MGA KAGAMITAN NG KARPINTERO

Hand tools get their power from your muscles. Theyre power tools, but not electrical
power. Here is a pretty comprehensive list of hand tools that every woodworker should
think about having in his shop.

#1: The Claw Hammer
Lets start with perhaps the most basic tool in every household the claw hammer. The
claw on one side of the head should be well counter balanced by the finish head, which
should be somewhat rounded. The other kind of head is the waffle-head. Most
commonly used in construction, it leaves a distinctive waffle mark on the wood when
you drive the nail. This, of course, is not the proper nail for woodworking.
A poorly balanced claw hammer will twist in your hand, making it difficult to drive nails
properly. You normally grip a claw hammer with your hand at the back of the grip, letting
the weight of the head do most of the work. All you have to do is direct the driving
surface toward the right nail, sparing the ones on your hand.
The most commonly purchased claw hammer is the 20 oz size. Its heavy enough to
easily drive nails, but easily manipulated when pulling nails. While wooden handles are
picturesque, they may not stand up to the strain if you have to pull a lot of nails.
Hammers with a steel handle, or even fiberglass, will be stronger. However, these wont
absorb the vibrations from driving nails the way a hickory handle will. Youll also need to
make sure the fiberglass and metal handles have a rubberized grip for control and
comfort. If youre going to be driving a lot of nails, the wooden handled hammer will be
better for reducing stress on your hand, and wrist, too.


#2: The Tape Measure
The next important hand tool for the woodworker is an accurate tape measure. Get a
retractable one that is at least 25 feet long. Any longer than that, and you start having
problems getting it to roll back up. Since measurements on large scale projects can be
very susceptible to even the most minute measurement variations, youll want to make
sure the hook or tab at the end of the is firmly attached, with no give. When they get
loose, youll have as much as 1/8 variation in your measurements. This can add up to
some severe accuracy problems in the long run.

#3: The Utility Knife
A good utility knife is another asset for the woodworker. There are many different
kinds, but the kind that uses disposable blades is the most common. The blade retracts
into the grip for safety. The woodworker will use the utility knife when cleaning out
mortise joints or scribing wood, as well as many other uses.





#4: The Layout Square
A layout square, or combination square come in 6 and 12 sizes. Most woodworkers
use the 6 model, simply because its easiest to carry around. Also, most of the stock
youll use will be no bigger than 6 wide, so 12 is overkill. The layout square is a
triangle that you can use to mark square cuts on stock. Once you measure the length of
the cut, you line up the layout square with the edge of the board. The short side will give
you a straight, square cut across the end grain. You can also measure off angles with
the layout square. This helps when youre trying to measure for a bevel on a table saw,
or marking a cut for a miter saw. You can even use your layout square to determine an
existing angle. Just be sure to buy one made of metal. The plastic ones are not only
fragile, they can warp, making them pretty useless.













#5: The Chisel
An assortment of chisels should be part of every workbench. Chisels are not just for
wood carvers. Any woodworker will need chisels to clean out joints and saw cuts. Look
for chisels made of High-alloy carbon steel or chromium-vanadium alloyed steel.
Hardwood grips are best, especially if they have metal caps on them. This will keep the
end of the handle from becoming mal-formed when you hammer on it.
Youll need a variety of sizes in increments from to at least 1 . The smallest
chisels are best for mortise work. The and 1 will be best for door hinges, and the 1
works well for chipping out. You can even get a corner chisel that cuts a notch out of
the wood with the blow of a hammer, much like a hole punch.
Most chisels are beveled on the 2 sides and on the cutting edge, but specialty chisels
may only be beveled at the cutting edge. This bevel will be at 20 to 25 degrees down
the length of the blade on once side, and flat on the backside. The blade will be
between 4 and 7 long. Make sure you get chisels with a grip that fits your hand. If the
grip is too small, you wont be able to hold the chisel steady as you work. Be sure to use
a mallet or wood hammer when you work, so that you dont destroy the head on your
chisel. Keep track of the edge caps, keep them sharp, and oil the metal now and then
after youve used them, and they should be good for years. If you dont have the edge
caps, get a roll to keep them in. This will prevent them from bouncing around in your
tool box drawers and getting damaged.
Using your chisels involves both hands. This allows for power and control of the chisel
as it pares away the wood. If you need a little umph behind the chisel, bump it with the
heel of the off hand, or strike it with a mallet. A claw hammer will damage the butt end of
your chisel, eventually splitting it if you abuse it too often.
When you sharpen your chisel, you may want to use stones rather than a grinder. You
need a set of stones of increasingly fine grit to hone the blades properly. Start with the
coarser grade, and end with the finest grade. You may have to moisten the stone with
oil for best results. Also, remember to hone the blades away from your body.















#6: The Level
Every woodworker needs a couple of levels. You probably wont need one of the 6 foot
levels used in construction, but a 48 is a good length for many of the woodworking
projects youll do. Usually, youll also need an 8 level, too, usually known as a torpedo
level. Youll check the level and plum of your construction. Level is horizontal, and
plumb is vertical.
Most quality levels are made of either brass-edged wood or of metal. There will be a
bubble reading for level, and another one for plumb. When the bubble is exactly
between the lines, you have a level or plumb surface. You can also get string levels and
laser levels, but the woodworker will use
these types of levels the most often.












