Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Just a little introduction of who am I and why this article. First, I am not a bench rest shooter; I
have been shooting high power and smallbore silhouette for the past twenty years. My bench
rest type shooting has been limited to sight-in shooting sessions only. My bench technique or
lack of results to date would classify myself as a solid three-quarter of the minute bench shooter.
The bench rest groups that I have read about over the years and pictures of those small group just
continue to amaze me. I have lots of respect for the bench rest shooter and know that it is much
harder than it looks. Bench rest shooting is truly special and requires it’s own special discipline.
I have been a subscriber to Precision Shooting and Shooter’s News over the years and enjoyed
the articles on bench rest shooting by the various bench rest shooters. The magazines seem to
have changed over the years. Glossy covers and thicker magazines are nice but I like the old
question and answer approach where the questions and answers were directly related to the
bench rest sport or related to rifle accuracy. It is good to hear that Shooter’s News is interested
in the old format. A question was posted on some basic aspect of the bench rest sport was asked
and a few of the “Pro’s” were asked for an answer. It was probably very time consuming for the
editor to correct and compile the answers but they made for some interesting articles and made
the magazine. What interested me even more were the stories on why they did what they did.
Some of the reasons and theories on what they saw and what they did may have been it conflict
with some of Newton’s Laws but so what, that was what they observed and their reason why. I
enjoyed those articles and back a few years there were articles about shooting 30 BR’s and 308’s
in bench rest competition. Those were the articles I liked best. Some of the things the bench rest
guys were doing for 30-caliber competition I incorporated into use for my silhouette shooting.
So this article is about that. This is what I do for case preparation and reloading for my
silhouette shooting, based off my experience to date and the bench rest shooters articles.
Granted most of the things are not necessary for the silhouette sport but then again a couple of
extra steps will not hurt anything either. But most of all, “If it makes you feel better, do it,
because it will make you shoot better”.
Selecting and buying new cases
This case preparation story is about preparing
cases for my two standard high power
silhouette rifles. My primary and back-up
rifles are both Remington 700’s in 308
Winchester caliber. Back-up rifle got
promoted to primary rifle two years ago after
receiving a new 24-inch Hart barrel. Now both
rifles have new Hart barrels with 11 to 1 twists
and 0.340 necks. I wanted a 0.338 neck but
my choice from Hart using standard tooling was 0.340 and 0.335. I went with the 0.340 neck
size, this is more or less the standard for long range Palma guns and most commercial ammo will
fit this chambering. It is still much tighter than the standard 0.346 neck.
So the new barrels deserve new brass. So, I ordered 1000 of IMI 308 Match Brass cases. I was
also foolishly hoping that case necks would be thicker than say the Winchester brass and that the
case necks would require turning to fit. After all the IMI brass does weigh more than the most
other commercial brass. I was also getting good stories from the High Power National Match
Shooters about the IMI brass. So the following article and information is how this crazy
silhouette shooter prepared his new IMI Match brass for its first loading and how he reloads it
after each firing.
Upgraded to a K&M Neck Turner. Great tool and easy to make very small adjustments to the
cutting depth. I use the K&M case holder that came with the neck turner for triming cases. It
grips a little better than the Sinclair case holder and both are easilier to use than the Lee case
holder.
Also moved the old grape grape crusher flywheel and bearings from one of the work bench legs
to a frame that mounts on the work bench. Much easilier to use.
This arrangement almost making tuning neck fun. The secret to neck turning is how easy it is to
turn the case. By hand is best for the feel of the cutting process. The flywheel is 15½ in.
diameter.
Back to Case Preparation Index
Weigh and sort cases
At last, hear is the last operation in the case
preparation process and the one that I have
been waiting for, weighing and sorting the
cases. Most folks think that doing this is a
total waste of time and has absolutely no affect
on performance. They may be right, but
weighing and sorting your cases is one way of
knowing how uniform your brass is. Just how
good or bad is this IMI Match brass in terms of
case weight consistency. This operation is
easy to do with an electronic scale or balance.
I use some ¾ inch square wooden sticks keep the cases separated. Each stick is marked on one
end the weigh class for that stick. The stick is divided up into ten portions and the ten portions
are marked on the stick from 0 to 9. These numbers indicate 0.1-grain increments along the
stick. See picture, the sticks are marked on one end for each whole grain weight. Than the stick
is marked along the length for each 0.1 grain increment. Simply weigh each case and place on
the correct pile. So after weighing and separating all but the few cases which failed the neck
turning operation, it was time to box the brass. I placed 800 of pieces of brass in MTM 100
plastic cartridge cases. A hundred or more highs and lows were left. Then I weighed and sorted
the cases that failed the neck turning operation and them added to the highs and lows. Now these
two hundred pieces of brass, (high case weight, low case weight, and cut on one-side necks)
were put into two MTM 100 plastic cartridge cases.
