Digital camera cleaning and maintenance is something
many photographers (including myself) neglect to do with sometimes costly consequences. It is too easy to come home after a days shooting, whip out the memory card, have a play with your new images and forget all about maintenance of your kit. If you are like me, anything new that I buy over time (car, motorbike, watch, glasses etc), get cleaned immaculately at least once a day. Then after a few weeks it falls to once a week or so and then ust !on the odd occasion! or when they look really dirty. "ecause photography is my livelihood, I have to physically make myself grab my camera bag, go and sit somewhere quiet and take a good half an hour to an hour after a shoot to clean every piece of equipment that I have used. This kit has cost thousands and its cleanliness has a direct bearing on the quality of my images and the longevity of its use. #ot only that but as I upgrade my equipment, I may want to sell on my old cameras at the best price. These are the checks that I make$ Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Lenses %bviously take great care when cleaning the glass, it is what makes the lenses so e&pensive and costly to repair or replace. 'se only fine tissue paper and alcohol solutions that are designed for camera optics. (lean both the front and rear elements using a blower brush first to remove any dust particles. The last thing you want to do is scrape even the smallest piece of dust across your lens. I also use the bristles of a blower brush to clean in between the moving parts of the e&ternal barrel. This prevents a build up of dirt over time and maintains smooth operation whilst helping to prevent dust from entering the internal optics. )ake sure you clean the brush or replace it often too otherwise you simply end up smearing minute particles of grease and dirt onto the lens. Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Camera Sensor The most talked about and asked about issue with Digital *+, maintenance is the sensor and the accumulation of dust. If you are altogether unsure of how to go about it, wait until any sensor dust is at a point where it is unbearable (most specs are easily and quickly removed in editing), and then take it to be professionally cleaned. Damaging a sensor is e&pensive... If you intend to do it yourself, ust be careful. *et the camera to manual with a -. second e&posure. /ou will need time to clean the sensor but using the bulb setting (!"!) could be a mistake. If whilst cleaning the sensor, you accidentally close the shutter you are in danger of damaging the mirror, shutter, sensor or all three. 0ven if you use a remote release set to !"!, the batteries on the remote could give out and close the shutter prematurely. 1ith a fully charged battery in your camera and a -. second delay, you know where you are. %nce the shutter is open, hold the camera up so that the sensor is facing down, and use the blower (without the brush) to blow any dust away from the sensor. #.". The camera is held this way to allow any dust to fall out of the camera and the brush is removed in case it touches the sensor and adds grease smears or dust to it rather than removing it. If the sensor is really dirty, you are able to buy cleaning kits with swabs where you physically touch the sensor to !swipe! away dirt. 2gain, you need slight of hand and great care to do this so if unsure, seek professional help. Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Mirror/focussing screen 'nless I can barely see through the viewfinder (e&aggeration), I tend to leave the mirror and focussing screen alone apart from a quick blow3swipe with the blower brush. The only time I would give it more attention is if it were to run the risk of transferring dust to the sensor. Dust on the mirror or screen has no effect on the final image so any dust you see on these through the viewfinder, won4t affect the photograph (although e&cessive dust on the screen !may! affect the accuracy of focussing). %nce again, be careful as the mirror in particular is extremely sensitive and easily scratched. Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Outer casing 0ven though it is mostly aesthetic, it is still important to try and keep the e&ternal workings clean. The dirt on the outside can easily make its way inside, particularly if you change lenses often with dirty hands. I give it a quick once over with the blower brush first and then a quick rub with a lens cloth or dustcloth. I usually do the outer parts before the inner. This reduces the chance of dirt transferring itself inside. Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - Accessories )ost accessories have mechanical or electronic workings so it is ust as important to keep these clean to help with their longevity. 5or e&le, the battery contacts in a speedlight or remote switch need a quick clean now and again ust to prevent any build up of dirt or even rust. 2 failing accessory can be as disastrous as a failing camera in certain situations, especially paid ones. Digital Camera Cleaning and Maintenance - The Bag This is something that many people wouldn4t consider but the quickest way for cameras, equipment and accessories to become dirty is if you have a dirty camera bag or holdall. Dust, dirt, sand and even bits of )other #ature (leaves, grit etc) are easily accumulated when out and about. ,emove all equipment once in a while and ust 6oover3vacuum the bag thoroughly inside and out. 2ll of this seems a bit tedious but once I have done it I feel surprisingly good and happy with myself. I also know that when I go out shooting or turn up to a paid ob, the equipment is in tip7 top condition. Digital Camera Care and Maintenance Basic Tis The dawn of digital camera technology has undoubtedly offered limitless choices for professionals and neophytes alike to come about with the best possible photographic results. There is a wide array of camera options ranging from compact digital cameras to large D*+,s. 0ach type and class has its own strengths and limitations therefore making the task of shopping for cameras complicated. #evertheless, it will still boil down to the type and specifications that each person is looking for. It is a common knowledge that digital cameras don4t actually come cheap. 1ith each digital camera, there will usually be an assortment of features and utility levels which will make a good camera well above a thousand dollars. +eading digital camera brands include (anon, #ikon and *ony. 8robably the most essential parts of a digital camera are the lens, viewfinder and the +(D screen. These parts should be regularly cleaned and maintained. These sensitive components such as a (anon camera +(D screen should never be bumped or have a battery put against it inside the camera case. It is also important to invest in good quality lens cleaning equipment such as a good lens brush, a lens blower and lens cloth. 2 blower will help remove the dirt while a lens cleaning solution removes sticky particles on the lens. 2nother important reminder is to protect the cameras eyes by always putting on the lens cover when the camera is not in use. 2nother important aspect of taking care of your digital camera is storage. It is recommended that the camera be stored in a cool and dry space. 2lways keep the camera out of the sun and from cold temperature. Digital camera batteries should also be taken out when the camera is not in use. ,emove the batteries if you intend to store the digital camera for a long time. 2lso keep in mind that magnets of any kind should also be kept away from the camera. This is for the reason that a magnet may affect the circuitry of the camera. 2side from the structure of the digital camera, camera accessories such as memory cards should also be taken into account. 2s these accessories are small, they should always be handled with utmost care. It should not be taken out while in the process of transferring images from the camera. It should be stored appropriately to prevent misplacement and ensure safety. Taking care of your most pri9ed digital camera is imperative to make certain that they will last for a very long time. 0ven if you purchase the most e&pensive brand, there is still no guarantee that your digital will overcome the wear and tear of the years of usage. 2s much as possible, you need to protect it from abuse and neglect. 1hen you notice any damage or malfunction to any part such as the +(D then it is important to find someone who can affordably provide you (anon +(D screen repair services. ,emember that your camera costs a lot of money and it certainly pays to take good care of it. Digital Camera Maintenance Use These Tips for Maintaining Your Camera 2lthough today4s digital cameras are pretty reliable pieces of hardware, they do fail from time to time. *ometimes, they fail because of manufacturer error. )ore often, they fail because of user error and a lack of digital camera maintenance. 'se these digital camera maintenance tips to keep your camera in the best possible working condition. :. A!oid dirt and sand" 'se care when cleaning dirt particles and sand from your digital camera. Do not use canned or pressuri9ed air to clean the sand, as you might ust drive the particles into the camera case. "udget priced camera cases might not be sealed perfectly, making it easier for grit and sand to penetrate the case and cause damage. ;ently blow out the grit and sand to avoid this problem. 'se care when shooting photos on a windy day at the beach, too, where sand can blow with e&cessive force. 2void opening the battery compartment on such days. <. A!oid li#uids" Try to keep all liquids away from the camera, unless you have a model with a waterproof case. (ameras are like any piece of electronics, and they can be damaged by e&cessive water. -. A!oid touching the lens and LCD" %ils from your skin can smudge the lens and +(D, eventually causing permanent damage. (lean the lens and +(D with a microfiber cloth as soon as possible anytime you see a smudge from your fingertips. =. The lens and sun don$t mix" Do not point your camera4s lens directly at the sun for any length of time, especially with a D*+, camera. *unlight focused through the lens of the camera could damage the image sensor or even start a fire inside the camera. >. %se cleaning li#uids with care" 2void using an e&cessive amount of cleaning liquid with your camera. In fact, other than stubborn smudges, you should be able to clean the camera with a dry microfiber cloth. If a liquid is needed, place a few drops of the liquid on the cloth, rather than directly on the camera. 