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forced air, high efficiency gas furnace and split central air conditioning system.

evaporator coil. This is what makes this a split system...the coil is "split" from the
condensing unit that is located outside the home in most cases.

TOOLS.
Refrigerant Gauges.
Vacuum Pump.
http://cre8tor.hubpages.com/hub/hvac-ductwork

How Heating and Cooling Systems Work
All climate-control devices or systems have three basic components: a source of warmed or
cooled air, a means of distributing the air to the rooms being heated or cooled, and a control used
to regulate the system (e.g., thermostat).
Furnaces and heaters put heat into the air to make your home warmer; air
conditioners remove heat to make your home cooler.


The typical HVAC system consists of two main parts: the external condenser and
the internal evaporator coil. These two parts work together to control cooling,
dehumidify or warm the air through the HVAC ducts in the house. It can be
possible to have two components in only one external unit, depending on your
preferences. The HVAC installation company will inform you if this is an option for
your home.
Air Conditioner Suction Line Pressure and Temperature - Typical Data
and What It Means
Determining proper suction "pressure" (really we're measuring a vacuum, not a
pressure) is critical for proper refrigeration equipment operation assessment. If the air
conditioner system suction pressure is too low (and that probably means the
temperature in the line also is "low") it could indicate
An incorrect setting of the TEV (thermostatic expansion valve) that meters
delivery of liquid refrigerant into the evaporator coil (cooling coil)
An oil slugged (oil logged) compressor, so refrigerant flow is blocked at the
evaporator - oil slugging can lead to a compressor body failure.
Note that if we're looking at oil-slugging, the compressor head temperatures will also be
abnormally high - which is how
that condition ruins an air conditioning compressor
Normally suction line pressure on air conditioning equipment is about 45 degF with a
suction pressure of 42 psi for Freon 12 and about 76 psi for Freon 22. The data points
for the new refrigerants will be a bit different, but this example makes clear that the air
conditioning system pressure measurement numbers (both suction vacuum and
compressor outlet side pressures and temperatures) will be different for each
refrigerant.

This article describes the connections, use, and reading of a refrigerant gas pressure test gauge
set. We describe the procedure for using test gauges when adding or replacing refrigerant:
charging an air conditioner, heat pump, refrigerator with refrigerant gas. We explain how a
refrigeration gauge set should be connected to HVAC equipment to avoid contamination
damage and we review the refrigeration system evacuation and cleaning procedure.
Guide to Refrigeration Gas Test Gauge Use
Recommendations for refrigeration gas pressure measurement using a test
gauge set
How to hook up a refrigerant test / charging gauge set to the test ports
Procedure for Charging the HVAC System or Appliance with Refrigerant
Using a Gauge Set
Questions & Answers about using a refrigeration gas pressure test gauge
Details on Proper Use of the Refrigeration Charging / Testing Gauge
Set to Keep Moisture & Dirt out of an Air Conditioner, Heat Pump,
Refrigerator, Freezer, etc.
To keep moisture out of a refrigeration system, in addition to finding and fixing leaks, we
need to know how to properly use a refrigerant gauge set with charging lines, and how
to use cap off plugs on the charging fittings.
To be clear, when connecting an HVAC refrigeration gauge set to test fittings on an air
conditioner or heat pump we must:
1. Connect the gauge set center supply tube to a canister of the proper refrigerant
gas matching the refrigerant in the system being tested
2. Leave some positive pressure of refrigerant gases in each of the two gauge test
connection hoses - the high pressure side and the low pressure side, so that
when the gauge hose fitting is connected to the service port on the HVAC
equipment no outside air or moisture are pushed into the system piping.
Refrigeration Servicing Gauge Set Installation & Use
Reading the Gauges on a Refrigeration Gauge Set
We use (and illustrate) a traditional Imperial System Analyzer gauge set that provides
three charging lines (refrigerant canister, high side, low side). This is a diaphragm type
gauge but other methods of measuring and charging systems are available.