#7: The Screwdriver
Screwdrivers are another must have in the woodworkers set of hand tools. Not only
will you need Phillips and slot, or flathead screwdrivers, youll need star drivers and Torx
drivers, too. A quality construction is vital to a good set of screwdrivers. So many of
them are made out of soft metal, and the first time you put any umph behind them,
they strip out, becoming absolutely useless.
Youll need a long screwdriver with a square blade that is very heavy duty. This gives
you a lot of torque. Youll also need a small and medium slot screwdriver. For working
on cabinets or tight places in woodworking, youll need a screwdriver with a thin shank
so that you can reach screws that are inside of deep holes. This is accomplished with a
cabinet screwdriver. Get a couple of medium Phillips head screwdrivers, and a stubby
one, too, for those tight places. You may also want a ratcheting screwdriver.
If your slot screwdrivers are high quality material, youll be able to grind them flat when
they get worn. Beware, though, that too much heat will change the temper of the metal,
weakening it so that it wont drive or draw screws. By the way, some of Dads tips for
getting the most out of his screwdrivers:
1. Use the right size blade for the screw.
2. For stubborn screws, fit the driver into the screw, put as much downward
pressure as you can on the screwdriver, and strike the end with a hammer. This
more often than not will pop the screw loose. It also helps with screws that have
stripped out.
3. Put beeswax on the threads of screws before you drive screws into hardwood. If
you dont have beeswax, use soap. It makes the screws drive more easily.
4. Youll get more driving force with a shorter shank.
5. Use a crescent wrench on the blade to get more torque.
6. Some people can magnetize a screwdriver by holding it up and striking it with a
metal bar. It realigns the molecules, making it magnetic. You can also break your
screwdrivers doing this, so be careful!
7. Get a pry bar. Keep it with your screwdrivers, and every time you need a pry bar,
leave your screwdrivers alone!

#8: The Nail Set
The next hand tool every woodworker should have is a nail set.
In fact, you should have several sizes. They look like awls, and
you use them to drive nail heads into the wood so they are flush
or right below the surface. This allows you to fill the holes and
prepare for staining or painting. The nail setter will usually have
either a convex or concave surface to grip the nail better and
keep it from sliding off and marring the wood.










#9: The Sliding Bevel
If youre going to be measuring a bunch of angles,
a sliding bevel, or T Bevel, will be a handy tool.
This is adjustable, and you can lock it at the angle
you want to mark, making it much more time-savvy
to mark multiple angles.



#10: The Moisture Meter
A quality moisture meter is vital to the long-term success
of any woodworking project you put together. Lumber mills
try to dry their batches of lumber according to the intended
end product destination. That is, if wood is harvested in the
wet Northeast, but is going to be shipped to the arid
Southwest, it will be dried more than wood kept in the
Northeast for use by woodworkers. The success of your
woodworking project, from wood flooring to kitchen
cabinets to fine furniture, depends on the correct moisture
content levels of the woods you use for your area of the
country.
Some moisture meters have pins that penetrate the
surface of the wood. This can leave tiny holes that mar the
surface and require filling. Others are pin-less. They have
sensing plates that scan the wood beneath. However, not all pin-less moisture meters
are the same look for one that uses technology that is not affected by the surface
moisture on the wood, such as Wagner Meters IntelliSense Technology Moisture
Meters.
Your moisture meter should have settings on it that will account for different species of
wood. For instance, oak is a hardwood, but ebony is an even harder density wood. If
you are planning an inlay job using both types of wood, you will need to know the
moisture content levels of each of the two species so that your inlay glue joints will stay
intact. These different wood species have different specific gravities, which must be
used or programmed into the moisture meter.
Therefore, you must measure each species of wood you are using in your woodworking
project to verify that they are at the correct moisture content before you manufacture it
into your end product
#11: The Block Plane
A block plane is the key to versatility in your woodwork. You can flatten a piece of
wood, or add a curve to it, square your work. Shape or chamfer your stock using a block
plane. Once you have a piece dovetailed, you can smooth the joint with your block
pane, rather than spending endless tine sanding. Your plane can ease the edges of a
piece, taking the sharpness out of it.
It is most important to make sure the blade of the block plane is sharp. Use a little bit of
oil on the sharpening stone and hold the bevel flat against the stone. Raise the heel a
little, and hone it. It will form a burr, but thats OK. Just turn the blade over, and rub it on
the stone on the flat side. It will remove the burr. A cap screw holds the blade in place,
and this is where you adjust the depth of plane you want to cut.
If youre performing fine work, youll measure the blade at about 1/64. For more general
work, youll go with as much as 1/16. Roll the pressure from the back of the plane to
the front as you complete the cut, so that you dont end up with arching. If youre going
to plane end grain, plain both ends toward the middle to keep from tearing up the
outside edge.

