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The FiddleStick An Advanced Anchor Tool for

Canyoneering

The FiddleStick
is an advanced canyoneering anchor tool. It is a new approach to retrievable anchoring, opening
up a wider range of possible anchors, and making it possible to descend more canyons while
leaving nothing behind (aka ghosting). As an ADVANCED anchor tool, it requires skill, practice
and understanding to use safely. Even when used properly, it has the possibility of failing,
resulting in severe injury or death, or being stranded in a canyon with your ropes hopelessly
stuck.
The FiddleStick retrievable anchor system has some great benefits:
- Rope grooves are virtually eliminated.
- Anchors can be well back from the edge of the rappel.
- Anchors can be around corners.
- Uses little to no webbing.
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The FiddleStick
- Can easily and safely ghost in many circumstances.
- Faster to rig than most any other anchor.
- Lightweight.
- Fun!
The FiddleStick is both a product and a concept. It is
certainly possible to make very reasonable FiddleSticks at
home, but it is somewhat difficult to improvise them in the
field from commonly carried materials.
While it is possible to use the FiddleStick on traderoute
canyons, to not contribute to deeper rope grooves or make
some pulls easier, it really shines on first descents and in
rarely-travelled backcountry canyons where it is of
substantial benefit to not leave junk behind.
Using the FiddleStick
The FiddleStick is based on the Stone knot. The Stone
(Stein) knot can be used to secure both sides of a doubled
rope so both can be rappelled on. The concept is the same when FiddleSticking, but one end of
the rope is just a short tail, while the other (long) end is used to rappel on. A pull cord removes
the FiddleStick, and the Stone knot falls apart, leaving a short, clean end of the rope to be pulled
out from around the anchor, and down the drop.
There are several versions of the Stone Knot, but the one we recommend for the FiddleStick is
the Upward Overhand Stone, which has the most consistent disintegration once the Stick is
pulled. Learn more about tying and uses of the Stone knot at: CUSA Tech Tip: The Stone Knot
By replacing the carabiner in the Stone knot with a stick and leaving one strand short, you create
a very slick retrievable anchor. Upon removing the stick, the knot falls apart, and only the short
end of the rope needs to pull from around the anchor.
The above description makes FiddleSticking seem pretty simple. Sometimes it is; sometimes it is
not. Here is a rundown on some of the many subtleties:
What Can be Used as an Anchor
The FiddleStick allows a wide range of objects to be used as anchors that previously would have
been overlooked or not utilized because the length of webbing needed to use them would have
been too much.
Important Aspects of Anchor Construction:
- Solid, really solid. Large trees, wedged logs, big wedged rocks, etc. Put a rope around it,
pull real hard and make sure it doesnt wiggle. Ive seen large stout bushes move easily under
load and big rocks budge unexpectedly test your anchor.
- Snag factor. The tail end of the rope needs to run freely around the anchor all the way to
the drop. Also, the FiddleStick needs to fall cleanly. Look for branches, rocks, or other items that
could snag either piece of hardware. Have the first person down test the pull to make sure it will
work.
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Upward Overhand Stone
- Pinch factor. V-shaped
grooves can and will snag your
rope, especially if they get a
chance to jam in the pinch while
weighted. If necessary, add a
short piece of webbing around
the anchor and run the rope
through the webbing. Because
you are only pulling the short
end of the rope through the
webbing, a rapide is not
necessary. Leaving behind a
short piece of webbing is better
than getting your rope stuck.
- Angle to knot. If the
anchor is wide, such as a large
log or rock, and the stone knot is
close to it, the rope will converge
on the stone knot at a wide
angle. This is potentially
dangerous. Use webbing around
the anchor in this case, or tie the
Stone knot further from the
object.
- Rig the FiddleStick in
plain sight. While this is not a
requirement, it is nice if the
FiddleStick can be seen while
getting on rappel, and even
better if it can be seen from the
bottom of the drop. This allows
you to keep an eye on it at all
times.
- Rig the FiddleStick in
free space (vs. against
wall). Rig so the FiddleStick is
in free space. This prevents the
Stick getting stuck or knocked out by pushing against the wall. While often possible, sometimes
the Stick must be placed against the ground or a wall make sure that the ground or wall will
not PUSH the FiddleStick either IN or OUT.

