Professional Documents
Culture Documents
2014
WalesView
2014
Coast & Country: award-winning beaches & mountain waterfalls
A tale of two cities: an insiders guide to Swansea & Cardiff
Chris Packham: celebrating the natural wonder of Wales
Adventure playground: mountain biking in Wales
Matthew Rhys: celebrating the life of Dylan Thomas
Plus travel and holiday information
visitwales.com
Front cover
Rhossili, Gower Peninsula
This page
Dylan Thomass Writing Shed, The Boathouse, Laugharne
Opposite page, top to bottom
Matthew Rhys
Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Mission Gallery, Swansea
Conwy Castle, Conwy
BikePark Wales
Welsh produce
For a tiny piece of the planet, there is rather a lot to see and do in Wales.
We like to keep ourselves entertained, with festivals, anniversary celebrations and
sporting events. You can see this reected in the natural enthusiasm of the people
of Wales. We use the country as our playground. It provides us with wonderful food
and inspires us to create great works of art and literature.
Wales is a modern, diverse country with a great heritage for everyone to enjoy;
and we look forward to sharing all these memorable experiences with you.
Visit Wales cannot guarantee the accuracy
or reliability of the information in this
publication and hereby disclaim any
responsibility for any error, omission
or misrepresentation. To the fullest
extent permitted by law all liability for
loss, disappointment, negligence or
other damage caused by reliance on
the information contained in this guide
is excluded. You are advised to check
all details and information with the
business concerned before conrming a
reservation. All rights reserved. Material in
this publication must not be reproduced
in any form without permission from the
copyright owners please contact Visit
Wales. Opinions expressed in Wales View
are not necessarily those of Visit Wales.
Wales View is published by Visit Wales,
the Tourism and Marketing division of the
Welsh Government 2014.
Visit Wales, Welsh Government, QED
Centre, Main Avenue, Treforest Industrial
Estate, Treforest, Pontypridd CF37 5YR
(WG18041)
Managing Editors Iestyn George and
Charles Williams. Printed by Westdale Press.
Print ISBN: 978 1 4734 0418 2
Digital ISBN: 978 1 4734 0409 0
Crown copyright (2013) Visit Wales
Design & photography: Visit Wales
Creative Services.
Other photography: Bodnant Welsh Food
Centre, Celtic Manor Resort, Grace Elliott,
David Frost, Getty Image, Steve Hartley/
CBMWC, Charles Hawes, Gweldd Conwy
Feast, Ian Jones, Rainy Day Films, Steve Read,
Kiran Ridley, Lee Miller Archives, S4C, Nick
Treharne, Universal Studios, Wales Screen
Commission, Wrights Independent Food
Emporium and Ynys-Hir RSPB.
Back cover quotation: from Idyll of
Unforgetfulness by Dylan Thomas
The Trustees for the copyright of
Dylan Thomas, 1929.
This publication is also available in Braille,
large-format print, and/or audio from
Visit Wales.
info@visitwales.co.uk
1 visitwales.com
Printed on recycled paper
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Dylan Thomas
Actor Matthew Rhys on Waless
best-known literary gure,
kicking off a year of centenary
celebrations in 2014.
Wales on lm
Visit the beauty spots that drew
Johnny Depp, Keira Knightley and
Dobby the House Elf to Wales.
Coast & country
BBC television presenter Chris
Packham celebrates the wildlife
of Wales, alongside your guide to
its great gardens, beaches, islands
and waterfalls.
A tale of two cities
International wheelchair athlete
and television presenter Liam Holt
explores the visitor attractions
of Cardiff and Swansea.
On the town
A celebration of the historic
market towns of Wales.
Events diary
Why not book your Welsh break
around one of the exciting events
taking place here in 2014?
The castles of Wales
An appetising guide to a selection
of the 641 historic castles we have
in Wales.
Myths & legends
Magical stories from all over Wales,
featuring an assortment of dragons,
water monsters and fairies.
Royal connections
Follow in the footsteps of royals
down the centuries and youll end
up in Anglesey, former home of
Prince William and Kate.
