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GIFT OF
JVlarcia BradvTuckcr

JOURNAL
OF

VOYAGES AND TRAVELS

IN

THE

INTERIOUR OF NORTH AMERICA,

BETWEEN THE 47TH AND 58th DEGREES OF NORTH LATITUDE, EXTEND* ING FROM MONTREAL NEARLY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, A DISTANCE OF ABOUT 5,000 MILES, INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRIN
CIPAL OCCURRENCES, DURING A RESIDENCE OF NINETEEN YEARS, IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY,

TO WHICH ARE ADDED,

A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE FACE OF THE COUNTRY, ITS INHABITANTS, THEIR MANNERS, CUSTOMS, LAWS, RELIGION, ETC. AND CONSIDERABLE SPECIMENS OF THE TWO LANGUAGES, MOST EXTENSIVELY

SPOKEN TOGETHER WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS, TO BE FOUND IN THE FORESTS AND PRAIRIES OF THIS EXTENSIVE REGION.
;

ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP OF THE COUNTRY.

BY DANIEL WILLIAMS HARMON^

A PARTNER
IN

THE NORTH WEST COMPANY.

ANDOVER
PRINTED BY FLAGG AND GOULD.

1820.

DISTRICT OF VERMONT, to wit

Be

it

remembered, that on the second day of August,

in the forty fifth

year of the independence of the United States of America, Calvin Harmon of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words following, to wit A Journal of Voyages and Travels iu the interiour of North America, between the 47th and 58th degrees of north latitude, extending from Montreal nearly to the Pacific Ocean, a distance of about five thousand miles, including an account of the principal occurrences, during a residence of nineteen years, in different parts of the country. To which are added, a concise description of the face of the country, its inhabitants, their manners, customs, laws, religion, &c. and considerable specimens of the two languages, most extensively spoken ; together with an account of the principal animals, to be found in the forests and prairies of this extensive region. Illustrated by a Map of the country. By Daniel Williams Harmon, a partner in the north-west company. In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, "An act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authours and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned."
;

JESSE GOVE,
'

5 <r

fof Vermont. ; Met

le

/<he Dis

WW

PREFACE,
BY THE EDITOR.

Having
press, I

prepared the following work for the

to say respecting
it,
it,

have a few things

in

and the part

formed.

regard to

which

have per-

The

authour of these Voyages and Travels,

in

had no thought, while making publick

the N.
It

W.

Country, of

his Journal.
his

was commenced

and continued, partly for

partly to gratify
his

own amusement, and

who, he thought,

friends,

would be pleased
ticularity,

to

be informed, with some par-

on

his

return,

how

his

time had been

employed, during
ed to

his absence.

When

he return-

civilized society,
in

he found that

curiosity

was

awake,

regard to the state of the country which

vi

PREFACE.
visited

he had

and the repeated questions,

relat-

ing to this subject,

which he was called upon

to

answer, together with the suggestions of some

persons, in

whose judgment he placed much

confi-

dence, that such a publication might be useful,

first

determined him to commit the following work

to the press.

Had

he carried into the wilderness a greater

stock of general information, and expected, on his

return, to

appear

in this

manner before the

publick,

his inquiries

would undoubtedly have been more

extensive, and the result of

satisfactory,

them would be more

to

men

of science.

Had

literary

men been

in the habit

of traversing the regions

which he has
them,

visited,

he would have

left

it

to

to give an account of

them
in

to

the publick.

Having remained nineteen years

North America, without
visiting,

the interiourof

during that time,

the civilized part of the world, and having,

times,

many

changed the place of

his

residence, while

there, he

has had an opportunity for taking a

its

wide survey of the country, and of

and
if

inhabitants

the information which he has collected, be

PREFACE*
not equal to his opportunities,
it is

Vii

such as no other

existing publication will fully afford.

c Kenzie's

Voyages give some account of a conis

siderable part of the country which

scribed.

here de-

His residence

in

it,

however, was much

shorter than that of the authour of this work, and

his personal

acquaintance with the different parts

limited.
It is

of it, was
this

much more

not intended, by

remark, to detract from the reputation, which

that respectable traveller and his work, have de-

servedly gained.

By

his toilsome

and dangerous

voyage

to the

North Sea, and by leading the way,

through the Rocky Mountain, to the Pacific Ocean,

he has richly merited the commendation which he

has received.

By comparing
c it

the following

work

with that of

M Kenzie,
we
is

will

appear, that, though

the geographical details are less minute, the country surveyed, if

except the voyage to

the

North Sea, which

this publication,
is

wholly out of the sphere of

considerably more extensive

in

and the information,

is

regard to the inhabitants,

Considerable additions

much more

particular.

are here made, to the existing stock of geographical

information, particularly as

it

respects

the

Vlll

PREFACE.

country beyond the

sis

Rocky Mountain.

The
is

bathat

of the map, here given to the publick,

c

of Sir Alexander

M Kenzie, drawn by Arrowsmith.

corrections, and to

That map has received many

it

many important

additions
;

have been made, by

so that
it

the authour of this work

is

presumed

now

to

be the most correct

map

of the interiour of

North America, which has ever been published.

Literary
est in

men have

recently taken

much

inter-

comparing the
this

different Indian languages,

spoken on

continent, with

each other, and

with other languages, particularly with those anciently

spoken on the other continent.

very conspoken,

siderable vocabulary of the one which

is

with a

little

variation of dialect, through the long

tract of country,

from a

little

back of Montreal

to

the

Rocky Mountain, and one

less extensive of the

it,

principal language
en.

spoken beyond

are here giv-

Sir Alexander
first,

M Kenzie
c

has given a voca-

bulary of the
son, to

which

will

be found, on compariis

be somewhat different from that, which

in this
this.

contained
signed for

work.

Two

reasons

may be

as-

In the country about the Atha-

basca Lake, where

M Kenzie
c

principally resided,

PREFACE*

the Cree or Knisteneux language

ure, a

is,

in

some meas-

mixed dialect
is

and

it is

far less pure, than

that which
plains.
zie,

spoken by the inhabitants of the

words, also, are spelled by
to the

The

Ken-

much according
which
is

French sound of the

letters,

frequently calculated to mislead

an English reader.
the

Thus, the name of God, or

Good
is

Spirit,

which

M Kenzie
c

spells Ki-jai-

Manitou,

here spelled Kitch-e-mon-e-too.

will account, in a
;

The

above remark
this difference
in

great measure, for

will

and for that which

be found,
is

the spelling of

many other words.

of Mr.

This

the
(for

native language of the wife

so
I

Harmon,

may now

call her, as

they have been regular-

ly married)

and great pains have been taken to

make

this

vocabulary correct, by making the nice

distinctions in the

sound of the words, as derived

from her repeated pronunciation of them.

this

With
it

language he

is,

also, well

acquainted, since

has been daily spoken in his family, and by himself, for

many

years.

The
was not
than
it

education
classical
;

of the authour

of this

work

and had
2

it

been more extensive

his

was, a residence for

more than half of

X
life,

PREFACE.
since

he has arrived

to years of understanding,
is

in

a country

where the English language

rarely

spoken, would have poorly qualified him to give

to this publication, a suitable English dress.

The
ing this
arising

editor undertook the business of prepar-

work

for the press, with

some reluctance,

from the shortness of the time that could

it,

be allowed him for the performance of

and the

numerous avocations of the gospel ministry, which

would leave but a part of that time
mand.
at his
in

own com-

For undertaking

it

at

all,

such circum-

stances, his only apology

is,

that, in the opinion of

the authour, there was no other person, conveniently situated for personal intercourse with him,

who would be

willing to undertake

it,

whose
It is

cir-

cumstances would be more favourable.

by

the particular request of the authour, and not be-

cause

suppose that

have performed the

to

office

of an editor, in a
that
I

manner creditable

myself,

have consented to connect

my name

with

this publication.

The

following

work was furnished

;

to

my

hand, fully written out

it

and though

have written

wholly over,

should have been

much

better

PREFACE.
able to satisfy myself, with respect to
I

xi

its style, if

could as fully have possessed the materials,

in

the form of notes and sketches, or by verbal recitals.

Every man's own mind

;

is

the mould of

his

language

and he

who
be

has attempted to vary

at
all

that of another, if he
writing,

accustomed

to

must have found the task more

difficult

than original composition.

is

The

style of this

work

not properly

my

own, nor that of Mr. Harmon,

but something between both.

There
cially to

is

one subject, on which

wish espe-

address a few remarks, through the methis preface, to the christian publick,

dium of
to all

and

who

feel

any regard for the welfare of the

is

Indian tribes, whose condition

unfolded

in

this

work.
riour of

As Mr. Harmon has returned

to the inte-

North America, and, therefore, the obser-

vations

which

follow, will not be submitted to his

inspection, before they are

tor alone

made

publick, the edi-

must be made accountable for them.

In surveying the widely extended trade of the

North West Company, we perceive evidence of

an energy and perseverance, highly creditable, to
the

members of

it,

as

men

of business.

They

XII

PREFACE.
wilds,

have explored the western

and planted

their establishments over a tract of country,

some

thousands of miles in extent.

the savages of the

They have made

many

wilderness tributary to the

;

comforts of civilized society

ces,

and

in

instanin

they have exhibited a surprising fortitude,

exposing themselves to hardship and to danger.

The

souls of the
;

Indians

are
this

of

more value
in

than their furs

and to raise

people

the

scale of intellectual existence,

to surround

them them

with the comforts of

civilization, to

rescue

from the gloom of

superstition, to

mould their

hearts to christian kindness, and to cheer their

dying hour with a well founded hope of immortal

glory and blessedness, constitutes an aggregate of

good
lief.

sufficient to call forth exertion

for their re-

The

time

is

rapidly coming,

when

christian

benevolence

will

emulate the activity and perse-

verance, which have long been displayed in commercial enterprizes

;

when no country

will

remain

unexplored by the heralds of the cross, where immortal souls are shrouded in the darkness of heathenism, and are perishing for lack of vision,

The

wandering and benighted sons of our

own

forests.

PREFACE.
shall not

XU1

be overlooked.

They

are not a race

destruction

abandoned by God, to

inevitable

though the idea has, strangely, gotten possession of

some minds.

In proportion to the

efforts

which

have been made, perhaps no missions to the heathen have been crowned with greater success,
than those to the American Aborigines.
fact,

To

this

the fruit of the labours of Elliott, of the

and, es-

Mayhews, of Brainerd, of the Moravians,

pecially, of the

recent establishment

among

the

Cherokees,

will

bear abundant witness.

is

The
in this

Indian tribes, whose condition

unfolded

work, have claims upon christian compas-

sion;

and some

facts,

which the authour has

dis-

closed to me, have led

me

to suppose, that a mis-

sionary establishment might be

made, with
fair

ref-

erence to their instruction, with a

prospect

of success, and with less expense, than ordinarily

attends such operations.

In the numerous establishments of the North

West Company,
hundred

there are from twelve to fifteen

children,

women and

who

are wholly, or

in part, of Indian extraction.

Women have,
among the

from

time to time, been taken from

Natives.

XIV

PREFACE.

to reside in the forts,

by the men

in

the service

of the

company

and families have been reared,

left in

which have generally been

the country,

when

these

men have

retired to the civilized parts

children, with a

of the world.

These women and

humanity which deserves commendation, are not

turned over to the savages
;

but they are fed,

if

not clothed, by the company.

They have become

to

so numerous, as to be a burden

the concern
in

and a rule has been established, that no person,

the service of the company, shall hereafter take a

woman from among

the

Natives to

reside with

him, as a sufficient number, of a mixed blood, can

be found, who are already connected with the

company.

There

are, also, in the

N.

W.

country,

many superannuated Canadians, who have spent

the flower of their days in the service of the com-

pany,
leave
;

who have

families that they are unwilling to

and having nothing to attract them to the

world, they continue under the protec-

civilized

tion of the

company, and are supplied by them,

life.

with the necessaries of

plan has been

in

contemplation, to provide

for the future

maintenance of these people, and

PREFACE.
for the relief of the

XV
increasing

Company from an

burden, which

is,

to establish a settlement
soil is

on the

Rainy Lake River, where the

excellent, to
resort.

which the people, above mentioned, may

To

enable them to

make

a beginning, in the cultierection of mills,

vation of the

land, and in the

&c. the

Company propose

to give

them

fifteen

or twenty thousand dollars, and to appoint one of

the Partners to superintend the

affairs

of the setif it

tlement, for three years, or for a longer time,

shall
It

be necessary.
appears highly probable, that a settlement
in

might thus be formed, which,

secure to those

few years, would

it,

who

should belong to

the com;

forts of life, as the fruit of their

own industry

and

should they prosper, so far as to raise

a supply

beyond
al

their

own

necessities,

it

might, with mutu-

advantage, be disposed of to the Company.

The

Partners and Clerks of the North

in

West

Company, who are

as

the Indian country, as well

reside in Canada, and elsedollars,

some of these who

where, have subscribed several thousand

toward the establishment of a school, either

the Rainy Lake, or at Fort William, for the

at
in-

Xvi

PREFACE.

struction of the children, connected with their es-

tablishments.

Some

of these children are the

their

off-

spring of parents,

who survey

comparative

degradation, with the deep interest of a strong

natural affection,

who

are able to bear the

ex-

pense of their education, and

ly contribute, in this

who would

cheerful-

way, to raise them to increas-

ed respectability, comfort and usefulness.

this school

Should

be established, such persons would be

required to support their children,

long to
it
;

who

should be-

while the children of the poor, would

be taught gratuitously.

These
pect, to

facts
I

have opened

to

my mind

a pros-

which

wish to direct the eye of chrisI

tian benevolence.
est,

would

ask, with

deep

interis

some one of the

institutions,

whose object

the diffusion of civilization and Christianity

among

the Indian tribes, whether a missionary establish-

ment might not be formed,

in

concert with the

North West Company, which would, with much

less trouble

and even expense to them, accomplish

the object which the

Company have

in

view, than

any establishment which they could independently

make

and which would, at the same time, have

PREFACE.
a most auspicious bearing upon
terests of the tribes of the N.

XVII

the

religious in-

W.

Country.

school for the instruction of children in the

arts of life,

and

in

the rudiments of science, as well

as in the principles of the christian religion,

forms

the basis of the most efficient missionary exertions

among the
okees,
is

Indians.

The

school

among

the Cher-

a most interesting object to christian be;

nevolence

and as the
still
is

fruit of

it,

the light of

sci-

ence, and the

brighter light

of the Sun of

Righteousness,

shedding a cheering radiance

over many minds, that would otherwise have been

shrouded

in intellectual

and moral darkness.

The
among

school has received the unqualified approbation of

men

of

all

descriptions

who have

visited

it,

whom
were
N,

are

many persons

of the most distinguished

If such a school

character and rank

in civil life.

established, at

a convenient
as

place in the

W.

Country,

it

would be
region,

the day spring

from on high
intellectual

to a

now overspread by an

and moral midnight.

as the
in

Men, occupied

gentlemen of the North

the overwhelmina; cares
it

West Company

are,

of a vast commercial concern, would find 3

diffi-

XV111

PREFACE.

cult to

bestow

all

that attention on a school for

the instruction of the children and youth,

their establishments,

now

in
it

whom

they might think

proper to educate, which would be necessary

secure
its

to

proper management.
off their hands,

Could

this

care

be entirely taken

by men of known

and approved characters, acting under a responsibility to

some respectable
all

society

by men who

would

feel

the interests which christian bein

nevolence can create

the welfare

of the chilit

dren and youth committed to their care,

does

appear to me, that they would gladly cooperate

with them.

As the North West Company from motives

interest, as
tions,

of

well as from

more noble considerato the

would contribute something

it

support
their ap-

of such an establishment, should

probation, the expense of
less to
it

meet

would, of course, be

the society that should

is

embark

in

the un-

dertaking, than

commonly

incurred, in establish-

ments of

this sort.

The

children

and youth above

in

mentioned,
life, in

might be instructed

the arts of civilized

science and in Christianity, with

much greater

ease

PREFACE,

Xix
if

than the children of the Natives, even

could as easily be obtained
;

they

and when instructed,

they would be equally promising, as the instru-

ments of spreading
the gospel,

civilization

and the religion of

tribes.

among the Indian

They have

always been habituated to a

ure settled
;

life, in

a great meas-

and they would, therefore, endure

confinement, better than children

who have

lived

among
ly

the wandering savages.

They

are partial-

civilized,

by an intercourse with those, who

feel-

have carried into the wilderness many of the

ings

and habits of civilized society.

They would

not be liable to be
time, from the place

withdrawn, at an improper
of their education, by the
parents.

whims and caprice of unstable

same time^ being
familiarly

At the

acquainted with the

manners and customs and

feelings of the savages,

by a frequent intercourse with them, being able

to

speak their languages, and having some of the

in their veins,

Indian blood circulating

they would,

when

properly instructed, be as well qualified to

gain access to the Natives, and to have influence

over them, as
directly

if

they had originally been taken,

families.

from their

XX

PREFACE.

As this establishment could probably be made,

with the greatest convenience, within the British
dominions,
it

might, perhaps, be undertaken with

the surest prospect of success, by some society in

Great

Britain.

The

Society in Scotland for Pro-

pagating

Christian

Knowledge

has,

heretofore,

contributed to the support of missionaries

among

the American Indians;

willing to

and might, perhaps, be

undertaking.

engage

in this

The

Socie-

ty in Massachusetts for Propagating the

Gospel

among the

Indians of
I

North America
in

has, in

some

instances, if

mistake not, acted

concert with
;

the Society in Scotland,

above mentioned
it,

and

might, perhaps, conveniently do

in this instance.

Every

association,

however, who may become acwill

quainted with the facts here disclosed,

be able

themselves, to judge most correctly, of their

resources, and of their
liam, on

own

own

duty.

At

Fort Wil-

Lake Superior,

a very considerable

num-

ber of the partners of the North

West Company

assemble annually, about the middle of June, at

which meeting, many important arrangements are

made, respecting the business of the Company.

At such a meeting, an agent from some benevo-

PREFACE.
lent

xxi
feelings, in

association,

might ascertain their

I

regard to such an establishment as

have proposed.

The

Aborigines of America, are capable of be-

ing exalted in the scale of existence, and of arriving,

even

at

eminence,

in

the

arts

and sciences.
is

The

native oratory of

some of them,

proverbial

in civilized countries,

and has caused them to be

enrolled

among

the sons of genius.

Many

of

them

afford proof, that they possess acute

and compre-

hensive minds
pacity
is

and as a people, their mental caNor, perhaps, can

certainly respectable.

a people be found on the earth

who

are not rais-

ed above them by superior cultivation and means

of improvement,
feeling,

who

possess greater elevation of

and

who appear more

majestick

in ruins.

Their virtues and their vices

ignoble minds.

too, are not those of

Let

their

condition be improved
their

by the

arts of civilized

life,

minds be en-

lightened by science, and their hearts be softened

by the genial influence of

will

Christianity,

and they
nations.

assume a respectable rank among the

Could we hear some of their superior geniuses unfold to their

countrymen the wonderful scheme of

XXII

PREFACE.
brilliancy

redeeming mercy, with the

and pathos,

which have characterised some of their speeches,

on the interests of their
tribes,

with

a brilliancy,

rendered more splendid by cultivation, and a pathos,

made doubly tender by the

softening influto

ence of the gospel,

who would

not listen
?

them

with admiration and with pleasure

Might we

not hope that, by the blessing of God, they would

be made the honoured and happy instruments, of

turning

many

of their countrymen, from the errour

of their ways to the wisdom of the just.

Could

numbers of them be brought

to concert

plans for

the extension of the gospel, in the

tern wilds, with the
skill,

North Wes-

and to execute them

with the fortitude and perseverance, which they

display in warring upon each other, the happiest
results

might be expected.
the suggestions here

Whether

made deserve

consideration or not, I

cheerfully submit to the

those, for

wisdom and benevolence of

whom

they

were especially intended.

Such has been

my

own view

of the importance of the subject here

I

presented, that

should have charged myself with

PREFACE.
a culpable neglect,
if I

XXlll

had

failed to

improve

this

opportunity, to hold
christian publick.

it

up

to the

attention of the

DANIEL HASKEL.
Burlington, Vt. August 2, 1820.

JOURNAL.

April, 1800.
Tuesday, 29.

La

Chine.

Yesterday,

left

Montreal, for
other Clerks
;

this place, in corn pan j

with severat

and

am on my way

to the interiour,
if

or Indian countries, there

to remain,

my

life

should be spared, for seven years, at least.

this

For
oth-

space of time

am

under an engagement to

serve as a clerk to the North

West Company,

erwise denominated McTavish, Frobisher,

&

Co.

The

goods intended for the interiour or upper

countries, are here put on boacd of canoes.

These
and an

canoes which are constructed of the bark of the

birch tree, will carry a burden of three
half or four tons each
;

and are severally manned

by

eight or nine Canadians,

who

are said to man-

26

kiARMON'S JOURNAL.

age them with greater dexterity, than any other

people.

Wednesday, 30.
ing.

Point

Claire.

Rainy even-

For the
in

first

time

in

my

life, I

am

to pass

the night
day,
I

a tent.

In the
in

former part of the

was employed
to be

marking bales of goods,

the Grand Portage or About 12 o'clock, I emfor

which are

sent

to

General Rendezvous.

barked on board of one of the canoes, destined

the above mentioned place.
ron,

The whole
is

squad-

which

consits of thirty canoes,

divided into
or Pilots are
is,

three .brigades.

One
best

or

two Guides
up

attached to each brigade.

point

Their business
and

to

out the

course

down
to

the

streams

and
of the

through the lakes, and

canoes

take

charge

and property on board.

They
mand
the

attend to the repairs of the canoes, which

are frequently broken, and have the

same comhas, over

over the men, attached to their respective

brigades, as the

commander

of a vessel

men

on board.

The

Voyagers, as the

men

many of the customs of sailors the following. them By all those on and among
are called, have

board,

who have never

passed certain places, they

expect to be treated with something to drink;

and should a person refuse to comply with their requisitions, he would be sure of being plunged
into the water,

which they profanely

call,

baptiz-

Dsf

Harmon's journal.
ing him.

27
I

people of
porter,

To my

avoid such a disaster,

gave the
and

canoe a few bottles of

spirits

by drinking which, they became very merry, and exhibited the reverse of their appearance a few days since, when, with heavy hearts and
relations.

weeping eyes, they parted from their

Shortly after

we had

pitched

our tents,

an Irish

gentleman, whose house was near the margin of

the water, politely invited
him.

me

to

take tea with

Friday,

May

2.

Chute au Blondeau.
wind.

We
most

have a strong head

morning,

But, since yesterday

nearly sixty miles, and

we have come

have passed two Rapids.

At these

places,

of the property was taken out of the canoes, and

carried across the Portages, on the backs of the people.

the

The young men, who had never been in Indian countries, now began to regret that
this service,

they had enlisted into

which requires
country, they

them, as they say, to carry burdens like horses,

when, by remaining
might have laboured
Sunday,
4.

in their

own

like

men.
has been so high, during

The wind

the whole of the day, that

the water.
I

we

could not go upon

in

have therefore passed the time

reading, and in the society of a fellow-clerk.

Monday,

5.

We

are

now about one hundred

This
afternoon.,

and twenty miles from Montreal.

2a

Harmon's journal.

our people killed a deer, with their setting poles,

as

he was crossing the

Tuesday,
6.

river.

The

three

Kettles.

In the

for-

mer
fall,

part of the day,

we

passed a beautiful water-

River,

where the Riviere au Rideau, or Curtain falls into this, which is the Ottawa River.
is

The former
water
falls

ten or twelve rods

wide, and the

perpendicularly, about forty feet, prelittle distance-,

senting at a

an appearance at once
are

pleasing and grand.

We
is

now about one hun;

dred and Mty miles from Montreal

each side of the river
appears to be good.
passed us this evening,
ourselves, to the

the land on

very

level,
c

and the

soil

William
in a light

M Gilvray,

Esq.

canoe, bound like

Grand Portage.

Thursday,

8.

Au

Chat.

We now,

for the first

time, see Indian huts or tents.

Friday, 9.
place,

We
;

arrived this

morning, at this
a

where the North West Company have

and
I

small establishment

have passed the

after-

noon, in shooting pigeons.

Saturday, 10.

Grand Calumet.
;

This Portit,

age
ple

is,

nearly two miles long

and 6ver
and

the peoloading.

carry

both the

canoes

their

Here

stands a house, built

traffick

by those who came

;

here to

with the Indians

but which has the Indians,

been abandoned

for several years, as

in this vicinity,

who

formerly hunted

are

now gone

Harmon's journal.
farther north,

29
in

where Beaver, &c. are found

Behind
this house,
I

greater plenty.

found a small

bark canoe,
purpose

in

which

embarked

alone, for the

of shooting ducks.

Having proceeded
overset,

some distance from the shore, the canoe

and
I fell,

with

my
it

gun, into the

water.

Having
difficulty

my

great coat on,

I

was with no small

;

that

reached the shore

and

was happy

to es-

cape, with the loss of only

my

gun.
Island
arriv-

Sunday, 11.
opposite to

encamped on an Fort Coulonge. Soon after we

are
to invite a fellow-clerk,

We

ed here, the person who

in

has the establishment

charge,

came

who

trav-

els in

the same canoe with me, and myself, to sup

I

with him, to which

readily agreed

but

my ComI

panion chose to remain with the canoes.

treated with
all

was

the politeness of which a Canadiis

an

is

master, which

not a

little

for

in

this, as

well as in

many other
12.

respects, the

Canadians re-

semble their ancestors, the French.

Monday,
sand bank.
I

We

are

encamped on

a large

have had a

little

conversation with

my

fellow-traveller, respecting his conduct the last

evening, while
for the Fort, I

was absent.

When

departed

gave him the keys of our travelling

and on

box and basket, that he might have the means of

making a supper
little

my

return,

was not a

surprised at finding not only him, but several of

30
the

Harmon's journal.

common

labourers,

much

intoxicated.

I repri-

manded Mr.
in

P. with considerable severity, to day,

if I

and told him, that

should ever again find him

I

the like shameful condition,

should be under

the disagreeable necessity of informing our employers of his conduct, as soon as

we
;

should reach

Head-quarters.

He

promised that he would not

but
I

again be guilty of such conduct

should

place more reliance on his promise, had not his

mother been a squaw.

temperance.

There seems

to

be

in

the
in-

blood of an Indian, a kind of predisposition to

We barter with the

We
is

natives, receiv-

ing sugar for buscuit, of which, as well as of pork,

beef and
fond.

spirits,

they appear to be uncommonly

Tuesday, 13.
bank, where
it

are

encamped on
to find

a rocky

impossible
to

a smooth
;

place, sufficiently large

pitch a tent

we

are
T

therefore obliged to

make our bed between tw o

open
air.

large rocks, and sleep in the

On

the

north side of the river are mountains, which ap-

pear almost destitute of timber, of any kind.

Wednesday, 14.

We

shall again sleep

where
the

we

did last night, as the people have been employ-

ed, during the

whole of the day,

in repairing

canoes, which had

become leaky.
Roche Capitaine Portage.
This
a large rock, that rises

Thursday, 15.

Portage

is

so

named from

Harmon's journal.
to a considerable height

31
in

above the water,

the

middle of the rapid.

During the day, we have

difficult

come
up

up

several

ones,

where many
in

persons

have been drowned,

either

coming

or going down.

For every such unfortunate

corpse
is

person,
cross
is

whether

his

found or not,

erected by his companions, agreeably to a

custom of the
I

Roman
It

Catholics

and
This

at this place,
is

see no less than fourteen.

leads

melanfol-

choly sight.
ly

me
man,

to reflect on the

and temerity of
in

which

cause him to

press on

the path, that has conducted so

many

of his fellow creatures, prematurely to the grave.

Thus

in

hope of gaining a
season,

little

money, which can

minister but imperfectly to our comfort, and that,

during a short
death.

we expose

ourselves to

Friday, 16.

Came up

a rapid where, a

few

years since, two canoes, in going down, were broken,

and several men were drowned

see more crosses erected.
Saturday, 17.

therefore,

we

Roderick

M Kenzie, Esq. agent

c

for the

North West Company, passed

is

us,

who,
to

with those that accompany him,

the

on his

way

Grand Portage.
Sunday, 18.

The Lazy Portage.

This day

we left the Ottawa River on our right hand, and came up a small river, that falls into it. A-

22
bout noon, high
hill.

Harmon's journal.

we passed
This cave,

a
I

cave, in the side of a

am

told,

is

spacious

but

we were
ing
it.

in too
I

great haste, to permit

my

examin-

This

was the more

inclined to do, as I

many remarkable stories respecting it and among others, that a large animal remains in it, which they call a Maneater, and which devours all those, who have the
told that the natives relate
;

am

presumption to approach the entrance, of

tary dwelling,^

his soli-

Monday,
bad rapids
as to
;

19.

The Pines.

Came up
The banks

several
far,

but have been so fortunate, thus

disaster.

meet with no

on each

side of the river, for

a considerable distance, are

;

a perfect natural wall, formed of smooth stones

and are about one hundred feet high.

Tuesday, 20.
ing the

La

Vase, or Miry-place.

Dur-

whole of

this day,

we have been

crossing

ponds, and small lakes.

Wednesday, 21.

After coming over a number

of short portages, and crossing several ponds, and

descending a small river, at the source of which

a height of land,
place, called the

is

we have

at length

arrived at a

Meadows, which

constitutes the
is

north end of Lake Nipisangue,

or, as it

com-

monly written, Nippising.

Indians,

Here we
in

find several

who appear

to

be

poor circumstances.

We, however,

obtain from

them

little

sugar,

Harmon's journal.

33

and a few wooden dishes and spoons, for which

give

we

them

provisions.

Thursday, 22.

Sailed a part of the day, on

;

the above mentioned lake

but,

towards noon, the

to

wind was so high, that we were obliged

on a small island,

encamp

which

is

almost destitute of

wood.

jH
The
lost Child.

Friday, 23.
its

This place took

Seve-

name from the

following circumstance.

ral

years since, the natives, being encamped here,

lost a child, for

whom

they made diligent search,

but

in vain.

They

imagined, however, that they

heard

his lamentations in the

bowels of the earth;

digging,

whereupon they commenced

purpose
;

but to no

the reason of which they conceived to be,

that the Devil, or

Bad

Spirit,

as

he

is

called by

the Indians,

was continually carrying him from one

place to another, in the earth.

Many

large holes

have actually been dug

ple

in

the earth, as our peo-

have shown me.

In the morning

we

left

Lake Nipisangue, and

have ever since been descending the French River,

which

is

a considerable stream.

In the latter part of the day,

we passed

a nar-

row place

in

the French River, to which, a num-

ber of years since,

many

of the

most abandoned

and savage Natives were accustomed to resort

every spring, and where they built a kind of Fort,

5

34
or stone wall,
this,

Harmon's journal.

which

is

still

to

be seen.
;

Behind

these villains secreted themselves

and,

when

the voyagers were passing by, discharged volleys

of shot into their canoes, and of course, as the distance

was small,

killed

many

of them.

They
off

would then rush from

their hiding

place, and fall

upon and butcher the remainder, and go

a
distant
sort

with
into

the plunder, which they had thus seized,

part
of the
country.

But the

betjoin

ter

of their

countrymen, would not

them in such barbarous and unprovoked hostilities. At length the good Indians, who were well disposed towards the white people from Canada, pronounced these murderers a nuisance to society, and

made war upon them, them were destroyed.

until

the greater part of

that survived,

The few

retired into a distant part of the country,

and no-

thing has since been heard, respecting them.

friendly Indians, for their exertions
in

The
re-

extirpating

their

unworthy

relations,

were handsomely

warded by the North West Company.

The Canadian

Voyagers, when they leave one

stream to go up or down another, have a custom

of pulling off their hats, and making the sign of the
cross,

upon which one

in

each canoe, or at

least, in

each brigade, repeats a short prayer.

The same
interred, and

ceremonies are observed by them, whenever they

pass a place,

where any one has been

Harmon's journal.
a cross has been erected.

36

Those, therefore, who

are in the habit of voyaging this way, are obliged

to say their

prayers more
;

frequently

perhaps,

when at home for at almost every rapid which we have passed, since we left Montreal, we have seen a number of crosses erected;
than

and

at one, I

counted no

less

than thirty

It is

truly melancholy,
flect

and discouraging, seriously to re-

on the great number of

my

fellow creatures,

who have been brought to an untimely end, by voyaging this way, as I know not but I shall myself, also,

be doomed to the same watery grave. With such dismal spectacles, however, almost continually before our eyes, we press forward, with
all

the ardour and rashness of youth, in the same

dangerous path, stimulated by the hopes of gratifying the eye, and of securing a
little

gold.
find

Saturday, 24.

Lake Huron.

We
in

on the

shore of this lake, low Cranberries,

dance.

great abun-

Sunday, 25.
it

The wind
are

has been so high, that the greater part

island, of

has prevented us from

sailing,

of the day.

We

encamped on an
in

which there are many

them,
it
is

this

lake.

On

one of

reported, that the Natives killed a

snake, which measured thirty six feet in length.

The

length and size of this astonishing serpent,

they have engraved on a large smooth rock, which

36

Harmon's journal.
saw, as

we

we

passed by.

But we have often

seen other

engravings, on the rocks, along the

rivers and lakes, of

many

different kinds of animals,

some of which,
in
this

am

told, are

not

now

to

be found,

part of the

world, and probably never

existed.

Wednesday, 28.

Island

of

St.

Joseph.

To

this place the British troops

tification,

came and

built a for-

when

the Americans took possession of

Michilimackinack.
Captain,

There are
fort
is
is

stationed here one

one Lieutenant, one Ensign and thirty

nine privates.
rise

The

built

on a beautiful

of ground, which

joined to the main island

by

narrow neck of

land.

As

it is

not long since

a settlement was

made

here, they have only four

dwelling houses and two stores, on the other parts

of the peninsula
exiles.
;

and the inhabitants appear like

a house

The North West Company have

the interiour, and

and store here.

Montreal.
then,

In the latter, they construct ca-

noes, for sending into

down

to

Vessels,

of about

sixty

tons

bur-

come here from Detroit and Mackana and Soult St. Maries. The whole island is computed
to

be about twenty miles

is

in

circumference

the

soil

good

it

is

distant, nearly nine

hundred

miles from Montreal, and forty five from

na,

Macka-

and

is in

Lat. 47 North.

Spirits are sold here

Harmon's journal.
for six dollars a gallon
;

37
in
r

and other things,

*

the

same proportion.
Thursday, 29.

Duncan

Gilvray, Esq. one

West Company, arrived in the morning, at St. Josephs, from Mackana and soon after, we embarked on board of our x4s the canoes, to come to this small Island.
of the agents for the North

weather
tend

is

calm,

my

fellow-traveller and
;

in-

sleeping in our canoe

but the labourers

will pass the night

on shore.
Soult
St.

Friday,

30.

Maries.

Here the
establish;

North West Company have another

ment, on the north side of the
the opposite shore, there are a

and on Rapid few Americans,

Scotch and Canadians,

fic

who

carry on a small traftill

with the Natives, and also

the ground a

lit-

tle.

The
is

soil

about Lake Huron, which

we have
West

just passed,

appears to be good, and the face of the

level.

country

low and

Here
in

the North

Company have

built locks,

order to take up
not be under the

loaded canoes, that they

necessity of carrying

may

them by

land, to the

head of

Rapid for the current is too strong to be stemmed by any craft. The Company are likethe
;

wise building a saw mill, at the foot of the Rapid,

to furnish boards,

&c. for the Grand Portage, &c.

Here

is

the outlet of

waters pass into

Lake Superiour, by which its Lake Huron. On each of these

38
lakes, the

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

North West Company have a

to the

vessel.

One goes

Grand Portage, and the other

to

Detroit, &c.

Saturday, 31.

We

shall

sleep

where we did

the last night.

people,

Several of us have visited the

other side of the rapid,
of the Natives,

who live on the where we saw a dance

Sauteux or Chippeways.
Sunday, June,
in
1.

who

are

Point au Pin, or Pine Point,

Lake Superiour.
from
this to the

We

here find the vessel that

I

sails

Grand Portage.
five

went on

board, and the Captain informed me, that she

would carry about ninety

tons,

and that she

I left

makes four

or five trips every season.

the

Soult St. Maries, in

company with three hundred

canoes.

men, who are

in thirty five

Monday,
Point.

2.

Point aux Erables, or Maple

four Brigades, in which

We

now form
3.

there are six clerks.

Tuesday,
day.

high wind during the whole

In the morning,

we attempted

to

sail,

but

soon found we could

deal of water
;

not,

without shipping a great

we

therefore soon landed again,

and are encamped, within one

the place where

hundred rods of

we

tarried the last night.

Wednesday, 4.
all

As

it

has rained and snowed

day, accompanied by a high wind,

we have

not
last

been able to leave our encampment of the

Harmon's journal.
night.

39

Mons.

St.

Germain, who has the charge

of a small Fort, belonging to the North

West

Company, not far from this, with him a few necessaries.

Thursday,
are very high,
ing the
5.

visited us,

and brought

Although the swells

in

the

Lake

we have made good

progress, dur-

whole day.

We

are

encamped near a
as

large rock, on
this

which the Natives,

value
to

they pass

way, leave an arrow or two, or some other

of
little

article

appease the Devil, or

him, and prevent him

Muchamunatoo, as they from doing them harm.

Sunday,
8.

call

In the course of the day,

we have
besides

passed several islands, which, as well as the main

land,

appear to be covered with

In the morning

little else

moss, with here and there a shrubby spruce.

Monday,

9.

er Fort, belonging to the North

we passed anothWest Company.

Tuesday, 10.

We

are obliged to anchor our

canoes by a small island, instead of unloading them,

as
is

customary every night, for the whole counon

fire
;

try
I

is

but whether by accident or design,

am

unable to learn.

Our

people,

who

pass this

way every summer,

fire

say that, almost every year,

is.

runs over this part of the country, which

of course, nearly destitute of animals, of any kind.

Thursday, 12.

Sugar Point.

Our people

say

we have

sailed ninety miles during the day.

40
Friday^ Y3.

Harmon's journal.

Grand Portage, where we

This place
;

arriv-

ed

late this evening.

lies in

the 48th

degree of north latitude

eighteen

and

is

said

to

be nine

hundred miles from the Soult St Maries, and

hundred from Montreal.
twenty four rods by
thirty,

The
is

Fort,

which
tain,

is

built

on

the margin of a bay, at the foot of a

hill

or mounfort,

of considerable
is

height.

Within the

there

a considerable
all

number of dwelling
for

houses,

shops and stores,

of which appear to be slight

buildings, and designed only ience.

present conven-

The

houses are surrounded by palisades,

in

which are about eighteen inches

about fifteen feet above

diameter, and

are sunk nearly three feet in the ground, and rise

it.

The bay
There
to the

is

so shallow

that the vessel cannot approach the

shore, unless
is

she

is

almost without lading.

a conside-

rable island, directly opposite

fort,

which

shelters the vessel from the winds that blow from

the

Lake

and Avhich renders

this,

a tolerably

There is also another fort, which stands about two hundred rods from this, belonging to the X. Y. Company, under which firm, a number of merchants of Montreal and Quebec,
good harbour.
&c.

now

carry on a trade into this part of the

It is only

country.

three years since they nrade

:

an establishment here
but
little success.

and as yet, they have had

Harmon's journal.

41

This

is

the

dezvous, for

all

Head Quarters or General Renwho trade in this part of the

world

and therefore, every summer, the greater

part of the Proprietors and Clerks,

the winter
furs
in

who have spent

the Interiour,

come here with the

to collect, during
I

which they have been able

This, as

the preceding season. the time of

am

told,
;

is

about

when they

generally arrive
here.-.

and some

them are already

this,

The
who

people

who come

from Montreal with the goods, go no farther

than
excepting a few
take those articles
for
to the

Rainy Lake, which are intended

permit people

Atha-

basca, as that place lies at

too great a distance

from

this, to

who

reside there to

come

to this place

and return, before the winter

commences.

Those who bring the goods from

Montreal, on their return, take

down

the furs, &c.

from the north.

Excellent
fish, I

am

informed, are taken here.

White
lake
is

fish

are sometimes speared, which will

weigh twenty two pounds.

The water

in

the

uncommonly
in

clear.

Sunday, 15.
bath,

The

people here pass the sab-

much

the same manner as they do, the

other days of the week.

The

labouring people
in

have been employed, during the day,

making and
This

pressing packs of furs, to be sent to Canada.

appears, not as

it

should be, to me,

6

who have been

42

Harmon's journal,

taught to abstain form labour on the sabbath, and to

consider that
it

should be employed
people, however,

in a

religious

manner.
long

The

who have been

in this

savage country, have no scruples of

conscience on this subject.

Tuesday, 24.

have, for some days past, been

in

employed, together with several other clerks,

marking packs of furs. Almost every day,

time
past,

for
in

some
from

people

have

been flocking

the Interiour, with the returns of the season.

Saturday, 28.

The

last

night, a

squaw,

in a

state of intoxication, stabbed her husband,

who
to

soon after expired.

their tent,

This afternoon,

went

where

saw

number of
offer

Indians, of

both sexes, drinking and crying over the corpse,

to
to

which they would frequently

pour

rum, and try

fond

down his of rum when

it

throat, supposing

him

to

be

as

dead, as he was

when

alive.

The

Natives of this place are Chippeways.

4.

Friday, July

In the day time, the Natives

were permitted
shrub. In the

to

dance

in

the

fort,

and the Comsix gallons

pany made them a present of thirty

evening, the

of

gentlemen of the

place dressed, and

dining room.

we had
flute,

a famous ball, in the

For musick, we had the bag-pipe,

which added much
to

the violin and the

the interest of the occasion.

At the

ball,

there
;

was a number

of the ladies of this country

and

iiarmon's journal.
I

43

was surprised

to

find

that they could conduct

with so

much
way
is

propriety, and dance so well.

Sunday,
on their

13.

Yesterday, several

gentlemen,

to their winter quarters, accompani-

ed

me

to Charlotte, at the other

end of

this Port-

age,

which

nine

miles over.

My

business

was

to send off a

number of

canoes, bound for Fort

des Prairies.
Charlotte,
to.

The

country between this and Fort

;

is

tolerably level

and the

soil

appears

be pretty good.
Tuesday, 15.

This morning a number of gen-

tlemen, as well as myself, left the

to

Grand Portage,

proceed to winter quarters.

am

to

accompa-

ny John

M
is

c Donald,

Esq. to Fort des Prairies.

We

left fort Charlotte,

about 3 o'clock P. M. on board

of two canoes, each of which will carry about two

tons,

and

pushed on by
;

six

Canadians.

This

is

small river

and

we have

passed several places,

where the men were obliged to carry the ladings, a short distance, and in some places, to transport the canoes also.

Wednesday, 16.
the former

The long Cherry Portage.

In

part of the day,

we

crossed small

lakes and ponds, connected by several portages,

and then came over the height of land.

passing
this,
I

Since

we have descended

a small river,

which,

am

informed, after running through sevedischarges itself into

ral lakes,

at length

Hud-

44
son's

HARMON'S JOURNAL.
Bay,
in

latitude 51 north.

At the mouth
a fort,

of this river, the

Hudson Bay Company have

Albany Factory.
Great Pines.

which

is

called

Friday, 18.

We

have

this

day

crossed the Flinty Lake, so

found on

its

shore.

named For some time

from the stones,

past,
I

have
It

had a
and,

fit

of the ague
I

and fever, every day.

commenced when
I

was crossing the large Lakes

it is

am

told, that
it,

seldom that a person

I

is

attacked with

in

the region where

last

Monday,

21.

For the

now am. few days, we have

been crossing small lakes and ponds, and coming

down

a small river.
lies

The

country appear^ thinly

soil is

timbered,

rather low, and the

good.

Tuesday, 22.

This evening, there came here

Iroquois,

three canoes,

manned by

who

are going

into the vicinity of the upper

Red

River, to hunt

Beaver, for the North West Company.

Some
This

of

them have
built

their families with them.

24.

Thursday,

Rainy Lake Fort

is

about a mile and an half

down

the river,
is

from the entrance of the Lake, where there

a considerable
fall.

Here
since
also,

the
left

soil is

better than

any
er.

we have seen, The timber,

we
is

the

Ottawa Rivsize.

of a very good

The Lake and River

fish,

are said to contain excellent

In the vicinis

such as sturgeon, white-fish, &c.

ity,

a considerable quantity of wild rice

gather-

Harmon's journal,
ed,
is

45
This

by the Natives, who are Chippeways.

and almost
is

thought to be nearly as nourishing as the real

as palatable.

rice,

The

kernel of the

former,
is

rather longer than that of the latter, and

of a brownish colour.

Friday, 25.

In the former part of the day,

we overtook
selves,

several gentlemen, who, like our-

are on their

way

to their winter quarters.

This

is

a beautiful river,

and pretty free from

rapids.

we met twenty They say they suffour canoes from Athabasca. and fered much for want of food, on their way
Saturday, 26.

This morning,

during four days, ate nothing.

We

gave them

dram, which made them almost forget their late

sufferings.

They
28.

will arrive at the

Rainy Lake,

later than usual.

Monday,
last year,

We

have come down several

rapids, at one of

which a canoe was broken, the

and a

man drowned.
river,

We

are

still

in

the Rainy

Lake

which

is

about one hundred

fifteen rods
is

and twenty miles long, and twelve or

broad.
to

The

land on each side

is

low, and

said

be

excellent.

The

timber consists of birch, a

poplar,
aspin,

species of pine,

hemlock,

cedar.

&c.

Tuesday, 29.

This day
is full

we came
of islands.

across
It is

the

Woody

Lake, which

about

46

Harmon's journal.
;

thirty six miles in length

and the

soil

about

it

much

like

that,
in

along the Rainy Lake River.

We
a

are

now

Winipick River, and have passed

rapid where the last year, three

men were
black bear,

drowned.
but did not

One
kill

of our

men
N

fired at a

him.
30.

Wednesday,

Passed a number of miry

Portages, and a place where, three years since,

the Natives,

who

are Chippeways, fired upon our

people, but without killing any of them.

One

of

the Indians was taken, with the intention of carrying him to the nearest Fort, and there

punishing

him as he deserved.

After proceeding a consid-

erable distance, however, and

when near
as

a rapid,

he jumped out of the canoe, intending,

posed, to

was sup-

swim to the opposite shore, and thus esand he But the current was too strong cape. probably drowned* was rapid, and the down went Thursday, 31. Mouth of the River Winipick. Here the North West Company, and the Hudson Bay Company, have each a fort. Here the above named river discharges its waters into Lake Win;

ipick.

The River
its

W inipick,
7

through the greater

part of

course,

is

a succession of small lakes

and

in several places

there are

falls,

of a consideit

rable height.

The

country around

is

broken

and occasionally, majestick

are
to

and

frightful waterfalls

be seen, particularly where the White

Harmon's journal.

47
above where
this,

River

joins this, about thirty miles

are.

we now

few miles above

rout,

there

is

small lake, called

Lac de Bonne, from which the

and proceed
;

Hudson Bay people leave our

to-

ward -the Albany Factory. The soil is good among the fruit, I observe the red plum. The
grape, also, grows well in this vicinity.

and

In the neigh-

bouring woods, a few moose and deer are found;

and the Lake and River are well supplied with

fish.

Our

people

are employed in
in

drying the

goods some of which were wet,

the rapids, yesterday.

coming down
the Grand

Saturday , August
Portage,
it

2.

When
I

left

was expected that

to

should go up the

Sisiscatchwin river,

spend the winter.

That

river falls into the north western

end of Lake

Winipick.

But, since our arrival

here,

we have

received intelligence from the

partment, which country

ipich and the

lies

Swan River Debetween Lake Winrivers,

Red

and Assiniboin

that* in

the opinion of Mr.

M Leod, who
c

superintends the

concerns of that region,

it

is

necessary to
It is

make
it

another establishment there.

therefore de-

termined that
and
I

shall

go and take charge of

shall accordingly

remain here a few days,

brigade, destined to

to wait for the arrival of the

the

Swan River department.

I

The

after

part of
I

the day,

spent in shooting pigeons, which

found

48
to

Harmon's journal.

be numerous, as at

this season,

red raspberries,

and other kinds of

in

fruit,

are ripe, and exist here

abundance.
Sunday,
3.

In walking in the adjacent coun-

try, I

saw the bushes and brambles loaded with

ripe fruit.
reflect

While partaking of

it,

was led

to

on the beneficence of the great Authour of

nature,

who

scatters his favours with an unsparing

in

hand, and spreads a table here

the wilderness,

for the refreshment of his creatures.

This
since

is

the

first

day which

have ever spent,

either bread or

my

infancy, without eating

biscuit.

As

a substitute for bread,

we now make
fine,

use of what the Natives call pimican^ which consists

of lean

meat, dried and pounded

fat.

and
is

then mixed with melted

This compound

put into bags, made of the skins of the buffaloe,

&c. and

when

cold,

it
it

becomes a
will continue
it

solid body.

If

kept
But,

in
if

a dry place,

good for years.

soon become
is
;

exposed to moisture,

will

musty, and unfit for use.

table, nourishing

Pimican

a very palait,

and healthy food

while travelling
to the

and on

our

Voyagers

subsist,

in this country.

Sometimes we add
from the Natives

two above named

ingre-

dients, sugar or dried berries,

;

which we procure
it is

and the taste of

thus very

much improved.
Monday,
4.
I

have

visited the

Hudson Bay

Harmon's journal.
people, whose fort
is

49

but a few rods from ours.

it,

Mr. Miller, the gentleman who has charge of

bany Factory;
that, in going

informed me, that they obtain their goods from Al-

down with
5

their barbut, that

in

ges, they are generally about forty days

they are nearly twice that time

in returning,

consequence of the current.

the north east from
this.

The Factory

lies to

Wednesday,

6.

This morning Mr.

c Donell,

whom we
informed
ing

passed a few days since, overtook, and

us,

that one of his canoes broke, in com-

down

the rapids, that one of the

men was

drowned, and most of the property on board was

lost.

Friday,
a

8.

This evening, Mons. Mayotte took

ceremonies

woman

of this country for a wife, or rather conAll

cubine.

the

attending such
a person
is

an

event, are the following.

When

desi-

rous of taking one of the daughters of the Natives,

as a

companion, he makes a present to the parents

of the damsel, of such articles as he supposes will

be most acceptable
dispensable
to excess.
;

and,

among them, rum

is in-

for of that all the

savages are fond,

articles

Should the parents accept the

the
fort

offered,
suitor,

the girl remains at

with her

and

is

clothed

in

the

Canadian fashion.
I

The

greater part of these young women, as

am

informed, are better pleased to remain with the

50
white
people,

Harmon's journal.
than

with

their

own

relations.

Should the couple, newly joined, not agree, they

are at liberty, at any time, to separate
part of the property, given to the
girl, wilt
;

but no

parents of the

be refunded.
,

Sunday

10.

Lake Winipick.

In the former
I

part of the day, the people for

;

whom

have long

been waiting, came up and soon after, I embarked with them, and came hither. Although we are
not in want
killed a

of provisions, yet our people

have
is

dog

to eat, the flesh of which, they say,

delicious.

The

dogs of

this country,

which resem-

ble

wolves,
in

differ

considerably

from the dogs,

the

found

the civilized part of the world.

11.

Monday,
morning
us to
;

We

embarked, early

in

but soon, the wind blew so as to oblige

the land, which

make

we have

done, on a

point that projects far into the Lake.

Soon after

number of the Indians of this quarter, who are Chippeways and Muscagoes, came to pay their respects to us, to whom we gave some rum, tobacco, &c.
the shore, a

we reached

Sunday, 17.

Entrance of the river Dauphine,

to

Lake Winipick, which we now leave

river,
is

go up

this
in in

about

two hundred and

country about
is

fifty

miles

length,

and from three to sixty or seventy,

breadth.

The

this lake, for a considis

erable distance,

low,

and

overspread with

Harmon's journal.
pretty heavy timber, and the
good.
soil

51

appears to be

Dauphine river

is

so shallow, at present,

that our people are under the necessity of leaving

half their ladings, for which they will return, after

having proceeded a certain distance with the remainder.

Tuesday, 19.
high, that
it

Last night, the wind blew so

drove the water of the Lake to such

a distance

up the beach, that we were under the

farther into
times.

necessity of removing our baggage

the woods, at three different

ing,

This morn-

our people came back for the remainder of

;

the property

and we proceeded up the

river,

which
it is

is

about ten rods wide.

The

country about

level.

Wednesday, 20.

Lac

St.

Martin.
lake.

The

river

Dauphine passes through

see a great

this

We
;

here

number of swans,
is

bustards, pelicans,

&c.

The

country around
that

swampy

and
in

am
vi-

informed,
cinity.

Moose are numerous

This morning we

the

Friday,

22.

left

Lac

St.

Martin, and entered the

again find fowls,
in

Muddy Lake, where we

great abundance.

Saturday, 23.

This portage

is

North end of the Plain Portage. about two miles over, through a
and the
Little
soil is excellent.

beautiful country,

Sunday,

24.

Lake Winipick.

Here

52

harmon's journal,
find

who are Chippeways, waiting our arrival, to get rum to drink, and necessaries, to enable them to hunt we
a

number of the

Natives,

the beaver.

Monday, were the last

for

25.

We
;

remain

still,

where we

night
in

and have been employed,

selection of goods

during the day,

the

making out a
at

establishment

the

entrance

of the of

river Dauphine,
this

which

falls into

the west end

Lake.

At that

place,

a French missionary
possession
for a short

resided,

before the

British obtained

of Canada.
time
;

He

remained there, but

success,
I

and great

therefore, could not

told,

have been expected.

am

however, that

there are some Indians, still living, who recollect prayers, which were taught them by the missionary.

Saturday ,30.

Encampment

Island.

Here we
goods
this

arrived, in the fore part of the

day

and we have

been employed, ever

for the

since, in setting aside

Red Deer

River, which

falls

into

lake,

at

the north end.

We

are

now

nearly

across the lake,

which

is

about one hundred and

five, to

twenty miles long, and from

thirty broad.
in this

There are no mountains, of any magnitude,

part of the country.

The

land

is

generally low,

and well covered with timber,

which

consists

Harmon's journal.
of a species
low,
<fec.

o3
as pin,
wil-

of pine, birch,

poplar,

Friday, September
Gillis,

1.

In the morning, Mr.

left us to

with most of the people,

proceed

to the

Red Deer
in

River, where they are to pass

the ensuing

winter.

Mr.
lies

Leod, with a numto

ber

of people

one

canoe, has gone

Lac

Bourbon, which place

this.

nearly north west from

We

here take,

in nets,

the white

fish,

which

are excellent.

Wednesday,

3.

have
in

passed the day

in

reading the Bible, and

sent
;

meditating on

my
it

pretoo

way of living and, I must confess, much resembles that of a savage.

Sunday,!.

that

Late the

last

evening,
;

Mr.

Mc

Leod returned from Lac Bourbon and, this morning, they again embarked for Swan River, and left me here, with two men, and as many women, to wait for the arrival of a number of
canoes, which are
still

behind,

but

which are
part

expected

in daily.

Wednesday,

10.

Yesterday,

of the

people arrived, for

whom

have been waiting,

River, and

some of

whom

sent to the

Red Deer

others to

Swan Riv^r.
4.

Sunday, October

JYorth end of Little

Lake

WinipicL

From

the 29th of August, until the

morning of

this day, I

remained on Encampment

54

Harmon's journal.

Island, waiting for the arrival of the people,

who

were

left

behind.

But, as they had almost conI

stantly high winds, which,

in this late

am

told, are

part of the season, they did

common hot make

at

their appearance, until the second instant.

During the long stay which

unpleasant Island,

made

that

we had little or nothing to eat, excepting what we took from the water with our nets. There were times, when we met with little success. When the wind was high, we could
not set our nets
;

and consequently took nothing.

it

One

night the wind was so high, that

took the

only canoe which

we

had, to the other side of the

Lake, a distance of

five miles, at least.

We

were
nets.

thus deprived of the means of setting our

On

the

eighth day after

sent

this

disaster,

Provi-

dence

an

Indian to
lent

the place of our en-

campment, who
of
ours,

us his canoe to go in search

which

our

people

found,

uninjured.

had no canoe, we were under the disagreeable necessity of living upon the fish

While we

which we had

left

on the beach, when

had, by this time,

we

took

them

in plenty.

They

become
they

almost

putrid.

Unsavoury,

however, as

were, they did not

last so long as

we

could have

wished

for,

when

they were expended,

a kind Providence

we had
sent
a
fired,

nothing to eat, until

black bear near our tents.

One

of

my men

Harmon's journal.

55

and killed him, which was a blessing, for which

we endeavoured to be thankful. We considered it sent by Heaven and felt, that we deserved not
;

such a favour.
just
as

But the

rain descends on

the un-

well as the just.

Yesterday,

it

snowed,

during most of the day, which prevented us from

decamping.
luctance,

But early

this

morning, without re-

we left the solitary Island, where many moment of ennui passed over me. As I had
I

no other book,

read during

my

stay there the

greater part of the Bible.

This afternoon,
canoe,

we

meet
of the

two men,

in

a small

from Swan
the

River, loaded with provisions, for

people

Red Deer

River.

We

did not suffer so good

an opportunity, for furnishing ourselves with a

sufficiency of food, to

sustain us
to

until

we

should

meet with another supply,

pass unimproved.

How
not

delicious
!

is

food to a person

famishing

But there are

who is near thousands, who know

how

to

prize abundance, because they have

never experienced the distresses of want.

Swan River. Yesterday, on account of high winds, we could not but early this morning, leave our encampment we embarked on board of our canoes, and at twelve, left Little Lake Winipick, and entered
Thursday October
9.

Little

this river,

which
full

is

eight or ten rods wide, very

I

shallow, and

of rapids.

therefore debark

56
ed,
in

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

and walked along on the beach about four miles,

the snow,

mud and

water.

The

people, also,
to

for

want of a

sufficiency of water,

were obliged

debark, and drag their canoes

places.

up the shallow
have given to
all

But we are now encamped around a

with plenty of food;
I

large

fire,

each of the people a dram, and we have

ceas-

ed

to think of the fatigue

and trouble of the day.

To make

a place to

lie

down, the people scrape

away the snow, and

duces

lay

down

a few branches of

the pine, such as this country in every part pro;

and on

this

we spread

a blanket or two,

and cover ourselves with another.

a bed

A
;

day of hard

labour, and of great fatigue, will enable a person

to sleep soundly, on such

and to obtain
in

refreshment, such as a sluggard will seek for

vain, on a

bed of down.

Swan River Fort. In the morning we crossed Swan Lake, which is nearly eight miles long, and then entered the Great Swan
Friday, 10.

River.
there
is

This river

is

about eleven rods wide

is

a sufficiency of water, and there

its

no

rapid from

mouth

to the fort, a distance of

is

twelve miles.
in

The

country adjoining,

low, and
is

many

places,

swampy, and the

soil

rich.

Mons. Perigne, the superintendant of the

a tolerable kitchen garden.
people, once

fort,

has

The Hudson Bay

it

came here

but

is

several years

harmon's journal.
since

57

they abandoned the place.

As they have

nothing to expect from the Company, but their

salaries,

they seem, so far as

exertion
to

can learn, to

make

but

little

extend their trade, and,

has been employed in

thereby, to benefit their employers.

Saturday, 11.
fitting

The day

out Mons. Perigne, who, with six labouring

to

men,

is

go and build a

fort,

about

fifty

miles

up
ing

this river,

where they
this,

will pass
is

the winter.

A
is

few miles from

there

a salt spring, by boilsalt

down
It
;

the
is

water of which, tolerable

less strong

made.

than that brought from

quantity,
it

Canada

but,

used

in

sufficient

will

preserve meat very well.

Sunday,
fort

12.

The

people destined to build a

to day.
I

up the
until
is

river, left us

shall

remain

here

some persons arrive from Alexandria,

which

situated nearly one hundred miles to the

this,

westward of
shall pass the

among the

winter, with Mr.

and build by the side

There I MLeod, or go of the Hudson Bay people,

Prairies.

who

are about three

leagues distant from him.

Our men shoot a few hares and ducks.

Thursday,
16.

We

have taken a few

fish

out of this river, with nets.

This evening, two

men on
I

horses arrived from Alexandria, by

whom

received a letter from Mr.

to

Leod, requesting

me

accompany them
8

to that place.

58
Saturday, 18. River.
In the

HARMON'S JOURNAL.
Second crossing place
in the

Swan

country which

morning we left the fort. The we have passed through, is low

aspin, birch,
is

and the timber, consisting of poplar,

willow, pine
small.

and an inferiour kind of maple,

sap of the maple, sugar
is is

Of the
quality

made

but

its

not equal

to

that,

produced

from the real maple.

Monday,

20.

Bird Mountain.

Here Mons.
fort.

Perigne and others are building a

Yesterprai-

day and to day, our way has been through

ries,

interrupted occasionally, by small groves of

wood.

Cranes and Pheasants are to be seen

;

in

the prairies
fired at

and to day,

have also seen and

having killed any of

eight

Elk, without

them.

They

are about the size of a cow, and of

a light grey colour.

The

males, which have long

branching horns, are animals of a noble and majestick appearance.

Wednesday, 22.
near

The foot of a high

hill,

and
lake

a small Lake.

The
taste.

waters
In the
right,

of this

have a sulphureous
left

morning,
after

we

Swan River
it

on

our

having

crossed
trees

on a

raft,

made by
hilly,

tying several dry

that
river

together.

Since

leaving

the

country appears more

and almost destitute

of timber of any kind.

Cranes and pheasants

are to be seen, every where.

Harmon's journal.
Thursday, 23.
in

59
arrived here

Alexandria.
;

We

the afternoon

and

at length, at the

end of

am happy to find myself, my journey, and where I

rise of

hope

to
fort

pass a few months, at least, in quietness.

is

The

built

on a small

ground, on the

bank of the

Assiniboine, or
it

Upper Red River,

prairie,

that separates

from a beautiful

about

ten miles long, and from one to four broad, which

is

as level as

the floor of a house.

fort,

At a
the

little

distance

behind the

are

small

groves of
whole,
fort
is

birch, poplar,

aspin and pine.

it, is

On

the scenery around

sixteen rods
in

delightful.

The
in

length,

by twelve
built,

breadth

the houses, stores, &c, are well

are plaister-

ed on the

inside

and outside, and are washed over

This earth

with a white earth, which answers nearly as well

as lime, for white washing.
in
is

found,

certain places, in

all

parts

of this country.

Here
for a

horses are to be bought of

the Natives

mere

trifle.

They
in

are well built, strong, and

tolerably fleet.

This place
103 west

lies

Latitude 52 north, and

in

Longitude.

Mr.

M
I

Leod

is

now gone
lies

to fort Dauphine, on horse back,

which

only
it

four days'

march from

this,

overland; yet
passed there

is

nearly
canoe.

two months,

since

in a

60
Tuesday,

Harmon's journal.
28.

Mr.

M Leod
c

and company
;

have just returned from

fort

Dauphine

and

am happy
aration,

in

meeting him, after so long a sep-

and he appears to be pleased to see me,

safely here.

From
Island

the time that

until

I I

was

left at

the

Encampment
person with

now,

have had no
in

whom

could converse
to converse

English

and

am
I

not yet able

it

in

French,

though

can read

tolerably
9.

welL
the 30th ultimo,
I

Sunday, November
set
off,

On
fort.

in

company with

four Canadians, on horse

back, for
this, it

Swan River

The day we
which caused us

left

snowed and

rained,

to

pass a very disagreeable night, as

ing but

we had

noth-

our wet blankets with which to cover

ourselves.

