How To Test the Control Module

There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some
of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face
plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.
Caution: Please read our safety information before attempting any testing or repairs.
Before testing the control module, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A modular unit will have several holes in the module, each marked with a letter (similar to the one pictured below).
These holes are for test probes. If there are no holes then the ice maker is a component model and the components can
be tested individually. For component models, refer to the individual component's in the diagnostic table.

In this section we will test the ejector motor and mold heater. The thermostat is a separate
component and covered in another article.
Testing should be done with the power off, the shutoff arm in the down, "on" position and
the ejector blades in the "start" position. The position of the blades will vary among ice
makers, but the start position is always with the blades over (not in) the ice mold tray. If the
ejector blades are in the mold, it will not be possible to properly test the control module.
Furthermore, if the blades are in the mold area, then they did not complete their cycle, and
may suggest a failure of the modular unit.
How to test the water inlet valve
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multitester. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's
ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the
multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe
on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't
know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass
this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note
that they may not have the same ohm rating).
The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require
replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
How To Test the Thermostat
A modular ice maker 's thermostat can be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester set to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the
thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into
the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has
warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).
If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.


How To Test the Motor
Caution: Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module motor for
continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the
hole labeled "M" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should show
continuity, with resistance possibly as high as 10,000 ohms.
If the motor does not pass this test, you will probably need to replace the control module.

How To Test the Mold Heater
Caution: Conduct this test with the refrigerator unplugged. Test the control module heater for
resistance using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place one probe into the
hole labeled "H" and the other probe into the hole labeled "L". The multitester should read in the
range of 60 to 90 ohms.

If the heater does not pass this test, replace the ice mold heater.
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