#12: The Caliper
A set of calipers is a must for fine-tuning your
woodworking projects. You can even get digital
calipers, now, that leave no guesswork as to
whether you were inside or outside the line. Of
course, the metal ones are always recommended
over those made of plastic, even though the plastic
ones are cheaper.
Calipers have a double F appearance. To one side is a large F, used to measure the
outside of an object. To the other side will be a smaller f, used to measure the inside
of openings. You loosen the screw to move the lower lip of the caliper, then tighten the
screw into place when you have the caliper placed correctly.
Youll use the inside calipers to measure slot diameters, hole diameters, and dado
widths, among other things. There is also a depth gauge in the end of calipers that will
allow you to measure the depth of slots and holes. You just rest the end of the caliper
on the edge of the hole and twist the thumbscrew until the probe reaches the bottom of
the hole. Then, you can take your reading. If you need to measure the exact thickness
of something attached to a flat surface, you can use the calipers to determine the
thickness by placing the butt of the caliper end against the flat surface, and use the
inside caliper lip thats closest to your hand to record the surface of the item youre
measuring. The distance from the backside of that caliper lip to the end of the caliper is
the thickness of the piece youre measuring.
While calipers will measure up to 1/1000ths of an inch, you wont need that kind of tight
tolerance. Remember that wood is an organic material, and expands and contracts with
the relative humidity and with temperature fluctuations. Trimming everything to
1/1000ths tolerance will not leave the piece enough room to breathe.
.
#13: The Clamp
Clamps are vital to the success of any woodworking
project. Most woodworkers agree that you cant
have too many clamps. While they can get
expensive, you dont want to skimp in this area.
Youll need clamps for 45 and 90 degree joints, and
pipe clamps to reach for long stretches. You usually
purchase the pipe clamp fixtures, and insert your
own pipe into the fixtures to make a really strong
clamp to the size you need. C clamps and F clamps
are the standard, but now you can get K camps, too. The great thing about these is that
they can reach a long way into your work area and clamp things in the middle of your
workspace. Deep throated bar clamps and C clamps will help with this.
You cant get by without a selection of quick grip clamps in various sizes. These are
available with spreaders of 12 or more, all the way down to micro-mini clamps for toy
construction. An edge clamp will hold laminate trim onto the edge of a counter or table
top. A strap clamp will wrap around any shape, and pull the joints together. Spring
clamps are handy for holding a piece steady. The main difference between quick
clamps and spring clamps is that the quick clamps slide into position with one hand.
When you release them, they lock into place. Spring clamps are like big clothespins.
Hand Screw Clamps are the classic-looking wooden clamps with the awl screws that
you turn from both sides to get equal pressure. These are great for applying a lot of
pressure on tapered or sloped pieces. Assembly square clamps do just what the name
implies they help you assemble squares. You can also get bench clamps and dogs,
as well as other clamps and vises that attach to your workbench.

#14: The Jig
You dont have to measure every single cut and joint if you
have jigs. Most woodworkers make their own jigs. You usually
use a jig with a power tool, to guide the piece through the saw.
You can make a jig to cut a perfect circle. Maybe you need to
make furniture with tapered legs. A jig will accomplish this,
without the hassle of re-marking the angles on each leg. A
dovetail jig does just that it guides your wood as you make
dovetail joints.





#15: The Hand Saw
A high quality hand saw should not be
overlooked. In fact, a select collection of
hand saws may be one of the more
valuable additions to your woodworking
shop. You dont have to use a power saw
on everything in fact, you probably wont
want to. You need to be able to feel the
woods response under the saw blade, and
the saw blades response to the wood.
Besides a coping and a tenon saw, you
may want a dovetail saw and a hand miter saw, too. In fact, for many woodworkers, a
fine collection of Japanese saws is the backbone of their craft.
For general use, start out with a fretsaw for woodworkers its like a coping saw for
wood. You need a mini saw, too, for areas in which a chisel just wont work. Then, a
good tenon saw should follow, along with a miter box that you can use with the tenon
saw. Other saws, with their variety of cutting surfaces and angles, will come as the need
arises.



#16: The Feather Board
Feather boards are important for achieving smooth, quality
cuts. Youll use a feather board with all kinds of saws and
other cutting surfaces, to push the material past the cutting
edge. You can make your own feather boards, or purchase
them, instead. Most woodworkers find it easier to just make
them to suit their own needs.






#17: The Metal Detector
No, youre not looking for buried treasure with your metal
detector. Youre looking for something that could ruin
your treasures namely, your woodworking tools. It is of
vital importance to keep metal out of your cutting
surfaces, or youll ruin blades, bits, and knives on your
tools. A quick scan with a metal detector will let you know
if there is a piece of screw or nail still lodged in your
stock. Youll find out anyway, its just nice to find
out before you ruin your tools.
Furniture and Storage
Organization is important in the shop, if you want to be able to find all the fabulous tools
you are accumulating. This is where you get to build-to-suit your own furniture and work
surfaces.

#18: The Saw Horse
Saw horses, of course, are a natural in any
woodworking shop or construction site. There are
actually patterns available that you can use to build
your own stacking sawhorses. If you build your
sawhorses properly, theyll hold up to 500 lbs apiece.
Theyre even fairly cheap to build. Your saw horses
will serve countless uses around your shop, from
providing backup as you saw and drill, to extending
your work surface while using power saws.



#19: The Work Bench
Youll need a work bench, or work table in your
shop. Dont try to be noble and make do with the
table for your table saw. It wont be big enough or
stable enough, and your saw will get in the way.
You can get patterns for work benches, too, just
like with saw horses.
Your work bench can be portable, on retracting or
locking casters, or it can be fixed. Its however you
want it. There arent even any rules about
measurements, since work benches are usually
based on the amount of room you may have.
If you have the room, a double sided work bench is nice, where you can work on both
sides of the table from the center of the room, or have a partner working with you. If its
up against the wall, make sure that it doesnt get so deep that you cant reach stuff that
gets pushed toward the wall. Then it just ends up being a piled mess, and you cant
work on your work table. Its up to you as to whether you have storage under your work
bench or not. Just remember that youve got to reach everything you store under the
bench.