The
is

people

went down

for goods

and

as there

no person there
to deliver out

write, I

went

who can read and such articles as we

are in immediate want of here.

Sunday, 16.

The

Indians

who come
Assiniboins.

to this

establishment are Crees and

The

principal part of the former, generally remain in

the

woody part of the

country,

and

hunt the
in

moose, elk, beaver, &c. and the latter remain

the large prairies,

and hunt buffaloes, wolves, &c.

families of

Last Wednesday, twelve

Assiniboins

Crees and

came from the

large prairies, and let

us have furs and provisions.

Both the men and

Harmon's journal.

61

women have been

noise
is

drinking, ever since, and their

;

very disagreeable

for they talk, sing

and
on

cry, at the

same

time.

Our men play

I
is

at cards

the sabbath, the same as on any other day.

For
;

such improper conduct,

once reproved them

but their reply was, there

country, and, they added, no

no sabbath
nor devil

in this
;

God

and

their behaviour but too plainly shows,

that they
fact, that

spoke as they think.

those
in this

It is a

lamentable

who have been

for

any considerable time

a greater part

savage country, lay aside

of the regulations of civilized and christian people,

It is

and behave
true,

little
it

better than the savages.

not at
all

we have
come
to

times

in

our

power, to observe the sabbath as

the Natives

we

ought, as

our establishments as often

;

on that

day, as any other

and when they do

to,

come, they must be attended

and their wants

under

must be supplied.

We

are, also, frequently

the necessity of travelling on the sabbath.

it is

But

likewise

true, that, if

we were
things.

rightly dis-

posed, our minds might, on this day, be

almost
I

wholly occupied
therefore,

with divine

must,
rea-

acknowledge, that

we have no

sonable excuse for violating the sabbath, as

all

we

do.

Wednesday, 19.

Last night, there

is

fell

about

four inches of snow, which

the

first

that

we

62
have had,
of Crees

harmon's journal.
this season.
in.

Yesterday,
it is

eight families

came

While

drinking, one of their

women, who had

fell

a sharp pointed knife about her,

down, and drove

;

nearly two inches into her

not thought to be mortal.

side

but the wound

full

To

see a house

of drunken Indians, consisting

children,
is

of men,
sight
pull
;

women and
for,

a most unpleasant

in that condition,

they often wrangle,

each other by the

hair,

and

fight.

At some
seen,
last,

times, ten or twelve, of both sexes,

fighting

may be
until

each other promiscuously,

fall

at

they

all

on the

floor,

one upon another, some

spilling

rum

out of a small kettle or dish, which

they hold
ing

in their

hands,

while others are throwjust drunk.

up what they have

To

add

to

this uproar, a

number of

children,

some on

their

mothers' shoulders, and others running about and

taking hold of their clothes, are constantly bawling,

the older ones, through fear that their par-

ents

tune

may be stabbed, may befal them,

or that
in

some other misforThese shrieks the fray.

of the children, form a very unpleasant chorus to

the brutal noise kept up by their drunken parents,

who

are engaged in the squabble.

Sunday, November 30. drew's day, which

our Bourgeois,
nation, the
is

This,

being St. AnScotch, and

to

a fete
c

among the
fort,

Mr.

M Leod,

belonging

that

people of the

agreeably to the

Harmon's journal.

63

custom of the country, early

in

the morning, pre-

sented him with a cross, &c. and at the same

time, a

number of

others,

who were
hall,

at

his

door,
af-

discharged a volley or two of muskets.

ter,

Soon

they were invited into the

where they
which, Mr.

received a reasonable

dram,

after

Leod made them a present of a sufficiency of keep them merry during the remainder of the day, which they drank at their own house. In the evening, they were invited to dance in the
spirits, to

hall;

and during

it,

they received several flagons

considerable pro-

of

spirits.

They behaved with

priety,

until

about eleven o'clock,

when

their

heads had become heated, by the great quantity

of spiritous liquor which they had drunk, during
the course of the day and evening.
as the

Some

of

them became quarrelsome,

erally are,

Canadians gento

when

intoxicated,

and

high words,

blows soon succeeded;

and

finally,

two

battles

were fought, which put an end

North Western
ball.
2.

to this truly genteel.

Tuesday, December

As

yet,

we have
I

only a

few inches of snow.

panied by six

Yesterday morning, accom-

men

on horse-back,

went

to the

lodge or tent of one of our hunters.

The

people

went for meat, and

I,

for the

pleasure of riding,
arrived at the place
just as the sun

and seeing the country.

We

where the Indian was encamped,

64

Harmon's journal.

was sinking below the horizon, and when the hunter

was about
in

to take a sweat,

which

is

frequently

done

the following manner.

The women make

is

a kind of hut, of bended willows, which

circular,

nearly

and

if for

one or two persons only, not

nlore than fifteen feet in circumference, and three

or four in height.

Over

these, they lay the skins

of the buffaloe, &c. and

in

the centre of the hut,

they place heated

ters, perfectly

stories.

The

Indian then enin his

naked, with a dish of water

hand, a

little

of which, he occasionally throws on

the hot stones, to create steam, which, in connexion with the

ration.

heat, puts

him

into a profuse perspi-

In this situation he will remain, for about

;

an hour

but a person unaccustomed to endure

it

such heat, could not sustain

for half that time.

They sweat themselves

in order that
ple,

in this

manner, they say,

sup-

their limbs

may become more

in

and they more

alert,

pursuing

animals,
also,

which they are desirous of

of diseases.

killing.

They,

consider sweating a powerful remedy, for the most

As they come from

snow.

sweating, they

frequently plunge into a river, or rub themselves

over

with
is

The

country

we

passed
there

through,

large prairies, with here and

a grove of small trees.

This evening we return-

ed

to

the

fort

and the horses of our people

flesh of the

were loaded with the

moose and

elk.

Harmon's journal.

65

The

buffaloes are as

yet a considerable distance

farther, out in the spacious prairies.

Nothing but
into

severe

cold weather will drive theui

the
will

woodj

part of the
in

country,

to

which they
be, to

then come,

order to be less exposed to the

wind and weather, than they would

in

remain

the open plains.

Sunday, 21.

There

is

now about

foot of

snow on the ground; and, on the 11th instant, I left this place, in company with seven Canadians,
for

Swan River

fort.

Each man had

a sledge,

drawn by two
fifty

dogs, loaded with one

hundred and
to

pounds weight of

furs, besides provisions

serve

man and

beast, to

perform the

trip.

On
I

our return, the sledges were loaded with goods.

We

reached our
to find

fort, this

afternoon,

where
a visit

am

happy

Mr.

Hugh

M Gillis, on
c

from

Red Deer

River, and

also,

two men with

letters,

from Fort des

Prairies,

or Sisiscatchwin

River.

The former
fifty

place, lies about one

this,

hundred and

miles from
in

and the

latter, four or five

hundred,

nearly a north direction.

Wednesday, 24.
the fort of the

Yesterday,

went to see
is

Hudson Bay Company, which

situated about nine miles

in

down

this river,

and

is

the charge of a Mr.

Sutherland.

He
who,

has a
I

woman

of this country, for a wife,

find,

was

pleased to

could speak the English language,

66
tolerably well.

Harmon's journal.
I

understand, also, that she can

it,

both read and write

which she learned to do

at

Hudson's

l^ay,

where the Company have

to

a school.
lan-

She speaks,
guages.
sense,

likewise, the

Cree and Sauteux

possess

She appears
and
is

natural

good

far

from being

deficient, in acquired

knowledge.
Friday,
for

January

2,

1801.

The

weather,
cold.

several

days past, has been severely

Yesterday, being the commencement of a

new

year, our people, according to a Canadian custom,

which
in

is

to get

drunk

if possible,

spent the day

drinking,

and danced

in

the

evening

but

there was neither scratching nor fighting, on this

occasion.

Sunday,

4.

In the

morning, the greater part

of our people, consisting of men,

dren, were sent
the winter, about

women and

chil-

away

to pass

the remainder of
this,

two days' march from

will subsist
will

in

the prairie.
buffaloe,

They

on the flesh of the

kill in

which they

themselves

abundreside

ance.

During their stay there, they

will

in tents or lodges,
loes

moose or

elk.

made of the skins of the buffaThese skins, after having been

;

dressed, are

sewed together

and one tent

will

contain from ten to twenty five of them.

tents are erected on poles,

These

and assume the form of

a sugar loaf.

Ten

or fifteen persons will reside in

Harmon's journal.
one of them
ting or lying
;

6?

for while there, they are either sit-

down.

The
siniboins

Indians,

who come
some
call

to this establishment,

are, as has
;

been already observed, Crees and Asthem, Kinistinoes and

are

or as

Stone
tribes
;

Indians.

Both of them

numerous

and

as

they often meet, and some of them

intermarry, their manners and customs are similar

;

but there

is

no resemblance
are
well

in

their lan-

guages.
horses.

Both

tribes

furnished
are,

with
far,

The
and
it

Assiniboins,
;

however,

by

the best horsemen

they never go any distance

on

foot,
kill

is

generally on horse back, that

they

their

game.
their horses, and

They mount
kill

run down, and

the

buffaloe,

and some other animals, with

find
fire

bows and arrows, which they

convenient for this purpose, as
Crees,

every way as

arms.

But the

when they can procure them, always make

Their clothing
materials, and
consists of leggins of

use of guns.

cloth or dressed Antelope skins, a shirt or of the

frock

same

a blanket .or dressed

their bodies,

Buffaloe skin,

which they wrap round

and

tie

about their waists.

To

the above they

skin,

will often

add a cap or bonnet, of the wolf

feet.

and shoes for their

Last evening,
with
I

wrote to two fellow travellers

;

me from Montreal

and the letters

will

be

68

Harmon's journal.
winter
is

taken to them by the

leaves
this,

express,

which

tomorrow, and

to pass

by the way of

Fort des Prairies, thence to the English River, and

thence directly to Athabasca.
ed, there
is

And,

am

inform-

an express, which every year leaves

in

month of December, and passes through the whole country called the North West,
Athabasca,
the

and
St.

in

the latter part of March, reaches the Soult

Maries.

Thus the gentlemen who come up

,

from Montreal, obtain from the

interiour, intelli-

gence respecting the transactions of the preceding

summer and
otherwise do.

fall

much

earlier

than they could

it is

This information,

important

that they receive, as soon as possible.

This con-

veyance of intelligence, extending to the distance

of nearly three thousand miles,
is

attended with

but a

trifling

expense to the Company.

Beautiful
six
;

Thursday, 15.
eleventh,
I

weather.

On

the

accompanied
with

of our people to the

tent of one of our hunters

and the day following,

loaded with

they returned

their sledges
to

meat

but

remained,

go along with the

Accordingly, the
in dif-

hunter, farther in the

prairie.

next day,

proceeded with him, and saw,

least

ferent herds, at
ing.

a thousand buffaloes, graz-

They would
At

allow us to

come within

few
not

rods of
ces.

them before they would leave

this season,

their plait is

they are tame, and

Harmon's journal.
at
all

69
But, in the

dangerous to go among them.

fore part of the

son,
it is

summer, which

is

their rutting seaif

quite the reverse.

Then,

they per-

ceive a

human
or

being, the males will pursue him,

will

and

if

they can overtake,

feet,

trample him under

horns through
his

their

pierce

their

body.

The male
one
thousand,

buffaloe,
to

when

fat, will

weigh from
pounds,

fifteen

hundred
but

and

the female, from eight hundred, to a thousand.

Their meat

is

excellent eating;

is

not gene-

rally considered so delicious, as that of the moose.

Wednesday, February 11.

On

the 1st

inst. ac-

companied by eight of our people, and one of the

Natives as a guide,
I set off,

with a small assortfifty

ment of goods,
families of

to

go and trade with about

Crees and Assiniboins.

or village,

In going to

their
all

camp

we were

three days, and at

times, in an

open country.

After

we had

en-

camped

the first night, there

came on
in

a terrible

storm of snow, accompanied by a strong and cold

north wind
;

and as

we were

an open plain,

we

had nothing
weather.
snow, a foot

to shelter us

from the violence of the

'

we were covered with Our people, however, soon and we proceeded, hoping to harnessed the dogs warm ourselves, by running. This we found it
In the morning,
in

depth.
;

difficult to do, as

the wind was strong, and directly

70
in

harmon's journal.
our faces.

At the
food,

close

of the dav,
killed a fat

after,

we

had encamped, our guide

which supplied

buffaloe,

both to

men and
fire,

beasts.

While eating

it

around a large

we, almost for-

got the suffering which

we endured, by
;

the cold of
if

the preceding night and morning

not thankful for the blessing

we were bestowed upon us, we

and,

were, at

least,

glad to enjoy

it.

After having passis

ed one or two cold days without eating, there

relish in food to

which the sons of indolence and

;

of pleasure, are perfect strangers

and which they

toil

can purchase only, at the expense of

hardship.

and of

When we
of the

had approached within about a mile

camp

of the Natives, ten or twelve of their

Chiefs, or

most respectable
to

men among them,

at

came on horseback,
their dwellings.

meet, and conduct us to

We

arrived

them, through a

crowd of people, who hailed us with a shout of Immediately after our arrival, the principal joy.
Chief of the village sent
his son, to invite

me and

my

interpreter to his tent.

it,

As soon

as

we had en-

tered

and were seated, the respectable old

Chief caused meat and berries, and the best of

every thing which he had, to be set before
fore
us.

Be-

we had eaten much, we were sent for to another tent, where we received a similar treatment and from this, we were invited to another and so
;

Harmon's journal.
on,
till

71

At

all
;

we had been to more than half a dozen. these, we ate a little, and smoked our
for,

pipes

my
if

interpreter
affronted,

informed me, they

would be greatly
spised them,

and think that we de-

we

refused to taste of every thing

Hospitality to strangers,

which was
is

set before us.

among the Indian virtues. During several days that we remained with these people, we were treated with more real politeness, than is commonly shown to strangers, in the civilized part of
the world.

While

was

at

the

camp

of the Natives,

was invited

to attend

and see them dance.

The
all

dancers were about

thirty in

number, and were

clothed with the skins of the Antelope, dressed,

which were nearly

as

white as snow

and upon

their heads they sprinkled a white

earth,

which
Their

gave them a very genteel appearance.

dance was conducted

in the following manner.

A
tom-

man, nearly forty years of age, rose with

his

ahawk
voice,

in his

hand, and made, with a very distinct

a long harangue.

He

recounted
in

all

the

noble exploits which he had achieved,

eral war-parties with which

the sevhis
in

he had engaged

enemies

and he made mention of two persons,

particular,

whom
;

he

first killed,

and then took

off

their scalps

and

for

each of these, he gave a

against a post,

blow with

his

tomahawk

which was

72

harmon's journal.
near the cenbegan,

set up, expressly for that purpose,

ter

of the

tent.

And now

the musick

which consisted of tambourines, and the shaking of

bells,

accompanied by

singing.

Soon

after,

the

man who had made

with great majesty

the harangue, began the dance,

;

then another arose, and joinafter,

ed him

and shortly

another

and so

on,

one

after another, until there

were twelve or

fifteen

up,

who

all

danced around a small

in the centre of the tent.

fire, that was While dancing, they

made many savage

they are
in

gestures and shrieks, such as

the habit of making,

when they encountheir seats,

ter their enemies. for nearly an hour,

In this course they continued,

when they took

and another party got up, and went through with

the same ceremonies.

Their dancing and

singing,

however, appeared, to be a succession of the same

things
;

and therefore after having remained with

or three hours,
I

them two
ings
;

returned to

my

lodg-

and how long they continued their amuseI

ment,

cannot say.

In this excursion,

we saw

buffaloes in abun-

dance
I

and when on a small

rise of ground, I

think

may with

truth affirm, that there were in view,

grazing on the surrounding plains, at least five

thousand of them.

Of

these

animals,

we we

killed

what we wanted

for our
$

own

subsistence, and the

support of our dogs

and

this evening,

return-

Harmon's journal.

73

ed to the

fort,

well pleased with our jaunt, loaded

with furs and provisions, and without having received the least affront or the smallest injury from
the Natives, notwithstanding most of them
intoxicated with the spirits, with which

became
suppli-

we

ed them.
Tuesday, February 17.
a foot and an half of

We

have now about

snow on the ground.

in

Mr.
buffa-

Monteur, accompanied by two Canadians, arrived,

with letters from our friends,

Fort des Prairies.

killed a
;

This morning, one of our people

loe in the Prairie, opposite to

the fort

and an-

other came within ten rods of the

the dogs pursued him, and he ran

fort gate,
off.

when
three
of
as
,

Thursday, 19.
years of age, and

This day,

am twenty
!

how

rapidly does this space

It

time appear to have passed away

if it

seems

were but yesterday, that

is,

was

a child.

The

truth

the time that

we

are

allowed to remain
if

in this fleeting

world

is

so short, even

we should

be permitted

to

reach the utmost boundary of hu-

man

life,

that a person can scarcely have passed

the threshhold of existence, before he must set his

house

in

order to die.

Friday, 20.

During the

last night,

we
of

sat

up

to deal out spirits to the Indians.

his

One
is

them has
at the

own daughter
!

for a wife,

and her mother

a crime, of

same time

Incest,

however,

which

10

74

Harmon's journal.
not often guilty,
it,

the Indians of this quarter are

When

one of them does commit

he

is

regarded

by the rest of his tribe, as void of sense.

Saturday,

March

14.

snow
to

is

now

dissolved.

The greater part of the On the sixth inst. accomI left this, to

panied by eighteen of our people,

go

Swan River

fort.

We had

thirty sledges,

some

drawn by

horses, and

some by dogs, which were

loaded with furs and provisions.

Saturday, April 4.
I

arrived this afternoon, and have

Swan River Fort. Here come to pass

While
at

the remainder of the spring.

dria,

Alexan-

my

time passed agreeably in company with

c

A. N.

M Leod, Esq.
me
in

who

is

a sensible man, and an

agreeable companion.
instructing

He

appeared desirous of
to
;

what was most necessary

affairs
in

be
and

known, respecting the

a taste for reading
1

of this country

owe,

a considerable degree,

to the influence of his

example.

These, with many

other favours, which he was pleased to show me,

I shall

ever hold

in grateful

remembrance.-

But
;

now
as I

am

comparatively alone, there being no

person here, able to speak a word of English

and

have not been much

in

the

company of those
I

who speak
understand

the French language,

it

do not
for

as yet,
I

very well.

Happily

me,

have
pass

a few books;

and

in

perusing them,

I shall

most of

my

leisure

moments.

Harmon's journal.

75

Monday,
to a place

6.

have taken a ride on horseback,

sugar.

where our people are making

My

path led

me
I

over a small prairie,

and through

a wood, where

saw

a great variety of birds, that

as if to wel-

were
also,

straining their tuneful throats,

come the return of another

tree,

spring; small animals,

to

were running about, or skipping from tree

and at the same time, were
to

be seen swans,
in

bustards, ducks, &c.

swimming about

the river

and ponds.

All

these

things together, rendered

my

ramble beyond expression delightful.

Friday, 10.

Fine

pleasant

weather.

This

afternoon, I took a solitary, yet pleasing walk, to

the ruins of a

fort,

which was abandoned, a few

years since, by the Hudson

Bay people, to whom it belonged, but who do not now come into this While surveying these rupart of the country.
ins, I

could not avoid reflecting on the short dura-

tion of

every thing
I

in

this

fleeting

and perishing

world.

then went to a spot, where a number

of their people had been interred, far from their

native country, their friends and relations
!

And
blood

while

was lamenting

their sad

fate,

my me

chilled at the thought, that

to

what had happened

befal
also.

them might, very probably,

shall

But my prayer
will, in

ever be, that a merciful

to

God

due time, restore me

my

friends and re-

76
lations, in

Harmon's journal.

good health, and with an unblemished

character.

Sunday, 19.

On

Friday

last,

there

fell

nearly

a foot of snow, which, however, was soon dissolv-

ed

and

it

caused the river to overflow

its

banks

to such a distance, that our people

who were makwoods and

and

ing sugar,

were obliged
All

to

leave the

to return to the fort.

Tuesday, 21.

the snow has left us

we

are again favoured with fine weather.

The

last night, the ice in this river

broke up.
all

Monday,
fallen to the
feel the

27.

It

has snowed

day, and has

depth of six inches.

now begin
I

to

want of books, having brought but few

ex-

with me, on account of the short time that

pect to remain here.
Saturday,

May

2.
'

It

has

rained

all

day,

which

is

the

first

time
I

that any has fallen, since

the last autumn.

that requires

As
in

have but

little

business

my

attention, I

employ the greater

part of
ing the

my

time

reading the bible, and in study-

French language.
It

Sunday, 10.

has rained constantly, during

three successive days, which has caused the water in the river, since yesterday, to rise

more than
to

four feet.

Yesterday, one of my men went out

shoot ducks, and lost his way, and was therefore underline necessity of passing the night in the woods,

Harmon's journal,

77

without any covering from the cold and the rain,

which poured down

ever,

in torrents.

This morning, howall

by chance, or rather directed by an

fell

pro-

tecting Providence, he

upon a small
to the fort,
arrive.

foot path,

which brought him directly

where he

was not a
ance.

little

pleased to

Experience

only can teach us

how

to value such a deliver-

Wednesday, 13.
this river to

The
its

late rains

have caused

overflow

banks to such an uncomI

mon

distance, that
I

when

arose this morning, to

my

surprise,

found seven inches of water, on the

is

first floor

of the house, which

an event that the

to

oldest person here does not

remember before
obliged to

have witnessed.
fort,

We

are

leave

the
of

and to pitch our tents on a small

off,

rise

ground, at no great distance

remain, until the deluge
is

where we

shall

abated.

Friday, 15.

Sent

five

men with

a canoe,

two
and

days march up this river, for Mr.

M Leod
c

company,
lies

as the

face of the country extensively,

under water.
Wednesday, 20.

and with pleasure,

The water has left the fort; we leave our tents, to occupy
This afternoon

our former dwellings.

Mr.

Leod, and company, arrived, and are thus far on

their

way

to the

Grand Portage.
Yesterday, our people finished

Tuesday, 26.

78

Harmon's journal.
furs into

waking our
weight each*
for a

packs,

of ninety

pounds
a load

Two

or three of these

make

man,
all

to

carry across the portages.

This

morning,

the hands, destined to this

five canoes, for
I

service,

embarked on board of
ters.

Head-quar-

To

Mr.

M Leod,
c

delivered a packet of

letters, to

be forwarded to
in

my

friends,

who

reside

at

Vergennes,

the state of Vermont, and tomorfor Alexandria,

row,

I shall set

out

where

ex-

pect to pass the ensuing summer, and to superintend the affairs of that place and of
this, until

the

next autumn.

Monday, June h
I

Accompanied by two men,

;

arrived at Alexandria, this afternoon

six families
I

and

here

found
fort.

of Crees, encamped about the

clerk,

have with me one

two interpreters
thir-

and

five

labouring men, also six

women and

teen children, belonging to our people, and a num-

ber of
tives,

women and

children belonging to the Nato

whose husbands have gone on the Rapid Indians, or as they

Paw-is-tick I-e-ne-wuck.
tribe,

make war

up-

call

themselves,

This

is

a small but brave

who remain

a considerable

distance

out in

the large prairies,

the Missouri river.

and toward the upper part of

We shall
for

have nearly one hun-

dred mouths to

fill,

the greater part of the

summer, out of our store ; but to furnish the means, we have hired two of the Natives to hunt

-It

-J

Harmon's journal.
for us, during the season
;

79
elk, &c. are

and moose,

considerably numerous in this vicinity.

therefore, that
subsistence.

We

hope,

we

shall not

want

for the

means of

Buffaloes have
this

now

returned several
the spacious
us, since, if

days'

march from
;

place,

into

prairies

but this

is

no serious

loss to

they were near they would be but indifferent food,

as at this season of the year, they are always lean,

and consequently, rank and tough.

Wednesday,

10.

It

is

currently reportqd and

believed, that the

war-party,

in

Rapid Indians are forming a order to come against the Indians

of this quarter,

whom

they consider, and

think

with

sufficient

reason, as their enemies.

Should
fall

they come this way,

they

will

as

probably
;

upon us

as

upon the Natives themselves

for

they say, that

we

furnish the Crees and Assiniboins

with what
but few.
to
I

fire

arms they want, while they get

it

have, therefore, thought

expedient

direct our people, to build block-houses over

in order,

the fort gates, and to put the bastions

that

we may

be prepared

to

defend ourselves,
1

in

case of an attack.

Sunday, 14.

This afternoon, a number of the

fort.

Natives danced in the

Their dance

was

conducted

in

the following manner.

into

Two

stakes

were driven

the ground, about twenty feet

apart; and as one person beat the drum, the oth-

80

harmon's journal.
m

ers ? consisting of

these stakes.
that

of the

feet together,

men and women, danced round The men had a different step from women. The latter placed both and first moved their heels forward
toes,

and then their

the stakes.

and thus went slowly round

But the men rather hopped than

twice
once.

danced,

and therefore went

the

round

the
all

stakes, while

women went
I

They
all

kept exact time with the music, for they have

excellent ears.

Indeed,

believe

that

their

senses are

more acute than those of the white

9.

people.

Thursday, July

This day, there came here an

child,

American, that, when a small

was taken
Illinois

from

his parents,

who then

resided in the

country.

He

was kidnapped by the Sauteux, with

;

whom

he has resided ever since

and he speaks no

other language excepting theirs.

He
to

is

now about

twenty years of age, and

is

regarded as a chief

among
speak
in

that

tribe.

He

dislikes

hear people
;

to him,

respecting his white relations

his colour,

and

every respect excepting

with

he resem-

bles the savages,

whom

he

resides.

He

is

said to be an excellent hunter.

He

remains with

an old woman who, soon after he was taken from and his relations adopted him into her family
;

they

appear to be mutually as fond of each

other, as if they

were actually mother and

son.

Harmon's journal.
Thursday, 30.

81

Different kinds of berries are

as

now

ripe,

such

strawberries,
call

raspberries,

and what the Canadians

paires,

which the

Natives denominate Mi-sas-qui-to-min-uck.

last,

The

if

thej are not the same

in

kind, exactly
in

resemble, in shape and taste, what

the

England states are called shad

they are found
es,

berries.

New When

in

the prairies, they

;

four or five feet high

but in a thick

grow on bushwood they

often reach to the height of fifteen or twenty feet.

Of
sun,

this

wood, the Natives always make their ar-

rows.

These

berries,

when properly
taste,

dried by the

have an agreeable

and are excellent to and

mix with pimican.

The

Natives generally boil

;

them

in

the broth of fat meat

this constitutes
is

one of their most dainty dishes, and

at all their feasts.

introduced

Mr. A. N.
exander,

M Leod
c

has a son here

named
In

Al-

who

is

nearly five years of age, and whose

tribe of the

Mother is of the
leisure time,

Rapid

Indians.

my

lam

teaching him the rudiments of the

English language.

The boy
for

speaks the Sauteux

;

and Cree
self

fluently,

a child

and makes himin

understood tolerably well,

the Assiniboin
is

and French languages.

In short, he

like

most

of the children of this country, blessed with a retentive

memory, and learns very

11

readily.

We

have made about ten tons of hay, to feed

82

harmon's journal.

those of our horses which

we

intend shall work,

during the winter season.

The

others live the

tjiey
find
it,

whole year, upon the grass which

the prairies.
In the winter, to

in

procure
feet,

they

must scrape

away, with their

the snow,

which

is

generally eighteen inches deep, excepthighest

it

ing on the

hills,

from which the wind

27.

drives most of

into the valleys.

Thursday,

August
in

All

the

provision

which we now have

the fort, consists

;

of only

about fifteen pounds of pimican

shall

and when we

be able to add to our supply,

is

God only knows.

and
it is

All our dependance

on our hunters;

now

a considerable time since they have killed any

thing,

though moose and elk are numerous

in this

vicinity.

%
Yesterday, three of our people

Sunday, 30.

arrived from the

Grand Portage,

with

letters

from Mr.

M Leod,
c

&c, which inform me,

that

the above mentioned

ers
off

people, together with othfort,

who remained

at

Swan River

were sent

from head quarters,

earlier than usual, with an

assortment

of goods, supposing, that

articles,

we might

need some
rives.

before the main brigade ar-

Sunday, September
during which
cessation.
it

6.

This

is

the

third day,

has

rained,

without

the least

There

are five families of Crees, en-

Harmon's journal.

S3
continual;

camped about the

fort,

who have been

ly drunk, during the

last

forty eight hours

but

now they
drinking.

begin to be troublesome, for they have

sell,

nothing more to

yet

they wish to continue

One
last

of the Indians,

who was
face

of the party that

spring went to

war, has recently

come

in.

When
black,

he arrived,

his

was painted entirely

is

which

am

informed,

always their cus-

when they return from such expeditions. As he drew nigh to the fort, he began to sing a war song. He states, that his party, the Crees and Assiniboins, have made great slaughter among their enemies, the Rapid Indians, and are bringing a number of their women and children home,
tom,
for slaves.

He

was sent forward,

as

he

says, to

inform us of what they consider, glorious news.

Monday, 7. More of the Indians, who have been to war, have reached this place, and have brought several slaves, and a few scalps, with
them.
their

This afternoon,

they danced and sung

to the

war
I

songs.

Agreeably

custom of the
not as

country,

gave them a few

trifling articles,

a reward for having been to war,

but because

they have done us honour, as they think, by dancing in

our
',

fort.

Sunday
day.

27.

It

has snowed
c

and rained

all

This afternoon, Mr.

M Leod and

company,

84

Harmon's journal.

returned from the Grand Portage, and delivered

to

me
I

letters

from
in

my

friends in

my

native land

and

am happy
in this
all I

being informed, that they left

health.

them blessed with good

as I

Self-banished,
dis-

am,

dreary country, and at such a

hold dear
in

tance from

this world,

nothing

beside, could give

this intelligence

me

half the satisfaction, which

J

affords.
in

also

received several
parts

letters

from gentlemen

different

of the

widely extended North

West Country.
Montague
morning,
Jliseau,
I

Friday October

or the

Bird Mountain,
dria,

In the

deft Alexanthis

on horse back, and arrived here

evening
pass

where, by permission of Providence,

the ensuing winter.
preters, six labouring
fort
is

I shall

have with

me

three inter-

built

on the

men and two women. The bank of Swan River, a little

its

more than
to

fifty

miles distant from

entrance

in-

Swan Lake.
of

The

Indians

who

frequent this

establishment are Sauteux, Crees and Mus-ca-goes,

all

whom
;

speak nearly the same language.

Moose and
vicinity

elk are considerably numerous, in this

but buffaloes seldom

country.
29.

come thus
22nd

far, into

the

woody

Thursday,
c

On

the

instant,

Mr.

M Leod, with ten of his people, arrived on horseback; and on the day following,
I

accompanied

them

to the

lower

fort,

where

met Mr. William

harmon's journal.

35

Henry, a clerk.

Mr.

M Leod
c

has also brought

another clerk into this country, by the name of

Frederick

Goedike.

This

evening,

Messrs. but left

M Leod,
c

Henry and

myself, returned,

the people behind, whose horses are loaded with

goods, for this place and Alexandria.

Tuesday, November

3.

Snow
is

has fallen, to the

the
first

depth of three inches, which

that

we

have had,

this fall.

Thursday, 19.
fallen.

A foot

and an half of snow has

Clear and cold.

Wednesday, December 23.

the 16th
inst. I

On
pass-

went

to Alexandria,
in

where

ed several days agreeably,

Messrs.

the

company of

M Leod,
c

Henry,

and

Goedike.
at

We
I

have now more snow than we had

the last winter.

any time

In consequence of lameness,

returned on a sledge drawn by dogs.

Friday, 25.

This being Christmas day, agreeI

ably to the custom of the country,

gave our peo-

ple a dram, and a pint of spirits, each.

Monday,
a wife

28.

Payet, one

of

my

interpreters,

has taken one of the daughters of the Natives for

;

and

to

her parents, he gave

in

rum, dry

goods, &c. to the value

of two hundred dollars.

No

ceremonies attend the formation of such con-

nexions, as I

have before remarked, excepting that

the bridegroom, at the time to retire to rest, shows

86
his bride

Harmon's journal.

where

their

common
One
is

lodging place

is

and they continue to cohabit,

ties

as long as

both paris

choose, but no longer.

this

thing

secured

by

arrangement, which

by no means always
is,

found

in

the civilized world, and that

while per-

sons live together, in a state of wedlock, they will

live in

harmony.
1,

Friday, January

1802.

This being the

I

first

day. of the year, in the morning,

ple a

gave the peo-

dram

or two, and a pint of

rum

each, to

drink in the

course of the day,

it

which enabled

them

to pass

merrily, although they

had very
kill

little to

eat

for

our hunters say they can

nothing.

One
is

of

them

will not

go out of
Spirit, as

his tent

for he imagines, that the

Bad

they
find

call

the devil,
in

watching an opportunity to
air, in

him

the open

order to devour him.

What
numis

will not imagination

do

Saturday,

9.

Several days since,

sent a

ber of
er

my people of my hunters

to Alexandria for meat, as neithkill

any thing
in

though there

no scarcity of animals,

this

vicinity.

But they

have just returned, without any

thing.

They

say

that the buffaloes, in consequence of the late mild

weather, have gone a considerable distance, into

the large prairie.

We

are

therefore under the

necessity of subsisting on

pounded meat, and dried

article,
is little

chokecherries.

This latter

better

#
than nothing.
ation,

Harmon's journal.

87
in a

When we

shall

be

better

situ-

God

only knows.

Hope, however, which

us,

seldom abandons the wretched, denies us not her

comforting aid
that
it is
;

and past experience teaches

possible our circumstances

may suddenly

change for the better.

Sunday, 17.

Last evening, our people brought

from the tent of our hunter, the meat of a moose,

which lighted up
nances.

a smile of joy

upon our countethat a

We

were happy

to find,

kind

Providence, instead of abandoning, had favoured

us with one of the richest dainties, that this coun-

try affords.

It

w ould be
r

well

if

our joy was true

gratitude to our

kind

Benefactor.
;

There

are
last

twelve persons
fifteen days,

in

the fort

and yet for the

we have

subsisted on
!

what was scarcecer-

ly sufficient for

two people
days that

These were
I

tainly the darkest

in

ever experienced,

this or

any other country.

I

Tuesday, 19.

have taken a walk, accompathe fort,

nied by Payet, a short distance from

where we
in

found hazelnuts,

still

on the bushes,
easily

such plenty, that a person

may
I all

gather a
told, that

bushel in the course of a day.

am
of

when

sheltered from the wind, the month of

1.

them do not
past,
this

fall off, until

Monday, February

May. For several days

;

the weather has been excessively cold

and

88
has been, as
experienced.
I

Harmon's journal.
think, the coldest

day that
is

ever

In fact, the weather

so severe,

that our hunters dare not venture

tents,

out of their
lit-

although they, as well as ourselves, have

tle to eat.

Sunday,

7.

During the

last

three days,

we

have subsisted on tallow and dried cherries.

evening,

This

my men
it,

returned from Alexandria, with

their sledges loaded with buffaloe

sight of

meat

and the
favour

was

truly reviving.

Had

this

been withheld from us a few days longer, we must

have
all

miserably perished by famine.

8.

Monday,
cepting

All the Indians of this place, ex-

my

hunters, have

gone to pass about a

couple of months, as they are accustomed to do,

at this season,

on their beloved food, the buffaloe.

Friday, 19.
of
all

At

present, thanks to the Giver

good,

we have

a pretty

good stock of proto

visions in store,

and therefore expect not again

want, this season.

Saturday,
a visit to

March

6.

have just returned from

my

friends at Alexandria,
in

where

I pass-

ed four days very pleasantly, mother tongue.

as I

conversing in

my

This

is

a satisfaction that no one

knows, excepting those,

who have been

situated

am, with a people with

whom I

cannot speak

fluently.

And

if I

could,

it

would afford

me

little

satisfaction to converse

with the ignorant Canada

Harmon's journal.
ans around me.
dogs, canoes,
fight a

89
is

All their chat

about horses,

women and
battle.
I

strong men,

who can
is

good

have, therefore, only one

way

left to

pass

my
for

time rationally, and that

reading.

Happily
;

me
will

have

a collection of
fault if 1

good books

and mine

be the

do

not derive profit from them.

also,

begin to find

pleasure in the study of French.

Saturday, 20.
Indians
as

The

greater

number of our
;

have returned from the prairies

little

and
I,

they have brought

with them to trade,

;

of course, give

them

as little

for

we

are at too

great a distance from the civilized world, to

make

many

gratuities.
;

Yet the Indians were of a differfirst

ent opinion

and at

made

use of some unpleasto blows,

ant language.

But we did not come

and

are

now preparing
a

to retire to rest, nearly as

good
are.

friends as the Indians

and traders generally

With

few

exceptions, that friendship

is little

more, than their fondness for our property, and

our eagerness to obtain their
furs.

Wednesday, April 21.

is

The most
Indians,

of the snow

now

dissolved

and

this afternoon the ice in the

river broke up.

All our

who

for several

days past encamped near the

parted, to hunt here, they
cried,

fort,

have now dethey danced,

the beaver.

While they were

a word, made a ter-

made

a Jeast, at which
in

sung and howled, and

12

00
rible,

HARMON'S JOURNAL.
savage noise.

Such

feasts,

the Crees are

accustomed to make,
and sometimes also

at the return of

every spring

at other

seasons of the year.

By

so doing, they say they

appease the anger

and thus prevent

of the

Evil

Spirit

or devil,
to

him from doing them harm,

er

which they considalso, certain

him

as

ever inclined.

T^hey have,

places,
ty,

where they deposit

to the

a part of their properT

such as guns, kettles, bows, arrow s, &c. as a

sacrifice

same
they

Spirit.

To

the

Supreme

Being, however, the creator and governor of the

universe,
is,

whom
Spirit,

call

Kitch-e-mon-e-too, that
;

Great

they address their prayers

is

yet

they say there

sacrifice, since

no necessity of paying him any

is

he

a good Spirit, and

;

is

not disSpirit

posed to do them injury

is

whereas the Evil

it is

malicious,

and therefore,

proper that they

should strive to appease his anger.

The

above

mentioned feast was made by the Chief of the

band, whose

name

is

Ka-she-we-ske-wate,

who

for

the long space of forty eight hours previous to

the entertainment, neither ate nor drank any thing.

At the commencement of the

put on a grave countenance
;

feast,

every person

and the Chief went

ut-

through a number of ceremonies, with the

most solemnity.
over, every Indian

After the entertainment

was

made

a voluntary sacrifice of a

Harmon's journal

91

part of his property to the devil, or as 'they call

him, Much-e-mon-e*too.

Accompanied by one of my interpreters, I have taken a ride to a place where The 1 intend building a fort, the ensuing summer.
Sunday,
2.

May

animals

in this vicinity

are moose, red deer, a

spe*

cies of the

antelope, grey, black, brown,

choco-

late coloured

and yellowish bears, two species of

polecats or

wolves,
kitts,

wolverines,

skunks, lynxes,

beavers, otters, fishers, martins, minks, badgsilver, cross

ers,
es.

muskrats and black,

and red foxspecies

Of

fowls,

we have

swans, geese, bustards,

cranes, cormorants, loons, snipes, several

of ducks, water-hens, pigeons, partridges, pheasants,

&c. &c.

Most of the above named

in

fowls, are nu-

merous

spring and

autumn
in

but, excepting a few,

they retire to the north

the summer, to brood.

;

Toward

the

fall,

they return again

and before

winter sets

in,

they go to the southward, where

they remain, during a few of the coldest months

of the year.

Thursday,
ter

6.
c

This morning,
is

received a

letin-

from Mr.

M Leod, who
Many

at Alexandria,

forming me, that a few nights since, the Assiniboins,

who are noted

his horses.

thieves, ran

away with twenty

two of

of this tribe,

who

reside

in the large

prairies,

are constantly going about

find at

to steal horses.

Those which they

one

92
fort,

Harmon's journal.
they will take and
fort.
sell to

the

people of an-

other

Indeed, they steal horses, not unfre-

quently, from their

own
It

relations,

Wednesday, 12.
ing the day.

has snowed and rained, dur-

On the
it

7th

inst. I

went
c

to

Alexan-

dria, to transact business

with Mr.

M Leod.
;

Durand on

ing this jaunt,

rained almost constantly

my

return, in crossing this river, I

drowned

my
in

horse,

which

cost last

fall,

one hundred dollars

goods, as

we

value them here.

17.

Monday,

This

afternoon, Mr.

Leod

and company passed

this place,

and are on their

I

way

to the

Grand Portage.

But

am
in

to pass, if

Providence permit, another summer

riour,

the inte-

and to have
fort,

the superintendence of the

lower

this' place

and Alexandria, residing

chiefly at the latter place.

Tuesday,
this place,

18.

All

the

Indians
in

belonging to

have now come

with the produce of

;

their hunts,

which

is

abundant

and to reward

them

for

their industry, I

clothed two of their

to

Chiefs, and gave a certain quantity of spirits

them, and to the others.

intoxicated,

With

this

they became
last night,
;

and continued so during the

which prevented our

for
it is

closing our eyes in sleep

to

at all times necessary

watch the mois

tions of the Indians,

and especially

this the case,

Harmon's journal.

93
passion has

when reason has been dethroned, and

influence of ardent spirits.
tion, they, like

assumed the sole dominion over them, through the

While

in

that condi-

other people, often do things which

they

will regret in their

It

sober moments.
all

Sunday, 23.
six

has snowed
I

day

and about

inches have fallen.

am

waiting the arrival

of this post,

of Mr.
I

Henry

to take charge
to

shall

proceed

Alexandria.

when Two women

this

brought

me

few hazelnuts, which they

day

gathered from the bushes.

Monday, 31. Alexandria. Here, accompanied by two of my people, I arrived this afternoon.
I

ncrossing

Swan River,
;

was so unfortunate
I

as to

drown another horse

to

and

was therefore obliged

foot,

perform the remainder of the journey on

with nothing to eat.

er of
ions.
all

Here, thanks

to the

Bestow-

good,

I find

a tolerable stock of provisis

Mr. Goedike

to pass the

summer with
children,

me, also two interpreters, and three labouring

men, besides several

women and

who

together, form a snug family.

Wednesday, June 23.

panied by two of

On

the 16th
I

inst.

accom-

my

people,

set off for

first

River

fort,

on horseback.
;

The

night,

Swan we
1

slept at

Bird Mountain

and the day following,

fort.
is

we

arrived at the lower

From

that place,

returned in one day, which

a distance of ninety

94
miles.
I,

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

however, took a fresh horse

at the

Bird

Mountain.

One

of

my

people,

who

travelled less

rapidly, has arrived this evening, and informed

me,

that he

drowned

his

horse, at the

same place

where
had

had before drowned two.

return here, those in whose charge
I

On my
left

the place, had nothing to offer

me

to eat,
little

excepting boiled parchment skins, which are

better

than

nothing, and scarcely deserve

I

the

name

of food.

have therefore sent a part of

my

people, to endeavour to take

some

fish

out of a

small lake, called by the Natives Devil's Lake,

which

lies

about ten miles north from

this.

If

they should not succeed, and our hunters should not

be more fortunate than they have been for some time past, I know not what will become of us.
All our dependance
is

on a kind Providence
relief,

and

we

cannot but hope for a speedy

from our
the

truly sad condition.

Friday, July

2.

For
the

six days, after I sent

people to

fish

in

above mentioned lake, we

on parchment
fish,

subsisted at the

fort

skins, dogs,

herbs and a few small

river opposite to the
fish in

that

we

took out of the

fort.

But now, we obtain

and told

greater plenty.
of our hunters has been
to
in,

One
not
kill.

me

what he thought

be the cause

why he

could

He

said that

when he went

to hunt, he

Harmon's journal.
generally soon
fell

95

upon the track of some animal,

;

which he followed

but that, as soon as

terrible

he came
of an

nigh to him, he heard the

voice

Evil Spirit, that frightened both himself and the

animal.

The

animal would of course run

off,

and
I

the pursuit would end.

as

told the hunter, that

;

had a certain powerful medicine

he would do with
it

and provided
it

would direct him,

would not only frighten the Evil

turn, but

Spirit in his

would

also render
it

him

at first speechless,

and that shortly after

I

would cause him

they

to die.

then took several drugs and mixed them togeththat

I

er,

he might not know what

were,

which
tied

wrapped
the

in

a piece of white paper, and

to

but-end of his gun, and thus armlittle

ed him to ^encounter great or

they believe
I

devils

for

in

the existence of different orders.

in

told

him

to

go

search of a moose or deer

and as soon as he should hear the voice of the

Evil Spirit, to throw

the paper tied to his gun

air,

behind him into the

to the

and that

it

would

fall in5

mouth of the Evil

and destroy him.
him, lest

Spirit pursuing
I

him and
to

silence

warned him not

look behind

he should be too much

frightened at the sight of so monstrous a creature,

but to pursue the animal, which he

would un-

doubtedly

kill.

The same

day,

the Indian went to hunting.

96
and
fell

harmon's journal.

upon the track of an animal, which he

followed, as he has since told me, but a short

distance, before the Evil Spirit, as his custom was,

began

to

make

his

horrid cries.
as I

The
frightful

Indian,

however, did with the medicine

but

had directed
voice,

him, and heard no more of the

continued

following
fired,

the

animal

until,

ap-

proaching him, he

and killed a

fine fat

red

deer

and he

has since killed

several others.

Not

only he, but the

other Indians place, from

this circumstance, perfect confidence in

my
It

medi-

cines.

What

will not imagination,

aided by great
!

superstition,

make

a person believe

may

be

caused, however, at times, to remove the evils of

its

own

creation.
4.

Sunday,

Mr. William Henry and company

Bird Mountain, and inform
destitute
us,

arrived from the

that

they
will,

are

of

provision

there.

They
have

come and mainder of the summer with us

therefore,
provisions in plenty.
17.

pass
;

the

re-

for

we now

Monday,

In

consequence of the great

increase of our family of late,

we

are again poorly

if possible,

supplied with provisions.

obtain a supply,
I

In order,

to

have

sent seven of

my

people

several different ways, in search of the Natives,

who will be men chance

able to relieve our wants, should our

to find

them.

For

this

is

the season

Harmon's journal.
of the year, the fattest
kill
;

97

when

almost

all
it

wild animals are

is

and therefore,

the best time to

them, and make them into dry provisions.

Friday, 23.

There
saw

are at present, in this vi-

cinity,

grass-hoppers, in such prodigious numbers,

as

never before

in

any place.

In fair

weather, between

eight and ten o'clock,

A.

M.
of

which

is

the only part of the day

when many
flying in

them leave the ground, they are

cloud passing

such

numbers, that they obscure the sun, like a light

over
it.

They

also

devour every
and our

thing before them, leaving scarcely a leaf on the

trees, or a blade of grass

on the prairies

potatoe tops escape not their ravages.

Tuesday, August
toes and

3.

The most

of the mosqueto

horse
beast,

flies,

which are so troublesome

left us, as the nights

man and

have

now

be-

gin to be cool.

Yesterday,

six families of

Crees came to the

since.

fort;

and they have been drinking, ever

longing to another band, to
beating.

An

In-

dian had a few wrangling words with a squaw, be-

whom

he gave a slight

At

that time, the

chief,

who was
;

the

friend of the Indian,

was passing by
that

and he was

so
'

enraged

at

the abusive
friend,

language given

by

the

woman

to his

he

commenced
Indian

beating her on the head

with a club, and soon

morning, the

terminated her

life.

This
13

98

Harmon's journal,
buried her corpse,-;
jand no
if

women
is

more

notice

taken of her death, than

;

a dog had been

at

killed

for

her relations are

a considerable

distance, in another part of the country.

An
by

Inhis

dian

is

not

much regarded
he

or

feared

fellows, unless

has a number of relations to

life,

take part with him in his contests while in

or to

avenge

his

death, in case
is

he should be
all

murdered.
tribes,

This

true
I

among

the Indian

with which
11.

have been acquainted.

Wednesday,

On

the ninth instant, a Chief

among the Crees, came to the fort, accompanied by a number of his relations, who appeared very
desirous that
to
I

should take one of his daughters,

I

remain with me.

that
I

put

him

off

by

telling

him,

could not then accept of a woman,

fall.

but probably might, in the

He

pressed

me

however,

to allow

her to remain with me, at

once, and added,

is

"1 am fond of you, and my wish

;

to

have

my

daughter with the white people

for she

will

be treated better by them, than by

In fact, he almost persuaded
I

her own relations."

me

to

keep her

for

was sure

.that

while

had

the daughter,
ffors,

I '.should
all

not only have the father's

but those"* of

for the interest of the

fore, turn to

his band. This would be Company, and would theremy own advantage, in some meas-

ure; so that a regard to interest, well nigh

made

Harmon's journal.

99

me

consent to an act, which would have been un,

wise and improper.

But, happily for me,

es-

caped the

snare.
I

Saturday, 28.
interpreters,

have sent Primault, one of

six days'

my

with a letter, about

I

march
the
I

from
c

this,

where

expect

he

will

meet Mr.
from

M Leod
sent a

and company, on their way

Grand Portage.
few days
just returned

Two
since

of our people,

whom

into the large pr&irie,

have
are
this.

with the news, that

buffaloes

numerous,

within two Clays'

march from

They

say, that the

Natives,

during the two days

that they remained with them, killed

eighty,

upwards of
for that

by driving them

into a park,

made

purpose.

Sunday, October
fell,

3.

Yesterday, a
that

little

snow

which

is

the

first

we have had
in,

this sea-

son.

We

now

begin to think some disaster has

befallen our people,

on their way

as they
usual.

do

not

make their appearance so soon as Monday, 4. One of our men has

from Mr.

just arrived
letis

from the Grand Portage, and delivered me a

ter

Leod, informing me, that he

is

going to Athabasca, and

to

be succeeded here
canoe
in

by Mr.

Hugh

M Gillies.
c

The

which

this

man came,

left

head-quarters alone, some time

before the main brigade was prepared to leave.

Thursday, 21.

This afternoon, Mr.

Hugh

100

Harmon's journal.
.

M Gillies,
c

accom pained by one man on horse

me, that they were
miles

back, arrived, and informs

stopped by

the

ice,

fifteen
will

below Swan

River

fort,

whence they
25.

be obliged to bring

the goods^ on sledges.

Monday,

large band of Indians have

been here, who were continually drinking, during

the last forty eight
hours.
;

They have now

pass

ta-

ken their departure

arrived, and,

but another band has just

therefore,
;

we must

another
at

night without sleep

for*when the Natives are

the

fort,

and have the means of purchasing

spirits,

they expect to drink both night and day.

Saturday, 30.

Several of our people arrived

letters

from Swan River, and delivered me

from

my

friends

in

the United States,

the perusal of

which, has afforded

me much

satisfaction.

Samuel Holmes, a clerk and interpreter, land

a countryman of mine, has left us, to go and join

our opponents, the X. Y. people.

*[Soon after-

wards, he

left

the service

of the last mentioned

company, and went

Assiniboins,

to live with the Natives, the

by whom,

a year or two after, he

his

was

killed, while

he was on

way from

the

Red
ride,

River

to the

River Missouri.]
1.

Monday, November
*

have taken a

The remarks

included

in

brackets were added at a lat*

er date,

Harmon's journal.

101
to see the

accompanied by

my

interpreter,

down
fifteen

Hudson Bay people.

Mr. Miller has charge

labouring

of the place, and has with him

men, the greater part of whom, have

ed from Albany
of Albany River.
fort,

just returnthe,

which stands

at

mouth

Tuesday,

9.

Bird Mountain.
;

Here
there

am
will

to

pass another winter

and with

me

be

one interpreter and

I

six

labouring men, &c.

Thus
;

am continually moving from place to place and when my residence will be more stationary, God
only knows.
I

cannot, however, but look forward,

I

with pleasing expectation, to the time, when

hope

to

be permitted to settle down

in

some part

of the civilized world.

Friday, 19.

have just returned from the

I

lower

fort,

jwhere

have been accompanied with

I

part of

my

people, for goods.

find

here a band

of Indians,
in

who have been

make
a
fall

waiting for

my

return,

prder to procure such articles as they need, to

hunt.

enable them to
this

The

Indians in

quarter have been so long accustomed to use

it

European goods, that

that they could

would be with

difficulty

now

obtain a livelihood, without

fire

them.

Especially do they need

to kill their

arms, with

which
&c.

game, and axes,

kettles, knives,

They have

almost lost the use of bows and

it

arrows: and they would find

nearly impossible

0
I

102
to cut their

HARMON

JOURNAL. of stone

wood with implements, made

or bone.

Thursday, December 25.

er.

Severe cold weathThis day being Christmas, our people have

it

spent

as usual, in drinking

and

fighting.

My

ed-

ucation has taught me, that the advent of a Saviour, ought to

be celebrated
people
in

in

a far different
1

manner.

Of

all

the world,

think the

Canadians,
ble
;

when

drunk, are the most disagreea-

for excessive drinking generally causes

them
fort,

to quarrel and fight,

I

among themselves.
drunken Indians
in

Indeed,
the

had rather have

five

fifty

than

drunken Canadians.
I

Thursday, January 27,1803.

have just returnsix days,

ed from Alexandria, where

to

passed

much

my

satisfaction, in

M
J.

c Gillies,

there,

company of Messrs. H. W. Henry and F. Goedike. While c Leod, A. Henry and wrote to Messrs.
the

Clarke,

all

of Athabasca, which letters will be

taken to them, by our winter express.

Sunday, February
one of the Indian
20.

Yesterday morning,
to the fort

women came
off

and

said,

her husband had cut

her nose, and was deter-

mined

to kill her,

and that she therefore thought

reach, at least for the

proper to leave him, and go to Alexandria, where

she would be out of
present.
his

But, after her arrival here, she altered

her mind, and desired

my

interpreter to put an

harmon's journal.

103
to do.
for

end

to

her

life,
4

which he, of course, refused

1 will
I

Then
I

said she,

do the business myself,

with

am

resolved that

will live

my husband
after,

no

longer.'

We

did not believe, however, that she

this determination.

would execute

Soon

she

went

into

the woods, a short distance, and laid load of the few things which she had
fire, in-

down her
to

upon her back, and struck and kindled up a

which she threw the most of her property.

it

When

was nearly consumed, she took a

it

little

bag of powder and put

set fire to
it.

into

her bosom, and then

The

explosion burned a great part

of the hair from her head, injured

her face very

much, and rendered her perfectly

blind.
if

She now
possible, to

commenced running
burn.

about, in order

catch her dogs, which she was resolved next to

When we

heard her calling out for them,

we went out
this time,

to see

what she was

(Jbing;

for at

place.

we knew nothing of what had taken The spectacle was truly shocking! She
to

was so

disfigured, as scarcely

appear

like a hu-

man

being.

We

brought her into the

fort,

she remained very quiet, until

we were

all in

where bed

and asleep, when she got up, and went again into
the woods.

There she
it

tied a cord about her neck,

and then fastened

to the limb

of a tree.

But
morn-

on throwing herself
fell into

off,

the branch broke, and she

until

the snow, where she remained

104
ing,

.v

Harmon's journal.

when we found her nearly lifeless. amining, we discovered that she had run
length,
into

On

ex-

a needle

its full

her right ear.

;

We
is

brought

her again to the fort

swollen,

but her head

is

very
;

much
and

and her face

perfectly black
is

whether she

will recover,
1

uncertain.
old

[Several

years afterward,

saw her with her

as

husband
as for-

and she appeared to enjoy

merly.]

good health

Wednesday,

May
I

4.

Alexandria.

Here,

if

Providence permit,

shall pass

another summer,
interpre-

and have with

me Mr.

F. Goedike, one

ter and several labouring men, besides

women and

children.

As Mr. Goedike

will

be absent from

the

fort,

during the greater part of the summer,

I shall be, in a great

measure, alone

for ignorant
for

Canadians furnish
I

little society.

Happily
them.

me,

have lifeie^

friends,

my
I

books, that will never

abandon me,

until I first neglect

2.

Thursday, June

have

set

our people

to

surround a piece of ground for a garden, with palisades,

such as encompass our

building

forts.

The

X. Y.
this

people are
river.

fort,

five

miles

up

One
in

of our men, a Canadian, gave

a lad of about twelve years of age,

me whom

his son/
I

agree,
to feed

the

name

of the North

West Company,
to earn

and clothe,

until

he becomes able

some-

Harmon's journal.
thing more.

105

His mother

is

Sauteux woman.

He

is

to serve

me

as cook, &c.

Tuesday, 21.

This afternoon,

we had an

un-

commonly heavy shower of hail and rain. Yesterday, I sent Mr. F. Goedike, accompanied by several of our people, with a small assort-

ment of goods,
this,

to remain at

some distance from

for

several weeks.
is

In the absence of

my
na-

friend, this

to

me, a solitary place.

thoughts
visit

At such

times as
tivity
;

this,
I

my

the land of
left

my

and

almost regret having

my

friends

and

relatives,

among whom

might now have been

roving disposition.

pleasantly situated, but

for a

But Providence, which is concerned in all the affairs of men, has, though unseen, directed my w ay and it becomes me to bear into this wilderness
7

up under my circumstances, with

severance and fortitude.
hope, that
I

resignation, per-

am

not

forbidden to

shall one

day enjoy, with increased

of those
friends,

satisfaction,

the

society

from

whom

have for a season banished myself.

I

Sunday, 26.
cursion to the

have just returned from an ex-

large prairies, in

which
;

w as
r

ac-

companied by two of
of them, as
to

my

people

and

in

all

our

ramble we did not see a

is

single Indian.

The most
killed,

their

custom every spring, have gone

saw, and ran

war

again.

We
also,

down and

buffaloes,

and

saw red deers and antelopes,

14

106

Harmon's journal.
prairies, as well as bears

bounding across the

and

wolves, roving about in search

of prey.

In the

small lakes and ponds, which are to be

occasionally, all over the
prairies, fowls
fire

met with were in

arms,

considerable plenty

and with our

we

killed a sufficiency of
tion.

them, for our daily consump-

Although

it

rained during the greater part

of the time that

we were

absent from the

fort,

yet the pleasing variety of the objects which were

presented to our view, made our ride very agreeable.

One

night,

we

slept

at

the same place

where, a few days before, a party of the Rapid

Indian warriors had encamped.

They were
we

prob-

ably in search of their enemies, the Crees and Assiniboins

;

and

it

was happy

for us that

did not

meet them,
massacred

for

they would

undoubtedly

have

us,

as they consider us as enemies, for

fire

furnishing their opponents with

arms.
thirty peo-

Monday, August
ple in the fort, and

8.

We

have now

have not a supply of provisions

hunters, owing to a bad dream,
notion,

for

two days.

Our

or

some other
kill,

superstitious

think

that

they cannot

and therefore make no attempt,

animals
are numerous. In the

notwithstanding

civilized parts of the world,

when
in
us.

provisions are

scarce in one place, they can generally be obtain-

ed from some other

the case
is

place,

the vicinity.

But

otherwise with

When

destitute,

Harmon's journal.

107

we must wait until Providence sends us a supply and we sometimes think it rather tardy in coming.

Thursday, 18.

An Indian
last

has just arrived,

who

brings the intelligence, that forty lodges of Crees

and Assiniboins, who the

party, are returning

spring,

with forty lodges of other

tribes, set

company out on a war

in

home.
allies,

They

separated at

Battle River from their

says, crossed

who, the messenger

that river, to go and

make peace
inhabit

with their enemies, the Rapid and Black-feet Indians.

The

tribes

last

mentioned,

the

country lying along the foot of the

tain,

Rocky Moun-

between the Sisiscatchwin and Missouri Riv-

ers.

Both

parties begin

bloody wars, as

weary of such have long been carried on between

to

be

them, and are

much

disposed to patch up a peace,

on almost any terms.

Thus do

ruinous wars, wagin civilized

ed by

restless

and ambitious people,

and savage countries, lay waste and destroy the

comforts of mankind.

Sunday, October
a
little

16.
is

This afternoon there

first

fell

snow, which

the

we have had,

this

fall.

It is

now

several days since the

X. Y. people
but they give
his

arrived from the

us no

Grand Portage

news of Mr.

c Gillies

and

company;

neither would they, were their condition ever so

108
bad.

harmon's journal.

Neither company

will

convey to the other

all

the least intelligence, that at

fairs in this country.

concerns their

af-

lock upon the X. Y.

their territories
since the
this
;

The North West Company Company as encroachers upon

I

and,

think, with
first

some reason,
the

former company
;

led

way

into

savage country

while the latter people think,

that the former have no

more

right to trade in this

part of the world, than themselves.

This jarring

of interests, keeps up continual misunderstandings,

and occasions frequent

ing parties
risen, that
;

broils

between the contendenmity

instances,

and

to such a height has their

it

has, in several

occasioned

blood shed.

But here the murderer escapes with;

out punishment
its

for the civil

law does not extend

I

protection, so far into the wilderness.

under-

stand,

however, that measures are

in

contemplaevil.

tion in England,

which

will

remedy
I

this

If

something should not be done soon,

us

fear

many

of

may

lose our lives

Wednesday, 19.
fallen.

About

six

inches of snow have

Mr.

M Gillies
f

and company arrived from

letters
I

the

Grand Portage, and delivered me

friends in the United States
in
;

from

my

and

rejoiced to

hear that they were

Saturday, 22.

health and prosperity.

This afternoon, one of ourmei^

;

an Iroquois, died
tion

and

it

is

thought the founda-

was

laid for his death,

by too great an exer-

Harmon's journal.
tion of his strength at the portages,

109
on his

way

inis

to

the

country.

The death
by
6.

of our
this

people

not unfrequently occasioned

circumstance.
ult.

Sunday, November

On the

28th

we

sent

eight of our men, on horseback, into the plains,

to look for buffaloes
ing,
;

and they returned

this

even-

with their horses loaded with the flesh of

those animals.
days'

They
this.

say that they are

still

three

march from

Tuesday, December 27.

Messrs.

Henry and

Goedike,
sent,

my
I

companions and friends, are both ab-

on excursions into two different parts of the

sensibly feel the loss of their society,

country.

and

pass, occasionally, a solitary hour,

which w ould
r

glide

away
time
in

imperceptibly,
I

in

their

company.
and then

When
of
I

they are absent,

spend the greater part

my

reading and writing.

Now

take a ride on horseback, in the neighbourhood

fort,

of the

and occasionally

I visit

our neighbours,
is

drawn

in

a cariol by horses,
if it
is
c

if

the snow

light,
I

or by dogs,

deep.

This afternoon,
to

ac-

companied Mr.

M Giliies,
This
lies

pay a

visit

to our

X. Y. neighbours.

Wednesday, February 22, 1804.

or Fishing Lake.

Lac La Peche,

about two day's march

into the large plains,

west from Alexandria, which 15th ultimo, accompanied by

I

place

left on the

twelve

of our

people.

have come here to

110

Harmon's journal.

pass the winter, by the side of the X. Y. people.

For some time

rose

after our

arrival,

we

subsisted on

buds, a kind of food neither very palatable

in

nor nourishing, which we gathered

the

fields.

They were
just support

better than nothing, since

life.

they would

When we
not, as

should procure any

the buffaloes at that

thing better,

knew

time, in consequence of the mild weather,

were a

great distance, out in the

large

plains,

and

my

hunters could find neither moose nor deer.

We
not

hoped, however, that a merciful

suffer us to starve
;

God would

and that hope has not been

disappointed,

for

abundance, for
ful.

we have now provisions in which we endeavour to be thankI

On
ters

the llth instant,

took one of

my

interpre-

and ten labouring men with me, and proceed-

ed several days' march into the wilderness, where

we

found a

camp

of upwards of thirty lodges of

Crees and Assiniboins, of

whom we made
a
hill,

good

purchase of furs and provisions.

camped on the summit of

was low and
as the
level.