1ater can be used in place of cleaning liquid as well. ?. &acuum the 'ag" Dirt and sand inside your camera bag could damage your camera, so be sure to vacuum the bag regularly to keep it clean and protect your camera. @. (atch the temerature" 2lthough some cameras are designed to survive harsh temperatures, most cameras are not. Do not leave your camera in a sunny vehicle, where temperatures quickly can e&ceed :.. degrees 5ahrenheit. 2void leaving the camera in direct sunlight, which can damage the plastic. 5inally, avoid e&treme cold, too, which could damage the +(D. A. %se nec) stras and wrist loos" 2dmittedly, this is more of a !preventative! maintenance tip, but be sure to use neck straps and wrist loops with your camera whenever possible as you4re shooting photos outside. If you slip while hiking, or if you lose the grip on your camera near the pool, the straps can save your camera from a potentially disastrous fall. "etter safe than sorry. (If you do drop the camera, click on the link to try some troubleshooting tips.) Digital camera maintenance doesn4t have to be difficult. These simple tips show that keeping your digital camera clean can be fairly easy and can help you keep the camera in working condition as long as possible. Digital Camera Maintenance Tis sandro | Jan 05, 2011 | 0 comments 1e put a lot of time and money into our hobbies. It only makes sense to take care of the equipment we buy through maintenance. 1hether you are a beginning hobbyist with a digital point and shoot type camera or someone who has taken years to build their knowledge and equipment, taking care of your gear will help you take better pictures longer. 8hotographers tend to be gadget unkies, but rarely do they take the time to care for all of the gadgets they acquire. )aintenance not only gives your gear longer life, but it enables your gadgets to work optimally. %ur biggest and most e&pensive piece of gear is our camera. 6ere are some tips that will help you get the most out it for years to come. Grit, Grime, & your Camera TodayBs digital cameras are full of moving parts that will not operate properly if they are filled with grit and grime. The best thing you can do is be very careful when shooting in areas that are sandy or dusty. Take special care when you are changing lenses. /ou have to consider your camera sensor and internal components and the lens. The quicker you can make the swap the better. 2lways have the lens you are planning to switch to handy and ready to go before you take the lens you are using off the camera body. Ceep the opening to the camera body out of the wind while making sure to keep the opening pointed downward. This will help keep falling and blowing bits of debris out of your camera body. 8ut the new lens on as quickly as you can without damaging anything. #o matter how hard you try to keep dirt out of the camera and off the sensor, it is going to happen. If you are making your shots happen, instead of letting them happen, you will want to change lenses in the field. This means you are going to e&pose the interior of your camera body to the elements and it will need cleaned. *ome attempt to clean their D*+, sensor themselves. I do not recommend this at all. 'nless you are a trained professional, you really do not know what you are doing. %ne of the best maintenance tips I can give you is thisD +eave the techno stuff to the prosE /ou can damage your camera badly enough that you would end up needing to replace a very e&pensive piece of equipment. Do your best to keep it clean, and when it gets dirty, take it to a professional and get it cleaned. If you are not sure if it is dirty or not, then it might be a good idea to find a good local pro camera shop, take it in, and see what they will charge for an inspection and cleaning. Proper Care and Cleaning of Lenses 5irst, you are probably using filters rightF If you are not, then you should be. 2t the very least, every lens you use should have a 'G filter on it. The 'G filter not only helps with glare, but it also protects your actual lens surface. 1hen you get a new lens, the very first thing you should do is ensure it is clean and scratch free, and the second is apply the proper 'G lens. Ceeping this filter on at all times reduced the chances of dirt and other foreign matter obstructing or damaging the coating on your lens. 1hen the filter gets dirty, you can clean it with a normal cleaning kit much easier than you can clean a lens. If something happens that causes damage to your filter, it is much easier and less e&pensive to replace than getting a new lens. If your lens is not protected by a filter, go buy one and use it. If your lens in dirty, make sure you follow the recommendations outlined in your user manual for cleaning your lens. Damage and Abuse 2 true photographer goes where the shots are. This means (sometimes) e&posing ourselves and our gear to harsh conditions. )ake sure you use all of the straps possible in order to keep your gear safe. It is not uncommon for people to drop e&pensive gear while trying to get a shot. )ake sure you are aware of obstacles and other ha9ards if you are moving during shooting. /ou donBt want to end up like the guy in the video and possibly ruin thousands of dollars worth of equipment because you didnBt look behind you. Corrosion is Bad 1e rely upon batteries to power our gear. )ake sure you regularly check your batteries and you charging unit for signs of corrosion. If you begin to see the signs of corrosion, you can clean the corrosion away with some rubbing alcohol and ear swabs. If the condition persists, you may have a bigger problem with your battery. (heck for cracks or other signs of wear. It might be time to replace the battery. "asic common sense is your best tool in keeping your gear up to par. /ou probably already know that you should not point your camera directly into the sun. /ou probably already know that temperature e&tremes are hard on your camera. If you use your brain and take your time, you will find that the best maintenance for your digital camera is prevention and common sense. Ceep these things in mind while you are out shooting, and you will be sure to continue to practice the art of photography for years to come. Some Tips for Caring for DSLR Camera *torage is worth noting, keep the camera in a cool place (not too hot and not too humid) and protected from dust. /ou can buy special storage cabinets camera but the price is still relatively e&pensive. 5or an alternative, you could buy a glass cabinet 3 timber that is cheaper, attach it >watt lights in it and set the distance from the light into your camera around =.cm for the temperature inside the cupboard can stay cool. Then put some silica gel to prevent mildew. It is advisable to buy Dry "o&es, because more secure in the camera storage. *ow to sa!e *ave the camera should also be considered. )ake sure the camera laying position is correct, your camera is clean before storing. for storage in a long time was to remove the battery from the camera to avoid over7charging. 5or D7*+, camera, remove the lens from the camera body was before saved. If you bring a camera in traveling, save your camera in a special bag to avoid the camera shake. Avoid excessive sun rays Excessive hot sun can damage your parts camera made of plastic and rubber and electronic components in it. A!oid camhor 2void camphor D camphor is a thing that is in fear by the camera, because camphor can damage the 8"( (printed circuit board) that is the place where the electronic chip camera was attached. (amphor Gapor can also create spots spots on your camera lens. 2ccording to the news of damage to the camera that is caused by camphor is very difficult to repair and maybe even can not be improved anymore.. A!oid sea water *ea water is very dangerous for the camera, keep the camera from splashes of sea water, sea water is very bad and cause corrosion potential of the camera or other electronic devices. 5or D7 *+, camera users, not allowed to replace the lens on the beach let alone at sea, because sea water vapor in the wind can blow into your camera and can damage to the inside of your camera . 2fter hunting on the sea or the beach immediately clean up your camera because the grains of sand grains that contain salt can cause rust on the camera part made of iron. Clean camera (lean your camera after use or at least once a week. 'se a soft cloth or a camera special cloth that normally wear glasses to wipe clean the body and the outside of the lens to the front of the lens, and the filters you can use a special wipes lens cleaning. To remove dust using a soft brus, makeup brush and camera blower. 2ll of the equipment, can be found at your nearest camera shop in your town. +egular ser!ice *ervice on a regular basis, not allowed to disassemble the camera if not e&pert. Care and Maintenance of ,our Digital Camera 2pril :H, <..H by admin 5iled under Digital (amera Tips +eave a comment 2fter spending money on a quality digital camera, it is important to take the time to maintain it properly. /our camera will last much longer if you take preventative measures to keep it in the best condition. The most important, and delicate, component of your digital camera is the camera lens. This serves as your window to the world, and once scratched it will require professional intervention to fi&. 5or this reason, it is imperative that you protect the lens. 5irst of all, when you are not taking photos your lens cap should always be on to keep the lens clean. Do not touch the lens directly with your finger. The oils left behind by your skin will be difficult to remove, making the view blurry at best. If your lens should get dusty or dirty, use a cleaner and cloth made specifically for cleaning camera lenses. The body of your camera should also be kept clean and free of debris. Ceep the camera in a case or pouch when not in use. If it should get dirty, wipe it down with a soft dry cloth. If you camera has an +(D panel, it is acceptable to breath lightly on it to add slight bit of moisture before wiping it down with a soft cloth. Digital cameras should be kept dry. )ost cameras are not waterproof, and should not be in situations where they could be submerged in liquid or even splashed. If your camera should get wet, it is a good idea to turn it off, remove the battery, and remove the memory card. +eave the camera out to air dry for one to two days. 2t that time if the camera is not functioning properly you will need to contact a professional repair company or the manufacturer for advice. In general, your camera will do best if stored in mild, dry conditions. 0&treme temperatures can be damaging so try not to leave your camera in your car or any super sunny locations. 2nother good idea is to save the silica gel packets that come with many purchases to prevent moisture damage, and place them in the drawer or container where your camera is stored. If you plan to store your camera for a long period of time without use, you should first remove the battery from the camera. This precaution will prevent damage in case the battery should leak. 5inally, if you are planning to take photos in a location where you believe there will be a higher risk of damage from water or soil or other conditions purchase a disposable camera and leave your digital at home. "etter safe than sorry. )aintaining your equipment is part of the investment. *imple cleaning and maintenance can make sure you get the most enoyment and life from your digital camera. Lens Maintenance - .rotect ,our .riced .ossession #ovember <?, <..A in 0quipment