Mountain biking
Discover why Wales has become a
leading destination for mountain
bikers from all over the world.
Adrenaline Wales
Wales Views youngest contributor
tells us what its like to y 500 feet
(152 metres) in the air along the
longest zip wire in Europe.
Food & drink
Whether youre foraging or
feasting, the natural produce grown
in Wales is unrivalled for freshness
and avour.
In the lap of luxury
Go on, spoil yourself...
Essential information
Travel information, area guides
to Wales and FAQs.
Wales map
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Contents
visitwales.com 2
O
n a Sunday morning, a black-clad
jogger trots up to the Wales View
editorial door. The jogger pulls off his
beanie and a mop of curls springs out,
a wide smile not far below. Ive been
up the Taff Trail, beams Matthew Rhys,
whos just been running along the
long-distance path that skirts the Cardiff
suburb where he was born. I love it, I
run up there whenever Im back home.
The 39-year-old radiates health and
happiness. Hes a delightful, energising
presence, talking quickly in his melliuous
baritone. He throws in impressions
and accents for free (many of them
American, because thats where hes
now based, in Los Angeles). He laughs,
a lot. Matthew Rhys is not an actor of
the tortured variety, clearly.
Life is good, he agrees. Hes currently
the star of one of the worlds biggest TV
shows, The Americans, in which he plays
a Soviet KGB spy living a chillingly tense
undercover existence in Washington DC
during the Cold War. Still, its not half
as scary as being Dylan Thomas. Rhys
played the iconic poet in The Edge of
Love, a role which required him to be
one-third of a love-triangle with two of
the most beautiful stars of British lm,
Keira Knightley and Sienna Miller. Tough
job? Yes, actually.
I was terried! laughs Rhys. Everyone
in Wales has this incredibly strong sense
of who Dylan should be. But theres no
footage of him, weve only got his voice
recordings. So no-one really knows who
he is. When I was researching the role, I
tried to read as many peoples accounts
of him as I could, to try and get an
image of him. I spoke to his daughter
Aeronwy as well, who gave me a good
few pointers. She said, His hands were
like two dead sh, which I thought was
wonderful!
As an actor, Rhys is awestruck by
Dylans dazzling way with words. But
does he also think the poet would have
So why does Dylan Thomas
mean so much to Wales?
Who better to ask than
Matthew Rhys, the Cardiff-
born actor who played the
mercurial poet so brilliantly
in The Edge of Love.
Interview by Charles Williams
Being
Dylan
Main
Matthew Rhys as Dylan Thomas
in The Edge of Love
Opposite clockwise from top left
Matthew Rhys and Sienna Miller
in The Edge of Love
Sienna Miller and Kiera Knightley
lming in Wales
Best friends Matthew Rhys and
Ioan Gruffudd
3 visitwales.com
Thomas lived the life he wanted, on his own
terms. Thats quietly admired in the chapels.
Arts and culture
Dylan Thomas
been an interesting chap to share
a pint with?
I do, actually, although from what I
read, not everyone who met him liked
him. He had the wit, along with the ever-
present Welsh darkness, and very little
patience.
So why does he remain such an iconic
gure to the Welsh? Ah, we love our
archetypes in Wales, says Rhys. The big
drinker, the carouser, the no-good-boyo.
Dylans image tted incredibly well. And
he was irreverent at a time you werent
supposed to be, the 1950s. Its not really
in the Welsh DNA. We havent got many
hellraisers, but Thomas stuck two ngers
up at it all and lived the life he wanted.
Richard Burton was exactly the same.
They lived their lives on their own terms.
In our nations psyche, thats quietly
admired in the chapels.
There was a modest amount of
roistering during the making of The
Edge of Love, which was lmed on
location in West Wales, land of Rhyss
own ancestors. I was determined to
put on a proper Welsh night, so I went
on full twee overdrive and found this
amazing pub in Aberaeron and I got a
Welsh folk band in, says Rhys. What was
so gratifying was how much they loved
it. The girls [Knightley and Miller] loved
Wales, they were like, Oh my God, we
need to move here!
