Observation and recommendation

Lever actuator
The valve is ON when the red indicator plugs on the actuator are aligned (i.e.
parallel)
with the piping and actuator body. Conversely, when the red indicator plugs are
perpendicular to the piping and actuator body, the valve is OFF and a no flow
condition is indicated
Normal stem packing wear can be compensated for by tightening the low profile nut
under valve lever. The bent tab on the locking plate must be bent down prior to
adjusting the nut. Turning the nut a quarter turn clockwise is usually sufficient. If no
leakage is detected upon flowing the valve, a locking plate tab must be turned up on
a
nut flat. If leakage is observed, continue to tighten the nut in clockwise eighth-turn
increments until leakage stops.

Valve
Valve repair should be handled immediately before any serious damage occurs to your
landscape or irrigation equipment. But before you look at the valves let's check your
irrigation wiring. Many irrigation problems can be caused by faulty wiring. A poor wire
connection or shorted wire can cause a valve to fail to open or close. Begin by turning off the
circuit breaker controlling the power to your irrigation system. Next check the all your wire
connections (automatic timer, valves, master control valve) Corroded wires due to water
seepage is a common cause of wiring malfunctions.Use a continuity tester also known as a
"multitester" to track down breaks in the circuit. Repair any faulty wiring making sure your
connections are waterproof by using a grease cap
Repairing Irrigation Valves

If none of your zones operate you want to check your master control valve. You may have
simply forgotten to turn it on after you winterized during the previous year. If just one zone is
malfunctioning the problem is probably due to a valve in that particular zone. Many water
distribution problems can be corrected by adjusting the flow control on the valve. Most
valves can be adjusted with a wrench by hand depending on the manufacturer. If a zone
does not shut off automatically it is probably a problem with the zone control valve. You can
try to dislodge any dirt or debris stuck in the diaphragm of the valve by using an external
bleed screw. If the problem still persists you will need to disassemble and clean out the valve
by following the manufacturer's instruction

Here Are The General Steps To Replace A Valve:
1. Turn off the water supply
2. Unscrew the valve bonnet from the valve body
3. Remove the valve bonnet assembly and spring
4. Gently pry the diaphragm out of it's seat
5. Flush out the valve body and seat with clean water
6. Press in a new diaphragm
7. Replace the spring and the valve bonnet
8. Tighten the screws or the hold down ring
9. Turn on the water
10. Check for leaks
Your main priority if you have a cracked or damaged valve body or bonnet is to
replace it immediatly. If a manual valve is leaking or becomes hard to turn you
should first check the packing nut. The packing nut is located at the top of the valve
bonnet where the stem enters the valve. This is a very common place to find a leak.
Start by loosening the packing nut. If the problem has not corrected itself check the
threads on the valve stem. If the threads are damaged you will need to replace the
entire valve stem