Textile Research Journal Article

Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion

Tests and Image Analysis
Erhan Kenan Çeven and Özcan Özdemir1
Abstract Chenille yarns are vulnerable to abra- Department of Textile Engineering,
sion because of easy pile loss. In this study different Faculty of Engineering and Architecture
chenille yarns were produced from sirospun and Uludag University Görükle, 16059 Bursa, Turkey
two-folded ring, 100% wool and 50% wool–50%
polyester blend yarns of different fiber fineness. A
yarn abrasion device was designed in order to meas-
ure the abrasion resistance of chenille yarns and the
abrasion resistance of knitted fabrics made from
these yarns was measured with a Martindale Abra-
sion tester. In addition, chenille yarns abraded for
different numbers of abrasion cycles were analyzed
using a computerized image analysis method to
evaluate the abrasion behavior. The results were
analyzed statistically. According to the results, the
use of wool blends and sirospun yarns as pile mate-
rials led to an improvement in abrasion resistance.
Correlation analyses confirmed strong linear rela-
tionships with high values of correlation coefficients
(above 0.9) between the mass loss values obtained
from abrasion tests and the abrasion coefficients of
the chenille yarns obtained from image analysis.

Key words chenille yarn, abrasion resistance,

image analysis, wool, fiber fineness, sirospun

Fancy yarns are those produced with some deliberate dis-
continuity introduced either into the color or form of the
article with the intention of producing an enhanced aes-
thetic impression [1].They determine the ornamentation in
the fabric [2]. Chenille yarn is a kind of fancy yarn which is
fascinating because of its gleam and softness. It has a pile
protruding all around at right angles and finds a wide range
of applications including outerwear fabrics, home furnish-
ing fabrics and knitwear.
Chenille yarns are constructed by twisting core yarns
together in chenille yarn machines where pile yarns are
inserted at right angles and cut to within 1 or 2 mm of the
core yarn surface to create a surface in which the fibers
contained in the pile yarns burst and form a soft pile sur-
face to the yarn [3]. The size and number of the pile yarns
and how many of them are fed onto the core determines
the count of the yarn [3–5].
Chenille is a difficult yarn to manufacture, requiring
great care in production. Due to the nature of its pile loss;
great care must be taken in converting chenille into final
articles. When the yarns are in use, clearly the abrasion
resistance of the chenille yarn is crucially important, in par-
ticular because the effect sought is always that of the vel-
vety feel of the pile, and the bald look of worn velvet or
chenille is not appealing. Any removal of the effect yarn
forming the beard, either during further processing or dur-
ing the eventual end-use, will expose the ground yarns,
which in turn will result in a bare appearance [6].1
1
Corresponding author: (current address) Department of Tex-
tile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture Uludag
University, Görükle, 16059 Bursa, Turkey. Tel: +90 224 442 8174;
fax: +90 224 442 8021; e-mail: ozdemir@uludag.edu.tr