#20: The Tool Storage System
Tool storage is totally up to your own personal style.
Some people are just messy, and leave things piles
around. They simply remember that they left the
moisture meter on the router table. However, think about
your organizational system. You may want to build
locking cabinets or open shelves. Many woodworkers
display fasteners in Mason jars that they twist into lids that have been nailed to an
overhead board. Others have spent too many hours picking fasteners out of the
shattered remains of Mason jars, and dont like that method.
If you use a peg board for hand tools over your workbench, remember to build the
workbench narrow enough for you to reach the peg board. A rolling mechanics tool box
may be the solution to your hand tool storage, and a tackle box for fasteners. Others
have hardware store-style bins for the many pieces that accompany woodworking.
However you choose to organize your tools and accessories, remember that your time
on task is aided when you can find all of your tools. Its also easier to take care of
expensive equipment when you have easy access to it. And keeping your fasteners
sorted and easily accessible may save you a trip to the hardware store.

#21: The Shop Vac
You may not think of a shop vac as a woodworking tool, but just try to get any work
done with your saws kicking up powdery sawdust into your eyes. Now, you can go all
out, and get a built in vacuum system installed. This is much like the home vacuums
that have outlets in every room of the house. You just take a hose with you from one
room to the other, plug it in, and the vacuum does its job, taking everything to the
central vacuum receptacle.
While this may be a dream scenario, the more realistic version is the portable shop vac.
You can use one of your handy clamps listed above and clamp the hose to your saw,
vacuuming up the sawdust as its made. This keeps your cutting line clear and
unobstructed. If you choose a wet/dry vac, youre getting even more for your money. Be
sure to get one with enough amps in the motor. Low amps in these small motors usually
mean low power, and you want it to work as hard as you do.


#22: The Bench Grinder
Get a good bench grinder. It doesnt have to be in the way you can make a stand for
it and keep it in the corner. But youll be amazed at how much youll use a bench
grinder. Youve got to keep all of your chisels sharp, and keep the burrs off of your
screwdrivers, too. A grinder doesnt cost that much, and the time and expense it saves
you when you have dull tools will pay for itself in no time.

#23: The Circular Saw
A good circular saw is one of the most versatile tools
you can own. Most people consider the circular saw to
be a carpentry tool, but, combined with proper clamping
of your materials, they are just as accurate as any table
saw. Plus, you can use a circular saw for tasks that you
could never attempt with a table saw. It makes a lot more
sense to set up a couple of saw horses and get out the
circular saw to cut a sheet of plywood or MDF than to try
to maneuver around in your shop to cut them on a table
saw. A High quality circular saw should be the first power
tool in your shop.
All of your saws will have options on how many teeth-per-inch, or TPI you use. To make
your decision, you need to know what you are striving for with a cut. A saw blade with a
lot of teeth will make smoother cuts. However, you run the risk of burning your wood.
This is because a fine-toothed saw moves more slowly through the stock. It also doesnt
clear the sawdust out of the cut as quickly, since the gaps between the teeth are
smaller. These gaps are called gullets, and on fine-toothed saws, numerous small
gullets hold more sawdust than the bigger gullets on a wide-toothed saw. The wide-
toothed saws will aggressively buzz through your stock with less burning, but the cut will
be rougher, probably requiring refinement with your orbital sander or jointer.
As a general rule of thumb, you should keep a selection of blades for your saws. Your
circular say and table saw, as well, can make rough cuts with a 40 tooth saw blade, and
plywoods and other laminated materials will work well with an 80 tooth saw blade.
If you know that the blades of your saws are right, but are still having trouble getting the
cut you want, the moisture content of your stock may be wrong. Wood that has a
moisture content level that is too high for your area will feather when its cut,
regardless of the size or sharpness of the blades. Wood that is too dry will crack and
split when you cut it. If it seems that no matter what you do to your saws, you still dont
get satisfactory cuts, use your moisture meter to check the moisture content levels of
your stock.


#24: The Power Drill
The next power tool you should purchase is
a power drill. Now, many people swear by
cordless drills, but theyre more expensive,
and that cant do everything that an electric
drill can do thats where the term power
comes in. Power drills are not as expensive,
and their more powerful than cordless drills,
which do have their place in your shop. The
steady power that comes with a corded drill
makes it a better tool for extended use,
especially when using large bits such as paddle bits.
Most power drills are variable speed, with 2 speeds to choose from. When you select a
power drill, youll choose which sized chuck you want 3/8 or . This will determine
the size of bit you can use. If you anticipate the need for larger drill bits, such as for lag
bolts used in decking, you may want the drill. They also have more power. Typically,
both chucks accommodate the smallest diameter whether you use a keyless chuck or
not. Some people swear by keyless chucks, others find that they occasionally loosen.
Others find that keyed chucks loosen. Its up to you.


#25: The Sabre Saw
Every woodworker should have a sabre saw. Often
called a jigsaw, it will allow you to cut curves and
patterns in your stock materials. Youll probably
need an electric one, rather than a battery operated,
although the battery powered sabre saws work fine
on thin material and limited use. You need to find
one that fits your hand. Too small, and you cant
grip it; too large, and you cant control it. For thicker
materials, youll need a band saw, which well cover
later.



#26: The Palm Sander
A good palm sander is vital to any woodworkers
power tool collection. The palm sander will use
sheet of sanding paper, and is small enough to get
into tight places. However, you should be careful not
to sand patterns into your finished work with the palm
sander. They usually move in a circular pattern, or
back and forth. Either way, they can leave swirls and
streaks in your wood that show up once it is stained,
so be sure to keep it moving across the surface you
are sanding so that you dont sand grooves into your
wood.