They were enwhence we had an

extensive view of the surrounding country, which

Not a
;

tree could be seen, as far

eye could extend

to

and thousands of
in different

buffa-

loes

were

be seen grazing,
kill

parts of
in

the plain.
large bands,

In order to

them, the Natives

mount their horses, run them down

Harmon's journal.

Ill

and shoot, with their bows and arrows, what number they please, or drive them into parks and
kill

them

at

their

leisure.

In

fact,

those

Indians,

who

reside in the large plains or prairies, are the

most independent, and appear to be the most contented and happy people upon the face
earth.
loe,

of the

They

subsist

upon the

flesh of

the buffa-

and of the skins of that animal they make

is

the greatest part of their clothing, which

both

warm and
also

convenient.

Their

tents

and beds are

made of the

skins of the

same

animal.

The

Crees and Assiniboins

procure

their

livelihood with so

much ease, that they have but little to confine them at home. They therefore employ much of their time, in waging war with
their neighbours.

Thursday

March h
in this

Es-qui-an-a-wach-a,
;

or

the last Mountain, or rather Hill

for there are

no mountains

part of the country.

Here

arrived this evening, having left

the 28th ultimo, in

Lac La Peche on
interpreter

company with my
I

and seven men.

at a short distance

The men,
from
;

ordered to encamp
to join

this,
it is

and

me

early

tomorrow morning
safe,

as

more convenient and

are not
in

especially

when we

our

forts,

to give the Indians spirits to drink in the

day time,
invit-

than

in the night.

On

our arrival,

we were

ed

to the tents of several of the

principal Indians,

112
to eat

Harmon's journal.

and smoke our pipes. Indians show great

they have

hospitality to strangers, before

been

long acquainted with civilized people, after which,

they adopt many of their customs

but they are

by no means always gainers, by the exchange.

Monday,

5.

On

the

2nd, the remainder of

I

our people arrived, and soon after,

dealing out spirits to the Natives
tinued to drink during
ing night.
all
;

commenced

and they con-

that day

and the follow-

We

were, therefore, prevented from

resigning ourselves to sleep.

dians are
naturally

For though the

toward

In-

well

disposed

the
us.

white people, and seldom begin a quarrel with

and

will

even receive many

to'

insults,

before they

attempt

defend themselves; yet when drunk,

they often behave like

mad men

or devils, and

need

to be narrowly
I

watched.
sent six of

This morning,
fort

my

people to the

with sledges loaded with furs and provisions, in

order to obtain another supply of goods, to enable us to go and trade with another large band

of Indians,
this, into

who
6.

are about two days'

march from

the plains.

Tuesday,

North side of the Great DeviVs Lake,

it,

or as the Natives call

Much-c-man-e-to Sa-ky-eto,

gun.

As

had nothing of importance to attend

and was desirous of seeing

while our people would be absent in their trip to

and from the

fort,

my

Harmon's journal.
friend

113

Henrj, who,

understood, was about half a

I

days'

march from where

was the

last night,

therefore, set off this morning, accompanied by an

Indian lad

who

serves as a guide, with the inten-

tion of visiting this place.

After walking

all

day,

without finding either

wood

or water, and but

few inches of snow,

a small grove, at

just as the sun

was descending

below the horizon, we thought that we descried

a considerable distance, directly
as to

before

us.

So

long, therefore,

the light

re-

mained,

we

directed

our course

that object

but as soon as the day light

ing

failed,

we had

noth-

by which

to

guide ourselves, excepting the

stars,

which, however, answered very well, until

faint twinkling

even their

was utterly obscured by

we were inveloped in total darkness. In this forlorn condition, we thought it best to continue our march as well as we could for we
clouds, and
;

were unwilling
freezing.

to lie

down, with
us,

little

or nothing

with which to cover

and keep ourselves from

There was no wood, with which we could make a fire, nor buffaloe dung, which often serves as fuel, when travelling about in those
plains.

Neither could we
fire,

find

water to drink

and without
this

we

could not melt the snow, for

purpose.

We

suffered

much
thirst.

for

want of wa-

ter, as
ions,

we had

nothing to eat but very dry provis-

which greatly excited

15

To be depriv-

114

marmon's journal.
is

ed of drink for one day,

more

distressing than to
It

be destitute of food for two.

would not have

fire
;

been safe

for

us to encamp, without a

for

we should have been

continually

exposed to be

trodden upon by the large herds of buffaloes, that

are perpetually roving about
in

the plains, or to

be devoured by the wolves, which ever follow the

buffaloe.

We

therefore continued travelling, un-

certain whither

we were going, until at length, the dogs that drew my sledge, suddenly passed by us, as if they saw some uncommon object, directly before us.
their motion,

We

did not attempt to impede

but followed

them

as

fast

as

we
dogs

could, until

they brought us to the place

where

we now
should
tance
;

are.

It is

almost incredible that

this

my

have
for

smelt

camp

at

such

a dis-

we walked

vigorously

no

less

than

four hours after they passed us, before

we

arrived

here.

We

are

happy

in finding fifteen tents

of Crees

and Assiniboins,
of this country
;

who want
and
I

for

none of the dainties

meet, as usual, with a very

hospitable reception.

The

mistress of the tent

dogs,

where

am, unharnessed
into a safe

my
to

and put

my

sledge, &c.,

place.

She was

then

proceeding
labour,
I

to

give

food

my

dogs,

which
for

offered to

do

myself;

but she told

me

to

remain quiet and smoke

my

pipe,

Harmon's journal.
she added,
44

115
of,

they shall be taken good care

in

and

will

be as safe
in

my
I

hands, as they would be

it

were they

your own."

Notwithstanding
rose,
to
tents,

was
late

near midnight

when

arrived, yet at that

hour, the most of the

Indians

and many of
eat

them

invited

me
all

to

their

few

mouthfuls, and to

smoke the
in

sociable pipe.

But now,
over; and
self
I

those necessary ceremonies are

am happy
bufFaloe

being able to lay my-

down on
fire,

robes,

by the

side

of a

warm
march

expecting to obtain sweet and refresh-

ing repose,

which nature requires,

If I
to

after a day's
for

so fatiguing.

was ever thankful

find

any of God's favours,

it is,

myself here

among

friends,

and

in

comfortable circumstances,
I

when, a few hours before, whole

place

expected to wander

with weariness, anxiety and danger, during the

night, in the
7.

open

plain.

Wednesday,
is

Canadian's

Camp.
that
a

This

so called

from the

fact,

number
path

of our people have

passed the greater part of

is

the winter here.

As there
where
I

good

foot

from the place

this place, I left

slept the last night to

my young

guide, and
I

alone.

Frequently on the way,

came here met Indians,

who
I

are going to join those at the

in

Devil's Lake.

came here
friend,

the pleasing expectation of seeing

;

my

Henry

but

am

disappointed.

Yes-

116

harmon's journal.

terday morning,

he set out for

satisfaction,

Alexandria.

hope

to

have the

however, of soon
six

meeting him

at the fort.-

here find

Canadians
winter
flesh
in

with their families,

in this vicinity,

who have
which

passed the

and have subsisted upon the

animals
to

of

the

bufFaloe,

are

found

plenty.

The

people appear

be

happy

in

their situation. belly

full

Indeed, a Canadian, with

is

his

of fat meat,
9.

never otherwise.
In

Friday,

JYorth side of DeviPs Lake.

I left

the morning,

the Canadian's

afternoon reached this place,

Camp, and this where I found my

young guide, waiting my

a chief,

return.

He

is

the son of

among

the Crees

and Assiniboins.

His

grandfather was Monsieur Florimeaux, a French-

man, who passed a number of years

country.
son,

in

the Indian
his

When

he went

to

Canada, he took

the father of

my young guide, along

to send

with him,

as far as

Quebec, intending
lad,

him

to France.

But the

who was
in

then twelve or thirteen

years old, did not like to leave his native country.

After remaining
fore,

Canada

for

some
a

time, there-

he deserted and returned to

this part

of the

world, where he, in time,

rior,

became

famous warrespect-

and

at length, a chief.

He

is

much
is is

ed and beloved by
his

his relatives,

and

revered by
affectionate,
fortu-

own

family.

As
is

a husband he
kind.
It

and as a father he

was perhaps

117
nate for him that lie did not go to France
;

for, I

am persuaded he
in this

could

not

have

lived

more

happily and at ease, in any part of the world, than

independent country, which

all

is

abundantly

supplied with

of the necessaries, and

many of

the luxuries of

life.

Saturday, 10.
plain.

Early

in

of an extensive the morning, accompanied by my

our
I

In the middle

young guide,
to the place

I left

last night's lodgings, to

go

where

expect to find

my

people,

which

is

about two days' march further into the

I

great plain, than where

preter, on the

separated from

my
all

inter-

6th

inst.

After walking

day,

without finding either

o'clock at night,

wood

or water, at eight
to lay ourlittle rest.
;

we have concluded
snow melted a

selves down, in order if possible, to get a

In the day time, the

little

but in

the evening

it

has frozen hard, and our feet and

our legs, as high as our knees, are so

much

cover;

ed w ith
T

ice,

that

we

cannot take of our shoes

and

having nothing with which to

to
on.

make

a fire, in order

thaw them, we must pass the night with them

more

serious evil

is,

the risk

me must

run

of being killed

by wild

beasts.

Sunday, 11.
calls.

Ca-ta-buy-se-pu, or the River that

is

This stream

so

named by the

supersti-

tious Natives,

ly going

who imagine that a spirit is constantup or down it and they say that they
;

118
often hear
its

Harmon's journal.
voice distinctly, which resembles the
being.
I

cry of a

human

The

last night

was so unin

pleasant to me, that

could not sleep, arising

I

part from the constant fear which

ing torn in
beasts.

was -in, of be-

pieces

before the
to a

morning, by wild

Despondency
spirit.

degree took possession

of

my

But the

light of the

morning
mind,
its

dissi-

pated
al

my

fears,

and restored

to

my

usu-

cheerfulness.

As soon

as the

light of

day aplain,

peared,

we
us.

left

the place where

we had

not
fall-

a little pleased, that the wild beasts

had not
all

en upon
here
I

It

has snowed and rained

interpreter,

day.
or

find

my

and eighty

tents,

nearly two hundred men, with their families.

Along the banks of

cies of the

this

rivulet,

there

is

a little

timber, consisting principally of the inferiour spe-

maple
to

but no where else,

is

there

even a shrub
try
is

be seen.

The

surrounding coun-

a barren plain,

where nothing grows exceptfrom

six to eight inches
in

ing grass,

which

rises

height, and furnishes food for the buffaloe.

Here
ception.

again, as usual,

meet with

a kind refar

These Indians seldom come thus

to

into the plains, as the part of the

country where
Indians.

we now are, belongs white man was never

so far.

the

Rapid

before known, to penetrate

Wednesday, 14.

Last evening

my

people re-

Harmon's journal.
turned from the fort
its

119

and as

now had

spir-

for the Natives, they,

of course, drank during

the whole night.

a terrible noise.
its

Being so numerous, they made

They

stole a small

keg of

spir-

from

us,

and one of them attempted

to stab

me.

The

knife

went through

ed the skin of
Indian
child,

my

body.
this

my clothesvand just grazTo day 1 spoke to the

his father,
tie

who made
and
said,

attempt, and he cried like a

he had nearly killed

I

meaning me, and asked me why

did not

him,

when he had lost the use ple inform me that there

there
is

of his reason.
is little
;

My
we
left

peo-

or no snow, for

three days' march from this

but that after that,

an abundance,

all

the

way

to the fort.

Friday, 16.
Indians'

About twelve
;

o'clock,

the

camp
is

but being heavily loaded, consideris

ing there

no snow and our property

drawn by
After

we made slow we had encamped, we sent our

dogs on sledges,

progress.

dogs,

which are
;

twenty two

in

number, after the buffaloe

and

they soon stopped one of them,

when one

of our

party went and killed him with an axe, for

we

have not a gun with

us.

It

is,

however, impruwithout
fire

dent for us to venture thus

for

far,

arms

every white man, when

all

in this

savage country,

ought at

times to be well armed.

little

Then he
$

need be under
for Indians,

apprehension of an attack

when

sober, are not inclined to

hazard

120
their lives, and

Harmon's journal.

when they apprehend danger from

North West end of DeviVs Lake.

quarrelling, will remain quiet and peaceable.

Saturday, 17.
7

The w eather is extremely mild, for the season. The surrounding country is all on fire but happily for us, we are encamped in a swampy place.
;

When

the

fire

passes over the

plains,

which

cir-

cumstance happens almost yearly, but generally

later than this, great

numbers of horses and

animals
stand perfectly

buffasur-

loes are destroyed

for those

when
until

rounded by

fire, will

still,

they

are burned to death.

This

evening,

we
as

killed an-

other buffaloe, in the

one, the last evening.

same manner

we

killed

Sunday, 18.
see

The weather
As
I

is still

mild, and

we

many
in

grass-hoppers,

which appear unusually

found that

early

the season.

we were
about

coming on too slowly with our heavy

twelve o'clock,
three of
I left

loads,

our property

in

charge of

my

people, and,am going to the fort with

the others, for horses to

come for it. This afternoon we met several of the X. Y. but from people, who were in search of Indians
;

the
v

information

they received

from

us,

they

thought them
are,

at too

great a distance, and they

therefore,

accompanying us to the fort.

the same success has attended us this evening,

which we met with the two preceding days,

in re-

Harmon's journal.

121
Indeed,
in

gard to supplying ourselves with food.

these plains, where
not customary, nor
travelling, to

buffaloes

are numerous,

it is

is it

needful for people

who

are

burden themselves with provisions

fire

for if they

have

arms, they can always

kill

sufficiency for

the day.

This renders travelling

cheap and convenient.

Thursday, 22.
arrived, and
I
I

Lac

la

Peche.

Here we have

am happy in
Yet
it

reaching a place, where

can take a

little

repose, after so long and fatig-

uing a jaunt.

has been in

many

respects,

both pleasant and profitable.

i

The

country which

travelled over

was beautifully situated, and over-

spread with buffaloes, and various other kinds of

animals, as well as

many other

delightful objects,

which
view.

in

succession presented themselves to our

things

These

made the day

glide

away

al-

most imperceptibly.

But there were

tinges,
;

when
they,

my

situation

was

far

from being agreeable

all

however, soon passed away, and we

for his protection,

have abun-

dant reason to render thanks to a kind Providence,

and

for our

safe

return to our

,home and our

families.

At three
losing
tives.

different times, while performing the

I

tour above described,

was

in

great danger of

my

life,

by the

evil

machinations of the Na-

One escape has been already mentioned, when one of them attempted to stab me. While
16

122
I

harmon's journal.
spirits to

was dealing out

the Savages, at the last

inst.

mountain, on the night of the 5th

an Indian,

who was much

bly,

intoxicated, told me, that I should

;

never see another sun arise

intended to
I

and he, unquestionanight following, af-

kill

me.

The

ter
I

arrived at the north side of the Devil's Lake,

was well received by the greater part of the Na;

tives there

but as

have since been informed,

to

one of

them had resolved

take

my

life.

And

yet, this villain invited

it,

me

to his tent,

and

I visited

without suspicion.

executing his purpose

He was prevented from by my host, who was ac;

quainted with his purpose, and told him that he

must

first

despatch him
is
6

for,

he added,
is

Kitch-e-

mo-cum-mon' (that
that they give me,)

Big Kife, which

is

the

name

my
his

brother, and has taken

it

up

his lodging

with me, and

therefore becomes

me
to

to

defend him and

property.'

No

Indian

will suffer a stranger, if

he be able to defend him. and under

his pro-

be injured, while

in his tent,

tection.'

Therefore, he
it

who had

intended

to

massacre me, thought

best to remain quiet.

This
I

hostile Indian

was a friend him

;

to

had nothing against me, but that a person who he considered had
as this person

injured

and

was

at a great dis-

tance, and therefore

beyond

his reach,

he was reIt
is

solved to avenge the affront upon me.

the

custom of

all

the Savages, not to be very partial-

Harmon's journal.
lar

123
falls,

on

whom

the punishment of an offence

guilty person, or a relation or

whether the
pens to

friend

of this person.

The
his

first

of these

whom

he hap-

meet, becomes the object of his ven^

geance

and then
lift

wrath

is

appeased, and he will

not even

his

hand against the person who has

Yesterday, Mr. F. Goedike ar-

offended him.

Saturday, 24.

rived from Alexandria, and delivered

me

letter

me to abandon Lac la Peche, and proceed, with all my people, to Alexandria. In the fore part of the day, we all left There is a woman with us, bethe former place. longing to one of our men, who has walked the
from Mr.
c Gillies,

requesting

whole day,

in

the snow and

birth to a son.
^Alexandria.

water, and who, this

evening, gave

Tuesday, 27.
this afternoon.

Here we
it

arrived
inst.

The woman who,

child, took

on the 24th

was delivered of a

on her shoulders

the day following, and continued her march, as

though nothing unusual had occurred

very happy circumstance, that the

It

is

women

of this

country are blessed with such strong constitutions,

as

they would otherwise be utterly unable to en-

dure the hardships to which they are often exposed,

and particularly

in child-birth.

Monday,
river broke

April 9.
;

Yesterday, the ice

in this

up

and to day,

we

sent off four

men

124
in a boat,

Harmon's journal.
loaded with pimican, to be transported
of Winipick River.

as far as the entrance

The

country

all

around

us, is

on

fire.

Sunday, 29.

Yesterday, the greater part of

our people set out for

Mr.
left,

c Gillies,

Swan River; and to day, and the most of those who were
for

have departed

the

New

Fort, which

is

distant about forty five

miles, to

the north

west

from the former general rendezvous, the Grand

Portage, which the Americans have obliged us to

abandon.
It is

thought necessary that

at this place
;

should pass anI

other

summer

but

am happy

in

having with

me my

friends

Henry and Goedike.

and several
children.

There are here

also one interpreter

labouring men, besides

women and

We
;

are preparing a piece of ground for a garden, the

cultivation of which, will

be an amusement

and

the produce of
forts.

it,

we

hope, will add to our comviolin,

Mr. Goedike plays the

cheer our
spirits,

and
air.

will occa-

sionally

with an
is

But the

most of our leisure time, which

at least five

sixths of the whole, will be spent in reading, and

in

meditating and conversing upon what

valuable
is

we

read.

How

the art, which multiplies books,

with great

facility,

and

at a

moderate expense.

Without them the wheels of time would drag

heavily, in this wilderness.

Harmon's journal.
Tuesday,
into the

125

May

22.

The

seeds which
inst.

we

put

ground on the 10th

have sprung up,

and grow remarkably well.

Tuesday, 29.
hours,
I
it

During the

last
;

forty

eight
I

has rained without cessation

fall

and

think

never witnessed so great a

of water, within

the same space of time.

The

river has overflowis

it,

ed

its

banks, to a

much

greater distance than

is

common; and our garden, which now lies under water.

Thursday, 31.
Collin,

not far from

In the morning, Mr. Goedike,

my

interpreter, a

young lad

arid myself, set

off for the

purpose of paying a

visit

to our X. Y.

neighbours.

On

leaving the fort,

we had

the river
is

to cross, which, in consequence of the late rains,

about sixty rods broad.

ing
it

Our

only means ofNirossskins of buffaloes,

it

was a canoe, made of the

which, on account of the length of time that

had been
fore

in

the water, began to be

rotten.

Be-

we reached
it

the other side of the river, the

filled

canoe was nearly half

with water.

We

drew
had

on shore, mounted our horses, visited our

place

neighbours, and returned to the

left

where we

our canoe, at about three o'clock P.

it

M.

Having repaired

little,

we embarked,
fort.

for the

purpose of returning to the

ceived that the water
fast
;

We
the
in

soon per-

came

into

canoe very

and

we

continued paddling,

hope of reach-

126

Harmon's journal.
it

ing the apposite shore, before

would

fill.

We

were^ however, sadly disappointed; for

full,

it

became

when we had gone about one

;

third of the dis-

tance

but

it

did not immediately overset.

The

water, in that place, was about five feet deep

but the current was strong, and

to a place

it

soon carried us

where we could not reach the bottom,

and the canoe overset.

We

all

clung to

it

and,

thus drifted a considerable distance, until

the ca-

noe was, at length, stopped by a few willows,

whose tops rose above the water.

Here

had a

moment,

in

which

could reflect on our truly de-

plorable condition, and direct

my

thoughts to the
if possible,

means of

relief.

My

first

object was,

to gain the shore, in order to free myself

clothes,,

from

my

which

could not do where

then was.

But

my

great coat, a heavy poniard, boots, &c.

it

rendered

very

difficult

for

me

to

swim

and

had become
been so long

so torpid, in consequence of having

in the cold water, that

before

had
1

proceeded one third of the way to the shore,

sunk, but soon

rose again, to the surface of the

water.

then exerted myself to the utmost;

I

but, notwithstanding, soon sunk a second time.

now
and

considered that

must

inevitably

drown;
view,

the objects of the world retired from

my

my mind was
;

intent only

upon approaching

death

yet

was not

afraid to

meet

my dissolu-

Harmon's journal.
tion.* I

127

however made a few

bank of the

struggles more,

which

happily took me to a small tree that stood on what is

usually the
river, but
I

which is now some

rods distant from dry land.

remained there for

sometime, to recover strength, and at length pro-

ceeded
it,

to the shore

and* as soon as

had gained

my mind

rose in ardent gratitude to

my

gra-

cious Preserver and deliverer,

me from
on shore

the
;

who had snatched / was now safe very jaws of death

!

but the condition of

my

unfortunate
still

companions, was far different.

hold of the canoe
in

They had

the middle of the river, and

by struggling were just able to keep themselves

from
to

sinking.

We had no

other craft, with which

go upon the water, nor could any of our people

swim,

who were

standing on the shore, the

melI

ancholly spectators of this scene of distress.

therefore took
off

my

clothes,

and threw myself,

if possible,

a second time, into the water, in order,

to afford

some

aid to

my

companions.

When
I

had reached the place where they were,

ed the boy, to take hold of the hair of
and
I

direct-

my

head,

took him

to a staddle, at

no great distance,
lost condition

* For at that time,

was ignorant of my

by

nature, and of the necessity of being clothed in a better righ-

teousness than

my

own,

to

prepare

me

to

appear with safety

before a holy God, in judgment.

128

Harmon's journal.
fast

and directed him to lay

hold of

it,

by which

means he would be able

of his body above water.

to

keep the greater part

I

then returned to the

canoe, and took Collin to a similar place.

Mr.

Goedike had alone proceeded

and would have reached
the
the

to a small staddle,

shore,

had not
I

cramp
to

seized him in one of his legs.

next

tried

take

the
it.

canoe
I

ashore,

but
to

could
the op-

not alone effect

posite

therefore,

swam

shore, caught
to

a horse and mounted him,

and made him swim

the canoe, at one end of

which

tied a cord,

and taking the other end

in

my

teeth and hands, after drifting a considerable

I

distance,

reached the land.

After repairing the

canoe a

little, I

proceeded to

my

three wretched

fellow creatures,

who
the

had, by this time,

in

become

nearly

lifeless,

having been
aid

the water at least

two hours.

By

of a kind Providence,

however, they at
expected
escape,

last safely

reached the shore

and so deeply were they affected with their unthat

they

prostrated

them-

selves to the earth, in an

act of thanksgiving, to
,

their great and merciful Deliverer.

Sunday, July
berries,

1.

We now

begin to have strawthat

and the prospect

is,

they

will

be

abundant.

Tuesday, 17.
dians ran

On

the

8th

instant,

some
;

In-

away with

tfyree

of our horses

and on

harmon's journal.
the following morning, Mr.

129

Goedike and myself

mounted two
taining

others, to pursue the thieves.

We
ascerus,

followed them for two

that they were
fast,

days, and
so far
it

then,

in

advance of

and travelled so

that

would be impossible

to overtake them, before they would reach their

camp, which

is

six or

seven days' march from

this,

we ceased

following them.

We

directed our

course another way, for

the

purpose of finding

bufFaloe, but without success.

ed ed

as

many

fowls, in

the

We, however, killsmall lakes, as we need;

for daily

consumption
fort,

and

this

evening re-

turned to the
pleasant ride.

having had on the whole a

We

have had a

frost,

so hard, that

it

has

in-

jured many things

Wednesday, 25.
with
six horses,

in

our garden.

An

Indian has arrived here

who

states, that

he came directly

from the territory of the Black feet Indians.

He

brings the intelligence, that this tribe have con-

cluded a peace with the Crees and Assiniboins;

and that forty tents of the latter

into that quarter,

tribes,

who went
on their
before the

two years

since,

are

way home, and will reach commencement of winter.

Saturday, September
1.

this place

This afternoon,
fort

Mr

Ferguson and company arrived, from

phin, bringing the intelligence, that
all

Dau-

the Indians

17

130

hArmon

journal.

who

are accustomed to remain in that vici

to the

have now gone

Thursday,
Francis la

Great Winipick
4.

lake.

October

This afternoon, Mr.

Rocque
lies

arrived,

from Montagne a

la

Basse, which

about

five days'

march from

this,

down

the river.

He

brought

me

letters

from
is

several gentlemen in this country, one of which

from Mr. Charles Chaboillez, who informs me that

this place will be

supplied with goods, this season,

by the way of the

Red

River, of which depart-

ment he has the superintendence.

pass the winter here, he desires

As
to

am

to

me

accompa-

ny Mr. La Rocque, down

the Indians at this post.

to

Montagne
will

a la Basse,

and receive such goods as

Friday, 26.

be necessary for

Agreeably
in

to the instructions

of

Mr. Chaboillez,
the

company with Mr. La Rocque,

I

and an Indian, who served as guide,

6th
instant,

set out on

for

Montagne a

la

Basse.

Our
;

course

was nearly south, over a plain country

and on the 9th, we

reached Riviere qui Apelle,

West and X. Y. companies have each a fort, where we tarried all night, with Monsieur Poitras, who has charge of that post. The next morning, we continued our march, which
where the North
was always
in

beautiful

plains,

until

the

11th,

when we arrived at There I found Mr.

the

place of our

destination.
c Kenzie,

Chaboillez, C.

&c.

Harmon's journal.

131

The

fort

is

well

b*uilt,

and beautifully situated, on

a very high bank of the

Red

River, and over-

looks the country round to a great extent, which

is

a perfect plain.

There can be
grazing,

seen, at almost

all

seasons of the year^ from

the fort gate, as I

or

am
fail

informed,

buffaloes

antelopes

bounding over the extensive

plains,

which cannot

to render the situation highly pleasant. I spent

my
in

time there very pleasantly, during eight days,

company with the gentlemen above mentioned. At times, we would mount our horses, and ride
out into the plains, and frequently try

the speed

of our beasts.

On

the 19th,

I left

that enchanting

abode,

company with Messrs. Chaboillez, Kenzie, &c, and the day following, arrived at Riviere qui Apelle, where we found the peoThey came here by ple, waiting our arrival. water ; but at this season, canoes go up no furin
c

ther, on account of the

shallowness of the river.

therefore,

The
ingly,

goods intended for Alexandria,

this

must be taken from

on horse back.

Accord-

we delivered

out to the people such articles

as

we thought

necessary, and sent

them

off;

and

the day following, Mr, Chaboillez c Kenzie and myMontagne a la Basse, and Mr. self proceeded to Alexandria, where we arrived

returned to

this afternoon, after

having made a pleasant jaunt

of twenty one days.

132

Harmon's journal.
I shall

Here

pass the winter, having with

me

Mr. Goedike, two interpreters, twenty labouring men, fourteen

women and

sixteen children.

Saturday, November 24.

just arrived

Some people have

la

from Montague a

Basse, with a

letter

from Mr. Chaboillez, who informs me, that

two Captains, Clarke and Lewis, with one hundred and eighty soldiers, have arrived at the Man-

dan Village on the Missouri River, which place

is

situated about three

days'

march
them.

distant

from
in-

the residence of Mr. Chaboillez.

vited

They have
It is

Mr. Chaboillez

to

visit

said,

that on their arrival,

flag,

they hoisted the American

and informed the Natives that their object

to trade, but

was not
try
;

merely to explore the counshall open,

and that as soon as the navigation

they design to continue their route across the

Rocky Mountain, and thence descend to the PaThey made the Natives a few small cific Ocean. presents, and repaired their guns, axes, &c, gratis.
Mr. Chaboillez
writes, that they

behave honourto trade

ably toward his people,

who

are there

with the Natives.

Tuesday, January 21,1805. For nearly a month,

we have

subsisted on little besides potatoes

last night,

but

thanks to a kind Providence, the

two of

my men

returned from the plains, with their sledg-

es loaded with the flesh of the buffaloe.

They

Harmon's journal.
bring us the pleasing intelligence, that there

133
is

plenty of these animals within a day's march of us.

This supply of provisions could not have come

more opportunely,
gone.

for our

potatoes are almost

About

month

since, I sent

Mr. Goedike,
the

ac-

companied by ten men, out

hopes that they might
fall

into

plains, in

in

with the Natives,

;

who would be

able to furnish us with food

I

but

we have heard nothing from them, and

as I did not expect that they

cannot

conjecture what should have detained them so long,

would be absent,

for

more than ten days, from the fort. At the most of the Thursday, February 7.
forts in the

Swan River department, they have

;

not a sufficiency of provisions

therefore, sent the greater
ple,

and they have

their peo-

number of

to pass the

remainder of the winter here.

We

now have

bufFaloe in abundance, though our

family consists of upwards of seventy persons,

who

consume, at
daily.

least,

four hundred and

fifty

pounds,

Thursday, 19.
rived from
letters,

On

the 8th
la

inst.

two men

ar-

Montagne a

Basse, with a packet of

informing me, that a coalition took place,

the last autumn at Montreal^

between the North

letters I

West and the X. Y. companies, which

have forwarded to Fort des
Prairies.

134

Harmon's journal.

On
from
and

the 16th

inst. I left this, in

a cariol,

by a horse,

to visit a place, about

two days'

drawn march

this, into

the plains,

were a number of our

people have passed a greater part of the winter

in

the course of this pleasant ride,

saw thou-

sands of buffaloes.

Saturday,

March

2.

People arrived from Fort

des Prairies, with letters from that place, the

English River, and Athabasca.

Yesterday, swans
T

passed

this

place,

on their

w ay

to

the

north-

ward.

Monday, 18. A band of Crees and Assiniboins came in, a few days since, consisting of more than a hundred persons. As they brought a considerable quantity of furs and provisions, they

were able

to purchase a large supply of spirits for several

days, and of course continued drinking, until their

means were exhausted.

wound, however,
injury has

During

this

period, one

of the Assiniboins stabbed one of the Crees.

is

not thought to be mortal.

for,

The The

been atoned

therefore, by a horse,

presented by the aggressor, to the wounded Indian

;

and now, they appear to

as

be as great
quarrel took

friends,

they were before

the

place.
It is

common

thing

among

all

the Natives,

for an offender to offer property in satisfaction for

Im

injury

and when

this is

accepted by the

in-

Harmon's journal.
jured
ceases.

135
entirely
in

party,

contention

between them
is,

Even
;

murder

sometimes,

this

way, atoned for

but not commonly.

In ordinary

cases, nothing but the

death of the murderer, or of

will

some of

his

near relations,

satisfy the desire

of revenge in an Indian,

whose

relative

has been

murdered.
Wednesday, April
10.

On

the 24th

ult. I

set

out on horse back, accompanied by one man, for

Montagne a la Basse. When we arrived there, we were not a little surprised to find the fort
gates shut, and about eighty tents of Cre.es and
Assiniboins
it,

encamped
They,
in

in

a hostile
all

manner, around
the white peo-

and threatening to massacre

it.

ple in
balls

a menacing manner,

threw

over the palisades, and told our people to

gather them up, declaring that they would probably have use for

them

in

the course of a few days.

I

After having passed several days there,

to return

set out

home.

Just as

had gotten out of the

approached me,
horse by the bridle

fort gate, three villainous Indians

and one of them seized

my

and stopped him, saying, that the beast belonged

to him,
I

and that

he would take him from me.

to

told

him that he had disposed of him

Mr.

Chaboillez,

who had charge

of the post

and that

of this gentleman,

I had purchased him, and that I had no concern with the matter, which was whol-

136
ly

Harmon's journal.

between him and Mr. Chaboillez. Perceiving, however, that he was determined not to let go of the bridle, I gave him a smart blow on his hand,
with the but end of

my

whip, which consisted of

a deer's horn, and instantly striking

my

horse,

caused him to spring forward, and leave the Indian

behind.
low,
I

Finding myself thus clear of this

fel-

continued

my

rout

but he with one of his

if

companions, followed us nearly half of the day,

not longer.

After

this

length of time

we saw no

more of them.
might
fall

Apprehensive, however, that they

us in

upon

our encampment at night,

and

steal our horses,

it

and probably massacre

us,

after

path,

became dark, we went a little out of the but w e dared not and laid ourselves down
;
r

make

fire, lest

the light or the

smoke should

discover the place where

we were.
company of a number

On my

return, I passed four days agreeably, at

in
I

Riviere qui Apelle,

of gentlemen,
that place,
I

the

whom

found there.
to cross the

On

leaving

was obliged

river,

and

at this late season, the

ice

was bad.

My

horse,

while

was on him, feli^through the

I

ice twice,

and
it

the last time,

came very near passing under

but a kind Providence once more, granted

liverance.

me

de-

While
induced

at

Montagne a

la Basse,

Mr. Chaboillez,

me

to consent

to

undertake a long and

#
Harmon's journal.
arduous tour of discovery.
I

137
to leave that

am

place, about the beginning of June,

accompanied

by

six

or seven Canadians, and by two or three In-

The first place, at which we shall stop, will be the Mandan Village, on the Missouri River. Thence, we shall steer our course towards the Rocky Mountain, accompanied by a number of the Mandan Indians, who proceed in that didians.

rection every spring, to

tribe of Indians,

meet and trade with another

expected that we
in

who

reside on the other side of

It
is

the

Rocky Mountain.
next.
I

shall return

from our excursion,

the

month of

November

[This journey,
ter the plan of
it

never undertook
settled,
I

for soon af-

was

my

health became

so

much

impaired, that

was under the necessity

of proceeding to
ical assistance.
;

Head

Quarters, to procure med-

Mr. La Rocque attempted to

farther than the

make this tour but went no Mandan Village.]

Thursday, 18.

We
I

are packing our furs, in

order to send them to the general rendezvous

and a few days hence, and the Indians

shall

abandon

this

fort,

in this vicinity will

go either into
Sisis-

the region of Riviere qui Apelle, or up the

catchwin River, near Fort des Prairies.

Sunday,

May

5.

We
18

leagues below Alexandria,

now about which place we

are

three

aban-

138

Harmon's journal.
ult.

doned on the 28th

board of boats
back.
;

All our

property

is

on

but some of us travel on horse-

As

it

has not rained since the last Autumn,

is

the water in the river

uncommonly low, on

ac-

count of which, our boats

make

but poor progress.

As we have a pit saw with us, I have directed some of my people to go into the woods, and saw a
sufficient quantity

of boards, to construct another

load-

boat,

by means of which, we may reduce the

ing, in those that Ave

now

possess.

Wednesday,

8.

Riviere

qui

Apelle.

On

the

6th Mr. Goedike and several other persons with

myself, left our boats, and proceeded on horse-

back.

As the
it

fire

has passed over the

difficulty

plains,

this spring,

was with
for

that

we

could
of our

find

grass,

sufficient

the

subsistence

horses.

Monday,

20.

Moniagne a

la

Basse.

Here

have been waiting ever

rival of our boats.

since the 15th for the ar-

They

arrived this afternoon.

Monday,
River.

27.
is

Riviere a la Souris, or

This

about

fifty

miles

Mouse from Montagne

a la Basse. Here are three establishments, formed severally by the North West, X. Y. and Hudson

Bay companies.
Last evening, Mr. Chaboillez invited the people

of the other two forts to a dance

real

and we had a

North West country

ball.

When three fourths

Harmon's journal.

139

pf the people had drunk so much, as to be incapable of walking straightly, the other fourth thought
it

time to put an end to the

ball,,

or rather bawl.
at the
in

This morning, we were invited to breakfast

Hudson Bay House, with

evening to a dance.

Mr.

M Kay, and
c

the

This, however, ended

more

decently, than the one of the preceding evening.

It
is

now more than

fifty

years, since a

French
informfor the

missionary

left this place.

He

had, as

am

ed, resided here, during a

number of years,
in

purpose of instructing the Natives

religion.

the Christian

He

taught them some short prayers, in

the French language, the whole of which some of

them have not yet

forgotten.
consists

The
plains
;

surrounding country

chiefly

of

and the
is

soil

appears to be richer, than

that

which

farther

up the

river.
I

Tuesday, 30.

In the

morning,

left

Mouse

River; and
in five

have with me upwards of forty men,

boats and seven canoes.

1.

Saturday, June

We

are

now

little
is

below
twenty
it

what was called the Pine Fort.

years since this fort was
built,

It

and eleven since

is

was abandoned.
ing

This River

now

so low, arisrain this

from the

fact that

we have had no

spring,

and we have such a number of boats and

canoes, that

we

drive the sturgeon upon the sand

is

banks,

where there
#

but

little

water

and we

140

hakmon's journal.
difficulty in killing

have no

any number of thena,

entirely on these

that Ave please.

fish
;

We

now subsist

and they are excellent food.

Portage
la Prairie,

Thursday, 13.
Portage.

or Plain

Here
fort,

the North

West company have

is

miserable
tiful,

the local situation of which,

I

beauin this
is

beyond any thing that

which

have seen
fort,

part of the world.

plain,
is

Opposite the

there

about sixty miles long, and from one

to ten broad, in the

least rise of

whole extent of which, not the

is

ground

visible.

To

this

place, the

Natives resort every spring, to take and dry sturgeon.

Saturday, 15.

We

are

now encamped under

Ever
since

a beautiful range of oaks, which separate the riv-

er from a pretty extensive plain.

left

Mouse River, the soil on each side of the per Red River, down which we are passing,
pears to be excellent, and the timber
is

we Upapdif-

very

ferent from

what

it

is

near

its

source.

We
I

here
in-

find oak, elm, walnut,

basswood, &c. and

am
in

formed that there are grapes and plums

vicinity.

this

Tuesday, 18.

Not

far

from the place where

we

are

large

now encamped, there is a considerably camp of Sauteux. Among them I saw an-

other of

one of

my whom

unfortunate countrymen, who, like

I

have already spoken, was taken

Harmon's journal.

141

from

his parents,

when

a child.

Thus, has many

a fond mother, in

the frontier settlements, been

deprived of her beloved and tender offspring.

but this fellow
is

lost,

beyond recovery,

for he

now
all

speaks no other language, but that of the Indians,

among whom he
their

resides,

and he has adopted

;

manners and customs

and
to the

it

would now be
habits

as difficult to reconcile

him

of

civil-

ized

life,

as

it

would
19.

be,

were he a

real Indian.

Wednesday,
the
tion.

The Forks.

At

this

place

Upper and Lower Red Rivers, form

a junc-

The

country around

is

pleasant, the soil ap-

pears to be excellent, and

it is

tolerably

well timas-

bered with oak, bass wood, walnut, elm, poplar,

pin, birch,

&c.

Grape

vines and

plum

trees are

also seen.

Friday, 21.
place,

We
is

are

now encamped

at the

where the Red River enters the Great WinIt

ipick Lake.

now

nearly five years since

first

pass-

ed

this place,

which, at
I

thought, seems but a

moment.

But when

deliberately recollect the

scenes through which

have passed, during that

as
if
I

space of time,
greater part of

it

seems
days

had passed the

my

in this country.

Monday,

24.

We

are

Winipick River, into the

now Lake

at the entrance of

of the same name.

We,

here, find a

number of people, who are from

142

Harmon's journal.

their respective winter quarters, and who, like ourselves, are on their

way

to the

New

Fort.

Friday, July

5.

Rainy Lake.

On
rice

the margin

of the waters, which connect this lake with the

Great Winipick Lake, the wild

is

found,

of

which
useful

have spoken on a former occasion.

is

This

grain

produced
;

in

no other part of the

North West Country

ly states, that
in
it is

though Carver erroneousIt

found every where.

grows
is

water, about two feet

deep, where there

rich

muddy bottom.
;

It rises

more than eight

feet

above the water

siderable

and, in appearance bears a conoats.

It in
is

resemblance to

gathered

about the latter end of September,

ing manner.
noes.

the followit

The

Natives pass
in
it

in

among

in ca-

Each canoe has

is

two persons, one of

stick, in

whom

in

each end, with a long hooked

in

one hand, and a straight one

the other.

With

the hooked stick, he brings the heads of the grain

over the canoe, and holds

the other, he beats
it

it

there

while, with

out.
it is

When

the canoe

is

thus sufficiently loaded,

taken to the shore and

rice,

emptied.
is

This mode of gathering the wild

evidently

more simple and convenient, than that

This grain
region, that,
in

which was practised in Carver's day.

is

gathered

such quantities,

in this

in

ordinary seasons, the

North West Company

purchase, annually, from twelve to fifteen hundred

harmon's journal.
bushels of
it,

143

from the Natives

and

'

it

constitutes

a principal article of food, at the posts in this vicinity.

I

have here received

left

letters
in

from

my

friends
;

in

Vermont, which

them

April last

and

which have,
tion.

as usual, afforded

me much

satisfac-

Saturday,

6.

Rainy Lake.

We
;

are about ten

miles from the fort, on this lake

and have been

in

encamped, during the greater part of the day,

order that
our people

may repair

their canoes

for they will soon

be obliged to transport them

over a number of long portages.

Monday
last, left

8.

Cross Lake.

Here we

meet

several canoes which, about the beginning of

May

Montreal, that

have goods on

board,

which
fort,

will

be carried

in

them

to the

Rainy Lake

and

will

thence be transported to Athabasca,

At

this lake,

we

leave the route which leads to

the old

Grand Portage.
9.

Tuesday,

During the whole of

lakes,

this

day,

we have been crossing small down what deserve the name

than rivers.

and coming

of brooks, rather

We

have met eight canoes, on their

way
mer

to the

Rainy Lake.
The Plain Portage.
In the forc

Friday, 12.

part of the. day,

is

we

met, A. N.

M Leod, Esq.
way back

who

now from

the

New

Fort, on his

144
to Athabasca.
fast

harmon

journal.

We went on shore, and took breakHe

has taken with him

with him.

my

friend

Mr. F. Goedike, a young man possessed of a good

understanding, and a

humane and generous

for

heart,

who
from

has been with

me

four years

past,

and

whom

I could not separate, without regret.

Saturday, July 13.

people, and

Overtook the Swan River

is

entered Nipignon River, which

rods broad.

nearly ten

This and

Dog's river,

excepting a few carrying places,

rapids and
falls, will

on account of

carry us to the

New

Fort.
plathis

The
ces,

land
it is

in this

vicinity

swampy.

is low, and in many There are few animals in

region, excepting moose, bears, and a

few beavers
the

and martins.
French,
in

This

is

the rout, by which

former times, passed into the

in

interiour.

The

Indians

this

quarter, are a few Sauteux

latter,

and Muscagoes.

The

come from towards

is

Hudson's Bay.

Sunday

14.

Dog's Portage, which

After coming
fifty

about

three miles over.

River, which

is

nearly

miles long,

down Nipignon we enterforty

ed the Dog's Lake, which may be about

arrived at this place.

miles in circumference, and by crossing which,

we

Monday
water
falls

15.

The Mountain Portage. Here the

here a store

perpendicularly, about seventy feet.

The North West company have

Harmon's journal.
house, to

145

which they send

Fort,
as

provisions,

&c, from
to that

the

New
is

the

river from
is

this

place

generally shallow, and

full

of rapids.
interi-

Those, therefore,
our, cannot take
this place
;

who
a
full

are going into the

load, until they

arrive at

and here they usually take their sup-

ply of provisions.

Tuesday, 16.

New

Fort, or,
is

as

it is

called

by

the Natives, Ka~mi-ni-ti-qui-a,

built

on the bank
stream,
four or
vessel

of

Dog

River, which

is

considerable

that empties into

five

Lake Superiour, about

fort.

hundreds rods below the

The

that runs on that lake, can come, with a part of

her lading, quite up to the quay, before the

fort.

Here the French, before the English conquered

Canada, had an establishment.

We
of

here meet a number of gentlemen, some

this

whom came

summer from Montreal, and

the
Interiour.

others

from different parts of

There

are also here, one thousand labouring men,

the greater part of

whom,

are Canadians,

who

answer better

in

this

country, for the service re-

quired by the Company, than any other people

would probably

do.

The
round,
is

country, for

some considerable distance

covered with heavy timber, consisting of

a kind of red pine, poplar, aspin, birch, cedar,

&c,
first

but the

soil

does not appear to be of the

19

146
quality.

HARiMON's journal.

Potatoes,

pease,

oats,

&c, however,

grow tolerably well here. Monday, 22. I have passed several days, not unpleasantly, in the company of a number of young
gentlemen.

They now

begin, however, to leave

to-

this, to return to

their winter quarters; and

morrow,

expect to depart, and to proceed for

As there will be two other young gentlemen in the same brigade, whom I know to be sociable and pleasant companions, *I
Fort des Prairies.
expect to have a pleasant passage to
,

my

winter

quarters.

Wednesday, August 28.

During nearly

month past we have been coming through a country,

which
at the

have already described.

We

are

now

Grand Rapid, where the Sisiscatchwin

into

River disembogues

the north west part of

Great Lake Winipick.

Thursday, September

This

is

a noble stream,

about two hundred fathoms broad.

5.

Cumberland House.

This

fort stands

on the north side of a considera-

ble lake, called

by the Natives, who

in this vicini-

ty are Muscagoes, Sturgeon Lake.

The

sturgeon
lake.

are

found
post

in

considerable plenty, in
established,
thirty

this

This
since,

was

three
this

years
place,

by Mr. Joseph Frobisher.

At

the people

and those

who are destined to Fort des Prairies, who are proceeding to Athabasca, sep-

Harmon's journal.
arate.

147

The
is

former go up the Sisiscatchwin Rivlatter

er, and the

up the English River.

The
trader

latter,

so called, in honour of

Mr. Joseph Frothe

first

bisher, an

Englishman,

who was

that ever went into that part of the country.

On

the
is

30th ultimo, we crossed Lac Bourbon,

about forty miles long,
fort,

which

on which the
formerly
;

North West Company had a

it

but

was abandoned,
hills

in

1802.

mountains or

to

be seen,

There are few between this place

soil is

and Lake Winipick.

The

country has a pretty

rich,

heavy growth of timber, and the

are
taken, such as

fn

the lakes and rivers of this region, excellent fish

sturgeon, white-fish,
cat-fisji,

pike, pickerel, &c.

This country abounds

in fowls,

among which

are swans, bustards, geese, and

many

kinds of ducks.

Moose

are found in considerable

plenty; there are a few black bears, otters, muskrats

and martins
about

and rarely, a beaver

is

found.

Saturday, September 21.

South Branch Fort.

miles
river

This

is

one hundred and twenty

place

above the Fork, or the

where

this

forms a junction with the North Branch, after

which,
it

assumes the name of Sisiscatchwin River.

their rise in the

Both branches take

tain,

Rocky Mounpass*

though at a distance of several hundred

miles from each other.

es through large plains
;

The South Branch

but the country through

148

Harmon's journal.
is

which the other runs

north
side.

woody, particularly on the

to

From Cumberland House

In

the
is

Fork, the country on both sides of the river

covered with wood.

small plains that

these woods,

and the be

are here and there scattered

deer,

among them, moose, red

found.

&c, are

to

This fort was put up the

last

summer, and
informed that

two
are

stores
still

were

built

but the dwelling houses

to

be constructed.

am

buffaloes are in plenty within a half a day's

march
Indians,

from

this.

There are
to trade at

four

tribes

of

who come
goes.

this establishment.

They

are the Crees, Assiniboins, Sauteux and Musca-

few

also of the

Black feet Indians resort

here.

In coming

up

this river,

we saw many
and some

places,

where
period.

forts

have stood, some of which were

at a later
six miles

abandoned

thirty years since,

One, which was situated about

this,

below

was abandoned

fifteen

years since, on

account of an attack from the Rapid Indians.

following circumstances, in regard to that

The
affair,

were related
lain,

to

me by Mons.

Louis Chattelfort.

who, at that time, had charge of the

a fort in the

The Hudson Bay Company had

neighbourhood, which was
first

same

attacked, by about

one hundred and

fifty

Indians on

horse back

harmon's journal.

149
it,

and the few people

man,

who were

in

excepting one

who

secreted himself, were killed.

fort
all

After

they had taken out of the

the property

which they could conveniently carry away with

them, they set
fire to

the fort, and proceeded to

the establishment of the North

West Company,
from that of

which was two hundred rods

distant

Hudson Bay people, with the

it

intention of treating

in

a similar manner.
fort gates

The
were
in

had providentially, been shut,

previously to the approach of the Indians.

There

the

fort,

three men, and several

women

and children.

The men

took their stations in the

;

block houses and bastions

and when the Natives

had come

sufficiently near, fired

upon them.
;

The
sav-

Indians, instantly returned the fire

and the contest

continued, until the night approached.

The

age assailants, having had several of their party

killed,

and others severely wounded, while the

in

people
it

the fort had sustained no injury, thought

;

best to retreat

and after dragging their dead

and dying into the river, they retired.

Chattellain did not think
it

But Mr.
day

prudent to remain
the
fol-

there

any longer.

Accordingly,
all

lowing, they

embarked

their

property on

board of several canoes, and proceeded down the

about two hundred menced building another
river,

miles,
fort.

where they com-

The

only object

150

Harmon's journal.
forts,

of the Indians, in attacking these

der.

was pluiK

Mr. William Smith and myself, together with fifteen labouring men, &c. are to pass the winter here and a few hundred paces from us, the Hud;

son

Bay people have

girl

a fort.

Thursday, October 10.

daughter, a

This day, a Canadian's

oT about fourteen years of age,

;

was
tion,

offered to

me

and after mature consideraI

concerning the step which

finally

ought to take,

have

concluded to accept of her, as

it is

customary

for all

gentlemen who remain, for any

part of the world, to have a

length of time,

in this

female companion, with

whom
if

they can pass their

time more socially and agreeably, than to live a

lonely
live in
life,

as they

must do,

single.

harmony together, my
as long as
;

intention
in
I

we caa now is, to

If

keep her

remain

this

uncivilized

part of the world

tive land, I shall

and when

return to

my

na-

endeavour

to place

her under the

protection of

some honest man, with

whom

she

can pass the remainder of her days

in this

country,
possible
into the

,much more agreeably, than it would be for her to do, w ere she to be taken down
7

civilized world, to

the manners, customs and lan-

guage of which, she would be an entire stranger.

Her mother

is

of the tribe of the Snare Indians,

lies

whose country

along the

Rocky Mountain.

Harmon's journal.

151

The
to

girl is said to

have a mild

disposition

and an

even temper, which are

qualities

very necessary
affectionate

make an agreeable woman, and an

Thursday, November
7.

partner.

The

river froze over

little

the last night

but

we have
15, 1806.
;

yet had but

snow.
Saturday,

March

This evening the

I

northern express arrived

that no letters have
season.

and

am

sorry to learn
this

come from Athabasca,

is

This

failure

owing

to the great

depth of

snow

in that quarter.

Buffaloes
is

have been found

in plenty, within a few miles of the fort, during

the whole winter.

Tuesday, 25.

The snow

chiefly dissolved,

we have sent this, to make

four men, about a day's

sugar.

march from

Saturday, April 19.

Indians have gone to

*The

greater part of our

wage war upon the Rapid

Indians, their inveterate enemies, with

whom

they
is

frequently patch up a peace, which, however,

generally of short continuance.

Monday,
party of the
ral

28.

This afternoon, the

ice

in

this

river broke up.

A few
fort.

days since, a small war

Rapid

Assiniboins,

came and killed sevewho were encamped within fifIndians

teen miles of our

old

They

also stabbed

an

woman

in

several places, and scalped her, who,

152
notwithstanding,

Harmon's journal.
is still

alive, and, to

appearance,

likely to recover of

her wounds.
Last
evening,

Monday, June

2.

Messrs.

J.

Hughes and Alexander Stewart came

within fifteen miles from
their canoes
this.

here, on

horse back, from the North Branch, which passes

There, they

left

and people

and on their return, they

will continue their

rout to the
if

New

Fort.

Mr.

Smith and myself,

the

providence permit, are to pass

summer

at this place,

interpreters,

where we have three four labouring men, and a number of

Avomen and children.

sible,

As my companion

is

a sen1

well

informed and sociable young man,

hope

to pass

my

time both pleasantly and profita-

Friday, August
ed,

8.

Six Assiniboins have arriv-

and inform

us, that

about eighty tents of Crees

and Assiniboins, with about as many of the Black

feet Indians,

were on their way

the Rapid Indians,

wage war with their common enemy. But the

to

two former

tribes quarrelled, in

their march, re-

specting a horse, which they both claimed, and

which neither would

lasted during a day, in

relinquish.

This

circum-

stance occasioned a battle

between them, which

five of the

which twenty

Black

feet Indians,
killed.

and three of the Assiniboins,

were

This put an end to the expedition,

for this season.

Harmon's journal.
Wednesday, September
rived from
3.

153

Two men
me
letters

have
from

ar-

Cumberland House,

situated on Stur-

geon Lake, who have brought

friends below,
intelligence, that

my

which communicate the melancholy

my

father, after a severe illness

of but a few weeks, expired, on the 25th of June,

1805.

The
I

protector and

guide of
I

my

youth,

whom

revered and loved,

It

shall

never more
in-

see in this world.

would have afforded me

I

expressible satisfaction, could

have seen and con-

versed with him, previously to

" the"
will

his departure.*

But
his

Judge of the earth has done right," and "

I

be done."

am

not left to mourn, under this

;

severe bereavement, without consolation

christian character

for his

and profession, afford the com-

fortable hope, that he has ceased to sin and to suffer,

and now participates

in

blessedness,

such as
pious

this

miserable world cannot afford.

his

May his

example stimulate me, and

follow

other children, to

him

in

the path which conducts to a better

world.
I
c

have

also

received letters from

J.
c

Mr. A. N.
me,

M Leod, and Mr.

that
I

M Donald, which inform

I

am

to pass the ensuing winter at

Cumber-

land House, for which place,

shall leave this, a

few days hence.

Thursday
I
,

September 11.

Cumberland House.
J.

arrived here this afternoon, and find Messrs.

26

154

harmon's journal.

Hughes, and David Thompson, &c. who have just

arrived from the

New

Fort, and

way

to

Fort des Prairies.

who are on their The Hudson Bay peo-

ple have a fort within a hundred rods of ours, in

the charge of Mr. Peter Fidler.

Wednesday, 17.

Sent Mons. Penis and com-

pany, with a small assortment of goods, to go and

pass the winter at
5

Moose Lake, which is situated about two days march from this, and nearly west
from Lake Winnipick.

The

Indians,

who

resort to this establishment,

are Sauteux and Muscagoes.

Moose and black

;

bears are pretty abundant in this vicinity

and a

few beavers are found.

sturgeon and white
lake.
fall

We subsist principally upon

which we take out of the
in
is

fish,

Geese and bustards are numerous,

the

and spring.
overflowed;

The

surrounding country

very

low and
it is

level, so that, at

some

seasons,

much of
this lake
six

This accounts for the periodical

influx

and reflux of the water, between

and the Sisiscatchwin River, which are distant

miles.

Friday,

October

3.

three canoes, have just

ry.

Hudson Bay people, in arrived from York Facto;

They

bring late news from England

and

in-

form

us, that

war continues

to

rage as

much

as

ever, on the continent of Europe.

Friday, 24.

We

have now about four inches

jharmon's journal.

155
part of

of snow

and, the last night, the greater

this lake froze over.

have sent people to the

other side of
will
r

this lake, to fish for sturgeon,

which

w eigh from ten to One hundred pounds.

is

They
in

are taken in spread nets, which

the

manner

which we generally take all kinds of fish, in this Some kinds, however, such as trout, cat country.
fish

and pike, we at times take, by setting hooks

lines.

and

Friday, January 30, 1807.

Two
me

of the

Hudfrom

son

Bay people

arrived from Fort des Prairies,

letters

who were

so obliging as to bring

several gentlemen in that quarter.

The

greater

part of the North

live

West and Hudson Bay people, on amicable terms; and when one can with
it

propriety render a service to the other,

is

done

with cheerfulness.
Sunday, April
river,
is

5.
;

The

ice in the Sisiscatchwin

broken up

and the great quantity of

snow which has recently been dissolved, has caused that river to rise so high, as to give another
course to a small river, which generally takes
its
it.

water out of
Saturday,
ice
;

this lake, but

which now runs

is

into

May

23.

This lake

free

from

and we have planted potatoes, and sowed our

garden seeds.
south, and

Geese

have returned from the

in plenty.
c

we now have them

Mr. John

Saturday, 30.

M Donald and others,

156
in

harmon's journal.

seven canoes, have just arrived from Fort des Prairies, and are on their way to the New Fort.
Sunday, June
inst.

7.
c

Grand Rapid.

On

the 1st

Mr. John

M Donald,

myself and other peoleft

ple, in

seven canoes and one boat,

here, on

Cumberland
where we
ice in

House and arrived

have ever
Winnipick, which

the

15th,

since been, stopped

is

by the

Lake

not yet broken up.

We here
they are

spear as many sturgeon as

going up or

we

please, as
is

down
8.

the rapid, which

about

six

miles in length.

Monday,
up the
ice,

Lake Winnipick.

The last

night

there arose a strong north west wind, which broke

and drove

it

to the north east part of

the' lake.

We,

therefore,
all

embarked

this

morning,

and have sailed

Tuesday, 16.

day.

White River.
the entrance of

In the

morning

Lake Winnipick River, and this afternoon, Mr. A. N. M c Leod and company, from Athabasca, overtook us. With this gentleman, to whom I am under many obligaleft

we

the

fort, at

tions, I

am happy

to

spend an evening, after so

JVew Fort.

long a separation.
Saturday, July 4.

Once more,

have arrived
myself among

at the general

rendezvous, and find

my

friends and acquaintances,

from
rein-

different parts of the

country.

Here

have

ceived letters from

my

friends

below, which

Harmon's journal.

157

form
ty.

me
It is
;

of their health and reasonable prosperia great satisfaction thus

to

hear from
in-

them

but this satisfaction would be greatly

I

creased, could

be permitted to see and converse

for

with them.
I

Although the seven years,

to
I

which

was under an engagement

degree of propriety, as
I

the North

West

Company, have now expired,

least
I

cannot with the

gratify the

think,

ardent desire which

have of seeing

my

friends,

by going down
knows.

this year.
I shall

And when
visit

the happy

time will come, that

them,

God

only

It is trying to

a person
to

who
in

has the least

affection for

his

friends,

be separated from
such a savage

them, for such a series of years,

country.

My

duty and happiness, however, re-

quire that I endeavour to

situation.

make

the best of

my

Notwithstanding the

bad

examples
as virtu-

which we daily witness, a person can be

ous in this, as in any other part of the

world.

True

it is, if

a person

were here
find but

to lead a really reassociates,

ligious life,

he would

few

who
But

would directly encourage him

this
is

in his course.

in

a great measure true in every part of

the world.

Sunday, July 19.

called the
in

This, which was formerly

is

New

Fort,

now named Fort

c

William,

honour of William
'of

M Gilvray,

Esq. the head

agent

the North

West Company.

At the time

353

Harmon's journal.

of giving this name, the

to their Voyagers, of a
spirits,

Company made

a present

considerable quantity of

shrub, &c. and also a similar present to the

Indians,

encamped about the

fort.
I shall

As
in

am

still in ill

health,

pass the win-

ter with

Doctor

Laughlin, at Sturgeon Lake,

lies

the department

of Nipigon, which

to the

north west from

Saturday,

this.

25.

This afternoon,
I left

in
;

company
and we

with three canoes,

are

Fort William
island, in

now encamped on an
JWondaij,

Lake SupePortage
in

riour.

August

3.

First long

the

JVipigon

Road.

We

yesterday, separated

from Messrs. Chaboillez and Leith, who have gone

to winter at the Pic

and Michipcotton

and to day,
a small

we

left

Lake

Superiour, and have

come up

river.

Tuesday,

4.

South west end of Lake JVipigon.

This lake

is

said to be one

hundred and

fifty

miles

in length, and from one, to twenty, broad.

Trout

are here taken, superiour to those that are found

in the

North West country, which

will

weigh up-

wards of seventy pounds, and are of an excellent

quality.

-The
in

country through which

to this place

we have

passed
our,
is

coming

from Lake Superilittle

rocky and contains but

wood, of any

kind.

Whortleberries are found

in plenty.

Harmon's journal.
Friday,
7.

159
north end of
is

Fort Duncan, at

the

Lake
soil

JVipigon.

The

surrounding country
is

very
the

rough;

but

where the ground

arable,

appears to

be good. Moose
;

and

cariboo
also,

are found

in this vicinity

and there are,

otters,

few black bears, beavers,

tins,

muskrats, marfish
fall

&c.

Great numbers of white

their
in a

are taken

out of the lake, particularly in the

of the year.
air,

These are hung up by

the winter.

tails, in

the open

and are preserved good,

frozen state, during

Most people prefer those that have

to fish that are taken

been thus kept,

Sunday,

immediately

out of the water.

9.

In the morning,

we

sent off three

canoes, and in the after part

of the day, some of

intelli-

the people returned, with the melancholy

gence, that one of their companions was drowned,

in

going up a small rapid.

The
it,

canoe overset,
lost.

and most of the property on board, was

other persons,

The

who were

in

saved themselves

by swimming

to the shore.

Thursday, 13.

In the morning, Mr. Holdane,

the Doctor and myself, with our company, left fort

Duncan, where Mr. R.

ensuing winter.

Kenzie

will

pass the

There,

also,

we separated from
is

two Messrs. Camerons, whose route

towards

northward,
is

Hudson's Bay,

Our

|*>urse

nearly

south west.

160

Harmon's journal.
24.

Monday,
Lake.

Portage du Fort, or Sturgeon

;

Here, we arrived, yesterday

and

this

morning, Mr. Holdane and his company

continue their route to

left us, to

Red

Lake.

The Doctor
this

and

I,

with our company, shall leave

tomor-

row, to go and build at the other end of

this lake,

which may be about forty miles

one to
five broad.

long,

and from

The
we
it is

country through which

left

we have
and level
seen
;

passed, since
;

Fort Duncan,
hills,

is

low

no mountains, or even
places

are to be

in

many

swampy, and small lakes

appears to be prin-

and ponds and rivers and brooks are numerous.

Where

the land

is

dry, the

soil

cipally a black loam.

This

tract of country

was
;

formerly well stocked with beavers and otters

but they have

now become

scarce,

as

they have

been hunted by the Natives, during more than the

last

hundred years.

Moose and carriboo are

1.

still

considerably numerous, in this region.

Tuesday, September,
ing houses for our

Our people

are erect-

winter habitations.
considerable numbers.

take white
dians,

fish in

We

now The In-

who

frequent this post, are Sauteux and

,

Muscagoes.

Saturday, October

3.

We

sent people to the

fall

other end of this lake, to

make a

fishery.

They
which

will

take white

fish,

trout, pike, carp,

&c,
those

constitutes

the

principal

food for

Harmon's journal.

161
In this country,

who

are in the Nipigon country.

is

which
ed
try.

at least

seven hundred miles long and

five or six

hundred broad, more people have starvthan

in all

to death,

the rest of the Indian coun-

At

this lake,

several
for

years

since,

eleven

Canadians

lost their lives

want of food.
in this

We

experience at present, no difficulty

respect;

and

am

of

opinion that

the distresses of our

predecessors

were,

in

considerable

measure,

owing to the want of good management.