Textile Research Journal Vol 76(4): 315–321 DOI: 10.1177/0040517506061961 www.trj.sagepub.com © 2006 SAGE Publications
TRJ 316 Textile Research Journal 76(4)
Despite the fact that chenille yarns are used to produce
special fabrics with high added value, the literature survey
shows that there is limited research on the abrasion behav-
ior of such yarns and fabrics. Recently several researchers
have attempted to determine the effect of yarn structure
(pile length, twist level, pile material type) on abrasion
characteristics [3–5, 7]. They used conventional abrasion
test methods for their assessments and predictions.
In the present study, the abrasion behavior of chenille
yarns was analyzed with a computerized image analysis
method. In addition to image analysis, yarn and fabric abra-
sion tests were also carried out to assess abrasion resistance
and to evaluate the relationship between the mass loss val-
ues and values obtained from image analysis. The study
involved research of both wool and wool-blended chenille
yarns to investigate the influence of some chenille yarn
parameters on yarn abrasion, fabric abrasion and abrasion
coefficient values obtained from image analysis.
In doing so, the wool chenille yarn parameters that
affect yarn and fabric abrasion have been defined and an
experimental study program was designed.
Experimental
The experiments involved chenille yarn samples manufac-
tured from wool and wool-blend pile yarns of different
yarn types (two-folded ring, sirospun) and different fiber
fineness. The properties of wool and wool-blend pile yarns
are shown in Table 1.
As the wool chenille yarns are highly vulnerable to
abrasive forces, we preferred to use wool chenille yarns
rather than those with other fiber materials, with the
expectation that the assessments of the results would be
more explicit. During the production of chenille yarns, the
lock and pile yarns have to pass many gauges and pulleys
therefore yarn strength must be high enough for the
machine to run smoothly. For this reason, two-ply and
sirospun (two strand) wool yarns were used in the produc-
tion of chenille yarns. The two-ply wool yarns were
obtained by the conventional method and sirospun yarns
Table 1 Properties of wool and wool blend pile yarns.
Material Fiber fineness
wool 19.5 µm
wool 19.5 µm
wool 20.5 µm
wool 20.5 µm
50/50 wool/pet 20 µm – 1.5 denier pet
50/50 wool/pet 20 µm – 1.5 denier pet
50/50 wool/pet 21 µm – 1.5 denier pet
50/50 wool/pet 21 µm – 1.5 denier pet
R, two-fold conventional ring; S, sirospun. All the yarns are have the same twist multiplier.
were produced directly by feeding, drafting and controlling
two rovings in parallel via a single spindle.
The 2.8 Nm count wool chenille yarns were produced
using pile yarns mentioned above and 34/1 Nm count cotton
lock yarns on a Hwa Ching HC-607 type chenille yarn
machine in pile length of 1.2 mm and yarn twist of 790 turns/
m- in the Z direction. Thereafter fabrics from these yarns
were knitted at the same cam setting on an E7 gauge flat
knitting machine. The fabric construction was single jersey.
A testing device was designed by making some modifi-
cations to the Crockmeter (James H. Heal & Co. Ltd) to
measure the abrasion resistance of the yarn samples. The
test method involved the abrasion of chenille yarns by a
Supraflex Paper 167-type silicon carbide with dimensions
of 5 cm × 5 cm. The chenille yarn was wound (five turns)
on a rectangular cardboard with dimensions of 17 cm × 30
cm. The silicon carbide paper was moved straight onto the
wound chenille yarn [5, 8]. Before starting the abrasion
tests, primary trials were made in order to determine the
abrasion cycle that would be suitable for the chenille yarn
samples. According to the results of these trials, mass
losses in milligrams were determined for five abrasion lev-
els from 50 to 150 cycles at 50, 75, 100 and 150 cycles.
Average values of mass loss ratio (%) were obtained by the
proportion of the mass loss of samples after the test levels
divided by the initial mass of the samples.
A computerized image analysis method was used to
evaluate the abraded structures of the yarn samples visu-
ally since the abrasion resistance is determined with high
reliability by this method. Photographs of samples were
taken with a camera (Olympus Sc-35 Type 12 camera)
mounted on a tripod integrated with an optical light micro-
scope (Olympus Sz-Pt 4045 Trinoculer Stereo Zoom
microscope). The pixel resolution of the camera was 640 ×
480 (color 24 bit) and the photo was magnified 24×. Yarn
samples were photographed in the initial state and after 50,
75, 100 and 150 abrasion cycles and in the same conditions.
The region of each image was set at 1544 × 1024 pixels for
computer image analysis. Images of samples were proc-
essed by image analysis software (Adobe Photoshop Ele-
ments 3.0) and converted from a RGB (red, green and
blue) colored format to a gray-scale format. All images
Yarn type Yarn count (Nm) Twist (T/m)
R 76/2 781
S 76/2 779
R 56/2 675
S 56/2 680
R 70/2 774
S 70/2 774
R 60/2 706
S 60/2 706
 Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests E. K. Çeven and Ö. Özdemir 317 TRJ