How to Read the Low Pressure Side Refrigerant Gauge
The compound gauge at left is used on the low pressure side of the system and shows
pressure readings in black, from 0 to 300 psi gauge pressure. [Click any image to see
an enlarged, detailed version.]
Temperature corresponding to pressure is shown in red on this gauge for R12 and R22,
or for newer refrigerants on newer gauges.
Vacuum is also shown on this gauge on a scale from 0-30 in. Hg. in green..
Reminder: as we discuss at REFRIGERANT PRESSURE READINGS if you use pressure test
gauges (GAUGE, REFRIGERATION PRESSURE TEST) to measure the refrigerant pressure in
the static or equalized air conditioning or heat pump system, the gauges only tell you
the refrigerant pressure, not the quantity of refrigerant that is present in the system.
For example at 70F ambient temperature and with R12 refrigerant, the static system
pressure would be at 70 psi as long as there is enough refrigerant in the system to have
at least some in liquid state.


Reading the High Pressure Side Refrigerant / HVAC Test Gauge
The compound gauge on the right of this gauge set is used on the high pressure side of
the refrigeration system and shows refrigerant pressures, typically from 0 - 500 psi on
the black scale or 0 - 35 KG/CM
3
on the outermost red scale.
In the center of the refrigerant gauge the red scales give temperature readings for three
older refrigerants (this is an old gauge): R502, R12, and R22.
Attaching the Refrigeration Gauge Set to the Air
Conditioner, Heat Pump, or other refrigeration
equipment