Monday, November
fourteen hundred
fish

9.

Our people have

all

re-

turned, and inform us, that they have caught only

of

descriptions.
rice

These,
and meat

however, with what corn, Hour, wild

we

have, together with the trout which

we hope
us

to take

with set hooks and

frozen over,
will,

lines, as

soon as the

lake

is

we

expect, furnish

with a comfortable subsistence, during the winter.

We
ber,

are in a solitary place,

;

where we see no
in
I

one,

excepting the Natives

and they are few

numhave
a

compared with those, among Happily for us, formerly been.

few good
shall

whom

we have
r

books;

and

in

perusing them,
of the time.

we

pass the

greater part
is

The
with
fond

Doctor,
myself,

who
is

of about

the

same age
and

an
;

excellent

companion,

of conversation

and

I trust,

that a friendly inter-

course will mutually cheer our spirits, and that

we

21

162
shall

Harmon's journal.

spend the winter

pleasant

in a

manner, that

will

be

both

and

profitable.

We
will this

have

now

about four inches of snow, which

probably re-

main

with us through the winter.

Sunday, 15.
over.

The

last

night,

lake froze

Friday, December

4.

We

now take

great
ice,

numbers of excellent
with hooks and
lines.

trout

from under the

Early

this

morning, the

woman whom

have

taken to reside with me, became the mother of a

boy,

whom I name George Harmon.

28.

Monday, December
Natives, has gone to

Doctor

Laughlin,

accompanied by two Canadians and one of the

visit

Mr. Holdane,
1808.

at

Red

Lake.
Friday, February
19,

The

Doctor
long

and company have returned, from

juant
;

their

and

am happy

in

again enjoying his so-

ciety, after a season of comparative loneliness.

Another year of

my

life is

gone, which makes

me me

thirty years of age.

This anniversary leads

and the

to reflect on the rapid flight of time,

brevity of

human

life.
it

When

attentively con-

sider these

things,

seems surprising that

difficulty

we
in

should encounter so

much

and labour

the acquisition of property, which,

if it

could min-

Harmon's journal.
ister

163
it

more

effectually to

our enjoyment than

relinquish forever.

does,

we must very soon

Friday,
in a small

May

13.

The
set

Doctor, with one

man

canoe, has
will

off for

Fort William,

where he

be wanted as soon as he can arrive,

to attend on the sick.

who
I

visit

that

number rendezvous every summer, there

the great

Among

are always some,

who need

medical aid

though
is

firmly believe, that no part of the world

more

healthly

than

this.

The
me

Doctor has not been

able to learn, to his satisfaction,

plaint
is.

what my comI

think that the medicines, which

have

taken, in

the course of the winter, have been of

;

essential service to

and

hope, before long

to regain

my

former state of good health.

past winter, upon

The
ing the hares.

Indians of this place have subsisted, dur-

greater
is

part of the

There

an old Sauteux

woman

here,

who compels her own

course with her! Thursday,

son to have criminal inter-

June

9.

Portage du Fort

Here,

we

shall wait the arrival of the people of this de;

partment
and

and we

shall

then continue our route,

It
is

with them to Fort William.

fifteen
in

nine

months

days since

passed this place, the last

autumn,

going into the country, which evinces

that our winter has

too, that
it

been long; and

may add

has been dreary.

But we have reason

164

Harmon's journal.

to be thankful to
at
all,

God, that we have not suffered

subsistence.

for the

want of the means of

Fort

Wednesday, 22.
for

Duncan.

The

people

whom we were

waiting at Portage

du Fort,

arrived on the
set out for

12th, and

the day following,

we

this place,

which we reached

this af-

ternoon.

we left fort Duncan, and came to an island in Lake Nipigon, on which we are now encamped, and where we inSaturday, 25.

Yesterday,
"

tend to pass

few days,
in plenty,

in

fishing

for

trout,

which are here

quality.

and are of an excellent

Thursday, July

7.

Yesterday morning,

I ar-

rived at Fort William,

where

had only time to

read

my

letters

from

my

friends below, and anfor a long journey.

swer them, and prepare myself

This
afternoon
I

embarked
J.

for

Athabasca,
;

in

company with Mr.

G.

M Tavish
c

and both of

us are to remain at the

for three years, at least.

place of our destination,

Wednesday, 20.
all

Rainy Lake.

We

here find

the Athabasca people, excepting one brigade,

is

which

expected

daily.

Ever since my arrival here, we have been busily employed in preparing to

Saturday, 22.

leave this place, for our winter quarters.

Tuesday, 26.

Rainy Lake River.

In the

harmon's journal.
morning,
I

165

left

the

fort

in

company with Mr.

consists of

Archibald
ten canoes.

c Gillivray.

Our brigade
in

Friday, 29.

Portage de Disk,
morning,

Winnipick

River.

In

the

we met

Mr.

David
This
lake,
I

Thomson and company from

Monday, August
morning,
1.

the Columbia River.

Lake Winnipick.
the
fort

we

arrived at
until

on

this

where we remained
wrote to
is

noon.

While there,
also

my

old friend

Mr. William Henry, who

River.
I

at

the

Lower Red
in

received a
his

letter from him,

fort

which he informs me, that

from cannon

was attacked

this

summer, by a considerable
shots,
in

party of Sieux.

Two

the

block houses, however, caused them to

retire, in

doing which, they threatened that they would before long, return

and

make another attempt

Sieux are

to

take the

fort.

The

a numerous tribe

of Indians,

who

are scattered over a large tract of

land, that lies

ri

between the Mississippi and Missoube the greatest

part of the world.

rivers

and they are said to

villains, in this

They

are the

same

tribe that

Carver

distinguishes,

by the name
west

of Nandswesseis.

Saturday,

6.

Grand Rapid,
and
in

at the north

end of Lake Winnipick.

during the day of our canoes
;

The wind

has been high,

it,

the latter part of

one

filled

with water.

Happily,

it

w as
T

Harmon's journal.

near an
people

island,

when

this disaster

happened.

The
of

were, however, under the

necessity

throwing a part of their property overboard.

We

find

here Mons. Perigne,

who was
to

former*

ly a clerk to the

North West Company, but who,

been
Canada, and

as he informs me, has lately

has

come up on his own account. brought up a few goods, to enable him

He
also,

has

to carry on
in-

a small traffick with the Natives.

He,

tends, occasionally to hunt the beaver,

&c,

himself.

But

am

convinced, that, at this

great distance

from the place of market be profitably carried

on,

for furs, the trade cannot

unless

it

be done on a

large scale, which requires a greater capital than

an individual can embark

in

this
in

undertaking.

The experiment
instances
;

has been made,

number of

and

it

has uniformly failed.

Friday, 12.
place,
I

Cumberland House.
take a route, which
I

From

this

shall

have never

before travelled.
Saturday, 13.

Entrance of River Maligne, or

is

Bad

River.

This

a considerable river, which

runs into Sturgeon Lake.

Sunday,

14.

Beaver

Lake.

The
in

greater

part of the day,

we have employed
mentioned,
which,

coming up
its

the

river

last

through

whole course, has a continual succession of rapids.

harmon's journal.

167

The

country around

is

low, and the timber, like

is

that of the

North West country generally,

16.

small.

Tuesday,

Pelican Lake.
in crossing

Most

of

the

day has been passed

Wednesday, 17.
or Trading

Lac Martin.
Traite,

Portage du Forte de

Fort Portage.

This was so named,

from a circumstance which occurred here, thirty

four years since.

Mr. Joseph Frobisher and comthe

first

pany,

who were

traders

who ever came

furs,

into this quarter,

tives,

here met a large band of Na-

whose canoes were loaded with

which

they were taking to York Factory,

Bay.

at

Hudson's

He
to

succeeded

in bartering his goods for

their furs,

which amounted

to

more than he could

season.

take

head quarters, the next

fort,
;

He

therefore built a

and, with his people passed

several winters here

and

at that time,

it

was the

most northen post, belonging either to the North

West, or the Hudson Bay Company.

All the waters from this side of the portage, pass

through Lake Winnipick, and

son's

finally fall into

Hud-

Bay, at York Factory.

But, on the other

side of the portage,

which
is

is

about half a mile

over, the stream,

which

called Mis-sin-ni-pi or

Great River, runs

ters

in a different direction,

and enis

Hudson's Bay, at Churchill Factory, which

the most northern post belonging to the Hudson

Bay Company.

The

river last mentioned,

is

call-

163
ed,

Harmon's journal.

by the Hudson Bay people, Churchill River, and by the people from Canada, English River.
Thursday, August 18.
tained

This afternoon,

we

ob-

some dried meat from the Natives, which we find much more palatable than the salted provisions,

on which

we have

subsisted,

ever since

we feft Fort make use of

want of
salt,

William.

In the Interiour
;

we never

salted provisions

not,

however, for

which

is

found

in

most parts of the

plenty,
at

country, and which can be obtained in

all

our establishments.
Tuesday, 23.
Isle

a la

Cross

Lake.

Ever

since

we
in

left

Portage du Forte de Traite,

we have
sev-

been

what may with propriety, be called the

River, though
;

English

it

passes

through

eral small lakes

and

in this

river, our

way
This

has

been obstructed by
Thursday, 25.

thirty six portages.

Isle la

Cross fort.

fort

stands on the north side of the

lake of the same

it

name,

is

well built and has attached to

an ex-

cellent kitchen garden.

Out of the

lake, the best

;

of white fish are taken, during the whole year

it is

and

the only place in this country,

in

which these
Indians

fish

can be taken, at

all

seasons.

The

who come

to this establishment, are

Chippewyans,
I

in considerable

numbers, and a few Crees.

are,
in

am

informed that there

this

vicinity,

many

moose and cariboo, and a few black bears, bea-

Harmon's journal.
vers, otters, cats, &c.

169
is

The

country

low

and

scarcely any mountains are to be seen.

Tuesday, 30.

Loach Portage.
dance.
across

This

East end of Portage la Loche, or is so named, from a neighfish

bouring lake, where these

are taken, in abun-

This portage
it,

is

twelve miles over; and

obliged
to

the

people are
lading.

transport

both canoes and

is

The

road,

however,

excellent, through a level country, thinly

woodIsle la

ed with cypress.
Cross,

In coming here

from

we have passed two

river,

considerable lakes,

and come up a small

those lakes.

which

is

between

The
is

country through

which
the before

we
soil

have passed,
is

generally level,

and

tolerably
this

good.
portage,

The

streams,

we
into

cross

discharge

themselves
;

Hudson's Bay at Churchill Factory

but after-

ward, the water, after passing through Athabasca,

Great Slave, and other lakes, enters the North

Sea.

Saturday,

September

Portage

la Locke.

We

North west end of here find a small band of

3.

Chipewyans,
porting

who

assist

our

people

in

trans-

our

property across the

portage,

and

who supply us with provisions, which we very much need, since our former stock is nearly exhausted.

About a mile from

this

end of the portage

22

170
a
hill,

Harmon's journal.

which towers majestically, to the height of

;

a thousand feet, above the plain below

and which

commands
pect.

a most
lofty

extensive and delightful pros-

Two
the
is,

and extensive ridges, enclose a

in

valley, about three miles far

as

width, which stretches,

eye can reach.

The

Little

River,

which

also,

by

different

persons, denominated
in

Swan, Clear water, or Pelican River, winds,

most delightful manner, along
ley.
this

charming

val-

The

majestick forests, which

wave upon
of the inter-

these ridges, the delightful verdure

vening lawn, and the beautiful stream, which wanders along through
it,

giving a pleasing variety to

the scene, until these objects

become blended
ever beheld.

with the horizon, form, on the whole, the most delightful, natural scenery, that I

Sunday,

4.

In the morning,
in

we

left

the Port-

age

and are now

is

Little

Athabasca River ;
in the

which

about twenty rods wide.

6.

Tuesday,

We
is

are

now

Great Atha-

basca River, which

mile in breadth.

about three quarters of &

early

In the

part of the day,

we

passed the Fork, where Little Athabasca riv-

er and

Red

deer,

or as some

call

it,

Elk

river,

form a junction.

At

a small distance from Portis

age la Loche, the navigation of the river

inter-

rupted by several carrying places,

in

about the

middle of which, are some mineral springs, that

Harmon's journal.

171

are evidently impregnated with sulphur, as ap-

pears by the incrustations on their margins.

At

about twenty miles from the Fork, several bitu-

minous fountains are found, into which a pole of

twenty feet

in

length,

the least resistance.

fluid state,
is

may be plunged, without The bitumen, which is in a

fir,

mixed with gum, or the resinous suband

is

stance collected from the spruce

used for

gumming
like that

canoes.

When

heated,

it

emits a smell,
places,

of sea coal.

There

are some

along this river, which are of

many

miles in extent,

where there
were
killed

is

scarcely a tree
fire,

standing.

They
buffa-

by the

and were then thrown

places, a

down by
loes,

the winds.

At these

few

moose and cariboo, are found.

7.

Wednesday,

Fort Chipewyan.

This fort

stands on a rocky point, at the south western end

of Athabasca Lake, or, as some call

of the Hills.
all all

it,

the

Lake

This

is

the general rendezvous for

are set apart for

Athabasca.

Here the goods

this place,

the different posts, in this extensive depart;

ment

number of persons who have the charge of these posts, come

and to
the greater
fall,

every
those,

to

receive

their
it

merchandise

from
Long.

who have brought

is

from the Rainy Lake.

This place
111
0
.

in

N. Lat. 58 40' and

W.

few Crees, and a greater number of Chipe-

172
wyans, resort to
tribe
furs

Harmon's journal.
this

establishment.
to

The

latter

were accustomed, formerly,

to

take their

Churchill

Factory,
six

at

Hudson's
in

Bay.

They

were, generally,
;

months

performing

the journey

and many of them have actually

almost desit,

starved to death, on their return home, as the

country through which they passed,

titute of

is

game.

This lake
;

is,

in
it

no part of
is,

more
two
to-

than fifteen miles wide

but

at least,

hundred miles

long,

and extends eastwardly,

ward Churchill Factory.

About
tity

sixty miles

from

this,

down Slave River,

there are several places, where almost any quanof excellent, clean, white salt

may

be taken,

with as much ease, as sand, along the sea shore.

From these places, the greater part of the North West is supplied with this valuable article. The country around this place, is low and lev1, and, in the spring of the year, much of it is covred with water.
icinity
;

few moose are found,

form the

in this

but, the fish of the lake

princi-

pal dependence for food, and they are abundant,

and of an excellent
than

quality.

Every
in

fall

and spring,

bustards and geese are found

in

greater numbers,

any other part of the North West.

Wednesday, 21.
place, people,

Ever

since

my

arrival in this
this

from almost every corner of

in,

extensive department, have been flocking

some

Harmon's journal.
of

173

whom

are

from more than a thousand miles

River, which
is

down

c Kenzie's

nearly north

west from

this.

Others are from Great Slave

Lake and Peace River.

just returned* from the
spring,

Mr. Simon Frazer has

Pacific Ocean.

The

last

accompanied

by two

other gentlemen,

twelve Canadians, and two of the Natives, he set

out from

New

Caledonia, on the west side of the

this tour.

Rocky Mountain, on
that his party

Mr. Frazer
ill

states,

met with some

treatment from
coast, but that

the Indians

who

live along the sea

they
reside

were hospitably received

farther

by those

who

up the country.
side

The

Indians in

that quarter, he says, are less scattered than those

who

live

on

this
in

of the

Rocky Mountain,
huts,

and reside, not

constructed
the
far

tents,

but in houses or

of

wood.

He
which

also

reports, that

country

through

they

passed,

is

from

being well stocked with

of animals
;

beavers, or

any other kind

and that the Nafish.

tives subsist principally

upon

Thursday,

22.

This afternoon,

in

company
I left

with a number of persons, in several canoes,

Fort Chipewyan; and, after coming two miles

in

Athabasca Lake, we entered a small

is
7

river,

which

about thirty six miles long, and w hich

;

out of that lake into Peace river

this river
is

now runs but, when

high,

it

discharges itself into the Lake.

174
Friday, 23.

Harmon's journal.
Peace River.

This river

is

about

seventy rods
It rises

in

breadth, and has a gentle current.

on the west side of the

a

Rocky Mountain,

at the distance of nearly

this.

thousand miles from

Below
;

this, it

assumes the name of Slave

of one hundred and
discharges itself into Great

River

and, after a course

it

forty or fifty miles,

Slave Lake.

Sunday, October
post, great
furs
;

2.

Fort Vermillion.

To

this

numbers of Beaver Indians bring

also,

their

and there are a few Iroquois,

hunt
in this vicinity.

from Cansixty miles

ada,

who

About

below
wide,

this,

where the
is

river

is

about thirty rods

there

fall,

of

about

twenty

feet.

Through the whole course, from this fall nearly to the Rocky Mountain, at a little distance from
the river, on each side, there are
siderable extent, which afford
plains

of con-

pasture for nume-

rous herds of the buffaloe, the red deer or elk,

and a few moose.

abundant on the
Friday,
is,

Great numbers of black bears

on the berries, which are
on both sides of the river.
island Fort.

are found, that feed

hills,

7.

Encampment

This place

also established, for the purpose of trading with

the Beaver Indians.

They

are the only Indians

who

live along this noble

river,

excepting a few
to
this

Crees,

who

occasionally

come

quarter,

from the Lesser Slave Lake.

Harmon's journal.

175
is

Monday,
tort,

10.

Dunvegan.

This

a well built

pleasantly situated, with plains on each side

in

of the river,

N. Lat. 56 and

W.

Lon. 119.

About the Fort a number of Iroquois hunters, and a band of Beaver Indians, have encamped,

who have been

obtain

waiting our arrival, in order to

the
I

articles

which they need.

At
J.

this

place
will,

expect to pass the ensuing winter.

be here, Messrs. D.
J.

There
G.

also,

c Tavish,

c Tavish,

c Gillivray,

thirty

two labouring

men, nine
abode the

women and
last winter.

several children, which

renders this place very different from

my

solitary

Our
faloe,

principal food will be the flesh of the buf-

moose, red deer and bear.

;

We
we

have a

tol-

erably good kitchen garden

fear that

and

are in no

we

shall

want the means of a comfortahave, also, a provision for the

in

ble subsistence.

We

entertainment and improvement of our minds,

a

good

collection of books.

The gentlemen who

and
I

are to remain with me, are enlightened, sociable

and pleasant companions

to

hope, therefore,

spend a pleasant and a profitable winter.

Friday, 14.

This morning,
I

my

old friend

Mr.
at

F. Goedike,

whom

have been happy to meet

this place, left us,

with his company, for

St, Johns,

which

is

about one hundred and twenty miles "^up

this river,

where he

is

to pass the ensuing winter.

176

Harmon's journal.
Saturday, November 12.

About a

foot of

snow

has

fallen.

Tuesday, December 20.

this

During the

last night,

river froze

over

and, at nine

o'clock this

morning, the thermometer was at 40 degrees be-

low

0.

Wednesday, January

4,

1809.

Sent the ex-

press to the Lesser Slave Lake, which lies about

two hundred and

from
this,

fifty
it

miles to the

south east

whence

will

be forwarded to Fort

des Prairies.

Wednesday,

have come
to the

in,

March 1. who went

band of our Indians

search of

a considerable distance

northward, the

last

autumn,

in

beavers.

They
to an

state, that

where they were, the

conse-

snow

fell

extraordinary depth, in

quence of which, they suffered greatly for want

of provisions.
time,

In this vicinity, the

snow was,

at

no

more than two

20.
c

feet and an half deep.

is

Monday,
Mr. A. R.

The snow

fast

dissolving.

M Leod and company, have just

;

arrivr

ed from the Encampment Island

and they bring

the melancholy intelligence of the death of Mr.

Andrew
c

M Kenzie, natural
c

son of Sir Alexander

M Renzie.
the 1st
inst..

He

expired at Fort Vermillion, on

man,
also,

is

regretted by
us,

The death of this amiable young They, all who knew him.

inform

that several Canadians

have

lost

Harmon's journal.
their
lives

177
of Great

by famine,

in

the vicinity
survived,

Slave Lake.

Those who

were under
reported,

the necessity of subsisting, several days, upon the

flesh of their

dead companions.
killed his wife

It

is

that one

man

and

child, in

order to

supply himself with food, who, afterwards, himself

starved to death.
this part

These Canadians came up

into

of the world, free, to

hunt the beaver,

&c. and they were at too great a distance from

our establishments., to receive any aid from

until
it

us,

was too

late,

for the

greater part of

them.
It is not

unfrequently the case, that, the

sur-

viving part of a band of the Natives, subsist upon

the flesh of their dead companions, led to do

sustain
it

when compelto
it

for
I

want of other

food, sufficient
is

life.

know

woman who,
In the

said

ate

of no less than fourteen of her friends and relations,

the

the

summer season, Indians can find food, almost any where but case is far otherwise, when the ground is covduring one winter.
;

ered with snow, to the depth of several

Wednesday, 22.
bark, to
to the

feet.

Sent people to look for birch

take
out

make

canoes, to

our returns

Rainy Lake.

The

greater part of the cainto the

noes, in

which we bring our merchandise

country, will not answer to transport our furs be-

low.

23

178

harmon's journal.
Thursday, April
6.

The weather

is

mild.
re-

The

people,

whom we

sent for bark, have

turned, with one

hundred and eighty fathoms,

nine canoes, that will carry about

which

will

make

two

tons

burthen, each.

Two men

will

easily

transport one of them on

their shoulders,

across

the portages.

Tuesday, 11.

Geese and bustards begin

This morning, the
ice
in

to

come from the

river broke up.

south.
this

Tuesday, 18.

Saturday,
all

May

6.

The

surrounding plains are

on

fire.

We have planted
We,

our

potatoes, and

sowed most of our garden

Thursday, 11.

seeds.

Our

people

are preparing to set out for the Rainy Lake.

yesterday, sent off eleven

canoes, loaded with the returns of this place* and

of St John's

and, early this

morning, Messrs. D.
J.

McTavish,
c

J.

G.

M'Tavish, F. Goedike and

M Gillivray,
noes,
liam.
this place.

embarked on board of two light cabound for the Rainy Lake and Fort WilBut I am to pass the ensuing summer, at

The

last
I

winter was, to me, the most

in this

agreeable one that

have yet spent

country.
us,

The

greatest

harmony prevailed among

the

days glided on smoothly, and the winter passed,

almost imperceptibly, away.
Tuesday, 16.
In the morning,

Messrs. Simon

179

Frazer and James

ed, in four canoes.

M Dougall
c

and company,

arriv-

The

former gentleman came

is

from the Rocky Mountain Portage, which

from

about

one hundred and eighty miles, up this River.

later
is

The
this,

New

Caledonia, on
is

the west side of

distant

the

Rocky Mountain, which

from

about four hundred and

fifty miles.

After passing

the most of the day with me, they continued their

route toward the

Rainy Lake.
2.

Friday, June
in

The

seeds which

we sowed

the garden, have sprung up, and

grow remarkis,

ably well.

The

present prospect

that straw-

berries, red raspberries,

will

shad berries, cherries,

&c

be abundant,

this season.
ris-

This river since the beginning of May, has en twelve feet perpendicularly
tinues to rise.
;

and

it still

con-

This circumstance
rain,

arises,

in part,

from the large quantity of

fallen,

which has lately

but more,

presume, from the dissolving of

the snow, on and near the

Tuesday, 13.
says, that

An

Indian has

Rocky Mountain. come here, who

;

one of their chiefs has lately died

and
to
;

he requests that we furnish a chief's clothing

be put on him, that he
and, also, that

may

be decently interred

we would supply
;

a small quantity

of spirits, for his relations and friends to drink, at

his

interment

all

of which

have

sent,

for the

deceased was a friendly Indian.

Nothing pleases

180

Harmon's journal.

an Indian better, than to see his deceased rela*

tives,

handsomely attired
will arrive
in

for

he believes that

they

the other world, in the same

clad,

dress, with

which they are

when they
since,

are

consigned to the grave.

Wednesday, July

19.

few days

Mr.

John Stuart and company, came here, from

Caledonia, for goods
their return home.
;

New

and to day, they set out on

During the few days which

I

that gentleman passed here,

isfaction

derived

much

sat-

from

his

society.

We
r

rambled about

the plains, conversing as

we w ent, and now and

then stopping, to eat a few berries, which are

every where to be found.

He

has evidently read

I

and reflected much.

How
life

happy should
in this

be to

have such a companion, during the whole summer.

But such

is

our

mode of
;

country, that

we meet
together,

but seldom
is

and the time that we remain

only begin to find the ties
closely together,

short.

We

of friendship, binding us

when

we

are compelled to separate, not to

meet again

perhaps for years to come.

Baptiste

La

Fleur,

my

interpreter, will accomSt. John's,

pany Mr. Stuart and

in

his

men, as far as

hopes of obtaining some information respecting

brother, who,
it

his

is

supposed, was killed by

an Indian,

the last

spring,

while on his

way

from the Rocky Mountain Portage

to St. John's.

Harmon's journal.
Wednesday, July 19.
returned from
to
St.

181

Baptiste

La Fleur
respecting

has

Johns, without having been able

intelligence,
his

obtain the

least

poor brother, and the two Indians,

ing

who were comall

down

the river, in the same canoe with him.

We

are, therefore,

apprehensive that
in

three of

them have been drowned,

rapids,
as

coming down the

of

their
fir

canoe was
tree,

made

the

bark

of the spruce

and was, therefore, very

weak.
Friday, 21.

We
soil

have cut down our barley;

I

and

think

it is

the finest that

ever saw

in

any

country.
this river

The
is

on the points of land, along

excellent.

The mother of the chief, who died this summer, and who is far advanced in years, now remains
the
in a tent, at the distance of a

few rods from

and unable

fort.

Many

of the Natives, of both sexes,

old

when they become

and

infirm,

to

travel with their relations,

who depend upon

down near our

the

chase for subsistence, and are frequently moving

from place to place,

settle

forts

and
aid,

it is

easy for us to render them more effectual

than their friends could possibly afford them.

Almost every day,

just

as

the sun

is

sinking

below the horizon, the old lady, above mentioned,

goes to the place where her deceased son,
alive,

was accustomed

to

when encamp, when he came

182
to the fort,

harmok's journal.

and there weeps, and

dear son, come to
son?"
in

sings a mournful
is

kind of song, of which the following

tion.

a transla-

"

My

me

why do you
and melan-

leave me,

my

This she repeats for two

hours together,

the most plaintive

choly tone imaginable.

It
is

customary for the women, among the

Beaver

Indians,

when they

lose a near relation, to

;

cut off a joint of one of their fingers

and, in con-

sequence of so barbarous a custom, we frequently

see

some of

their

aged women, who want the

finger,

first

two

joints of

every

on both hands.

The
by

men
ting

content themselves, on such occasions, by cutoff their

hair,

close

to

their heads, and faces

scratching or cutting their

and arms,

fre-

quently

in

a most barbarous and shocking manner.

Indians are a peaceable and quiet

The Beaver

people, and, perhaps, the most honest of any, on

the face of the earth.
;

Theft

is

rarely committed

among them and when one of their tribe is known to have stolen, he is regarded with a detestation, like that which follows a highwayman
in civilized countries.

Formerly, their clothing

skins

was-'

made of the
but the great-

of the buffaloe,

moose, and red deer, and

;

their

arms were bows and arrows

er part of them, are

now

clothed with European

goods, and are supplied

with

fire

arms.

They

Harmon's journal.

183

have, also, iron axes and knives, in the place of

those which were

made
1.

of stone and of bone.

Friday, September

Fowls begin

to

leave

the north, to go to the southward.

Friday, October

6.

As the weather begins

to

be cold, we

have taken our vegetables out of the

ground, which
tive.

we

find to

have been very produc-

Saturday,

7.

Mr. A. R.
to the

M Leod and company,

c

passed this place, to-day,

are on their

in

three canoes, which

way

Rocky Mountain
from

Portage,

and thence to
delivered

New

Caledonia.

This gentleman
different

me

letters, not only

per-

sons in this country, but also from

my

relatives be-

low.

To

be informed,

in this

way, of the health

attend to the effu-

and prosperity of the

sions of their hearts,

latter, to

and a detail of many of the

lives,

circumstances of their
agination,
for

transports
into

me

in

im-

a short season,

the midst of

their society, and

communicates a pleasure resemintercourse.

bling that of personal

Excellent
us
to

in-

vention of letters

thus to enable

keep up

a kind of conversation with beloved friends, while

separated from them by thousands of miles.

Sunday, February 25, 1810.

of the 15th
living
inst.

On

the

evening

my woman was
appear,
;

delivered of two
to

boys.

They

however,

have

been prematurely born

and, from the

first, little

184

Harmon's journal.
sur-

hope was entertained that they would long

vive.

One

of

them died on the morning of the

;

22d, and the other the last night

and

to day,

they were both buried

in

the same
it

coffin.

He
had

who gave them

life,

has taken
;

away.

He
his

an undoubted right so to do

and though

ways

are to us, inscrutable, he has the best reasons for

whatever he does.

It

becomes
this

us,

therefore,

humbly
tion.

to

acquiesce

in

afflictive

dispensa-

Thursday,

May

3.

This day, the

ice

in

the

river broke up.

Tuesday, 15.

Early

this

morning, Mr. D.

Tavish and company,

and
this

set
J.

out for Fort William

afternoon,

Mr.

Clarke and company,

on their way
if

from

St. John's,

passed
I

this,

to the

Rainy Lake.
permit,
at

But
this

shall remain,

providence

place,
is

during another
;

summer.

The

local situation

pleasant
I

and we have good

horses,

by means of which,

can, at pleasure

make

excursions into the surrounding plains, over which

are scattered buffaloes, moose, red deers, antelopes, black and grey bears, &c.
intelligent
I shall

have no
converse.

companion, with

whom

to

But

this deficiency will

be

in a

measure supplied,
I

by a good
furnished.

collection

of books, with which

not for this resource,

am
a

Were

it

many

dreary day would pass over me.

haemon's journal.
Tuesday, 22.

185

Messrs.
this

J.

Stuart, and

H. Faries

and company, passed

with the returns, of

place in four canoes,

New

Caledonia and

Rocky
they

Mountain Portage
are on their

and, like

many

others,

way

to the

Rainy Lake.

Saturday, June 23.

that

The

last night

was so

cold,

the

tops

of

our

potatoes

were

frozen.

This morning, as several red deer were crossing

from the opposite side of the

and succeeded
rived from

river,

one of our

people leaped into a canoe, and pursued

in killing

them,

one of them.

Thursday, September 13.

Two men
who
this

have

ar-

New

Caledonia,

bring the disaseason,

greeable intelligence, that salmon,

not

do

come up the
this

rivers

of that region, as usual.

As

kind of

fish

forms the principal article of

it

food,

both for the Natives and white people,

will all

is

apprehended that they

cessity of proceeding
until

be under the ne-

towards the Pacific Ocean,

they find a people

who have been more

3.

fa-

voured by Providence.
Wednesday, October

We

have taken our

find,

potatoes out of the ground, x and

bushels,

that nine
last,

which we planted the 10th of may

little

have produced a
fifty

more than one hundred and

in

bushels.

The
is

other vegetables
in

our garden

have yielded an increase, much

portion,

the same prothe

soil

which

sufficient proof, that

of

24

186

harmon's journal.
is

the points of land, along this river,

good.

In-

deed,
oats,

am

of opinion, that wheat, rye, barley,

pease, &c. would

us. 6.

grow well

in

the plains

around

Saturday, October

Mr. John Stuart and comhave arrived from Fort

for the estab-

pany, in four

canoes,

Chipewyan, having on board, goods

ishment at the

Rocky Mountain Portage and

This gentleman delivered

New

Caledonia.

me

a packet of letters from home, and also a

number

of others from gentlemen

in

this

country, one of

which
fairs

is

a joint letter, signed

by three of the partaf-

ners, requesting

me

to

go and superintend the

or,
if I

of

New

Caledonia;

prefer

it,

to ac-

company Mr.
until the

Stuart, as second in

command
it is

to him,

next^pring, at which time

presumed,

that

shall

have learned

sufficient of

the state of

things in that country, to assume the

whole mansev-

agement myself.
mation which
afford

As Mr. Stuart has passed

country, the

eral years in that part of the

his

infor-

experience will enable him to be of great service.

I

me,

will

prefer,

therefore, accompanying him, to going alone, especially in

view of the
in

late unfavourable

reports

from that country,

sistence.

regard to the means of sub-

Wednesday, October 10.

St

John's.

On

the

7th Mr. Stuart and myself, with our company,

Harmon's journal.
left

187
arrived here.

Dunvegan
current
in

and

this evening,

we

The
sides

the river begins to be

it

much

strong-

er than

we found

below Dunvegan.
hills

On

both

of the river, are

of a considerable

which are almost destitute of timber of any kind. At different places, \%e saw buffaloes, red deer, and bears. During our passage to this The snow and place, the weather has been bad.
height,
rain

have

been

very

unpleasant,

unprotected

against them, as

we

are, in our

open canoes.
preparing
Caledonia.

Thursday, 11.

In the early part of the day,

in

our people were busily employed

provisions to

take with

us

to

New

This

afternoon,
in

Mr.

Stuart

and company em-

barked

three canoes,

for the
little

Rocky Mounstill

tain Portage.

Having a

business

to

transact,

I shall pass the night here.

Monday,
'

15,

Rocky Mountain Portage

nearly
eight

Fort.

We
day
;

here

find

inches

of

snow.

Mr. Stuart
and and
I

and

company reached here yesterarrived this morning. Between this

the
river
is

place
its

St. John's,

very on

rapid,

banks are high,

it,

and the

country,

both

sides of

is

generally clothed with

small tim-

ber.

Ever

since our arrival,

we have been emthis place,

ployed

in delivering

goods for

and
to

di-

viding the remainder

among our

people,

be

taken on their backs, to the oiher

end of the

188
portage, which

Harmon's journal.
is

twelve miles over, through

rough and

hilly country.

We

leave our canoes

and take others,

rying place.

at the other

end of the car-

From

the great Slave

Lake
is

to

this

place,

there are few rapids, and only one fall;

several places, the current terday,

but at

very strong.

Yes-

we came up one of these places;

our progress was very slow,
I

and

and

as

went on

shore alone, to walk along the beach.

Having
a
a

proceeded some distance,

arrived

at

place
con-

which

could not pass, without making

I,

siderable turn into the #woods.

therefore, left

the side of the river, and, after

a mile or two,
path, which
to the fort.
I I

having walked
beaten
foot-

fell

upon a well
had followed
it

supposed would take

After
I

me
it

directly

for several

miles, I perceived that

had been trodden by

I

wild animals, and was as

in a different direction

thought, leading
I

me
my

from that which

to

ought

to

have taken.
;

was unwilling

retrace

steps

and

I,

therefore, proceeded in

a different
river, farI

direction,

hoping soon to come to the

I left it.

ther up than the place where

marchthrough

ed a good pace,
the snow, eight

for a considerable time,

inches in depth,

until

found

myself

in

swampy

country, thickly wooded,

hori-

when

the sun was just sinking below the

Harmon's journal.
zon.

189

Even while the light lasted, I knew not which way to steer but it soon became so dark,
;

that

could not distinguish any

object,

at
I

the

distance of

more than ten yards from me.

fire
;

had

no means of striking
ing element,
it

and without

this

cheer-

would have been uncomfortable

I

and unsafe encamping.

must have suffered

se-

verely with the cold; and might have been torn

in

pieces

by wild
I

beasts,

which are numerous

it

in

this

region.

concluded

best, therefore,

to

continue walking, until the light of the

morning

me to find the bank of the river. Contrary to my expectation, however, a kind Providence directed my way, out of that dreary
should enable

swamp, where
knees
in

at

every step,

sunk up to

my

snow,

mud and
I

water.

With great joy, about

the river side, which
tance,

ten o'clock,

reached

followed down, some dis-

where

found

our

people,
fire.

encamped
During the

around a large and cheering

greater part of this excursion,

the rain poured

down

in torrents.

Wednesday, 17.

Mountain Portage.
self

North West end of the Rocky In the morning, Mr. S. myleft

and our company,

the

fort

and, this
find

evening,

we reached
which,
I

this

place,

where we
that

some of our people, repairing

noes, in

four, crazy, old ca-

should

suppose

no

one

190

Harmon's journal.
willing to

would be
value to

embark, who attaches much

of our hands

life.

The remainder

are
is

employed
still

in

transporting our baggage, which

behind, to this place.

this,

They

are

assisted in

doing
nies.

by some of the Natives, who are Sicau-

side

pass

They have just returned from the other of the Rocky Mountain, where they go to the summer months. During the winter
find buffaloes,

season, they remain on this side of the Mountain,

where they

moose and deer.

On

the other side, none of these animals, excepting a

few straggling

ones, are to be found.

The
whose
and

Sicaunies are a quiet, inoffensive

people,

situation exposes

them

to peculiar difficulties

distresses.

When

they proceed to the west

region,
kill

side of the mountain, the Natives of that

who

are

Tacullies

and Atenas, attack and

this

many

of

them

and when they are on

side,

the Beaver

Indians and

Crees, are continually

making war upon them.

Being thus surrounded

they are too feeble
they frequently suffer
for

by

enemies, against

whom
;

successfully

to contend,

much
side,

for

want of food

when on

the west

they dare not, at

fish

all

times, visit those places,

where
side,

are in plenty, and

when on the
visit

east

they are frequently afraid to

abound.

those parts,

where animals

They

are compelled,

therefore, oftentimes to subsist

upon the

roots,

HARMON
which they
ly enable

JOURNAL.

191

find in the mountains,

and which bare-

them

to sustain life

and their emaci-

ated bodies frequently bear witness, to the scantiness of their fare.

We
tance.

here begin to see lofty mountains at a

dis-

This place

is

in

the 56of North Latitude,

and 121 of West Longitude.

Monday,
ing the

22.

It

has snowed and rained, durday.

whole of

this

We

are

now

in

the

heart of the

Rocky Mountain,

the lofty summits of

which, on each side of the river, tower majestically

toward the heavens, and are perpetually whitare

ened by snows, that

solar heat.
tains that I

never dissolved, by
highest mountimber, which
fir,

They

are by far the

have ever seen.

is

The

grows upon them,

poplar.
It is

chiefly spruce

birch and

a curious fact, in the geography of

riv-

North America, that so many of the lakes and

ers,

on the west side of this lofty range of moundischarge their waters through one narrow

tains,

passage, in this great barrier, and eventually enter the North Sea.

Wednesday, 22.
the
since

Although
river

we

have found
strong,

current

in

this

very

ever

we

left

until this

day,

the Rocky Mountain Portage, yet, we have found no place where we

were under the necessity of unloading our canoes,

in

order

to

stem the current.

This afternoon,

92

Harmon's journal.

just as

we

got through the mountain,

we passed
to

Finlay's

or the

North Branch, which appears

as

be of about

the same magnitude

the South

Branch, which

we

are
rise

following.
in

These two
direcin

branches take their

tions.

very

different
is

The

source of the South Branch,

,at

the

Rocky Mountain,

the distance

of nearly two
are.

hundred miles from the place where we now

The North Branch

called

runs out of a very large

lake,

by the Natives Musk- qua Sa-ky-e-gun, or

Bears Lake.

This lake, which

is
it

so large that the

in their canoes,
it,

Indians never attempt to cross

and which, those

affirm,

who

reside at the east end of

is

extends to the Western Ocean,

situated

nearly west from the place where the two bran-

ches form a junction, at the distance, as

of about one hundred and
fifty miles.

is

thought

Both bran-

ches, before their junction, run along the foot of

the mountain, as

if in

search of a passage through.

1.

Thursday, November

Leod's

Lake

Fort.

This place
J

is

situated in 55

North Latitude, and

country
lying
is

24

West Longitude.
this

The

be-

tween
er

place and Finlay's Branch,

thickly
rivis

covered with timber,

;

on both sides of the

and, on the right, in coming up, the land

level.

low and

Mountains,

it is

true, are

to

be

seen; but they appear at a considerable distance.

We

have not seen a large animal, nor even the

Harmon's journal.
track
tain

193

of

one, since

we

left

the

Rocky Mounfrom
this

Portage.

About twenty

miles

place*

we

left

Peace River, and have come up a

passes through a small lake.

small river, of five or six rods in breadth, which,

a
little

below

this,

Here, we leave our canoes, and take our goods

by land, to the establishment

at

Stuart's

Lake,

which place

is

situated nearly one

this.
;

hundred miles
a

to the west from

There
it

is

passage by
that

water to that lake

but
it

is

so

circuitous,

we

could not

make

in less

than twelve or fifteen

days.

M Leod's Lake
c

may be

sixty or seventy miles

fish

in

circumference.
;

Small white

and trout are

here subsist,

here taken
during the
salmon,

but those
greater

who

reside

part of the year, on dried

which are
Indians

brought

in

the

winter,

on

sledges, drawn by dogs, from Stuart's Lake.

The
those,

who

frequent this establishment,

are Sicaunies, and belong to the same tribe with

who

take their furs to the

Rocky Mountain
little

Portage.
of the

Their dialect
Indians.

differs

but

from that
in

Beaver
for

They appear to be
frequently
;

wretched

circumstances,

suffering

much

want of food
the
necessity

and they

are

often

driven to

of subsisting

on roots.
part of

There are but few large animals,

the country
;

in this

and when the snow

is

five or six feet

25

194
deep, as
is

Harmon's journal.
frequently the case in the winter,
fish

few

beavers can be taken, nor can many

in this

be caught,

cold season of the year.

Yet

after all the

in

difficulties

which these people encounter,

is

proto

curing a subsistence, such

their attachment
birth,

the

country

that

gave

them
it,

that they

would not

willingly

exchange

for any other part

of the world.

Wednesday, 17.
called by the

Stuarfs Lake.

This lake

is

Natives Nuck-aws-lay, and the esit,

tablishment on

where we now
in
I left

are,

is

situated

in 54 30' North Latitude, and

125

West Longiat

tude.
c

On

the third instant,

Mr. Stuart

M Leod's
men,
I

Lake, where he designs to pass the

winter; and, accompanied by thirteen labouring

arrived
I

at

this place, this

afternoon.

In

coming here,

passed over an uneven country,

which

is

in

general thickly covered with timber.

We

saw, on our way, several lakes or ponds, one

of which was about six miles long.

This
rise of

fort stands in a

very pleasant place, on a

ground, at the east end of Stuart's Lake,

I

which

am

informed,

is

at least

three

hundred

miles in circumference.

At the
fort,

distance of about

two hundred rods from the

a considerable river

uns out of the lake, where the Natives,

who

call

themselves Taeullies, have a village or rather a

few small

huts, built of

wood.

At these they

re-

Harmon's journal.

195

main

cjwring the season

for taking

and drying

sal-

mon, on which they

part of the year.

subsist,

during the greater

Monday,

12.

have sent

J.

M. Quesnel,

acas-

companied by ten labouring men, with a small

the post there.

sortment of goods, to Frazer's Lake, to reestablish

That lake
this.

lies

nearly

Mty

miles due west from the Indians, this

fall,

We
in

understand that

have taken and dried a conthat

vicinity.
I

siderable quantity of salmon,

have

also sent people

to

the

other side

of this
fish,

lake, hoping they will take a

few white

al-

though the season, in which

is

we

usually take them,

nearly past.

Wednesday,
the
fort,

14.

The
the
last

lake,

opposite

to

froze over

night.

To

day

Mr. Stuart and company, arrived from

Lake.
Saturday, 17.

Leod's

We

have now about eight

in-

ches of snow on the ground.

Sunday, 18.

Mr. Stuart and company, have

I

gone to Frazer's Lake.

accompanied them
1

to

the other side of this lake, where

Indians belonging to the
village

saw
this

all

the

in

vicinity.

They amount
circumstances

to about one

hundred

souls, are
in

very

poorly clothed, and, to us, appear to be

;

wretched

but they are, notwithstanding, con-

tented and cheerful.

My

interpreter informs me,

196

Harmon's journal.
strongly resembles thaj spok;

that their language

en by the Sicaunies
ly constituted a part

and no doubt they formerof the same tribe, though

in

they

now

differ

from them,
Sicaunies

their

manners and

customs.
lies,

The
26.

bury, while the Tacul-

burn their dead.

Monday,
place,

The

corpse of a

woman

of this

who

died on the 20th instant, was burned this

afternoon.

While the ceremony was performing,

the Natives
ing, crying,

made

a terrible sav age noise,

singing.

by howl-

and a kind of

Saturday, December

29.

Frazer's Lake;

In

coming

to this place,

passed through a country,

which

is

very rough, and thickly covered with timfir,

ber, consisting of spruce,

press, &c.
tain,

poplar, aspin, birch, cy-

We

crossed

one considerable moun-

and several small lakes.

This establishment
zer's

is

at the east
its

end of Frathat of

Lake, which received

name from
this,

the gentleman,

who

first built

here, in 1806.

At

the distance of about a mile from

out of this lake,

there runs

a considerable river,
a large village, and

where the
where they

Natives

have

take and dry salmon.

or ninety miles
in

This lake may be eighty

and
is

circumference,
fish, trout,
1,

well

supplied with white

&c.

Tuesday, January
first

1311.

This being the

day of another year, our people have passed

Harmon's journal.
it,

197
in

according to the custom of the Canadians,

drinking and fighting.

Some

of the

principal In-

dians of this place, desired us to allow

them
little

to re-

main

at the fort, that

they might see

our people
intox-

drink..

As soon
and
to

as

they began to be a

icated,
tives

to quarrel

among themselves,
also.

the Na-

began

be apprehensive, that something

unpleasant might befal them,

fore hid themselves

They, there-

under beds, and elsewhere,

white people had

saying, that they thought the

run mad, for they appeared not to

know what
that those

they were about.

They perceived
in

who were
the day,
in

the most beastly in the early part of

the latter part,

became the most quiet

view of which, they exclaimed, " the senses of

the white people have returned to

them
that

again,"

and they appeared not a

change
;

little

surprised at

the

for, it

was the

first

time,

they had

ev%f seen a person intoxicated.

Sunday, 27.

This day the Natives have burnchiefs,

ed the corpse of one of their

the early part

who

died

in

of this

month.

Shortly after his

death, one of his nieces painted her face with Vermillion; and, in other respects arrayed

herself in

the gayest
ing this

manner

possible.

Her

mother, observin

unbecoming conduct, reproved her

"

the

following manner.

Are you not ashamed, my

daughter," said she, " to appear so gaily clad, so

198

Harmon's journal*
?

soon after the decease of your uncle

You ought

rather to daub your face with black, and to cut

your hair short to your head."

This reproach for

af-

the apparent destitution of natural affection, so

flicted

the

girl, that,

soon after, she went into a

neighbouring wood, and hung herself, from the

limb of a tree.

Happily

for her,

however, some

people passed that way, before she had long been

in this situation,
first,

and took her down.

She was,

at

senseless

but soon after recovered.

Instan-

ces of suicide,

by hanging, frequently occur, among

all
;

the

women

of

the tribes, with

whom

have

been acquainted
to take

but the

men

are seldom

known

away

their

own

lives.

Wednesday, 30.
cut a hole in a

Two
in

nights since,

an Indian
is

window

my

room, which

made
I

of parchment, at the distance

of not more than

two
ticles

feet

from the foot of

my

bed, where
it,

lay
ar-

asleep, and took

from a

table, near

several

of clothing.

The

next morning, two other

Indians brought back to

property, and informed

me a part me who the

Soon
I

of the stolen
thief was, and

where he could be
nied by

found.

after,

accompa-

my

interpreter,

went, and found the

young

villain, in

a hut under ground, along with

about twelve others,

himself.
I

who

are as great thieves as

told him, that, as

first

he was young,
he

hop-

ed

this

was the

time

had ever been

Harmon's journal.
guilty

199

of theft

and.

provided

he

would

reI

turn

all

the property which he had taken away,

this offence
;

would forgive
in future

but

if

he should ever
us,
I

be guilty of any misconduct toward

and, shortly after,

he

might depend on being severely punished.

returned to our house
dians brought
;

then
In-

two

me

the remainder of the property

which had been

Nearly
are few

stolen,

and

gave them a

little

ammunition, for having made

all

known the

thief.

the Tacullies, or Carriers as

we
us.

call

them, are much addicted to pilfering;

but there

among them who dare

steal

from

Friday, February 15.

Yesterday and to-day,

at

we

found the cold to be more intense, than

this season.

any other time

Monday,
er,

18.

Baptiste Bouche,

my

interpret-

has taken the daughter of one of the Carrier

chiefs, as a wife.
tribe,

She
5.

is

the

first

woman

of that

ever kept by any of the white people.

Stuarfs Lake.
In the morn-

Friday, April
ing,
I

left

and abandoned the post at Frazer's

this evening.
is

Lake, and arrived here

Monday,

15.

The weather

pleasant, and

seems to presage an early spring.

with us
to

Swans
first

and

ducks of several kinds, have passed the winter

;

but bustards and geese,

their appearance.

now

begin

make

200
Sunday
',

Harmon's journal.
21.

A
my

few days

since,
c

sent

the

greater part of

people to

M Leod's

Lake, to

prepare for the voyage from that place to the

Rainy Lake.
myself, in
for
tle
c

Tomorrow, I shall leave this place' company with Mr. Quesnel and others,
Lake.
I shall

M Leod's

take with

me my

lit-

son George,
for the

who was

three years old last De-

cember,

purpose of sending him to

my
may
at

friends in the United States, in order that he

receive an English education.

will

Mr.
he

J.

M. Quesnel

have the care of him,

Wednesday, 24.

until

shall arrive

Montreal.

Leod's Lake.

find

Mr,

Stuart and the

men very
the

busy, in preparing for

the

voyage
is

to

Rainy Lake.
by
fifteen

The
the

spring
it

here

less

advanced,

days, than

was

at Stuart's
I

Lake.
is

This great difference

ol

climate,

conclude,

owing

to

fact,

that

this place lies

nearer the mountains.

Wednesday,

May
my

8.

People

have just

ar-

rived from Stuart's Lake,

who

inform

me

that

the

mother

of

son

was delivered on the

25th ultimo, of a daughter,

whom

name

Polly

Harmon.

As the
it

ice in

Peace River begins

to be bad,
navi-

is

expected that a few days hence the

will

gation

be

opened,

when
will

Messrs.

Stuart,

Quesnel, and their company,

embark, with

Harmon's journal.

201

the returns of this place, for the Rainy Lake. Tomorrow, I design to return to Stuart's Lake, where I expect to pass the ensuing summer. But

my

attention

is

chiefly taken

up with the separa-

tion,

which is soon to take place between

son.

me and my
will

beloved

few months hence, he

be at
;

a great distance from his affectionate father

it

and,

may

be, I

shall

never more see him,

in this

world.

No

consideration could induce

is

me

to send

him down,

especially while he

so young, except-

ing the thought, that he will soon

fostering care of

be under the

my

kind relatives,

who
it

will

be

able to educate him

possible for
I

much

better than

would be

me

to do, in this savage country.

I

As

do that which
of

apprehend
so
I

will

be for the ben-

efit

my

little son,

earnestly pray, that

in his

God

would graciously protect him,

me.
Sunday, 12.
this

absence from

Stuarfs Lake,

Here,

arrived

afternoon, after having

I

passed four of the

most disagreeable days that

ever experienced.

My
in

spirits

were dejected,
child
;

in

view of the depart-

ure of

my

the snow, which was three feqt

late

depth, had become softened by the

warm

weather, so that walking was attended with great

fatigue
;

broke

which the Indian

my snow shoes, on the way, lad with me mended as well as

26

our circumstances would permit, though but poor-

202
ly
I
;

Harmon's journal.

and

finally

we had

scarcely any thing to eat.

am

happy, therefore, to find myself at a place

I

where

can enjoy a

little

repose,

after

such an

unpleasant jaunt.
Tuesday, 21.
lake broke up.

This afternoon, the

ice in

this

Musquetoes begin

to

come about
in

and troublesome companions they are

derness.

the

wil-

Wednesday,
the ground,

"22.

As the

frost

is

now

out of

we have

planted

our potatoes, and

first

sowed

barley, turnips. &c.

which are the

that

we ever sowed, on this west side of the We now take trout in this lake, with
lines, in

mountain.
set

hooks

and

considerable numbers

but they are

little

not of a good kind.

It

is,

perhaps, a

remark-

able, that pike or pickerel

in

have never been found

on the west side of

any of the lakes and

rivers,

the

Rocky Mountain.
Tuesday, June 11.

Three

Indians have arriv-

ed from Sy-cus, a

village, lying

about one hundred

and thirty miles down

is

this river,

who

say,

that

if

reported by others, from farther down, that

is

there

a very extraordinary and powerful being

here, from the sea, who,

on his

way

when he

ar-

rives, will

transform

me

into a stone, as
;

well as

perform many other miraculous deeds

simple and credulous Natives

and the

fully believe this re-

port

Harmon's journal.
Sunday, 16.
ed, in six large

203

number of

Indians have arriv-

wooden

canoes, from the other end

of this lake

and among them are two, a father

say, that they belong to a tribe,

and

his son,
call

who

who
the
here.

themselves Nate-ote-tains.

These are
numerous,

first

of that nation,
state, that

whom we

have ever seen

is

They

their tribe

and scattered,

in villages,

over a large extent of

;

country, lying directly west from this

is

and that

it

not more than five or six days' march, to their

nearest village.

They,

also,

inform

us,

that

a
at

large river passes through

their country,
it,

and

no considerable distance from

Ocean.

enters the Pacific

a

They,

likewise,

say, that
in

number of

white people come up that river,

autumn,
in

barges, every

order to trade with the Indians,

its

who

reside along

shores.

But

could not learn

from them, to what nation those white people belong.

I

imagine, however, that they are Amerito carry on,

cans,

who come round Cape Horn,

is

what

called a coasting trade

for, I

cannot learn

that they ever attempted to

make

establishments,

along the sea coast. Tuesday, July

2.
c

Yesterday, five Sicaunies

came here, from

small
sired

M Leod's
them
to

Lake,

who form

war

party.

Their leader, or war chief dego where they might

I

me

to allow
;

think proper

upon which,

inquired of them,

204

Harmon's journal.

whither they wished to direct their course, and

W hat
T

their business

w as.
T

The

speaker replied,
their

that,

when they

left

their lands,

intention

was

to

go and try to take a scalp or two from the

Indians of Frazer's Lake, u who," he added, " have

done us no

injury.

But we have

lost

relation

and we must try to revenge his death, on some

one."

This

is

custom common
the tribes.

to

a greater

or

less extent to
I

all

asked him whether he supposed that

we

supplied
ble
kill

them with guns and ammunition,

I

to ena-

them

to destroy their fellow creatures, or to

the beaver, &c.

added, that should they,

in the fall, bring in

an hundred scalps, they could

procure a pint of rum, or a
but, if they

not,

with them
full

all,
;

pipe

of tobacco

would bring beaAfter reflecting

the speaker
in-

ver

skins,

they would be able to purchase the ar-

ticles

which they would need.

I

for

some time on what

had

said,
in

formed me, that they would,

compliance with
;

my

advice, return and hunt the beaver

and they

performed their promise, by proceeding immediately to their

own

lands.

Monday,

29.

Several days since, one of our

at

men, who remains

M Leod's Lake,
c

with the information,

came here that there were Indians

waiting,
as

lurking around that fort, posed, for

was supattack

favourable

opportunity to

Harmon's journal.
it.

205
I
I

I9

accordingly,

went over, hoping that

they were
;

should

be able to ascertain who

specting them.

but

have

not been able to obtain the least information re-

Probably, they had not courage

to

to make the attack, and have returned own lands. Shad berries begin to ripen, which

their

is

about

twenty days later than they ripen,

Latitude, on the east side
tain.

in

the same

of the

Rocky Mounstock of provis-

Friday, August

2.

Our whole

ions in the fort, for ten persons, consists of five sal-

mon, only.
fish

It is

impossible, at this season, to take

out of this lake or river.

sea,

Unless the salmon

from the

soon

make
all

their

appearance, our

condition will be deplorable.

Saturday, 10.

Sent

our people, consisting

of men,

women, and

children, to gather berries at

Pinchy, a village about twelve miles distant from

this,

toward the other end of

this
I

lake.

At no
Natives
sal-

great distance from that village, as

am

informed,

there

is

a small lake, out

fish,

of which the

take small

which very much resemble a

in flavour,

mon
than

in

shape and

which are not more

are
said to
so,

six inches long.

;

They

be very

palatable

but, if they

were not

they would

be very acceptable
stances.

to us, in

our present circum-

206

Harmon's journal.
Thursday, 22.

One

of the Natives has caught

all
;

a salmon,

which

is

joyful intelligence to us

for

we hope and
have them
in

expect, that, in a few days,

we

shall

abundance.
all

These

fish

visit, to

greater or less extent,

the rivers in this region,

and form the principal dependence of the inhabit

tants, as the

means of subsistence. Monday, September 2. We now have the

in

common salmon
five to

abundance.

They weigh from

are, also, a

seven pounds.

There
will

few of

larger kind,

which

weigh
But,

sixty or seventy

pounds.

Both of them are very good, when

just

taken out of the water.

when

dried, as they

are by the Indians here, by the heat of the sun, or

in the

smoke of a
salted,

fire,

they are not very palatable.

When

they are excellent.

the

As soon
they go
fall

as

salmon come

into

this lake,

in

search of the rivers and brooks, that

into it;

and these streams they ascend so

to enable
;

far

is water them to swim and when they can proceed no farther up, they remain there and die. None were ever seen to descend these streams. They are found dead in such

as there

numbers,

in

some

places, as to

infect

the atmos-

phere, with a terrible stench, for a considerable

distance round.
putrified
state,

But, even
the

when they
frequently

are in a

Natives

gather

Harmon's journal.

207
as great

them up and eat them, apparently, with

a relish, as
if

thej were fresh.

Tuesday, 17.
this

Between

nine

and ten o'clock,

forenoon, the sun was eclipsed, for nearly

half an hour, which event alarmed the

Natives

greatly; for they considered

it

as foreboding

some

great calamity, about to

fall

upon them.
hands

They
full

therefore cried and howled, making a savage noise.

Their

priests or magicians took their

it

of
to-

swan's down, and blew

through their hands

ward the

sun, imploring that great luminary to ac-

cept of the offering, thus

on the head of

his sons,

made to him, when engaged

to be
in

put

dancing,
that the

and to spare the Indians.

They suppose

sun has children, who, like those of the Carriers,

down on their heads, when they dance. I explained to them the cause of the darkness at w hich they appeared both
are fond of putting swan's
T

pleased and astonished, and acknowledged that

my

account of the subject was rational, but wonI

dered how

could obtain

a knowledge

of such

hidden and mysterious things.

Monday, 23. Bustards and geese begin come from the north.
In the early part of the day,
I

to

found

it

neces-

sary to chastise the chief of this village, with considerable severity.

He

is

the

first

Indian that

208

Harmon's journal.

have ever struck during a residence of eleven

years, in this savage country.

The
chastised,

following

circumstances

attended

this

transaction.

The name

was Quas.

a worthless fellow, to

who was He had a friend, who was whom he wished me to adof the Indian,

vance goods on

credit,

which

declined doing for

I

two

reasons.

The

first

was, that

did not be-

lieve

that the

Indian would

ever pay

them.

The

other was, that Quas wished to

me for make

the Indians believe, that he had a great deal of

influence over us,

which would be
effect
it.

prejudicial to
tried

our interest,

if

he should

He
;

every

method, which he could devise, to persuade

advance the goods, but to no purpose
ceived what was his object.
that he

me

to

for I per-

He

then told me,

saw no other
and write
affairs

difference
:

between me and
6

himself, but this only

to read
;

'

you,' said he,

I

know how
not
?
I

but
well,

do

not.

Do

man-

age

my

as

as

you do yours

You

keep your

fort in order,
'

and make your

slaves,'

meaning my men,

obey you.

You send

a great

way
as

off for goods,

and you are rich and want for

I

nothing.

But do not
?

manage my
?

affairs as

well

you do yours
in

When

did you ever hear that

Quas was

danger of starving

When
I

it is

the

proper season to hunt the beaver,

kill

them

and of their flesh

make

feasts

for

my

relations.

Harmon's journal.
I,

209
village
off,
;

often, feast all the Indians

of

my

and,

sometimes, invite people

from afar
of

to
I

come

and partake of the

the season

fruits
fish

my

hunts.

know

when
I

spawn, and, then send

my
to

women, with the

take them.
family
is

nets

which they have made,

never want for any thing, and

my

always well clothed."

-In

this

manner,

the fellow proceeded, for a considerable time.

I

told

him that what he had

;

said,

concerning
6

himself and his family, was true

yet, I added,

am
of
it

master of

my own
6 6

property, and shall dispose

6

as I please.
to

Well,' said he,

I,
6

have you ever

I

been

war

No,' replied

nor do

desire to
6

take the

life

of any of
to

my

fellow creatures.'
he,
6

have been

war,'

continued

and

have

brought home many of the scalps of

1

my

enemies.'

was now strongly tempted

to

beat him, as his

object manifestly was, to intimidate

me.

'

But
evil

wished to avoid a quarrel, which might be

its

in

consequences

and especially to evince

spectators of what

to the

Indians,

who were
that
I

passed bein

tween
with

us,

was disposed

to

live

peace

them. Quas proceeded to try me another He asked me if I would trust him with a small piece of cloth, to make him a breech cloth ?
way.

This

consented to do, and went into the store,

it off.

to measure

He

followed

me

together with
Indians.

my

interpreter,

and ten or twelve other 27

210
I

Harmon's journal.
of cloth, and asked him,
?

took up a piece
it

if

he
I

would have

from that

He

answered, no.

then made a
piece, to

similar inquiry, respecting

another

which he made a similar

his only object

reply.
to

This

persuaded me, that

was

provoke

me

to

quarrel

with

him.

I,

therefore,
if

threw

down
have

the cloth, and told him,

that,

he would not

he should have
I

this,

(meaning a square
hand) with which

yard stick which

I

had

in

my

gave him a smart blow over the head, which

it,

cut

considerably.

then

sprang

over the

counter, and pelted him, for about five minutes,

during which time, he continually called

to his

companions,
hands, to

all

of

whom had

knives

in

their

come and take me

in

off.

But, they re-

plied that they could not, because

there

were

two other white people

prevent them.
It

the room,

who would
were
fort,

was happy

for us that these

;

Indians stood in such fear of us

for there
in

only four white men, at this time

the
us.

and they could

easily

have

murdered
he told

As
that

Quas and

his

company

left us,

me

he would see me again tomorrow, when the sun

should be nearly in the south, meaning between
ten and twelve o'clock.

Monday, October
one of
his

7.

The

next day after I

chastised the Indian, as above described, he sent

wives to request me, either to come

Harmon's journal.

211
I.

and see him, or to send him some medicine.

therefore,
sent

him some
in his

salve,

with which to

dress the

wound

head.

A
a

few days

after,
;

he became so well
vers,

as to

be able to hunt

and

he killed and brought

with which

he

number of beayesterday made a feast.

home

He
and

sent an invitation to
I

me

to attend this feast

for

concluded that
go,
*

it

would be necessary
I

me
in

to

or he might think that

I,

was afraid
of
pistols
side,

of him.

accordingly, put a brace

my

pocket, and

hung a sword by

my

arm himself in a We prosimilar manner, and to accompany me. ceeded to the house of the chief, where we found As soon nearly an hundred Indians, assembled.
and directed
interpreter to
as

my

we

arrived, he requested us to be seated.

in

He
and

then rose, and stood

the middle of the circle,

distinct
in

formed by the guests, and with a

elevated
voice,

made
to

a long harangue,

which

he did not forget

ing

make mention
to

of the beat-

which he had
it

lately received

from me.