were filtered with median filtering to remove noise, and
then converted to binary images of black and white by
threshold values. Using the software program, the number
of white pixels on the images was counted and then the
abrasion coefficients were calculated. An abrasion coeffi-
cient value (AC %) is the ratio of the difference of initial
and abraded sample area to the initial sample area
AC (%) = [(AC2 – AC1)/AC2] × 100
where AC1 is the abraded sample area and AC2 is the initial
sample area.
Abrasion tests of the knitted chenille fabric samples
were conducted on a Martindale Wear and Abrasion
Tester, Model 103 (James Heal & Co. Ltd., Halifax, Eng-
land) in accordance with BS 5690 [9]. Abrasion cycles were
limited to 5000 rubs and the cut samples were weighed at
the beginning and at the end of 5000 cycles. Mass loss
ratios were obtained by dividing mass loss after 5000 cycles
to initial mass of the samples.
We examined the results in terms of yarn mass loss ratio,
fabric mass loss ratio and abrasion coefficient for each sam-
ple type. Measurements were repeated three times for each
yarn and fabric type. The Costat statistical package was used
for all statistical procedures. The statistical analyses were car-
ried out using completely randomized two-factor analysis of
variance (RM ANOVA) as a fixed model for wool and wool-
polyester chenille yarns in order to determine the significance
of the factors on mass losses and AC values. The means were
compared by Student–Newman–Keuls (SNK) tests. Correla-
tion analyses were conducted in order to observe the rela-
tionships between fabric and yarn mass loss values, between
AC and yarn mass loss values and between AC and fabric
mass loss values. All test results were assessed at a confidence
level of at least 95% (at most 5% significance level) [10].
Results and Discussion
Figure 1 illustrates average mass loss values of wool and
wool-polyester blended chenille yarns versus four abrasion
levels, (50, 75,100 and 150 cycles) for two different fiber
fineness types and two different pile yarn types, respec-
tively. SNK test results of wool and wool-polyester blended
chenille yarns and fabrics are given in Table 2.

Figure 1 Mass loss values versus abrasion cycles: (a) for wool chenille yarns, (b) for wool- polyester chenille yarns.