Setting up the rappel
- Rig webbing if necessary. In cases where the rope wont pull freely around the anchor,
the angles are bad, a cairn is required, etc., use a short loop of webbing around the anchor, and
run the rope through the webbing. Rapides are not required in most cases.
- Rope around anchor. Put the tail of the rope around the anchor (or through the webbing
The FiddleStick - An Advanced Anchor Tool for Canyoneering - Tech Tips http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/
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FiddleStick Pulling Free
if used). Leave several feet of rope
past the point where you will tie the
stone knot.
- Tie Upward Overhand Stone
knot, insert carabiner, lock around
one upper strand. I often also put
the FiddleStick in place at this point,
though that is not necessary.
- Setup a backup. Tie an Alpine
Butterfly in the rappel strand and use
a separate rope to link this back to a
backup anchor or meat anchor.
Evaluate the stone knot/FiddleStick
as folks rappel:
- Does it bang up against the
wall?
- Does it twist or spin?
- Does it remain in free space (if
possible)?
- Does the rope stay in place
around the anchor?
Send down most or all of the party
but the Last Person.
Last Person: Loosen the Stone Knot
and insert the FiddleStick. Remove
the Stone Knot carabiner.
Snug the knot up on the
FiddleStick.
Deploy the pull cord. Securing the
cord to your harness, toss the pull
cord bag to the bottom. Have your partners manage the pull cord, so it is out of the way of the
final rappeller. Using a carabiner, clip the pull-side cord or rope to the FiddleStick cord. Do NOT
tie the pull cord to the FiddleSticks cord as this will wear out the cord quickly. Evaluate if the
security of the FiddleStick against the weight of the pull cord is sufficient. If not, add some
security to the pull cord side by:
- Snagging the pull cord on a bush or stick, that can then be easily broken by a pull from
below;
- Back from the edge, stack a rock or two atop the pull cord, to hold it until pulled from
below. Be sure the stack is far enough back that the rock will not be knocked over the edge;
- As you go over the edge, trap a bight of the pull cord under the rappel rope. This only
The FiddleStick - An Advanced Anchor Tool for Canyoneering - Tech Tips http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/
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FiddleStuck!
works if tension will be maintained on the rappel line for the full length of the rappel.
It is very important when rappelling to not snag the pull cord on the way down. If the pull
cord needs to be carried down, have the second-to-last person carry it while they rappel. As last
person, it is VERY DANGEROUS to rappel with the pull cord deploying as you go. If it
snags as you descend, you might pull out the Stick.
On long rappels, it is VERY HELPFUL to use a lightweight pull cord that will put less weight on
the retrieval side.
Retrieving the FiddleStick and Rope
Once everyone is safely down and you are sure you do not want the rope for retreat or any other
reason you can pull the FiddleStick and rope.
Pull steadily and firmly without jerking until you feel FiddleStick pop. It may come out easily and
it may take a tug. If the rope is really sandy and/or wet it will take more pulling. I prefer to pull
steadily and firmly but it might take a good tug. The FiddleStick will usually fly out of the knot.
- The FiddleStick might fly over and/or onto your heads. Wear helmets and be aware. Dont
hit your friends in the face with a FiddleStick. They get mad.
- The FiddleStick could get stuck on something. You
checked really carefully ahead of time, right? If it sticks after
coming out of the knot DONT PULL IT YET.
- If the FiddleStick doesnt come out you are jacked up
or buggered (technical terms).
Pull the rope. Pull steadily, dont jerk.You dont want to flip the
tail into a tangle. The rope will often just fall out when the
FiddleStick is removed. Otherwise, it shouldnt take more force
than pulling that short tail around the anchor.
- If the rope doesnt come easily it may have caught in a
constriction or somehow gotten a hitch around itself (or
something else); hogging on it will often just get it more stuck.
Try flipping it all about and tugging gently from different angles
before pulling with great force. Theres always time for fully
hogging on it later (which works sometimes or maybe it will
make it more stuck).
Problems with the FiddleStick:
The FiddleStick is pretty reliable, but there are a few situations you can encounter if not careful.
FiddleStuck
We achieved a state of complete FiddleStuck due to a choke on an intermediate level of a 200
rap. In this case, a small rock was just the right shape to first catch the knot of the FiddleStick
pull cord and hopelessly snag it:
(Picture after rope is removed. FiddleStick fell nicely in this groove with its knot caught on small
rock.)
The FiddleStick - An Advanced Anchor Tool for Canyoneering - Tech Tips http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/
5 de 9 07/06/2014 19:44
A FiddleStuck Rope
Then, when we pulled the 200 rope, it fell on the same rock
and also caught (other picture).
Note that the rope is solidly wedged by the force of all of us
hogging on it from below. This tangle was NOT safe to climb
on; the rock was easily removed and could have been
dislodged when jugging up over the edge. The canyon was
redone the next day for photos and rope retrieval. With 20/20
hindsight, the problem was pretty obvious!)
Check carefully for anything that could snag the FiddleStick or
rope and move, cover, or protect them as best as possible. The
FiddleStick often flies out of the knot and could catch on things
overhead or across from the anchor. Keep this in mind when
rigging and pulling the FiddleStick.
Care and feeding of your FiddleStick:
Imlay Canyon Gear FiddleSticks are made from Lexan, a
robust plastic. Check the stick itself for cracks each time you
use it, and examine the cord for wear-spots and defects. If the retrieval cord is compromised, it
might break when you try to retrieve the Stick. Send the Stick in for a new cord, or replace it
yourself.

The FiddleStick was developed as a group project over the course of two years. People who
made significant contributions to the effort include: Jenny West, Jonathan Zambella, Luke
Galyan, Steve Fisk, Steve Ramras, Mark Rosen, Brendan Busch, Kody Prisbrey and Drue Kehl
who came up with the name. Thanks to all for helping make this possible.
In the gallery, some more photos that illustrate some of the points.
Enjoy, and be careful out there. Gravity is an unforgiving dance partner.
Tom Jones, Mt Carmel, March 2013
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About tjones
Tom is the progenitor of Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide, Utah's premier
canyoneering information resource, and Imlay Canyon Gear, America's #1
maker of canyoneering-specific gear. If he's not canyoneering, he's probably
snuggled up with a good book.
Posted on Mar 12th, 2013 Anchor Techniques, Ghosting, Tom Jones
One Comment
The FiddleStick - An Advanced Anchor Tool for Canyoneering - Tech Tips http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/
7 de 9 07/06/2014 19:44
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Doug Bagley
May 15, 2013 at 3:00 pm Log in to Reply
Love the fiddle stick! Its such a relief to not be wearing out ropes and cutting
in grooves. Im 200+ and the fiddle stick has held great and released with
ease. Keep the innovative solutions coming!!!!!
thanks!
Doug
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The FiddleStick - An Advanced Anchor Tool for Canyoneering - Tech Tips http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/techtips/fiddlestick/
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