He

said, if

had been given

him by any person

give to
life,

name which they me) he would have either lost his own
but the Big Knife (the

or

have taken that of the

person attacking

him.

But now, he
wife
;

said,

he considered himself as way, he

said, that

my
he

for

that was the

treated his

women

(of

whom

he has four) when

212
they behave
for

Harmon's journal.
ill.

He

said, that

he thanked

me

what
this
left

I 1

had done,

for

it

had given him

a

sense.

To
I

replied, that, in

remote country,

had

my

friends and relations,

who
this

wantworld,
artiI

ed for none of the good

things

of

and had come a great distance, with such

cles as the

Indians greatly needed, and which

for their furs, with

would exchange
purchase more
;

which
I

could

and

in
;

this

way,
I

could always

supply their necessities

Indians as

that

considered the
I

my
4

children, and that

must chastise

them when they behaved ill, because it was for their good. You all know,' said I, that I treat
'

good Indians
to the chief,

well,

and that

strive

to

live

in

peace with you.'

'

Yes,' replied the father-in-law

Big Knife speaks the truth.

My

son had no sense, and vexed him, and therefore

deserved the beating which he has received.'

Quas then
which he
After
ner,

told the Indians, that if he ever heard

of any of them laughing at him for the beating

had

received, he would

make them
in a

repent of their mirth. fl|

this the feast
I

was served up
in

man-

which

shall describe

another place.
the white

It will

be seen, by

this account, that

people have a great ascendency over the Indians

for,
I

believe that this chief

is

not destitute of
in

bravery.

But

it

is

very necessary,

order to

Harmon's journal.
secure ourselves from aggression, that
fest that

213

we

mani-

we

are not afraid of them.

Saturday, 12.

During the
;

last
it

three days,

it

has snowed continually

and

has fallen to the

depth of nearly two

feet.

Monday,
twenty
five

21.

We

have now

in in

our store,
a

thousand salmon.

Four

day are

allowed to each man.

people to take white
Thursday, 31.

have sent some of our

have arrived from

fish.

Two men

M Leod's
c

Lake, and have delivered

our people

me
c

several

letters,

one of which, from Mr. James

M Dougall,

who accompanied
by the
ice,

from the Rainy

about three days'
still

Lake, informs me, that the canoes were stopped

on the
12th
inst.

march below
on board.
Saturday,

c Leod's

Lake, where they

re-

main, together with the property which they had

November
fort,

16.

Our fishermen have

fish.

returned to the

and inform me that they

have taken seven thousand white

fish,

These
to

which, singly,

will

weigh from three

four

pounds, were taken in nine nets, of sixty fathoms

each.

Sunday, 17.

Clear and cold.

The
fell in

last night,

the lake, opposite to the fort, froze

over.

The
is

greater part of the snow, which

October,

now

dissolved.

214

Harmon's journal.

Friday, December 13.

off,

On

the 20th

ult. I

set

accompanied by twenty of

my

people, for the

goods which were stopped by the taking of the

ice in

Peace River, the

last

October.

We

all
c

re-

turned this evening accompanied by Mr.

gall,

M Dou-

come to pass the holidays with us. Our goods were drawn on sledges by dogs. Each pair of dogs drew a load of from two hundred, to two hundred and fifty pounds, besides provisions
has
for

who

themselves

and their driver, which would

make
I

the whole load about three hundred pounds.

have seen many dogs, two of which would draw

five

on a sledge,
five hours.

hundred pounds, twenty

distance,

miles, in

For a short

two of our stout-

est dogs will

draw more than

is

a thousand pounds

weight.
I

In short, there

no animal, with which

able
to

am

acquainted, that would be

render

half the service that our dogs do, in this country,

where the snow

is

very deep

in

the winter season.

They

sink but
shoes.

little into it, in

following a person

on snow

Wednesday, January
first

1,

1812.
c

This being the

day of the year, Mr.

all

M Dougall
hall.

and

dined

with

our people, in the

I

After our re-

past was ended,

invited several of the Sicauny

and Carrier

chiefs,

and most respectable men, to

partake of the provisions which

I

we had

left

and

was surprised

to see

them behave with much de-~

-4

harmon's journal.

215

cency, and even propriety, while eating, and while

drinking a flagon or two of

spirits.

After

they had finished

their

repast,

they

smoked

their pipes, and

conversed
is,

rationally,

on

the great difference which there

between the
and those

manners and customs of

of the savages.

civilized people,

They

readily conceded, that ours

*

are superior to theirs.

Tuesday,

7.

On

the 4th inst accompanied by

I

several af our people,

lage,

set off for

Tachy, a
lake.
to

vil-

toward the other end of

this

We
be

there saw a

number of

Indians,

who appear
that

very indolent,
clad,

and who are, of course, wretchedly

fed.

and not better

From

place,

we

proceeded up a considerable

river,

about half a

days' march, to another village,

inhabited chiefly

by

Sicaunies,

who appear

to

be more industrious
;

than the inhabitants of the former village

therefore, they are better clothed, and live

and,

more

comfortably.

Their principal food and trout

;

consists of sal-

mon, white
kill

fish,

and they, at times,

a beaver, or a cariboo.
is
;

The

country around
this river,

the lake
it is

hilly

but, on

both sides of

level

and from the appearance of the timit,

ber which grows on

soil is

should think that the

not bad.
13.
;

Monday,
at this place

On

the 9th

inst.

a Sicauny died
at-

and the following circumstances

210
tended

Harmon's journal.
his incineration, to day.

The

corpse

was
up-

placed on

a pile

of dry wood, with the face

wards, which was painted and bare.

The body

was covered with a robe, made of beaver skins, and shoes were on the feet. In short, the deceased was clothed
only a
little

in

the same manner as

gaily.

when

alive,

more

His gun and powder

horn, together with every trinket

possessed,

which he had

were placed by
fire to

his side.

As they were
if

about to set

the

wood, on which the dehe

ceased lay, one of

his

brothers asked him

;

would ever come #mong them again

suppose
that

for,

they

the

soul

of a

person, after the

death

of

the

body;

can

revisit

the

earth, in

another body.
the

They

must, therefore, believe in

immortality,

though

they connect

with

it

the transmigration, of the soul.

The deceased had two

placed, the one at

wives,

who were
at

the head, and the other

;

the foot of the corpse

til

and there they lay un-

the hair

of their heads was nearly consum-

ed by the flames, and they were

cated

almost

suffo-

by the

smoke.

When
as

almost
little

senseless,

they rolled on

the ground, to a

distance

from the
a
little

fire.

As soon

they had recovered

up, and

strength, they stood

began

to

strike the burning corpse with both their hands

alternately

and

this disgusting,

savage cere mo-

Harmon's journal*

217
nearly

ny was

continued,

until

the

body was

consumed.

This operation was

interrupted

by

their frequent turns of fainting, arising from the

intensity of the

heat.

If they did not soon re-

cover from these turns, and commence the

eration of striking the corpse,
seize

op-

the

men would

them by the little remaining hair on their heads, and push them into the flames, in order to compel them to do it. This violence was
especially used toward one of the wives of the

deceased,

who had

frequently run
living.

away from

him, while he was

When
es,

the body was nearly burned to ashes,

the wives of the deceased gathered up these ash-

and the remaining pieces of bones, which they

put into bags.

ed

to

These bags they will be compellcarry upon their backs, and to lay by their

sides,

when they

lie

down

at night, for

about two
will

years.

The

relations of the deceased

then

make
in

a feast, and enclose these bones and ashes

a box, and deposit

that purpose, in
time, the

them under
the centre

a shed, erected

for

of the village.
in

Until this

widows are kept

daub

a kind of

slavery, and are required to

their faces over

with some black substance, and to appear clothed

with rags, and frequently to go without any clothing,

excepting round their waists.

But, at the

28

218

harmon's journal.

time of this feast, they are set at liberty from

these disagreeable restraints.

Thursday, 30.

On

the 17th

inst.

accompanied
and two

by Mr.

M Dougall,
c

twelve of

my men

Carriers,

I set

out on a journey to the territory of

the Nate-ote-tains, a tribe of Indians,

who have

ne-

ver had any intercourse with white people, and few

of

whom
all

have ever seen them.

possible

After travelling,

with

expedition, during seven days,

generally on lakes,

we

arrived at their
a
little

first village.

The

inhabitants
to see

were not

surprised and

alarmed

people come among them, whose

complexion was so different from their own.

their village stands on a rise of ground, near

As
to a

large lake, they

when we w ere at and the men, a considerable distance from them women and children came out to meet us, all of
saw
us coming,
r

whom were
offence
;

armed, some with bows and arrows,

r

and others w ith axes and

but,

clubs.

They

offered no

by many savage gestures they manithemselves,

in

fested a determination to defend

case they

were attacked.

We

soon dissipated

their fears, by informing them, that

to
.

make war upon them,

exchange.

but to

we came not supply them with

articles which they needed, and to receive their

furs in

They

treated us with

much

respect and with great hospitality-

harmon's journal.

219

we proceeded on our route, and, during our progress, we saw four more of their villages. At the second of these, we found the two men who, the last summer, visited my
following,
fort.

The day

These people were

not, therefore,
;

surpris-

ed

at seeing us

among them

for, I

had promised
us the
fort,

these two men, that, in the course of the winter,

I

would

visit

their country.

They gave

same account

as they had before given at the

of the white people,

already mentioned.

who come up a large river, And to convince us of the

showed
us guns, cloth,

truth of the account, they

axes, blankets, iron pots, &c.

which they obtained

from their neighbours, the Atenas, who purchase

them

directly of the
five

white people.

The

villages

which we

visited,

contain

about two

thousand inhabitants,

who

are

well

made and

robust.

They
fish.

subsist principally on sal-

mon, and other small

The salmon
at

here have

small scales, while those

none.

Stuart's

Lake, have
is

The
fir,

clothing of these people,

I

that of the Carriers.

much procured from them

like

ves-

sels, curiously wrought, of the smaller roots of the

spruce

in different

shapes.

Some

of

them are

open, like a kettle, and will hold water.

also, let

They

me have

a blanket or rug, which was

manufactured by the Atenas, of the wool of a kind

of sheep or goat

These animals are

said

to be

220

Harmon's journal.
in

numerous, on the mountains,

their country.

They
tribe.

told us that

we had

seen but a small part of

the Nate-ote-tains, who, they say, are a numerous

They speak

a language peculiar to them-

selves,

though the greater part of them undercountry, which

stand that, spoken by the Carriers.

The
route,
is

we

travelled over, in this

generally level.

Few

mountains are to

be seen.
the
soil is

heavy growth of timber evinces, that We saw no large animals, exgood.

cepting the cariboo

but

we were
in

informed, that

black bears, and other kinds of the larger animals,

exist in considerable

numbers,
I

that region.

Sunday, February 23.

have just returned

from a jaunt of eight days,

Stilla.

to Frazer's

Lake and

The

latter place

lies

about twenty miles

beyond the former.

tives, as usual,

Wherever we went, the Nato be pleased to

appeared

see

us,

and treated us hospitably,

Monday, April
ter,

6,

Six Indians have

to

arrived
a letis

from Frazer's Lake, who delivered

written by Mr. David

me

Thompson, which
It

dated August 28th, 1811, at Ilk-koy-ope

on the Columbia
this

Falls,

River.

informs

me,

that

gentleman, accompanied by seven Canadians,

descended the

Columbia River,

to

the

place

where

it

enters the Pacific Ocean,

where they

arrived on the 16th of July.

There they found

harmon's journal.
a

221

number of people, employed in building a fort a company of Americans, who denominate He also themselves the Pacific Fur Company.
for

writes, that

Mr. Alexander
to

M Kay
c

and others,
the vessel

have proceeded
that brought

the northward,

in

them there, on a coasting trade. Mr. Thompson, after having remained seven days
with the American people, set out on
to his establishments,
his return

which are near the source

of the Columbia River.

From

one of these posts,

he wrote the ed
it

letter

above mentioned, and deliverwith

to an Indian, to bring to the next tribe,

it

the direction, that they should forward

next,

to the

and so on,

until

it

should

reach

this

place.

This circumstance accounts for the great length of

time, that
it it

has been on the

way;

for

e dis-

tance that
in

has come, might be

travelled over,

twenty

five or thirty days.

Monday,
from
off

May

11.

This morning
I

returned
to

Leod's Lake, where

have been

send

my

people,

who

are to go to the

Rainy Lake.
Lambert,
through

While
the ice

there, one of

my men,
his

Pieere

while crossing a small lake on a sledge,

;

fell

and, before

companions who were

near could extricate him, he was drowned.

The

day following,
and interred.

his corpse

was brought

to

the fort

On my way home,

the walking was exceeding-

222
ly bad.

Harmon's journal.

The snow was

three feet deep, and the

it

weathep was so
soft.

mild, that

had become very

place,
I left

About ten miles from

before

this

my

guide, and

came on forward of him.

far,
I

had not
back

proceeded
course.
1
I

wandered from my proper

might have followed

my

tracks
I

but this

was

unwilling to do, and

continued,

therefore to wander about during the remainder

of the day.

The

night
;

came upon me, while

I

was
I

in

a thick

wood

and, as

had nothing

to eat,

could only kindle up a

fire,

and endeavour to

solace myself, by smoking

my
in

pipe.

passed the

greater part of the night

melancholy reflections
into

on the

unpleasant

condition,

which

had

brought myself, by leaving

ly in the morning,
travelling, without
I left

my guide. Very earmy fire, and commenced

to take.

knowing what direction

The
k

sun was concealed by clouds, and the rain

fell copiously.

Before

had gone

far, I

perceiv-

ed, at no great distance

hill,

from me, a pretty high

which

I at

length ascended, with

much

diffi-

culty.

From

its

summit.

was cheered by a pros-

pect of this lake, at a considerable distance from

me.
take,

Having ascertained the course which

I

must
fol-

descended

into the valley,

in
;

and took the

lowing method to keep

I at first

the direction to the

fort,

marked

a tree

and from
1

that, singled

out one

forward of me, to which

proceeded

iji.

mm

Harmon's journal.

223
in

and by means of these two fixed upon another,

a straight line

ahead

and continued the same

operation, for several hours, until, with great joy,

I

reached the

fort.

And now,

therefore,

desire

to return

thanks to kind Providence, for having

once more directed

family.

my

steps to

my home

and

my

Thursday, 21.

The

last night,

an east wind

drove the

ice to the

other end of this lake.

Tuesday, 23.

This morning, the Natives caught

a sturgeon that would weigh about two hundred

and. fifty pounds.

We
much

frequently see
larger,

in this lake,

those which are

take, for

which we cannot

the want of nets, sufficiently strong to

hold them.
Saturday, August 15.

up

this river.

tives

Salmon begin to come As soon as one is caught, the Naalways make a feast, to express their joy at
fish.

the arrival of these

The

person,

who

first

sees a salmon in the

)ay
!

river, exclaims,
in English,

Ta-loe nasar-

Ta-loe nas-lay

Salmon have

rived! Salmon have arrived! and the exclamation

is

caught with joy, and uttered with animation, by

in

every person

the village.
2.

Wednesday, September

Mr.

M Dougall
c

and
out

company, who came here on the 25th

this

ult. set
c

morning, on their return home, to

M Leod's
satisfac-

Lake.

This

visit

has afforded

m much

224
tion.

Harmon's journal.
In this lonely part of the world,

we

enjoy
are

the pleasures of social intercourse,

when we

permitted to spend a
with the highest
relish.

little

time with a friend,

Sunday, October 25.

Early

this

morning,

my

people returned from the Rainy Lake.

I

By them

have received letters from home, which have

given

me more

satisfaction
in

than

can express.

My

friends are

good health, and

my

beloved

son George has arrived safely

these blessings,
unless
I

among them.

For

cannot be sufficiently thankful,

merciful

God
6.

is

graciously

pleased to

change

my

heart of stone into a heart of flesh.

Friday, November

We

have now about

six
ult.

inches of snow on the ground.

I set

On

the 27th
I

out for
I

M Leod's Lake, where

c

arrived on

the 29th.

there

found Mr. John Stuart, who,

with his company, arrived the day before, from

Fort Chipewyan.

His men are on their way to

the Columbia River,

down which they

G.

will

pro-

ceed under Mr.

J.

c Tavish.

The coming

winter, they will pass near the source of that river.

will

At the Pacific Ocean, it is expected that they c Tavish, Esq. and company, meet Donald

who were
bia River.
self,

to sail

from England,

last

October, and

proceed round Cape Horn to the mouth of Colum-

This afternoon Mr. Stuart and myarrived

at
this

with our company,

place,

Harmon's journal.
(Stuart's

225

Lake) where both of

us,

God
us,

willing,

shall pass the ensuing winter.

With

are twenfive

ty

one labouring men, one interpreter, and

wo-

men, besides children.

Saturday, January 23, 1813.

On

the 29th

ult.

Mr. Stuart and myself, with the most of our people,

went

to purchase furs

and salmon,

at Frazer's

Lake and Stillas. The last fall, but few salmon came up this river. At the two places, above
mentioned,

we were

so successful as to be able to

procure a

sufficient quantity.

While

at

Frazer's
myself,

Lake, Mr. Stuart, our interpreter and

came near being massacreed by the

that place, on account of the

Indians of

interpreter's wife,

who

is

a native of that village.

Eighty or ninety

of the Indians armed themselves, some with guns,

some with bows and arrows, and others with axes

and
clubs, for the

purpose of attacking
I

us.

By
In-

mild measures, however, which

have generally

found to be the best,

dians,

in

the

management of the

that

we succeeded in appeasing their- anger, so we suffered no injury and we finally sepa;

rated, to appearance, as

good

friends, as if nothing

unpleasant

had occurred.

Those who are

ac-

quainted with the disposition of the Indians, and

who

are a

little

respected by them, may, by hufeelings, generally, controul

mouring their

them,

almost as they pleases

29

226

Harmon's journal.

Sunday, February 21.

age Fort.

Rocky Mountain Port-

Here
five

arrived this afternoon, accom-

panied by

Canadians and one Carrier.

We

Lake on the 6th inst. and are on our way to Dunvegan, where I am going to transact some business with Mr. John M c Gillivray, who is As the mountains, on both sides of the there.
left Stuart's

river, for the distance of seventy or

eighty miles,

are very lofty, there

passing, either

is

generally a strong wind

at

up or down the stream, which,

it

this season, renders

extremely cold and disagreethe

;

able travelling.

On

18th,

heart of those mountains

we were in the and we had to encoun-

ter such a strong head wind, that

became very much

perceived
it

frozen, without
It is

my upper lip my having

swolen,
in

at the time.

now much

and very painful.

consequence of a

We
fall

all

caught severe colds,

of snow upon us, to the depth

of eight inches, after

we had encamped and

;

re-

signed ourselves to sleep, the second night after

leaving Stuart's

Lake

and

have become unable

It

to speak, excepting in a whisper.

requires

in-

deed, a strong constitution, to conflict with the

hardships, incident to our

mode

of

life.

We
dians.

here find no person, excepting two Cana-

Mr. A. R.
is

M Leod,
c

who
visit

has

charge of

this place,
tent,

now

absent on a

to his hunter's
this.

which

is

five days'

march from

From

Harmon's journal.
such a distance, provisions are obtained for
post, as there are

227
this

very few large animals at

I

this

season, in this vicinity, in consequence,

presume,
falls in

of the great depth of snow, which always

places, so near the mountain,
as
this.

The

peo-

ple

who

are here say, that the hunters had such

in

difficulty
fall,

finding animals
all

of any kind,
days,

the last

that they

passed

five

without any

kind of food.

Monday, March
length,

1.

Dunvegan.
place,

I
I

have,

at

reached

this

where

passed the
it,

years 1809 and 1810, and revisiting

pleasing scene
is

recalled

many a by memory, and many

I

hours of agreeable conversation, which

passed,

with

the gentlemen

who were then

here, rise
is
;

fresh to

my

recollection.

Mr. M
c

Gillivray

now
and

absent, on a visit to the Lesser Slave

Lake
fort.

Mr. Collin Campbell has charge of the

Sunday, 14.

Mr.
is

M Gillivray returned, on the

man
;

10th

inst.

He

an amiable and excellent

his

and

have enjoyed

society, during

my

short

stay here, very highly.

Having completed
out tomorrow, on

my
re-

business here,

I shall set
I

my

turn to Stuart's Lake.

ligence, that

here received the

intel-

Niagara and Makana had surrender;

ed to the British forces

uable lives

but not before

sides.

many

val-

were

lost,

on both
Stuart's

Sanday, April

4.

Lake.

We

left

228

Harmon's journal.
ult.

Dunvegan on the 16th

by the way.
Saturday,

and arrived here

this

evening, without having experienced any disaster

May

1.

Present appearances
in

justi-

fy the expectation, that the ice

the

river will

soon break up, so that our people will be able to

commence

their journey to the

all

Rainy Lake with

sent to

our returns,

of which

we have

Leod's

Lake, together with

try,

letters to people in this counin

and to our friends

the civilized part of the

world.

Thursday, 13.

The weather
J.

is

fine.

In the

early part of the day, Mr.

Stuart,

accompanied

by

six

Canadians and two of the Natives, embark-

ed on board of two canoes, taking with him a

small assortment of goods, as a kind of pocket

money, and provisions

an half.

sufficient

for

month and
G.

They
;

are going to join Mr.

at

J.

Ta-

vish and his

company,
and
to

some place on the Coas to

lumbia River
ocean.

proceed with them to the

Should Mr. Stuart be so successful

discover a water communication, between this and

the Columbia,

we

shall, for

the future, obtain our

yearly supply of goods by that route, and send our

returns out that way, to

be shipped directly for

in that case,

China,

in vessels

which the company,

design to build on the North

West

coast.

While
is

the execution of this comprehensive

plan

com-

Harmon's journal.
mitted to others,
in

229

which,

my more humble employment, however, I am quite as sure of being

is

successful,
fairs

to be, the superintendence of the af-

of

New

Caledonia.

who pursue business to obtain a livelihood, have so much leisure, as we do. Few of us are employed more, and many of us much less, than one fifth of our time, in transThe reacting the business of the Company. If we maining four fifths *are at our own disposal.
other people, perhaps,

No

do

not,

with such an opportunity, improve our un-

derstandings, the fault must be our

own

for there

are few posts, which are not tolerably well suppli-

ed with books.
of the best kind
are valuable.
;

These books are

but
I

not, indeed, all

among them

are

many which
silent

If

were deprived of these

a

companions,

many

gloomy hour would pass over

spirit

me.

Even with them, my

I

at

times sinks,

when
and

reflect

on the great length of time which

I left

has elapsed, since

the land of

my

nativity,

my

relatives and friends, to dwell in this sav-

age country.

These gloomy moments, thank God,

occur but seldom, and soon glide away.

reflection reconciles

little

me

to
in

the

lot,

which Provi-

dence has assigned me,

Saturday, June 12.

the world,
arrived,
c

A Sicauny has just

this side

who

states,

that

little

of

Leod's
an
%

Lake, where he was encamped with

his family,

230

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

Indian of the same tribe, rushed out of the wood,

and

fired

upon them, and

killed his wife.

;

Her
and

corpse he immediately burned upon the spot

then, with his son and

two daughters, he proceed-

ed directly

to this

place.

All

the savages,

who
kill-

have had a near relation

until

killed, are

never quiet

they have revenged the death, either by

ing the murderer, or

to him.

some person nearly related

This

spirit

of revenge has occasioned the

death of the old woman, above mentioned, and she

undoubtedly, deserved to die
;

for,

the

last

sumkill

mer, she persuaded her husband to go and

the cousin of her murderer, and that, merely be-

cause her

own

son had been drowned.

The

cus-

tom, which extensively prevails

among the

Indians,

of revenging the natural death of a relative, by

the commission of murder, seems to arise from a

superstitious

notion

entertained by
takes place
in

them,
this

that

death, even
has, in

when

it

manner,

some mysterious way, been occasioned by

Yesterday, an Indian of
this vil-

a fellow creature.

Sunday, 20.

lage killed another,

who was on

visit

from the

other end of this lake, just as he was entering his

canoe to return.
latter,

The former approached

five stabs
in

the

and gave him

with a lance, and

ripped open his bowels,

ner,

such a shocking manfell

that

his

entrails

immediately

upon

Harmon's journal.
the

231
instantly
;

ground

and he, of

course,
his

ex-

pired.

The murderer made

village,
it

escape

and the
in

chief of the

wrapped the corpse

to his relations.

moose

skin,

and sent

Notwithof this

standing this conciliatory act, the people

place are apprehensive, that the relations of the

person murdered, will make war upon them

and

they

will,

therefore, set

out tomorrow, to go a
this river,

considerable distance

down

where they
har-

will pass a greater part of the summer, until

mony
less

is

restored between the two villages.

wife,

This

murderer has a

who

is

known

to

be a worth-

woman, with whom he supposed that the perhad had improper intercourse ; and murdered son
it

was

to

revenge

this,

that the act

was committed.
their

All the Carriers are extremely jealous of

wives
;

while, to their unmarried daughters, they

!

cheerfully allow every liberty

Thursday, August 12.

Salmon begin
which
is

to

make

their appearance in this river,

a joyful

event to us

for the stock of provisions

is

which we

have

in

the

fort,

sufficient,

but for

a few days,

and the Natives, for some time past, have suffered

greatly for the want

of food.

We

ought to be

thankful to our merciful Preserver and Benefactor,

who

continually watches over us, and supplies

our wants.

Often has he appeared for our

relief.

232

Harmon's journal.
in

when we were
he
is

urgent need, and taught

us, that

the proper object of our confidence.

1.

Wednesday, September

few days
c

since,

Mr.

M Dougall arrived
c

here from

M Leod's Lake,
this
fort,

and took

all

he people, belonging to

with him to Pinchy, to gather berries.

Having
and
for

been
ble

left

entirely alone,

have had a favourareflection,

opportunity for

serious
I

self examination;

and

have been disposed to em-

ploy

it

for this purpose.

of

my heart, my past life,

and the
I

On reviewing the exercises course of my conduct, during

filled

have been

with astonishment

and with

grief, in

view of

my
I

wide

departures
in

from the path of duty.

My

sins

have risen

gloomy array before me, and

to feel, that
I

have

been led
;

am, indeed, the chief of sinners

and

that,

on account of

my

transgressions,

de-

serve to be banished forever from the gracious

presence of God, and

to

be

consigned

to the
guilt

world of future misery.

This view of

my

would have been overwhelming,

been graciously pleased,
the Saviour to me,
in

had not God

trust,

as
his

to reveal
fullness, as

glorious

an

all

sufficient
sinful

and an

accepted
the

Mediator

be-

tween

men and
has

offended
to

majesty of
amiable
in

heaven.
himself,

He
and

appeared

me

entirely suited

to

my

necessities;

harmon's journal.
and
I

233

humbly hope that

have committed

my
his

soul to him, to

be washed from the defilement of

be accepted of
to

sin in his blood, to

God through
his
is

intercession,

and
in
it

be sanctified by
feelings,

Spirit.

The
great

change
;

my
is

views and
surprising

certainly

and

to

myself.

once considered as the foibles and

youth,

What I follies of my
against a

now appear
life, I

to be

grievous

sins,

righteous and a long suffering

God

and a religious

course of

regard as the path, not only of

;

wisdom, but of happiness

vine grace,
it
is

and by the aid of Difor

my

resolution,

the time to

come,

to labour after a

compliance with every Di-

vine requirement.

Until this day,

have always doubted whether

such a Saviour as the scriptures describe, ever really existed,

I,

and appeared on earth

So blind was

that

could see no necessity for an atoning

Methe

diator

between God and men.

Before

I left

civilized part of the world, I

had frequently heard

fol-

the cavils of infidelity urged; and these cavils

lowed me
fresh to

into

the

wilderness, frequently

came
infi-

my

recollection,

and contributed to over-

shadow my mind with the gloomy doubts of

delity.

My

intention,
;

however, was, by no means

but, I

to cast off all religion

attempted to frame

to myself a religion,

which would comport with

my

feelings,

and with 30

my manner

of

life.

For

234

Harmon's jour&ae.

several years past, however,

at
rest.
I

my mind
early
life,

has not been

was taught
and

in

by parents
and dubelieve

whom
ties

respected and loved, the

;

truths
to

of Christianity

had a wish

in

the same religion which they possessed, and

I

from which,

have frequently heard them say,

I,

they derived the most substantial consolation.

therefore,

some time

since,

commenced
1

reading the
;

Bible, with
for,

more

attention than
I

had before done

from
it.

my
I

youth up,

had been accustomed to

books that
I

read
find,

also read all other

could

which treated of the

christian religion.

Some
as did,

excellent notes, respecting the Saviour, in the Universal History, affected

also,

my mind much
I

the serious letters which

received, every
I

year, from

my

brother Stephen.

also

prayed a
his

gracious
the

God

to enable

me

to believe on
I

Son,

Lord Jesus

Christ.
faith,

As

was praying
I

to-day,,

on a sudden, the
solicitous, was,
I

respecting which

was so
to

trust,

graciously granted

me.
total

My

views
I

of

the

Saviour,

underwent a

change.

was enabled, not only to believe in his

existence, but to

apprehend

his superlative excelin truth,

lency

and now he appears to be,

what

the scriptures describe him to be, the

chiefest

among

ten thousand,

and one altogether lovely.

enable

May

the grace of

God

me

to follow his

Harmon's journal.

235
I

heavenly example through

with him
in glory,

life,
!

that

may

dwell

forever

As I seem to myself to have hitherto led a more wicked life than the rest of my fellow creatures, I deem it proper, for the time to come, to
devote the
fasting,
first

day of every month

it

to religious
in

employing

in

reading the scriptures,

in

devout meditation, and

in

prayer, that
life,

mind the great business of

a

may keep which I now

I

consider to be,

preparation for eternity.

My

prayer shall ever be, that a gracious

God would

be pleased to blot out

my

numberless and aggra-

vated transgressions, for the sake of the atone-

ment which Jesus has made keep me, by

vinced
[

and that he would

I

his grace,

without which,

am
in

con-

can do nothing acceptable to him,

until
it

the

path of holiness,
ly glory.

shall terminate in

heaven-

Tuesday,

7.
I

have

this

day composed two

not only a du-

prayers, which

design to use regularly and deIt

is

voutly, morning and evening.

ty,

but a privilege,

thus to approach the

mercy

seat

of the great Sovereign of the Universe, in

the

name

of a

prevalent Intercessor, and to supblessings

plicate the

numerous

which we need, as

well as to give

thanks for those which we are

continually receiving.

236

harmon's journal.

Saturday, 25.

An

Indian has arrived, from a

this river,

considerable distance
livered to

down

who
J.

has deStuart.

me

three letters
is

from Mr.

The

last
is

of

them

dated at O-ke-na-gun Lake,

which

situated at a short distance from the Co-

lumbia River.

Mr. Stuart

writes,

that

he met

with every kindness and assistance from the Natives,

on his way to that place

that,

after de-

scending this river, during eight days, he

was un-

der the necessity of leaving

ing his property on
horses,
to

his canoes,

and of tak-

more than one hunthe

dred and
Lake.
can go

fifty

miles,

above
states,

mentioned
that

From
all

that place,

he

they

the

way by water,
;

to the

Ocean, by

making a few portages

farthest.

and he hopes to reach

at

the Pacific Ocean, in twelve or fifteen days,

They
are,

will

be

delayed,

for

time,

where they
of canoes.

by the

necessary construction

Friday, October

I.

The

first

of

my

appoint;

ed days of religious

fasting,

has arrived
it,

and

have

endeavoured

to

observe

agreeably to

my

resolution.

Sunday, November

7.

This afternoon, Mr. Jo-

seph La Roque and company arrived from the

Columbia River.

This gentleman went, the

J.

last

summer, with Mr.

ty, to

G.

M Tavish
c

and

his par-

the Pacific Ocean.

On

their return, they

Harmon's journal.

237 Mr.

met

Mr.

Stuart

and

his

company.

La

Roque,
men, set
Slave
place,

accompanied

by two of Mr.

Stuart's

off thence, to

the circuitous

come to this place, by way of Red Deer River, Lesser

Dunvegan,

Lake, and
they were

from

which

last

accompanied
this
I

by
to

my
the

people,

who have been, Lake. By them

letters

summer,

Rainy
of

have received a number

in this country,

from people

and from

my

friends in the United States.

Tuesday\ December
out for
several

14.
;

On
and

the 1st
I

inst. I set

M Leod's
c

Lake

there received

letters

from
truly

my

brothers below, which

intelligence,

announce

the

afflicting
is

that

my

beloved son George

!

no longer to be num-

bered among the living

He
last,

was
and

in

good health
corpse on

on the second of March

the eighteenth of the same

time,
I

month.

For
its
is

some
truth.

could
I

scarcely credit this intelligence

to

though

had no reason

doubt

This dispensation of divine providence

expected, and so
scarcely bear
tian
afflictive,
it,

so unI

that at

first,

could

up under

with a becoming chrisaffection

I

resignation.

My

tenderest
;

was

placed upon this darling boy

ed, that

and

fondly hopdeclining

he would be the solace of

my

years.

But how delusive was

frail

this

expectation

How

and perishing are

all

earthly objects

238
and enjoyments.
ination, I

Harmon's journal.

few days

since,

in

my

imag-

was often wandering with

delight, to the

remote land of
tered
I

my

kindred, and parental love cen-

in this

promising son, for

whom,
I

principally,

wished

to live,

and for

whom
this

would have been

occupied
a

willing to die.

Perhaps

child

place
ly

in

my

heart,

which

my God
I

and Saviour onthis afflic-

may of right occupy. tion may be the means

tions

hope that

of disengaging

my
my

affec-

from an inordinate attachment to earthly ob;

jects

and that

it

may

induce

me

to fix
will

confi-

dence and hope on things, which

point

never disapof
all

my

expectation.
;

The Judge
and
is

the

earth has done right

still

it

becomes me
I,

to

be

and know, that he

;

God.
is,

too,

must soon

die

and

this dispensation

perhaps, a seasona-

ble warning to

me, to be prepared to meet

I

my
sub-

own may

dissolution.

desire

that the

Holy

Spirit
it

sanctify this affliction to me, and

make
I

servient to this important end.

On my

return from

M Leod's
c

Lake,

was

ac-

companied by Mr.
departed son, the
mutual
affection.

c Dougall

and family,

who

came to mourn with me, and the mother of

loss of this

my
this

dear object of our

on receiving
than

Her

distress,

intelligence,
I

was greater,

if possible,

my

own.

endeavoured, by some introductory remarks, on

the uncertainty of earthly things, to prepare her

Harmon's journal.

239

mind

for the

disclosure,

which

was about

to re-

make.

Her
;

fears

were alarmed, by these

marks

and, probably, she discovered in

tenance, something to confirm them.

my counWhen I in-

formed

her that our beloved son George was

dead, she looked at me, with a wild stare of agony, and immediately

threw herself upon the bed,

in

where she continued,

the succeeding night.

a state of delirium, during

Saturday, January 22, 1814.

On

the 4th
place,

inst.

Mr.
turn

M Dougali and family, left this

c

to re-

home.

They were accompanied by two

to

men, who have gone

Peace River, with

11 o que

letters.

The same day, Mr. La

Frazer's Lake.

and myself,
people, went

acto

companied by fourteen of

my
I

On

the 9th

sent him, accom-

panied with two Canadians and two Indians, with

letters

to the

people,

who

are on the Columbia

I

River.

After having purchased what furs

sufficient quantity of
I

could,

and a

salmon,

set out on

my

return home, where

arrived this evening.

Friday, February
ald

4.

This evening, Mr. Don-

M Leunen
c

and company, arrived here from

packet of
letin-

the Columbia Department, with a

ters.

One

of these

is

from Mr- John Stuart,

forming

me

that the last autumn, the

North West

Company purchased
all

of the Pacific Fur Company,

the furs which they had bought of the Natives,

240
and
all

Harmon's journal.
the goods which they had on hand.

The

people

who were engaged

to
in

in

the service of that

company, are
to

have a passage, the next summer,

the canoes of the North

Montreal,

West

Company,
service.

unless

they choose to enter into our

Sunday

',

Jlpril 17.
I

As the

ice

appears to be

out of this river,

have sent Mr. Leunen, accomin a small canoe,

panied by two Canadians,

letters

with
I

to

the gentlemen on Columbia River.

am, therefor e, deprived of an agreeable companion,

who,

expected

until lately,

would pass the

summer with me.

Happy are
my

those,

who have

an amiable and intelligent friend, with

can, at pleasure, converse.

whom
c

they

Friday, 22.

Sent off

people to

M Leod

Lake,
to

in

order
for

that they

may be
as
I

in

readiness

embark

the

Rainy Lake,

soon as the

navigation opens.

By them

have, as usual, forIf

this

warded my

letters,
I

and accounts of the place.

another summer at

God

permit,

shall pass

place, having with

me

ten persons.

As we can

this

is

the

only season of the year

when

leave this country,

now

it is,

that

we have

the most ardent desire of visiting the land of our

nativity.

At other

seasons, the impossibility of a

departure, suppresses the rising wish to go, stern

necessity binds us to our situation, and

we

rest

in

Harmon's journal.
quietude until the return of another spring.
all

241

Then

the finer feelings of affection take possession of

;

our souls

and their strength seems to be increas-

ed, by the previous restraint, which had been laid

upon them.
Saturday,

May

7.

The weather
and the
frost
is

is

fine,

and
This

vegetation
lake
is

is

far advanced, for the season.

;

clear of ice

chiefly out of

the ground.

Swans, bustards, and ducks, are nu;

merous
passed

in

the rivers and lakes

and,

during the

last ten days,

this,

an incredible number of cranes have

5

on their way to the north

Indians have

but none

of them stopped here.

Three

come

to this place

from

Frazer's Lake, to obtain the piece of a garment,

belonging to an Indian of that place, which they

say,

was cut

off

by an Indian of

this village.

They
who
life

are so superstitious as firmly to believe, that, by

virtue

of this piece of garment, the Indian,

in his

has
of

it

possession,

is

able to destroy the

its

owner, at pleasure.
5.

Friday, August
this

Salmon begin

to,

come up

river.

They

are generally to be taken, in

considerable numbers, until the latter part of Sep*

tember.
multitudes
that

During about a month, they come up

;

in

and we can take any number of them

31

we

please.

242

harmon's journal.
Tuesday, September 20.

We have had
numerous
;

but few

salmon here,

this year.

It is

only in every second

season, that they are very

the reason

of which,
I

am

unable to assign.
letters, to
is

have sent an Indian, with

Dunvethis

gan, on Peace River, which

place, at least, five

distant

from

hundred

miles.

Friday, 30.
hi this river,

We

have had but a few salmon

during the past season.

We

hope,

however, that a kind Providence has sent them to

some of our neighbouring villages, where we shall be able to purchase what will be necessary, in addition to the white fish,
for

which we expect

to take,

our consumption, during the ensuing winter.

let

But
ing,

my

condition

be ever so deplorable,

am

resolved to place all

my dependence

on that Be-

who depends

on no one.

Tuesday, October 18.

This afternoon,

I J.

was

agreeably surprised by the arrival of Mr.

La

Roque and company,

in

two canoes, laden with

goods, from Fort George, at the

mouth of the Coleft,

lumbia River, which place they

part of last August.

the latter

the months of

Our vessels arrived there, in March and April and, soon after,
;

one of them set

sail

again, loaded

with

furs,

for

Canton

Mr. La Roque brings the melancholy intelligence, that Messrs. D. M Tavish,

in China.c

Alexander Henry, and

five sailors

were drowned.

Harmon's journal.
on the 22d of

243
in

May
at

last,

in

going out

a boat,

from

fort

George, to the vessel called the Isaac

anchor without the bar,
befel them.
in

Tod, which lay

go-

ing over which, this disaster

With

the former gentleman,

passed two winters at

Dun vegan, on Peace River.

esteem, and
friends
;

He

stood high in

my

considered him as one of

I shall

my

best

and

ever lament the sad catas-

trophe, which has thus suddenly

removed him from

I

my

society,
I

and from

all

earthly scenes.

hope

that

may

not be regardless of the admonition^

addressed to

me by
24.

this

providence, to

be also

ready for

my

departure, to the world of

spirits.

Monday,
people

Sent Mr.

La Roque, and

the

who came up with

him, to reestablish the

post at Frazer's Lake.

Saturday, 29.

My

people have returned from

the Rainy Lake, and delivered

me

letters

from

my

relatives below.

They

afford

me renewed

proof of the uncertainty of earthly objects and enjoyments,

in

the intelligence, that a brother's wife

has been cut

days, leaving

down by
a
to

death, in the midst of her

disconsolate

husband, and

two

young children,
ture.
I

mourn over her early deparrelatives, are

ought, however, to be thankful, that the

rest of

my numerous
I

blessed with

health, and a reasonable

forts.

portion of earthly com-

have also received a letter from Mr.

244

Harmon's journal.
at

John Stuart, who has arrived

desiring

Leod's Lake 9
affairs

me

to

go and superintend the

at

Frazer's Lake, and to send Mr.

several of the people
that they

La Roque,

with

who

are there, to this place,

may
this

return to the Columbia department,

will

where
than
shall

it is

presumed they
quarter.

be

more wanted,
therefore,
I

in

Tomorrow,
3.

depart for Frazer's Lake.

Frazer's hake.

Thursday, November
-

Here

we arrived this afternoon, and found Mr. La Roque and his people, busily employed, in bartering with the Natives, for furs and salmon, and in

constructing houses.

With
;

this
I

gentleman,

have

spent a pleasant evening

that,

and

am happy
of
this.

to find

from having been thoughtless and

to be the reverse

dissolute,
It
is

he now appears

manifest, that he has recently reflected much,

on

the vanity of this world, and on the importance of

the concerns of eternity; and he

now appears

deter-

mined, by the aids of God's Holy Spirit, on a tho-

rough reformation.
vere
in this

May

he be enabled to perse-

important undertaking.
Messrs.
Stuart

Tuesday, December 20.

and

M Dougall, with a number of

c

men, have arrived

from Stuart's Lake, for the purpose of proceeding

with

me

to Stilla,

in

order to purchase salmon.

The

Indians of this village have not a sufficiency

for themselves

and

for us,

owing to the scarcity of

Harmon's journal.

245

salmon at several neighbouring

villages,

whose

in-

habitants flock to this place, in hopes of obtaining

a subsistence, during the winter.

Saturday, January
I

7,

1815.
friends

On
to

the 29th
Stuart's
in

ult.

accompanied

my two

Lake,
the
in-

where we passed the holidays together,

tercourse of an intimate and endearing friendship.

Each

related
in
;

and even
sent hour

how he had passed his youthful days, what manner he had lived to the preall

and we

readily acknowledged, that

our lives had been very different from what

we

then wished they had been.

that

hope and believe,

we
T

all

parted, fully determined on a thorough

reformation of conduct.

May

none of us

fail

to

carry this resolution into effect.

Friday, February
last
far,

3.

During the whole of the

month,
that
I

it

has been the coldest weather, by

e,

have

ver experienced,

in

New
six

Cale-

donia.

On

the 11th

ult.

accompanied by
I set

of

my

people and two of the Natives,

out

to visit
lie

the lands of the Nas-koo-tains, which

Frazer's River.

along

This river Mr. Stuart followed

some

distance,

when he

left

this

place

to pro-

ceed to the Columbia River.

tioned Indians never

The above men-

had any intercourse with the

I

white

people, until

went among them.

on the 19th
;

We
but as

reached their

first village,

246

harmon's journal.

they were nearly destitute of provisions, and

we

had expended those which we took with us from

this place,

we

passed only one night

with them.

The

next morning,

we

continued our route

down
vil-

the river, every day passing one or two small

lages, until the 22d,

when we met people from

letters, &c.
is

the

Columbia River, with

Frazer's River

about

fifty

rods

wide, and

has a pretty strong current.

the bank
is

On

the north side,

other,
it

is

generally high
is

but, on the

low, and the country

level.
fell

In going from

this, to

the place where

;

we

upon the

river,

we we

occupied nine days

passed over,
is

and the country

which

very uneven.

We, however,
At these wafish,

crossed several ponds and small lakes, which were

from one to
ters,

fifteen miles in length.

the Natives pass the greater part of the

subsist

summer, and
and carp
;

on excellent white

trout

but, towards the latter part of August,

in

they return to the banks of the river,

order to

take and dry salmon, for their subsistence during

the succeeding winter.

Sunday, 12.
scarce

As salmon are becoming rather

Indians of this village, they are

among the
visit

preparing to
to obtain

the neighbouring lakes,

fish

in

order

a subsistence, from the

that they

hope

to

be able to take out of them.

Harmon's journal.

247
serene and cold
;

Monday,
and thus
ter that

27.

The weather
has been
in

is

far, this
I

much

the coldest winthis

have experienced

part of the

country.

The winters
left

are, generally milder here,

than

in

most parts of the North West.

Mr. Stu-

art has just

me, on

his

return home.

The

few days which he has spent here, were passed

much to our mutual we shall reap some

ligion

satisfaction

an d
this

hope that
visit.

benefit

from

Reconinterin-

was the

principal

topic,

on which
it

we

versed, because, to both of us,

esting than any other.
terest us so

was more

Indeed, what ought to

much,
I,

as

that which concerns our

eternal welfare ?
isfaction of those,
ple,

at times, almost
live

envy the

sat-

who

among

christian peo-

with

whom
much

they can converse, at pleasure,

religion, as
it

on the great things of

source of

must be a

satisfaction,

and of great advanan

tage, to a pious mind.

Thursday, April

6.

About ten days

since,

Indian of this place lost his wife, after a lingering

illness

of several months

and, shortly after, the

disconsolate husband

hung himself from the limb

to the fatal

of a tree.
act,

For several days previous

he appeared to be much cast down, which

being observed by his companions, they endeav-

oured to cheer his

that

spirit,

by the consideration,

what had befallen him, had been suffered by

248

Harmon's journal.

multitudes of others, and was the

common
his

lot.

He

replied that he
;

should conduct as

own

feelings dictated

and that he had not forgotten

the request of his dying companion, which was,

that

he would accompany her.

;

he was missing he was found

and,

Not long after, search being made for him,

above mentioned.
is

in

the situation

The

strength of conjugal attachment

not an un-

frequent cause of suicide, in every part of the Indian country.

Monday,

24.

The snow
I

is

fast leaving us,

and

fowls begin to

come from the

south.
letters

Wednesday, 26.

have sent

to

my

friends below, to Stuart's

will leave,
I

Lake, which place they

first

on their way, the

of next month.

expect to pass the ensuing summer here, having

But, by dividing

but a few people with me.

my
I

time between reading, meditation and exercise,

hope that

it

will pass

not unpleasantly, away.

10.

Wednesday,

May

We

have surrounded a

piece of ground with palisades, for a garden, in

which we have planted a few potatoes, and sowed onion, carrot, beet and parsnip seeds, and a
little

barley.

have, also, planted a very

little
it

Indian corn, without the expectation that

will

Gome

to

maturity.

The

nights

in

this

region

are too cool, and the summers are too short, to

admit of

its

ripening.

There

is

not a month

in

karmon's journal.
the whole year, in which water

249
not con-

does

geal

though
is

the air

in the day time, in the

summer,

warm, and we even have a few days

of sultry weather.

The
30.
I

soil,

in

many

places in

New
a
at
visit

Caledonia,

is

tolerably good.

Tuesday,
to

May

have just returned from

the

Mr. Stuart, who passes

Lake.

summer
which
I

Stuart's

On
I

the mountain,

crossed in going there,

at least, in depth.

found snow, two

feet,

Friday, June 16.

Soon after the Natives

of
taking

left

their village, last February, to

lakes, for

go to the small
fish,

the

purpose

four of

their

number deceased.
by their
are bringing

Their
the
to

corpses

were
time,

kept,

relations, to

present

when they
tons,

them

the village in

order to burn them.

Little else but the skele*

now

remain.

In the winter
their

season, the Car-

riers often
five or? six

keep

dead

in their

huts during

months, before they will allow them

to be burned.

At

this season, the

coldness of

the

weather enables them to keep the bodies,

;

without their becoming offensive

and they are

unwilling that the lifeless remains of the objects

of their

affection,

should
it

be

removed forever

from their
necessity.

sight, until

becomes a matter of

Sunday, 18.

This afternoon eight of the Nate-

32

250
ote-tains
this
in

Harmon's journal.

came
by

to

pay a

visit

to the Indians of
first,

village,

whom

they were, at

treated
arrival,

friendly manner.
is

Soon after their

they began to play, as

the custom of the Indians,

different villages
until

whenever the people of

gan
to

meet.

Things proceeded smoothly,

the strangers bearose.

be winners, when disputes

An

open contest was prevented, by the restoration of

the property
parties,

won

but a coolness between the

was

visible.
;

The

strangers soon set out,

to return

home

but as they were

embarking

in

their canoes, a worthless fellow fired

upon them,

and

killed one of them.

This disaster caused them

uttering at the

to hasten

their departure,

same

time the threat, that they would soon return, with

a large band of their relations, to revenge the

death of their companion.

sacrificed for a trifle,

Human
is

life

is

often

among the savages; and he

only

may

feel secure,

who

prepared to oppose

strength to aggression.

Monday, July

24.

Fruits,

of various

kinds,

now

begin to ripen.
is,

Of
that

this

delicious food,
shall
it

the

present prospect

we

soon have an

abundance

and

for this favour,

becomes us
person

to
is

be grateful

to the

Bestower.

The

who

surrounded with the comforts of civilized

life,

knows not how we

wilderness.

prize

these delicacies of the

Our

circumstances, also, teach us to

Harmon's journal.

251

enjoy and to value the intercourse of friendship.

To be connected, and to have intercourse, with a warm and disinterested friend, who is able, and
will

be

faithful, to point out

our
is

faults,

and to

di-

rect us by his good counsel,

sing.

surely a great bles-

Such a

friend, I have, in

my

nearest neighpast,

bour, Mr. Stuart.

For some time

he has and
in-

frequently written to
structive letters,
its,

me

long, entertaining
to

which are a cordial

my

spir-

too often dejected,

by the loneliness of
reflections

my
on

situation,

and more frequently, by

life

my

past

of folly and of

sin.

Mr. James

Dougall, also, another gentleman in this depart-

ment,

is

equally dear to me.

intercourse
less

His distance from

practicable
to
;

me, renders

but
in

when we meet, we endeavour

Friday^ August 4.
tain the

make up

conversation, for our long separation.

The

holy scriptures con-

most abundant

instruction, in

regard to
to our

the duties

which we owe

to

God, and
in

fellow creatures.

To

aid

me

keeping these
in

instructions, habitually

and distinctly

view, that
I

my
I

life

may thereby be more exemplary,

the

think

proper to form the following resolutions, which

hope, by the aid of

Holy

Spirit,

to

be

enabled to observe, during

my

life.

Resolved, that the

scoffs of

the

wicked,

di-

rected against serious religion, shall never have

252
any other
strive, the

Harmon's journal.
effect

upon

me, than

to

make me
life

more

earnestly, to lead the

of a

sincere christian.

Resolved, to be

in

the company of the wick;

ed, as little as possible

and when among such

people, to endeavour to persuade

a

them

in

such

way

as

may be

consistent

with propriety, to

forsake their evil courses.

Resolved, to
far as

assist

the poor and

needy, so
;

may be

consistent with

my means

hop-

ing that avarice

may never prevent me from

in

judging correctly,

regard to
let

this subject.

Resolved, never to

day

pass,

when

at

home, or when convenient, abroad, without reading a portion of the holy scriptures, and spending

half an hour or more, in meditating on what I

have read

and that the whole of the sabbath,

not in

when

it

is

my power

to

attend publick
bi-

worship, shall be spent in prayer, reading the

ble, or sermons,

or some other religious book, in

self examination,

and

in

meditating on the eternal

world.

Resolved, to offer up daily prayers to

the

throne of grace, for a right temper of mind, that

I

may be

constant and diligent, in strictly observ-

ing the above resolutions.

And

pray that

my

humble endeavours may, by the blessing of God,

keep me

in the

path of holiness, so that

may.

Harmon's journal.

253

from day to day, become better prepared to enter the

world of
shall

bliss,
fit

whenever my Maker and

to terminate

Redeemer
course.

see

my

mortal

Amen. Monday, 7. At
At
;

half past seven, A.

lasted about
sitting in

M. we
twenty

had an earthquake, which

seconds.
that time I

was

a chair, in

the house

and the agitation put me, and the

in a

whole house,
rolled about

motion

like that of a

canoe

when

by considerable
at this place.

swells.

The

Natives

say, that a similar shaking of the earth occurs, al-

most yearly,

Sunday, 13.
river,

Salmon begin

to

come up
for

this

which

lights

up joy
destitute

in

the countenances,
;

both of ourselves and of the Natives

all

we had

become nearly

of provisions, of any
not allow us to suf-

kind.

kind Providence

will

fer want, though

we

so little deserve favours.

2.

Monday, October

Within a few days

past,

we have

caught, in nets

made

for the purpose, of

strong twine, three sturgeon, one of which meas-

ured ten feet and three inches

feet

in length,

and four

and one inch round

his middle,

which might
All

weigh about four hundred pounds.

have taken, were uncommonly
flavour of any that
1

that

we

fat,

and of the best

have ever eaten.

one of their young wo-

Friday, 13.
for

This afternoon, the Natives sent

see

me

to

come and

254
men, who lay
lage
;

Harmon's journal.
at the point of death, at their vilI

and, merely to please them,

went, without

expecting

to render her any service, especially

I

with the medicines which we have here.

her so far gone that
I

found

thought

it

would not be
the Indians,
after

proper to give her any thing.

moreover, that
if

I told

she should die, shortly

taking our medicines, they would say, as they ever

do

in

such cases, that

assured

was the cause of her death.

to the contrary
I
;

They
I

me however,

and

gave her a simple medicine, which

supposed

could do her neither good nor harm, with which

they were
I

satisfied.

understood that her relations had

said,

that
ill-

a certain Indian, by his magic, had caused her

ness,

and that he would

finally

take her

life.

I,

therefore, took this opportunity of repeating again,

what

had often told them before, that God, the

powerful being,

infinitely

who made every

Upon
it

thing,

had alone the power of causing their

dissolution,
this,

whenever he thought proper.

the chiefs,

one of

who thought
who remained
life.

himself more knowing

than the others, observed, that

the salmon,
taking the
at

was the God of

that

the sea,

girl's
;

replied,

who was God is in

heaven above
he can

but that, so searching are his eyes,

easily see

what takes place on the face of

the whole earth.

They

said,

it

might be so

but

Harmon's journal.
they could not conceive, by what
to

255

means

came
I

have a knowledge of these

to explain to

things.

This,

en-

deavoured

them.
1.

Wednesday,
three of our

November

This

afternoon,

men

arrived from

the Rainy Lake,

who say
pany
at

that they left the remainder of their com-

M Leod's
c

and Stuart's Lakes.

from people
in

They

de^
;

livered

me
I

letters

this
in

country

but none from home.

canoes,

By

the

men

the other

hope

to receive letters

from

my

friends

below.

We

are

happy

to be informed, that

peace

has taken place between Great Britain and the

United States.

My
16.

earnest desire

is,

thai

they

may

long continue to enjoy this blessing.

Thursday,

We

have now about three

inches of snow on the ground.

Sunday,

March

17, 1816.

In consequence of

the late arrival, at fort Chippewyan, of the

men

who went
which
below.
is

to the Rainy Lake, two canoes, which were expected last fall, could not then proceed here,

the reason
I

why

have but just received

the letters that

then expected, from

my

friends
intelli-

They

bring

me

the distressing

gence, that two of

my

brothers are brought, by a

consumption, to the borders of the grave.

should
I

Happy

consider myself, could.

once more see

them
will

in this world.

But,

if this

of the

L,ord be dorit.

may not be, the By this affliction I

256

Harmon's journal.
this

have renewed proof, that

rest
;

world cannot be

my
dy-

and

pray

God

to

prepare me, and

my

ing brothers, for that

happy abode, where

a sepa-

ration of friends never causes the heart to bleed.

Monday, April
to

15.

My
in

desire

to

return
intense,
it

my
now,

native country has never been so

since I took
is

up

my
I

abode

the wilderness, as

in

consequence of the peculiar situation of

;

my

friends

yet,

cannot think of doing

I

it

this

season, as

it is

absolutely necessary that

should

pass the ensuing

I shall

summer

at this place.

write to
as

my
live

friends below,
in

a few days

hence

and

we
I

a world of disappoint-

ment and death,

am

resolved to forward to

them

by Mr. John Stuart, a copy of

my

Journal, in or-

der that they may know something of the manner

in

which

have been employed, both

as

it

res-

pects

my

temporal and spiritual concerns, while in

if
I

the wilderness,

should never enjoy the inexpersonal intercourse with

pressible pleasure of a

them.
Wednesday, 24.
Stuart's Lake.
I

have just returned from

there,
I

While

agreed with Mr.

this

George
pany.

c Dougall

to remain in

country two

years or more, as clerk to the North

He came
Lord

out the last

West comsummer from Cana-

da, with

Selkirk's party, without having ob-

ligated

himself to cdfctinue with them, for any

Harmon's journal.
definite time.

257
Fort Verhis

After they arrived at

milion on
periour,

Peace River, he was treated by

Mr. John Clarke,
left
in

su-

so

unbecoming a
this
'

manner, that he
quarter to

them, and had come into

visit his

brother, Mr. James

c DougalL,

before he should return to Canada, which he de-

signed to do the ensuing summer.

Saturday, July 20.

en,

Strawberries begin to rip-

and we have the prospect of an abundance of

fruit.

them, as well as of other kinds of

1

now

pass a short time every day, very pleas-

antly, in teaching

my

little

daughter Polly to read

and spell words

in

the English language, in which

(

she makes good progress, though she knows not

the meaning of one of them.
In conversing with
Indian lan-

my

children, I use entirely the Cree,

;

guage

with their mother

more frequently emis

ploy the French.

Her

native tongue, however,

is

more

familiar to her,

which

the reason

why

our

children have been taught to speak that, in pref-

erence to the French language.

Tuesday, September
9.

Salmon begin

to

come

up

this river.

Thursday,

October

3.

We

have taken our

vegetables out of the ground.

We

have

forty-

one bushels of potatoes, the produce of one bushel

planted the last spring.

Our

turnips, barley,

&c,

have produced

well.

33

258

HARMON'S JOURNAL.

Saturday, November 23.

By

our people

who
I
afflic-

returned this afternoon from the Rainy Lake,

have received
tive

letters,

which announce the

intelligence,
I

whose decline
fondly
earth,
ty of
all

two of my brothers, of had before been informed, are

that

gone into eternity.

The happy
I

days that

had
on

hoped that
I

should pass

in their society
is

shall

never enjoy.

Such

the uncertain-

all

earthly expectations.
right.

But the Judge of

bro-

the earth has done

My departed
to a

thers gave evidence, to those

around them, that

world where

they died
gospel.
sin

in

the faith and hope and peace of the are gone,

I trust,

They

and suffering cannot follow them.

When
laid

the cold hand of death shall have been

upon a few more of

my

relatives, there will

be
for

nothing remaining on the earth to console

their loss.

me

Nothing revives my drooping

friends,

spirits in

view of the departure of my

er,

one after anothlike the at length

from year to year, into eternity,

through rich grace,
I

hope
per-

that,

may be
in

mitted to join their society,

a world of perfect

purity and of uninterrupted and everlasting joy.

We
manner,

rarely prize
until

our blessings
their value

in

a suitable

we

learn
I feel

by being deone of them

;

prived of them.

the force of this truth, in

brothers.
I

regard to

my deceased
manner,

To

in a particular

am

deeply indebted

and

HARMON' S JOURNAL.
I

259
worth, un-

have never been

now.

fully sensible of his

til

During the whole period of

he has written to

my
me

resi-

dence
ally,

in this country,

annuletters.

long,

affectionate,

and

instructive

For

number of years

past, religion

was the great

for

subject of them.

He
;

was tenderly concerned

my my

spiritual welfare
letters, that
I

and doubtless learned from

was lingering on the gloomy

disposed to heed,
friendly admonition.
this

confines of infidelity, and little

as I ought to

have done,

his

So

far

from being discouraged by

it

circum-

stance,

only rendered him

in his efforts
;

more vigorous and

his

persevering
chief
as I

and

letters

stand

among the means, which have been

to

blessed,

would hope,

my

conversion from the love

and practice of

sin, to

the fear and service of God.

These

letters

have also been of use to the few

I

friends, to

whom

have shown them.

to

It

would

have given me great pleasure

ed, in person, the obligation

have acknowledgI

which

am

under to
to infinite

him

but

it

becomes not me

to dictate

wisdom.
I

have,' also, received letters

from gentlemen

in different parts

of this country, which inform

me

of the

many

disasters that befel the people

whom

Lord Selkirk sent the year before, from Scotland,

the

Orkney

Islands,

and Canada, some of

were destined

to

form a colony on the

whom Red Riv-

260
er,

HARMON'S JOURNAL.
traffic

and others to

with the Natives,

in dif-

ferent parts of the Indian country.

They

consist-

ed

at

first,

as

am

informed, of two or three hun-

dred men, together with a few

ren.

women and

child-

Those,

who went

to establish themselves on
its

the

Red

River, at a short distance from

en-

trance into the great Winnipick Lake, began, soon

after their arrival, to

behave

in

a hostile

manner

toward the people of the North West Company,

who have

establishments
forts,

in

that

quarter.

Of

some of our
in

they actually took possession,

and carried away the property which they found

them

and, in

some

instances, they set fire to

to ashes.

the forts, and reduced

them

They

also

took

Duncan Cameron Esq.

a clerk,

partner of the

North West Company, and another gentleman,

who
to

is

whom

they carried,

in

the spring,
stat-

Hudson's Bay, with the intention, as they

ed, of taking

them

to England.

In the course

of

the winter, as the Express of the North

West

Company was

passing that way, destined to the

Soult St. Maries, they took possession of that also,

perused the letters and other papers which had

been sealed up, and

All

finally carried

them

to

York

Factory, at Hudson's Bay.

this

unmerited treatment, at length so

provoked the people of the North West Company, that they proceeded to retake their

own

forts.

Harmon's journal.

261
as

which had not been burned, as well

some proppeo-

erty belonging to those disturbers of the peace.

In June, a
ple

number of the

Brules, that

is,

whose fathers were white men, and whose

mothers were Indian women, proceeded from the

upper part of
its

Red

River, toward the place of

entrance into the Lake, in order to guard some

property there belonging to the N.

ny.

W. Compato pass,

On

their way,

they were obliged over an open

for about

two

miles,'

plain, directly

behind Lord Selkirk's establishment.

they were observed, his

As soon as people came out in a

This was un-

body, and fired upon them, twice.

expected by the Brules

neither were they pre-

pared for such an encounter, as many of them

had neither gun nor ammunition.

ever, cut

Perceiving how-

that they

must defend themselves or be

returned the
fire
;

off,

those

who had arms

people
fell,

and the contest continued,

the noble Earl's

until

twenty two of

and

some others

were wounded.
killed,

The

Brules had only one

man
affair

and

one wounded,

This

unhappy

broke up the colony,

to

Some

of the people went

Hudson's Bay

but the greater

number

return-

ed to Canada.

Those of Lord
the English
ly for

Selkirk's people

who came

to

River and Athabasca, suffered great-

the want of provisions.

Out of nearly one

262

harmon's journal.
to

hundred who came

ally lost their lives

Athabasca, twelve actu;

by starvation

and

all

the

others must have shared the same unhappy fate,

had not the people of the North West Company

supplied

them with
lost

provisions.

In

short.

