Part 1: Ironing-Pressing-Finishing

Exploring Developments in Ironing and Correct Processes

Often the words ironing, pressing and finishing are used interchangeably without realising that
these are three different functions with different objectives. A deeper look will reveal that there
is a wide spectrum of parameters for each item of equipment. Shape, size, weight, compatibility
with the fabric, table size and dimensions... the list is endless.
Traditionally, ironers learned from old generations (like tailors) by word of mouth and used age-
old equipment (heavy electrically heated iron and padded wooden tables). The use of steam and
vacuum was never taught to the iron wielders scientifically, resulting in grossly incorrect
methods being followed.
StitchWorld compiles these three ignored but very important topics of ironing, pressing and
finishing in collaboration with Gunter Veit of Veit and Phillip J Harber of Hoffman. The article
is split into two Parts, with this edition, Part 1, discussing Ironing. Part 2, to be published in the
next issue, will feature Pressing and Finishing.
Ironing, Pressing and Finishing are all different processes that aim to remove the unwanted
crease and impart wanted creases. A crease can be removed either by compressing between
two flat surfaces or by applying tension (stretching). Ironing involves relative movement or
friction between two flat surfaces, while pressing involves compression between two surfaces
(but no relative motion between them). Pressing can be done by compressing between either two
flat or curved surfaces, e.g., by pressing a convex and a concave surface together, a crease in the
fabric can be removed while shaping of the fabric can be done simultaneously.

Finishing removes the unwanted crease by stretching, but cannot impart a wanted crease.
Both ironing and pressing can remove or impart a crease.

Pressing to remove
crease (Courtesy: Veit)
Distinguishing Electric-steam Iron from All-steam Iron
The all-steam iron was the first type of iron to be developed, followed
by the steam electric iron, an improvement. The difference between the
two is that in an all steam iron, steam is used to heat the iron and
discharge a moist spray, whereas a steam electric iron uses a heating
element to keep the iron warm (and control the temperature) and a
solenoid holds the steam from the iron until called for. This method is
safer, as all steam irons have live steam circulating in the iron and the
iron hoses can burst and scald someone. The steam electric iron also
has a hose but the electric solenoid holds the steam out of the hose
until the electric micro-switch is touched on the iron. Thus there is no
steam under pressure in the iron.

In all-steam irons, temperature depends on the pressure of the steam.
This limits the working temperature for the irons between 140 to 1500
C, whereas a steam electric has a thermostat which will allow the
temperature to be finely adjusted from 100 to 2000 C. Cotton and linen
need at least 1800 C for ironing. To achieve that temperature, it is
necessary that we have electric heated steam irons. Various models of
all steam irons are available for final pressing, under-pressing, seam
opening, touch-up and flat-knit finishing.

Temperature is very critical in ironing equipment. Unfortunately,
people tend to overlook the importance of the same. Critical fibres like
viscose and polyester can react too quickly to the heat and faults in
quality like shines and marks might show up due to the effect of
temperature. However the latest offering from major suppliers provide
temperature difference less than 20 C to the preset temperature,
thereby ensuring quality ironing. There is no worry about burning on
light weight fabric and chemical fibres as they are finished only by the power of steam.

Weight of an Iron
n yesteryears, it was thought the more the weight, the better the press. In fact it is not the weight
but the extra temperature from the mass that dries a garment faster. Today we use vacuum tables
to remove the heat and moistureso a light-weight iron is all that is required. Since we use steam
to do the ironing and not the weight or the pressure of the irons, the weight of the irons are not
very critical any more. It is better to have lighter irons that helps the operator to do the ironing
easily. Weights of irons vary from 1 to 2 kg.

Surface Characteristics of an Iron
There are different surfaces for irons like aluminium, aluminum coated, chrome plated, stainless
steel and Teflon soles. These are recommended based on the product to be ironed. Aluminum
base irons are some times anodised to give it a harder surface, which is similar in looks to Teflon
soles but not in properties. If the iron surface is highly polished, during ironing the small
invisible protruding fibres in the fabric surface are aligned in regular fashion, resulting in
uniform light reflection thus shine. Also, a polished smooth surface means increased area of

Form finishing to
remove crease
(Courtesy: Veit)

Electric-steam iron
(Courtesy: Naomoto)

All-steam iron
(Courtesy: Naomoto)
contact, greater heat transfer, burning of the protruding fibres, ultimately resulting in shine on the
fabric surface.
Electric Steam Iron All steam Iron
Steam condensation Is a problem Is not a problem
Maximum temperature achievable 2000 C 140 to 1500 C
Safety Safer Less safe
Teflon coating gives the surface matte finish, which decreases the area of contact between iron
surface and cloth and also aligns the fibres protruding haphazardly.