Back to Case Preparation Index
Without weighing the cases, I would have never found this shaving. In fact, several people
looked inside this case at the range before I decided to use this case, has my bullet seating case.
The brass shaving would have stayed in the case was fired, but surely would change the
pressures a little.
The flash hole in the case is now tapped for 12 x 20. The case is now ready for use. The bullet
seating depth maybe easily measured now using this special case. Just seat the any bullet into
this case using a your seating die. Then measure the seating depth of the bullet. Adjust your
seating die as needed. Then just push the bullet back out of the case a little and reseat it again.
This maybe repeated many times. If the bullet gets a little loose, just resize the case. The frugal
cartridge length measuring device.
Thought the picture of the brass shaving would be of interest.
Back to Case Preparation Index
Fired Case Reloading Procedure
Case resizing
First step in my reloading operation is to measure five or ten fired
cartridges for cartridge length using my RCBS Precision Mic. The
number does not change much, but gives me an accurate base line for
the re-sizing operation. The measurements are recorded on the back
of the data sheet. Next I check my previous data sheet for the
Redding Competition Shell Holder I used the last time. I really like
these Redding Competition Shell Holders; it is the only way to get
“custom” lengths during a re-sizing operation with any level of
consistency. I am now using a Redding UltraMag Press; this press
has a tremendous amount of mechanical advantage and is a real joy
to operate. After placing the correct shell holder in the top of the
ram, I run the ram up to top dead center. Then I screw the body re-
sizing; I use the Redding Competition Body Die, down until it
contacts the top of the shell holder. Now here is a little secret of
mine, I tighten the body die using channel locks hard against the shell holder. This does two
things; first it squares the die to the ram. Second it makes all the brass re-size to the same
length. After tightening the die against the ram I than tighten the die locking ring which should
keep the die in it’s square to the ram position. The Redding Competition Shell Holder comes in
0.002 increments and so far the increments have worked great and I have not needed one in
between the two standard increments. I think you can play around with how tight you make the
body die and get into a dimension that falls between two increments in the shell holder.
I measure the first case after re-sizing and if okay do the next previous measured cases. I
measure the same cases before and after re-sizing and in the same order. The measurements are
recorded on the back of the data sheet. Currently, I am under sizing the brass about 0.0005 to
0.001 to the fired case. My silhouette rifle with the Red stock “Red” has fired cases that measure
about 0.0015 over the base dimension or minimum cartridge length using my RCBS Precision
Mic. The RCBS Precision Mic is a very handy little tool. Easy to use and no set up required.
Just measure. The silhouette rifle with the blue stock "Blue" just got re-barreled and it's fired
cases are measuring about 0.0005 over the base dimension or minimum cartridge length using
my RCBS Precision Mic.
For lubricating the cases before re-sizing I have been stuck in the mud with my Redding Case
Lubricating Pad and RCBS water-soluble case lube. The water-soluble lube washes off the
hands easier and I put very little on the pad, which puts a very thin coating on the cases. After
re-sizing I clean the body die by pulling a small rag through the die. Very easy to do with the
Redding Competition Body die since it does not have a stem or a primer punch. That is about it
for re-sizing other than I do it after every firing. I do not like hard or even a little firm closing
bolt. Remember this is for Silhouette Shooting not Stool Shooting.
One more point or plug for the Redding UltraMag Press. I have seen lots of comments about the
Forester/Bonanza Co-Ax Press. It’s claim to fame is perfect die alignment as well as being a
well make press. I have not ever used one, but if you tighten the dies in the UltraMag as I
mention above, the die and ram is as square as it gets. Now when you start the ram up during the
re-sizing step and stop just when good contact is made, then lower the ram just enough to let the
case float in the shell holder, and than start the ram up again to complete the re-sizing operation.
This little extra step should center the case perfectly in the re-sizing die without any side forces.
There is a few thousands float between the case rim and shell holder. All presses made today
have alignments well within the amount of play that the case rim has in the shell holder. I like
my Redding UltraMag Press, especially after using a Pacific C-Press for over the past fifteen
years.
Back to Fired Case Reloading Procedure Index
Neck sizing
This may be a little
over kill for silhouette
shooting, but once you
start using any of the
Redding Competition
Dies, you will not
want to use anything
else. I set my
Redding Competition
Neck Sizing Die in the
Redding UltraMag
Press in a similar
fashion to the body re-
sizing die, but no
tightening with the channel locks. I simply raise the ram and screw the neck-sizing die down
until it bottoms out on the ram and then unscrew it until the micrometer dial and numbers are
facing the front. I have to unscrew the die about 1/3 turn or about 0.024 in. This is where I leave
it, so I am neck sizing my necks just about the entire neck. I have been using a 0.335 bushing.