Find the service ports
Central air conditioning systems, heat pumps, and split systems typically have service
ports installed specifically for the attachment of test gauges for system inspection,
evacuation, and charging.
Residential refrigerators, freezers, and window or portable air conditioners typically will
not have these service ports. To service one of those latter devices you'll need to cut
the refrigerant line and install (solder in place) a tee and a service port.
Our photo (left) shows four covered service ports on this split system
compressor/condenser unit. That's because this unit supports two indoor wall-mounted
cooling units.
If its not obvious to you that the larger diameter line is the low pressure or suction side
and the smaller diameter refrigerant line is the high pressure side, then really you
should not be messing with this equipment before taking a refresher class in HVAC
servicing and repair.
Using Temporary Access Valves for HVAC or Refrigeration Testing &
Diagnosis
Tapaline and other piercing valves are available in various sizes to allow the HVAC
technician to tap into the refrigerant lines on a system in order to perform diagnosis
where there are not already service valves installed. Smaller bullet-type valves are
installed using an allen wrench.
Use these valves as a temporary service tool, preferably attached on the process tube.
[See Types of air conditioner or heat pump compressors & compressor designs if you
don't know what a process tube is.]
Watch out: do not leave these temporary test valves on the refrigerant piping - you're
asking for a future leak. These valves are suitable to aid diagnosis of a refrigeration
system by avoiding disturbing the troubled state of the system (as you'd do if you had to
cut lines and solder in service valves just to do a test).
After using a temporary tap-in valve on the process tube at a compressor unit, you
should solder off the line puncture and add a permanent service valve fitting - the type
that uses a schrader valve and cap - also referred to as an access valve or line valve.
Connect the Test Gauges to the Air Conditioner, Heat Pump, etc
In the shop we connect both high and low pressure gauges to the equipment being
tested. In the field we usually use only the low pressure side, since high side problems
also show up on the low side.
On test gauge sets such as ours shown here, the service lines always open or close to
the gauges. You'll notice in our photo that both ends of the refrigerant hoses are
attached to the gauge set. On the front of this gauge are three blind connector plugs to
which we connect the hoses when the gauge is not in use - this step is to help keep the
gauge hoses clean of debris.
The gauge set has stop valve handles that you see on
either side of the gauge. These controls open or close the high or low side service lines
once they have been properly connected to the high or low side service port.
As we've mentioned before, we would not normally connect our gauge set to the service
ports without first attaching a can of the proper refrigerant to the gauge set service port
and then using that refrigerant to purge any air that may be in the refrigerant hoses.
That's to avoid blowing air and contaminants into the HVAC system.
The low pressure gauge is connected to the low side of the system at that service port.
On our gauges we used a blue flexible hose on the low-side gauge, a red hose on the
high side gauge, and a yellow hose on the center gauge service port just to help avoid
any confusion in the field.
The high pressure gauge (red hose) is connected to the high side of the system at that
service port.
The center service port on the gauge set is connected to a refrigerant canister, charging
device, or to an evacuator pump, depending on what the HVAC technician needs to do.
Depending on which valves you open or close, this gauge set permits charging the
refrigerant system on either the high side or the low side.
Refrigerant Test Gauge Hose Hookup Details
In our sketch below
(A) is the low side pressure gauge, (B) the high side pressure gauge, (C) is the service
line at the gauge center, connected to a refrigerant gas source or perhaps to an
evacuator pump. (D) is the location of the high side gauge control valve and (E) is the
functioning location of the low side control valve.
Watch out: Valves (D) and (E) are used to isolate their sides from the service port.
Open only one at a time, then close it before opening the other.
1. Attach the refrigerant canister to the gauge set
2. Loosely attach the low side gauge (A) line to the low side service port. Assure
that the service valve is turned all the way OUT
3. Open the refrigerant canister (C) and by opening the gauge valve (E - low side)
purge the lines (do not use the system's refrigerant to purge the gauge lines)
4. Tighten the service line to the service port
5. Turn off the refrigerant gas canister supply
6. Turn the equipment service valve in slightly and run the system. The gauge(s)
will indicate what the system is doing.
Watch out: as we warn at many places in this article series, do not send liquid
refrigerant into the low side of a refrigeration system. Liquid refrigerant will enter the
bottom of the compressor motor and can damage the compressor, or even if the
compressor tolerates and passes the refrigerant through its pumping system, the
refrigerant can carry away the lubricating oil from the compressor, and/or cause an air
trap in the system.
We use the same procedure for attaching the gauges to the high side of the system.
Restating a bit:
For the gauge set shown above, turn the valves all the way out to attach the gauges,
since service ports are stopped OFF.
Turn the gauge control valve all the way in (closed) to stop off the line to the
evaporator/condenser (depending on which valve you are using).
Attach the gauge hose test line loosely to the test port;
Feed a small amount of refrigerant through the gauge test line and the charging line to
purge any air. [NOTE that newer test equipment may provide other solutions for this
step to avoid releasing any refrigerant to the atmosphere.]
Then tighten the connection of the test hose to the equipment service port.
To Remove the Service Test Gauges on Refrigeration Equipment
Back-seat (all the way out) the equipment service valve to close off the service port,
then remove the gauge and cap both the service port and the test gauge hose ends.
Proper gauge connection and usage
The procedure depends on what pressure needs to be measured. High pressure or Low
Pressure.

If low pressure is to be measure, the process is simpler and quicker. Whereas high pressure
needs to be measure this implies to connect low pressure gauge, high pressure gauge and
purge air from the hoses.

For high or low pressure measurements before you start make sure both hand-wheels are in
the clockwise or shut off position or closed and the center or service hoses ends are
connected to the manifold in a closed circuit.