If they had, the local farmers would
have remained utterly unfazed by two
of the worlds most beautiful actresses,
reckons Rhys. They were certainly less
impressed by Rhyss acting than his local
farming connections. One farmer said to
me, I know who you are. Youre Kevin
Evanss cousin, arent you? He runs a
thousand acres up near Aberystwyth,
doesnt he? Beautiful dairy hes got...
Its a typical Welsh characteristic a
refusal to be impressed that never fails
to amuse Rhys, even when hes on the
receiving end which he is, every time
he comes back home and goes to the
pub with his school friends. They feel
almost duty-bound to make sure that if I
ever dream of thinking myself above my
station, I should be put back in my place
or lower, just to make sure.
Matthew Rhys grew up in Cardiff,
where both his parents were
teachers. He went to the same
Welsh-language school as his
best friend Ioan Gruffudd, and
the pair trained together at RADA.
He won acclaim in the hit US TV
series Brothers & Sisters and
currently stars in the spy thriller
The Americans. His stage work
includes The Graduate with
Kathleen Turner, several Royal
Shakespeare Company
productions, and a recent revival
of Look Back In Anger in New York.
For an extended version of this
interview, and to nd out about
Matthew Rhyss favourite places
in Wales, see visitwales.com
i
Above from left
Laugharne Castle, Laugharne
Browns Hotel, Laugharne
Dylan Thomas
4 visitwales.com
Its almost like hazing, as they say in
America. You have to go through the rst
15 minutes in the pub where youre torn
to bits, and then you can get on with
catching up.
Rhys went to his local Welsh-language
comprehensive school in Cardiff, where
he was the year below his best friend,
the actor Ioan Gruffudd. They went to
the same chapel, and competed in the
same school eisteddfod, the performing
arts competition in which almost every
Welsh child especially those in Welsh-
language schools takes part.
Were kicked onto a stage, or into a
pulpit, from a young age, says Rhys. I
didnt always like it as a child, but when
you look back, its amazing. That level of
celebration of culture, combined with a
sense of tradition and history its great,
as long as it keeps evolving. And even
if you hate being on stage, somewhere
in your psyche it will help you. It
encourages condence and teamwork,
which sounds like corporate clich, but
I genuinely believe it.
Rhys followed Gruffudd to the Royal
Academy of Dramatic Art (RADA), an
experience they found both priceless and
shockingly hard. While their friends who
went to university seemed to be living
lives of raucous freedom, RADA was a
gruelling six days work a week, plus long
nights learning lines.
Rhys is now based in Los Angeles,
where hes part of an entire tribe of
Welsh actors that includes Ioan Gruffudd,
Michael Sheen, Andrew Howard and
Catherine Zeta Jones.
I discovered an even greater group of
Welshies there during the Six Nations
[rugby championship], says Rhys.
Theres a pub in Santa Monica called the
Kings Head that shows the games live,
usually at around 5.30am. I remember
walking in and theres a sea of red, and
suddenly theres this ready-made Welsh
community. There are a lot of boys from
Merthyr Tydl working in construction
there, strangely.
Welshness and especially the Welsh
language is still central to who Rhys is.
Its also why, on this precious weekend
off in Cardiff, he doesnt mind pitching in
to help by opening major festivals at a
moments notice, for instance, which is
what he did the day before at the Welsh-
language festival Tafwyl.
Im happy to support when I can,
says Rhys. Welsh is my rst language, its
what I speak to my family and to friends
like Ioan. But whenever I do something
like speaking at a festival, theres always
someone at the back I know, one of my
school friends, who catches my eye and
does this
At this point Rhys mimes a series of
magnicently obscene gestures that,
mercifully, cannot be recreated in print.
