How are Natural and Synthetic Dyes Different?

Natural and Synthetic dyes are different in one basic form. Natural
dyes come from products of the Earth such as blueberries. Synthetic
dyes are manmade.
Colour is applied to fabric by different methods of dyeing for different
types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process.
Dyeing can be done during any stage in the textile manufacturing
process. Textiles may be dyed as fibre, as yarn, as fabric, as garments,
depending upon the type of the fabric or garment being produced.

METHods of dyes
These methods include direct dyeing; Stock dyeing; top dyeing; Yarn
dyeing; Piece dyeing; Solution pigmenting or dope
dyeing; Garment dyeing etc. Of these Direct dyeing and Yarn Dyeing
methods are the most popular ones.
Colour is applied to fabric by different methods of dyeing for different
types of fiber and at different stages of the textile production process.
Dyeing can be done during any stage in the textile manufacturing
process. Textiles may be dyed as fibre, as yarn, as fabric, as garments,
depending upon the type of the fabric or garment being produced.
These methods include direct dyeing; Stock dyeing; top dyeing; Yarn
dyeing; Piece dyeing; Solution pigmenting or dope
dyeing; Garment dyeing etc. Of these Direct dyeing and Yarn Dyeing
methods are the most popular ones.




Direct Dyeing
When a dye is applied directly to the fabric without the aid of
an affixing agent, it is called direct dyeing. In this method the
dyestuff is either fermented (for natural dye) or chemically
reduced (for synthetic vat and sulfur dyes) before being
applied. The direct dyes, which are largely used for dyeing
cotton, are water soluble and can be applied directly to the
fiber from an aqueous solution. Most other classes of synthetic
dye, other than vat and sulfur dyes, are also applied in this way.

Stock Dyeing
Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of the fibers, or stock, before
it is spun in to yarn. It is done by putting loose, unspun fibres in
to large vats containing the dye bath, which is then heated to
the appropriate temperature required for the dye application
and dyeing process.
Stock dyeing is usually suitable for woolen materials when
heather like color effects are desired. Wool fibre dyed black, for
example, might be blended and spun with un-dyed (white)
wool fibre to produce soft heather like shade of grey yarn.
Tweed fabrics with heather like color effects such as Harris
Tweed are examples of stock dyed material. Other examples
include heather like colours in covert and woolen cheviot.



Top Dyeing
Top dyeing is also the dyeing of the fibre before it is spun in to
yarn and serves the same purpose as stock dyeing that is, to
produce soft, heather like color effects. The term top refers to
the fibres of wool from which the short fibres have been
removed. Top is thus selecting long fibres that are used to spin
worsted yarn. The top in the form of sliver is dyed and then
blended with other colors of dyed top to produce desired
heather shades.

Yarn Dyeing
Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns before they have been
woven or knitted into fabrics. Yarn dyeing is used to create
interesting checks, stripes and plaids with different-colored
yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff
penetrates the fibers in the core of the yarn. There are many
forms of yarn dyeing- Skein (Hank) Dyeing, Package Dyeing,
Warp-beam Dyeing, and Space Dyeing.

A. Skein (Hank) Dyeing
Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks
(skeins) of yarn into dye vats that are especially designed for
this purpose. Soft, lofty yarns, such as hand knitted yarns are
usually skein dyed. Skein dyeing is the most costly yarn-dye
method.

B.Package Dyeing
In package dyeing the yarn is wound on a small perforated
spool or tube called a package. Many spools fit into the dyeing
machine in which the flow of the dye bath alternates from the
center to the outside, and then from the outside to the center
of the package. Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness
and loftiness that skein-dyed yarns do. They are however
satisfactory and very widely used for most types of yarns that
are found in knitted and woven fabrics.

C. Warp Beam Dyeing
Beam dyeing is the much larger version of package dyeing. An
entire warp beam is wound on to a perforated cylinder, which
is then placed in the beam dyeing machine, where the flow of
the dye bath alternate as in the package dyeing. Beam dyeing is
more economical than skein or package dyeing, but it is only
used in the manufacture of woven fabrics where an entire warp
beam is dyed. Knitted fabrics, which are mostly produced from
the cones of the yarn, are not adaptable to beam dyeing.

Piece Dyeing
The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known
as piece dyeing. It is the most common method of dyeing used.
The various methods used for this type of dyeing include jet
dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.

Garment Dyeing
Garment dyeing is the dyeing of the completed garments. The
types of apparel that can be dyed are mostly non-tailored and
simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweatshirts, T-shirts, hosiery,
and pantyhose. The effect on sizing, thread, zippers, trims and
snaps must be considered. Tailored items, such as suits or
dresses, cannot be dyed as garments because the difference in
shrinkage of the various components and linings disort and
misshape the article.

Garment dyeing is done by placing a suitable number of
garments (usually about 24 sweaters or the equivalent,
depending on the weight) into large nylon net bag. The
garments are loosely packed. From 10 to 50 of the bags are
placed in large tubs containing the dye bath and kept agitated
by a motor driven paddle in the dye tub. The machine is
appropriately called a paddle dryer.