If only low pressure needs to be done, only the suction (low pressure site) service caps need
to be removed.
Remove valve caps on the suction (low pressure site) service valves.
At the low pressure site connect the low pressure gauge to the service valve. No
pressure reading should be present in the low pressure gauge.
Begin to front-sit the service valve stem. Looking at end of the service valve and using
a refrigeration wracked, rotate it clockwise (just a couple of turns or slightly), to front-
sit (open) the service valve stem. A pressure reading should appear in the low
pressure gauge. (Up to this point if high pressure needs to be measured).
Now that the low pressure has been measured and if not other service is required,
back-sit (close) the service valve stem. Close it gently, with the refrigeration wracked.
This action will shut off the flow of refrigerant to the low pressure hose.
Remove the pressure hose from the service valve.
Done.
If the high pressure needs to be measured, repeat the process to measure low pressure
describe above until a low pressure reading is obtained plus the following steps:
Connect the high site hose to the high site service valve.
Using the refrigeration wracked slightly front-sit the stem valve. A high pressure
reading should be obtained in the high pressure gauge.
To this point you should have a low and high pressure reading. If not other service is
necessary, properly purge the gauges or hoses in order to remove the gauges from the
system.
You need to move the high pressure in the high pressure hose to the low pressure
hose. In the high pressure hose there is high pressure liquid. You do not want to spill
this liquid.
Loose the back end of the center hose of the gauge. Slightly open the high pressure
hand-wheel. A quick and strong air noise will come out at the released end of the
center hose. This will purge the possible air trapped in the high pressure hose.
Likewise, to purge the air trapped on the low pressure hose, slightly open the low
pressure hand-wheel. This time the air coming out of the loose center end will be
steady and with a low air noise. While purging the low pressure site connect the loose
center hose to the terminal where it was before, to its holding fitting and tight it
gently. This will seal the hoses. In this way you have purged the three hose lines.
Closed the low pressure hand-wheel.
Now you are ready to move the high pressure to the low pressure.
Back-sit (close) the service liquid valve. (high pressure valve) Counterclockwise.
Open the high pressure hand-wheel, the high pressure will drop a little. With this
action you are distributing the high pressure between the manifold and the center
hose. Since the center hose is connected at both ends, not refrigerator will be loose.
Now you have a complete pressurized manifold up to the low pressure hose.
Now open the low pressure hand-wheel, gently. Just a little bit. You will see that the
high pressure will drop while the low pressure will rise, until they are in equilibrium or
almost equal. With both hand-wheels open, and with gauge pressure reading almost
equal, the system (the manifold, gauges, and hoses) is in equilibrium. Metering the
liquid into the low site will prevent possible damage to the compressor.
Closed the high site and low site hand-wheels, (Clockwise direction.). Otherwise, you
will have a lose of low site refrigerant pressure .
Remove the high pressure hose from the service valve.
Now you are ready to remove the low pressure hose. With the refrigeration wretched,
back-sit or close the service valve to shut off or cut the flow of refrigerant into the low
pressure hose.
You still have a pressure reading on the low pressure metering device or gauge. As
soon as you remove the low pressure hose from the service valve, such pressure will
drop.
Remove the low pressure hose from the service valve.
Caps the service valves. Both high and low pressure valves. Reinstall gauge port caps.
Done.






Purpose, dos and donts, and some advice:
Here are some extra tips for you before venturing into how to recharge air conditioner.
purpose of refrigerant charging is to add or remove, a specified amount
of refrigerant from an air conditioning system, such that you will get comfort air from the
air conditioner.
contrary to popular belief, refrigerant do not require periodical charging. It is not a
consumable item within an air conditioning unit, unless,
there is a leak within the system,
you have just changed an air conditioner part, OR
you are assembling a brand new air conditioner unit
refrigerant of 4xx series, e.g. R-404a are non azeotrope type refrigerants, EXCEPT for
R-410.
R-410 is a near azeotrope mixture.
So, whats the big deal between azeotrope and non azeotrope refrigerant?
Azeotrope refrigerants consist of more than one blend of refrigerants, but it acts like a
single refrigerant.
Non azeotrope refrigerants on the other hand, DO NOT act like a single refrigerant.
The implication is that, the blends will be lost from the system at different
proportions due to different boiling temperatures, whenever there is a leakage in the non
azeotrope refrigerant.
Hence, charging of non azeotrope refrigerant can only be carried out from zero to full.
Never top up this type of refrigerant in case of leakage.
Evacuate, and fill to adequate quantity.
Azeotrope, or near azeotrope blends will act as a single refrigerant, and therefore, may
be topped up in case of refrigerant leakage
do not overcharge as this will cause compressor damage,
do not undercharge
correct problems within the system, if subcooling or superheat is inadequate, even if the
pressure in the system has reached design state
never use open flame to heat up refrigerant cylinders. Use warm water instead
recover the excess refrigerant into recovery cylinder, if the system is overcharged
A little more before we go further into how to recharge air conditioner systems.