#27: The Random Orbital Sander
A random orbital sander is actually a step up from
the little brother version the palm sander. The
random orbital sander uses hook and loop (Velcro) to
fasten the sanding disks to the sanding pad. The
random movement of the disk helps to avoid sanding
patterns into your wood. Your main precaution with
this tool is to make sure that your hardware supply
store has discs in stock in every grit. Otherwise, youll
have a sander that you cant use because you cant
find sanding pads for it.

#28: The Table Saw
Now, we start getting into the first permanent
fixture in your woodworking shop the table saw.
Of course, table saws can be loaded in the bed of
your truck, so, technically, theyre portable. But,
the table saw is not one you can pick up with one
hand and head to the worksite. The table saw will
be the workhorse of your shop, so get a good one.
Youll use it to rip, miter, shape, square, groove,
and join, so a good saw that suits your needs is vital.
The work surface should be heavy duty to withstand the abuse it will take. Look for a
handle to raise and lower the saw blade easily. It should have another handle so that
you can adjust the angle of the blade. See if there are connections for a dust collector,
too, to make that aspect easier. Youll want your table saw to have enough power to cut
through hard wood and make deep cuts. Again, look at amps and horsepower. The
motor should start with little to no vibration and run smoothly. Make sure it has a blade
guard and that the on/off switch is easy to reach. These days, the power switch is a
paddle that is easily pressed with you knee if you need an emergency off.
The blades for your table saw are in the same categories as the hand saws: rip and
crosscut. The rip blades have deep gullets. The crosscut blade has a kerf, or extra
cutting chisels, on every tooth, on alternating sides. This produces a very fine cut
surface. Rip blades are designed to cut with the grain of the wood, as you rip stock.
Crosscut blades can cut either with or against the grain. The most commonly purchased
blades are combination blades, ranging from 24 TPI to 80 TPI.
As pitch from the wood you cut accumulates on your saw blades, youll need to pause
and take time to clean them off. The pitch will heat up as you use the blade, and
overheat the blade, damaging it. There are a number of commercial cleaners available,
but you can just soak them in oven cleaner. This will dissolve the pitch, with only a little
rubbing. Do not use any abrasives on your saw blades. Scrubbing cleansers and rough
pads will leave scratches on the blade, which will only hold more pitch, making the
problem worse the next time you need to clean the blade.
All saw blades dull over time, but your circular saw and table saw blades can be
resharpened, if they are carbide. Since carbide blades are more expensive, this feature
makes the blade more cost effective, since sharpening will prolong the life of the blade.
Your drill press will have a platform for the stock you are drilling, but your table saw will
have well a table. There are a few precautions you should take with each of the
tables you use with your saws and drills. These tables are usually made of cast iron.
Cast iron rusts easily. It will come with a special grease that protects the surface during
storage. Youll need to clean the grease off of the surface, and apply a protectant in its
place that wont stain your stock or be a fire hazard. Possibly the best product for this is
simple car wax. Carnauba wax protects your car from harsh elements, and will do the
same for your table. Just be very sure that you dont use silicone wax, because the
residue interferes with the finish on certain woods.

#29: The Rip Fence
Your table saw should have a rip fence. Youll want one with fine-tuning adjustment
that runs parallel to the blade. Some rip fences have an adjustment knob on each end
of the fence, others on just one end. The main thing to look for is torque. When you
move the fence, do both ends move evenly, or does the far end hand up? This can be a
real problem, and youll save yourself a lot of frustration and stock lumber if you have a
rip fence that stays parallel to the cutting blade.



#30: The Miter Gauge
Look for a T-groove miter gauge on your table saw. While most saws have a built-in
miter gauge, it may move out of the groove when youre making your cuts. The gauge
needs to slide smoothly in its grooves without being loose.

#31: The Jig and Dado
Your table saw is much more versatile if you have the full range ofdados and jigs to
use with it. Jigs were mentioned earlier in this list, and their use for tenons, tapering,
panel- cutting, and many other uses. A stacked dado is two blades with a set of
chippers in between. This is used for cutting grooves, or removing large parts of stock.
The saw blades make the side of the groove straight while the chipper removes the
large part of the material between the saw blades. You can adjust the width of the
chippers, to get bigger cuts. You can also use a wobble blade for this, but it wobbles
and vibrates your table saw, and wont cut a flat edge.