Its the Welsh putting me back in my
place. He laughs again. Happens all the
time!
r
In Country Sleep:
where to stay on
the Thomas trail
Browns Hotel, Laugharne
Dylans favourite haunt has been
restored and reborn as a boutique
hotel and oozes glamour.
browns-hotel.co.uk
1 Coastguard Cottage, Rhossili
Dylan and his school friends came
camping here, but you can stay in
this National Trust-run cottage.
nationaltrustcottages.co.uk
Quay West, New Quay
This clifftop holiday caravan park
offers lovely views of the harbour
town that inspired Under Milk Wood.
haven.com
Trehyddion Barns, Carmarthenshire
Dylans summer holidays were
spent on rural farms like this, with
Llansteffans sandy beach and castle
on the doorstep.
trehyddionbarns.com
T
^
y Mawr, near Aberaeron
When lming The Edge of Love the
stars stayed at this gorgeous Georgian
manor in the Aeron valley.
tymawrmansion.co.uk
5 visitwales.com
The Dylan Thomas
Boathouse
The poets lovely waterside home hosts
a variety of events and intimate readings
throughout the Dylan Thomas 100
Festival. Also look out for Dylans writing
shed as it tours the country.
All year, Laugharne and locations
across Wales
dylanthomasboathouse.com
Peter Blake Exhibition:
Llareggub
The venerable pop artist Peter Blake is
passionate about Dylans play for voices
Under Milk Wood, and this show includes
portraits of each of the 60 characters, and
collages depicting the ctional village of
Llareggub.
Until 16th March
National Museum Cardiff
museumwales.ac.uk/en/Cardiff
The Laugharne Weekends
Three weekends in Laugharne celebrate
Dylan Thomass life and work, each
themed to echo Dylans favourite art
forms just the kind of events Dylan
himself would have enjoyed. Therell be
Poetry and Biography, curated by Patti
Smith and Simon Armitage (11th 13th
April), Comedy and Radio, curated by
Robin Ince and Stuart Maconie
(19th 21st September), and Music and
Film, curated by Richard James and Euros
Childs (26th 28th September).
Laugharne
dylanthomas100.org
A Dylan Odyssey
This series of literary tourism events
follows Dylans steps to Wales, Oxford and
New York. They will involve kayaking, pony
trap rides, jazz music, Beat poetry, and the
company of contemporary writers such as
Owen Sheers and Gillian Clarke.
May September, Wales and worldwide
literaturewales.org /a-dylan-odyssey/
Dylan Thomas Exhibition
The National Library of Wales has a
major exhibition from its archive of Dylan
Thomas material, which includes unique
personal items, alongside visiting items
from the United States.
28th June 20th December
Aberystwyth
llgc.org.uk
Lleisiau/Voices
This live, multi-national event celebrates
the history of vocal and oral traditions. Its
presented at Chapter in Cardiff, with live
streaming from Browns Hotel in Laugharne
and the Chelsea Hotel in New York.
20th September
Chapter Arts Centre, Cardiff
chapter.org
Swansea Festival of Music
and the Arts
This annual festival includes the Wales
premiere of A Dylan Thomas Trilogy by
John Corigliano, and the world premiere
of Karl Jenkins Three Images from
Dylan Thomas with the Russian National
Philharmonic Orchestra.
4th 18th October, Swansea
swanseafestival.org
The Dylan Thomas Festival
This annual festival, held over an event-
packed two weeks, is the centrepiece of
the year-long celebrations that make up
Dylan Thomas 100.
27th October 9th November, Swansea
dylanthomas.com
A Childs Christmas in Wales
Michael Bogdanovs adaptation of the
classic tale will be performed by the Wales
Theatre Company at theatres
all over Wales.
November & December, across Wales
thewalestheatrecompany.com
Dylan Thomas is Waless greatest poet and writer. To mark the centenary of Dylans
birth, in a small house in Swansea in 1914, the Dylan Thomas 100 Festival is a year-
long celebration of his life and work. The festivals Royal Patron is the Prince of Wales,
who has joined in the festival spirit by recording a special reading of his favourite
Dylan Thomas poem, Fern Hill. There are hundreds of events, here and around the
world. These are just a few highlights, but do check the website for the latest info:
dylanthomas100.org
Dylan Thomas 100 is the perfect way to
introduce the places and characters in my
grandfathers poetry and prose, and for
people to discover why the quirky villages
and seaside towns inspired him so much. I
hope that the festival will spark a passion
for words in a new generation and leave a
lasting legacy for Wales.