While Teflon is the flavour, there are several other patented high perform-ance sole finishing in
use by different leading iron manufacturers such as Tufflon and
titanium plated iron soles.
Steam Brush
A steam brush is indispensable to finish off smoothening out creases
and undoing shrinkage. It is very rational since it can be used to finish
a hanging garment on a hanger. With high quality and strong steam, it
is suitable for finishing such clothes as light suits, synthetic fibres and
even gathers and frills. A feather-touch type of solenoid valve is
adopted. The light touch switch will largely eliminate working burden.

Steam Cushion Frame Sole
Steam cushion frame sole has many fields of application, like knits,
velours and accessories such as scarves. Also, if there are different
materials (mixed fibres) in one garment, refinishing can easily be done
by ironing over it gently. A steam cushion frame sole is suitable
especially for precise smaller re-finishing operations, for example,
touch-up of button strips or removal of pressure marks.

Iron Soles
Iron soles reduce the surface temperature between the iron and the
garment. Therefore, the danger of scorching is reduced to a minimum.
The Teflon coating prevents sheen and helps the iron to glide smoothly. Evenly spaced holes
ensure a constant flow of steam.

Steam brush
(Courtesy: Naomoto)

Steam cushion frame
sole
(Courtesy: Veit)
Shape and Size of an Iron
The size and also the shape of the iron is very critical in ironing as
sometimes there are points in a garment which can never be
reached by an iron. With the new pointed soleplate, complicated
ironing of tucks or pleats is no longer a problem. A slightly arched
soleplate point enables improved sliding features. The very low
weight of only around 1400g facilitates smooth gliding over the
garments. The iron handle is ergonomically shaped with integrated
contactor switch to release steam.

Standard equipments provide contact and heat protection, handle support, holder for iron soles
and swivel bow for iron support gantry. Lastly, wear and tear parts can be replaced easily and
quickly. Electronic control unit Veitronic as an option (Veitronic is included on Varioset S/B -
ironing tables), may be used to control temperature accuracy within 20C ( 30F).

Apart from general features, the uses of different shapes and sizes depends on where the iron is
used; for example, either in inline pressing or on final pressing. Inline pressing needs irons of
small width whereas finish or final pressing needs an iron with a bigger surface area to reduce
the time on ironing. The shape and size depends on the application a narrow iron for seam
opening and a wide base when pressing a panel.

Iron soles (Courtesy: Veit)

Wide base flat iron (Courtesy:
Veit)

Seam opening iron (Courtesy:
Veit)
Seam Opening Iron
A seam opening form should have a rounded surface. No
pressure is given to the edges to avoid seam impressions. The
narrow shape of this iron can easily access even small seams.
Steam is only released through one row of outlets at the centre
of the iron so that steam outlets apply steam only to centre of
the seam, thus preventing marks.

New Developments
Different companies are offering continuous improvement in
design to improve performance, save energy and make a user-
friendly product. For example:
The drainage and water feeding hoses are combined into one hose in irons to make it a
user-friendly product.
Steam volume can be easily and finely adjusted by using a swing lever, push lever or
feather-touch type switch.
Specific design to ensure low centre of gravity and height, which makes its use easy and
smooth.
Types of Tables
There are three types of iron tables available. Firstly, the universally / commonly used vacuum
table, where the vacuum is sucked through the table surface to lay the garment flat on the surface
as well as suck the residual moisture and heat from the garment after ironing. The second type of
iron table is the up-steam table where steam comes up from table surface through garments
thus moistening the garment. This is used for knitted garments, where ironing is not advisable as
the movement of the iron deforms the garment. An up-steam table guarantees a complete and
even distribution of steam and suction over the whole surface. Inclination of the surface is
possible by 60, 90 or 120. All parts contacted by steam are made of stainless steel. This prevents
spots from corrosion and guarantees a long working life and trouble-free operation. There is a
little known third type: the Blow up table which is unique for any garment pressing, without
leaving any marks. In 1969, VEIT invented the blow up table and also the tubular ironing
method that offers cushioning effect to the garments due to the upward thrust of air from the
table which prevents ironing marks on the garments. Air blowing is used in combination with
vacuum to assist in finishing the garment without leaving marks. When a vacuum is used, the
garment is drawn toward the pressing surface. On multiple plies, it leaves impression marks (due
to seamlines). Using air blowing, the garment is expanded and pressed on a cushion of air where
ironing is possible without putting in marks. This is especially good on lined garments and silks.
VEIT Varioset table has inbuilt suction and blowing functions as standard and all VEIT Uniset
tables have the blowing function as an option.

Narrow base seam opening
iron
(Courtesy: Veit)
The structure and importance of the cloth cover system
The table surface with proper vacuum suction system helps
keep the garment cool and dry in a minimal time. To maintain
proper suction, it is very important to have a proper cover
system which should not be too hard or too soft. The cover
cloth should be porous to be able to draw the vacuum through
the garment to dry and cool it. Old time pressers sometimes use
other materials. They make a very soft surface but it has a
tendency to cause the iron to dig into the fabric and leave
marks. Cloth-cover should also be heat-resistant and processed
for anti-static electricity.