#32: The Compound Miter Saw
You already have a tenon saw with a miter box,
but if youre going to get into crown molding and
other such projects, youll need acompoundmiter
saw. You may have used your circular saw for
those beveled cuts and miters. However, nothing
beats the precision of a good compound miter
saw for those combination cuts.
A miter saw can be set to bevel up to 45 degrees,
and will cut at a 60 degree angle in both
directions. The miter gauge on your saw should
be easy to read and clearly marked. There should
be hard stops at each major point, such as 0, 15,
22.5, 30, and 45. These degrees should be
stopped on both sides. Not only that, you should be able to lock the saw at any angle
you wish.
The bevel on the saw is the ability to tilt the saw to compound the cut hence the
name. This gives you the ability to cut 2 angles with one cut. Youll need the 10 saw
blade if you intend to cut 6 lumber. The 12 blade is nice, but few people really need
the extra size, although they appreciate it if they have it. 8 blades are just too small for
most woodworkers. You can find compound miter saws with a sliding arm function, like
a radial arm saw, but theyre pretty pricey.
#33: The Router
Every woodworker should have a router.
With the router, you can shape the edges of
your work. The variety of shapes is
endless, with the various bits available. If
youre a beginner, a stationary base router
will do almost everything you need. This will
start and end the cut at the same depth that
you set before you make the cut.
A plunge router allows you to plunge the bit into the wood, make your cut, then lift it
back out. You can use your stationary router in a router table, making long cuts with
ease using a fence. Some woodworkers even convert their table saw to accept a
stationary router so that they can use the rip fence and feather boards.
You should get a router with at least 2 HP, or it will be underpowered for hardwoods. It
needs variable speeds, since large bits need to operate at slower speeds. If you dont
have a variable speed router, you can burn your bits. Youll also burn hardwoods, if you
cant slow down the router speed.
Consider the size of the collet, too. This is like the drill size theyre available in and
size. You can put the smaller bits in the larger size, but not the other way around.
The larger bits are harder to find in the stores, and are more expensive. They balance
out their cost and rarity, though, because they are more stable than the bits, and
wont chatter as much during use.
Youll need to decide between grips on the router. Some of them have pistol grips that
you hold with one hand, others have 2 handles on opposite sides. Think about the
weight of the router and the uses, and decide which is best for you. Either way, though,
the on/off switch should be within finger reach. You shouldnt have to move one of your
hands to switch it on or off.
Some of the newer routers have sensors that evaluate the load. They adjust the RPMs
accordingly to keep them within a given range.
#34: The Band Saw
You just cant beat a band saw for cutting precise
shapes and curves. But, what a lot of woodworkers
dont realize is that the band saw is a powerful ally
when cutting rabbets and tenons. You can also rip
small pieces of wood and even make your own
laminate strips with a band saw. There are free-
standing, or cabinet band saws and table mount
models that you can attach to a work bench or a
dedicated stand. The free-standing models are
usually bigger, more sturdy saws that have more
features. They also have larger motors. These are
the models used by professionals. However, you
can still get professional results from a mounted
saw.
Youll want to look for 2 things with your band saw:
depth of cut and throat. The depth of cut is the
distance between the cutting plate and the upper
guides on the blade. This will determine the thickness of stock you can cut. There are
some saws, however, that can have risers attached to make it possible to cut thicker
materials, so you can go from 6 to 12 with the use of a riser.
The throat is the distance from the saw blade to the back frame of the saw. A cabinet
band saw will have a deeper throat, usually about 18, while the bench models have 12
to 14 throats. This will determine the width of stock that you can cut. When you see
information referring to a 12 Band Saw, its referring to the throat.
The size of the motor will matter. Most band saws made for home hobbyists will have up
to a 1 HP motor. More expensive ones will have variable speeds, but the woodworker
doesnt usually use the different speeds. The slower speeds are intended for cutting
metal and plastic. They may come in handy if youre planning on shaping exotic woods
such as acacia or bamboo. Just be sure to check the moisture content levels in these
woods before you make any fine applications, or theyll change size and mess up your
work.
The cutting surface, or table, should be made of steel alloy, aluminum alloy, or cast-iron.
It should also be adjustable up to 45 degrees, so that you can make cuts at an angle.
The measurements of the cutting surface should be about 16 x 16, with miter marks.
The saw blade of the band saw is actually a continuous band, like an alternator belt,
with teeth on one side. It rides on 2 wheels. The width of the band will determine the
radius of the curve you can cut. As a woodworker, youll want saw blades from 1/8 to 1
in width, keeping in mind that with the wider blade, you cant cut as wide on your curves.
The number of teeth per inch will matter here, too, with 1/2', , and 1 blades at about
3 teeth per inch, and thinner blades with more teeth.
The wheels on which the saw band rides should have a brush on them to keep debris
from accumulating. These look like the bristles from a paint brush being held in a clamp.
Youll need to change out the brushes once or twice during the lifetime of your band
saw.
Between the band saw blade and the wheel is a tire. This looks like a big rubber band.
Most of them are made of either rubber or urethane. You have to glue the rubber ones
onto the wheel, while the urethane doesnt have to be glued down. The urethane also
lasts longer, too. The tires you choose for your saw should be a little smaller than the
wheel again, its like an alternator belt. You want it to be tight. If you have a band saw
that just doesnt do the job any more, consider your maintenance of the machine. It
could be that it just needs new tires and brushes. If the tires are dried out and cracked,
the saw blade will drift and chatter. If the tires and brushes have been worn out for a
long time, you may even need new wheels. But, once you replace all of these and
adjust the wheels, you should have a smooth-running cutting machine.
# 35: The Radial Arm Saw
The radial arm saw is expensive, bulky, and
heavy. And, its absolutely indispensable to those
who own one. If you choose to get one, just plan
to have a permanent home for it, because its
probably not going to travel to worksites with you.
The radial arm saw us usually used to perform
crosscuts. However, you can use it for bevels and
miters, dadoes, rabbets, moldings, and even as a
router guide. It can perform the same functions as
a compound miter saw and a table saw. However,
its a little harder to use in these capacities. Its
kind of a trade off you get a multi-purpose saw
for the more extravagant price, but it will be a little
harder to use than saws made specifically for those purposes.
With a radial arm saw, youll move the saw rather than the material. The depth of the
throat will make a difference with this saw. Your set-up will determine the success of
your work. Set up your fence carefully, and make sure your stock is snug up against it.
Then, turn the saw on, and let the blade get up to full speed before you start pulling it
toward you.
Now, with this saw, youll get a lurching, crawling effect that you may not be prepared
for. Experts say to install the saw on the work table with a very slight backward slant in
order to keep it from walking forward on your work bench. Youll also need to be
prepared for the saw blade to grab the wood. This is one reason that set-up is so
important. With a fence securely in place, the wood has nowhere to go, and theres less
opportunity for your hand to get yanked into the blade. The saw will try to determine the
speed it travels through the wood. Youll have to keep a grip on it, and make it go at
your speed.
You can use your radial arm saw to cut dadoes and rabbets. Your dadoe blade installs
easily into the arm. Just be sure to remember the direction of cut, because its different
from your table saw. Also, always reinstall the blade guard when you change the blade
in any of your saws.
While this saw may be better at cutting complex compound angles, it can be trickier to
set up. Once you think you have it set up, make sure the clamping levers are locked into
place.
You can sue the radial arm saw to rip narrower stock. Just make sure that the riving
knife and pawls are in place should there be a jam or kick back.
Setting the depth of cut is important. With other saws, since the cut is to the top or
outside, this wont matter. But the radial arm saw is being drawn across the stock,
cutting all the way through it into the surface below. So youll have to pay close attention
to the depth of cut so as to not sacrifice your work surface on a regular basis.
# 36: The Drill Press
While most holes can be drilled with your power drill, there will be
applications in your woodworking where a drill press will be