Table 2 Effects of pile yarn types, and pile yarn fiber finenesses on abrasion resistance, Student–Newman–Keuls Test: (a)
for wool chenille yarns and fabrics, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns and fabrics.
Average yarn mass loss (%) Average fabric
(a)-Parameter 50 cycles 75 cycles 100 cycles 150 cycles mass loss (%)
Yarn type Ring 3.00 a 6.30 a 8.80 a 15.55 a 48.0 a
Siro 2.65 a 6.20 a 8.35 b 14.65 b 45.5 b
Fiber fineness (µ) 19.5 3.15 a 6.85 a 9.30 a 16.90 a 51.0 a
20.5 2.50 b 5.65 b 7.85 b 13.30 b 42.5 b
(b)-Parameter
Yarn type Ring 1.85 a 3.70 a 6.65 a 9.90 a 29.0 a
Siro 2.10 a 3.85 a 6.55 a 9.50 b 25.0 b
Fiber fineness 20 – 1.5 2.40 a 4.50 a 6.90 a 11.35 a 34.50 a
(µ – denier) 21 – 1.5 1.55 b 3.05 b 6.30 b 8.05 b 19.50 b
Different letters next to the counts indicate that they are significantly different from each other at 5% significance level.
TRJ 318 Textile Research Journal 76(4)
According to the variance analysis results for wool and
wool-polyester blended chenille yarns, fiber fineness was
a significant factor affecting yarn abrasion resistance at
all numbers of abrasion cycles (50, 75, 100, 150 cycles).
However, the effect of yarn type on the abrasion tended
to become significant as the number of abrasion cycles
increased. Yarn type was a significant factor on abrasion
resistance of wool chenille yarns at 100 and 150 abrasion
cycles whereas it was only significant at 150 abrasion cycles
for wool-polyester blended chenille yarns. The differences
in the mass loss of different yarn types were statistically sig-
nificant at high abrasion levels for wool-polyester blended
chenille yarns. This finding indicates that the inclusion of
polyester in the blend enhances the resistance to abrasive
forces.
The results of variance analysis of wool and wool-poly-
ester blended chenille fabrics revealed statistically signifi-
cant differences between mass loss values for different
yarn types and fiber fineness.
In terms of the fiber fineness, for wool chenille yarns
and fabrics, there is a tendency toward decreased mass loss
with the use of coarser fibers. The mass loss of chenille
yarns with 19.5 µm wool pile material was greater than that
with 20.5 µm wool pile material at all levels of abrasion
cycles. Similarly, fabrics knitted with these yarns showed
the same abrasion behavior. These results can be inter-
preted as demonstrating that differences in fiber fineness
will affect the pile density on the surface of the chenille
yarn.
As the 76/2 Nm count pile yarns have a fiber fineness of
19.5 µm and the 56/2 Nm count pile yarns have a fiber fine-
ness of 20.5 µm, the number of the fibers in the yarns’ cross
section will differ from each other. The number of the
fibers in the cross section for 19.5 µm fibers is lower than
that of 20.5 µm fibers. As the pile density of wool chenille
yarn increases, the yarn structure will be tighter, resulting
in a more compact surface and increased degree of pile
packing [5, 8, 11]. The piles will be held more tightly, which
will raise the fiber cohesion. Thus pile density affects the
abrasion behavior of chenille yarns. Furthermore, it is
stated in literature that increasing fiber diameter up to a
limit improves abrasion resistance [12, 13].
When the mass loss results of wool chenille yarns and
fabrics were compared with regard to yarn type, it can be
seen that chenille yarns with conventional ring pile yarn
component experience greater abrasion than those with a
sirospun pile yarn component. The knitted fabrics pro-
duced from those yarns also showed the same characteris-
tic. This may be due to the fact that the resistance of
chenille yarns and knitted fabrics to abrasive forces depend
not only on the pile yarn fiber properties, but also on the
pile yarn types and their positioning around the two core
(axial) yarn components in the chenille yarn structure.
Sirospun yarn will more closely resemble a single yarn in
structure but because of the low level of strand twist it has
two important properties which improve its character to
some extent: it is more abrasion resistant and less hairy [3].
Because of the twist liveliness of these yarns and the tighter
structure than the normal two-fold yarn, they are more
abrasion resistant.
According to the test results for wool-polyester chenille
yarns and fabrics, mass loss decreased as fiber fineness
increased. Chenille yarns of 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier pol-
yester pile material were abraded more than those of 21
µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester pile material at all levels
of abrasion cycles. A similar differentiation resulted in the
mass losses of knitted fabrics from chenille yarns. Accord-
ingly, we can postulate that when polyester fiber material
exists in the pile yarn the abrasion characteristics of wool-
polyester chenille yarns and fabrics do not show a different
tendency from those of wool-type yarns and fabrics.
The comparison of the results of wool-polyester che-
nille yarns with increasing abrasion cycles shows an inter-
esting situation. Chenille yarns with sirospun pile yarn
component are abraded more than ther ring couple at the
beginning of the abrasion test at 50 and 75 abrasion cycles.
At 100 abrasion cycles, chenille yarns with a conventional
ring pile yarn component show a worse resistance to abra-
sive forces. Despite the values obtained from the starting
level to this abrasion level, the results are of no importance
at 5% significance level. At 150 abrasion cycles, a signifi-
cant difference was observed between the mass loss values.
Chenille yarns with a conventional ring pile yarn compo-
nent are abraded more than the yarns with a sirospun pile
yarn component. The effect of yarn type on the abrasion
behavior was similar for the fabrics knitted with wool-poly-
ester chenille yarns.
There is a decrease in the mass loss ratios by 5.20 and
13.79% when the fabrics are knitted with sirospun chenille
yarns of wool and wool-polyester, respectively.
Evaluation of AC Values
In this study, we used a software program to compare the
surface changes in abraded yarns after a certain number of
cycles with their initial states. The AC values were calcu-
lated in order to evaluate the abraded structures of the
yarn samples visually.
Figure 2 shows the selected images of chenille yarn
samples processed by image analysis software.
From the analysis of variance results for wool chenille
yarns we observed that, the abrasion coefficient (AC) val-
ues for yarns of different fiber fineness differ from each
other significantly after all abrasion cycles. However, yarn
type only had a significant effect on AC values at 100 and
150 cycles.
According to the variance analysis results for wool-poly-
ester chenille yarns, there was no significant difference
 Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests E. K. Çeven and Ö. Özdemir 319 TRJ

Figure 2 Initial and abraded appearances of chenille yarns versus abrasion cycles: (a) for chenille yarns of ring and 19.5
µm wool; (b) for chenille yarns of sirospun and 19.5 µm wool; (c) for chenille yarns of ring and 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier
polyester blend; (d) for chenille yarns of Sirospun and 20 µm wool and 1.5 denier polyester blend.

