SHORT-TERM CLINICAL OF PEEL-OFF FACIAL MASK MOISTURIZERS

Rafael P. Vieira
1
, Fernanda Fialho-Pereira
1
, Alessandra R. Fernandes
1
, Idalina M.N.R. Salgado-Santos
2
,
Claudinia A. Sales O. Pinto
1
, Carla A. Pedriali Moraes
1
, Telma Mary Kaneko
1
, Andr Rolim Baby
1
and
Maria Valria Robles Velasco
1

1
Department of Pharmacy, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, FCF-USP, University of So Paulo, 05508-900, So Paulo, Brazil
2
Instituto de Bioengenharia da Pele EVIC, So Paulo, Brazil


ABSTRACT

Test results of the skin firmness showed that all formulations used in clinical tests had satisfactory
performance in increasing skin firmness, confirmed by the statistical processing of data on the M1 values,
suggesting a non-significant effect specifically related to the implementation of the mask versus the
emulsion or the presence or absence of the soybean extract. Regarding the elasticity of the skin,
statistical analysis of the M2 values showed that none of the formulations tested had any significant effect
on elasticity. In addition, test results of TEWL showed that all formulations tested had similar
performances. Therefore, there are no particular advantages to using either a mask or an emulsion with
or without fermented soybean extract when considering the effects on skin elasticity and firmness and
TEWL in the kinetic study. It is recommended that long-term studies be performed to prove the
tendencies to decrease in M1 and M2 values and consequently to increase skin firmness and elasticity
and to certify if there is any effect on TEWL. Results of the evaluation of moisturizing effects of the
formulations in the upper skin layers showed that facial masks were more efficient than emulsions. This
efficiency is not related to the presence of fermented soybean extract, but to the cosmetic base, since
results for the formulations both with and without the extract were statistically similar. The results
indicated that peel-off facial masks increase skin hydration in a process related to the occlusive effect.

Keywords: Peel-off, facial mask, polyvinyl alcohol, soybean extract, moisturizing

INTRODUCTION

Facial masks have been used as cosmetic formulations since antiquity
1
. Currently, these types of
formulations may be used to achieve various effects, such as moisturizing and tensor actions
2
. Peel-off
facial masks may be formulated using polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) or polyvinyl acetate, which, after
application and drying, form an occlusive film over the face
3
. Many authors attribute to peel-off facial
masks the ability to produce occlusion and tensor effects after drying. Active substances added to the
formulation may intensify these effects
4,5
.These formulations often contain plasticizers, moisturizers,
preservatives, surfactants, fragrances, and active substances
5
.

Soybean extracts, obtained from fermented extract by Bifidobacterium animale, are sometimes added to
topical formulations
6,7
. The fermented milk contains sugars, amino acids, peptides, proteins, and high
levels of free isoflavones when compared to non-fermented milk
7
.Higher concentration of free isoflavones
is attributed to microbial -glucosidase, an enzyme that hydrolyses the isoflavone glycosides, including
genistein and daidzein
8,9
. The cosmetic industry attributes moisturizing properties to formulations
associated with this extract, according to its chemical composition
2
.

This study was aimed at comparing the moisturizing, tensor and transepidermal water loss effects of the
peel-off facial mask, after its application and removal of the skin, with an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.
Both formulations were made with and without soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animale
(5% w/w). meaning that four formulations were tested in all.

METHODOLOGY

Four formulations were developed: peel-off facial masks prepared with fermented soybean extract (MS)
and without soybean extract (M); and oil-in-water emulsions with fermented soybean extract (ES) and
without soybean extract (E). The study was designed as a one-sided blind and randomized trial using
three sites for application on each arm of the volunteers. Ten healthy Caucasian females (18-60 years)
with healthy skin, participated and signed an informed consent form for the study.

Skin hydration was investigated using a Corneometer

CM 825 PC (Courage + Khazaka, Cologne,

Germany) which was mounted on a Multi Probe Adapter

MPA 5 (Courage + Khazaka, Cologne,
Germany). Capacitance changes depending almost solely upon the water content in the stratum corneum
were detected and evaluated. The results are given in arbitrary units ranging from 0 (very dry) to 120
(very wet)
10
.
The effect of the skin barrier was evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) during the assessment
period. Test samples were prepared according to the method of Berardesca et al., 1995
10
. TEWL was
determined with the Tewameter

TW210 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) One measurement per

area was made and expressed in g/m
2
.h. The density gradient was measured indirectly by the two pairs
of sensors (temperature and relative humidity).

The viscoelastic properties of the skin were investigated with Cutometer

SEM 575 (Courage + Khazaka,

Cologne, Germany). The measuring principle is suction/elongation. An optical system detects the
decrease of infrared light intensity depending on the distance the skin is being sucked into the probe.

The statistical analysis was performed by individual volunteers using the SAS software 9.1
(SAS Institute, Cary, NC) on a Linux operating system.

CONCLUSIONS

The results indicated that there was no significant difference in the skin firmness between the application
of the facial mask or emulsion, nor was there any significant difference between the formulations with or
without soybean extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animale. These indicated that the water loss
through the skin follows a circadian variation, suffering variations throughout the day. Moreover, during 24
hours, no significant variation was found of moisturizing in the skin.



Figure 1:Strain-time-mode (E): the parameter M1 (maximum
extensibility) and the parameter M2 (deformation in
comparison to the baseline) were investigated with
Cutometer

SEM 575.
Figure 2: Mean estimate variation obtained after statistical
treatment for M1 value (end deformation or maximum
extensibility) relates to periods of time for emulsions
formulations, containing or not fermented soybean extract
(E and ES), and for peel-off facial mask formulations, containing
or not fermented soybean extract (M and MS).


Figure 3: Mean estimate variation obtained after statistical
treatment for transepidemal water loss (TEWL) relates to
periods of time for emulsions formulations, containing or not
fermented soybean extract (E and ES), and for peel-off facial
mask formulations, containing or not fermented soybean
extract (M and MS).
Figure 4: Mean estimate variation obtained after statistical
treatment for increased hydration of the upper layers of skin
(CW) relates to periods of time for emulsions formulations,
containing or not fermented soybean extract (E and ES), and for
peel-off facial mask formulations, containing or not fermented
soybean extract (M and MS).

There was no significant difference in the skin firmness between the application of the facial mask or
emulsion, nor was there any significant difference between the formulations with or without soybean
extract fermented by Bifidobacterium animale.
There were significant differences between the formulations in their ability to promote increasing the
elasticity of the skin. But, there were no significant differences in TEWL between the two formulations
containing fermented soybean extract to their respective cosmetic bases.

The observation about the significant increase in hydration of the skin caused by preparations of peel-off
facial masks and it justified the absence of any significant difference between the results of TEWL of the
two formulations in a short-term study. The presence or absence of fermented soybean extract in the
formulations did not cause a significant increase in skin hydration, indicating the inefficacy of the
constituents of the extract to promote hydration of the skin in a short-term study.

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