Ensuring adequate refrigerant charge:
Make sure that,
the amount of refrigerant superheat is about 10
o
F (5.5
o
C), or as per manufacturers
recommendation, OR
the amount of refrigerant subcooling is about 10
o
F (5.5
o
C), or as per manufacturers
recommendation, OR
the sight glass after (or on) the filter dryer is clear after charging.
Presence of bubbles means that there is no adequate charging
Its about time we look into details of "How to Recharge Air Conditioner".

How to recharge air conditioner style 1: From high side:
If the air conditioning unit uses a capillary tube expansion device, which does not contain a valve or any
moving parts, it is best to charge the unit at the high side.



This method is best used with capillary tube fitted systems.
Other criteria that will require this technique are inadequate subcooling, and to top up
refrigerant.
First,
1. stop the compressor,
2. know the refrigerant in the system, and get the correct refrigerant to be charged,
3. attach the refrigerant cylinder or canister to the center manifolds hose of the pressure
gauge set,
4. purge the line by throttling the plain gauges regulator, and the refrigerant cylinders
regulator.
Dont forget to close the regulators after purging,
5. attach plain pressure gauges hose of the gauge set, to the liquid line service valve of the
air conditioning unit.
Make sure that the protective cap of the service valve is taken out
6. open the plain gauges regulator slightly,
7. throttle the refrigerant cylinders regulator,
8. close the cylinders regulator when the pressure in the high pressure side reaches the
design operating pressure,
9. operate the air conditioning unit,
10. check the subcooling, and make sure that the sight glass is clear,
11. stop the air conditioning unit if the subcooling is inadequate. Repeat steps (7) to (10)
until the charging is adequate




How to recharge air conditioner style 2: From low side:
This method is best used with thermostatic expansion valve fitted systems.
Other criteria that will require this technique are inadequate superheat, and to top up
refrigerant.
First,

1. stop the compressor,
2. know the refrigerant in the system, and get the correct refrigerant to be charged,
3. attach the refrigerant cylinder or canister to the centre manifolds hose of the pressure
gauge set,
4. purge the line by throttling the compound gauges regulator, and the refrigerant
cylinders regulator.
Dont forget to close the regulators after purging,
5. attach compound pressure gauges hose of the gauge set, to the suction service valve of
the air conditioning unit.
Make sure that the protective cap of the service valve is taken out
6. open the compound gauges regulator slightly,
7. throttle the refrigerant cylinders regulator.
The pressure within the system shall be less than the condensing pressure of the
refrigerant
8. operate the air conditioning unit,
9. close the cylinders regulator when the pressure in the low pressure side reaches the
design operating pressure,
10. the charge should be adequate once the design pressure on the low side is reached, but it
is good to check the superheat, and make sure that the sight glass is clear

Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners

How to recharge air conditioner style 3: Using weight:
This method is used to charge refrigerant to an evacuated, or newly assembled, and moisture
removed air conditioning unit.
The steps,
1. stop the compressor,
2. know the refrigerant to be handled by the system, and get the correct refrigerant to be
charged,
3. attach the refrigerant cylinder or canister to the centre manifolds hose of the pressure
gauge set,
4. purge the line by throttling the compound gauges regulator, and the refrigerant
cylinders regulator.
Dont forget to close the regulators after purging,
5. attach compound pressure gauges hose of the gauge set, to the suction service valve of
the air conditioning unit.
Make sure that the protective cap of the service valve is taken out
6. put the cylinder on weighing scale,
OR
get adequate number of refrigerant canisters to charge the system
7. open the compound gauges regulator slightly,
8. throttle the refrigerant cylinders regulator,
9. operate the air conditioning unit,
10. close the cylinders regulator when the correct amount of refrigerant is added to the
system
11. check the superheat, operating pressure, and make sure that thesight glass is clear

Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners
Thats about it on how to recharge air conditioner systems. Remember that a leak free system do
not need regular refrigerant charging.









