copper foil, as they are easier to bend into natural shapes. The jack blocks were reworked to better represent the wood-grain effect, by gently scraping lines in the surface with the point of a scalpel. New plastic card straps added along with the central wing nut retainer. The unditching beam is made in the same way, with a plastic bar scribed to suggest wood-

The tracks provided by Tristar are the same in both kits. Well detailed, with finely hollowed guide horns, there would seem little need to upgrade. However, the original Ausf B was supplied with an early pattern track with smaller solid guide horns and a different face pattern. The Australian company WWII Productions produce these tracks in resin and are worth the investment if you want to create a truly accurate early Pz38(t). The links are beautifully cast and even sport casting numbers on each link. Cleanup is minimal, they are articulated after assembly and painting and the Tristar running gear does not need to be modified to fit these tracks. I used 89 links per side. It is worth noting that many Ausf B photographed later in the war appear to mount the later style track so Tristar are not incorrect including this pattern in the kit. Simply because I had a set in stock I used resin tracks on the Ausf E/F as well.

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Ausf.E/F build-up

Views into the turret of the Ausf.E/F showing the white plastic strip where the author has made his detail improvements. Copper wire cabling and a little PE was also used on the interior

Pioneer tools and jack block on the fender of the Ausf.E/F. Note the position of the Balkenkreuz

The delicate steering gear is made up from multiple photo-etched brass elements

The tools were fitted with brass clamps and the horn received an electrical cable

The Ausf.E/Fs hull prior to the installation of the gearbox and other equipment

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TRISTAR 1:35 PZ38(t) KIT NO. 35026 (B) 35020 (E/F)

This view into the Ausf.E/Fs turret shows the ammunition stowage racks and the generally cramped conditions

More ammo stowage was found in the lower hull area, behind the radio operator

FINAL THOUGHTS

It is a clich that many reviewers use when we finish a great kit and write cant wait to build another. Well, that is precisely what I did with this excellent little model which is why you have two to look at. Tristars Pz38(t) kits are superb models, accurately researched and tooled. I could have written far more, pointing out noteworthy details but I need to leave some room for photos! I hope the images speak for themselves an outstanding kit. Finally, a big thank you to Bill at WWII productions who was out of stock of the early tracks, but specially cast me a set. These duly arrived in little over a week from my first email. ww2productions@netspace.net.au

As can be seen here, it was well worth the effort adding the structural strips and rivets to the turrets inner walls, seen unpainted below

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:48 TIGER I KIT NO. 32504

FIFTY SHADES OF GRAU:

A NEW APPROACH TO COLOUR

Jos Luis Lopez Ruiz describes a new way to paint a 1:48 Tiger I

es, so sorry, its another boring Tiger I! Many modellers love them, many hate them. I usually prefer more modern vehicles than WW2, but I think that the Tiger I is an icon that still commands respect among modellers. Its an awesome tank with a tremendous firepower and armour, but lacking in mobility and reliability. Most German tank aces used this vehicle during their career in the Heavy Tank Battalions, like 503, with whom my Tiger I was fielded in Russia.

LETS PAINT THE TIGER

Ill be describing a new painting technique with this vehicle sorry, it has no name but think about all the following processes as a general idea. Just extract your own ideas about why and what for, theres no universal recipe for painting a tank!

PREPARATION

When youre painting a kit, all the steps are important. So, I cant say that these three first steps are the most important But, for many modellers, the bad results painting with the airbrush starts here.

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:48 TIGER I KIT NO. 32504

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In this step, you can see Gunzes Metal primer. I always apply this primer with a brush over the metal surfaces such as gun barrel, PE parts

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Once Gunzes primer was dry, I applied (with an airbrush) Tamiyas surface primer. This was the first time I used the white primer and I must say that its more difficult to apply than the grey one

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One of the most desperate moments for the modeller is when he discovers than the paint has granulated. There are several variables that causes this; lack of moisture in the air, too much dust in the environment, stale paint, dirty airbrush But even in the worst situation, we have a great ally; fine sandpaper. Use it when necessary over granulated surfaces (be careful with PE parts!), and, very important, the surface must be as soft and clean as the skin of a baby!

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General pre-shading. With this black and white technique, not too much of this step will be seen later. I used a 90% black 10% white mix applied with my airbrush, using Tamiya acrylic paint thinned with lacquer thinner. Do not use your airbrush like a paintbrush; one pass over a surface does not mean its painted. Maybe after the sixth or seventh time, itll be done

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Using 80% white and 20% black, I started to paint the general colour of my black and white base. The paint was heavily thinned as I want the pre-shading work to be seen under this general base colour. The last step was made using pure white paint. Some skill with the airbrush are required, but this preliminary base is a great place to start gaining confidence with one of your best modelling weapons!

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Using pure white acrylic paint from Vallejo, with a brush, I painted some details here and there (clasps, rivets, edges). I played with the number of coats of paint (one is never enough, like with airbrush) so, not all the details have the same white intensity

Now, time for chipping. For many modellers, this can be a real nightmare. Actually, it is a really difficult step, not only making them in the right shape, but also locating them in the correct places. And its also tedious work and frustrating at times; many, times, a well painted kit is spoiled by a bad chipping work

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:48 TIGER I KIT NO. 32504

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General washes were applied all over the tank. I used for this task Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, a great product that can be mixed with any of Tamiyas enamel range and can be thinned with Tamiyas Enamel Thinner (blue cap). Before this, I added a generous coat of Tamiyas X22 Clear with my airbrush, a necessary step for washes and weathering with this technique

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Pictures 9 and 10: Time for weathering. Not true weathering but a technique that will help you to create a surface full of contrast for the future base colour. Like on chipping task, you have now the perfect chance to take some risks with the effects in this step. Start thinking about the finished tank and start looking for attractive weathering and colour effects here and there. Just enjoy playing with your brush!