Hannah Ellis, honorary patron
and Dylan Thomass granddaughter
Arts and culture
Dylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas 100
6 visitwales.com
Sometimes even Hollywood stars have to
play best supporting actor to the scenery.
Wales has been the location for hundreds
of flms. Here we pay tribute to our most
scene-stealing performances.
Hollywood
O Whale of a time
Matthew Rhys lmed The Edge of Love
(2008) in several locations around West
Wales, most notably New Quay. This
lovely harbour town was the inspiration
for Dylan Thomass classic Under Milk
Wood, although the 1972 movie version,
starring Richard Burton, was lmed down
the coast at Lower Fishguard, as was the
1955 lm Moby Dick.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
visitpembrokeshire.com
pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk
O Holy water!
In the 2012 movie The Dark Knight Rises,
the Batcave is hidden behind the 88-foot
(27 metre) curtain of thundering water
known as Henrhyd Falls, the highest
of dozens of cascades in the western
Brecon Beacons.
midwalesmyway.com
breconbeacons.org
O The Dai Vinci code
Margam Park is an 850-acre country
park with its own 12th-century abbey
and neo-Gothic mansion. Its also a slice
of sun-dappled Renaissance Tuscany
when theyre lming the hit US drama
Da Vincis Demons.
visitswanseabay.com
O
O
O
O
O
O
O
O
O
7 visitwales.com
Arts and culture
Wales on lm
O Welsh wizardry
Shell Cottage, in which Harry and his
companions shelter in Harry Potter and
the Deathly Hallows, was built on the
edge of Freshwater Wests mile-long
(1.6 km) beach, where Russell Crowe also
came to lm Robin Hood. Key scenes
from the 2012 fairytale Snow White and
the Huntsman, starring Kristen Stewart,
were shot nearby on Marloes Sands ...
which also featured in the 1968 historical
epic The Lion in Winter, starring Peter
OToole and Katharine Hepburn.
visitpembrokeshire.com
pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk
O Dark forces
Our own Nordic-noir-style TV detective
series is so good, we lmed it twice. The
Welsh version, Y Gwyll, was broadcast on
S4C in 2013 while the English Hinterland,
which was shot simultaneously, goes
out on BBC4 in 2014. The series location
remains the same: the hauntingly
beautiful landscape around Aberystwyth.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
O Star quality
Theres a bit in the 2007 fantasy Stardust
when its star Claire Danes treks high
above a magical lake. Thatll be Llyn y
Fan Fach, a beautiful glacial lake on the
western edge of the Brecon Beacons.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
breconbeacons.org
O Moat points
Caerphilly Castle is the second largest
castle in Britain, and in 1995 Hollywood
big cheese Robert Downey Jr was here
to lm the tragi-comic romp Restoration.
Another key location in the lm was
Tretower Court near Crickhowell which,
in 2004, also welcomed Johnny Depp in
The Libertine.
thevalleys.co.uk, midwalesmyway.com
O Twin peaks
So spectacular are the mountains of
Snowdonia, lm-makers often use them
to represent other exotic, far-ung
locations: China in Lara Croft Tomb
Raider: The Cradle of Life (2003) and
The Inn of the Sixth Happiness (1958),
Kazakhstan for the 1999 Bond movie
The World Is Not Enough, and a rather
convincing Khyber Pass in the 1968
comedy Carry On Up The Khyber.
visitsnowdonia.info
eryri-npa.gov.uk
to Holyhead
Main
Freshwater West, Pembrokeshire, the setting for
Shell Cottage in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows
Licensed By: Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All Rights Reserved
visitwales.com 8
Island paradise
The thing about islands is
that you cant look at one
without wondering, even
for a eeting moment,
what it would feel like to be
there, standing on its cliffs
among the wheeling clouds
of seabirds, looking back at
where you are now.
Main
Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Inset left to right
Atlantic pufn
Bluebells on Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire
Ramsey Island, Pembrokeshire
9 visitwales.com
A
s you meander the 870 mile
(1,400 km) Wales Coast Path, youll
count around 50 Welsh islands. You
can walk to some of them at low tide.