invaluable. The drill press provides you with the ability to do
precision drilling, and deliver especially accurate large-diameter
holes.
One of the best features of a drill press is the ability for you to set
the depth of the hole. This is especially useful when you have a
number of holes you need to drill, all to the same depth. The drill
press also allows you to use forstner bits, hole saws, and spade
bits, drilling wide diameter holes to depths that would be very
difficult to drill by hand.
The features you should look for when you purchase your drill
press will begin with a bench mounted or free-standing model. For
the record, the free-standing models usually have larger motors, making them more
powerful. This means your work will be smoother. You can also work on larger stock
with the free-standing drill press. Look for variable speeds, too. This will be
accomplished by the ability to switch the belt to a different pulley setup, changing the
speed at which the chuck rotates. This is important because hardwoods and softwoods
must be drilled at different speeds (softwoods require faster speeds than hardwoods,
while hardwoods will burn at high speeds). Finally, look for a feed that has several
handles on it. You want the utmost control when you plunge the drill bit, and having 2 or
3 grips on the lever will help that. The plunge lever should be lockable so that you can
set the depth of plunge, with an automatic redraw.
The free- standing floor model may also come with another great feature the ability to
swing the drill table out of the way. Some of them can also be tilted to a 45 degree, too.
Look for a table that has slots that allow for the use of clamps, so that you can use jigs
and fences on the table. There will be slots on the table that allow for this.
To drill really large stock, look for a drill press that has a really deep throat. Just as with
the band saw, this is the distance between the working edge, in this case, the drill bit,
and the vertical support at the back of the press.
Your drill press can really help with joinery, as well as in drilling holes. With the proper
attachment, you can actually drill square holes. The chisels that cut the square part are
attached above the chuck, and the drill bit fits inside. This makes drilling mortise and
tenon joints easy.
Other uses and tips for your drill press:
1. Use it for sanding. You can use a sanding drum in the chuck and adjust the table
height to sand curved cuts easily.
2. Offset holes are easy to drill when you clamp the piece down.
3. Small pieces can be clamped to the drill press table, preventing them from
moving around as you drill.
4. Make a V jig to hold round items, such as chair legs, for drilling.
5. Clamp stop blocks to the drilling table, if you have to drill in the same place on
several pieces of wood.
#37: The Surface Planer
The surface planer is high-techs solution for the
dedicated woodworkers through the generations
who have patiently and skillfully planed their stock
by hand to get it the right thickness. The time
saving surface planer makes your world much
simpler. The planer has a table onto which you
feed your stock. This table is between 10 and 14,
so thats the maximum width of stock you can send
through. A set of blades rotate, cutting the wood as
it is fed through.
You adjust the depth of cut with a crank, usually on
one end of the planer. It actually looks kind of like
the wheel on a sewing machine. Most planers will plane your stock down 6 inches, but
you need to do this in small increments.
You achieve a smooth, evenly planed surface, the intake rollers inside the planer will
pull the stock in and feed it under the knives, while outtake rollers pull it out the other
side. The stock will move slowly and steadily beneath the knives which are rotating at a
very high RPM. This yields a smooth finish to your stock. There should be pawls within
the planer, so that if the rollers lose their grip on the stock, it wont kick back out of the
machine. You should also check to see if the surface planer youre considering has a
dust vacuum, because the amount of sawdust generated by these machines is epic.
You should always use hearing protection when youre using a surface planer. These
will be the noisiest tools in your workshop, and can cause damage. Safety glasses are
also suggested for all power equipment.
Tips for using the surface planer:
1. Hand feed the stock until both sets of rollers have grabbed it.
2. For extremely long pieces of stock, use extension tables or feed rollers on each
end.
3. Keep the stock in line with the plane table to avoid gouges. If the stock enters at
an angle, it will be gouged.
4. Stand beside the stock you are feeding into the planer. If you stand behind it, and
there is kick-back that the pawls dont catch, you will be injured.
5. NEVER use your hands to clear a jam.
Use a spare piece of scrap lumber to push out
anything that gets stuck in the planer.
6. Dont try to plane items that are too
small for the planer. These are best hand
sanded or clamped, with the block plane used,
instead.
#38: The Jointer
The jointer is the most reliable and accurate
way to insure square edges. It also will yield
flat surfaces that wont go through your surface
planer. Rather than using a saw blade, the jointer uses a cutter head that rotates at high
RPM. It is positioned between two tables. The infeed table is usually at a lower height,
based on how much you want to remove from your stock. The outfeed table is at the
same height as the cutting edge, supporting the board as it is cut. There should also be
a fence to help provide accurate cuts. Youll need a flat edge to do your woodworking,
and the jointer can cut a flat edge and smooth surface on your stock. For instance, if
you have a 2 x 4 with a roughed up edge, you can place it, rough side down, against the
fence on the jointer. Using a push stick, push the 2 x 4 across the jointer knives, and it
will cut down the rough parts of the edge. You may have to make several passes to get
the surface completely smooth. This will not only give you cleaner cuts, it will save wear
and tear on your motor and knives. Remember, too, to always allow the blades to get up
to full speed before you begin cutting.
Youll need to give slight downward pressure to the stock as it goes through the jointer.
Shift the pressure to the front of the stock as it exits the blades. Do not lift the stock until
it is completely free of the blades. Then, return to the starting point for your second
pass.
A jointer makes it possible to salvage bowed or warped stock that you previously may
have had to discard. With a bowed board, place in on the infeed table with the bow in
the center, facing up. This will keep it from rocking on the table. The two ends of the
piece will be jointed first, which is OK. If you have to joint an edge that is rocking, keep
your pressure on the infeed table to reduce the rocking as much as possible.
To square edges, make sure that the fence is truly at a 90 degree angle to the tables.
Remember your layout square? Youll use that for this task. Since youre preparing a
squared edge, place most of your pressure on the fence, making sure the wood stays
straight up and down as the blades do their work. Numerous, small cuts are preferable
to one big one.
The fact that the fence can be angled gives you the chance to make mitered butt joints.
You can also make plunges on the jointer, giving your stock chamfered edges.
Non-Tool Tools
It may well be that the most valuable tools you own in your woodworking shop are not
tools at all.
#39: The Manual
Each of the tools you purchase for your shop will come
with a manual. Just resign yourself right now to reading
directions. Most tools returned to mail order companies
and home improvement stores as defective simply
were not used according to directions. The hands-on
nature of woodworking often means there is a large
population of craftsmen who dont care to read
directions, but when youre dealing with, ultimately,
thousands of dollars worth of equipment, all of which
can eat your hands, youre much better off referring to
the operators manual, rather than learning by trial and error.
A single-drawer file cabinet will hold all of your manuals and warranty information. Keep
a separate file on each tool yes, even your screwdrivers because many of those are
warrantied, too. For filing purposes, file either according to make, such as Black &
Decker, Ryobi, etc, or by tool, such as router bits, router, router table, etc.
You may be able to find magazine protectors at your local office supply store. While
they are harder to find, they will make it possible to keep your manual with your
equipment without the manual being damaged. Some truly dedicated woodworkers
even make their own notebooks out of the operators manuals. They take them apart,
putting each page in a page protector, reassembling them in a notebook binder. The
binder is then left on a shelf under the saw, if possible, or displayed on a shelf for easy
reference. You can imagine that the equipment of these woodworkers is also in pristine
condition. While you may not go to these lengths to keep your manuals handy, at least
read through them at least once, when you first get your equipment.
Each manual will have suggestions for not only safe operation, but for special uses, as
well. Chances are, if youre having trouble with your machine, the problem is addressed
in the manual, and you can save yourself a lot of time and frustration by troubleshooting
with the operators manual.