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

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Once the gloss black paint is dry (5-10 minutes or even less), with a cotton stick, start removing the paint like if youre using a pencil, drawing the final shape of the weathering all around the kit

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Did you think that youd have to wait days to see the base-colour develop? No my friends! We have been doing all this work just to spend no more than ten minutes painting the Panzer Grey base-colour! I just used Tamiyas XF-63 Panzer Grey with a little bit of white added, heavily thinned (90% thinner) in several, light coats. I lingered with the mix in some places but, as can be clearly seen in the pictures, all the underlying effects can be clearly seen through the thin grey film and look integrated with the base colour. Just at the end, I airbrushed pure white in a few areas to create some extreme highlights

Now its time to apply the base-coat for the accessories. Probably, once the vehicle is close to being finished, Ill change some of the colours according to the general aspect of the vehicle. But I like to paint this base coat on the tools, accessories and so on, as it really helps to evaluate the general contrast and finish of the tank. I used different brown colours for the wooden parts and pure black for the metallic parts

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Colour-washes always help to increase the perception of the detail on a kit. Before the washes, I applied two solid coats of Tamiya X22 Clear, the perfect base for washes as it lets them run easily in and around the kits details. For this task, as in the previous steps, I used Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color mixed with XF-52 Flat Earth, using Tamiyas thinner (blue cap) to keep the mix fluid and easy to control

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:48 TIGER I KIT NO. 32504

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Now, its time to spoil the previous work! No pain, no gain! Why not try a new product? In this case, I used AK Interactives enamel Africa Dust (AK22) instead Tamiyas enamel because I felt that the yellowish dust of this product would be perfectly suited to the Tiger. If you dont have this product, you can also use Tamiya enamel paint to do it using buff, white and a little bit of desert yellow

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Now, using AKs thinner, I started to remove the applied dust to my taste. I just waited fifteen minutes and then, using a brush, I cleaned the kit in the desired areas. Even by the next day I was able to do this because the enamel nature of AKs product. I must say that Im happy with the product, easy to apply and easy to remove with a tasty colour for me

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

ABOUT THE MODELLER

Name: JOSE LUIS LOPEZ RUIZ

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Age: 41 Lives: Las Rozas, Madrid (Spain) Modelling experience: Dreaming with kits since 1971, making them 2008 Favourite modelling subject: Anything easy to built and interesting to paint! Modern or WWII vehicles, Sci-fi, airplanes.... Anything else: Always looking for new challenges! Mr Tamiya should be canonized and become a saint!

Pictures 17 and 18: Once the base dust colour shapes looked okay to me, I applied a nice coat of matt varnish (Marabu) to seal in the dust and to avoid damage from further steps. Once dry, (a couple of days; be patient!), I add some dirt-details here and there using acrylic paints. I always use the same colours for this: black, dark mud and buff. Mixing them I got a nice dirt colour series. I added water a lot of water to the mix to ensure that the desired effects were subtle. If I want a more intense effect, I have just to pass with the brush more times, thats all!

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FEATURE ARTICLE: TAMIYA 1:48 TIGER I KIT NO. 32504

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Pictures 19 to 24: Another daring step, where a little faith is necessary! There are a lot of ways to simulate mud: with plaster, with acrylic resin and pigments, with specific products and so on. My favourite is Tamiyas texture paint. Why? A big bottle, you can mix it with sand, pigments or acrylic paint and, most of all, it will bond strongly to any kind of surface. Adding some dark brown pigment and paint to Tamiyas paint, I can achieve a nice colour to start adding the mud. Anyway, the colour is NOT important, just the texture, which must be in scale and as heterogeneous as possible. Using a brush, I applied the mix to the wheels and the lower parts of the tank. As can be seen in the pictures, the result is anything but nice! But keep the faith! This is just the beginning! Once the texture paint was dry (a day or more) using a colour mix of paints similar to the AK dust, I randomly applied a fine coat of dust over the wheels. Be sure that this paint does not hide all the elements or youll achieve a dull and unattractive surface

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Time for the tracks. Always use the same dust colours for the tracks as you did for the rest of the vehicle. Of course you can play a little bit with the mix proportions, but do not use different colours to simulate the same effect: dust and dirt

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Military Illustrated Modeller - October 2012

FINAL THOUGHTS

And its time to finish the work! Its very complex to really finish a tank, because just at the end we start to make little changes in the kit here and there using all the techniques explained before. Localised washes, final highlighting, some pigments here and there, splashes on the wheels applied with AKs products (damp earth, mud) and an old brush, polish metal bare metal parts with a pencil (graphite), so on. I strongly recommend to work slowly and, as always, have a clear idea about the final look of your kit. Its the only way to properly use all the techniques explained in this and many other articles. Remember, you must always have an answer to two questions, once youre thinking about any weathering technique; why and what for? To my family, my great support, for their infinite patience, for their love. And thanks also to Marcus, the Editor, for the chance of publishing for the first time in his magazine. Hopefully not the last!

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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