Others shimmer tantalisingly on the far
horizon. Some are near-impossible to
reach, unless you happen to be an expert
cliff-climber or, ideally, a pufn. But you
can visit many of the best ones, and even
stay on a few.
Skomer is a cracking example, part of a
cluster of little islands off Pembrokeshire
that support some of the worlds most
Coast & country
Islands
important bird colonies. Its a fabulous
day-trip across the turquoise waters of
Jack Sound, where even the seabed is a
protected nature reserve. In summer the
island throngs with guillemots, razorbills
and pufns, while fulmars and kittiwakes
ll the air like urries of snowakes. Grey
seals bask on the rocks below clifftops
that offer one of the most spectacular
displays of wild owers in Britain.
You can land on nearby Ramsey Island
too its a beautifully untouched RSPB
nature reserve or take a rib ride around
its reefs and rapids. Youll denitely see
seals, probably dolphins and porpoises,
and possibly even whales and sharks.
Back on Skomer, if you stay the night
youll witness another of natures most
incredible sights: tens of thousands of
nocturnal Manx shearwaters ghosting
back to their burrows.
Theres another major colony of
these incredible little birds on Bardsey
Island, which lies off the tip of the Ll
^
yn
Peninsula. There are eight self-catering
cottages on this Island of 20,000 Saints,
which has long been a spiritual refuge.
visitwales.com 10
Talking of which, theres still an
active monastery of Benedictine
monks on Caldey Island, another
hugely popular day-trip from nearby
Tenby. You can also experience
blissful island isolation just ve
miles (8 km) from Cardiff city
centre on Flat Holm, another major
seabird sanctuary.
Its easy to get besotted with
Welsh islands. The TV scriptwriter
Carla Lane bought a tiny one of
her own, St Tudwals East, off the
southern tip of the Ll
^
yn Peninsula,
and turned it into a wildlife
sanctuary. Then the adventurer
Bear Grylls bought its neighbour,
St Tudwals West, and talk about
getting away from it all spends
family holidays on its few clifftop
acres.
You dont have to splash out on
a whole island, though. You can
borrow one of ours. Like we say,
there are plenty to go round.
walescoastpath.gov.uk
welshwildlife.org /skomer-skokholm/
atholmisland.com
bardsey.org
caldey-island.co.uk
rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/r/
ramseyisland/
i
Top from left
Bardsey Island, Ll ^ yn Peninsula
Llanddwyn Island, Isle of Anglesey
r
Water beds
Mother love
Caerfai Farm, St Davids
Cottages, yurts, caravan and camp site,
cheesemaking and all on a stunning clifftop
location, just around the headland from
Ramsey Island.
caerfaifarm.co.uk
Cenarth Falls Holiday Park, Cenarth
This ve-star holiday park has caravans and
cottages, plus great facilities for tourers and
campers, just a few minutes walk from the
famous falls on the River Tei.
cenarth-holipark.co.uk
Fog Horn Cottage, Flat Holm
Dont forget your toothbrush its a long swim
back to the mainland from this stylish three-bed
self-catering cottage.
atholmisland.com
Plas Rhianfa, Isle of Anglesey
This architectural gem has ve-star luxury
overlooking the Menai Strait on Waless
biggest island.
chateaurhianfa.com
T
^
y Newydd Country Hotel, Hirwaun
This comfortable hotel is right on the threshold
of Waterfall Country, and if you like whisky
with your water, Penderyn, Waless only distillery,
is nearby.
tynewyddcountryhotel.co.uk
The biggest Welsh island by far is Anglesey, which was nally joined
to the mainland by Thomas Telfords magnicent suspension bridge
in 1826. The island was a stronghold of druids during the Roman
invasion, and a vital source of food during later wars leading to
its nickname of Mn Mam Cymru the Mother of Wales.
Nowadays, its a favourite holiday destination, with attractions
that include Plas Newydd stately home, a sea zoo, copper mines,
the most perfect medieval castle at Beaumaris, and a village called
deep breath
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch.