Dyeing Defects:
During dyeing a number of defects occur. These defects are
classified into two main categories:
1. Major Defects
2. Minor Defects
Major Defect:
A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would
cause the item to be a second. (A "second" is a garment with a
conspicuous defect that affects the salability or serviceability of
the item.
Minor Defect:
A defect is defined as minor defect that is not likely to reduce
the usability of the product, but nevertheless may negatively
influence the sales.
The minor defects can be untrimmed thread-ends, slight dirt in
a non-noticeable zone which can be removed, etc.






Due to Material:
1. Material having dead fibers or other defective fibers.
2. Left over of Chemicals after bleaching etc.
3. Material not properly desized.
4. Material not properly mercerized.
5. Absorbency of the fabric not proper.
6. Sticking of insoluble material on the fibers.
7. Impurities are not removed properly.
8. Uneven heat treatment.
Due to Water Quality:
1. More Hardness of water
2. Water has metal ions such as iron.
3. pH of water not proper
4. Water having more chlorine





Due to Improper Dye Solution:
1. Improper weight ratio of colors, material and chemicals.
2. Improper material to water ratio
3. Improper filtering of concentrated colors.
Name of Dyeing Defects:
1. Barre
2. Bleeding
3. Crocking
4. Shade Bar
5. Shading
6. Stained
7. Color Variation in Yarn
8. Hole in Sulfur Dyed Fabric
9. Creasing
10. Streaked

A short description of dyeing defects are given below:

Barre
Its horizontal shaded band across the width of the fabric.
It may be caused by variation in the size of the filling yarn
and by the differences in tension of either the filling or
warp yarns.
Bleeding
Its a loss of color when the dyed fabric is wetted or
emerged in water.
The water here, becomes colored and may cause
discoloration of other fabrics.
This is usually due to either improper dye selection or
poor dye fastness.
Crocking
It is the rubbing off of the color.
It may rub onto another fabric.
This may be due to inadequate scoring subsequent to
dyeing.
Shade Bar
It is a horizontal band of a different hue running across the
fabric.
It may be caused by a change of filling bobbin in the loom
or a loom stop and start up
Shading
It is a variation in color tone either horizontally or
vertically.
It is generally due to uneven tension on the fabric.

Stained
It indicates a discoloration caused by a foreign substance,
dirt, grease, oil or sizing residue on the fabric being dyed.
Color Variation in Yarn
Caused due to lack of agitation in the dye bath.
This is a major defect. The yarn was supposed to be
uniformly blue in color.
Hole in Sulfur Dyed Fabric
Caused due to tendering which takes place because
sulphur is converted into sulphuric acid after oxidation
which is harmful for the cellulosic fibers.
This is a major defect. The defect occurred
after washing the garment.
Creasing
Causes unleveled penetration of dyes which in turn results
into unleveled dyeing, which causes colour variation.
Differs from crease streak in that streak will probably
appear for entire roll.
On napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore
fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a
problem.
It refers to color that doesn't exactly match the standard
or the prepared sample.
This may be due to faulty dye foundation or application or
may be due to variation in dye lot.
Streaked
This type of defect on the fabric indicates either a stain or
uneven dyeing caused byfolds in the fabric during the dyed
process.
Color Fastness:
Color fastness is one of the important factors in case of buyers
demand. The outstandingly important property of a dyed
material is the fastness of the shade of color. Color fastness
refers to the resistance of color to fade or bleed of a dyed
or printed textile materials to various types of influences e.g.
water, light, rubbing, washing, perspiration etc. to which they
are normally exposed in textile manufacturing and in daily use.
We have written a lot of articles on color fastness.

Color fastness test
Standards of Color Fastness:
1. AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and
Colorists) technical manual:
Describes 66 numbers of different color fastness tests.

2. SDC (Society of Dyers and Colorists):
In 1927, SDC (Europe) made fastness test committee.

3. ISO(International Organization for Standardization):
In 1947, ISO made color sub committee. ISO also grades the
fastness:
For light fastness: 1~8
For other fastness: 1~5

Factors Affecting the Color Fastness Properties:
1. The chemical nature of the fiber. For example, cellulosic
fibers dyed with reactive or vat dyes will show good
fastness properties. Protein fibers dyed with acid mordant
and reactive dyes will achieve good fastness properties
and so on. That is to say compatibility of dye with the fiber
is very important.
2. The molecular structure (e.g.) of a dye molecule: If the dye
molecule is larger in size, it will be tightly entrapped inside
the inter-polymer chain space of a fiber. Thus the fastness
will be better.
3. The manner in which the dye is bonded to the fiber or
the physical form present.
4. The amount of dye present in the fiber i.e. depth of shade.
A deep shade will be less fast than a pale or light shade.
5. The presence of other chemicals in the material.
6. The actual conditions prevailing during exposure.
You Can Read the Following Articles:
Color fastness to washing
Color fastness to water
Color fastness to rubbing/crocking
Color fastness to perspiration
Color fastness to light
Color fastness to sea water
Color fastness to chlorinated water
Color fastness to hot pressing