Proper combination of cover systems assists in achieving better and uniform suction across the
suction table. There are Five layers, the Top Cover, the Intermediate Layer, Adjusting
Fibre, Base Layer and Ironing Surface.

The Top Cover may consist of either synthetic fibre, which has long life, short-term heat-
resistance up to 1800 C and hand washable in soap water (300 C), or polyester fibre, especially
for fabrics that are subject to sheen and mostly used with hard covers (seam ironing). It could
also use synthetic coarse fibre, which is slide resistant. It keeps the garment as positioned, has a
long life and short-term heat-resistance up to 1900 C.

The Intermediate Layer consists of 5 or 10 mm of foam as cushion for covers.

The Adjusting Fibre guarantees the complete splitting of the condensate drops and reduces the
humidity in the cover system.

Up steam table (Courtesy:
Veit)
The Base Layer is generally a patented silicon mat for long-
term good suction/ blowing result. This distributes strong
airflow evenly over the entire surface/ form buck, can be
cleaned easily by compressed air, ensures long lifetime with
unchanged performance. It could also be of polyurethane
material of 6 mm thickness, which permits good air flow over
the entire surface/form buck, is water-resistant for a dry
surface/form buck and can be hand washed in soap water. This
is an economic solution for medium term good suction/blowing
result.

The hardness of silicone foam sheet used in the cladding is very
crucial for getting a soft finish. Different parts of a garment
have differential thickness (due to seam lines), often resulting
in seam impression or shine. The side and inseam of a trouser is
a classic example. In the past, this was achieved by pasting
silicone/foams of different hardness, which always caused
problems with marks at the edges and poor durability. Now
silicone/foam sheets are available with softer central stripe
allowing the seam of a trouser to sink in whilst the crease is
pressed with the harder sides. The latest offering in
silicone/foam with central stripe is being produced without pasting one piece of foam with strong
silicone coating at the sides and less silicone coating at the central stripe. Trials proved a
constant ironing quality with a better ironing result compared to obsolete glued-together sheets.

Conventional silicone coated foam sheets are prone to destruction of the homogeneous silicone
surface during use, due to bursting air bubbles. This reduces the heat resistance and the life of the
foam. New generation silicone/ foams are being produced with a unique silicone penetration
technique using ultrasound vibrations preventing formation of air bubbles between the silicone
coating and the foam base, thus extending the replacement interval and providing a constant
ironing quality.
Some Common Cover Systems
Industry Hard Cover. The Industry Hard Cover consists of a
top cover which is synthetic, a middle layer of adjusting fibre
and a base layer. This is especially suitable for insensitive
fabrics and used in underpressing for ironing small parts such
as flaps, welts and cuffs on surfaces or bucks.

Industry Soft Cover. Depending on requirements, the
intermediate foam layer can be of different strength, which avoids pressure marks of buttons,
pockets, etc. on the part to be ironed. It is used in finishing - for all necessary operations and in
underpressing for silk fabrics.

The Ironing Surface (E) of tables and bucks, consists of a corrosion-resistant perforated plate or


Vomatex cladding for trouser
seam busting
a bored casting mould with an additional light metal grid for an evenly spread suction and
blowing airflow (avoids wet covers).
The Shape of the Ironing Table
There are two basic shapesutility (like an ironing board) and
rectangular. The utility is best for dresses, bottoms, etc., while the
rectangular is used for underpressing (in line pressing) and flat
pressing of childrenswear and shirts. Auxiliary shapes are
attached either for specialised areas such as sleeves or bust. The
shape of the ironing table is not only important for ease of
handling of different types of garment, but also to give shape to
garments. For example, egg buck or mushroom shape is used to
give shape to waistbands. There are numerous buck shapes
available to press the jackets as it is designed to press and also to
shape the jackets while ironing. Even utility or rectangular iron
tables are not enough while ironing some critical areas of garment,
eg, side, back and shoulder armhole portion of any top. Ironing
right and left sides require mirroring of table shape. In 1997,
Electrolux Orton developed a Shape Change iron table capable of
ironing varied needs, where the table corner could be expanded to
accommodate the garment.
Ironing is often considered too trifling to get anyone trained in the
method. Movement of iron over the garment also should follow
certain rules; from the right side of the ironing table to the left
requires steam, not suction and from the left side of the ironing
table to the right means no steam, a dry iron and suction. Vacuum
and steam should never be applied together. Movement of the iron,
application of steam and application of vacuum, these three should
follow a rhythm (like driving a car) to generate an effective
ironing result. A common mistake followed in most of the
factories is ironers applying steam while the vacuum is on. Such
incorrect processes, though they do not result in any quality shortcomings in the garment (the
reason why it goes unnoticed), bring in staggering energy bills and incorrect motion slows down
productivity.


Utility type iron table
(Courtesy: Veit)

Rectangular iron table
(Courtesy: Veit)