But its the 125 mile (201 km) coastline that is the islands biggest
draw, packed with fabulous beaches, nature reserves, and the most
romantic spot in Wales, Llanddwyn Island, where theres an old
lighthouse and a ruined chapel dedicated to the Welsh patron saint
of love, St Dwynwen. No wonder Prince William and Kate made their
rst home here.
visitanglesey.co.uk
11 visitwales.com
Fall
W
hat is it about
waterfalls? Theres
something surreally magical
about a torrent of water
plunging off a cliff and
into a crystal pool. At
the western edge of the
Brecon Beacons, in a bit of
Wales known as Waterfall
Country, three rivers the
Mellte, Hepste and Nedd
Fechan have carved their
way through soft rocks to
create steep wooded gorges
full of caves and cascades.
Its popular with white-
water kayakers and, in
summer, wetsuit-clad
canyoning groups, but
its also a brilliant place
to experience the thrill of
walking behind a curtain of
thundering water notably
at Sgwd yr Eira, the famous
waterfall of snow.
Although the greatest
concentration of falls is
here, the highest are up
in the high mountains:
the Devils Appendix in
Snowdonia and Pistyll y Llyn
in the Cambrian range. And
the most spectacular? Well,
thats a matter of opinion,
but the 239 feet (73 metre)
high Pistyll Rhaeadr, in the
Berwyn Mountains, has the
advantage of a car park two
minutes walk from the base.
And to be fair, it is utterly
spellbinding.
breconbeacons.org
midwalesmyway.com
pistyllrhaeadr.co.uk
visitsnowdonia.info
discoverceredigion.co.uk
Coast & country
Waterfalls
at your feet
Bet you didnt bargain for a waterfall of
snow and the Devils Appendix to be
among the sights on your visit to Wales.
Sgwd yr Eira, Brecon Beacons National Park
visitwales.com 12
beach
perfect
The
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13 visitwales.com
The Wales Coast Path is the longest continuous coastal path
in the world. Along its 870 mile (1,400 km) length there are
hundreds of harbours, coves, inlets and, of course, beaches.
Lots of them. And one of them will be your favourite. So
whichll it be? Here are ten to get you started.
O Abersoch, Snowdonia
Theres always a lively family feel to
Abersoch, one of our best watersports
centres. Its at its most vibrant during
the August Regatta which, apart
from all the serious sailing stuff,
features raft-racing, crab-catching
and sandcastle-building contests.
visitsnowdonia.info
O Barafundle, Pembrokeshire
Its impossible to pick our prettiest
beach, but this Pembrokeshire gem,
backed by dunes and pine trees, always
crops up. Theres something almost
Caribbean about Barafundle, which
is all the better for being a half-mile
(0.8 km) walk from the nearest car park.
visitpembrokeshire.com
O Barmouth, Snowdonia
Huge and picturesque, Barmouth
beach is always popular but never
overcrowded. Barmouth itself is a proper
British seaside resort, complete with
trampolines, ice creams, arcade games,
donkey rides and a vintage railway.
visitsnowdonia.info
O Benllech, Isle of Anglesey
This small holiday town is set on
a crescent-shaped bay, with ne
sand that stretches for miles. Its
also blissfully easy to get to, even
for pushchairs and wheelchairs.
visitanglesey.co.uk
O Llangrannog, Ceredigion
Theres nothing ashy about the
village its just a cluster of houses
wedged between two headlands,
with waves lapping at their toes. The
coastal footpath leads you through
clouds of wild owers that are alive
with butteries in summer.
discoverceredigion.co.uk
O Cefn Sidan, Carmarthenshire
This whopping eight-mile (12 km) beach
has plenty of room for everyone, and
young nature detectives can climb
the dunes to track down grasshoppers
and other mini beasts. Its all part
of Pembrey Country Park, which has
play areas and an equestrian centre,
dry ski slope and toboggan run.
discovercarmarthenshire.com
O Porthdinllaen, Snowdonia
Only locals are allowed to drive to this
perfect little harbour hamlet. But never
mind its a lovely short walk along the
beach, or through Nefyns famously
beautiful golf course, to reach it. Its an
idyllic cove and natural harbour, with
the added bonus of a cracking pub, the
T^ y Coch Inn, which has just been voted
one of the worlds best beach bars.