Lord Selkirk
the

the last year, in fight and by

starvation, sixty eight of his

men!
he

and
is

still,

with

phrenzy of a

madman,
4.

resolved on

pursuing his wild projects.

Wednesday, December
a foot
I

There

is

now about

and an half of snow on the ground.

fifteen

have sent

men, with each a sledge

to

drawn by two dogs and loaded with salmon,

M Leod's
c

Lake, for the subsistence of the peothere, and

for

ple

who

are to pass the winter

the additional number

spring, to

who

will be there in the

make up
in

the

furs into packs.

;

Salm-

on are our chief subsistence here

and they are

discharged

taken only

the waters which are

into the Pacific

Ocean.

The

outlet of

M Leod's
c

Lake
finally

enters

Peace

River, whose

waters,

are

discharged into the North Sea.

I

Thursday, January 2, 1817.

turned from a
interpreter

have just

re-

neighbouring

village,

where my
Soon
after,

gave

one

of

the

natives a decent
us.

drubbing, for having stolen from

the Indian

who had been

beaten, with a

number

of his relations, flew to arms, and surrounded our

harmon's journal.

263
no farther than

camp

but they proceeded at

in

first

to gesticulate

a threatening manner.

This

I I

permitted them, for a short time, to do, when

ordered

my men

to load their guns;

though
unless

I
it

was
be-

determined that they should not

fire,

came a matter of necessity. tives that we were prepared

and,
if

then told the Na-

to

defend ourselves,
us, to

they intended to
off,

fire

upon

begin

or

otherwise, to walk

and lay aside their arms,

which
them.
ter

if

they would not do,

we should

fire

upon
af-

They concluded

to retire,

and shortly

came back without

their arms,

and began to

trade, as if nothing

had happened.

Monday, February 10. This evening the mother of my children, was delivered of a daughter, whom I name Sally Harmon.
Wednesday, 19.
years of age.
I

am
I

this

day thirty nine

on the events of

When
and

reflect

my

past

life,

recollect,

especially,

many

instances a merciful

from the very jaws of death,

doubtedly have delivered
destruction,
I

God has when it would unme over to everlasting

in

how snatched me
in

am

grieved and ashamed,

view

of the ingratitude

with which

have requited

such
to

infinite kindness.

My

past

life

now appears
sins,

me

to

have been a continual course of

committed against a merciful Creator, Benefactor and

Redeemer.

have even denied the Lord

264

harmon's journal.
I

that bought me, and that because

could see no
is

need of that atonement for

thing
that has
!

sin,

which

the only

stood between

me

and hopeless

perdition

If I

have indeed been rescued from

if I

such a wretched condition,

ally

have been

effectu-

convinced of

my
for

sinfulness,

and have been

led, in the

exercise

of faith, to apply unto the

Lord Jesus Christ

tion, surely,
it

pardon and for

sanctifica-

can be attributed to nothing but the

grace of God.
in

Much
;

of
the

my

life

has been spent

the service of sin

little

that remains, ought

to be sacredly devoted to

May
viour.

the

Holy

Spirit

God and enable me

the
to

Redeemer,
live
in the

time to come, as a disciple of the blessed Sa-

Monday, September
8th of

1.

Stuarfs Lake.

On

the

May

last, I left

New

Caledonia, and went

as far as

Fort Chipewyan, on the Athabasca Lake.

I

This afternoon,
I

returned to

this place.

While
en-

was

at that

lake,

the Indians the

who were
us,

camped about the

fort, to
in

number of about
on account

one hundred, rose up

arms against

of a quarrel between one of their people and one

of our men.

We did not, however, come to blows

were persuaded
to

and, after a parley, the Indians

lay

down

their
;

arms.

Those

Chipeways are a
I

savage people

and they have as

believe, killed
in

more white men, than any other tribe

the North

Harmon's journal,

265
they burned

West
to
it.

country.
forts,

few years

since,

one of our

and killed every person belonging

On
at
in
it.

the 21st of June,

left
still

Athabasca Lake,
ice floating

which period, there was

In coming

about

up Peace River, we saw many

for our
in

of the buffaloe

and red deer, and killed as many

of them as

we wanted
also,

own consumption.
;

Black bears,

were

plenty
as
I

and of them,

we
the

killed eleven.

One day

was walking along

bear,
mile.

beach alone without

that

had cubs, pursued

for

my gun, a black me for nearly a

;

Happily

me,

could outrun her

and

there-

fore escaped

from her

terrible paws.

little

below the Rocky Mountain Portage,

river,

along the side of the

there

is

a kind of

marsh where earth, of a

is

beautiful yellow colour

found,

which when burned, becomes

a pretty

lively red.
it

The

natives use

it

as paint, for
also,

which
it

answers tolerably well.

We,

use

to

paint our forts and houses.

Saturday, October 4.

This evening, an Indian

arrived from Frazer's Lake, bringing the disagreeable intelligence, that yesterday in

the afternoon^
fire.

our fort there was

consumed by

We

have

reason to be thankful, however, that most of the

property which was

Thursday, 16.

in

it,

was saved.

We

have taken our vegeta-

34

266
bles out

Harmon's journal.
of the ground.
In consequence of the

There were months, during which not a drop of rain

very dry summer, they yielded but poorly.
fell.

Fruit

of

all

kinds

has been uncommonly

abundant

this season.
I

Wednesday, February 18, 1818.

have just

returned from a jaunt of twenty three days, to a

place

down

Frazer's River.

While there, the

all

Natives had concerted a plan to massacre us

but
I

discovered

it,

and kept

my

people on their

guard.

The

Indians, perceiving this,

dared not

attempt to execute their bloody and unprovoked

purpose.

Saturday,

May
will

2.

Expecting that the

I

ice in off

Peace River
lake

soon break up,

have sent

the last of our people

;

who are
I

going to the Rainy

as usual,

and by them

have forwarded,

my
to
if

accounts of the place, and letters to

I

my
I

friends

below.

look forward, with pleasing anticipation, of another spring,

I

the return

when

hope,

my

life is

spared,

shall

myself leave

this coun-

try on a visit

to the civilized world.

3.

Thursday, September

Last night, there

is

fell

about four inches of snow, which

earlier than I

have ever before seen

country.

it fail,

in

this

part of the

On

the 6th

ult.

salmon began to come

up

this river;

but they are not very numerous.

In the month of June,

we

took out of

this

Harmon's journal.

267

iake twenty one sturgeon, that were from eight to

twelve feet

in

length.

One

of
its

them measured
extreme
points,
;

twelve feet two inches, from

four
feet

eleven inches round the middle

five

and

would weigh from

hundred and

fifty,

to six

hundred pounds.

All the sturgeon that

we have
any oth-

caught, on this side of the mountain, are far superior in flavour, to any
I

ever saw

in

er part of the world.

A
the

few days

since,
five

we

cut

down and threshed

which
in
I

our barley.
first

The

quarts,

sowed on
bushels.

of May, have yielded as

many

One

acre of ground,

producing

the same pro-

portion that this

has done, would yield eighty

is

four bushels.
soil,

This

sufficient

proof that the

is

in

many
it

places in this quarter,

It will

favourable

to agriculture.

probably be long, howevthe fruits of cultivation.

suffer

er before

will exhibit

The
I

Indians,

though they often

for

the

want of
have

food, are too lazy to cultivate the ground.

frequently tried to

prevail

on some of

them
ising

to hoe

and prepare a piece of ground, promI

them

that

would give them potatoes and

to plant
it
;

turnips, with

which

but

have not
a

succeeded.

Having been from

their infancy trainis

ed up to privation, the fear of want

less

much

powerful stimulus to excite them to industry,

268
than
it is

Harmon's journal.
to those

who have always been

life.

accus-

tomed

to the comforts of civilized

Tuesday, October 13.

of snow on the ground.

We have

several inches

For several years

have been
beaver, &c.
in

past, Iroquois

from Canada*

the

habit

of coming into different

to hunt

parts of the

North West country,

the

The

Natives of the country, consider

them
do not

as intruders.
feel the

As they
in

are

mere

rovers, they

same

interest, as

those

who

perani-

manently reside here,

keeping the stock of

mals good, and therefore they make great havock

among the game, destroying

which are young and
old.

alike

the animals
Iroquois

number of
this

have passed several summers on

displeasing to the Indians

side of the

mountain, which circumstance they

here,

knew who have

to

be

often
in

threatened to

kill

them,

if

they persisted

de-

stroying the animals on their lands.

These mensince,

aces were disregarded.

quois,
killed,

month

an Iroall

with his wife

and two children, were

while asleep, by two Carriers of this

vil-

lage,

which melancholy event,

hope, will pre-

vent any of the Iroquois from coming into this region again.
Saturday, November
7.

We

have now about

peothat,

a foot of snow on the ground.

ple returned from the

To-day our

Rainy Lake, and say

Harmon's journal.

269

on account of the large quantities of ice that was

drifting

Peace River, they were obliged to leave the greater part of the goods, which they
in

had on board of the canoes, but a short distance We this side of the Rocky Mountain Portage.
shall

be obliged, therefore, to bring these goods

on sledges, drawn by dogs from that place, which,

is

distant

from

this,

about two hundred and eighty

miles.

Sunday, February 28, 1819.

Mr. George M. c

Dougall has arrived here from Frazer's Lake, to

remain, as
I

am

going to M^Leod's Lake, to pre-

pare for a departure for

intention
is,

Head Quarters
also,

and
visit

during the next summer, to

I

my my

native land.

design,

to take

my

family

with me, and leave them there, that they

educated

in

a civilized and christian manner.

children will

mother of
if

my
I

may be The accompany me and,

;

she shall be satisfied to remain

design to

in

that

part

of"

the world,

make her regularly my

It will

wife

by a formal marriage.
mark, that

be seen by

this re-

my

intentions

have materially changed,

her to
live
is

since the time that I at first took

with

me

and as

my

conduct

in

this

respect

differ-

ent from

that which has generally been pursued

by the gentlemen of the North

will

West Company,
in

it

be propor to state some of the reasons which

have governed

my

decision,

regard

to

this

270
weighty
affair.

Harmon's journal,
It

has been made with the most

;

serious deliberation

and,

hope, under a solemn

sense of

my

accountability to God.
this

Having lived with

though we were
each other, during
her,
tion
I

woman

as

my

wife,

never formally contracted to

life,

and having children by under a moral obligaconnexion,

if

consider that
to

am
the

not

dissolve
it.

she

is

willing to continue

The
us,

union

which has

been formed between

in

the providence of

God, has not only been cemented by a long and

mutual performance of kind
offices, but, also,

by a

more sacred
ligion,
I

consideration.

Ever

since

my own
of rein

mind was turned

effectually to the

subject

have taken pains to instruct her

the

great doctrines and duties of Christianity.

ertions
ciful

My exthat she

have not been

in vain.

Through the merI

agency of the Holy

Spirit,

trust
in

has become a partaker with me,

tions

the consolait

and hopes of the gospel.

consider

to

be

my

duty to take her to a christian land, where she

enjoy Divine ordinances, grow in grace, and

may

ripen for glory.

We

have wept together over

the early departure of several children, and especially,

over the death of a beloved son.

still

We have
the
civiliz-

children
both.

living,

who
I

are equally dear to us

How

could

spend

my

days

in

ed world, and leave

my

beloved children

in

the

harmon's journal.
wilderness?
of death.
er's love,

271
the bitterness

The

thought has
I

in it

How

could

tear
to

and leave her

them from a mothmourn over ther ab?

sence, to the day of her death

Possessing only

the

common
?
I

feelings of humanity,

how
the

could

think of her, in such circumstances,

without ancourse

guish

On

the

whole,

consider

which

design to pursue, as the only one

which
long
left

religion

and humanity would

justify.

Mr. M' Dougall informs me,

since,

that,

not

an Indian died at Frazer's Lake, and

behind him a widow, who had been

cumstances before, by the
band.
loss

in similar cir-

of a former husto be

day or two before the corpse was

burned, she told the relations of her late husband,

that she
slavery.

was resolved not

to

undergo a second
in

She therefore

left

the tent, secretly,

,

the evening, and hung herself from a tree.

Among

the Carriers, widows are slaves to the

relations of their

deceased husbands, for the term

of two or three years from the

their

commencement of
Their heads are
to

widowhood, during which, they are generalin

it

ly treated

a cruel manner.

shaved, and

belongs to

them

do

all

the drudg-

ery, about the tent.

They

are frequently beaten

with a club or an axe, or some such weapon.

Saturday,

May

8.

Leod\s Lake,
since.

arriv-

ed here about two months

Yesterday, the

272

Harmon's journal.
of

most of our people embarked with the returns

this

place, in
I shall,

three canoes

and a few hours

Canadians.
I

hence,

with

my

family, proceed in another,

six

which
It

will
is

be pushed on by

now

eight years and an half, since

came

to the

west side of the

Rocky Mountain.
in

My life,
preserv-

which has often been

ed
;

jeopardy,

is still

my
;

family have generally enjoyed, in a high

degree, the comforts, which this part of the world

affords

and, especially, they have

been exten-

sively blessed with health of body, and content-

ment of mind.
expect.

Our worldly
all

affairs

have prosper-

ed, to as great an extent as

we

could reasonably
it

For
gift.

these blessings,

becomes us

to

return unfeigned thanks, to the great Giver of ev-

ery good

Friday,
the

14.

Rocky Mountain Portage.

place,

All

way

to this

we have
ice,

drifted

down,
at five

amidst great quantities of

different places, the river

by which,

was completely blocked

to tarry, until

up, so that

we were

obliged
to

the

water rose so high, as

This
is

remove these

barriers.

the reason
to this

coming

why we have been so long in place. Had the river been high,
ice,

and yet clear from

that

the current
in

is

so strong,

we might have reached here

Wednesday, August
18.

two days.
I

Fort William.

have

at length arrived at

head quarters.

In coming

Harmon's journal

273
which
is

from

Mew

Caledonia to

this place,

a dis-

tance of at least three thousand miles, nothing un-

common
have
this,

has occurred.

few days hence,

the

shall

leave this place, to proceed to Canada.

already described

As I country between
conclude

and Montreal,

shall

here

my

Journal.

35

CHARACTER
OF THE CANADIAN VOYAGERS.

Like their ancestors the French,

dian Voyagers possess lively
tions
;

the Canadisposi-

and

fickle

and they are

rarely subject

to

depres-

sion of spirits, of
in

long continuance,
the

even
and

when

circumstances

most adverse.

Although
drinking
necessito

what

they consider

good

eating

constitutes their chief good, yet,

when

ty compels
privation
plaining,
ety. ly

them

to

it,

they submit

great

and
but

hardship, not

only without

com-

even with
are

cheerfulness

and gai-

They
are

very

talkative,

and extremeresolutions,
as

thoughtless,

and
as

make

many

which

almost

soon broken

formed.
;

They never
to serve

think of providing for future wants

and seldom lay up any part

of their
or

earnings,
in

them

in a

day of

sickness,

the

^276
decline of
life.

CHARACTER OF THE
Trifling provocations will

often

throw them
bour a

into

a
in

rage

but

they are easily

appeased when

anger,

and they never haragainst

those,

revengeful

purpose

by
ap-

whom
ed.

they conceive that they have been

are not

injur-

They
play

brave;

but

when they
often,

prehend
say,

little

danger, they will

as

they

the

man.

They

are very deceitful,

are exceedingly smooth and polite, and are even

gross flatterers to the face of

person,

whom
They

they

will
little

basely slander, behind his back.

pay

regard
is

to

veracity
to

or

to
;

honesty*

Their
are

word

not
to

be

trusted

and they
will

much

addicted

pilfering,

and

even
a
fa-

steal articles of considerable value,

when

vourable opportunity
not keep.

offers.

secret they can-

They
often
faithful

rarely feel

gratitude,

though

they are
but
not

generous.
servants.

They are obedient, By flattering their

little,

vanity,

of

which

they have n ot a
to

they
diffi-

may be persuaded
cult
enterprises,

undertake
their

the

most
are

provided

lives

not

endangered.

Although they are generally unainfor-

ble to read, yet they acquire considerable knowl-

edge of human nature, and some general

mation, in regard to the state

of this

country*

As they leave Canada while they are young, they have but little knowledge of the principles

CANADIAN VOYAGERS\
of the religion, which their Priests profess to

277
fol-

low, and before they have been long in the In-

dian country, they pay

little

more

attention

to

the

sabbath,

or

the worship

of God,

or any

other Divine institution, than the savages themselves*.

AN

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS

LIVING WEST OF

THE

ROCKY MOUNTAIN

.IT'..

V.*

>:

ACCOUNT,

&c.

As the Indians living on the west side of the Rocky Mountain, differ greatly in their language,
manners, customs, religion, &c. from those on the
east side,
it

may be proper
inhabit.

to give

concisely a

separate account of them, and

of the

country

which they

In doing

this, I

shall dwell

more

particularly on those things

which are pecu-

liar to

these people, as

design, in another place,

to give a general description of the Indians,

shall

which

have a principal reference, however, to the

tribes

more numerous
Mountain.

on the east side of the

pardoned,
if

I shall, I

hope, be

some

repetition shall be found, of things contained in

journal, as
it

my

cannot easily be avoided.

country, west of the
I

That part of the

Mountain, with which
since the

Rocky
ever
es*

am North West Company

36.

acquainted, has,
first

made an

282

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

tablishnient there,

which was
Caledonia;

in

1806, gone by

the

name

of

New

and

may extend
miles,

from north
from east
hundred.

to south, about five

hundred

and

to west, three

hundred and Mty or four

is

The
it,

post at Stuart's Lake,

nearly in
in

the centre of

and

lies,

as

already mentioned
in

my

Journal, in 54 30'

North Latitude, and

In
this

125

West Longitude from Greenwich.

thousand Indians, including men,
dren.

large

extent of country, there are not more than five

women and

chil-

New
Between

Caledonia
its

is

considerably mountainous.

elevated parts, however, there are

pretty extensive valleys, along which pass innumerable small rivers and brooks.
It contains a

great

number

of small lakes,

two of which are

Stuart's Lake,
in
is

consideis

rably large.

These are

which

about four hundred miles

Nate-ote-tain Lake, which
I

circumference, and

nearly twice as large.

am

of the opinion that about one sixth part of

New
inate

Caledonia,

is

covered with water.

There
I

are but two large rivers.

Fraser's River,

One

of these

denomor

which may be
the

sixty

seventy rods wide.

tain,

It rises in

Rocky Mounsource

within a short distance

;

of the

of

Peace River
ander
c

and

is

the river which Sir Alex-

M Kenzie

followed a considerable distance,

in

-when he went to the Pacific Ocean,

1793, and

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

283
;

whiQh he took
is

to

be the Columbia River

but

it

now known

to be several miles north of that no-

ble stream.

The

other large river of

New
it

Cal-

edonia, rises near Great Bear's

Lake

and after
en-

passing through several considerable lakes,

ters the Pacific

Ocean, several hundred miles north

of Fraser's River.

The

mountains of
not
to

New
in
lies

Caledonia, in point of

elevation, are

be compared with those

which we pass through Peace

River,

coming up that part of

which

between

the

Rocky
There
;

Mountain portage and Finlay's Branch.

are some, however, which are pretty lofty

and

on the summits of one

in particular,
lies

which we see

from Stuart's Lake, the snow

of the year.

during the whole

The weather
few days
in

is

not severely cold, except for a

the winter,

when

the mercury
in

is

some-

times as low as 32 below zero,

Faranheit's theris

mometer.
milder than
in

The remainder
it is

of the season,

much

on the other side of the mountain,

the same Latitude.

in

The summer
;

is

never very

warm,
cool.

the day time

and the nights are generally

the year, there are frosts.

In every

month
falls

in

Snow
ber,

generally

about the fifteenth of

Novem-

and is all dissolved by about the fifteenth of c May. About Leod's Lake the snow sometimes

falls to

the depth of five feet

and

imagine that

284
it is

ACCOUNT OF THE
to

INDIANS.

be attributed to the great depth of the

solitary ones, are to be

snow, that no large animals of any kind, excepting a

few

met

with.

There are
casionally,
kill

few Moose
seasons.

and the Natives ocCariboo are also

smaller

a black bear.

found,

at

some

Some

animals

are found, though they are not numerous.

consist of beavers, otters, lynxes or
cats,

They
fishers,

martins, minks, wolverines, foxes of different kinds,

badgers, polecats, hares and a few wolves.

The

fowls are swans, bustards, geese, cranes, ducks of

several kinds, partridges, &c.
rivers

All the lakes and

are

well

furnished

with

excellent

fish.

They are and many

tumn.

the sturgeon, white-fish, trout, sucker

of a smaller kind.

Salmon,

also, visit

the streams, in very considerable numbers, in

Au-

A small

share of industry, therefore, would

all

enable the Natives,- at

times,

to

provide for

themselves a

sufficient

supply of agreeable, whole-

some and

nutritious food.

The
lies,

Natives of
;

New
people

Caledonia,
call

we denomiwater.

nate Carriers

but they

themselves Ta-cul-

which

signifies

who go upon

This name originated from the fact that they

generally go from one village to another, in canoes.

They

are of the middle stature, and the

men

are well proportioned;

but the

women

are

generally short and thick, and their lower limbs

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

are disproportionately large.

285
re-

Both sexes are

in
filthy in their

markably

negligent
;

and slovenly,

regard to
cooke;

their persons
ry.

and they are

Their

dispositions are lively

and quiet

and
in

they appear to be happy, or at least contented,

their

wretched

situation.

They

are indolent
;

but

apparently more from habit than by nature

and

probably

this

trait

in

their character, originates

liveli-

from the circumstance, that they procure a

hood, with but
little

labour.

Whenever we em-

ploy any of them, either to work about the fort

or in voyaging, they are sufficiently laborious and
active
;

and they appear to be pleased, when we

thus furnish

them with employment.

sliest

They

are

not in the habit of stealing articles of great val-

ue

but they are the

pilferers,
will

perhaps,
not only

upon the face of the earth.

pilfer
offer,

They

from

us, but,

when

favourable opportunities

they are guilty of the same low vice among

their friends

and

relations.

bly fond of the white

They are remarkapeople. They seldom bethough they are natany of our people, however,

gin a quarrel with any of us,

urally brave.
treat

When

them

ill,

they defend themselves with cour;

age,

and with considerable dexterity

will fight a tolerable
is

and some of
battle.

them

Canadian

Their language

very similar to that of the

affinity to

Chipewyans, and has a great

the tongues,

286

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

spoken by the Beaver Indians and the Sicaunies.

Between

ail

the different villages of the Carriers,

there prevails a difference of dialect, to sucji an

extent, that they often give different

names

to the

most common
ticular

utensils.
its

.Every
the

village has

its

par-

name, and

inhabitants
in

are called after

the

name
in

of the village,

same manner

as

people

the civilized world receive a name, from

the city or country whioh they inhabit.

Their clothing

consists of a covering

made of

the skins of the beaver, badger, muskrat, cat or

hare.

The

last

they cut into

strips,

about one

inch broad, and then

er, until

weave or

lace

them togethto cover

they become of a
to

sufficient size

their bodies, and

reach to their knees.

over
their

This

garment
tie

they put

shoulders,

and

about

their waists.

Instead

of the

above

named
us,
ets,

skins,

when they can

or

obtain

them from
moose
either

they greatly prefer, and make use of blankcapots,

Canadian
skin.

coats, cloth or

and

red deer

They seldom
summer.
of the

use

leggins or shoes, in the

At

this sea-

son the
to

men

often go naked, without

any thing

cover

even

that

part

body

which

civilized,
it

and the most, even of savage people, think

necessary to conceal.
sense

Indeed they manifest

regafd to

as'

little

of

shame

in

this subject, as

the very brute creation.

The women, however.

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

in addition to

287

the robe of beaver or dressed moose

or eighteen inches
to their knees.
skin, or

skins,

wear an apron, twelve

broad, which reaches nearly

down

These aprons are made of a piece of deer Of the of salmon skins, sewed together.
this
fish,

skin of

they sometimes

make
;

leggins,

shoes,

bags, &c. but they are not durable

and therefore

they prefer deer skins and cloth, which are more

pliable

and

soft.

The, roughness of salmon skins,

renders them particularly unpleasant for aprons.

few of the male Carriers recently make use

of the breech-cloth,

made

of cloth which they pro-

cure from us

but as evidence that no great sense

it,

of delicacy has induced them to wear

see
it

you

will

one day at

its

proper place, the next, prob-

ably, about their heads,

and the third around their

necks;

and so

on, repeatedly shifted

from one
and from

place to another.

Both sexes perforate

them, the

their noses

men

often suspend an ornament, consist-

ing of a piece of an oyster shell, or a small piece

of brass or
those

copper.

The women,
wooden

particularly

who

are young, run a

pin through
fix

their noses,

upon each end of which they

is

kind of shell bead, which

half long,

about an inch and an

of the stem of a

and nearly the

clay pipe.

size

common

These beads, they obtain

from their neighbours, the At-e-nas, who purchase

288

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

them from another tribe, that is said to take them on the sea shore, where they are reported to be
found
in plenty.

All the Indians in this part of the country, are

remarkably fond of these beads

and

in

their

dealings with each other, they constitute a kind of

circulating
countries.

medium,

like

the

money of

civilized

Twenty

of these beads, they consider

as equal in value to a beaver's skin.

The

elderly
in the

people neglect to ornament their heads,

same manner

as they

do the

rest of their persons,

and generally wear their hair short.

But the

younger people of both sexes, who

licitous to
er,

feel

more

so-

make themselves agreeable

paint their faces,

to

each oth-

wash and
long.

and

let their hair

of,

grow
tain

The
;

paint

which they make use

consists of vermilion,

which they occasionally obstone,

from us

or

more commonly, of a red

fine, of which there are two kinds. The powder of one kind of these stones, mixed with grease, and rubbed upon their faces, gives them

pounded

a glittering appearance.

The young women and

girls

wear a parcel of

^European beads, strung together, and tied to a

lock of hair, directly behind each ear.

The men

have a sort of collar of the

shell

beads already

mentioned, which they wind about their heads, or

throw around their necks.

In the

summer

season^

ACCOUNT OF THE
both sexes bathe often
;

INDIANS.

289

and

this

is

the only time,

when
treme

the married people

is

wash themselves.
to

One

of their customs
filthiness,

sufficient
is,

evince their ex-

and that

whenever they blow

their noses,

they rub the mucus between both

hands, until they

become

dry.
it

Among
girls,

the Carriers,

is

customary for the

from the age of eight to eleven years, to

a kind of veil or fringe over their eyes,

wear
skin,

made

either of strung beads, or of narrow strips of deer

garnished with porcupine

quills.

While of

this age,

they are not allowed to eat any thing,

;

excepting the driest food

and especially they

If they

may

not eat the head of any animal.

their
relations,

should,

as

they imagine, would

also,

soon languish and die.

The women,
some time

during

their pregnancy, and for

after they are

food.

delivered, are restricted to the

same kind of
swan's

The
puberty,

lads, as
tie

soon as they come to the age of

cords,
leg,

wound
little

with

down,

around each

below the knee, which

they wear during one year, and then, they are

considered as men.

The

Carriers

are

unusually

talkative

and

when fifteen or twenty of them get into a house, they make an intolerable noise. Men, women and children, keep their tongues constantly in motion
and
in

controversy, he

who

has the strongest and

37

290

ACCOUNT OF THE
is

INDIANS.

clearest voice,

of course heard the most easily,

and, consequently, succeeds best in his argument.

They
at

take great delight,

also,
air.

in

singing, or

ming, or whistling a dull

In short,

humwhether

home

or abroad, they can hardly be

It

contented

with their mouths shut.

fore

was a long time be-

we
is

could keep

them

still,

our

forts.

And even
often,

yet,

when they came when they visit

to
us,

which
they
song.

almost every day, during the whole year,

inadvertently,

will

break out into a

or they re-

But

as soon as

we check them,

collect of themselves

what they are about, they

stop short

for

they are desirous of pleasing.

The above
ces

trait in their character, certainly evin-

much contentment with

spirit.

their condition,

and

cheerfulness of

Both

sexes, of almost every age, are

dicted to play, or rather gambling.

much adThey pass

in
in

the greater part of their time, especially

the

winter season, and both days and nights,

some

kind of
last

game
far

and the men

will

often loose the

rag of clothes, which they have about them.

But so

from being dejected by such

ill

fortune,

they often appear to be proud of having

all
;

lost their

and

will

even boastingly

say, that they are as

naked

as a dog, having not

a rag with which to

in

cover themselves.
stances,

Should they,
friend,

such circum-

meet with a

who

should lend them

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

something to wrap around their bodies,
probable, that
it is

291
highly

they would immediately go and

Or,
if

play

away

the borrowed garment.

to

the bor-

rower belonged

another village, he would be

it,

likely to run off with

and the owner would nefor

I

ver hear of him afterward;

never knew a

Carrier to be grateful for a favour bestowed upon

him.

At

play, they often loose

part of a gar-

ment, as the sleeves of a coat, which some of

them now purchase from

to the winner.

us, a

whole, or the half

off,

of a leggin, which they will tear

and deliver
to cut off
at play

a foot or
for, like

They have been known more of their guns, when lost

more gentlemanly gamblers, they consider

Carriers are not so ingenious
as

such debts, as debts of honour.

The

their

neighbours, the Nate-ote-tains and At-e-nas.

The

men, however, make canoes, which are clumsily

wrought, of the aspin tree, as well as of the bark
of the spruce
fir.

The

former, will carry from

half a ton to a ton and an half burthen, while the

latter, will

carry from one to four grown persons.

excellent nets, of the inner
tree,

The women make

bark of the willow

and of

nettles,

which anor thread.

swer better

for taking small

fish,

than any which

we

obtain from Canada,

made of twine

The

Carriers, in

common with

the other In-

dian tribes, before their country was visited by

V".

292

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

white people, made use of stones, instead of axes,

and of bones,
constructed

for knives

and with these, they

wooden

dishes,

and other vessels of

the rind of the birch and pine trees, &c.

Some

of these vessels were used to cook their victuals

in,

and many of these people

still

make

use of them

for they are too poor to purchase brass or

copper

kettles from us.

They

have, also, other vessels,

which are manufactured of the small roots or

fibers of the

cedar or pine tree, closely laced

to-

gether, which serve

in.

them
at

as buckets to put

water
of

have seen one

Fraser's Lake,

made
feast

the same materials, that would hold sixty or seventy gallons,

which they make use of when a

all

is

given to

the people of the village.

All the

vessels fabricated of roots, as well as the most of

their

bows and arrows, they obtain from

their

neighbours, above mentioned.

The

Carriers are remarkably fond of their

wives, and a few of

polygamy
such
as

is

not general

them have three among them.

drawing
fire

or four

but

The men
wood, and

do the most of the drudgery about the house,

cutting

and

bringing water.

In the winter months, they drink

5

but

little

water

but to quench their

thirst,

they

eat half melted snow, which they generally keep

on the top of a
the
fire.

stick,

stuck into the ground, before

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS,

293
they

As the Carriers are fond of

their wives,

are, as naturally might be supposed, very jealous of

them

but to their daughters, they allow every

as they say,

liberty, for the purpose,

of keeping

men from intercourse with the married women. As the young women may thus bestow their favours on whom, and as often as they
the young
please, without the least censure
rents,

from their pait

or reproach to

their character,

might

naturally
I

be expected that they would be, as

actually are, very free with

am

informed they
persons.

their

In

the following particular, the

all

Carriers differ from

the

other Indian tribes,

with

whom

have been acquainted.

Among

oth-

er tribes, the father or mother in law, will never,

excepting

when drunk, speak

to a son or

daughter

inlaw; but the Carriers make no

this respect.

distinction, in

The

Carriers reside a part of the year in

at convenient

vil-

lages, built

places

for

taking and

drying salmon, as they come up the rivers.

fish

These
labour

they take

in

abundance, with

little

and they constitute their principal food, during

the whole year.

They
;

are not very unpalatable

when

e.aten alone

but with vegetables, they are

Natives, however, are too

pleasant

food.

The

slothful to raise vegetables,

and use none, exceptus.

ing a

few which they obtain from

294

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

Toward

the middle of April, and sometimes

to

sooner, they leave their villages,

go and pass

about two months at the small lakes, from which,

at that season,

they take white

fish,

trout,

carp,

&c. in considerable numbers.

gin to
sist
fail,

But when these be-

they return to their villages, and subfish,

on the small

which they dried when at

sea-

the lakes, or on salmon, should they have been so

provident as to have kept any until that late

son
;

or they eat herbs, the inner bark or sap of

the cypress tree, berries, &c.

fish

At

this season,

few

of any kind, are to be taken out of the lakes

or rivers of

New

Caledonia.

In this

manner the
the
to

Natives

barely subsist, until

about

middle

of August,

when salmon
all

again begin

make

their appearance, in

the rivers of any consid-

erable magnitude

and they have them at most

latter

of their villages in plenty, until the

end

of September, or the beginning of October.

For
;

about a month,

they come up

in

crowds

and
or

the noses of some of

rotten
off,

them are
in this

either

worn

and the eyes of others have perished

;

in their

heads

and yet,

they are surprisingly

ids.

alert, in

maimed condition, coming up the rap-

These maimed
call

fishes

are generally at the

head of large bands, on account of which, the

Natives

them

Mi-u-ties, or Chiefs.

The

In-

dians say that they have

suffered

these

disas-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

ters,

295
stones,

by

falling

back

among the
in

when

coming up
thej
pass.

difficult

places

the

rapids which

The
manner.

Carriers take

salmon

in

the

following
assist in

All the Indians of the

across the river,
in

village

making a dam

which they

oc-

casionally leave places, to insert their baskets or

nets of wicker work.

rally

These baskets are geneand

from

fifteen to eighteen feet in length,

from twelve to

fifteen feet in circumference.

is

The
mouse
have
to the

end at which the salmon enter,

trap.

made with

twigs, in the form of the entrance of a wire

When

four or five hundred salmon

it

entered this basket, they either take

shore to empty out the fish;

or they take

out at a door in the top, and transport

them them to

the shore in their large

wooden

canoes,

which are
take out
tails

convenient for this purpose.

When

the salmon

are thrown upon the beach, the

their entrails, and
poles, in the

women

hang them by their

air.

on

open

After remaining

in this

situation for a

day or two, they take them down

in

and cut them thinner, and then leave them to

hang for about a month

the open

air,

they will have become entirely dry.

when They are

then put into their store houses, which are built

on four posts, about ten feet from the ground,

to

prevent animals

from destroying them

and

296

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

provided they are preserved dry, they will re-

main good for several years.

The

Carriers take beavers

in

thongs of cariboo skins, or

made of baskets made of

in

nets,

young cypress stadies

and sometimes they shoot

or guns, or
sell

them with bows and arrows, them in steel traps, which we

of which they

take

to them,

and

begin

to

understand the value.

Cats, martins, fishers, foxes, minks, &c. they take

in a

kind of spring trap, which consists of a large

piece of wood, which these animals, by nibbling

at the bait, cause to fall

upon and crush them.

they generally
take in

Bears, sw ans and hares

T

snares
in this

and the

cat, also,

they sometimes take

manner.

They

hunt the beaver and bear,

more
skins
;

for the sake of their flesh, than to obtain the

for
it is

with the meat of these animals

their
feasts, in

that they

make

remembrance of

their deceased

relatives.

At such

festivals,

they cut up as many dressed

moose and red deer

inches

skins as they can well procure,

into slips, about eighteen inches long,

and twelve
their

broad, and distribute

them among

friends and relatives.

And they

firmly believe,

that these ceremonies must be performed, before

their

departed relative can be at

rest,

in

the

place whither he has gone, which they think to

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

297

be the interiour of the earth, where they expect

that they shall
all

at length
little

be happy.
that can be

The
inated
concerns.

Carriers have

denom-

civil

government,

in

the regulation of their

There are some persons among them,

who

are called Mi-u-ties or Chiefs, and for

little

whom
much who
is

they appear to have a

for the others
;

more respect than

but these chiefs have not

authority or influence over the rest of the com-

munity.

Any

one

is

dubbed a

Mi-u-ty,

able and willing, occasionally, to provide a feast,

for the people of his village.
er,

An
or

Indian,

howev-

who

has

killed

another,

been guilty of
house or tent of
is

some other bad

to

action, finds the

the chief a safe retreat, so long as he

allowed
it,

remain there.

But

as

soon as he leaves

the Chief can afford the criminal no more protection,

than any other person of the village can, un-

less

he

lets

him have one of

will

his

garments.

This
person
safe

garment of the Chief,

protect a malefactor
it
;

from harm, while he wears

guard, sooner than he
himself;

for

no

would attack him, while clothed

and

with

this

would attack the chief

reit

if

he should, the chief would

in

venge

the

insult,

the

same manner

as if

were offered directly to which the Chief, in this

be to destroy the
life

himself.
case,

The

revenge

would

take,

would

of the offending person, or

38

298
that of

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

some of

his

near relations, or the

if

life

of

one of the same tribe,

he should happen to

be a stranger.

When
as
is

two or more persons disagree

case, or
chief, or
in

at play,

frequently the

contend

on

any

other account, the

and elderly man,

will step

some respectable between the two

wranglers, and settle the dispute, generally without their coming to blows.

The
and
in

people of every village

have a certain

extent of country, which they consider their own,

which they may hunt and

these
privilege

fish

but they
pur-

may
land.

not transcend

bounds, without
those

chasing the

of

who

claim the

Mountains and rivers serve them as bounand they are -not often broken over.
people of one village do not often
visit

daries,

The

those of another, as

there are generally misun-

derstandings existing between

them, which are

occasioned by murders, and at times by the hunting of the people of one village, in a clandestine

manner, on the

territories

of their

neighbours.
in a per-

By

one cause or another, they are kept

petual broil.

They

say however, that murders

as they

do not occur so frequently among them

did before they were visited by the white people.

The

Carriers are the most ignorant

I

people
to

among whom

have ever been.

They appear

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

299

have only a very confused and limited idea of the

existence of a

Supreme Being, the maker and

governour of the world, or of the devil or any

evil spirit
;

and they, therefore, neither worship

the former nor fear the latter.

as
it

But they believe,

in

has been already observed,

the immortalits

ity of the soul, and think

when
will

it

leaves

pres-

ent body,

it

goes into the bowels of the earth,

where, they
than

suppose

it

be
its

more happy
surface.

when an inhabitant of seem to have no idea of they

in

But

future rewards or

punishments,

consequence of any thing which

done, while
soul
it

they

may have

resident

on earth.

And whether
another body,

the

will

be furnished with
it

when

leaves that which

tell, it

ani-

mated on

earth, they say they cannot

being,

as they add,

beyond their comprehension.

They
a hu-

firmly believe, however, that a departed soul can,

if it

pleases,

come back

to the earth,

in

man shape or body, in order to see his friends, who are still alive. Therefore, as they are about
to set fire to the pile of
is*

wood, on which a corpse

ever come

laid,

a relation of the deceased person stands

at his feet,

and asks him

if

he

will

back among them.

Then

the priest or magician,

with a grave countenance, stands at the head of

the corpse, and looks through both his hands on
its

naked breast, and then

raises

them toward

300

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

heaven, and blows through them, as they say, the

soul of the deceased, that
it

may go and
any relative

find,
is

and

enter into a relative.

ent, the

Or,

if

pres-

priest will hold his hands on the

head

of this person, and blow through them, that the

spirit

of the deceased

may

enter

into

him or
child
soul of

her;

and then, as
this

they

affirm, the

first

which

person has, will possess

person.

the

the deceased

When

the

Carriers

are

severely sick, they

not

often think that they shall

recover, unless

they divulge to a priest or magician, every crime

which
will

they

may have committed, which

full

has

hitherto been kept secret.

In such a case, they

make

confession,

and then

they ex-

pect that their lives will be spared, for a time

longer.

But should they keep back

instant

single

crime, they as fully believe that they shall suffer

almost

death.

The

crimes

which

they most frequently confess, discover something

of their moral character, and therefore deserve
to

be mentioned.

man

will

often

acknowl-

edge that he has had a criminal and incestuous

connexion with his

own daughter
!

or sister, or a

criminal intercourse with a bitch

will confess, that

and a

woman
dog

she has had the same infamous

connexion with her

own

relations, or with a

Murder

is

not considered by the Carriers as

&

ACCOUNT OF THE
crime
of great
part

INDIANS.

301
therefore,
it

magnitude
of
their

and,

makes no

acknowledgments,
or
magicians.

in

their confessions to the priests

If

a murder be committed on a person belonging to a tribe with

whom

the}' are at

enmity, they re-

gard

it

as a brave
kill

and noble

action.

Should one

Indian

another, belonging to the

is

same
his

village

with himself, the murderer

son void of sense
;

considered as a pervillage

and he must quit

until

and remain away,

he can pay the relations

;

of the deceased for the murder

this has been done,
it

and even after

often occasions quarrels, be-

tween the

parties.

The
though
ry, that

Carriers are so very credulous, and have

so exalted an opinion of us, that they firmly believe,

I

have often assured them of the contracall

any of the Traders or Chiefs, as they

ihake
it

us, can, at pleasure,

fair or foul

weather.

And even
us,

yet

when they
will

are preparing to set out

on an excursion, they
provided

come and
or allow

offer to
it

pay
fair

we

will

make

to

be

weather, during their absence from their homes.

They

often inquire

of us whether salmon, that

year, will be in plenty in their rivers.

think, that by

They

also

merely looking

into our

books,

we
In

can cause a sick person to recover,

let the distance

which he may be from us be ever so great.

short, they look

upon those who can read and

write,

302

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

as a kind of supernatural beings,

is

who know all

that

past,

and

who

can see into futurity.

after

For a considerable time

we had been

among them, they were

ers

fully of the opinion, that

the white people had neither fathers nor mothr

;

but

way, or
moon.

came into the world in a supernatural were placed on the earth by the sun or

As
tions,

a further specimen of their limited concepis

they now firmly believe that a watch

it is

the

heart of the sun, because

ever

in

motion, as

they say, like that great body of

further,

light.

They add
were
befor the
is

that unless a watch and the sun

related,
it

nearly

would be impossible

watch, considering the distance which there

tween them,

to point out so precisely the

is

minute
to

when know
as

the sun

to

make

its

appearance and
that the
is

leave us.

In short, they say

one must

perfectly well

what the other

about, and

that there must be

some connexion between them,

between the members of the human body.

The

Carriers give the following account of the

tradition,

which they believe, respecting the forman early period of the world.

ation of the earth, and the general destruction of

mankind,
at first

in

Water
is

overspread the face of the world, which

a plain surface.
rat

At the top of the water, a muskin

was swimming about,

different

directions.

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

303

At length he concluded to dive to the bottom, to see what he could find, on which to subsist ; but he found nothing but mud, a little of which he
brought
in his

mouth, and placed

it

it

on the surface

of the water, where

for

remained.
it

He

then went

more mud, and placed

;

with that alreadyhis operations,

brought up
until

and thus he continued

he had formed a considerable

it

hillock.

This

land increased by degrees, until

overspread a

large part of the world, which assumed at length

its

present form.

The
in

earth, in process of time,

in

became peopled
this condition

every part, and remained

years.

for

many

Afterwards a

fire

run over

it all,

and destroyed every human being,

excepting one

man and one woman.

into a

They saved
in

themselves by going

deep cave,

a large

mountain, where they remained for several days,

until the fire

was extinguished.
hiding place
;

They then came

and from these

forth from their

two persons, the whole earth has been peopled.

Besides the feasts,

made
in

for their dead,

which

have been described

are frequently

my

Journal, the Carriers

give others, merely to entertain their guests,

all

who

the people of a village, as well as

to a neighbouring village.

a few

who belong
who makes

following ceremonies attend such festivals.

The The
is al-

person

the entertainment,

who

ways a Chief,

boils or roasts

several whole beav-

304
ers
;

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

and as soon as

his guests

are seated around

fire,

which

is in

the centre of his house, he takes

up

a whole beaver, and with a raised voice, reall

lates

how and where he killed it, that may know that it came from his own
necessary explanation
tail
is

present

land.

Af-

ter that

over, he steps

forward, and presents the

end to the most re-

spectable person of the house, and stands holding

the animal with both hands until this person has

eaten what he chooses.

The

chief then

passes

on with his beaver to the second person,

as the first

who eats
;

had done

and then
it

to a third

and

so on, until

he has presented

to the

whole

circle,

should any part

now

remain,
;

it is

laid

down near
in

the centre of the house

and another whole beais

ver

is

taken up, which

as

served round

the

same manner
e very beaver,

the

first.

And

thus the chief

continues to do, until his guests have tasted of

which he had prepared

for the feast.

The
cut

remaining fragments of the beavers, are

into smaller pieces,

now

up

and distributed among

the
the

women and
men have

children, or put into dishes,

which
al-

before them, and which they

ways bring with them, when they attend upon a feast. The women then come in with large dishes full of berries, and each

puts a ladle

full into

every dish of the men.

When

they have eaten

what they choose of the

berries, (for the Indians

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.
i

305

never urge their guests to eat more than they

please) both
eral
songs.

men and women join, in singing sevThe airs of many of these songs,
composed and
set to musick,

which have been

their
poets,

by

expressly for the occasion, greatly

I

resemble those which

have heard sung,

After singing
his dish
is

in

Ro-

man
it

Catholic churches.

conclud-

ed, each guest rises, with

contains,

and whatever
dwelling, and

and

returns to his

own

thus the festival ends.

At these
will
oil,

feasts,

there are a

frequently

Indians,

who

drink

at least

quart of melted bear's

merely to show

how

much At some

they can drink.

of their festivals, the

men and women

more, ac-

join in a dance.

Their musick on these occasions,

shaking of
the
dish,

consists of the singing of one person or

companied by the

she-she-qui,

which
dle
;

is,

ordinarily, a
it

covered
is

with a han-

but sometimes
bird,

curiously
it,

made

in

the

form of a
one head;
ments,
ed,
if

and within

are either gravel

stones or shot.

Others beat on a drum, with but

all

and these are

the

musical instru-

they can with propriety be so denominatI

which

have ever seen among them.

When

they dance, they paint their faces, and put swan's

down on
*

their heads, and while they are dancing,

others are almost continually blowing more through

both their hands, on the dancers;

They have

not

366

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

many

different kinds of dancing

but they have

of which are

a great variety of songs, the

airs

pleasant to the ear

from the
es.

singers,

when heard at some distance who generally have strong voic;

All Indians have accurate ears

and, there-

fore, they
sing.

keep exact time when they dance or

The
which
is

Carriers are almost entirely ignorant of

medicine, not having any knowledge of the virtue

found

in roots

and herbs, when adminisone of them

is

tered to the
call in

sick.

When

sick,

they

the priest or doctor, for the same person

;

discharges the functions of both

and he

is

joined

by several other persons

ancholy
air,

in

singing a very mel-

over the sick person,

which they

think serves greatly to mitigate his pain, and often

restores

him

to perfect health.
his

Before the docin

tor will afford

assistance,

doing which he

makes many

jestures, and goes through

much

cer-

emony, he must receive a present.

his patient die

But should

under

his care,

he must restore to

the relations of the deceased, the present which

he had received.
ans

The
I

Carriers are the only Indi-

with

whom

have been acquainted,

who

make no
certain

use of roots and herbs, and the bark of

trees,

with the

sick.

They, however,

place great confidence in our medicines.

During the winter months many of the Car-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

riers

307
in

make

their dwellings in

the earth,

the

following manner.
to the
site

They

dig a hole in the ground

feet,

depth of about two

from the oppo-

sides of

which, they erect

two considera-

ble sticks, to support a ridge-pole.

They then
the

lay poles from the margin

ridge-pole, until

of the hole to

they have completely enclosed

is

the dwelling, excepting a hole which the

top,

left

near

which serves the double purpose of a

leave
the hut,
post, in which, notches are cut;
to pass
off.

door by which they enter, and

upon an upright
poles are

and an opening for the smoke

The

made

tight, by stopping

the

intersti-

ces with hay, or

and

dirt

is

by covering them with bark then thrown over them, to a consid-

erable thickness.
ing healthy
;

These huts are far from bebut they are commodious for peo-

ple

who

are clad as poorly, as are most of the

Carriers.

The

Indians on the west side of the

in

Rocky
side
high,

Mountain, erect buildings,

which they deposit

the ashes and bones of their dead.

The

posts of these structures, are about six feet

a roof, covered with bark,

posts, in the

is

erected upon these

in the civi-

form of the roofs of houses

world
;

lized part of the

and around

theirsides, are

broad boards, made by

splitting trees,

which they
knife.

hew, and then smooth over with a crooked

308

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

these boards, which are

On

about an inch thick,

they paint images to represent the sun, moon,

stars

and different kinds of animals.

Within these

buildings, the remains of the

in

dead are contained

boxes, of different dimensions, which in

some

in-

stances, stand on the top of one upright post,

in

and

other cases, are supported by four.

The

paints

which they
they grind

use, in describing the figures

on these

buildings, consist of black

fine,

and red stones, which

and of a yellow and a red earth.

These

substances, they mix with glue, which they

obtain by boiling the feet of the buffaloe, or from

the inside of sturgeon, where

plenty.

these

fish

are in

They

put on their paints with a brush,

made

of the hair which they take from the leg

of the moose.

Among

the Carriers, there are some conjurors,

please,
alive.

who whenever they

swallow a small toad,

will

vomit blood, or
doing the latter,
or four
it,

By

however, they are made

sick,

for three

days ; and yet they are ever ready to do

for a

mere
nia,

trifling

recompense.

Among

the Indians

who

inhabit

New

Caledo-

the Sicaunies deserve to be mentioned.

They

are a small part of a tribe who, but a few years

since,
tain.

came from the

east side of the

Rocky Moun-

They now
c Lecd's

bring the produce of their hunts

to

Lake.

The

winter months, however,

ACCOUNT OP THE
a greater part of

INDIANS.

309

on the east side

sist

them pass among their relations, of the Mountain, where they subNotwithhunters, they would

on buffaloe, moose and red deer.

standing they are tolerable

not be able to
kill

a sufficiency of beavers to serve

themselves and families, during the winter, where

the snow
edonia.
is

so deep, as

it

generally

is

in

New

Cal-

The
called

people

who

are

now

called

Si-cau-nies, I

suspect, at no distant period, belonged to the tribe,

Beaver

Indians,
;

who

inhabit the lower part

differ

of Peace River

for they

but

little

from

them

in

dialect,

manners, customs, &c.

Some

misunderstanding between the Sicaunies and the

rest of the tribe to

which they formerly belong-

ed, probably drove

them from place

to place,

up

Peace River,
to cross the

until

they were, at length, obliged

Rocky Mountain.

The
fire

Sicaunies, are

more brave, and better armed than the Carriers,

who

have, as yet, but few

that
the'

arms;

and

it

is

probable

former

will

make encroach-

ments upon the

are
for
a. wretched

latter.

The
for

Sicaunies, however,

people;

they suffer greatly

the want of food, during nearly one fourth

part of the year,

when they

barely support
roots.

life,

by means of a few unpalatable

are remarkably fond of the

Yet they

country,

where they

now

are; and frequently intermarry with the Car-

310
riers,

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS,

and pass a part of their time with them, at

their villages.

They

have, also, adopted

many
is,

of
to

the customs of the Carriers, one of which

burn their dead

whereas, while they resided

on the other side of the Mountain, they were ac-

customed
Sicaunies

to

bury

them

in

the earth.

The
and
I

are not an ingenious

people

know
en

of nothing
ill

which they manufacture, ex-

cepting a few
dishes*.

wrought bows and arrows, wood-

&c
is

There
fixing

a tribe of Indians not far from the

Columbia River, who are called Flat-Heads.

compress them
to assume the
in
in

By

boards upon the heads of their children, they

such a mariner as to cause them

form of a wedge.
through

Another

tribe

New

Caledonia,

denominated Nate-ote-tains,
the

pierce a hole

under

lips

of their

daughters, into which they insert a piece of wood,

in

the shape of the wheel of a pulley

and as the

girls

grow

up, this

wheel

is

enlarged, so that a

woman
much
tainly

of thirty years of age, will have one near-

ly as large as a dollar.

This they consider, adds

but these wheels are cerus,

to their

beauty

very inconvenient, and to

they appear

very uncouth and disagreeable*

A GENERAL

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS

ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE

ROCKY MOUNTAIN

ft

ACCOUNT,

&c%

have been acquainted with

fifteen

different

tribes of Indians,

which are the Sauteux, Crees,

Indians,

Assiniboins,

Rapid

Black feet Indians,

Blood Indians, Sursees,Cautonies,Muskagoes,Chipeways, Beaver Indians, Sicaunies, Ta-cullies, Atenas and Nate-ote-tains.

The

parts of the country,

which they severally

ticed, in

inhabit,

have already been nomost enlightened, and

state

my

Journal.

The

tribes that are the

that have advanced the farthest toward a

of civilization, are the Sauteux or Chipeways, the

Muskagoes and the Crees, or Knisteneux, as they have been sometimes denominated. These tribes
have a greater knowledge than the other Indians,
of the medicinal qualities of the bark of trees, and

314

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

of herbs, roots, &c. and their medical

skill,

enables

them heavily
application,

to tax

the

other tribes.

Indeed,

their medicines, with their skill in regard to their

form considerable

articles

of com-

merce with their neighbours.

Sometimes, for a
will

handsome compensation, they

son

instruct a per-

where

to procure ingredients,

and how
in

to pre-

pare them as medicines, to be used

cases.
It is

particular

very probable, however, that the In-

dian doctors, like

some apothecaries
to

in

the

civiliz-

ed world,
It is

sell

some medicines, of

little

or no value.

also

well

known

those acquainted with

the Indians, that their physicians frequently effect

cures with their roots, herbs, &c.
in

cases,

which

would

baffle the skill

and the drugs, of a

scientifick

physician.

The
years.

white people have been among the above

tribes, for
this

mentioned

about one hundred and

it is

fifty

To

circumstance

probably to be
is

attributed, that the

knowledge of these Indians

But

more extensive, than that of the other tribes. I very much question whether they have improved
in their

character or condition, by their

In their sav-

acquaintance with civilized people.

age state, they were contented with the mere

necessaries of
life,

which they could procure, with

;

considerable
artificial

ease

but

now

they have many

wants, created by the luxuries which

we

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

31
find it

have introduced among them

difficult

and as they

to obtain

these luxuries,

they have betheir condi-

come,
tion,

to a degree, discontented with

in

and practise fraud

is

their dealings.

hall

civilized Indian

more savage, than one in his origThe latter has some sense of honour^ inal state. I have always expewhile the former has none.
rienced
the
greatest
hospitality

and

kindness

among

those Indians,

tercourse

who have had the least h> with white people. They readily disevil practices
;

cover and adopt our

not as the

but they are

quick to discern, and as

ready to follow
set

few good examples, which we

before

them.

The
eases.

Indians in general, are subject to

few

dis-

The

venereal complaint
;

is

common

to all

the tribes of the north

die of a consumption
;

many persons among them,

fevers, also,

frequently at-

tack

them

and they are likewise troubled with

pains in their heads, breasts and, joints.

Many

of

them, and especially the women, are subject to

fits.

For a

relief, in

nearly

all

of their diseases,

they resort to their grand remedy, sweating.

There
with
teux,

is

no

material difference in the

size*

features and

complexion of the different

tribes,

whom

have been acquainted.

The

Sau-

Crees and Assiniboins, together with the

other Indians

who

inhabit the prairies, are,

how-

316
ever,

ACCOUNT OF THE
the fairest and

INDIANS.

most cleanly.
all

The

Sau-

teux

women

differ

from

others,
in

by turning

their toes very

much
erect,

inwards,

walking.

The

Assiniboins, of both

sexes, are the best made, and

walk the most

ever seen.

of any

tribe

that I have
sel-

Fools and disfigured persons, are

;

dom

to

be met with among the Indians

I

the rea-

son of which,

believe to be, that their mothers

put them to death as soon as they discover their

unhappy

condition.

All Indian children,

a kind of bag.
leather, about

This bag

when young, are made of a is

laced
piece

in

of

two

feet square, by drawing a string,

inserted in the lower

sides together.
;

end, and lacing the

is

two

Some moss

placed

in

the bot-

tom of this bag the child is then laid into it, and moss is inserted between its legs. The bag is then laced
the fore side of the child as high as
its
it is

neck.

This

bag

is

laid

upon a board,

to

which

fastened by

means of a

strip of leather, passing

several times

round both the board and the bag.

this board, a

At the top of
which the
In-

bow

passes round from one side to the

its

other, perpendicular to

surface, on

dians fasten small bejls, which they obtain from us, or the claws of animals,

which

rattle,

by way of ornament, and when the child is carried by its

from
her
shoulders,

mother,

suspended

by

means of a

cord or belt fastened to the board.

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

31?

From two

points

In

this

bow, equally distant

of leather,

from the board, two

with porcupine
quills,

strips

worked
fix-

are suspended, at the ends

of which, tassels, composed of moose hair, are

ed.

This bag

is

commonly ornamented,
in

in differ-

ent parts, with porcupine quills.

are

The women who

these bags, several
it

particular

keeping their children clean,

is

shift the

moss which
;

put

into,

times in a day
twice.

but

others do
fix

not

more than

They

often

conductors so that their

male children never wet the moss.

women
pended

will nurse their

children,

The Carrier when thus sus-

at their

backs, either by throwing their

breasts over their shoulders, or under their arms.

Their breasts are larger and longer than those of

the other tribes
;

but

am

unable to assign any

cause for this peculiarity.

The
venient.

dress of the

Indians

is

simple and con-

They w ear
r

tight leggins,

each of which
or cloth,

Js composed of a %ewed up with a

single piece of leather

single

seam, about an inch (rWk^

the edge, which projects upon the outside.

These
hip.

garments reach from the ancle nearly to the

They have
an,

a strip of cloth or leather, called assi-

about a foot wide, and five feet long, which

passes

between the

legs,

and over a thong tied

covered with a

round the waist, so that the ends hang down, behind and before.

The body

is

3I&
shirt,

ACCOUNT OP THE
reaching

INDIANS.

down

to

the thighs, which

is

belted

with a broad piece of parchment, fa&tened together behind.

They wear

a cap

upon the head, com-

posed of a single piece of fur sewed up, or of the

skin of a small animal of a suitable
size,

which
;

is

cut off at both ends, and

at

sewed up

at the top

and

some times

it is

only cut of at the end towards

tail is left at

the head, while the

the top, to hang

down

behind, by

way

of ornament.
tail

They

have,

also, at

the proper season, the

of a buffaloe,

fastened to one of their wrists, which they use in

keeping

off

flies.

sort of robe or blanket

is

oc-

casionally

worn over the rest of ^their wear shoes and

lie

dress.
articles

They

also

mittens.

The

of their clothing by day, constitute their covering

when they

down

at
is

night.

The
moose

materials of

which their

clothing"

composed vary with the

skins,

season, consisting of dressed

beaver

prepared with the

fur,

or

European woollens.

Tl^leather, they frequently paint or work with

ijBrcupine
quills,

with no small degree of

taste.

The

skirts of their shirts,

and the seams of their

fringe

leggins,
tassels,
is

are often

ornamented with

and
and

composed of the

hair of the moose,

which

naturally white, but

which they

die yellow

red.

Their shoes and mittens have, likewise, an

appropriate decoration.

At a

feast or dance, they

wear the feathers of the swan, eagle and other

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

birds
;

319

and they occasionally wind a string of the

and claws of different animals, around

teeth, horns

their their

head or neck.
hair,

They
it

all

rub greese

upoti

which gives

smooth and glossy

to

appearance.
It

belongs to the

women

make up

the

arti-

cles

of clothing.

In sewing

leather,

instead

of

thread, they

make

use of the
is

sinews of animals.

When

this

substance

some moistened, they septo

arate a fibre, and by running their finger along

between

it

and the main sinew, they part

it

sufficient length.

The

sinews of the cariboo

as fine

may
one

be made as
fibres,

fine

and even,

thread.

These

when
stiff

thus separated, they twist at

fingers,

end between their

sharp
point,

which, gives them a

when
tfyey

they are dry.

They

use awls, which they obtain from us, or an instru-

ment of bone which

in

construct themselves,

sewing.

The men

paint their faces

and orna-

ment

their persons, with no less care than the

wo-

men; and the married women, while they neglect not their own persons, are still more attentive to
the appearance of their husbands.

The young
articles,

women

often

make some
neatly

ornamental

particularly

garters,

worked with porcuto their favourites

pine quills and present

them

and the standing of a young male Carrier among

320
\

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS*

the young females the

may
is

often be determined by

number of

garters which he wears.

The

female dress

made

of the same materi-

als as that

of the men, but differently constructed

and arranged.
their leggins
shirt or coat,

Their shoes are without ornament

are gartered beneath the knee
;

the

which
is

is

so long as to reach the midis

dle of the leg,

tied at the neck,

fringed around

the bottom, and fancifully painted, as high as the

knee.

Being very
stiff

loose,

it

is

girded around the

tassels*

waist with a

belt,

ornamented with

and fastened behind.

nected with
are

The arms

are covered as
riot

low as the wrists with sleeves, which are

the

con-

body garment.
side

These sleeves

sewed

up, as far as the

bend of the arm, hav;

ing the

seam the under

and extend to the

shoulders, becoming broader toward the upper end,

o that the corners hang

down

as

low

as the waist.

They

are connected together, and kept on, by a

cord, extending

from one to the other, across the

cap,

shoulders.
sists

The

when they have

one, con-

of a piece of cloth,

about two 4eet square,

doubled, and sewed up at one end, which forms an

enclosure for the head
chin.
;

and
falls
is

it is

tied under the

The bottom
is

of

it

down

the back, like

a cape, and in the centre,

tied to the belt.

This

cap

fancifully garnished with

quills.

ribbon, beads or
is

porcupine

The upper

garment,

a robe

ACCOUNT OF THE
t>r

INDIANS.

garment, similar to that worn by the men.

is

Their hair
tied behind

parted on the top of the head, and

or, al

some

times,

it

is

fastened in

large knots over the ears, and covered with beads

of

various

colours.

They

prefer

European

when they can furnished by their own

clothes,

obtain them, to the skins,

country.

they use bracelets,

For ornaments composed of brass, bone or

trinkets.
is

horn
the
ble,

and

rings,

and similar

Some

of

women

tattoo a line,

which

sometimes dou~
lip,

from the middle of the under

;

to the cen-

ter of the chin

and two other

lines,

extending

iVom^phe corners of the mouth,

ing from the
chin.

somewhat divergthe sides of the

other

line,

down

The

greater part of the Indians,

who make
cold water,

use of European cloths for their dress r frequently

cleanse them, by

washing them

in

without soap.
of making soap
laborious,

They do
;

not understand the art

and

if

they did, the process

is

so

that they would readily forego the use

little

of this article, which they consider of very

value.

When

their clothing consists of leather,

it,

they occasionally cleanse

with a ball of white earth.
the

by rubbing

it

over
is

This earth, which

and thus preserve

same which we use

mould
41

for white washing,

they
i*

moisten, and
for use.

into balls,

322

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

subsist

The Indians who and who kill but few

habitations with

principally

on

fish,

large

animals, cover their

some kind of bark, or with mats

But those who
subsist on the
skins,
in

made
and

of rushes.

buffaloe,

moose and red deer, dress their

cover their tents

Journal.

with them, as described they are

or
;

my
sit

When

in their tents

they

or

lie

down on
also,

buffaloe

bear skins, which

constitute,

their beds

and when

in

bed,

they cover themselves with a buffaloe

skin, dress-

ed with

the

hair

on, or

with a blanket.
lie on,

But
ex-

many
little

of the Carriers, have nothing to

fir

cepting the branches of the spruce

tred^with
;

or nothing with which to cover themselves

aftd their huts constitute

but a poor shelter.

freezing,
in

To

keep themselves from

keeping up a coj^tant

cold

winter

nights, theiya&re, they are

fire,

under the necessity of

to

which they are com-

pelled to turn their sides, alternately; and they

are, at such times, anlj| to procure but little sleep.