6ave you ever been worried about the maintenance of the lens you have been usingF Its obvious for two reasons. %ne, you have invested so much of money in buying a good quality lens, you canBt afford treat it badly I you shouldnBt. *econd, good lens becomes one of the maor factor behind good quality photographs. +ets have a look at some tips on how to take care of your +ens and how to do regular maintenance. "efore any tips, follow this rule of the thumb, few years back when I was still learning the basics, a professional photographer told me J1henever you use a camera the first thing you do is hang it around your neck with a good quality strap. It will avoid the camera and the lens from crashing or hitting any obect unless you fall flat on your faceK. 2 lens accumulates dust and grit all the time. If you visit the sea coast youBd notice the moisture settling down on the lens. ;ood maintenance can avoid (or postpone) the need of cleaning the lens. +etBs see what precautions we can take for the maintenance. Lens Hood 2 lens hood or lens shade should be attached to a lens in order to block the bright sunlight or other light source to reduce the impact of glare on the lens when you take pictures. 2part from this, a hood also protects your lens if by chance you scratch the lens to any wall, or anything else while you are carrying it in your hand. UV/ light filter ItBs recommended to use a 'G filter or any plain sunlight filter on the lens. 'G filter blocks the 'G rays getting into your camera and changing the colors of your photograph. 2lso, protects the outer glass of your lens from scratches. /ou will have to clean the filter only not the lens. "ut one thing to keep in mind, if you have invested good amount of money in the lens, make sure you buy a good quality filter. 2nd donBt worry, e&tra glass doesnBt spoil your pictures but can improve their colors. Cleaning of the lens ItBs very important to learn how you can clean the lens of your D*+, yourself and understand the DoBs and DonBts of it. (leaning the lens is a very tricky e&ercise and requires e&pertise and precaution. 1eBve covered this in detail in how to clean the camera lens. Basic Camera Care "y +i9 )asoner, 2bout.com ;uide *imilar to your photographic lenses, the - main enemies of your camera areD Dirt Shock Water Dirt Dirt is everywhere! Its in the air, its under our feet, and a too often its on !and in" our cameras# Whie dirt on the outside of your camera is not a $ro%em !e&ce$tin' the ens of course", its the $otentia the dirt has for 'ettin' into your camera that is the $ro%em# Dirt in a camera can effect movin' $arts, dama'e mirrors, co' eectronic contact $oints, 'et on fim, and stick to di'ita sensors# (he %est course of action for deain' with dirt in your camera is to avoid it# (he vast ma)ority of shootin' situations wi not cause a dirt $ro%em for your camera# *owever, some situations are reci$es for $ro%ems# +eaches, deserts, horse races, motocross, swam$s, and other areas are $rone to more dust and dirt than everyday usa'e# In order to $rotect your camera it is %est to use a rain hood for your camera# ,ain hoods are viny-nyon $ouches made for s$ecific cameras that aow you to sti reach camera contros whie $rotectin' the camera from environmenta conditions# .ou can $urchase these at your favorite camera sho$ or make your own usin' a ar'e /i$ %a'# (o make your own cut a hoe for your camera ens in one side of the %a' and use the /i$ end to $ut your hands throu'h to the contros# .ou wi have to carefuy secure the %a' to the camera ens usin' ta$e or a ru%%er %and# +e sure to use a ar'e enou'h %a' to aow for ens movement if you are usin' an S0, ty$e camera# 1nother time that dirt 'ets into a camera is durin' ens chan'es and fim oadin'# If you are not carefu when chan'in' enses or oadin' fim a ot of air%orne dust-dirt can enter the camera %ody# (o minimi/e dust durin' ens chan'es turn the camera facin' down and $ress the ens u$ into the camera# (his $revents dust from fain' into the camera %ody# When chan'in' fim, kee$ the camera hori/onta instead of titin' it forward# Shock 2othin' wi send a $hoto'ra$her3s heart into her stomach ike seein' a camera doin' a tri$e sachow across a $aved $arkin' ot !trust me, I3ve done it"# With the e&ce$tion of some oder fuy manua S0,s made of meta, there are very few cameras that can survive a fa onto a hard surface from a hei'ht of even a few feet# 4utside of fuy encasin' your camera in shock resistant materias, a you can ho$e to do is avoid camera shock# (here are some very common causes of camera shock# +roken 5amera Stra$ 5amera +a' 0eft 4$en 2on67se of 5amera Stra$ 8acin' the 5amera on 7nsta%e Su$$ort (he %est way to avoid these $ro%ems is to )ust $ay attention# 5heck your camera stra$ and its connectors re'uary for wear or si'ns of dama'e# 9ake it a ha%it to dou%e check that your camera %a' is $ro$er cosed %efore $ickin' it u$# 7se the camera stra$ whenever usin' your camera# It is there to catch the camera if you fum%e it# 2ever use :uestiona%e su$$ort for your camera# ;ence ed'es and raiin's at scenic overooks are not acce$ta%e su$$ort# 7se a tri$od on sta%e 'round# Water Water doesn3t react we with fim or di'ita sensors# 2or does it react we to %atteries or any eectronic $arts# If your camera is not made for underwater use or encased in a water$roof housin', kee$ it out of water# 7se a rain hood durin' %ad weather !even heavy fo' can cause $ro%ems for some cameras"# If conditions woud cause eye'asses to fo' when movin' from indoors to outdoors or vice6versa, there is a 'ood chance your camera coud suffer interna condensation# 7se a camera %a' to insuate your camera and aow it to chan'e tem$eratures 'raduay# If your camera does 'et wet !more than a few raindro$s" there are ony a few thin's you can do# 4$en the camera !if $ossi%e" and turn it so that the water can drain freey# Wra$ the ens in a very a%sor%ent towe once a water has drained that wi drain# Do 24( %ot the camera3s interna workin's# (ake the camera to the nearest $rofessiona re$air sho$ immediatey# /oo' guide to ta)ing good care of your DSL+ I have decided to do this guide as I was basically unprepared and surprised by the amount of work needed to take good care of a D*+,, especially when I have splurged tons of money on it. I tried to search the net for a complete guide but only managed to get bits and pieces on this topic. 2s such, I have decided to compile the information into a complete guide to enable super noobs like me take good care of my D*+,. 2ll information are pulled from the net and references are quoted in brackets and listed at the end. 0ndex A1 DSL+ - 2eneral care :) D*+, (amera bag <) +(D screen protector -) (aps =) 5ilters >) *houlder3neck strap ?) +ens hood @) "atteries A) (hanging lenses H) )oisture condensation B1 DSL+ - Cleaning and maintenance (Luick link) C1 DSL+ - Storage (Luick link) D1 Li-0on 'attery ac)s (Luick link) 7 important facts which most of us don't know!!! 31 DSL+ 'ags (Luick link) 41 +eferences Important D )ost of my pictures are *ony brand as I bought a *ony alpha >>.E )ain contributors :) ie, 7 much than& for giving me much info. This post has been edited by )marcD 2pr << <.:., .?D=H 8) kmarc Man <: <.:., .?D<@ 8) *how posts by this member only N 8ost O< Technology is too slowE A1 DSL+ - 2eneral care 51 Camera 'ag It is important to get a good D*+, bag that fit your usage. It should be well7padded and big enough to fit all your accessories but still able to protect the camera in case of an accident (e.g. knock against a hard obect, bag dropped, etc). *ome would recommend getting one with a hard case rather that a soft one (:). Thin cloth bags are convenient but might not protect you D*+, that well from e&ternal bumps or drops. 6ere4s an e&le of a good D*+, bagD ;roupD 0lite 8ostsD ?,??: ,atings earnedD 67, 6- ,atings givenD 67, 6- MoinedD )ay <..? 5romD *ibu Cindly read post O? on D*+, bags for detailed info regarding D*+, bags. 81 LCD screen rotector )ake sure you buy a good +(D protector to protect the +(D from scratches. (heap ones would be adequate but you4ll find that it will eventually get many scratches and become unsightly. 2 better alternative would be a !glass7type! of +(D protector as belowD *ource of picture D httpD33www.u&sight.com3product3H>A:3lcd7sc...7dslr7a->..html 6ow to install a !glass7type! +(D protector D httpD33www.youtube.com3watchF vPw#ian?sD,2g 91 Cas Camera ca :; 'ody ca1 7 +eft picture below 0nsure that you always cap your camera if you intend to remove the lens for prolonged periods of time for whatever reason (e.g. storage, lens cleaning, etc). This will prevent dust from going into the camera and settle on the camera mirrors or sensors. Lens ca 7 )iddle picture below It is important to cap your lens anytime you are not using the D*+,. This will reduce the chance of the lens becoming dirty or worse still, the chance of the lens being scratched. 