My current selection is 0.333, 0.335, & 0.337.
Since the neck sizing is now pushing the old primers out, I will mention here that I have placed
small piece of 3/8 diameter brass tubing inside ram on the UltraMag Press. This brass tube was
cut to a length that allows it rest in the bottom of the ram and just allow the shell holders to clear
it’s top. With this brass tube in place all of the primers and primer dirt goes down the brass tube
and out plastic hose on the bottom of the ram. Keeps the press a lot cleaner.
Solvent Wash
This is something I started after tumbling brass in the red
walnut shells. The amount of red stuff left on the brass
was a mess. So I would solvent wash the brass and I am
still doing it. The solvent wash is a three-step or three-pail
process. First I place the oily cases in an old tin peanut
can (which are harder to find now days) which I have drill
a bunch of 1/8 inch drain holes in the bottom. The tin
peanut can holds about 50-52, cases (308 Win.), and I
placed the cases in the tin can with the primer end or
cartridge base up. No good reason for primer up other
than if some paint or can liner, breaks loose you may see it
in the primer pocket and may not see it way down inside
the case. I think the cases also drain better in this position.
Step one is dip into pail of lacquer thinner. First wash and
thinner gets dirty
Step two is dip into pail of lacquer thinner. Second wash and thinner stays cleaner
Step three is dip into pail of acetone. Final rinse and acetone dries fast.
Dump brass on terry cloth towel and wipe outside surfaces. Fold towel over cases and rub them
around a little. I use some old one-gallon house paint pails and do this operation outdoors.
Back to Fired Case Reloading Procedure Index
Case trimming
This is my approach to trimming made fast and
easy. If you have not noticed, the electric
screwdriver keeps appearing. That electric
screwdriver is one the best tool I have ever
bought. I find myself using it for more and
more things every day.
Case polishing
This step will make some of the bench rest shooter shudder just a little. But I have changed from
tumbling to vibrating polishing process. I have replaced my Thumbler’s Tumbler, retired to
Moly coating, with a Midway vibrating brass polisher. The Midway works great and I polish
100 cases for 3 hours. No beating up the case mouths like the tumbler. I like shinny cases, they
make me shoot better.
Back to Fired Case Reloading Procedure Index
Priming
I use a modified Lee-priming tool. This was the bench rest tool of
choice back a few years ago. The custom model, I want to say was
done by Sinclair before he started making his own. The Sinclair tool is
probability a far superior tool than the Lee, but the Lee priming tool
has been working well for me over the years. Anyway, the Secret’s
from the Houston Warehouse said this step does not matter. After
twenty five years of picking up one primer at a time, I switch over to
the Lee Auto Primer. Works great. Make a small card borad tray to
dump the primers into first and then pour onto the Lee Auto Tray.
Bullet seating
My procedure for bullet seating has just changed. At the last silhouette match in 1999, which
was also the state championship, I found myself with some hard loading ammo. It changed the
point of aim and got to me at the match (did not feel good and did not shoot good). After
returning from the match the best I can figure out is I left two of my MTM-100 boxes loaded
with the bullets loaded long. The best I can conjecture is I was going to adjust them later, but
forgot about it. Worst of all there was no note if it on the
data sheets. Or I just loaded them with the seating die or
seating stem one full rotation off and I did not measure
them. So now I place my Redding Competition Seating
correctly in the reloading press, and screw the seating stem
out one full turn. Then I seat the bullet in five cartridges.
Since these are way long, I insert them into my silhouette
rifle and force the bolt close, pushing the bullet back into the
case. I first remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt
with Sinclair’s Remington firing pin removal tool. Also I
have removed the ejector pin in my bolt. I find it easier to
pick the case out of the receiver than pick it up from the
ground. Then I measure overall length of the five rounds
using my RCBS Precision Mic. I now record this on the
back of the data sheet for this batch. I find that there is a slight difference in the five, so I add
them up and divide by five to get the average. After I have the average, I subtract 0.015 and this
is the depth I will seat to. I am looking for 0.015 in jump to hard contact with the lands.
In my guns, if the bullet is seated out too far and hits the lands the bullet will be pushed back into
the case. I read stories about bench rest shooters who seat their bullets a few thousands into the
lands. This brings up an interesting question for me, how do they do that? Or is touching the
lands different then hard contacting the lands? A little jump of 0.015 should keep the accuracy
up and pressure down. Also measuring each time I reload a batch of cartridges, I can keep track
of any throat erosion.
That concludes my story on how this silhouette shooter reloads after reading too many bench rest
magazines.
Back to Fired Case Reloading Procedure Index
Larry Medler
anyrange@comcast.net