Superheat and subcooling
Superheat and subcooling are two phenomenon that will occur to a medium that boils and
condenses, respectively.
Air conditioning technician will use measurement of these properties
during troubleshooting and maintenance, to gauge performance of an air conditioning
system.
Superheat is defined as
The temperature rise beyond boiling temperature of a medium.

Whereas subcooling is
The temperature fall beyond the condensing temperature of a medium.

Significance of these two properties:
It is important for refrigerant leaving the condenser to be in saturated liquid state.
Hence, cooling beyond saturation point is required to ensure refrigerant to be in saturated liquid
state.
A good subcooling is about 5.5
o
C (10
o
F).
This measurement is used for capillary tube fitted systems.
Most air conditioner evaporators designed for residential, office building, and vehicles will require
that all refrigerant returning to the compressor, is in vapor state.
Therefore, superheat factor is important. Amount of this property is similar to that of subcooling,
and measured for thermostatic expansion valve (TXV)fitted systems.
1. Measuring refrigerant superheat:
1. know the handled refrigerant in your air conditioning system,
2. operating the air conditioning unit for and wait a few minutes, then,
3. attaching the compound pressure gauge (in a combination pressure gauge set) to the
suction line service valve,
4. followed by purging the connected line,
5. use a thermometer to measure the line temperature at the feeler bulb of thermostatic
expansion valve,
6. read off the suction line pressure from the gauge, and add about 2 psi (~ 0.14 bar) to
the reading to compensate for pressure drop from the evaporator to the service valve.
Please note that this addition is only applicable for small systems
7. read off the corresponding saturation temperature on the compound gauge at the
pressure in (6).
Most pressure gauge sets for air conditioner servicing will have a set of saturation
temperature values for different refrigerants.
You can, however, use p-H (pressure and enthalpy) chart for refrigerants to read off the
corresponding saturation temperature
8. then, subtract (7) from (5), and finally,
9. superheat can be increased by adjusting TXVs adjusting knob towards closed position,
and decreased by turning the knob in the opposite direction

Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners

2. Measuring refrigerant subcooling:
Begins with,
1. know the handled refrigerant in your air conditioning system,
2. operating the air conditioning unit and wait for a few minutes, followed by,
3. attaching the plain pressure gauge (in a combination of pressure gauge set) to the liquid
line service valve,
4. followed by purging the connected line,
5. then use a thermometer for measuring the tube temperature near the service valve,
6. read off the discharge line pressure from the gauge,
7. read off the corresponding refrigerant saturation temperature on the gauge,
8. subtract (5) from (7), and youll have the subcooling figure

Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners
Digital measuring equipments are widely used nowadays for measuring these values.
Refrigerant Charging for Air Conditioners

instructions
1.
o 1
Turn off the air conditioner compressor while leaving it plugged in. You will likely need to
remove one side panel from the air conditioning unit by removing its mounting screws to
access the compressor. If it is a window-based unit, remove it from the window first.
o 2
Attach the center manifold hose on the pressure gauge set to the canister or cylinder of
refrigerant. Purge the line of air by throttling the regulator on the canister and either the
plain or compound gauge--whichever gauge you will be using.
o Sponsored Links
o 3
Connect the plain pressure gauge hose on the gauge set to the air conditioner's liquid line
service valve if you are recharging the unit from the high side. If you are recharging from the
low side, connect the compound gauge hose to the suction service valve. Whichever hose
you use, compound or plain, the other hose won't be used.
o 4
Open the regulator for the gauge you connected to the air conditioner; open it only slightly.
Throttle the refrigerant can's regulator and observe the gauge that you are using. Close the
can's regulator once the gauge reaches the unit's design operating pressure.
o 5
Turn on the air conditioner and check the subcooling if you charged it through the high side;
check the superheat if you charged it from the low side. Shut off the unit and repeat the
previous step if the subcooling or superheat is inadequate.
o 6
Disconnect the gauge kit from the air conditioner (shut the compressor off again be fore you
do this) and reinstall the air conditioning unit as needed.