2 scratched lens would be e&pensive to replace and will not be covered under the normal warranty. +ear lens ca 7 ,ight picture below 2gain, if you remove your lenses for prolonged periods of time, it is important to cap the front 2#D back of the lens. #ote D If you go for outings, it would be wise to bring all the caps along ust in case you might need to remove the lens for whatever reason. The convenient thing about camera cap and the rear lens cap is that you can screw them both together to carry as a single piece. "ody cap and rear lens cap screwed togetherD <1 4ilters To further protect your lenses, it is also advisable to get a clear rotection filter or a %& filter to attach to the front of the lens. This will ensure that any scratches or knock to the front of the lens will hit the 'G filter rather than the lens itself. In case such a thing happens, you can easily replace the 'G filter which is relatively cheap as compared to replacing the lens elements. In addition, in case your front lens get dirty, it is actually the filter that gets dirty and not the front lens element. 2s such, you can clean the filter without any worries. This is especially true if something sticky gets stuck in front of the lens which require you to wipe more vigorously to clean it. 'G filters are usually cheap but try not to get a cheap lousy filter as it may interfere with proper light penetration and cause poorer pictures being taken. ;ood reputable lens filters available locally are likeD :) "Q1 <) 6oya -) (arl Reiss #ote D The 'G blocking function in 'G filters are actually not necessary for Digital*+, (D*+,) but only for film *+,. That4s because the digital sensor of a D*+, doesn4t react to 'G light. In the era of *+, using films, 'G light can cause blur and can react to many colour films to cause a blue cast (:.). 6ere a good review of filters D httpD33www.lenstip.com3::-.:7article7 'GSfi...troduction.html 7 the only problem with this review is that it takes into consideration the 'G blocking capabilities too, which as mentioned earlier, is not necessary. 6owever, the review do mentioned that the 'G blocking function might be useful at high altitudes due to higher 'G radiation. =1 Shoulder/nec) stra 0very time you lift up your camera, make it a habit to immediately put strap around your neck. That way, you4ll reduce the risk of dropping your camera. 2lternatively, you can coil your arm around the strap for added protection. This video shows you how to hold your camera properly including the coiling of the strap around your arm D (lick here In case you want to let someone use your D*+, (nobody touches mineEEE), make them wear the strap around their neck while handling your precious D*+,EEE >1 Lens hood The primary function of the lens hood is to prevent stray light from entering the lens as it e&tends and shade the front end of the lens. This is especially true if you shoot in the direction of the sun, causing unwanted artifacts in your picture such as lens flare, decrease contrast and image degradation. "y using a lens hood, you4ll also get the added benefit of lens protection from any accidental impact or bumps. 2ccidental touches and scratches are also reduced. 6owever, lens hood are only usually used when you shoot outdoors under bright sunlight or shoot under e&treme lighting condition as protection again impact is secondary. Must in case you don4t know how a lens hood looks like on a camera, here4s a pictureD *ummary of advantages of lens hoodD :) ,educe unwanted flare <) ,icher colour3deeper saturation, improved contrast -) 8rotection from impact or accidental touches3scratches =) 1ith a lens hood, many argue that you don4t need to use a 'G filter (which might degrade your images somewhat) ?1 Batteries %ne equipment that is often overlooked is the rechargeable batteries used in D*+, (or any electronic devices actually). The most common rechargeable battery nowadays are +ithium7Ion (+i7Ion) batteries which, like any other rechargables, have a certain lifespan. 0mortant D I was very surprised to find out about crucial important facts on +i7Ion batteries. 8lease read on the details of +i7ion batteries below, in the !D1 Li-0on 'attery ac)s! subsection. @1 Changing lenses - )ee the dust awayA )ost D*+, users (including noobsE) will usually have more lenses than they do cameras. 2s such, lens changing is unavoidable. 2s we all know, there is always a chance that dust can get into the camera every time you change lenses. 6ere are some tips to reduce this risk when you change your lensD :) )inimi9e lens changing if possible <) (hange your lenses before you go out e.g. to the beach -) 2void dusty places =) Turn off camera >) 8oint your camera downwards 7 like you want to take picture of the ground :. feet away (no need to point directly downwardsE) ?) (hange while the camera is on a tripod @) Ceep your back to the wind &ideos on how to change lenses (so easyEE)D #oob way to change lenses 2dvanced noob way to change lenses (lolE) (amera7hanging7around7neck lens changing technique If7you7have7big7enough7hands lens changing technique *uper7glued7<&7rear7lens single7hand lens changing technique (got battery trick tooEEE) #o7hands7professional lens changing technique B Clic) to show Soiler - clic) again to hide""" C D1 Moisture condensation "e careful if you take your D*+, directly from a cold to a warm place as this may cause moisture condensation outside as well as inside your camera e.g. from an air7 condition room to outdoors, from car to outside. 2n e&treme e&le is like the time you take out a can of soft drink from the fridge and leave it on the table. /ou4ll see beads of water forming on the can in no timeE The condensation may cause a malfunction of the camera and also promote fungi growth. To prevent this, you can do a few things "05%,0 you take it to a warm environmentD :) *eal your camera in a plastic bag (e.g. Riplock bag or even normal plastic bag) and allow it to adapt to conditions at the new location. <) Ceep your camera3lens in your camera bag and let it warm up gradually. -) If you got none of the above, some even use towelsE The key point is that you want your camera to gradually warm up to the same temperature as it4s surrounding environment. *ony instruction manual mentioned that you actually might have to wait up to an hour depending on conditionE The higher the temperature difference, the longer you4d have to wait. If you don4t know what a 9iplock bag looks like, take a look below (Don4t mind the tomatoesEEE)D If moisture condensation occurs, turn off the camera and wait about an hour for the moisture to evaporate. #ote that if you attempt to shoot with moisture remaining inside the lens, you will be unable to record clear images (*ony instructionmanual) This post has been edited by )marcD )ay << <.:., .>D-< 8) kmarc Man <: <.:., .?D-: 8) *how posts by this member only N 8ost O- Technology is too slowE ;roupD 0lite 8ostsD ?,??: ,atings earnedD 67, 6- ,atings givenD 67, 6- MoinedD )ay <..? 5romD *ibu In progress..... B1 DSL+ - Cleaning E maintenance Cleaning )it "uy a proper cleaning kit to clean your lenses. 8lease do not use toilet paper and waterE 6ere4s an e&le of what a good cleaning kit should includeD :) +ens cloth (preferably micro7fiber type) <) +ens cleaning solution3liquid -) +ens brush 7 to remove dust at the edge of the lens =) 2ir7blower 7 to remove dust particles on the lens 2lternative 7 lens pen In addition, it is recommended that you bring your cleaning kit along if you4re planning to go for an outing. If you do get your lens dirty during a photo shooting, you are prepared with a proper cleaning kit rather than becoming !)acguyver! and use your t7shirt to clean the lens..... #ote D 6ence, make sure your bag is big enough to fit your gears including the cleaning kitE Cleaning your camera To a pro, cleaning a D*+, is no doubt simple. 6owever, to super noobs like me, it can be a daunting task because if you4re not careful, you might ust damage those sensitive parts of the camera. (leaning lenses T 'G filters The important thing about cleaning lenses is prevention. (leaning the sensor If you4re a noob, most people would recommend you to send your camera to a professional for cleaning the sensor rather than doing it by yourself. The sensor is a very sensitive piece of equipment and if you do it improperly, you might ust damage the sensor. /ou also risk e&posing your camera4s inner workings to dust if you open it at home. )aintenance after beach session, rain, etc.... Th& to wtm.-<> for the following contributionD Canon DSL+ &iew4inder Dust Cleaning SourceF httpD33shimworld.wordpress.com3<..H3.A3<=3...7ii7viewfinder3 /oteF 0ach (anon D*+, )odel might be different (eg =..D will need to dismantle the whole black bracket before taking out the glass) DSL+ Sensor Cleaning using Dry (ay SourceF httpD33www.naturescapes.net3php""-3viewtop...:UviewPprevious /oteF If rocket blower doesn4t work, a normal si9e lenspen +8:3mini pro (need not lenspen sensorklear) can do the ob for medium sticky dust, the only con is it might not able to clean the corner dust 0nstructionsF B Clic) to show Soiler - clic) again to hide""" C This post has been edited by )marcD 2pr :H <.:., :<D=: 8) kmarc Man <: <.:., .?D-< 8) *how posts by this member only N 8ost O= Technology is too slowE ;roupD 0lite 8ostsD ?,??: ,atings earnedD 67, C1 DSL+ - Storage Storing your camera and lenses If you4re not using your camera for e&tended periods of time, it is advisable to store your camera in a suitable place. In our country where the climate is humid, the best place to store it is in a dry bo&. (hat is a dry 'oxG 2 dry bo& (T dry cabinet) is a dehumidifying system which reduces the humidity (the amount of water vapor in the air) in the bo&. 'sage of dry bo&es basically prevent fungal growth on your camera3lenses and also prolongs the lifespan of your equipment. There4s a few reputable brand in )alaysiaD :) 2I8% 6- ,atings givenD 67, 6- MoinedD )ay <..? 5romD *ibu <) 0ureka -) *undry The optimal level of relative humidity (,6) for your D*+, should be around <6- <=H. (as compared to indoor surroundings which is about ,6 ?.VQ (up to A.VQ on rainy daysE)) Take a look at the table belowD *ource D httpD33shashinki.com3shop3aipo7digital7ser...aa=::@eH..dH-d< To be on the safe side, due to the Q7:V variation in settings, it is recommended to set the dry bo&4s ,6 to 7 <8-<9H 6ere4s some picture of dry bo&esD *ource D httpD33www.9haipo.com3en3products.htmlFpro...DV<.#(V<.*eries 8lease note that dry bo& is preferable only if you don4t use your D*+, regularly. If you use your camera frequently (at least once a week), the chance of getting fungus on your D*+, is uncommon. (hat$s so great a'out fungus growthG If fungus grows on your lens, it might ust eat into your lens coating and cause permanent damage by etching into the lens. If you ever do see signs of fungal growth, it is important that you get professional help as soon as possible. 