Indeed, almost any other people,

dition,

in

the

same conhave

would freeze

to death.

But

as they

always been accustomed

living,

to

such a

mode of

they seem not at

all

aware of the misery

of their condition.

The
dians

Sauteux, Muscagoes.

many

of the Chipethe In-

wyans and some of the Crees,

in short all

who

live

about large lakes, subsist principal-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

ly

323
lines,

on

fish,

which they take with hooks and

and when
of
the

or in nets.

Their hooks they frequently obtain

this
is

from us
a

impracticable, they make

them, by inserting a piece of bone obliquely into

piece

wood,

and
to

reducing
a
point.

the

upper
lines to-

end
are

of

bone

Their
tied

either

single

thongs

of leather,

gether, or they are braided of the bark of the

willow.

The

Assiniboins,

Rapid

Indians,

Black
in

feet Indians

and those Crees who remain

large

the

strong thick woods, or on the

plains, live

upon the

flesh

of the buffaloe, moose, reef deer,

ant^pe, bear, &c. which they either Jpoil or roast. Those of them who can obtain*#rass or copper or tin kettles from us, use them for bailing their food and hang them over the fire. Those who cannot obtain such kettles, use those which are made of bark. Although water might be made to boil in these bark kettles over the
;

fire,

yet they would not be durable

is

and there-

fore, this operation

more commonly performed,

by throwing
Indians,

into

them, heated stones.

Those

however, who have

only bark kettles,

generally roast their meat.

fixing

This they do, by

is

one end of a

stick, that

sharpened at both
distance from the

ends, into the ground, at a

fire,

little

with

its

top,

on which the
fire.

meat

is

fixed, in-

clining

towards the

On

this stick, the

meat

324
is-

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

turned,

occasionally

when one

part

becomes

sufficiently roasted.

The
those

Indians, in general, like to

have their food,

;

whether boiled or roasted, thoroughly done

but

who

inhabit the

plains,

frequently
fire,

make
I

their meals without the aid of

of particular

parts of the entrails of the bufFaloe, which

also,

have,

eaten raw, and have found to be very palata-

ble.

When
kill

there

is

no water to be found, they

at times

a bufFaloe, and drink his bloody or

the water which they find in his paunch.

The
is

paunch of a male
very

bufFaloe,

when

well cooked,

cjelicious food.
rr$*

The
it

Natives scarcely^ver
its

wash

but
it
;

boil

with much, of

dung, ad-

hexing to

and even then, the broth has an

excellent taste, to those

who

can forget, or from

habit pay no

regard to the filth,

which

settles, to

the thickness of two fingers, at the bottom of the

kettle.

Many

consider a broth*

made by means

of the dung of the cariboo and the hare to be a

dainty dish.

N;*

The Chipewyans
fish

can never
its

patiently see a

without
in

gouging out

eyes,

and

eating

raw state ; and they say, that they They, also, often make their meals are delicious. upon raw fish or meat, that is frozen and apa
;

them

pear to

relish

it

fully as well, as

when
fish

cooked.
that

The

Carriers,

when they take

have

ACCOUNT OP THE
roes in them, squeeze

INDIANS.

325

them, with their thumb

their natural
outlet,

and

finger,

through

into

into their mouths,

avidity.

and swallow them down, with

bury
in

They
filled

also

the
of

earth

large

boxes,

with the

roes

salmon,

where
lit-

they are suffered to remain,

tle putrified,

until

they are a

when

tliey

take them out, and eat

them, either cooked or raw;

to relish

and they appear

fill

them

well,

though they
a

the air with

distance

a terrible round.

stench,

for

considerable
food,

A
oil

person

who

eats this

and rubs
in

salmon

on his han3s, can be smelt

warm

weather, to the distance of nearly a quarter of a

mile.

.fm

The

natives in a

j>art

of the country called

JVipigon, as well as in

some other parts of the

which they
eggs
find

country, are frequently obliged, by necessity, to

subsist on a kind of moss,

adher-

ing to the rocks, and which they denominate As-

se-ne

Wa-quon-uck, that

is,

of the

rock.

This moss when boiled with pimican, &c. dissolves

into a glutinous substance,

and

is

very
it is

palatable

but

when cooked
it

in

Water only,

far othertaste.

wise, as

then has an unpleasant, bitter

in
it
;

There
ed the

is

some nourishment
of

and

it

has sav-

life

many

of the Indians, as well as of

some of our voyagers.

On

tlje

Columbia River, there

is

a people

326

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS,

subsist,

who
if
it

during the greater part of the sumroots,

mer, on nothing but

and a kind of bread,

stuff,

may be

so called,

made of the mossy

fir tree.,

which grows on the spruce

substance contains a

and which
This

resembles the cobwebs, spun by spiders.

little

nourishment.
it

They
on

gather

it

from the

trees,

and lay

in

a heap,

which they sprinkle a

it,

little

water, and then leave

for
it

some
up

time, to

ferment

After that, they

roll

into balls, as large as a man's head,

in ovens,

and

bake them

well heated,

which are conThis

structed in the earth.

After having been baked

use.'
it

about an hour, they areitaken out for

substance
is

not very

palata^; and
It will,

contains

but

little

nourishment.

however, barely

support

life,

for a considerable time.

The
dog
;

Indians frequently

eat

the flesh of the

it,

and our Canadian voyagers are as fond of

I

as of any other meat.

have frequently eaten of

them myself; and have found them as palatable as a young pig, and much of the same flavour. Trfese dogs are small and in shape, very much
;

resemble the wolf.

ferent
taste
5

The

large dogs are of a dif-

breed, and their flesh always has a rank

but

this

is

never the case with the small

kind.

Perhaps

cannot more properly, than

all

in this

connexion, state, that

the Indians,

when they

ACCOUNT 6P THE

INDIANS.

327
of which

look in each others heads, and find

lice,

they have a plenty, both there and on their bodies,

crush them between their teeth, and frequent-

ly

swallow them.
bitten them,

The
custom

reason which they give

is,

for this nauseous

first

that, as the lice

have
in-

they are only retaliating the

jury upon them.

As the

Indians use no salt

is

in

the preservation

of their meat, the lean part

cut into thin slices,

in

and hung up
and the
it

in their tents,

and dried
;

the smoke,

fat

is

melted down

and

in this situation,
fat,

will

keep

for years.
joints

They make marrow

and then skim
eat

by cutting the

of the bones,

which they
off the

boil for a considerable time,

top,

which

is

excellent

to
in

with their dried

is

meat.

They find
is

a root

the plains, that

in

near-

ly a foot long,

and two or three inches

circum-

ference, which
like a turnip,
it

shaped

like a carrot,
fine,

and tastes

which they pound

This,

and then dry

is

in

the sun.

when

boiled in fat broth,

one

of their most dainty dishes, at their feasts.

The

ordinary drink of the Indians

is

the brotk of

flesh or fish, or only water.

The

Indians on the east side of the

fine,

Rocky
dry

Mountain, pound choke cherries

and

tjiem in the sun, which are palatable, either eaten

alone, or boiled in broth.

berry, about the, size of a

They have also a small common currant, shaped

328
like

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS*

an egg, which
I I

have called,

in

my
in

Journal*,

shad berries, as
ted
in

have heard them so denominathe sun,

or mix

New

England, which they dry

and either

boil
.

them

in

broth*
in

them with
But

pounded meat and

manner,
order

fat,

making pimican.

the Carriers prepare these berries in a different

in to

preserve them.

They make
fir

a kind of tub, which will contain twenty or thirty

gallons,

of the bark of the spruce

tree.

Into the bottom of this tub they put about a peck

of these berries, and upon the top of

that are nearly red hot
;

them

stones,

they then put another

layer of berries, and upon these, a layer of stones,

and so on
er
it

until

the tub
it

is full.

They then
will

cov-

up, and let

remain

in

that situation for

about

five or six hours,

when they

have be-

come
out,

perfectly cooked.

They

are then taken

and crushed between the hands, and spread

and, while they are drying,

oh splinters of wood, tied together for the purpose, over a slow fire
;

the juice which ran out while they were cooking

in

the tub,

is

rubbed over them.

After two or

three days drying, they will be in a condition to

be kept for several years.

table, especially

They

are very pala-

are when mixed with them. The above described methojj of cooking berries, is far better than doing them

a few whortleberries

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

in brass or

329

copper

kettles, as I

have proved by

repeated experiment.

The

Carriers cut off the heads of salmon, and

into

throw them

the

lake,

where they permit

at least until they them to remain a month, become putrified. They then take them out, and put them into a trough, made of bark, filled

or

with

water.

Into

this

trough they put a

suffi-

ciency of heated stones, to

for a time,

make
the

the water boil

oil

which

will

cause

to
to

come out
the top

of the heads of the salmon, and

of the water.
bottles

rise
off,

This they skim

of salmon skins
Its
;

and put into

it

made

and they eat

with their berries.

disagreeable
ing
it
;

smell

however

is

very

and no people would think of eat-

excepting the Carriers.

Indians are not regular in their meals
will eat a little, half a

The
and they
day,
if

dozen times

in

they have food at hand.

;

But they are

subsist
little

not great eaters

and they often

time,

for

great length

of

upon a very
in a

food.

When

they choose, however, and

feasts,

particular

manner, sometimes at
an incredible quantity.

they

will

gorge down

ly excepting the
CFhey
will

They do not drink largeCarriers, who live upon dry fish.

sometimes swallow, at one draught,

three pints, or two quarts.

When

they can pro-

cure food that

is

palatable, they will eat in the

42

330

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

same proportion.

No
is

favour which can

be be-

stowed upon them

so gratefully received, as

the means of making a good meal.

From

the month of June, until the latter end

all

of September,

animals have but

little

fur

and

therefore, at this season, the

Indians do not hunt

them much.

The

greater part of the Indians, on

the east side of the the beaver in steel

Rocky Mountain, now take traps, which we sell them

fire

frequently they shoot them, with

arms;

and

sometimes they make holes through their lodges

or huts, and then spear them.
in

Otters they take

the same

manner

as

beavers.

The
fishers,

lynx or
martins,

cat,

they take

in snares.
in

Foxes,

minks, &c. they take

a spring trap.
chiefly
for

The
their

large
flesh

animals

are

hunted

and are therefore

killed,

principally

when they
in the

are the fattest, which most of

fall,

them are

and some of them

in

the winter.

Buffaloes,

moose, red deers, bears, &c. are generally .killed

with

fire

arms.

The

Indians,

however,
killing the

in

the

plains,
loe.

have other methods of

buffa-

es,

Sometimes the young men mount their horsand pursue them and bring them down with

their

bows and

arrows, which

they find
fire

more*

convenient for this

purpose

than

arms, as

they can more easily take

an arrow from the

ACCOUNT OF THE
quiver, than load
tion.

INDIANS.

331
a
situa-

musket,
is

in

such

The

following,

another method of takNatives look

out
for a

ing the buffaloe.

The

small grove of trees, surrounded by a plain.

this

In

grove they make a yard, by

falling small trees,

and interweaving them with brush;

leave an opening into
it

and

they

about twenty feet broad.

They
tance.

select, for

this

purpose, a rising piece of

ground, that the yard

may

not be seen at a

dis-

From each

side of this opening, they fix

two ranges of

stakes, at about an angle of ninety

degrees from each other, extending about

miles into the plains.
feet

two

These stakes

rise

about four

above the ground, and are about forty feet

apart.

On

the top of each stake, they put buf-

faloe dung, or tie a wisp of hay.

After
is

this

pre-

paration,

when

a
off,

herd of buffaloes

seen at no

great distance

thirty or forty or

more young
and
little

men mount
to
this difficulty
is

their racers,

which are well trained

;

business,

and surround them

in

found

bringing them, within the

Indians

range of the

stakes.

are

stationed by

the side of some of these stakes, to

in
all

keep them

motion, so that the

to

buffaloes

suppose

them
for-

be human beings.
sides of the

The horsemen press

lolling

ward by the
until,

herd and behind them,

at length,

with their tongues

from

their mouths, they are brought to the entrance of

332
the yard
;

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

and through

it

they rush without perin,

ceiving their danger, until they are shut

to the

number, oftentimes, of two or three hundred.

When
say,

they find themselves enclosed, the Indians

I

and

have frequently seen myself, that they

in

begin to walk around the outside of the yard,

the direction of the
sun,

apparent revolution of the

from east to west.

Before any of them are

killed,

the Indians go into the tent of the chief to

smoke, which they denominate making the buffaloe smoke.

kill

They who

then go out to the yard, and

;

the buffaloes with bows and arrows

will

and there

are Indians,

send an
kill,

arrow, entirely

through one buffaloe, and

second.

at the

same time, a
killed

When

the

buffaloes
all

are

all

and

cut up, the tongues of

tent of the chief;

of

them

are taken to the

and with a part of them he

makes

a feast, and the remainder he allows his

neighbours to keep.

The meat and

not,

skins

are

then distributed among the

people of the whole

camp

and whether equally or

no one

will

complain.

Should any be displeased with their

share, they will party.

decamp, and go and

join

another

The

Natives generally cut up the body of an

it

animal into eleven pieces, to prepare

for trans-

portation to their tents, or to our forts.

These
of
ribs,

pieces are the four limbs, the

two

sides

mm*

*z

V
ACCOUNT OF THE
INDIANS.

333

the two sinews on each side of the back bone, the

brisket, the croup,

and the back bone.

Besides

these, they save and use the

tongue, heart, liver,

entrails.
is

paunch, and some part of the

The
on
it

head,

they carry home, the meat which

eat
;

they

and the brains they rub over the

it.

skin, in

dressing
off

After they
skin,

have taken
it

all

the meat

from the
it

they stretch

on a frame, and
all

suffer
hair,
skin,
in

to

dry.

They
it
;

next scrape off

the

and rub the brains of the animal over the

and then smoke

after

which they soak

then take
it

it

water, for about a day.

as

They
$

out

and wring it

dry as possible

and a

woman
it

takes
fire,

hold of each end, and they hold

frequently pulling
is
it

over a

and changing
this
it
fit

its sides, until it

is

perfectly dry.

After
it

smoked with
This
it

rotten
last

wood, and

becomes
is

for use.

part of the

process,
it

to prevent

from

becoming hard after

has been wet.

The

Sauteux,

who remain
well.

about the Lake of

the Woods,
potatoes,

now

begin to plant Indian corn and

which grow

The Mandans,
soil,

also,

along the Missouri River, cultivate the

and

produce Indian corn, beans, pumpkins, tobacco, &c.

As they do not understand curing

it is

their tobacco,

of

little

use

to them.

The

Sauteux,

who

live

back from Mackana,

&c.

raise large quantities of

Indian corn, beans,

And

also

make much

334
/

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

m,
,

sugar,
to the

from the maple

tree,

which they dispose of

for cloth

North West Company,

and other
scarce,

articles.

As soon

as

the animals become

that are hunted for their furs, the Natives must

till

the ground for subsistence, or live upon

exists, in

fish.

This state of things already

many

places

and must,

in all probability,

be extended.
the largest
fish,
fish,

The
spears.

Indians sometimes take

such as sturgeon, trout, and some white

with

At other

times,

they take their

fish in

drag-nets or scoop-nets.

But the more general

way

of taking

them

is

the following.
sixty

They have
meshes, of

nets, of

from twenty

to

fathoms, in length,
to

which contain from twelve

from two to seven inches
in

forty

depth.
side
it,

Upon

lines,

which are
site to

fixed

upon each

of the net, for

the purpose of strengthening

they fasten, oppo-

each other, a small stone and a wooden

in

buoy, once

about the distance of two fathoms.

The

net

is

carefully

thrown

into

the

water, and

by means of the stones on the one

buoys on the other,
full
it

side,

and the
to
its

becomes extended,
by stones
and

breadth.

The

ends of the net, which forms a

;

semicircle, are secured

it is

visited

every day, and taken out of the water ever second

day, to be

cleaned and dried.

This
is

is

a very

easy operation,

when

the

water

not frozen.

But the

ice

which, at some places, acquires the

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

335

thickness of five feet, renders the setting and taking out of the nets, a

work of greater

difficulty.

They

then cut holes, at the distance of thirty feet

to the

from each other,

one of which,
ally
is

whole length of the

net,

larger than the rest, being generis

about four feet square, and

holes,
is

called the basin.

suit-

Through these
the water.

by means of poles of a
placed
in

able length, the net

and drawn out of

The
that
I

Indians,

throughout

the

whole country

have

visited,

have no other animals domesand the dog.

ticated, excepting the horse

latter,

they have several different species.

Of the Some

of them are very large and strong, and are em-

ployed

in

carrying burdens

while others, which

are small, assist their masters in the chace.

Indians are very fond of their hunting dogs.

All

people on the west side of the

The Rocky Mountain,

and they
will dis-

appear to have the same affection for them, that

they have for their children
course with them, as
if
;

they were rational beings.

;

They frequently call them their sons or daughters and when describing an Indian, they will speak of
him
as father of a particular

dog which belongs

it is

to him.

When

these dogs die,

not unusual

to see their masters or mistresses place

a pile of wood, and burn them

in

them on the same man-

ner as they do the dead bodies of their relations;

336

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

and they appear to lament their deaths, by crying

and howling,
kindred.
ever,
fully as

much

as if
this

they were their

affection,

Nothwithstanding

how-

when they have

nothing else with which to

will sell

purchase articles which they want, they

their dogs.

Those

Indians,

who

live in

woody

country,

make no
place.

use of horses, but employ their large dogs,

to assist in carrying their baggage from place to

The

load

is

placed near their shoulders,

and some of these dogs, which are accustomed

to
it,

will carry sixty or

seventy pounds weight,

thirty miles in a

the distance of twenty five or

day.

The
who

Assiniboins,

Rapid

Indians,
all

Black feet

and Mandans, together with

inhabit

the other Indians

plain

country,

always

perform
any

their journies on horse back.

Indeed they seldom

tents, in

go even a short distance from their

other manner.

They have some

them a great
seventy

excellent horses,

which
hours

will

carry

distance in a day.
miles,
is

They sometimes go
;

in

twelve

but forty or forty five miles

common
ropes,
buf-

day's ride.

They do

not often use bridles, but

guide their horses with halters,

made of

which are manufactured from the hair of the

faloe,
t

which are very strong

and durable.

On

the back of the horse, they put a dressed buffaloe

ACCOUNT OF THE
skin,

INDIANS.

337

on the top of which, they place a pad, from

stirrups,

which are suspended

made of wood, and

testicles of the

covered with the skin of the

faloe.

buf-

Some
horses
;

of these

Indians

have forty or

fifty

and they attach a great value to those,

that are distinguished for their speed.

Whenev-

er an Assiniboin sells a racer, he separates from

him,

in a

most affectionate manner.

Immediately

before delivering him to the purchaser, he steps

up

to

the favourite animal, and whispers in his

ear, telling

him

not

to

be cast

down

or angry

with
for,

his

master for disposing of him to another,

not

he adds, " you shall

are.
I

remain long where

but before

you

sold

you

to obtain certain Articles,

that I stood in great need of;

nights

many
you

have passed, And, unless

will

come and

steal

away."

great vigilance on the part

fulfils his

of the purchaser prevent, he generally

promise

for they are the greatest horse thieves,

perhaps upon the face of the earth.

never
the
ing
falls

As there
plains,
in

horses

much snow on have not much

;

the

large

difficulty

find-

a sufficiency of grass, on

which

to subsist,
in

during the whole year

and they are generally

good order.

The
rivers,

Indians

who
43

reside about large lakes and

in

voyage about

the

summer

season, in ca-

338
noes,

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

made
;

of the bark of the birch or spruce

in

fir

tree

and two persons

miles in a day.
is

one of them,

will easily

go

fifty

The

paddles, with which

five feet

the cano,e

moved, are
is

about

long,

half of which length,

a blade,

four inches wide.

;

The
ty

Indians are good

walkers
in a

and

will

at

sometimes, travel forty miles

day, with a pret-

heavy load upon their backs.

In the winter season,

the

Indians

use snow

shoes

and

it

would be impossible

to travel with-

out them.
ent shapes
;

They

are constructed in several differis

but the following

the most

common

form.

They

take a piece of wood,

it

and with a
about two
sticks are

crooked knife, work

down,

until

it is

inches wide, and an inch thick.

These

fastened together at one end,

the

which constitutes

hind

part

they are then bent so as to be

in

about a foot asunder

nearly

the middle, and to

come

together forward.
fill

these sticks, they

of deer skin.
point before,

The space between up with a lace work of thongs Other snow shoes come quite to a
;

where they are turned up

fall

the side

pieces are from eighteen to

apart, and, in the
is

twenty four inches

of the year,

when

the

snow
inner
is

light,

they are seven feet

is

in length.

The

side

piece

nearly straight, and the outside

arching, and the extremities behind,

come togethis

er in a point.

The

space between them,

work-

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

339
surprising

ed

as

above mentioned.*
Indians,

It

is

little

that the
will

who
in

are accustomed to them,

a day on good snow shoes,

walk farther

than they could do on bare ground.

But

it

is

very fatiguing for those to walk on them,

not accustomed to do
it.

who

are

The

Indians are train-

ed to

this

exercise

from the age of four years.

age, they will

Even

at that early

go

five

or six

miles in a day upon them, through the whole winter, as often as the Indians

decamp, which,

at

somein

times,

is

every day, and at

days.
Indians,

other times, once

eight or ten

who

live

upon the
scarce,

chace,

in

a country

where animals are

cannot remain long in a place;

and those who

hunt the beaver and some other animals, must

continually shift their residence.

Few
They
is

of the Indians live in a state of celibacy.

generally

marry when they are between

eighteen and twenty five years of age.

Polygamy

allowed among

all

the

tribes

but only a few

persons
each.

among them, have more than one wife, I knew, however, a chief, among the
Indians,

Beaver

who had

eleven wives, and more

than forty children.

Their courtship and marriage are conducted

in

the following manner.

young man who

is

desirous of taking a wife, looks around

among

the

young women of

his

acquaintance, to find one that

ill--'


340
ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.
pleases his fancy.
to her he

Having thus singled out one, makes known his intentions and if his
;

addresses are favourably received, he

visits her, in

the night season, by crawling softly into the tent

where she

lodges, and

where she
night,

is

expecting him,

after the other inhabitants of the lodge are asleep.

Here they
the family,

pass the

by conversing

in

whisper, lest they should be heard by the rest of

occupy the same apar tment. As the morning light approaches, he withdraws in the same silent manner, in which he came. These noctural visits are kept up for several
all

who

months

or, until

the young couple think that they

in

should be happy,

passing their days

together.

The
er,

girl

then proposes the subject to her mothin

and she converses with the father

If

regard

to the intended match.

he give
in

his consent,

and the mother agree with him

will direct

opinion, she

her daughter to invite her suitor to

It
is

come and remain with them.

that they cohabit
kills,
*

now

only,

and whatever the young man

it

he brings home and presents

In this

to the father

of his wife.
or

way he

lives,

during a

year

more,, without
call his

having any property that he

After
his wife has

can

own.

a child, she

calls

her husband by no other name but the father

of her son or daughter.

ty to leave the

And now he

is

at liber-

tent of his wife's

father, if he

ACCOUNT OP THE
pleases.

INDIANS.

341

All the Indians on the east side of the

rocky

mountain,

think

it

very

indecent
to,

for a

father or mother in law, to speak

or look in
;

the face of a son or daughter

in

law

and they
in-

never do either unless they are very much

toxicated.

The

reason which they give for this

the subject
is,

custom,
peculiar

when questioned on

the

intercourse which this

person has had

with their child.

When
connected

two young persons of

for

different sexes,

have an affection
in

each other, and wish to be

parents of

marriage, to which the

the girl will not

consent, they frequently leave

the tents of their parents, and go and join some

distant

band of

Indians.

They

are,

however,

of-

ten pursued, by the parents of the young

woman

and should he overtake them, he

daughter back, and keep a
conduct, to prevent
all

will

bring his

strict

watch over her

intercourse

between her

and her

suitor.

All neighbouring tribes frequently

intermarry.

Chastity

in

young women,

is

considered as a

virtue, by the Indians, generally, on the east side

of the

Rocky Mountain
tribes

and many mothers,

particular, that they

among some

are

so

never allow their daughters,

a certain age, to

who have arrived at go from home alone, but always

with

send some

person

them,

as

a protector.

342

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

is

Chastity in married persons

universally regardit

ed as a virtue

and the want of

in

woman,

is

frequently the cause of her being rejected by her

husband.

separation, also, at

some

times, takes

place, on account of the slothfulness of the

wothe

man.

When
if

such an event does occur,

all

children,

small,

remain with their mother, buf

should they have sons, advanced beyond the period of childhood, they remain with their father.

Their separations, however, are seldom

ly

lasting

and after a few days absence, the parties general-

have an

inclination to

return

to

each other.
in

These separations commonly take place

ence to the
sessing
will of the

obedi-

husband, only because, pos-

greater physical strength, he has more

to drive his wife

power
him

from him, or to retain her

with him, against her choice, than'she has to treat

in a similar

manner.

The
titude,

Indian

women

sit

down

in

a decent at-

placing

their knees close to

each other.

They

are very particular, also, in regard to their

illness.

behaviour, during their periodical

They
little

then leave the tents where their families reside,

and go and put up temporary ones, at a

distance from them,

where they remain during the continuance of their illness. While they are
there,, the

men

will not

deign to hold

any con-

versation with

them

nor will thev suffer them

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

to

343
they expect

make

use of any article, which

to

want the use

of afterwards.

This custom

prevails

among

all the tribes,

with

whom

have

been acquainted.

The

first

time that the young-

women, among the Sauteux, Crees and

other tribes, experience this
to the woods,
illness,

some
in-

they run

and remain there for several days.

They then
proceed

return to their tents, and immediately

to cut

and

pile
;

up a cord of wood,
which
person
all

as

high as their heads

of the
it

after

the
it,

women
the

camp come and scramble

the
is

for

and carry
cut

away, saying, that

who

wood,

now

woman

like themselves,

and that

they hope she will prove to be industrious.

The men among

the

Indians,

are very subIn their

fits

ject to be jealous of their wives.

of

jealousy, they often cut off

all

the hair from the

off

heads of their wives, and, not unfrequently, cut

their noses, also
;

and should they not

at hand,

in

the mowill

ment of passion have a knife

it

they

snap

off at

one

bite, with' their teeth.

But such a
satisfi;

circumstance does not ordinarily produce a separation

between

them.
a

The man
supposed

is

ed

in thus

revenging
the

injury

and

having destroyed

beauty of his

wife,

he

concludes that he has secured her against

ture solicitations to offend.

all fu-

344

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

All the Indians consider

our

in

every

respect,

to

women men
;

as far inferi-

and,

among
as

many

tribes,

they treat their wives

much

they

do their dogs.
the

The men

chastise

their wives,
;

frequently, with an axe, or with a large club

in

and
they

presence of their husbands, the

in

women
;

dare not look a person

the face.

When

decamp, the women transport the baggage

and

when they

stop, while the

men

are quietly smok-

ing their pipes, the

women

are required to pitch

the tents, and to set the

encampment

in

order.

Among

the Sauteux, Crees, Muscagoes

and As-

women are treated with more gentleness and respect. The husband shares the labour with his wife and the women govern
siniboins,

however, the

every thing

in their tents, so that

the husband pretrifling

sumes not

to dispose of the

most

article,

without the consent of his wife.

the husband
kills

Among them
brings
it

animals and generally

wife
fat.

the meat to his tent, where his

for drying,

prepares

and melts down the

;

She, also

generally does the cooking

out the
occasional

not,

however, withhusband.
of the

assistance
in
is

of her

He
in

assists
;

her, likewise,

taking care
too

children

and,

if his

wife

marching from one place of

much loaded, encampment to

another, he will take one of the small children

in

addition, to the load

already on his

own

back.

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

345

But the

Indians,

who

inhabit the plains, never car-

ry any thing on their backs, as they are well supplied with horses.

The
children.
es,

following ceremonies attetod the birth of

When
in

the time of a

woman approachlittle

she erects a small hut, at a

distance from

the tent

which she usually

lives;

and

at the

time of labour, she sends an invitation to several

neighbouring women, to come to her assistance.

As soon
ter, that
in it

as the child

is

born,

it

is

washed

in wai-

had been previously prepared, by

boiling

a sweet scented root

The mother
As soon
of the

then oras
it is

ders a feast to be
ready,

prepared.

the most aged

little

woman

company,
it
;

takes a
fire,

out of the dish, and throws

into the

and then helps the whole company

not pas-

sing

by the mother of the

child,

able to join

them

in

the repast.

who is generally The old lady of

to the

ceremonies,

now

offers

up a short prayer
life,

Creator, or the Master of him,

in

as

they denominate

behalf of the
is,

new born
a son,

babe, the substance

spared, and that

of which
\
it

that
;

its life

may be

may grow
lad.

and

if

become a handsome

young

A woman

after child birth, remains in the sep-

arate dwelling

which she had erected,

for

the

space of about thirty days, during which time, no

man

would, on any account, enter the

place
.

of

44

346

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

her residence.

At the

close

of this period, she

returns to her tent, and the father of the child

prepares a feast to which

invited,

all

their neighbours are

is,

the

object of which as they say,

arrival of the little stranger,

to

welcome the
far country.

from a

Should a male child

live,

the parents dry the

kills,

meat of the
ly

first

animal that he

and careful-

keep

it,

until

they can collect a sufficiency of

a
feast.

something

to

make

They

then invite

their friends, of both sexes, to

come and partake

;

of the fruits of the hunt of their son

call
it,

for,

they so

because the animal which he

his

killed,

they

mix with what

spectable
dish,

parents have procured.

feast,

Be-

fore any taste of the

one of the most relittle

;

men

present, takes a
it

out of the

and throws

into the

fire

and then be-

seeches the Great Spirit, to be kind to the lad,

and

to allow

him
;

to

grow

up, and to

become a

skilful

hunter

and to cause that when he goes to

war, he

may

not behave like an old

woman, but
pain in

may

return with the scalps of his enemies.

Indian
child birth,

women appear than women

to suffer less
in

civilized

countries.

They
in

rarely ever take any medicine, at the time

of delivery, though they do, at times, drink water,

which the

rattle

of a rattle-snake has been

boiled.

In the season of labour, they place their

ACCOUNT OF THE
knees upon the

INDIANS.

347

floor or ground,

and lean forward

It is

over something, raised about two feet high.

seldom more than a quarter or a half an hour,

before the child
is

born;

and, in a few days the

mother
Indian
riod.

is

as active

and vigorous as ever.

The

women

rarely ever die, at this critical pe-

Among

the natives, those persons

who

are in

any way deformed, or have any blemish about

them, receive their name from
this

circumstance

while the others are named, after some beast or

bird.

No
if

Indian

will

inform another, even

;

if

requested, what his

will,

asked, give

own name is though he the name of other Indians.

I

Of

the reason of this reserve

is
;

am

ignorant.

It

not often that an

and, indeed,
to
it is

Indian

chastises

his

children

not necessary, for they

affection

appear,

in general,

have much

and

respect for their parents, and are therefore ready

to

obey them.

father npver interferes in the

bringing

up of

his

daughter;
of

but

leaves

her
a

wholly to the

care

her

mother.

When

son becomes of a suitable

age,

his father

takes

ferent
is

him with him in hunting, and learns him the difmodes of taking animals. A son until he
married, considers himself as under his father's
;

controul
listen to

and even after

that,

he

will generally

any advice, which his father

may

give

348
to him.

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

The aged

are

commonly treated with

much

respect, which

they consider, themselves

as entitled to claim.

Should a young man behave

will

disrespectfully

toward an old man, the aged

grey

refer
if

him

to his

hoary head, and demand of him,

to
insult

he be not ashamed

his

hairs.

In short, the aged of both sexes

are generally

treated with kindness

and are not suffered to

it is

want any thing which they need, and which

in

the

power of

their relations to

procure

for

them.

The

superior influence of the

white people,

where they have, for a considerable time, resided among the Indians, has very much diminished
their respect for their

own chiefs; though there are some among them, who bear this title. The and they, feasts are commonly made by the chiefs also, generally make the harangues, in behalf of Their war their bands, when they visit our forts.
;

chiefs

have considerable influence over the young

men,

who accompany them,

theft
is

in their

war

parties.

Murder and
and the former

are considered as crimes;

always punished with death, unis

less the murderer makes his escape, which

gen-

erally the case.

Theft,

also,

is

frequently pun-

ished in a similar manner.

Sometimes, the party

offended will be appeased, by the restoration of

the stolen property, or of an equivalent.

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

Generosity
are
is

349

among the
in

Indian virtues.

They

more ready,

proportion to their means, to

assist

a neighbour

who may

be

in

want, than the

inhabitants, generally, of civilized countries.

An

Indian rarely
part of
it

kills

an animal, without sending a

if

to

neighbour,

he has one near

him.

The
sists
sils

private property

of the

Indians,

con-

of horses, dogs, tents, guns

that belong to their
tents.

and

the

uten-

Some

of these

things, a little before

their
;

death, they bequeath

all

to

some of

their friends

but

of their clothing,

guns,

powder

horns, &c.

are buried with them.

in or

Indeed, the Indians suffer nothing to remain

about the tent of a person

who

has died, which

he was accustomed to make use of while he was

alive.

They

consider it* a kind of sacrilege to

is

mention the name of a person after he

dead;
as mis-

and they never speak of him as dead, but

erable, because, they say,

he has taken a long

his

journey alone, to the country, to which

deceas-

ed relations had gone before him.

Whenever any one

his family,

is

very
all

sick,

the whole of

and frequently

of his relations, will

give
devil

some part of

their clothing in sacrifice to the

or evil spirit,
illness.

w ho, they
T

suppose,

is

the

cause of his
'

They, however, pray

to

the

Good

Spirit, or

Master of life, for

his recovery, as

350

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

they believe that he has the power,

to exercise
it,

if

he choose

of restoring him to health, notwith-

standing the design which the evil spirit has, of

taking his
life

from him.

All the Indians on the east side of the

Rocky
is

Mountain, bury their dead.

After a person

dead, some of his deceased relatives cut off a

lock of his hair, which they carefully lay up
;

and

they sometimes preserve such relicks, for a great

number of years.
ble

Preparatory to
in as

its

interment,
possi-

they dress the corpse

;

gay a manner as

and then wrap a blanket, over the whole.

or pin this blanket
it

But they never sew

lest

together,
off

he should be unable to shake

with
If
it

ease,
it

when he

arrives

in

the

other world.

were

fastened, they say,

he

might

lie

in

for several
his

days, aftei^his arrival in the land

relations, before

of

departed

any one would meet

sides

with, and release him.

The bottom and The

it,

of

the grave, which

is

two or three

feet deep,

are
is

lined with the branches of trees.

corpse

then deposited

in

it

and along with

a pipe and

tobacco, a dish or small kettle, an awl and sinews

to repair his shoes, to support

and a

sufficiency of provisions,
until

him

for a

few days,

he

shall

ar-

rive in the land of plenty.

They
fill

then cover the

body with branches, and

earth
;

up the grave with

they place bark, to

and on the top of

it,

ACCOUNT OF THE
protect
it

INDIANS.

351

from the rain or snow.

for

They then
eight or ten

clear off the bushes and grass,

feet around the grave

and every spring, the

ground
after.

is

thus renewedly cleared, for several years

set

About the grave, they on which they hang strips of

ing,

up

few stakes

cloth,

tobacco, &c.

While the ceremonies of interment are performthe relatives and friends of the deceased,
;

make

the most dismal moans and cries

and, to convince

others of their grief, and, as they say, to ease their

wounded

hearts,

some of them cut the

hair of

their heads short, or

make

incisions in their faces*

and arms, while others, to

whom

the deceased
in

was more dear,

grief,

will seize

an arrow,

an agony of

and run

it

through the fleshy part of their

thighs.

The
flicted

Indians generally appear to be

loss

more

af-

with the

of an infant, helpless child,

than of a person that has arrived to mature age

for the latter, they say, can
in

provide for himself,

the country whither he has gone, while the

is

former,

too young to

The men appear

to

depend upon himself. be ashamed to manifest

any one, however dear
but the

their grief at the loss of

he might have been to them;

give
full

vent to the feelings of nature.

women The fond

mother,
out
all

when she

looses a

young
;

child, will pull

the hair of her head

cut her face, arms,

f
352
and
legs,

ACCOUNT OP THE
in

INDIANS*

a shocking manner

burn

all

her

clothes, excepting a

few

rags,

which she has upon

wretched, as she
the weather
is

her; and, to render herself

expresses
it,

as

as

her

child,

when
in

stormy, she will stand, for hours at a time, in the

open
this.

air,

and

pitifully

moan,

such language as

"

How
to

wretched are you,

my

child, to

be

torn from your friends while so young and helpless

;

and
will

be sent alone, into a strange country

give you bread

Who

now

when you
it

are hun-

gry, and water,

when you
lie
I

are thirsty, and

make
rains

a or

covering for you to

under when

snows
dear
to

that

could once more press you,

my
use

child, to

me
!"

are

all
life,

my my
in a

troubled breast
medicines, since

Of what

they could not

longer with

save your
us

and keep you a

little

Then,

rage of passion and of grief, she

will

rush into her tent, and seize

it

her medicine

bag, and throw

into the fire.

All the

Indian tribes are frequently at war

;

with each other

will

and at some times, two tribes

league together, against one tribe or more.

reside in a Avoody country,

Those who
frequently
those

do not as

wage war
live
in

against their neighbours, as

who

the large plains.

The

latter,

generally engage in war, either offensive or defensive, at

the opening of every spring.

The sum-

mer

is

the

only season

of military operations,

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

;

353

among the Indians though they frequently employ much time in the winter, in providing bows,
arrows, guns and ammunition, with reference to
a campaign, the ensuing season.
hostilities,
ter,

Preparatory to
of win-

the chiefs, toward the close

send young
the

to

whole

their territory,
cified

men with presents of tobacco, who are scattered over inviting them to meet, at a spetribe,
in

place,

early
this

the

spring,

in

general

council.

At

meeting, chiefs are appointed to

conduct the war.

up, and those
in

The war

pipe

is

then lighted

who

are willing to

the campaign, smoke the pipe.

;

become soldiers None are comyoung men

to

pelled to enlist

but, to excite in the

a martial
his

spirit,

and

followers, the

them war chief makes

to stimulate

become
ha-

a long

rangue, in which he relates the injuries, that they

have received from their enemies.

appeal
to their

By

a strong

savage feelings, he labours to conit

;

vince them, that

will

be sweet and manly, to re-

venge these

insults

and to return from the war,

with the scalps of their enemies, and with their

wives, and children, and horses, &c.

A
songs.

feast

is

then made, of which

all

partake?
sing

after which, the

young men dance, and

war
the

After these ceremonies are ended,

chief or chiefs set out on the

as

war

expedition, with
;

many

as choose

to

follow

them

and

as

they

45

354

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

leave the camp, the

war party

join in a

war

song.

After their departure, the old

men and women

after

and children pursue their usual occupations, to obtain

a subsistence.

Frequently,

the

war

party has been gone several days, some of the

young men return,

All
selves

to join their relations or lovers.

the punishment to which they subject themis,

to

be called old women, by which

;

is

meant, cowards

a charge

which touches an
four

In-

dian to the quick.

War
hundred
their

parties

frequently travel

or

five

miles, before they

reach the territory of

enemies.

On

their way, they subsist

kill,

upon

animals which they

and

fish

which they take,

supplies are

from the lakes and

rivers.

These

often very inadequate, and they suffer greatly

by

hunger.

Having arrived near the place where they expect

to
find

their enemies, the

chiefs send out

scouting parties, in
tion,
it

order to ascertain their posiT

numbers and any other circumstances w hich may be necessary for them to know, in order to

form a plan for taking them by surprise.

The

Indians never attack their enemies in the open

day

but

fall

upon them when

in

asleep, near the

approach of the
If they

light of the morning.

succeed

conquering their enemies,

as

is

generally the case, since those

who make

the

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS*

attack have greatly the advantage, thy
rible

355

make

ter-

havoc among the men

but they labour to

children alive,

take as

many

of their

women and
torture

as they possibly can, in order to carry

as slaves.

them home

They never
to

these captives;

but

keep them

perform the menial service

the
families of

about their tents, or dispose of them to others.

Sometimes they are adopted

have

into

their enemies, in the place of children that

lost
;

they
the

and then they are treated with

all

tenderness and affection, which would be

exercis-

ed toward a near

relation.

On

their return

from the expedition, the war

party approach the tents of their band, with their

faces blackened, and singing the
relations immediately

war

song.

Their

make
in

a feast, at which the

warriours dance, with the scalps of their enemies

which they have taken,

relating the

their

hands

and re-

count the history of the expedition, particularly

manner

in

which they

fell

upon their

enemies, the number of

men

that they killed, and

of slaves, horses, &c. which

they have taken.

booty,

They then
tribe,

distribute a part of the

among
of the

the aged chiefs, and most respectable

men

who remained
;

at

home.

The young men,

may

who

deserted the party, are treated with con-

tempt

and the young women, whose charms

356

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

have attracted them back, frequently compose

songs of derision, in regard to their behaviour.

The
various.

occasions

of

war among the

Indians are

Sometimes a person in one tribe has been murdered by a person belonging to another
tribe
;

sometimes the members of one tribe have

;

hunted on the lands of another

horses have been stolen.

and sometimes
Indians,
to

The

who

in-

habit the large plains,

who always go
attack
their

war on

horseback,

frequently

neighbours,

merely
It is

to obtain,

by

this
also,

means, horses and slaves.

for

not

uncommon,

the

Natives,

when

they lose a respected chief, or any other person

generally beloved, either by an ordinary or a violent death, to

form a war party, for the purpose

the same,
not.

of killing one person or more, of a neighbouring

tribe
;

and the case

is

whether

this

tribe be at
ter,

peace with them, or

This slaugh-

they say, enables them to calm their grief,

sets their hearts at rest, as blood has thus

and

been offered
friend.

to

the

manes of

their

departed

person appointed to head a war party,

is

called a chief, or

O-ke-maw.

He

must have given

order that
to
fill

distinguished proof of his bravery, prudence and

cunning, in former

war

expeditions,

in

he should be considered
post.

as qualified

this

Great

skill, in

coming upon an enemy by

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

357

surprise, as on this circumstance the success of an

attack depends,

is

considered as the
It
is

first

requisite

in a military leader.

considered necessary,

also, that

he should be well acquainted with the

situation of the territories of the

enemy, and with

provisions

the course leading to them, in which

can most

easily be obtained.

war party some;

times consists of several hundreds

it

but frequently

does not amount to more

than twenty.
his

The

war chief has no authority over

but his advice
ed.
It is
is

followers,

generally respected and follow-

not often that two tribes, which have been

in the habit of carrying

er,

on w ar against each oth7

formally enter into terms of peace.

When
cir-

such an event does take place, the following

cumstances attend
several young

it.

One

chief or more, and

men

of his tribe, go with their pipe

5

of peace, to find their enemies

rival

and on their

ar-

among them, they express Upon this, council with them.

chief,

a desire to hold a
all

the elders of
;

the tribe visited, are called together

and the

who

is

an ambassadour for peace, makes

known

his business,
it

and

strives to convince his enlive

emies, that

will

be for their advantage to

on amicable terms with his tribe.

Should the terms of peace be agreed

parties

on, the

smoke

in

each other's pipes, after which a

358
feast
is

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS'.

prepared

and when that

is

is

concluded,

the remainder of the night

dancing.

spent

in singing

and

But should the embassy be unsuccessful,

with his attendants, will return, and
of his proceedings to his

the

chief,

make report
bear arms,
possible,

own

tribe

and those of them

will

who

are able and

willing to

immediately, though as secretly as

commence

making preparations

for a

campaign, the ensuing spring.

arrows, which the Indians use

The
in

points of the

attacking their
a poisonous liquid
roots.

enemies, are sometimes dipped

in

which they extract from pertain

All the Indians spend

much

of their time in
inhabitants of the

some kind of amusement.

plains, generally,

The

and of

New

Caledonia, live

in

large

bands

and are much more' addicted to

amusements, than the inhabitants of woody countries

who

are

more

scattered.
to itself;

Every

tribe

has

amusements peculiar

but some plays are

common to all, who reside on the east side of the Rocky Mountain. The Assiniboins, as well as all the other Indians in the plains, spend much of
their time

about their horses, and are fond of

trying their speed.

Their youth, from the age

shooting arrows

of four or five to that of eighteen or twenty years,

pass nearly half of their time

at

in

a mark; and

to

render

this

employment more

interesting,

they always have something at stake.

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

359

which

is

generally nothing more than an arrow,

or something of small value.

From

so early and

constant a practice, they become, at length, the

best marksmen, perhaps,
in

the world.

Many

of

them, at the distance of eight or ten rods,

will

throw an arrow with such

of three times, to hit a
lar.

precision, as

twice out

mark

of the size of a dolin

The young men

summer

often

amuse themselves,
of
ball.

the

season, by a

game

What
game,
is

is

denominated by the Indians, the dish

interest,

played with peculiar

by

all

the tribes with

which

have been acquainted.

Eight or ten
tons, or

little

pieces of bones, or so

many

but-

some

similar things,

have a certain numsides, so

ber of marks upon their different

that

they bear some resemblance to dice.

These are

put into a dish, which two persons shake alternately,

and turn

its

contents on the ground.

The

marks on the

sides of the

bones, &c. which are

;

uppermost, are

then counted

and,

in

a given

number of throws, he who can count the greatest number of marks, wins whatever is at stake for
;

they never play, without something.

The Sauteux and Crees

ing at draughts
ful, at this
;

are very fond of playskil-

and they are considerably

game.

They

have,

also,

many other

plays and diversions, which

enable them to pass

away the greater part of

their leisure time, gaily.

360

ACCOUNT OF THE
Indians, generally,

INDIANS.

The

appear cheerful and condifficulty or

tented,

when oppressed by no present

;

danger

for

they take

little

thought for the things

of the morrow.

The
time
;

Indians do not often dance, in the day

but they frequently spend their long win-

ter evenings, in this

amusement, accompanied by

singing

and they appear to enjoy themselves

well, on such occasions, as civilized peo-

fully as

ple do, at their All

feasts,

more

refined assemblies.

the Natives

are

accustomed

to

on various occasions, and particularly

or

make when
to be
fif-

any uncommon
transacted.
ty tents
is

important business
a

is

When

band of from

thirty to

collected, scarcely a

day passes withof the

out an entertainment,

made by some one

number.

When
invites

a chief proposes to

make
of

a feast, he

such guests as he pleases, by sending to

quills,

them
knife.

or

small pieces

wood.

Every

person,

who The

attends, brings with

him a dish and a

and a person

chief generally receives his guests,

;

standing,

but oftentimes, sitting

who

assists

him, seats them, according to their

ages or respectability, the most honourable place

being next to the chief.

vision of

After having

made
a

a di-

what had been provided,

parts, equal to the

into

num-

ber of

number of persons

ACCOUNT OF THE
present, the chief
a
lights
;

INDIANS.

361

his

pipe,

and

smokes

few

whiffs

himself

and he then presents the

if

stem toward the sun, as

ary, and
to the

offering

it

to that lumin-

earth, and then to his deceased

it

relations, pointing

toward the

fire.
it

These

cer-

emonies being over, he presents

successively to
in
is

each person present, who smokes a few whiffs

his

turn.

small quantity of meat

it

or drink

then sacrificed, by throwing

the earth, and the

into the fire, or

on

provisions

are served round.

While the company are partaking of them, the

chief sings, and accompanies his song, by the

che-

che-quy or tambourin.
his portion the

The
is

person

who devours
is

soonest,

considered as deserving
all

applause.

If any cannot eat

that

set before

him, as custom does not allow him to leave any

thing,

he endeavours, by the promise of a reward

his
fre-

of

tobacco or ammunition, to prevail upon

friends to assist him.

These

substitutes,

it is

quently

difficult to

procure, as the food provided

is

on these occasions,
is

generally

necessary to satisfy the

their feasts, a

much more than At calls of nature.

rational

some of
vails,

more

custom pre-

of permitting the guests to carry

away what

they do not wish to eat, of their portions.

The
ani-

meat which
is

is

generally eaten on these occasions,

;

that of the beaver

and the bones of

that

this

mal,

which

are

extremely hard,

remain

46

362

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

dogs,

after the feast, are burned, lest the

by

at-

tempting to break them, should injure their teeth.

The

public feasts are conducted in the

same
and
in

manner, but with additional ceremony.

chiefs unite in preparing a suitable

Several

place,

collecting

sufficient

provisions,

for

the

accom-

modation of a numerous assemblage.

vide
a
place,

To

pro-

poles are fixed obliquely into the

ground, enclosing a sufficient space to hold several

hundred, and at times, nearly a thousand people.

On

these poles, skins are

feet,

laid,

at

the height of

twelve or fifteen
court,

thus forming a spacious

provisions
it

or tent.

The

consist

both of

dried and of fresh meat, as

ticable to

would not be pracquantity of fresh

prepare a

sufficient

meat, for such a multitude, which, however, consists

only of men.

At these

feasts,

the guests* con-

verse only on elevated topics, such as the public

interests of the tribe,

and the noble exploits of

their progenitors, that they

may

infuse

publick

and an heroic
ing always

spirit, into their

young men.

Dancat

forms
;

the

concluding ceremony,

these festivals

and the women, who

are not per-

mitted to enter the place where they are celebrated, dance and sing around them, often keeping time with the music within.

All the different tribes of Indians, on the east

side of the

Rocky Mountain,

believe in the ex-

ACCOUNT OF THE
istence

INDIANS.

363

of one

Supreme Being, the creator and

governour of the world,

ascribe every perfection.

whom
;

they

call

Kitch-e-

mon-e-too, or the Great Spirit

and to him they

consider him as

They

the authour of
inflict

all

good, and as too

his
;

benevolent to

any
little

evil

upon

creatures.

They render
suppli-

him
ings,

worship

but

occasionally

cate of him success in their important undertak-

and very rarely, render him some

sacrific-

es, consisting

of some part of their property.

the existence of a bad

They,
spirit,

also, believe in

whom

they

call

Much-e-mon-e-too, to

whom

they ascribe great power, and who, they believe,

is

the authour of
afflicted.

all

the evils, by which mankind

are

To

him, therefore, in order to obevils

tain deliverance

from

which they either exconsider him as ever

perience or fear, they offer many, and sometimes

expensive, sacrifices.

They

employed,
ty
;

in plotting against their

peace and safe-

and they hope, by such means, to appease

his anger.

They,

also, believe

that there

are

good and

bad

spirits, of an inferiour order,

who

are superi-

our to

men

in

the scale

of existence, and
action, in

who
they

have allotted spheres of

mankind.
over
all

which
or

are contributing to the happiness

misery of
preside

These
the

beings

they suppose

extraordinary productions

of

na-

364

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

rivers

ture, such as large lakes,

and mountains? and stones, that

size,

and spacious caverns, &c. and likewise over the

beasts, birds, fishes, vegetables,

exceed the
they

rest of their species in

quality.

or

in

any other remarkable

On

this account,

pay to

all

these

objects,

some kind of
ex-

adoration.

They,
istence.

also,

believe

in

a future state of
in

Those who, while

life, will,

the present world,

have, according to their ideas of right and wrong,

led a good
at death,

immediately enter

on another and a better state of existence, where

they
will
will

meet

their departed relatives and friends,

who
ture

ate manner, to their

welcome them in the most affectionhappy abode. In the futhey believe

that

world,

they

shall

pos-

sess bodies

more

beautiful and healthy and vig;

orous, than those which they animated on earth

and that they
they were
in
in

shall

be much more happy, than

life,

the present
will reside,

since the country

all

which they
or

abounds with

kinds

of game, which they will be able to take, with

little

no trouble, and supplies every

gratifi-

cation, in

which they now

delight, in perfection

and without end.

But those who lead wicked

they suppose
will,

lives

on

earth,
into

at death,

be

conveyed
or

the middle of an

extensive

swamp

marsh.

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

365
length of
alone,
in

where they
time,

will,

for
to

considerable

be

doomed
greatly,

wander

about

search of their deceased friends.

suffered

After having
cold,
at

from
will,

hunger and
their departed

they
the

suppose that they

at length, arrive

pleasant habitation of

relatives,

and participate
forever.

with

them,

in

all

its

delights

The
sist

religious observances of the Indians, con-

of prayers, of feasts, and of a sacrifice of some of their property.

part

Their

prayers,

which
always

are offered only on special

occasions, are

addressed to the Supreme Being, or Master of

Life.

Their
serious

religious festivals are attended with

much
tents,

ceremony.

They commence
its

with
con-

opening the medicine bag, and displaying

and with smoking out of the sacred stem.

a

Almost every male Indian has

which
is

medicine bag,
is

commonly made of

leather, and

about

two

feet long,

and a foot broad.

The

following

articles are generally contained in this bag.

The

principal
to

in

importance

is

a small

image, carved

resemble a bird, beast or human being, which

they seem to consider as the peculiar residence

of their tutelary
fully
spirit.

This image, they care-

wrap
is

in

down, around which a piece of birch

and the whole and blue
is

bark

tied,

enclosed in several

folds of red

cloth.

Every Indian ap-

366

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

pears to have a reverence for the

Image,

in

his

own medicine bag; but

spectfully of one,

will

often speak disre-

belonging to
is

another

person.
its

The

next article in the bag,

is

the

war cap of

owner, which

decorated with the plumes of

scarce birds, and with the claws of the beaver,

eagle, &c.
It

has also a

quill or feather,

suspend-

ed from
slain in

it,

for

every enemy,

whom

its

owner has

battle.

The

other contents of the bag

are a piece of tobacco, and

substances,

some roots and other

to

which are supposed

possess valua-

ble

medicinal qualities.
is

To
tied,

the outside of the

bag, the sacred stem

which
is

is

generally

about

six feet long.

This stem

used only for

smoking on sacred occasions.

is

This medicine bag

distance from the

generally hung, in fair weather, on a limb of a

tree, or

on a stake, at a

little

tent
if

and an Indian would severely beat his wife,

it.

she should presume to touch

This

is

the

only article which the

selves,

men

invariably carry them-

when

they

are

decamping.
it,

Many
also,

of

them pretend,
their

that by examining

they can

foretel future events.

The
;

women,

have

own medicine bags

but they are not con-

sidered as of a sacred character, and merely contain their

own

articles of medicine.
is

Smoking

out

of the sacred stem,

performed with numerous

ACCOUNT OF THE
ceremonies,
ing.

INDIANS.

367

many

of which are probably unmean-

make a promise to the Master of Life, that they will make a feast every spring during a certain number of successive years,
Indians
if

Some

their

lives

are spared

and they religiously

fulfil

such vows.
of their feasts are designed to propitiate
spirit,

Some
the evil

as

are nearly

all

the

sacrifices

which they make of

in

their property.

Sometimes

an open enclosure, on the bank of a river or

lake, they

make

large sacrifices of their property.

They choose a conspicuous situation, who pass by, may be induced to make
ings.

that

those

their offeroffer-

If any of the tribe

that
is

makes these

ings, or

even a stranger who

be
in

passing these pla-

ces, should

urgent want of any thing which

is

has been deposited as an offering, he take

it,

allowed to

by replacing

it

with another article which

;

he can spare, though of inferiour value

take wantonly any of those devoted

but to
is

articles,

considered as sacrilege.

There are
some

also certain large

rocks and caves,

at

which they never pass without leaving

trifling articles
;

them

for they

suppose that they

spirits.

are the habitations of some good or evil

Indeed they think that almost every lake, river

368
and

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

mountain

has

its

tutelary

spirit,

whom
an

they attempt to propitiate, by some offering.

All the Natives suppose

the earth to be

extensive plain, and that

that the sun and
tinually revolve
to be a large

it is

always at rest

and

moon and many of

it.

the stars con-

around

The

sun, they believe

body of

(ire.

To many

of the stars
star,

they have given names, such as the morning

the

evening

star,

and the seven stars

and by

their position in the heavens, they are able to de-

termine the time of night.

their course by
son.

They,

also,

direct

them

in travelling, in

the night sea-

The

stars

which they have named, they

in

perceive change their position continually

the

heavens; and they believe

the

that,

like the sun

and

moon, they revolve around the earth.

Of

the motion of the other stars, they take no notice

and consider them

is

as stationary.

The

following

the

manner

in

which they divide a day and

:

night, or

twenty four hours

from the

first

appeartill

ance of day light to sunrise, from this time

noon, from noon to sunset, from this to midnight,

and from midnight to day break.

rant of the

They

are ignoin

number of

days,

which there are

a year

but reckon thirteen moons, to complete

the four seasons.

The

following

are

the

names of the four

Winter, A-pe-pook

seasons, in the

Cree tongue.

ACCOUNT OF THE
or

INDIANS.,

369
Se-gum-

Pepoon
;

Spring,

Me-is-ka-mick or
;

uck

Summer, Nic-pin

Autumn, Tuck-wa-gin.

The

names, which they give to the moons that

compose the year, are descriptive of the several

seasons, and in Cree, are the following:

May,
June,

I-ich e Pes-im,

Frog Moon.
Pes-im,

O-pin-a-wa

we

the

Moon

in

which birds begin

July,

to lay their eggs.

O-pus-ko

we
we

Pes-im,

The Moon when

The Mooon when

birds cast their feathers.

August, O-pa-ko

Pes-im,
fly.

the young birds begin to

September, Wa-was-kis o Pes-im, The moon

when

the moose cast their horns; or A-pin-nas-ko o

Pes-im,

The Moon when

the leaves

fall off

from

the trees.

October,
rutting

O-no-chi-hit-to-wa o

Pes-im,

The.

Moon; or O-ke-wa-ow o Pes-im, The Moon

frost

when
Moon.

the fowls go to the south.

November, Ay-e-coop-ay o Pes-im, Hoar

Kus-kut-te-no o Pes-im, Ice Moon.

December,
Whirlwind Moon.

Pa-watch-e-can-a-nas o

Pes-im.

January, Kush-a-pa-was-ti-ca-num o Pes-im, Ex-

treme cold Moon.

February, Kee-chay o Pes-im,

The Moon when

small birds begin to chirp or sing; or Kich^ee q

Pes-im, Big, or old Moon:

47

370

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

March, Me-ke-su o Pes-im, Eagle Moon.

April, Nis-ka o Pes-im,

Goose Moon,

as at this

season, these animals return from the south.

The

Indians

compute the distance from one

place to another, by the

number of

nights

which

they have passed,

in

performing a journey from

one to the other.

All

the

Natives employ hieroglyphicks, for

the

purpose of conveying information to those

are distant from
is

who

them

and

this

mode of comPortions

munication,

often of great service to them, as

the following circumstances will evince.

of each tribe, generally assemble at certain places,

every year.
in different

When

they separate, they pro;

ceed

directions

and at every place

fix

where they severally encamp, they

of
sticks
in

number
the

the

ground, leaning towards

plaj;e

where they next intend

have been successful
or

to pitch their tents.

in

If they

the chace, they

'

paint

draw on

a piece of bark, the

number
killed,

and kinds of animals which they

may have

and hang the bark upon a stake.

When

Indians

who have been

animals,
fall

unsuccessful

in

regard

to killing

upon these

notices,

they derive im-

portant advantages from them, as they are thus

guided to the place, where they

obtain a supply of food.

may probably
in

Indeed, without some

such regulation, the Natives would often be

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

great danger of perishing with hunger.

371

On

the

piece of bark, containing information respecting

their past success,

and their future course, they

of their

leave,

also,

the date

encampment, by
-

painting the animal, or whatever else

gives

it

is

that

name

to the then present

Moon, or months

and by describing the figure of the

particular time.

Moon
this

at that

And

so correct

is

mode

of

conveying intelligence, that a person accustomed

to
it,

will generally ascertain, within

from twelve

to

twenty four hours, the time designed to be

specified.

The

Indians

possess

a quick perception, and

strong curiosity, and a very retentive

memory
to

and every circumstance which occurs, and the various objects

which present themselves

their

view, are noticed and recollected.

fore, at the expiration

And, there-

of twenty years after they

have passed only once through a country, to the

distance of several

hundred
in

miles,

they they

will

re-

turn

by the same way

hills, prairies,

which

came.

Mountains,

lakes, valleys,

remarka-

ble rocks, &c.

cially notice,

are the objects which they espe-

and the situation of which, they trea-

sure

up

in their

memories

enabled to follow a former track.

Indian,

and by these they are Almost any

is

who

has passed once through a country,

so correct a chart of
ft,

able to

draw

with a piece

372

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

of charcoal, on bark, that an entire stranger, by

its

assistance,

would be able

to direct

his

course
dis-

to a particular place, several

tant,

hundred miles
regard to the

without varying a league from his object.

The

Natives are never at a

loss in

dif-

ferent points of the compass, particularly in a

woody

country, as they well know, that on the north side

of the trees,

more moss

is

found, than on the oth-

er sides.

The
as priest,

priest

among the

Indians,

is

also a physi-

cian and a conjurer or magician.

When

he acts

he presides at feasts and funerals.

In

the capacity of physician,

when
in

sent for, he visits

the sick and wounded, and prescribes medicines

for their healing,
in

and directs

their application,

doing which he goes through with

many
is

cere-

monies, with great gravity.

ill,

If the patient

very

he attends him at least every morning, and

sings

and shakes

his

che-che-quy, for an hour or

two, over his head, making an unpleasant noise,

which,
person.

it

would seem, must do injury

to the

sick

These

Indian

physicians do at
cures.

times,

however,

perform

distinguished

Their

medicines consist of the bark of particular trees,

of roots and of herbs, used at some times in their

simple state, and at others

in a

compounded form.

For wounds and

of roots.

sores, they use, chiefly, decoctions

is

The

doctor

always well paid for his

ACCOUNT OF THE
services,

INDIANS.

373

and

his profession

is

the

most lucrative
acts as con-

of any
jurer,

among the

Indians.

When he

he shuts himself up

in a small cabin,

where

he

is

completely concealed from the view, and

silent,

where he remains
utes.

during ten or fifteen min-

He

then begins to sing, and to beat his

so,

drum, and continues to do

hour.

for

about half an

And

then, if any one has a question to prois

pose respecting futurity, he

ready to answer

it,

which, however, he will not do, without a

trifling
to*

recompense.
take place,

It

is

not

uncommon

for events
;

much
is

as these conjurers predict

but

whether

this

to

be attributed to their natural

sagacity, or to accident, or to other circumstances,

I

pretend not to determine.

person

who

is
is

desirous of becoming a phypublickly initiated, with

sician or conjurer,

much

mysterious ceremony.
are the
following.

Among these ceremonies The old physicians prepare

;

an entertainment for a certain number of people

and

for the

young candidate, they have a peculiar

boiled

mess, which consists of a bitch,

with her

young

in her.

part of this animal, he must eat

it

and they suppose that

possesses the

magical

power, of inspiring him with a knowledge of the

medicinal qualities
roots, &c.

of

all

kinds of barks, herbs 7

to

woman, who wishes

become a

midwife, must not only eat a part of the bitch,

374
but must,

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

also,

partake of her puppies, and drink

;

of the broth in which they were boiled

this

and by

means, she gains, as

is

supposed,

all

the knowlart.

edge requisite to the practice of

this difficult
fail of'

The

Indian physicians never

leaving in

the place

where they

collect the roots, herbs, &c.

which they use

side over

as medicines,

some

trifling

article,

as a recompense

to the guardian spirits, that

pre-

these substances, for what

they have

taken.