Refrigerant Evacuation for Air Conditioners
Evacuation of refrigerant in air conditioner has three
benefits. These are,
preparing the air conditioning system for total repair, e.g. compressor replacement,
making sure that refrigerant that is originally contained within the system, is not released
into the atmosphere
charging a non azeotrope (400 series, except for R-410) refrigerant
This type of air conditioning maintenance is performed by an external compressor, attached to
the system through the service valve.
How to perform refrigerant evacuation:

How evacuating refrigerant differs from pump down?
Good question. I wish I know the answer.
Air conditioning system pump down,
in a system without a receiver, will only permit maintenance from the
condensers outlet, to suction of the compressor
in a system with a receiver, will permit maintenance on all air conditioning
part, except for the receiver
On the other hand, evacuating refrigerant permits maintenance on all part of the system. The
process utilizes an external fluid mover, and an external refrigerant cylinder.
1. shut down the air conditioning unit,
2. attaching pressure gauge set tightly to the service valves.
Plain (High pressure) gauge set to be connected to the liquid line service valve, and
compound (low pressure) gauge to be connected to the vapour line service valve.
NOTE: Make sure that the regulators on the gauge set are in closed position
3. connect a vacuum pump to the centre manifold of the gauge set.
It is preferable that the vacuum set comes together with a dryer, so that moisture can be
removed from the evacuated refrigerant.
A cylinder to store the refrigerant is a MUST, and it should pass the regulations by EPA
(Environmental Protection Agency)
4. open the regulator of the compound (low pressure) gauge side,
5. operate the vacuum pump to draw the refrigerant out of the air conditioning system.
6. wait until the pressure within the system reaches 0.
Stop the pump and close the regulator
7. observe for pressure rise.
if the pressure rises rapidly until atmospheric pressure, then the connections
might be loose. Tighten the connections and redo steps (4) to (6), and observe.
if the pressure rises rapidly at this point, then there is a leak within the system.
Leak detection, repair and recharge is inevitable.
if the pressure rises slowly, then there is either moisture or remaining refrigerant
in the system.
Open the compound gauge regulator and resume evacuating
8. hold the pressure at 0 for a few hours or half a day (depending on the size of the ac
system),
9. isolate the gauge sets regulator and remove the gauge set,
10. do necessary repairs or parts replacement after the evacuation,
11. perform leak test after the repair or replacement,
12. evacuate refrigerant once more after the leak test.
Start from steps (2) to (9),
13. recharge the refrigerant using the previous refrigerant, or a new one

Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners

Evacuation. The governing law:
Recovered refrigerant shall never be sold or used for other air conditioners, unless if it is re-
processed by EPA approved facilities.


Difference between this page, and simple leak detection:
Simple leak detection methods can be carried out at user level. This method do not
require external pressurising of the system.
Pressure in from the compressor is enough to detect leaks.
Here is the page.

On the other hand,
This page will talk about extensive leak detection methods, used by technicians to pinpoint leaks,
and repair those.
External system pressurizing and vacuuming are required for this section.