Table 3 Effects of pile yarn types, and pile yarn fiber finenesses on AC value, Student–Newman–Keuls test: (a) for wool
chenille yarns, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns.
AC (%)
(a)-Parameter 50 cycles 75 cycles 100 cycles 150 cycles
Yarn type Conv. rRing 3.19 a 6.27 a 8.86 a 13.99 a
Siro 2.81 a 5.70 a 7.82 b 12.93 b
Fiber fineness (µ) 19.5 3.53 a 7.16 a 9.11 a 14.77 a
20.5 2.47 b 4.80 b 7.56 b 12.15 b
(b)-Parameter
Yarn type Conv. ring 1.62 a 3.45 a 5.77 a 8.73 a
Siro 1.26 a 3.02 a 4.15 a 7.27 b
Fiber fineness 20 – 1.5 1.67 a 3.76 a 6.18 a 10.05 a
(µ – denier) 21 – 1.5 1.21 a 2.71 b 3.74 b 5.95 b
Different letters next to the counts indicate that they are significantly different from each other at 5% significance level.

between AC values for different yarn types at 50, 75 and
100 cycles. With the increment of abrasion cycles set to
150, the difference becomes significant. Fiber fineness is a
significant factor affecting AC values at 75, 100 and 150
cycles.
Test results for both wool and wool-polyester chenille
yarns are presented in Table 3 and show that the average
AC values have a tendency to decrease when coarser fibers
are used in the pile yarns. These results are in accord with
the mass loss results of chenille yarns and fabrics.
TRJ 320 Textile Research Journal 76(4)
Figure 3 AC values versus abrasion cycles: (a) for wool chenille yarns, (b) for wool-polyester chenille yarns.
When we look at the results for yarn type, the AC values
for sirospun yarns were lower than conventional ringspun
yarns at all levels of abrasion cycles but this behavior was
only significant at 100 and 150 cycles for wool and at 150
cycles for wool-polyester type chenille yarns.
The AC values of wool and wool-polyester blended che-
nille yarns are presented in Figure 3. There is a decrease in
the AC values with the use of polyester in chenille yarns
which is similar to the mass loss results when the effects of
varying structural parameters are not taken into considera-
tion. Structural parameters such as twist also have an effect
on abrasion but it was constant in this study. It is generally
stated that the ability of a fiber to withstand repeated dis-
tortion is the key to its abrasion resistance. In a general
assessment of fiber abrasion resistance, polyamide is the
most outstanding in terms of abrasion resistance followed
by polyester, and wool and cotton have a moderate abra-
sion resistance. Blending either nylon or polyester with
wool and cotton has been found to increase their abrasion
resistance [13].
In addition to variance analyses, the linear correlation
coefficients were calculated in order to confirm the rela-
tionships between the methods of abrasion evaluation. All
the correlation coefficients are listed in Table 4, to check
Table 4 Simple correlation coefficients between results of yarn mass loss, fabric mass loss and AC at different abrasion
cycles.
Correlation
Correlation Correlation
coefficient, r
Yml 50 –Fml 0.929 AC 50 – Fml
Yml 75 –Fml 0.979 AC 75 – Fml
Yml 100 –Fml 0.933 AC 100 – Fml
Yml 150 –Fml 0.983 AC 150 – Fml
Yml is yarn mass loss; Fml is fabric mass loss and AC is abrasion coefficient obtained from image analysis.
Numbers next to the letters indicate abrasion cycles.
whether the abrasion results obtained by different methods
were coherent.
The border value of the correlation coefficient at a ran-
dom degree n–2 = 6, and the significance level α = 0.05,
above which the correlation exists, was 0.707. According to
this, there is linear correlation between all methods. The
high values that were obtained (above 0.9, except for one
case) for the correlation coefficients confirmed a strong
linear correlation between the abrasion evaluation meth-
ods.
It is worth noting some rules. The strongest linear corre-
lation coefficients (above 0.98) obtained were between the
methods: yarn mass loss at 150 abrasion cycles and fabric
mass loss; AC at 150 abrasion cycles and fabric mass loss;
and yarn mass loss at 150 and AC at 150 abrasion cycles.
Depending on the above-given findings, it can be assumed