7 If you catch the fungus growth early, the lens elements can be cleaned and the damaged repaired 7 If it is too late, you can more or less say bye7bye to your lens. The damage is irreversible and permanent, leading to poorer image quality when you shoot pictures with the affected lens 5ungus growth also applies to your camera4s sensor. 4acts a'out fungus and DSL+ (>)D )ost ideal condition for fungus growth :)6umidity level W>.V 7 8eak growing rate around @.7H.V humidity (which is the common humidity level for our climate) <) Dark places -) *tagnant air =) Temperature between :.7-> degrees celcius 0asily infected places :) (amera bags <) *tore rooms 0mortant D Do not keep your D*+, in your carry bag as a storage bag. 'nless you live in a very dry, low7humidity place, the stagnant air and moisture might ust promote fungal growth. 6ere4s an e&le of fungus growing on lensesD *ourceD :) httpD33www.sgcamerastore.com3D,/7(abinet32...73prodS<@..html <) httpD33www.iantan.net3<..H3.=3what7does7ha...7your7dslr.html 0&le of what happens when you store your D*+, in your camera bag in the cupboard for e&tended periods of timeD httpD33www.penta&forums.com3forums3penta&7...7equipment.html (hat if 0 can$t afford a dry 'oxG 7 )ost enthusiast would say you4re lying as you could afford to buy a D*+,EEE 7 If you4re equipment gets fungal growth, the cost of servicing and repair might be more than the cost of the dry bo&. 2nyway, if you4re really cash tight and don4t think a dry bo& is necessary, there are some alternatives to dry bo&es. a) 2ir7tight container Q dehumidifier3dessicant packs (your own DI/ dry bo&) b) ;ood storage practices c) *unbath your lenses d) 5lash the lens using powerful flash a) Air-tight container + dehumidifier/dessicant packs 2 cheaper alternative is to buy an air7tight container and a dehumidifier like the !Thirsty 6ippo! or silica dessicant packs3gels. These cheap alternatives don4t cost much but in the long run (over a few years), it might add up to a significant amount of money spent. 2nother better alternative is using !+eusa'le! *ilica gel packets that are usually sold by camera shops. These items can be recycled by heating them in the oven. This is what Thirsty 6ippo looks likeD *ilica gels D ,eusable silical gel D httpD33www.filmtools.com3silgelselin.html httpD33www.filmtools.com3pesigel:>.html httpD33www.desiccantsonline.com3inde&.phpF...iew(atUcatIdP<> 6ere4s my temporary custom7made DI/ dry bo&D There are a few problems with this methodD :) The humidity level in the bo& will be unregulated and the thirsty hippo might suck too much moisture. This may make the rubber seals on your D*+, turn hard and crack. 7 one way to reduce this risk is to open the bo& regularly, maybe once a week (or even more frequent) <) /ou have to replace the dehumidifier3dessicants regularly depending on how long they last -) 5or long7term usage (in terms of years), you might spend money close to or above the cost of a small dry bo& b) Good storage practices Must in case you don4t use a drybo& and don4t use the air7tight container method, it is important to have good storage practices for your equipmentsD :) Don4t store in darkness (e.g. store in a glass cabinet ensuring lots of indirect3direct light) <) 0nsure the cabinet has a good air7flow -) Ceep as far away as possible from leather or uncoated wood F Don4t store with 'G filter in place (as 'G light from sunlight will kill any fungus) c) Sunbath your enses /eah, that4s right. /ou can sunbath your lenses (#%T the camera bodyEEE ) The 'G light will kill the fungus (remember to take out your 'G filterE) 6ere4s how you do itD 7 8lace under the sun 7 lens only (do #%T attach the camera body) 7 %nce a week (maybeF) 7 Duration F !isad"antage 7 may dry up the rubber faster (reduce lifespan by making the rubber hard and cracked) 7 may promote grease migration within the lens that could lead to oil on the aperture blades Important D This method is rarely practiced and not generally talked about in photography forums. Do it at your own risk and I will not be blamed for any damagesEEE "etter do your own DI/ dry bo&. d) #ash the ens using powerfu fash 5lash the lens 7 use a powerful flash e.g. f=<, f>A ;enerates heat that kills the fungus 6ere4s how you do itD 7 2im your flash gun directly into the lens (without the body attached) 7 <7- flashes is enough to kill or slow the fungus growth 7 %nce a week (maybeF) 7 *upposedly safer than sunbath but less effective *torage 7 lens on or offF In actual fact, it doesn4t matter if you leave the lens on or take it off. 6owever, it is advisable to keep the lens on due to the following reasonsD :) /our D*+, is ready to be used once you take it out <) There4s less chance of introducing dust into the camera during the lens attachment3removal process *torage 7 battery 8lease refer to subsection !D1 Li-0on 'attery ac)s! for further info 2dditional subsection #aturally, you should not put your D*+, under the hot sun or in your car under that sun for prolonged periods of time as it may damage your camera or lenses. *tated in the my D*+, manualD 8,0(2'TI%# Do not use3store the camera in the following placesD 7 In an e&tremely hot, dry or humid place. In places such as in a car parked in the sun, the camera body may become deformed shocking.gif and this may cause a malfunction. 0ven with dry bo& 7 if shooting in e&treme conditions e.g. rainy day shooting (,6 H.Q), seaside 7 can also sunbath This post has been edited by )marcD )ar := <.:., .AD<< 2) kmarc Man <: <.:., .?D-@ 8) *how posts by this member only N 8ost O> Technology is too slowE D1 Li-0on 'attery ac)s ;roupD 0lite 8ostsD ?,??: ,atings earnedD 67, 6- ,atings givenD 67, 6- MoinedD )ay <..? 5romD *ibu 5acts you should know about +i7Ion batteries (::)D 51 %sually ha!e a 966-=66 discharge/charge cycles 7 2 JDischarge3charge cycleK means a single cycle of depleting followed by a re7charge until :..V of battery charge (i.e. one cycle of depleting to .V and then charge to :..V). 7 If you consume >.V of your battery on day :, recharge to :..V at night, and do the same thing on day <, then you would have ust finished up one charge cycle of its battery life (:>) 81 The 'attery refers a artial discharge rather than a full discharge 7 5requent full discharges should be avoided when possible (that means using the camera until the battery goes dead or .V charge) 7 Instead, charge the battery more often 7 2 reference (for phone +i7Ion batteries) recommends charging once the battery has used3discharged to around >7:.V of total charge (:<) 91 There is no memory effect for Li-0on 'atteries 7 ,echarging a partially charged +i7Ion battery does not cause harm as it has no memory effect 7 5requent recharging does not shorten the battery life more than normal usage would (:>) <1 A!oid allowing the 'attery to discharge comletely :5D1 7 +i7ion batteries actually include special circuitry to protect the battery from damage due to overcharging or undercharging 7 This circuit is built to protect from the damage that could result if the charge of your lithium ion battery falls too low. 7 %nce the battery goes below a certain voltage (i.e. charge falls too low), the internal safety circuit opens and the battery becomes dead (irreversibly and permanently damaged). 2gain, this is a built7in safety mechanism that prevent the battery from being recharged again. 7 *o since +ithium Ion has no Jmemory effectK, it is better to simply charge your portable device as and when you can or remember (:>) 7 This is especially true if you do not use your camera for a long time (many months), allowing the battery to slowly discharge until completely depleted. =1 0f you don$t use your camera for more than 5 wee)I remo!e the 'attery from the camera 7 to prevent self7discharge if the battery is kept in the camera 7 in e&treme cases, due to self7discharge (until the battery is almost dead), you would not be able to charge the battery anymore 7 It is basically to prevent the battery from being discharged completely >1 *ot en!ironment 7 2void using a fully charged battery in a hot environment for e&tended periods of time as a fully charge battery can go up to =>4c during operation ?1 Cold :freeJingA1 en!ironment 7 "atteries do not function as well and run down faster in cold environments3weather. 7 To prevent this, keep you batteries warm by either carrying your camera under your coat or carry your spare batteries in your pocket so that your body heat can keep them warm (:=) @1 Li-0on 'atteries ha!e a certain life-san 7 The fact is, +i7ion batteries starts dying the moment it leaves the factoryE (:>) 7 The actual life7span of an unused +i7ion battery can vary but it can be e&pected to irreversibly lose <.V of the total charge every year from its original date of manufacture (:>, :?, :H) 7 6ence, 7777 if you have a spare battery, don4t keep it stored for years. 'se it interchangeably with your current battery 7777 don4t simply buy <nd hand +i7ion batteries. (heck the manufacture date 7777 don4t buy !spare! batteries ust in case you need it in the future. *ave the money and buy it only when you need it 7 +i7Ion batteries lose some of their capacity after one year and may fail after < or more years even when they are not in use (:-) 7 %nce the battery has worn out, there are no way to make it work again D1 Storage 7 +ithium7ion batteries can hold a charge for many months (they have a self7discharge rate of >7:.V)(:H) 7 2s mentioned before, if you4re planning to store your camera for prolonged periods, remember to take out the batteries 7 5or prolonged storage, keep the battery at @.7A.V charge level in a cool dry environment 7 /ou can also store the batteries in a refrigerator as it has been found to greatly e&tend the shelf life (but don4t free9e itEEE)(:A) 777 0nsure it is kept dry in the fridge (e.g. in an air7tight container). +ong7term e&posure to moisture in the fridge can cause corrosion 777 1hen removing batteries from the refrigerator, allow them to warm up to room temperature before using them in your device This post has been edited by )marcD Man <A <.:., ::D:? 2) kmarc Man <: <.:., .?D-A 8) *how posts by this member only N 8ost O? Technology is too slowE ;roupD 0lite 8ostsD ?,??: ,atings earnedD 67, 6- 31 DSL+ 'ags #ote D Th& to ie, for his valuable help and input in improving this subsectionE There are many types of D*+, bags which can be divided into different categoriesD :) Type of material 7 +eather, cotton, 8G(, etc <) Type of brand -) Type of bag design 7 *houlder bag, sling bag, backpack, etc. 51 Tye of material I would suggest avoiding leather bags because fungus grow easier on leather and may later affect your D*+, or the lenses. 