#40: The Safety Equipment
The safety equipment you use may save irreplaceable parts of you. Fingers dont grow
back, so use feather boards, push sticks, and always use tools according to directions.
You should always have proper backup as you feed material through machines, and
keep the pressure applied to the correct parts of the stock, as in yourinstruction
manuals.
Your vision and hearing are equally irreplaceable, so always wear safety glasses. If you
wear prescription lenses, you order them with safety lenses, making it easy to protect
your eyes while you work. Ordinary glasses are not safety lenses, and may shatter if a
projectile hits them, causing even more damage.
Your hearing can be protected with earplugs purchased at the hardware store or the
local Wal-Mart. If you dont find them in the sleep-aid section, check the hunting section.
You can find the kind that have a string connecting them, so that you just pull them out
of your ears when youre finished cutting, and they lie across your shoulders until youre
ready for them again.
There you have it 40 tools that every woodworker should think about owning. Ranging
in complexity from the humble claw hammer to the complex and potentially dangerous
jointer, these tools each have unique uses in the hands of skilled workmen. Proper care
of all tools will prolong their lives, and proper use of safety equipment will prolong the
quality of your own life. Accessible storage will make your shop not only a safer
environment, it will save you a great deal of time in looking for pieces and parts that you
use on a regular basis.
Remember that, with numerous power tools, youll need dedicated outlets. While you
may not run more than one power tool at a time, its still better to try to arrange your
shop so that each tool has its own outlet, rather that stringing multi-outlet adapters
across the floor, with 5 and 6 powerful tools plugged into each one.
If you keep hand tools in tool drawers or on peg boards where they wont roll around
and bump into each other, the edges and handles will last longer. Keep saw blades
oiled and stored flat, when possible, so that the teeth wont be damaged.
Finally, make sure you have good lighting on all of your work surfaces. Overhead
lighting is vital to any workshop, but can cast shadows on your work surface. Shadows
can not only interfere with accurate cutting, but can be downright dangerous with the
optical illusions they can cause, leading you to get your hands too close to saw blades.
As you lay out your shop and plan outlets for your power tools, plan for an outlet for a
work light, too. You can get excellent work surface lights that will clip on, or mount onto
the wall behind your equipment, or stand on the floor and adjust to shine on multiple
surfaces.