that at least one method in all these correlations has the
same number of cycles of abrasion concerning the abrasion
period. It was observed that the correlation relationships
between the methods increase as the number of abrasion
cycles is increased. This is confirmed by the high values of
the correlation coefficients: 0.983, 0,997 and 0.983.
The simple correlation coefficients were computed,
indicating that the weakest linear correlation was between
Correlation Correlation
Correlation
coefficient, r coefficient, r
0.946 Yml 50 – AC 50 0.887
0.939 Yml 75 – AC 75 0.947
0.968 Yml 100 – AC 100 0.926
0.997 Yml 150 – AC 150 0.983
 Evaluation of Chenille Yarn Abrasion Behavior with Abrasion Tests E. K. Çeven and Ö. Özdemir
yarn mass loss at 50 abrasion cycles and AC values at 50
abrasion cycles (coefficient r = 0.887). This is caused by
one factor: the cycle of abrasion is lower than that of the
others using these methods.
If a comparison is made between the evaluation meth-
ods according to the twelve correlation coefficients: it can
be seen that as the abrasion performances of chenille yarns
can be measured in yarn form either with the abrasion test
or with image analysis, measuring the abrasion in yarn
form will enable predictions to be made about fabric abra-
sion performance. It will be a practical method and enable
a rapid laboratory interpretation.
Conclusion
In this study, the abrasion behavior of wool and wool-
blended chenille yarns was analyzed with a computerized
image analysis method. In addition to image analysis, yarn
and fabric abrasion tests were also carried out to assess abra-
sion resistance and to determine the relationship between
the mass loss values and values obtained from image analy-
sis. The influence of some parameters of chenille yarns on
yarn abrasion, fabric abrasion and abrasion coefficient val-
ues obtained from image analysis was investigated.
We have shown that pile yarn material and pile yarn
fiber fineness, as well as pile yarn type have significant
influences on the abrasion resistance and the serviceability
of wool and wool-blend chenille yarns and fabrics in
accordance with past findings. Pile loss is encouraged by
inadequate fiber adherence. Careful choice of the pile and
core yarns to increase the inter-fiber friction may assist in
reducing the rate of pile loss. Our results imply that using
polyester fiber in the blends, wool fibers with appropriate
fineness and sirospun pile yarn type in the production will
help to produce chenille yarns with high abrasion resist-
ance. Chenille yarns with high pile density are abraded less
than those with low pile density. Using wool fibers with
appropriate fineness is intended mainly to assist in avoid-
ing the slippage of the piles from the lock yarns.
In order to find the practical plane of comparison for
values obtained by the three kinds of abrasion measure-
ments, linear correlation coefficients were calculated. An
assessment of the abrasive behavior of chenille yarns and
fabrics in terms of AC values, mass loss in yarn and fabric
form reveals that there are strong linear correlation rela-
tionships between the abrasion evaluation methods. This is
confirmed by the high values of correlation coefficients
(above 0.9).
Based on the results we conclude that abrasion meas-
urements of chenille yarns in yarn form (mass loss and
image analysis) will make it possible to predict the fabric
abrasion performance. So it will be a practical method and
enable a rapid laboratory interpretation. Furthermore, it
321 TRJ
will be useful to carry out studies about the effect of pile
yarn fiber fineness, pile yarn type and fiber material on the
dimensional and physical properties of chenille yarns (yarn
shrinkage, dye absorption etc.), which is beyond the scope
of this study and should be the subject matter of future
studies.
Acknowledgement
We are grateful to the Baron Kala Industry and Trade Co.
for providing the chenille yarns. Ö. Özdemir and E: K.
Ceven wish to thank F. Kalaoğlu and Y. Ulcay, for very
useful discussions.
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