81 Tye of 'rand ,atings givenD 67, 6- MoinedD )ay <..? 5romD *ibu There are many brands available in )alaysia. These includeD 7 (rumpler (1ebsite) 7 Domke (1ebsite) 7 Cata (1ebsite) 7 +owepro (1ebsite) 7 Tamrac (1ebsite) 7 Thinktank (1ebsite) 7 "agman 7 (ompany brand e.g. *ony, (anon, #ikon, etc 91 Tye of 'ag design There are many types of D*+, bag to suit every situation. *ome D*+, bags are fashionable, some are serious work bags, some meant for transporting(plane) and some for traveling. They can be divided intoD a) *houlder bag b) *ling bag c) "ackpack d) Travel bag e) "eltpack f) 6arness and vest system 1hichever bag you choose (you may need a few bags for different circumstances), it is important to get a good bag that isD :) 1ell7padded to properly protect the contents <) "ig enough to fit all your accessories -) 6ave various comparments (that are usually adustable) so that your D*+, and lenses fit snugly in the bag (and doesn4t move around in the bag when you do move aroundE) =) *ecurity consideration (i.e. easy for thieves to steal your gears from behind if you wear a normal backpack) a) Shouder bag 2s the name suggest, it is the camera bag carried on one shoulder. *ometimes called messenger bag. 0&le as belowD *ource of picture D httpD33www.sony.com.my3product3lcs7amsc-. 5or some fashion7conscious people, shoulder bags can be a perfect fit as there are fashionable camera bags available (females onlyE). 0&le as below D *ource of picture D httpD33www.switched.com3<.:.3.<3:?3dslr7pa...7to7the7highly3 *houlder bags are generally not meant to carry ?7@ pieces of gears. Depending on the si9e, they can usually only carry a camera body, :7< lenses, flash gun, some cleaning tools and a few small e&tra items e.g. e&tra batteries. %ne thing I notice about shoulder bags is that they tend to move around as you walk about. 0ven leaning out or bending down to get something might be inconvenient as the bag will swing forward and sometimes fall out of your shoulders. #ote D There seems to be some confusion regarding the term shoulder bag and sling bag. ,efer to the !*ling bag! subsection for more understanding. Ad!antages of shoulder bag (<:)D :) (an be loaded with more gears <) 0asy to access your camera -) )ay count as a personal item which can be brought in addition to one7piece carry7on on most flights Disad!antagesD :) 2 lot of weight on one shoulder <) Dangle around during moderate activity -) Difficult to carry around during activities which required good mobility b) Sing bag *ling bag employs a style that is becoming more popular in the photography world these days. The *ling bag is worn on your back, with the strap across the front of your body. 1hen you need to access the bag, you don4t actually need to take it off. Must simply slide it underneath your arm, and rest it on your chest, where it4s easily accessible (<.). %ne good e&le is the *lingshot series from +oweproD *ource of pictures D +owepro website %nce you have used your camera, you can easily keep it back in the bag the same way you took it out. /ou can also put the bag directly hori9ontal in front of you and use it as a stabili9ing platform where you can rest both your elbows on the bag. This minimi9es shake when taking pictures. *lingshot reviewsD *lingshot :..21 *lingshot <.<21 *lingshot -..21 Ad!antages of a slingbagD :) (omfortable and easy to move around (like a backpack) <) 0asy to access your camera3gears without taking off the bag -) %pening for access to camera may be difficult for thieves to steal the camera while wearing the bag Disad!antages :) 1eight distribution not as good as backpack (but still quite good) <) (apacity usually not as big as backpack c) $ackpack "ackpack are e&cellent for users who need to carry the camera and their There are many choices of backpacks available. They are usually built to contain adustable compartments to store your camera3accessories. Their si9es can range from small to large si9es D *mall (-&- compartments), big (-&=) and huge (-&>). *ome has laptop compartment, raincoat, and tripod straps (to carry tripod along) which is more preferable for enthusiast. 2n e&le of -&= backpack (- rows & = columns)D and the amount of gear to carry Ad!antages (<:) of a backpackD :) +argest possible capacity for your gears <) (omfortable distribution of weight -) ;reatest mobility for activity (arms are free tooE) Disad!antagesD :) Difficult to get your camera, backpack must be removed <) 1orking with gears is uncomfortable, usually need to put down the backpack -) ;ears not in sight, higher risk of being robbedEE =) ,arely counts as a personal item on flights d) %ra"e bag *ome people use backpacks to transport their gear in long distance, some uses specially designed bags like the thinktank4s 2irport *ecurity series, they cost a lot, but they definately protect ur gears in long flight. it allow u to bring almost all your gears to shooting location, unlike backpack, they cant really carry on your back, because with all the gear u carry, they easily weight over <.kg(hence, these bag usually coems with troey), which is not good for your back. handle the back and your (human)body with care. e) $et pack "elt packs are worn at the waist (like a belt). Their si9es vary and can be large enough to hold a D*+,, several lenses and other smaller accessories. It is easy and comfortable to move around while wearing the belt pack. In addtion, as it is worn in front of you, it is easy to access your gears as well as preventing thieves from stealing your gears. 6owever, the bag might get in the way if you try to sit, crouch or swat down. 6ere4s an e&le of an e&ceptionally large belt packD *ource D httpD33www.thinktankphoto.com3products3spe...7belt7pack.asp& Ad!antages (<:) of a belt pack :) (omfortable distribution of weight <) 0quipment easily accessible -) "ag is visible while being worn =) ;enerally counted as a personal item and can be brought in addition to a one piece of carry7on on most flights Disad!antages :) *itting and crouching may be difficult <) 'sually have to remove while sitting (unless it is a very small bag which can be pushed sideways) f) &arness and "est system They are not actually not bags but a harness and vest system like belowD but another way to carry ur gears around, usually meant to carry with you 4all time4. they are usually used by professional(with obs) like wedding photographers, because they need e&tra batteries and changing lens on the spot. harness and vest are not essential for normal photographer, but many would love to wear one to look cool$) 777777777777777777777777 Camera 'ags that comes with your camera %n many occasion, you4ll get a free camera bag that comes along with your D*+, but might not be big enough or good enough to protect your D*+,. In that case, it would be wise to get a better one. "ags that are bundled with a D*+, (if they don4t give 5%( (free7of7charge), bargain for itE) are usually simple, small and enough for the current camera3gears that you own at that time. ie,4s 5%( bag 6ere4s a picture of the simple cheap 5%( bag (some of us call it the china bag) 6ere is the amount of gears it can store (I missplace my divider, but it give some rough idea how much gear u can store inside) (X I am suppose to throw in a lenspen and blower, or some cleaning kits) )any people hate this type of square bag(hey, it's free anyway), as it doesn4t stay at one place when u carry it, it swings around, and it is very obvious a camera bag that attracts unwanted attention. kmarc4s 5%( bag *mall bag with lousy design might also make it difficult to store or retrieve your D*+, from the bag. 5or e&le, my free D*+, bag is a small bag with Jis(avoid this at all cause!)as below (left picture). I found that it is difficult to insert my camera into the bag without eventually getting the camera scratched by the 9ip on entry or on removal. )y solution was to actually get a soft cloth (that4s my old ;uess t7shirtEE) that line the interior of the bag and protrude out on both sides of the bag to protect my camera on insertion and removal (right picture). #ote D )y D*+, actually came with a better shoulder bag which cost ,)<=.. 6owever, I didn4t like it and requested for another bag which is ,):<.. The vendor actually gave me a ,):.. discountEEE Choosing the right 'ag for you" *ome of u (seasonal pro) might own >7@ bags, some own <, i (ie,) owns = type of bags. choosing a right one is important. i do not carry "ig "ackpack every time i go out, (i would love to own a fashion sling bag enough for a body and < lens)... 0ntroduction Thank /ou, for visiting the internets most comprehensive web site on the subect of Digital *+, *ensor (leaning. 1e have put this site together to help educate the consumer on how to clean the ((D3()%* sensor in their Digital *+, (ameras. 1ith so much disinformation out there along with some trying to scare you into buying their supplies, we are here to clear the smoke and demystify the subect. %he difference between this site and others is' These instructions are written by a (ertified 8hotographic (onsultant U 8rofessional (amera ,epairman, (urt 5argo, and (amera ,epairs most published author, +arry +yells Developed from real world e&periences and written in layman4s terms 1e are a regular business with a store front 1ith an appointment, we will even show you in person how to accomplish this task (free of charge) 1e want you to be able to clean /%', sensor no matter where you have bought your supplies from 1e don4t offer information on only one method, we offer information on ALL maor methods 1e don4t represent any one manufacturer and we sell no advertising to help keep our information unbiased %ur reason for developing this web site isn4t to try and belittle the manufacturers, or take business away from the repair shops. %ur goal is to provide you with the knowledge and resources needed to clean your camera4s sensor on your own. /%' will have to decide if you have the skill to do this yourself, or if it would be more appropriate in the hands of a professional. The task of cleaning your sensor is one that needs to be accomplished on a regular basis. ,egular for some may mean daily cleanings and for others, annually. )ost of the manufacturers recogni9e this and are also looking for ways to have you accomplish this successfully on your own. They know it isn4t economical or feasible for you to be shipping your camera to them every time you get dust. /ou can e&pect changes in the future from some of these manufacturers. In Mapan, #ikon, has already started selling a swab and methanol, sensor cleaning kit to consumers, but they have yet to make them available in the '*2. The independent repair shops would love to have this e&tra business, they understand the need for regular sensor cleanings. *ome, who do not feel comfortable, should have a repair shop accomplish this for you, but there are many of you out there who can accomplish this on your own with ust a little bit of guidance. 