An

omission of this would, in their appreif

hension, destroy most,

their medicines.

not

all

the efficacy of

The
their
effect

Natives, in general, are very credulous

believe that

and superstitious.

They own medicines, when

almost any thing.

many of
however,

properly applied, will

They

think,

that

are

we possess some, which, for certain purposes, much more efficacious than their own. All
of having a numerous
and, therefore, those,

Indians are very desirous

offspring
;

whose wives are

barren, will frequently apply to us for such a med-

them to become the mothers of children.The young women, also, make use of a certain powder, of their own composition, for the
icine as will cause

purpose of engaging or increasing the affections of

their favourites, for them.

By

throwing

this

even
it

upon a stranger, who

will

is

passing, they believe,

cause him to be

in

love with them.

In a

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

375

word, they ascribe a power to

that,

this

medicine, like

which more refined imaginations have attributed to the arrows of Cupid. The young women, also, employ many other magical arts, to accomplish the

same

object.

A woman who
is

is

fond of
little

her husband, and

who supposes
as she

that he has

affection for her, will rub a certain medicine in the

palm of her hand,

ter

going to bed

and

af-

he
;

falls

asleep, she will lay her

hand on

his

heart

and the medicine, she

uniting

thinks, possesses the

power of
ciprocal.

their hearts

together, and
to

of

causing their affection, ever afterward,

.

be re-

The
and
is

Indians have no professional mechanicks

among them.

Every man

is

his

own

artificer,

able to construct the few domestick man-

ufactured articles, which he uses.

Some

persons

among them, more

frequently applied

ingenious than the rest, are

to,

to

execute
skill,

some things

which require considerable

a stock to a gun
tion,
;

such as putting

but they take no compensa-

for such a service.

Their bows and arrows

In order to

are neatly constructed.

make

their

arrows round and straight and smooth, after they

have been reduced nearly to their proper

with a knife,
they use
the
following

size

method.

They
ness,

take two pieces of wood, of suitable thick-

which are seVeral inches

long,

and cut

in

376

ACCOUNT OP THE INDIANS.

each of them a straight channel, of the same

size,

and of such a shape, that, when

channel, they spread glue, and
;

borfi are

placed together, they form a circular hole.

this

Over

upon that

they sprinkle sand

tion, until
is

and they repeat the operafile

is

a complete
in

formed.

The arrow
backward
its

then placed

the channel, between the two

is it
is

pieces of wood, and

briskly passed

and forward,
size.

until

reduced

to

proper
stone.
is cir-

Their pipes are

and

made
it is flat,

of

a
is

soft

The
er.

bowl, into which the tobacco

at the

put,

cular,

bottom

and much broadin

These pipes are frequently carved,

a curiits

ous manner.

The

pipe

is

connected with

stem by a

chain, generally

made of
from
us,

brass wire,

which the Indians obtain

and which

hangs loosely from one to the other.

is

The stem
and as their
the

of wood, such as has a small pith

sacred stems are about six feet in length,

manner
to

in

which they extract this pith, deserves

be mentioned.

They
;

use, for

this purpose,

piece of seasoned hard wood.

a point, at one end
this, it is

It is
little

sharpened to
distance from

and at a

reduced to a smaller
it,

size,

by a perpen-

dicular cut around

barb
it

is

formed.
is

by which a kind of head or By pushing this in and drawing

out, the pith

gradually extracted.
to this barb,
is

The wood
reduced to

which forms the handle

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

a very small size, as fast only as
is

377
required by

the length of the hole.

struct,

Wooden dishes, they conwith crooked knives. The women manifest

work which they
with porcupine
is

much

ingenuity and taste, in the

quills.

execute,

The

colour of
;

these quills

various, beautiful
is

and durable

and

the art of dying them,

practised only by females.

To

colour black, they

make

use of a chocolate
fine,

coloured stone, which they burn, and pound

and put
nut tree.

into a vessel, with the

bark of the hazelfilled

The
it

vessel

is

then
put,

with water,
is

and

into

the quills are

fire,

and the vessel

liquor in

placed over a small

where the

it is

permitted to simmer, for two or three

hours.

The

quills are

then taken out, and put on a board,

fire.

to dry,

before a gentle

After they

have

been dried and rubbed over with bear's oil, they become of a beautiful shining black, and are fit
for use.

To

dye red or yellow, they make use of

certain roots, and the moss

which they

find,

on a

species of the

fir

tree.

These are

put, together

with the

quills,

into

a vessel, filled with water,

made
&c.
in

acid,
it.

by

boiling currants or gooseberries,

The
is

vessel
to

is

then covered

tight,
fire,

and
for

the liquid

made

simmer over the

for use.

three or four hours, after which the

quills

are

taken out and dried, and are

fit

Feath-

48

378
ers,

ACCOUNT OF THE
they also dye

INDIANS.

in a similar

manner, and these

colours never fade.

Many

of the Indians, particularly those on the

west side of the Rocky Mountain,

procured steels from
ing
fire,

who have
end
of

not

us, for

the

purpose of

strik-

produce

it,

by placing one
another
it

of a

small

dry stick
;

against
rolling
-friction,

piece

dry
their

wood

and by

briskly

between

two hands, the

nicates
fire
it.

in

a short time

commuplaced

to

dry hay or touchwood,

around

Among

the

Indians,

there

are

poets,

who
the

are also musicians.

The

person
it

who composes
in
;

a song, does
air

it

by singing
shall

over alone,

which he designs

accompany

it

and

he repeats both

this exercise, until

he has committed

sufficiently to

memory.
to

After that, he fre-

quently

teaches

it

others.

Songs are

fre-

quently composed for particular

as feasts, &c.

occasions, such

Among
the

the

Carriers, there

are

often several competitors for this

honour;
is

and
with

he

who composes

best song,

rewarded,

while the unsuccessful

derision.
rally love

poets

are

treated

The

subjects of their songs are gene-

and war, though they have some which

obscene.

are ludicrous and

variety of songs
;

and

They have a great have known an Indian

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

379

who

could sing at least two hundred, and each

its

song had

peculiar

air.

Female poets are not

of the

common among them.

Some

women, how-

ever, are excellent singers.

No two, of whom I have

them
is

the fifteen tribes of Indians, with

been acquainted, speak precisely

;

the same language

only,

but the languages of nine of

different.

seem

to

be radically

There
true of

only a variation of dialect

Sauteux and Muscagoes.

among The same

the Crees,
is

the Chipewyans, Beaver Indians, Sicaunies, Tacullies

and Nateotetains.

The

language spoken
is

by the Sauteux, Crees and Muscagoes

the most copious and manly;
the Assiniboins,
gant.
is

by

far

but that used by

ele-

the

most harmonious and

Every
try
;

tribe has
this
is

its

particular tract

of counseveral

and

divided again,

among the
as

families,

which compose the

tribe.

Rivers, lakes
;

and mountains, serve them

family are
lines

boundaries

and

the limits of the territory which belongs to each

as

w eli known by
T

the

tribe,

as

the

which separate farms are, by the farmers, in

the civilized world.

The

Indians

who

reside in

the large plains,

ritory
;

make no subdivisions
which

of their ter-

for the wealth of their country consists of

exist in plenty,

buffaloes and wolves,

every

380

ACCOUNT OF THE

INDIANS.

where among them.

with the
inhabitants

But the case

of

is

otherwise,
countries.
to

the

woody

These people have nothing with which

mals, which are valuable for their fur

pur-

chase their necessaries, excepting the skins of ani;

and should

they destroy

all

these animals

in

one season, they

would cut

off their

means of

subsistence.

pru-

dent Indian, whose lands are not well stocked with

animals, kills only

what are absolutely necessary

he cannot well dispense

to procure such articles as

with.

The
of the

foregoing account of the Natives,

having

a principal reference to the tribes on the east side

Rocky Mountain, it may be proper, in concluding it, to make a few general remarks on
the country which they inhabit.

That part of it which lies between the 44th and the 52d degrees of north latitude, is a plain
or prairie country, almost wholly destitute of timber, of any kind.
It
is,

in

general, sufficiently dry

;

for any kind of cultivation

grass,

and

is

covered with
the height of

which commonly grows

six
it

to

from

inches to a foot, though in some marshy

is

places

much

higher.

This grass furnishes

food for innumerable herds of buffaloes, which are

constantly roving about, from place
to

place, fol-

lowed by thousands of wolves, and many grey and

9

ACCOUNT OF THE INDIANS.

381

black bears, that are always on the watch, for fa-

vourable opportunities to

fall

upon and devour

them.

The

grey bear, on account of his strength

and

ferocity,

may

well be denominated the mon;

arch of the forest

and should he

at

any time

find

an hundred wolves or more, feeding on

the car-

case of the buffaloe, the sight of him would cause

them

all

to retire, with all the

humility and sub-

mission of conscious weakness, and he would be

permitted to make
quietness.

his meal, at his leisure

and

in

The

country lying between the 52d and the

70th degree of north latitude,

may be denominatelevated parts, how-

ed mountainous.
extent, and

Between

its

ever, there are valleys and plains, of considerable

which are covered with timber, of a

small growth,
is

more than one fourth part of which

fir.

the spruce

The

other kinds of timber are

r

aspin, poplar, birch,

hemlock, spruce, cedar, willow ,

of this country, in
its

and a

little pine.
is

Much

less

elevated parts,
stones,

covered with large rocks and

coat of earth upon them,
I

w ith
T

so thin a

that

it

could not be cultivated.

if

am

of opinion,

however, that one fourth,

the whole

not one third part, of

of this great extent of country, might

be cultivated to advantage.
is

The
many

soil, in
is

general,

tolerably

good

and, in

places,

not ex-

382
ceeded
I think

ACCOUNT OF THE
in richness,
it

INDIANS.

by any part of North America,

probable, that as

much
is

as

one sixth part

of the whole of this country,

ter.

covered with wa-

The

great

number of

large lakes, which are

scattered over

it,

and of noble streams, which pass

water communication,
in al-

through

it,

afford a

most every direction.

As
it is

this

country

is

so extensive,
is

it is

natural to
all

suppose, that the climate

considerably cold.

various.

In

parts

In latitude 54 or 55 the
in

mercury, for several successive days,

of January,
zero.
is

the month

as

low

as

30 or 32 degrees below

There

are not, however,

more than ten or

twelve days, during a winter, that are so severely

cold.

The summers

are sufficiently

warm and

long, to bring

most kinds of grain and vegetables

Indian corn will never ripen far-

to perfection.

ther north, than about latitude 53.

The

following fact

may be

interesting to

some

persons, as perhaps no similar discovery has been

made, equally far north.

In the

summer of 1816

there was found, on the margin of a small stream

that falls into Peace River, in about the 56th de-

gree of north latitude, and the 118th of west longitude, a part of the thigh bone

of a
in

Mammoth,
length, and

which was about eighteen inches

which weighed twenty eight pounds.

During that

ACCOUNT OP THE

INDIANS.

383
in
all

summer, the waters rose very high,

streams
in that region
;

the

and when they subsided,

in.

the banks, in

many
I

places, fell

It

was

in

such
to

a place, that this bone was found.

It

was sent

Canada, and

believe, thence to England.

A SPECIMEN
OF THE

CREE OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE,

WHICH
IS

SPOKEN, BY AT LEAST THREE FOURTHS OF THE INDIANS OF

THE NORTH WEST COUNTRY, ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE

ROCKY MOUNTAIN,

Good

Spirit

Kitch-e mon-e-too

Evil Spirit

Mutch -e-mon-e- too

A- ye nu
Es-qui

Man Woman
Young man Young woman
Infant

Os-kin-e-gew
Os-kin-e-gis-qui

wa-sis

Head
Forehead

Is-te

gwen

Mis kaw-tick

Cheek
Chin
Hair

Mon-o-wy
Ta-lis-kun

Mis-teky-ah

Eye
Nose

Mis kee-sick
Mis-kee-won

49

386
Nostril
IVlOUlQ

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

i7-La\

-e-Lum

lvxec-iuuu
IVTnp-nif" jJlt ItXcc*

1 Oulll

Tongue
n ^r^ .,,1 jDeard
Brains
.bar

O-tay-e-nee

May-ist won
We-it-tip

Me-ta-wa-ki

JNeck
i nroat

Me-qui-yow
iVie

KOO-ld-gUIl

Arms nanas oi ungeis 1 numb

Nail

IVTic no.tnnn l*llS-ptJ"lUUIl

lVTf> -r h pp-rli pp uucc tucc luc

ItJLc

ac'tUcb "UliUU

lYii-f Uu Uvv/ If J lO V iis-spp

bide

USc-pc*Kl

M
Jtieiiy

is-nis-nuon no vjuvyAA lulu

|

Mnf-ti
7VT o _ mxr i TC~U W cLLll

I nigli

Doay Knee Leg

Heart
OplI
11

TITp-vow
TYTitrli-p-minn

Mis-kate

Me- sit Me-tay

UJ auui

Me-cha-chake
O-ta-we

r aiuci

Motner Son
Daughter
Brother (elder)
Sister (elder)

E-ka-we
E-cjus-sis

E-ta-nis

E-stays

E-miss
>

Brother (younger) Sister (younger)

E-shim

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Grand Father

E mo-shome
O-kome
O-ko-mis

Grand Mother
Uncle

Aunt

to-sis
\

Nephew
Niece
Father
in

E-to-sim

E-to-sim-es-qui

law

E-sis

Mother
Brother

in
in

law
law

E-se-goose
Ish-taw

Sister in law

E-tim
E-wich-i-wa-gun

Friend

Husband
Wife

Ne-na-bem
E-che-ma gun

Old man
Old woman
Chief

Kis-a-yenew
No-to-ca-ow

O-ke-mow
Ke-mo-tisk
Pis-is^cow-e-gun

Thief

Coat
Shirt

Pe-puck-e-wy-un
As-si-an

Breech cloth

Leggin
Garter

Me-tass
Sis-ca-pis-soon

Shoe

Mos-ca-sin
As-to-tin

Hat or cap
Handkerchief
Mittens (a pair)
Petticoat

Ta-bis-ka-gun
Us-tis-uck
Kis-ke-sa-ki

Bracelet

Us-Jon

Ring Ear knobs

Us-ton-is

Ta-be ta-soon
Seca-hoon

Comb

388
Needle

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

Sa bo-ne-gun
Is-te-goine Sa-bo-ne-gut:

Pin (headed needle)

Scissors

Pus co-ma-to-in

Blanket

Wa-bo

e-un

Gown
Horse
Buffaloe

Pa-to-nis

Mish-ta-tim

Moos-toosh
Se-goose

Ferret

Skunk Elk

Se-hawk
A-was-kis

Moose
Carriboo

Moose-wa
At-tick

Beaver
Wolverine
Squirrel

A-misk

Ke-qua a-kisk
An-nick-o-chass
At-cha-kass

Mink
Otter

Ne-kick

Wolf Hare
Martin

My-e-gun

Wa-poos
Wa-pis-ton

Bear
Fisher

Musk-quaw
O-chake
Pe-su

Lynx Hog
Porcupine

Ko-koosh

Ka-quaw
Muck-ca-sis

Fox Musk
Cat

rat

Wa-chesk
Ka-sha-kess

Mouse Meat

A-pe

co-sis

Wee-as
At-tim

Dog

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Bitch

389

Kis ke-sis

Eagle

Me-ke-su
See-sip

Duck Crow Swan

Pheasant
Bird

Ka ka ku
Wa-pis-see

0-kis*kew
Pe-a-sis

Outard

Nis-ka

White goose

Why-why
Kitch-a-ca-pi-sis

Grey goose
Partridge

Pe-yew
Se kip

Water hen
Pigeon

0- ma-mee

Egg
Pike

Wa-wa
1- e-ne

ke-no-see

Carp
White
Fish
fish

Na-ma-be
At-tick

cum-mick

Pickerel
(in general)

0- cow
Ke-no*see

Fish roes Fish scales

Wa-quock Wa-wa-ki
Na-ma-goose
1- ick

Trout
Frog-

Wasp
Turtle

A-mo
Mis-ca-nack

Snake
Rattle snake

Ke-na-bick
Si-si-qua ke~na-bick

Toad
Lizzard

Pe-pe-quot-ta4u
O-sick-ke-ask

Owl
Fire steel

Oh-ho
Pe-wa-bisk Ap-pit

390
Fire wood

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

Mis-tick

Cradle

Wa-wabis-soon
Ta-cuch-e-gun

Dagger Lance
Bow-

Se-ma-gun
A-cha-pee

Arrow Fish hook

At toos
Quas-qui-pitch-e-gur

Axe Hoe
Net
Tree (wood standing
upright)
|

Chee-ki-e-gun

Pe-mich-e chee-ki-e-gun
I-ap-pee
>
!

Mis-lick A-cne-mus-au

Paddle

A-buy
O-see

Canoe
Birch bark

Was-qui
Wy-a-kisk
Poos-sa-gun
Chak-is-say-e-gun

Bark

Touch wood

Gun
Leaf

flint

Grass
(of a tree)

Mos-ko-se-ah

Ne-pee-ah
I-os-cun-nuck

Raspberries
Strawberries

O-ta-me-nah
I-e-ne-me-nah

Whortleberries

Choke

berries

Tuck-quy-me-ne-na-nah
a-sa-bo-min-uck
Sho-min-is-uck

Gooseberries

Grapes
Ashes
Fire

Pe-co
Es-quit-tu

Current

Kis-se-che-win
Pow-is-tick

Rapid
Winter

Pe-poon

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Me-os-kum-ick

391

S iy m p v KJUIIILIICL
1 1

Ne-pin

Autumn
Tc Id

Tuck-wa-gin
Mp-nis-tick
Sa-ki-e-gun

mi

Lake
XVI V cl

Se-pee Pe-sim
(night sun).

Sun

Moon
Stars

Tip-is-co pe-sim

At-tack

Sky
Clouds

Kee-sick

M a-m a-m usk-wo w

Pe-is-su

Thunder
Lightning

Wa-was-sis-quit-a-pi-u

Rain

Ke-me-won
Mis-poon
Sa-sa-gun
1- was- tin

Snow
Hail

Calm

Dav

Iifht

Wa-hun
TCp-kp-i?! np

Morninp*

Day
Night

Noon
Sun

('half

thp flavl

A.nPtfJiv Ivp-QP-rniv

setting

Pung-kis-se-mo

Midnip-ht ITXlvllllc. Ill

A-hp-tow TMn-is-row

Snow
Ul 111
Ice

Ko-nah
1 1

C\ - t tt in c-WOIl
/"\

Mis-co-mi
Ya-ya-co-tin

Frost

Dew
Water World

A-co-sa-pa-ow

Ne-pee
Mis-si-wa-as-kee

392
Mountain

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

Wa chee
Kitch-e-ga-ming

Sea
Portage
Rivulet

O-ne-gape
Se-pe-sis

Sand
Earth

Ya-cow
As-kee
Ke-se-ta-ow, or Ke-jas-ta-ow

Heat

Tomorrow
Yesterday

Wa-bunk
O-ta-ca-sin

To day
Bone
Broth
Provision

A-nouch ke-se-cow
Ose-kun
Mich-e-ma-boi

Me-chim
We-ko-ka-ow
oil

Feast

Grease or

Pe-me
Ose-kun-e-pe-me

Marrow Marrow
Sinew

fat

We-ne
As-tis

Lodge Bed Door

Dish

or tent

Me-ke-wape
Ne-pa-win
Es-qua-tem

We-a-gun
ladle

Spoon or
Plate

A-me quen
Na-puck-e-a-gun

Knife

Mo-cum-mon
Chis-ti-e-gun

Fork
Kettle

As-kick
Se-sip as-kick

Tea kettle
Sack or bag

Mus-ca-moote
Mis-tick-o-wis

Trunk

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Table
Chair
Fort or house
Mit-te-sou-win-a-tic

393

Ta-e-tup-pe-win

Was-ky-e-gun
A-nas-cun

Floor

Window
Chimney Cupboard

Was-sa-ne-mon
Cou-ta-ra-bisk

A-cou-cha-gun

Keg
Sledge
Cincture or belt

Muck-kuck
Ta-bin-ask
Pa-qua-ta-hoon
As-se-gun

Socks
Cloth

Mon-ne-too-wa-gen
As-se-bape
Ap-pit
Ap-pe-can.

Thread

Smoking bag
Portage sling

Powder
Balls

Kus-ke-ta

Mo-sus-se-nu
Nis-cus-se-ne-uck

Shot

Powder horn
Shot bag

Pa-che-pa-quon
Pa-tus-se-non

Gun Ramrod

Paw-skis-se-gun
Se-se-quit-is-ca-we-a-guna-tick

Gun

case

As-pick-e-na-gun
Paw-skis-se-gun-is

Pistol

Steel trap

Pe-wa-bi$k-won-a-e-gun

Grave
Grave yard
Spirits

Ni-e-now
A-qua-os-cun
Squit-te-wa-bo

Wine
Milk

Sho-min-a-bo
To-toos-a-bo

50

394
Breasts

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

To-toos
To-toos-a-bo pe-me
Pa-qui-se-gun

Butter

Flour or bread
Indian corn

Mun-da-nin-uck

Potatoe

Aske-pwow-wa
O-te-se-kan

Turnip

Onion
Carrot

We-cha-kus-ka-se
Os-kate-ask

Tea

or medicine water

Mus-ca-kee-wa-bo
Se-se-bas-quit
t

Sugar

Wild

rice

Mus-co-se-me-nah

Glass or mirror

Wa-bim-oon
Kitch-e-o-ki-mow
Se-ma-gun-is

General or great chief

Soldier

Home
Iron

E-ke-nake
Pe-wa-bisk
So-ne-ah
letter

Money Book or
Lover
Pipe

Mish-e-my-e-gun

Medicine

Mus-ca-kee
Jim-is-sim

Os-poa-gun
Chis-ta-mow
A-cha-ca-che-puck-wow

Tobacco

Weed
Slave

for

smoking

Part (of a thing)

Puck-ee

A-wa-kun
j

Orphan

Ke-watch-e-wa-sis
Kis-is-tig-guy-ow

Peninsula
Relation

E-to-tame
Na-pe-quoii

Ship

Sword
Stone

She-maw-gun
As-se-ne

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Store

395

Tut-to w-o-way-gum-mick

White earth
Tatler

Wa-but-toon-isk

O-zom-e-toon-ew
Ka-ke-as-ku
Much-e-pe-ma-tis-su

Liar

Bad man Good man

Earthquake

Me-u-perm a-tis-su
An-ne-mus-kum-ke-py-you
I-a-sa-se-ta-you

Track

(of the feet)

Road

or path

Mays-ke-now
Cus-tin

Whirlwind

Good weather Bad weather

Male
Female
Cloudy
Windy-

Me-u-ke-si-cow
Mut-cha-ke-si-cow

Na-bew
O-ne-cha-nee

A-quos-quon
E-o-tin

North
South

Ke-wa-tin

Sa-win-oke

East

Cos-kow-kos-take

West
Straight

Ke-wa-noke
Qui-esk
;

Crooked

Wa-kow
Me-quow
Che-ba-tock-wow

Red
Blue

Yellow

O-saw-wow
As-ke-tuck-wow

Green
Black

Kus-ke-ta-wow
My-a-te-su
Cut-e-wa-se-su

Ugly Handsome
Beautiful

Me-u-nog-won
Na-mo-ta-wa-cow

Deaf

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

Good natured
Pregnant

Me-wa-tick-e-su

Pwow-wew
We-in-no
Me-chus-ca-wa-ke-su
Up-pe-se-se-su

Fat or

fleshy-

Large
Small
Short

Che-mis-se-su
Me-sick-e-tu

Tall

Merry
Melancholy

Me-wa-tick-won
Pe-kis-ca-tum

Long
Strong

Keen-wow
Mus-ca-wow

Weak
Cowardly
Brave
.

Na-ma mus-ca-wow
Sa-koo-ta-ow
So-ca-te-ow,

Lean
Foolish
Sensible
Stiff

Se-kut-chu

Ke-squiow
I-e-ne su

Se ta-wow
A-quis-su

Sick

Dead
Alive

Ne-poo

Pe-ma

tis-su

Miserable

Kit-te-ma-ga-su

Upper Lower
All

Is-pe-mink

Tup-pa-sis

Kuck-e-ow

Half

A -be-to w
Ke-squi-ba-ow
A-qui-as-se-wock

Drunken
English

French
Equal or alike

Wa-mis-to- go-she- wock

Ta-bis-kootch

Far

off

Wy-yow

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
-

397

Nigh

Kis-se-wake
or
little

Few

Up-pa-sis
Ty-is-co-sin

Fatigued

Good Bad
Avaricious

Me-wa-shin
My-a-ton
Sa-sa-kis-su

Generous

May-ye-kis-ku

Greedy
Hidden

Ka-shock-ca-ow
Kas-so
Kit-te-mew

Lazy

Lame Much
Flat

Muskip-pi-you
Me-chet

Nah-puck-ow

Round
Quick

Wa-way-ye-you
Ka-ke-e-pe
A-o-co

That
This

Muck-o-mao
little

Too Too much Deep

Shallow
Frightful

O-som-up-pe-sis

O-som-me-chet

Tee-mew
Pake- wow
Sa-sis-ke-na-euon

Wicked
Difficult

My-a-che-ta-ow

I-ye-mon

First

Ne-kan
O-take
Squi-atch

Behind
Last

More
Better

Me-nah
Ka-me-wa-shin
scented

Good Each

We-cum-a-gun
Pa-pa-uck

SPECIMEN OF THE CREE

Other
Pa-toosh

My own
Your own
His or her own
Their own

Nene-ty-un

Kene

ty-un

We-ah-one-ty-un

We-ah-wow-one-ty-

Our own

Nene
Ne-on

tyun-e-non

We? Who?
What?
I

A-way-nah
Ka-qui
Ne-kis-se-wa-sin

am angry
fear

Ne-koos ta-chin

To rejoice To hear To see To smell To taste To feel To come in To sing To halloo To whistle To weep To laugh To sigh To arrive To depart Assist me To beat To believe To rattle To suck

Me-wa-tum
Pa-tum

Wa-ba-tum Me-a-tum
Goo-chis-tum

Goo-te-num
Pe-to-ca

Ne-cum-moon
Ta-boi
Ques-qui-su

Ma-too
Pa-pee
Ma-ca-ta-tum

Tuck-arshin
Che-boi-ta-ow

Ne-sho-cum-a-win

0 -torn -me -wow

Ta-boitum
Se-se-quin

No- nu

OR KN1STENEUX TONGUE.

399

To puke To carry I am cold To take courage To dance To jump To slide To run To walk To ride (on horse back) To finish To starve To fall To strike fire To find To loose To paddle To give To take To hate To keep To know To leave To love To go to bed To arise from bed To sit down To get up To marry To play To make peace

Pa-cum-moori
Ni-och-e-ga-ow

Ne-cow-a-chin

Yesag-wa-me-se

Ne-me-too
Quas-quit-ta

So-squotch-e-wew

Pe-me-pa-tow
Pe-mo-ta-ow

Tay-tup-pew
Po-ne-ton
Ka-wa-cut-tis-so-wock

Punk-a-sin
Se-ka-ta-ow

Mis-cum
'

Won-e-ton
Pim-is-cow

Me-yow
O-te-naK

Much*a-ye-mow
Kun-ne-wa-e-ten

Kis-kae-ta-gwun

Nuck-a-tum
Sa-ke-how
Ka-wish-e-mo
O-nis-caw

Ap-pee
Pus-se-co

Wee-ke-mow
Ma-te-way
We-tus-ke-to-wuck

400

SPECIMEN OP THE CREE

To make war To pray To take notice To respect To sail To steal To sleep To talk To lie To go To lend To groan To beat To cut To cover To dispute To give To do To tie To unite To sewTo sit down To fall To work To kill To sell
lo come
Always
Because

Na-to-py-e-wuck

I-ye-me-how

Cun-ne-wa-bum
Ke-tay-e-mow
A-cus-tim-moon

Ke-mo-tu

Ne-pow
A-che-moon
Ke-as-ku
Ke-to-tain

Ow-we-hin
Ma-ma-pin-ow

O-tom-me-wew
Kis-ke-sah

A-quoon e-hah
Ke-ka-to-wuck

May-gu
Oo-she-hah
Tuck-oop-e-tah

Ap-pu-co-nah
Kus-ke-qua-so

Up-pu
Pun-ga-sin

O-se-che-ga-ow

Ne-pa-how
Ut-ta-wa-ow
Us-tom-e-tay

Ka

ke-ca

A-orco-chee
Pitch-is-qua

By and bye
Doubtless

Mos-kootcb

OR KNISTENEUX TONGUE.
Formerly
Gy-ass

401

Here

taw

How How many

Immediately
Lately

Ta-ne-say
Ta-ne-tut-to

Ka-qui-ah-ho
Gy-ass-an-e-watch

Never

Na-mow-we-katch

No
Yes Not yet Not at all

Na-maw
Ah-hah Na-mas-qua

Na-maw-waw-watch
Na-mavv-ca-qui-me-wa-sin

Good
There
Truly

for nothing

A-quo-tah

Ta-boi
1 a-Dis-cootca
FT' A
.

x ogcinei

Where
x et

1 a-ne-tay

Ka-a-bitcn

Un
and then Sometimes Seldom

An
1
>

Now

I-OS-COW

Thank you What is that? What now ?

We-na-cum-ma
Ka-qui-o-ko
Ta-ne-rne-ne-kick
?

Who

is

there

A-way-isa-nah
A-wis-se-tay

Get out of the way

What is your name ? Where are you going

I

Ta-ne-tick-o-way-on
?

Ta-ne-ta ke-we-to-tain

wish

to

depart
I

Ne-we-ke-won
Ka-qui-ka-pa-tum-mon
Ke-we-ut-ta-won-ehee

What do

hear

Will you trade?

51

NUMERICAL TERMS

OF THE CREES OR KNISTENEUX.

One

Pa-uck
Ne-sho
Nish-to

Two
Three
Four
Five
Six

Nay-o
Nay-ah-nun
Ni-co-twa-sick

Seven
Eight

Ta-boo-cpop
I-a-na-na-on

Nine

Ka-gate me-ta-tut
Me-ta-tut

Ten
Twelve
Thirteen

Eleven (and one more) Me-ta-tut pa-uck o sawp

Me-ta-tut ne-sho Me-ia-tut Me-ta-tut

Fourteen
Fifteen

sawp nish-to sawp nay-o sawp

sawp sawp

Me-ta-tut nay-ah-nun o sawp

Me-ta-tut ne-co-twa-sick o

Sixteen

Seventeen
Eighteen

Me-ia-tut ta-boo-coop tah-to

Me-ta-tut i-a-na-na-ow tah-to

Nineteen

Ka-gate me-ta-tut tah-to

Ne-sit-te-no

sawp sawp

Twenty Tweety one

Ne-sit-te-no pu-uck o

sawp

NUMERICAL TERMS. Twenty two &c.

Thirty
Ne-sit-te-no ne-sho

403
sawp

Nish-to mit-te-no

Forty
Fifty

Nay-o mit-te-no
Nay-ab-nun o mit-te-no
Ne-co-twa-sick o
tut-to mit-te-no

Sixty

Seventy Eighty

Ta-boo-coop o

tut-to mit-te-no

I-a-na-na-ow o tut-to mit-te-no

Ninety

Ka-gate me4a-tut o mit-te-no

Me-ta-tut-to mit-te-no

Hundred

One thousand

Me-ta-tut o tut-to mit-te-no

A SPECIMEN OF

THE TACULLY OR CARRIER TONGUE.

Man
Ten-nee
Cha-ca
Chilk

Woman
Young, man
Infant

Chu-tun
Pit-sa

Head
Eyes
Hair

O-now
Ote-zega
Pa-nin-chis

Nose
Teeth

Oh-goo
Tsoo-la

Tongue

404
Ears

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

O-cho
O-la

Hands
Belly

O-put
O-ca-chin

Knees
Feet
Nails

kate

O-ca
E-!a-ki

Grand father Grand mother

Father

Ut-che-yan

Ut-soo

Ap pa
Un-nung-cool
E-y aze

Mother

Son
Daughter
Brother
Sister

E-a cha

chill

E-taze

Nephew
Grand child Husband
Wife
Aunt
Old man Blood
Path or road
Chief

Quaze
E-chi

E-ki

Av-eve J
7

A-ki

O-yun

Sko

Tee
Me-u-tee

Excrement
Urine

Chou
Al-luze

Coat
Breech cloth
Leggins Shoes

Chute

Chon
Ca-chy
Kis-coot

Hat or cap

Tcha

OR CARRIER TONGUE.
FT a r\ c\ lr 0 vr In
i

405

p>

Za-zo
Pat

Petticoat

Cha-ca-chute
Nal-ton
Cliil-cho
t

Bracelet

Comb
Ring;

Ne-la-ta-ah

Needle
Scissors

A-a-bate-so

Clav-vee
A-a-pi

Blanket

Frock or fobe

Nal-tay

Goat or sheep
Ferret

Spye
Nah-pye
Ten-nee
O-chee

Moose
Cariboo

Beaver
Otter

cha
A-bay

Hare
Martin

Kah
Chin-nee
Suss

Bear

Lynx
Porcupine

Was-sav

Cho
Cha-kate
Chin-ne-cho

Musk

rat

Fisher

Mouse Meat or

Ten-ne-tay
flesh
'

Ut-son
Cling

Dog
Bitch

Clee-chay
Tate-sun

Crow Swan
Outard
Partridge

Chin-cho

Hok
Teel

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

Water hen
or pre:

Chel
O-gaze

Loon
Stnrcpnn

Tad-iov
Cla v-rhf

White
JL.

fish
i

Clo
Cloo-lav

Fish lull (in *U ^eneral^ CL vLlvl A

I

Fish roes

O-koon
Pilt

Trout

Salmon
Fire steel

Tal-loo

Kone
Tuch-in
Pa-she-al

Wood or tree

Bow
Arrow Axe
Net
Paddle

Al-tung

Ka
Cha-chill

Clim-nelt

Chell
Al-la-chee

Canoe (bark) Canoe (wooden)

Tuch-in-che e

Touch wood

Kel-cha
Sa-zo-en

Gun

flint

Grass or hay
Whortleberries

Clo
Chil-cho

Ashes
Fire
v

Clees

Kone
JL

unci

dO - V>CL

Autumn Summer
Sun

Ta-ca-ta
Ole-ol-ta

Sa
(night sun)

Moon
Stars

Cha-ol-cus sa

Clum

OR CARRIER TONGUE,
Thunder
Date-nee
Ja-ness
Na-ol-ton

407

Day
Rain

Snow
Night

Na-chaze
Al-cheese
Pun-e-ta

Morning
Sun
Ice
setting

Na-ah

Clum

or

Ton

Water

Too
Ton-ate-suck
Chell

World
Mountain

Sea
Earth

E-a-pack
Ote-luss
O-zell

Heat

Tomorrow
Yesterday

Pun-tay
Hul-ta
Un-tit

To day
Broth

Ta-zell

Grease
Sinews

Kane-loo

Tsay

Tent or lodge

Yah
Kus-tee

Bed Door
Dish
Kettle

Ta-tee

Tsi
O-sa.

Spoon or
Knife

ladle

Chin-ne-sko
Cles-tay

Sack or bag

Aze-la

Trunk or box Chimney

Fort or house

Chin-kale
Pa-kone-tas-kone

Yock

408
Sledge

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

Sclu-sa

Cincture or belt

Say
Ca-tell

Socks
Cloth

Tell-kuz-za
A-a-bate-say

Thread
Garters

Chal-chase

Medicine
Portage sling

You
Ka-nal-ta
Al-la-cha

Powder
Balls

Ca-tee

Shot

No-do-toae

Powder horn
Shot bag

Da-ka
No-do-to-bost-la-

Gun Gun

Al-tee

case

Al-tee-zus

Steel trap

Cha-co
Ill-chun

Stench
Skin

O-zuss
Cho-let-nee

Melancholy
Spirits

Kone-too

Breasts

Tsoo
Clays
Hon-elt-ya

Flour or bread

Vegetables

Heart
Entrails

O-gee
At-zee

Home
Iron

E-yok
Cles-tay

Letter or book

Dusb-lush
Na-ho-hul-ya

Lover
Pipe

Da-kate-say

Tobacco

Da-ka

OR CARRIER TONGUE.
Orphan
Ship
Stone
Till-in-yaze

409

Chee-cho

Tsay
Ton-gueese
In-gee

Gooseberries
Strawberries

White earth

Clis-paw

Windy
White

Days-chee
Yell
Ten-il-cun

Red
Black

Tel-kuz-zay
Dat-leese

Yellow

Ugly Handsome Deaf

Pregnant
Short

Ne-chay
Ne-zo
Ot-so-hoo-lah

El-chon

En-took

Long
Strong
*

En-yeaze
Na-chet
At-too-na-ehet

Weak
Heavy
Foolish
Sensible

Na-kull

Wos-se-nay

Ho-na
Tut-tay
Tas-si

Sick

Dead
Alive

An-na
Til-len

Miserable
All

Tche-ow
Too-nis-to

Drunken
French
Distant

Ned-do
Nee-zolt
Nill-took

Nigh

52

410

SPECIMEN OP THE TACULLY

Few
Full

or

little
,

En-soole

Shameful

Clou-cha

Dees-pun
"

Good Bad
Avaricious

Oo-choh
Ni-ka-tel

Kane-chee
Clyne
Ut-oho-in-tin

Much
Quick

Deep
Shallow

Ta-kull

Too-hoos-ka
Son-e-chee
At-tade-zuck
Nee-tlen
In-chis

am angry To hear To see To smell To feel To eat % To drink To sing To halloo To whistle To weep To laugh To arrive To depart Assist me To beat To suck To be cold To dance To walk
I
It is

Oan-ton
A-al
Ate-ni
XJt-chin

Ca-an-ni

Yool
A-chuck
At-lo
Na-tell
Ni-ne-tell

Sly-en e lay
Chil-tul-ta

El -took
Na-zes-lay

Nate-tah

Ni-yah
A-chel-ist-Ia

done

OR CARRIER TONGUE.

411

To To
I

starve
fall

Ne-cfco-al-hoo-3ah

Nal-chet

will

go

Oche-to-se-ah

Come with me To give To take To hate

I

An-nee

Won-neLlay
Ill-shute

O-cha-dus-se-ne

do not know

Tuch-a-hoo-ny

To keep To know To love To lie down To arise from bed To sit down To be merry To paddle To steal To sleep Go away To talk To lie
That

Hone

iay

At-dy e-tay

Qui see or Kane-chee

Sin-tee

Ta-deen-yai
Sin-taw

Ous-ta

At

to

Way-to
Na-mis-tee

Us-se

Yal-tuck
On-chit
In - tee
Se-ilt-sun

My own
Your own Our own
I

Ne-ne-ilt-sun

Wa-ne-ilt-sun

me Thou or
or

Se
thee

Ne

or

Ye

We
Above
Because

Wane
Ya-took

A-doo-aw
K,ud-dali

Bye and bye

412

SPECIMEN OF THE CARRIER TONGUE.

Enough
Formerly

Coo-la or Ate-sel
Ul-ta

Here

Ne-chan

How How many

Immediately

Tuch-ah
Ta-nil-suck
An-tit

No
Yes Not yet There
Truly

Own-too Ah- ah or A -ma

Katch-ah-ownto

En-chan
Al-late-ne

Too little Too much Where

Yet
1

Stan-sool

Stan-clyne

En-chay
Ka-cha
Se-na-chal-le-ah
?

thank you
is is is

What What

that

Tee
Ta-how-cha
Te-ween-tal

the matter?

Who

there

What is your name ? Where are you going?

Let us depart
Will you trade
?

Ba-zee
Ne-cha-en-e-gal
Na-zo-tell

Ba-che o-kate
Ne-cha-siil-tal

Whence

are you

I'HE

NUMERICAL TERMS

OF THE TACULLIES.
One
Clot-tay

Two
Three
Four
Five
Six

Nong-ki.

Toy
Ting-kay
Skoon-e-ly
Al-ke-tate
Te-kal-ti

Seven
Eight

Al-ke-tin-ga

Nine

Cio-hooly
Lan-ne-zy
O-un-na Clot-tay

Ten
Eleven

Twelve
&c. to

O-un-na Nong-ki
Not-won-ne-zy
Not-won-ne-zy O-at Clo

Twenty Twenty one Twenty two

&c.
to

Not-won-ne-zy O-at Nong-ki

Thirty

Tat-won -ne-zy-ah
Tit-won-ne-zy-ah

Forty
Fifty

S k oo - n e e 1 o t - w o n - n e - z y

Sixty

Al-ke-tate-won-ne-zy
Tee-kal-ty-o ^tate-won-ne-zy
AL-ke-ti ng-o-ta.!e- won- n e-zy

Seventy

Eighty
Ninety

Clo-hoo-Iy-o- tate- tvon-ne-zy

Hundred
Thousand

Na-ne-zy-o-ne-ze-ah
Lan-ne-zy-Q-lan-ne-zy-o ln-e

A CONCISE ACCOUNT OF

THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS

WHICH ARE FOUND
IN

THE NORTH WESTERN PART OF

NORTH AMERICA.
i

Buffaloes are found in great numbers, in

plain

all

the

or prairie

countries, on

both sides of
lati-

the Rocky Mountain, as far north as about

tude
fifty six

or seven.

The
is

bull

is

larger than

an ox, has short black horns, and a beard under

his chin
;

and

his

head
over

filled

with a long,

fine

hair,

which

falls

his

eyes, and
is

gives him a

frightful aspect.

On
a

his

back

bunch or excreshis

cence,
es,

commencing

little

forward of
is

haunchshoul-

the highest part of which,

over

his

ders,

and which terminates at the neck.

is

His

whole body
of a

covered with a long hair or wool,

dark brown colour, the

particularly

whole of which,
is

and

that

which
and
larger

on

the

fore

art of the

body, would answer well for mancoarse

cloths
is

ufacturing

blankets.

The
;

head of the
bull, his

buffaloe
is

than that of a
is

neck

short, his

breast

broad

and

his

body decreases towards the buttocks.

He

will generally flee, at the

approach of a man, ex-

418

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

cepting the male, at the rutting season,

when he
food
;

becomes

ferocious.
flesh of
is

The
the hide

the buffaloe

is

excellent

applied to

many important

uses

and

the long soft hair, the natives put into their shoes,

about their
socks
;

feet,
it is

and
is

which supplies the place of The speed of the fully as warm.

the same as that of- an ox
;

buffaloe,

much

and

when he
and then

runs he inclines his fore feet considera-

bly on one side of his body, for a short distance,

shifts

them upon the

remain
in

other, and contin-

ues thus, alternately to change them.

Those

that

the country between

the Sisiscatchwin and Peace rivers, are called the

wood
those,

buffaloes,
;

because they inhabit

woody

country

and they are considerably smaller than

plains.

which inhabit the

difficult

They

are, also,

more wild and

to approach. possess,

The
breed.

horses,

which the Indians

came

originally from Mexico, and are

of the Spanish

They

are in general stout, and well built

and many of them are of great speed.

They

are

very serviceable to the Natives

tries,

in

the plain coun-

are used to transport their property from

;

place to place
kill

and on them they run down and

their

game.

These animals
is

will

subsist, dur-

ing the winter months, on

find
six

the grass which they

under the snow, which

seldom more than

inches deep, on the

plains.

There are but

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
i

417

few horses
fiftv

to

be found, farther north than latitude

four or five.

There are three kinds of bears, the grey, the brown or chocolate coloured, and those which are perfectly black. The grey bears, which are
by far the largest, are about the size of a

common
as well
;

cow

and are remarkably strong

built,

and very

ferocious.

They

attack

human

beings,

as ail kinds of beasts, that fall in their

in their terrible

way

and

paws, the resistance, even of the

male

bulfaloe,

weighing fourteen or fifteen hunis

dred pounds,

utterly

vain.

Three

or four

of

the Natives join together whenever they attempt

to hunt them, and

each man

is

well armed, with

a musket and a long spear.

The grey

bears differ but

little in

shape, from

those of a smaller kind and of a different colour.

Their heads are rather shorter,

their bodies, their noses

in

proportion to

are less pointed;

and
is

they are more stoutly

built.

Their colour Their

flesh

beautiful lively silver grey.

has not
it

so good a flavour

as that

of the black bear,

formerly,

being more rank.

The
us,

natives,
;

made

use of their skins for beds

but now, they always

exchange them with

for blankets, &c.

The

grey, in

common

with the other kinds of

bears, pass the winter months, without taking any

kind of nourishment.

Their retreats are by the

have
fallen

sides of the roots of large trees, that,

418
down, or
in

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
the caverns of rocks
;

and

in

some

in-

stances they dig holes, in the sides of hills.

These

habitations are enclosed on every side, with the

branches of trees,

filled

in

with moss, &e. so as

his

completely to surround the animal, excepting

nose,

where a small
air.

hole'

is left,

to enable

him

to

breathe fresh
soon as the

They

leave these retreats, as

warm weather comes

on

in

the spring,

when they are apparently as fat, as they were when they entered them, in the preceding autumn.
This
flesh

has less
it,

substance,

probably,

as

they loose most of

soon after their egress

though they then devour, with an appetite ren-

dered strong by a winter's abstinence, whatever

comes
season,

in their
is

way.

Their

food,
it

however,
is

at this

not so abundant
live

as

afterwards, as

they generally
kinds #f
fruit.

upon

roots,

and the different

and honey,
is

They

eat, likewise, ants

whenever they meet with that which

bees and wasps.

made by
exceptis

They

rarely eat animal food.

little,

The brown and

ing in their colour.

black bear differ

The

hair

of the former,

much
flee

finer

than that of the

latter.

They

usually

from a human being.

One, however, that

will

has been wounded, or a female that has cubs,

attack a pursuer.

The brown and

the black bear,

climb trees, which the grey, never does.

flesh
is

Their

not considered so pleasant

food as that of
oil is

the moose, baffaloe or deer; but their

high-

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
iy

419

valued by the Natives, as

at

it

constitutes an artialso,

cle

their

feasts,

and serves,

to oil their
is

bodies, and other things.

Occasionally, a bear
is

found, the colour of which

like that of a

white

sheep, and the hair

the

is

much
it

longer than that of

other kinds

which have been mentioned

differs not at all

though, in other respects,

the black bears.

from

There are two kinds of wolves, one of which

is

rather larger than a stout dog, and the other

is

not more than half as large.

in

Their legs are

bodies.

long,

proportion

to

their
;

slender

Their

heads, also, are long

pointed.

and their noses are sharply

are long and bushy.
is

Their

tails

The
;

colour of the larger kind,

generally a light grey

but some of them, are nearly white.

er kind are

The
;

small*

commonly

a silver grey

but some of

them
cious
less
;

are nearly black.

They

are

all

very vorabeing, un-

but they never attack a

suffering greatly

human

when

from hunger.
cunning
;

They

display great ingenuity and

generally,

herd together, especially

in

the winter season

and make a hideous

ty or forty of

noise, particularly
in

when

thir-

them are employed

in

surrounding a

herd of the buffaloe or deer,

order to drive

them down a precipice. They frequently take this method to make these animals their prey
and, in order to carry a project
execution, they form lines,

of this kind into

to a cer-

by separating

420
tain

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
distance
noises,

from each other, and frequently

resembling the
in

make

human

voice

and

they appear to act

concert, as regularly as the

Indians themselves do,

loes into their yards.

when they

drive the buffa-

The wolves know the effects of a discharge and when a hunter fires his gun, at of a musket
;

a buffaloe or deer,

in a

few minutes, from ten

to

twenty of them

will
;

rush to the spot whence the

and, at

report proceeded

some

times, they are

so pinched with hunger, that

side his

while standing bethe hunter

game,
it

it is

with

difficulty that

preserves

from being devoured by them.

sorts of foxes, which,

There are three

howev-

er, differ only in their colour.

The

most

common
sil-

are of a yellowish red, some are of a beautiful

ver grey, and some

are almost black.
valuable.

in

the more northern latitudes,

last,

The

are by far the most

The

Indians have several kinds of dogs.

in

Those

which they make use of

ears stand erect;

hunting, are small, their

and they are remarkable for

their fidelity to their masters.

They now have

large breed

among them, which were brought

in-

to their country
glish,

from Newfoundland, by the En-

when they first established themselves on Hudson's Bay and from that place they have been
;

spread into every part of the country, east of the

Rocky Mountain.

They

are used only as beasts

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
of burthen.
In

421
they carry

the

summer
and

season,

loads upon their backs;

in

the winter

when

there

is

snow, they draw them upon sledges.

These sledges are made of two thin boards, turned up at the fore end, and joined closely together,
so that this vehicle
is

twelve or fourteen inches

eight feet in length.
is

broad, and seven

collar,

.or

The

by which the dogs draw,

is

much

like that

with which a horse

usually

harnessed, in the

civilized parts of the

country.

Their weight

is,

generally, from sixty, to one hundred pounds.

The
it

cat or lynx, in

its
;

shape and nature rebut

it is
;

sembles the domestic cat

much

larger,

has long legs, and a long body

tail.

but a very
considera-

short

Its hair

is

exceedingly

fine,

bly long, and of a lively and beautiful, silver grey

colour.

When

full

grown, the cat

;

will

weigh

thir-

ty five or forty pounds

and when

fat

they are

excellent food.

They

generally live on mice, the

find

dead

fish

which they

along the rivers and

In taking their

lakes,

and partridges and hares.

all

prey, they manifest

of the domestic
cat.

the adroitness and activity

In
;

some

years, these ani-

mals are very numerous

and, frequently, the fol-

lowing year, very few can be found.

There are two

these,

species of the deer.

is

One

of

denominated the jumping deer,

in

like those

which are found

the northern parts of the Unit-

ed States; and none of them are found farther

422

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
1

north than about latitude 48 or 50.

kind
is

The
;

other
elk.

sometimes called the red deer or the

are about the size of a horse

They
Their

and their

bodies, are
tails

shaped

like those of the

jumping deer.

are remarkably short, being not more

inches
long.
is

than three

Their

hair,

which

is

three inches in length,

of a light grey colour,

and

is

as coarse as that of the horse.

The

horns

of these animals

grow

to a

prodigious size, their

feet

extreme points are about

six

asunder;

and

they branch out before and behind, like those of

the

common

deer.

Their bodies are well prois

portioned, their air

noble

and, on

the whole,
I

they are the most majestick animal, that

have

ever seen.

They shed of February or March

their horns, in the

month

and by August, the new

full

ones are nearly at their

standing the size

growth.

Notwith-

and strength of these animals,

and the means of defence with which they are

furnished, they are as timorous as a hare.
skins are

Their

very useful, and

will

dress as well as

that of a buck.

They
trees.

feed on grass and buds,

and the twigs of

Their

flesh

is

tender, and

of a fine flavour.

The moose

is,

in

size,

next to the buffaloe,

The among the animals of the North West. ox, of an that like body is in shape, somewhat
raw boned, with high haunches
;

but

its

neck and
ears are

head resemble those of a horse.

The

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
large, like those of an
ass.
;

423
horns are
flat,

The

and branch out only behind

year.

and are shed every

and broader

The
it

feet resemble those of the deer, ex-

cepting as they are

much

longer

and when

puts

them on the ground, the hoofs

is
;

separate, two or three inches.

two

feet long.

The upper
man might

The head is about much longer than

and the
nostrils are

the under lip of this animal

so wide, that a

thrust

his

hand

into

them,

to a considerable distance.
is

The

colour of

the moose

a light grey,
is

mixed with a deep red,

its

and the hair

so elastic, that

shape cannot be
of this animal
is

altered by beating.

The
it

flesh

exceedingly good food,

being easy of digestion,

well as very palatable.
lip,

and very nourishing,

as

The
cy
;

nose and the upper

w hich

is

large,

and

loose from the gums, are esteemed a great delicait is

of a consistence between

marrow and
a rich and

gristle,

and when properly dressed,

it is

luxurious dish.

The
it is

hide of this animal

it is

makes
;

excellent leather, as

thick and strong

pliable.
;

and

when
ed

dressed

soft

and

The
it is

pace of
exceed-

of the moose,

is

a walk or trot

and

in swiftness,
It will, in

by few of

its

fellow tenants of the

forest.

with ease, trot over a fallen tree,

of five feet
ly found in

diameter.

This animal
it

is

commonmoss,

low grounds, where

trees.

feeds on

and the buds of

mains alone
;

The
at

moose, generally, refive or six

though

sometimes

of

424
them are found

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
together.

Their senses of hearing

;

and smelling are uncommonly acute

fore the least noise

and, there-

made by

a hunter, such as the

rustling of dry leaves, or the breaking of a small

branch, will be heard by this animal, at a great

distance, and will alarm
flight,
its

fears.

When

put to

the moose does not like the deer and most

little

other animals, run a

until a

distance, and then stop,

;

new appearance of danger but, oftentimes, he will not make the least halt, until he has run
ten or fifteen miles.
in

No

other animal that runs

of approach.

the woods,

is so difficult

There
difference

are two kinds of the cariboo.

The
is

only

between them
of a

is,

that the one

about

twice

sis

large as the
is

other, and

the

hair of the

smaller,

much

lighter colour.

The
;

larger,
but, in

will weigh nearly as

much
and

as

the elk
it

shape and the colour of the

resembles the moose
;

hair,

more nearly
it

like this animal

feeds

only on moss, and the buds of trees.

The

horns

are round, like those of the elk

but they approach

nearer to each other,

a,t

the extremities, and bend

more over the face, than those of either the; moose or the elk. The gait of this animal is much the same as thai of the moose, and it is
almost as
difficult
is

of approach.
;

The

flesh

equally good for food

and the

tongue, particularly, the Natives

consider as one

of the greatest dainties, which their country af~

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
fords.

425
from
it,

The

skin,

being smooth and free

;

veins,

makes the

finest of leather

and of

ex-

cellent leggins

and

shirts are

made.

The

Indians

attach great value also to the dung of the cariboo, of which they make,
licious broth.

what they
in

consider, a de-

They make

use of the lower bone

of the leg of this animal,

the place of a tanner's

scraping knife, to separate the hair from skins.

,There are two kinds of the antelope, which

fer only in size, and in the colour of their
tails,

dif-

which

are about two inches long.

imals
is

The
tail

colour of these an-

a light grey or

mouse colour, with here and

there a spot of white.

The
is

of the larger,

is

of

the same colour as the body, while that of the smaller,

is

white.

The

larger,

about the size of the

it,

jumping deer, which animal

sembles,
in

also,

very much re-

shape.

The smaller, will weigh about as

;

much

as a

sheep

and the

flesh

resembles mutton,
together, like the
;

in its taste.

These animals herd

is little

deer, and always remain in an open country

their speed

and

inferiour to that of the horse.

They are very timorous, and as soon as they perceive a human being, they run off to a considerable disand, if the person tance, but soon make a halt
;

hides himself, they will soon return, near to

the

spot where they had seen the object which alarm-

ed them.

It is

thus that the Natives manage, in

hunting them.

Their skin

is

thin,

and
;

will dress

equally well with that of the chamois

and the

54

426
leather
is

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
very suitable for leggins and shirts for
the

the Natives, during

summer months.

The

males have horns, resembling those of the deer,

excepting that they are smaller.

The
but
it

carcajou or wolverine, in shape and the

:

colour of the hair, greatly resembles the skunk

is

nearly twice as large.

is

The

hair of the

carcajou

about the same length as that of a

its

bear

and

colour

is

black, excepting a

naris

row

strip of white,
six
is

on the rump.
is

The
for
its

tail

about
animal

inches long, and

very bushy.
built,

This
size
:

remarkably strong

and
fish,

is

extremely voracious.

He

feeds on dead

which he
and lakes
:

finds along the shores of the riv-

ers*

and on mice, hares, &c.

He

is

often found about the places

ings

where human beif

have been interred

in

and,

they have not

been buried deep

the earth, he will take

them

up, and feed on their carcases.

On

this account,

the Natives never feed on the flesh of this animal, though

it

has an excellent flavour.

When
kill*

he

falls

upon a large animal, that has been

left

ed and cut up and

by a hunter, he

will,

within a very short time, remove the whole of

it it

to a considerable distance, and

strive to hide

under

grass, or the branches of trees.

The
mal, as it

skunk
is

differs. not at all

from the same

ani-

found

in

most parts of the United States

and

it

is

too well

known

to

need a

description.

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.

427
size,

The
but
little

porcupine,

in

shape,

and
is

differs

from the skunk.

Its tail

much
is

short-

er, and has little hair on it. ed with hair of a dark brown colour, about four

The body
is

cover-

inches in length.
quills,

This hair

interspersed with

about the size of a straw, that are white,

:

with black ends, sharply pointed

a kind of beard, which renders
to extract

and for about

very

half an inch from the end, they are covered with

it

difficult

them from any soft substance which they have entered. These quills are merely defensive

weapons

for

it is

not true, though

it

has

by some been asserted, that they ure, eject them from their bodies.
inoffensive animal,

can, at pleas-

They
;

are an

move but slowly

or
beast,

and when
their

overtaken

by man

they place

head
all

and their legs under their bodies,

reliance on their quills, for

and place

their

protection.
quills,

The

Indian

women

highly

value

these

which they die of

garnishing their

different colours,

and use for

shoes, leggins, &c.

in

They
an

also
arti-

hold their flesh

cle of food.

high

estimation, as

There

is

a small animal, found only on

the

the

Rocky Mountain, denominated, by

Quis-qui-su, or whistlers, from

Natives,

the noise

which
a per-

they frequently make, and always when surprised, strongly resembling the noise

made by

428
son

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS,
in whistling.

They

are about the size of a

badger, are covered with a beautiful long silver

grey

hair,
in

and have long bushy

tails.

They

burort

row
food.

the sides of the mountain,

and feed

roots and herbs.

Their

flesh

is

very delicious
at

They
;

generally produce

two young

time
give

and

sit

upon their hind feet when they

them

suck.

The

skins of these animals are

for

very useful to the Natives,

dress them,
cient

clothing.

They
suffi-

with the hair on;

of

and sew a

number

ment, as large

them together, to make a garas a blanket, which they wrap

an animal never found farther
It is

around their bodies.

The

racoon

is

north, than about latitude forty eight.

con-

siderably smaller than a beaver, with legs and

feet resembling this animal.
in

The
is

legs are short

like that of
;

proportion to the body, which

It

badger.

has a head like that of a fox

but

with ears shorter, rounder, and more naked.

hair
is

The

thick, long, soft

and black

at the ends, like

is

that of a fox.

On
it,

the face there

a broad stripe,

that runs across

which includes the eyes, which

long and round, with annucat.

are large.
lar stripes

The
upon

tail is
it,

like those of a

The
It

feet

have

five

slender toes,
it is

armed with sharp

trees.

claws,

by which
itself

enabled to climb

feeds
flesh

with

its

fore feet, as with hands.

The

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
of this animal
is

429

very good,

in the
fruit

months of Sepnuts,

tember and October, when

it

and

on which

likes to feed, are

found

in plenty.

The
which
it

martin

is

some larger than a

in

squirrel,
its

resembles

shape, excepting that

legs and claws are considerably shorter.

In the

darkness of

the night, the eyes have a shining

appearance, like those

ears,

of a

cat.

It

has short

which are of a roundish shape.

is

The whole
which
;

body

covered with
is

thick

fur,

in

a
in

mild climate,

of a yellowish

colour
it

but

the colder regions of the north,

becomes of
is

a dark brown, and,

black.

in

some

instances,
this

nearly

The
are

skins,

which have

dark colourthe othhair

;

ed
ers.

fur,

much more
tail
is

valuable

than

The

covered with long

of

and

under the neck, even of those

colour, there
is

the darkest

a small spot, of a yellowish cast.

The

flesh
;

of this animal has a rank, disagreea-

ble taste

and

is,

therefore seldom eaten.

its

The
the
in
tle

muskrat, which receives

that
it

name from
which
is
lit-

musk

affords,

resembles the beaver,

its

every respect excepting

larger than the badger.
in

size,
It

builds

for itself

a cabin

marshy
water
:

places, at no

great

distance

from some
mice and

and
it

feeds on
finds dead,

roots,

herbs/

fish,

which
their

on the mar-

gin of lakes and streams.

In the spring, these

built in

animals

leave

huts, as they are

430

ACCOUNT OP ANIMALS.
generally, at that

places so low, that they are

season, overflowed by water.

During the
:

sumbut

mer months, they have no

are found in different

fixed residence

among the grass. As the winter approaches, they erect new huts,
places,
in

which they pass the winter.

states, that

Carver

is

surely
in hol-

mistaken when he

they winter

low

trees,

without any sustenance, and that,

in

the summer, they feed on raspberries, strawberries

and other kinds of

fruit.

In the North

West country,

there are only three

kinds of squirrels, which are the red, the striped

and the

flying.

The

black and grey squirrel,

forty

sel-

dom go
or
six.

farther

north, than latitude

five

The beaver

has been so frequently and so miin-

nutely described, and his sagacity, ingenuity and

dustry are so well known, that a very particular ac-

count of this animal,

fluous.

in this place,

would be super-

As some other animals, in the foregoing description, have been compared with the beaver,
it

may be

necessary to state, that his weight

:

is

usually about sixty pounds

that his body

his

is

about

four

feet in length,

and that

legs are short,

particularly his fore-legs,

which are not more than

His fore feet are
furnishtoes,

four or five

inches in length.

armed with

claws, and his hind feet are

ed with a web or membrane between the

for the convenience of swimming, as

he

is

an amphi-

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.
bious
animal.

431
obliquely,

His

fore-teeth
his

stand

projecting

forward out of

mouth, and are

incisors, or

broad, crooked and sharp.

His

side

teeth, are firmly set and sharp, and his grinders

By means of these teeth, he is able to cut down considerable trees, and to The ordinary break the hardest substances.
are very strong.
colour of the beaver
is

brown, which becomes

of beavers in

darker

in

the northern, and lighter in the more

southern latitudes.
the North
ing.

The number
is

West

country,

continually diminish-

The

skins of this animal constitute, with the

;

Natives, the principal article of trade

price of other things
is

and the

computed, by comparing

them with a beaver

skin.

The

otter

is

an amphibious* animal, bearing

to the beaver,
it.

some resemblance
part, less

and yet
is,

in

many
every
it

respects, differing from

His body

in

than that of the beaver, though

is

nearly as long.

His teeth are different, being

a

in

shape

like

those of
is

dog or

wolf.

The

hair

of the otter

the beaver;

more than half the length of and in some parts particularly unnot
belly,
is

der the neck, stomach and

more greyish.
will not only

This animal, when closely pursued,

defend himself; but he
will attack

dogs and even

fish;

men.

His food consists of roots *md

and
not

his flesh tastes

and smells of the

latter,

and

is

very palatable food.

432

ACCOUNT OF ANIMALS.

The mink
colour.

is

of the otter

kind,

and

subsists
in
its

on similar food, and resembles this animal

In shape and size,
;

it

bears a strong reits

semblance to the martin

shorter.

but

hair

is

much

musky

scent proceeds from this ani-

mal.

It is

generally found along small rivers.

The
hibit the

following catalogue of animals, will ex-

comparative value of the

furs,

which

are annually purchased and exported to the civilized parts of the world,

by the North West Commentioned, the skins of

pany.

The
will

animal

is first

which
in

amount

to the greatest
last,

sum

and soon,
will

order, to the

the

skins of which,
otter,

amount

to the smallest sum.

Beaver,

musk-

rat, martin, bear, fox, lynx, fisher,

mink, wolf, buf*

faloe.

The
imals,

following catalogue will exhibit the com-

parative weight of the skins, of the different an-

which are annually purchased and exportabove mentioned.

ed, as

Beaver,

martin* musk-

rat, bear, otter, wolf, buflfaloe, lynx,

&c.

END.