Methods:
The methods involved are used together for best air conditioning system leak repair.
In the order of first to last,
1. pressure test,
2. halide torch leak detection, or ultrasonic leak detection,
(followed by leak repair or part replacement if any)
3. and finally, vacuum test



Step 1: Pressure test for refrigerant leak detection:
Function of pressure test is to raise the pressure in the system, and detect for pressure
drop during holding time.
Pressure drop in the holding test will mean that there is at least one point of leak.
This test is carried out after parts replacement, refrigerant evacuation, or after tube repair.
Steps for pressure test,
1. evacuate the system from refrigerant before the leak test,
2. attach the combination gauge set correctly and tightly.
The compound gauge should be connected to the suction service valve, and the plain
gauge should be connected to the liquid line service valve
3. adjust the knob on the service valves, and regulator on the gauge set, so that test gas
can be inserted through the centre manifold of the gauge set
4. insert Nitrogen gas into the system through the centre manifold and wait until the
pressure within the system to reach about 150 psiG (10 barG)
5. wait for a few hours and monitor the pressure reading on the gauges.
Please note that the systems pressure may rise slightly if the test is carried out on mid
day, due to temperature rise.
The inverse may happen when there is temperature drop at night.
However, this variation will be minimal
6. waiting time depends on the size of the system.
Larger systems may require 12 hours of waiting time. Leak detection within smaller
system can be achieved in 4 hours
7. check if there is a constant pressure drop.
Move to next step if there is any pressure drop.
Otherwise, release the Nitrogen gas and, move to Step 3: Vacuum test
8. you will be on this step if there is a pressure drop during holding test.
Next, insert a small amount of R-22 into the system through the centre hose, until the
pressure reaches about 150 psiG


Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners
Hang on. Whats next?
Well move on to Step 2 of refrigerant leak detection.


Step 3: Vacuum test:
It is the final leak detection step after the pressure test is passed.
The reason,
to double check on the Step 1 of refrigerant leak detection,
to detect moisture within the system, as moisture ingress might have happened during
repair works
The steps are similar to (1), (2) and (3) in Step 1, but this time, gas will not be inserted, but
vacuumed out of the air conditioning system by an external compressor.
Vacuum until the pressure within the system is 0 bar absolute.
Wait for a few hours, depending on the size of the air conditioner and monitor the pressure
rise.
If the pressure rises until 1 bar absolute, then there is leak.
If the pressure rises, but it is lower than 1 bas absolute, then moisture is present.


Courtesy for condenser picture: Bryant Air Conditioners
Whats next? Either remove the moisture, or repair, and redo the refrigerant leak testing.
Refrigerant Leak Detection of Another
Dimension...
You will discover in this page, ways of refrigerant leak detection carried out
by certified technicians, as part of air conditioning maintenance.
Youll love it if you dont like refrigerant leak in your system. I dont like refrigerant leak either,
so here comes the information.
We wouldnt want to lose refrigerant due to leaks in the system, and threat the environment
using the Global Warming banner. Hence refrigerant leak detection is no joke.
Acidity test
Is used to check for acidity in the refrigerant, or lubrication oil. This test isextremely important
in making sure that the compressor will not fail prematurely, from parts erosion and corrosion.
Acid formation within the system happens due to excessive temperaturerise, thus disintegrating
the refrigerant into chlorine based, or fluorinebased acid.
Normal causes for excessive temperature rise are insufficient lubrication, or insufficient cooling
from the return refrigerant vapour.
The test could be performed by attaching a bulb to the vapour line service valve, and analysing
the colour change of the litmus element.

Courtesy: Qwik
Such bulb is currently being
produced byQwik
TM
,
named QwikCheck.
According to Qwik
TM
, if the
result of the test
shows red, then the system
needs to be flushed from
acid, refrigerant needs to
be changed, filter dryer
replaced, and lubrication oil
needs to be replaced.
An orange indication means that the filter dryer needs a replacement, and the system needs to
be flushed.
System flushing,
is essential air conditioning maintenance in removing acid from the system.
The best way to flush after detecting acid, is,
1. To evacuate the system,
2. Remove the compressor and the lubrication oil,
3. Get yourself a flushing solvent, compatible to your refrigerant. Flush the system, and the
compressor,
4. Blow with air and let it dry,
5. Change the filter dryer, and lubrication oil,
6. Reassemble the system, evacuate, and charge with new refrigerant

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