2s professional camera repairmen, we tend to error on the side of caution although not to the e&tent of (anon or #ikon as we want you to have a clean sensor with the lowest chance of failure. 1e aren4t necessarily the first to endorse a new method or product as we do not want you to be the guinea pig for testing. 1e call it cleaning the sensor, but in reality you never actually clean the sensor itself, but a low pass filter mounted in front of the sensor. #ot everyone is capable of cleaning their own sensors, we all have different strengths and weaknesses. If you have a steady hand and a good mechanical aptitude, you may well be capable of accomplishing this task successfully. I don4t want to scare you, but if you don4t do it right, you can mess up your camera. If you still don4t feel comfortable after reading all the instructions, by all means don4t attempt this. Take your camera to a professional. 2s the old saying goes, !there are many ways to skin a cat! and the same goes for cleaning digital camera sensors. The method the maority of the camera repair industry use is the !swab and methanol! method. 2s a professional camera repairman and the owner of multiple Digital *+, (ameras, I too feel that this is the best and most consistent method. The ultimate level of products to use for accomplishing this method are made by 8hotographic *olutions Inc., but it is also not the cheapest. 1ith the recent introduction of the *ensor "rush it too has become popular with photographers world wide. If your checkbook isn4t as fat as others, we will show you how to save some money by using alternate products. 1e have also provided you with links to other internet sites that offer opinions on the subect. 2lthough the sponsor of this site does sell all the tools and supplies needed to accomplish the task at hand, we will show you other ways to save money, and provide you with alternative sources for ALL of the needed supplies. ,ou need to read at least the first se!en sections of this site B34O+3 you attemt the cleaning" /es, I know it is a guy thing where we read the instructions after we start having problems, but from one guy to another, you really need to read all of this 5I,*T. 5or the gals out there, I know you will read first. 1e are providing you with this information to help keep you out of the pitfalls associated with cleaning your camera4s sensor, but we accept /O L0AB0L0T, and must demand that you attempt any of this AT ,O%+ O(/ +0SK Care and Maintenance Introduction Despite how meticulous and careful I am with my equipment, it always ama9es me how quickly dust, fingerprints, and overall grime builds up on and inside my camera bodies and even on lenses. (asual photographers will probably not immediately notice problems with dirt until little specs begin showing up on final images. %ftentimes it is when I start seeing little specs of dust in clear areas of my images (which is usually in areas of the sky on landscape photographs) that I know that my image sensor (or image sensor) needs to be cleaned. Despite improved technology to remove dust from camera sensors$ a routine of cleaning and maintenance are necessary to avoid common dust related problems. 5ortunately with a little care and common sense, most cleaning tasks can be performed relatively ine&pensively with over7the7counter products. In this guide, I am going to walk you through a few of the steps that I take to maintain and keep my (anon digital single lens refle& cameras clean and ready for the ne&t shoot. Disclaimer I have to add the short disclaimer that all the information provided in this free guide should be performed carefully and at your own risk. There is a risk anytime you e&pose the inside of your camera and make contact with the image sensor. This guide is a walk7through of the steps I take to clean my own equipment and is not intended to be all7inclusive. I cannot be responsible for damage that occurs to your camera during cleaning. (onsider sending your camera to the manufacturer for maintenance if you feel uncomfortable with any part of this article. 2lways check with your cameraBs manufacturer for specific information on cleaning and maintenance. When hould !ou Clean !our Camera" I can only answer this question based on my own e&perience. 8hotographers will have to establish a routine that works best for them. The main issue is that dust enters digital single lens refle& cameras and settles on the image sensor during the time the photographer removes and switches lenses. 'nless you choose to never remove the lens from your camera, dust is an unavoidable part of digital *+, photography. I clean my camera (and particularly the image sensor) when I start seeing a significant amount of dust particles and other foreign material on my images. I primarily see dust specs on images shot at higher f7stops (e.g. f7<<). )y e&perience has been that it is much more difficult to detect foreign specs on images at lower (wide7open) f7stops primarily because dust and other material are thrown out of focus. This is similar to how you can shoot through a chain link fence at lower, wide7open f7stops and make the links virtually disappear. I once ran into an online tutorial that suggested that digital photographers should clean their image sensor every weekE 5rankly I cannot imagine a situation where I would need to clean my sensor that often. 0ven professional photographers switching between lenses multiple times a day should not have to clean the image sensor that often. I would even go as far as to suggest that the problem of dust probably plagues amateur photographers more so than professionals because they typically have access to only one camera body. )ost professional photographers work with several cameras and varying focal length lenses for speed$ therefore they are not likely to remove lenses as often as photographers who are limited to one camera body. Dust Can Usually Be Found in Clear Areas of an Image( (leaning the image sensor should be on an as7needed basis only to minimi9e the risk of scratching or damaging it. ,emember, each time you e&pose your cameraBs sensor to the outside world you are putting it at risk of collecting even more dust and airborne matter (including moisture). 0ach time you physically touch the sensor with a cleaning brush or any other tool you risk scratching, gouging, and even cracking it. If you change lenses with any degree of regularity, dust will eventually make its way onto your final images forcing you to use a program like 8hotoshop to remove it. 0very serious digital photographer should know how to use the cloning and healing tools available in 8hotoshop to remove foreign obects that show up in final images. What is a Charged#Coupled De$ice %image sensor& Any'ay" )ost of todayBs high7resolution digital single lens refle& cameras come equipped with a charged7 coupled device (image sensor) image sensor (rather than a ()%*). 2 (DD is the equivalent to digital film. 6igh7resolution image sensors are made up of millions of tiny cells that convert incoming light into electrons. 2n in7camera processor reads the value of each cell and coverts it to a digital value (binary ones and 9eros). image sensors are only able to measure the intensity of the light that falls on each of the cells. ,ed, green, and blue colored filters are placed over the image sensor to render color. 2 method called interpolation combines all three colors to produce a full color image. Image ensor from a Canon !"D. It is worth noting that you are actually cleaning the filter above the image sensor rather than the image sensor itself (see J(leaning the Image *ensorK below). 1hy #ot *end /our (amera to the )anufacturer for (leaningF )ost manufacturers can clean your camera (including the image sensor) and send it back to you. The main draw back to this is that it can be very e&pensive and the turn around time can be lengthy. 5or e&le, letBs say that your camera manufacturer charges Y>. for a routine cleaning (the cost can be much higher than that). /ou will also need to pay to have it packaged, insured, and shipped. 2ll of this can really add up if you need to send your camera in every few months. The upside to sending your camera in is that the manufacturer assumes the risk of cleaning and has all of the necessary equipment to do it safely. In the end it comes down to how often you use your camera and how comfortable you are with doing the cleaning yourself. If you choose to have someone else clean your camera for you, be sure to send it to retailers authori9ed by the manufacturer. Camera (andling Practices Ceeping your camera clean begins with everyday camera handling practices. This is important because establishing good camera handling habits will help minimi9e the amount of dust and other foreign obects that your camera is e&posed to. It is never a good idea to e&pose the inside of your camera body for long periods of time. +enses should be switched quickly and in clean environments. This generally comes down to planning. Think for a moment before you remove lenses. 2re you in a place that is relatively dry and cleanF It is unlikely that you will always have a choice when you are switching between lenses in the field$ however it might be necessary to move a little bit to minimi9e your e&posure. 5or e&le, if you are shooting near a waterfall, move as far away as possible from the falls itself to avoid e&posing the inside of your camera to mist and airborne moisture. The same is true of sand and dust. If you are shooting on a farm where there is a lot of dirt and dust flying, move to a quieter place before removing your lens. %n a fairly regular basis I get the opportunity to fly in small two and four seat helicopters to shoot aerial photographs. 5rom e&perience I have learned that it is e&tremely important to avoid switching between lenses while flying or even while on the ground when the rotor blades are spinning. The reason for this is simply that the air is moving so quickly through the cabin that it is impossible to avoid dust and other airborne matter from entering the camera during the brief moment it takes to switch to a new lens. 2gain this really comes down to planning. 1hen I am in the air, I try to take two cameras with me. I take one with a wide7angle lens and another for telephoto 9ooming. Doing this eliminates the need to switch lenses and the risk of sucking in airborne particulates. Dust can easily get suc#ed into your camera while flying" ;enerally the best places to switch camera lenses are inside (e.g. home or studio) or in the cabin of a vehicle if you are in the field. 2nother option is to place your camera into a clean gym bag or backpack and switch lenses (which I would only reserve for e&treme circumstances). %bviously you cannot always pick the location where you will need to switch lenses$ however these are the steps I suggest taking to minimi9e e&posure to the image sensorD 1herever you are at, have the replacement lens out and ready to go. 2 common mistake people make is to remove the lens from the camera first and then fumble around trying to find a replacement lens in the camera bag. I usually remove the rear lens cap and orient the red3white lens alignment dot so that I can quickly align it with my inde& finger when I go to attach it to my camera body. #e&t, since dirt and grime fall downward, turn your camera body upside down (with the camera lens facing toward the ground) and remove the lens. %nce the lens has been removed, quickly pickup the second lens so that your inde& finger is aligned with the red3white dot and attach it to the camera body. The whole process should only take a few seconds. )aking this a practice should significantly reduce the amount of time your image sensor is e&posed to the outside elements. )outine Cleaning 0very couple of weeks I pull out all of my camera gear so that I can wipe it down and look for possible damage. I start by powering down my cameras to reduce any static electricity that may have built up on the electronics. #e&t I blow air into the inside compartment of each camera with a hand pump blower. It is worth mentioning that you should never use canned air or any device that blows high7pressured air on your camera. It is also a very bad idea to blow air into your camera from your mouth. 2 hand pump bulb blower will not remove foreign particles that have been stuck onto your cameraBs sensor, but it is usually effective in removing small bits of dust that reside inside the camera compartment, around the lens ring, and even on the sensor. I typically remove the lens, turn the camera body upside down and squee9e several bursts of air into the direction of the mirror and image sensor sensor. I am very careful to keep the tip of the blower outside the camera and not to enter the main compartment. /ou can blow air directly onto your sensor by using the sensor lock up feature available on most of todayBs D*+, cameras. #e&t I remove the front and rear caps of all my lenses and blow any dust that has settled on the glass. I then use a small, clean lens tissue (designed for glass) to wipe away any remaining dust or smudges. I also wipe down the outside of each lens and camera body with a clean cotton diaper (itBs softE) prior to returning them to my camera bag. I go through this routine every couple of weeks or after being in the field for e&tended periods. (onsider wearing lint free gloves during this cleaning process. Cleaning the Image ensor 2s I mentioned earlier, I only physically clean an image sensor when I begin seeing specs of dust on my images. I do not subscribe to the idea of cleaning the sensor as part of a regular routine. I prefer to clean it only as necessary. I might even wait until I see more than ust a few anomalies on my images before taking action and utili9e cloning tools instead. 8hotographing a piece of white paper or a white computer screen is an effective way to determine how dirty your sensor is. I use a product called *ensor *wab, which includes sterile, flat7tipped swabs and cleaning solution (usually sold separately). 2 bo& of twelve swabs can be purchased for around Y=>. The cleaning solution is about Y:.. This should cover about twelve sensor cleanings. If you consider this cost for a moment, you will quickly see why learning how to clean the image sensor yourself can save you quite a bit of money over time. %nce you are ready to get started, find a clean, quiet place to work uninterrupted. This is not something you want to do with young children around or in an environment with lots of distractions. I unusually clean my camera equipment while sitting at a table with bright overhead light. (onsider wearing lint free gloves during this process. 5irst I turn my camera on and navigate to the mirror lock up feature in the main menu. 2fter locking up the mirror, I remove the lens and e&pose the image sensor (image sensor). /ou can identify the image sensor by looking toward the rear of the inner compartment. The image sensor should look like a small, flat rectangle. This is the area that we are going to focus in on (no pun intendedE) for cleaning. I place two or three drops of the cleaning solution onto the tip of a new swab and gently wipe across the image sensor hori9ontally from left to right (if you are looking at the back of the camera). It is important not to drip too much cleaning solution onto the swab. 2lso be careful not to use too much pressure with the swab. I press down on the swab ust enough to slightly bend the tip against the sensor. 2fter cleaning your sensor a few times, you will get a good sense for how much pressure is necessary. I suggest erring on the side of caution and use very slight pressure the first time through. ensor wab by $hotogra%hic olutions, Inc& 2fter making the first sweep, I turn the swab over and make a second sweep in the same direction, this time using the dry side (or opposite side) of the swab. If you have a full si9e sensor, you may need to make several overlapping passes. I do not recommend wiping back7and7forth (sweeping right to left and back again) with the swab as you could create streaks. It should only be necessary to make a couple passes with the swab to remove most dust related material on the image sensor. 'sing too much solution or making too many passes risks creating streaks and cementing dust onto the sensor. 2lso remember that your swab will likely pick up quite a bit of foreign material and that you do not want to redistribute this onto the sensor by overdoing it. It is usually prudent to make ust a few passes with the swab and then take a few test images to see if your sensor is clean. /ou can always go back with a new swab and run through the cleaning process again. It is worth noting that the main ingredient of the cleaning solution is methanol, which is highly flammable. #ever clean your camera near open flames or heat sources. /ou are also unable to take methanol based cleaning solution with you on an airplane when you travel. Conclusion +earning how to properly clean your cameraBs image sensor can save you time and money while minimi9ing unwanted dust specs from showing up in your final images. 1ith a little maintenance and care your camera should last many years to come. *ow to Ta)e Care of a DSL+ By jennablack, eHow Member kee$ your S0, takin' %eautifu $hotos on'er 7ser6Su%mitted 1rtice Digital *ingle +ens ,efle& (D*+,) camera ownership requires much less technical know7how than even film *+,s, but proper maintenance and storage can keep your camera and lenses working beautifully for much longer, and can save you hundreds in repair and replacement costs down the line. Difficuty< 9oderatey =asy Instructions 1# 1 2lways store your camera in a hard case. *oft camera bags are light and convenient77great for day trips and hikes. "ut at the end of the day (and especially when traveling) your camera should always go in a hard case. 2ccidents happen all the time, and when push comes to shove a little neoprene (or worse, a layer of poly fill) won4t keep your e&pensive equipment safe. 2 hard case can stand up to a lot more abuse. 5or e&le, I was in a terrible car accident a few years ago, and my camera (in a hard case) was in the front seat with me, sitting on the floor. 1hen the engine block was pushed back it shattered my femur... but my camera case, and the gear inside, was fine. Three years later, the case is still in use. It did not require professional repair. The accepted standard for safety in hard cases is 8elican. 8elican cases are air7 and water7tight, they float, and the cases and their contents are guaranteed for life against everything e&cept meteor showers and small children. 2# 2 2lways cap your lens when you4re not actually taking a picture. 2ny time your camera is set down or there4s a lull in action, put a lens cap on your lens. +enses become dirty and scratched easily, and can be very e&pensive to replace. 2 scratched lens can result in scratches or spots appearing on photographs. 2dditionally a lens cap can absorb damage if something hits the lens or if the camera is dropped, but without the cap the lens itself is more likely to shatter. ># > Ceep a lens cloth, brush, and cleaning solution with you whenever you have your camera. Ceeping lenses clean helps prevent scratches from particles and keeps images crisp. 2lways use cleaning supplies intended for cameras, and make sure to follow the directions on packages. ?# ? Ceep a clear or 'G filter on lenses at all times. 5ilters cover the lens completely, so anything that would scratch the lens would instead scratch the filter. If the filter becomes too scratched to use, ust replace it. (lear filters are generally very ine&pensive, especially compared to the cost of replacing the lens itself. 5# 5 Ceep camera equipment out of intense heat and damp weather. 6eat can cause lenses to break and can of course damage any electronics. #ever leave your camera in a hot car for long periods, and if you feel your camera or lenses becoming hot after a day of shooting in the sun, try to get into a cooler area and let them resume normal temperature. If you live in a very humid area, make sure you store your equipment in airtight cases. 1hen shooting in fog, rain, or near bodies of water where splashing might occur, use an all7weather bag or underwater housing. 2t the very least, put a gallon7si9ed 9iplock bag around your camera with a hole for the lens. @# @ *end your camera body in for professional cleaning occasionally. If you shoot often, I4d recommend at least once a year, more if you shoot outdoors often or under harsh conditions. ,ead more< *ow to (ake 5are of a DS0, | e*ow#com htt$<--www#ehow#com-howA?BC00C5Acare6dsr#htmDi&//1=o9d5JEC