visitsnowdonia.info
O Rhossili, Gower Peninsula
Well, we had to mention our cover star,
didnt we? Rhossilis three-mile (4.8 km)
golden sands come with a genuine
shipwreck, and if you time the tides
right, theres a fabulous walk out to the
promontory known as Worms Head.
visitswanseabay.com
O Southerndown,
Vale of Glamorgan
The Glamorgan Heritage Coasts multi-
layered cliffs occasionally drop down into
sandy bays. This is a favourite with surfers
and families, and theres a great clifftop
walk to the ruins of Dunraven Castle.
visitthevale.com
G Tenby, Pembrokeshire
Were cheating a bit here, since
theres not one fantastic beach in
Tenby, but three. The Rough Guide
to Wales describes this pretty little
town as everything a seaside resort
should be and it was recently voted
one of the UKs top ve beach
destinations by Tripadvisor.
visitpembrokeshire.com
O
O O
Coast & country
Beaches
walescoastpath.gov.uk
visitwales.com 14
Wild
Main
Ynys-hir RSPB Reserve, near Machynlleth
Opposite clockwise from top left
Dolphin-watching off the Ceredigion Coast
Wales Coast Path, near Llangrannog
Red kite
T
here are two things you need to understand about the
maverick TV presenter Chris Packham. Firstly, hes a proper
hardcore naturalist, with a phenomenal passion for a subject
that he knows inside-out. Secondly, he was an original 1970s
punk, with the hair and anti-authority attitude to match.
The 52-year-old from Southampton is now the mainstay
of TV wildlife programmes, but the teenage punk is never far
beneath the surface. Hes famous for nipping song titles of
his favourite bands into his drily witty narration: The Smiths,
The Clash, and the Manic Street Preachers have all made
unexpected cameos.
Packham even managed to slip 51 David Bowie song titles
into the 2012 series of BBC Springwatch, just for the ridiculous
joy of it.
The series was based at the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir, where
for three years the BBC carried out its biggest and most
complex outside broadcast, with a crew of 100 descending
on the impossibly pretty Dy Estuary in remotest Mid Wales.
The spiky charm of Chris Packham has
made him one of Britains best-loved
naturalists. And he thinks that what Wales
really needs is well, some beavers.
at heart
15 visitwales.com
How did you enjoy your time at Ynys-hir?
It was fantastic, a real treat. The RSPB reserve itself
is beautiful to look at, and its got a range of habitats
fresh water, the coastal water, the estuary, the oak
woodland, the bog all in a relatively compact site.
And this brings with it a great diversity of species,
which really paid off, because we had some great
stories and contributors, both animals and human.
The RSPB and the local people were extraordinarily
hospitable, too, so we very much enjoyed our time
there.
So it wasnt your rst time down these parts?
Heavens no! Ive travelled in Wales a tremendous
amount. The rst time was when I was 15 years
old, in the mid-1970s, when I caught the National
Express bus and went to Cwmystwyth to spend a
couple of weeks in the spring, to see what remained
of the red kites. The same summer I went back to
Llangrannog to warden some peregrine falcons,
which were very endangered at the time.
Both species have bounced back since then,
thankfully.
Red kites are incredibly common in Mid Wales now.
Can you overdo the re-introduction thing?
No. But you have to expect change. Weve lived
through a time when kites were very rare, and
that had an impact on all the other creatures
around them. When you put an animal back into
an environment, everything has to rebalance. Kites
are largely scavengers, though, and no science has
so far proved that their re-introduction has had a
negative impact on other birds. Ultimately whats
right is to have as many species that can live in an
area, living in it. Thats why re-introduction is overall
a good idea because its trying to rebuild the proper
biodiversity of that region.
What about beavers? In parts of Wales theres a
campaign to bring them back
Yes! This ought to have happened years ago! Beavers
will be great news for Wales on many counts. Firstly,
they will have a profoundly positive impact on
biodiversity, making it much better for sh, insects,
reptiles and birds of many species. Secondly, theyll
be a great draw for tourism, because people like
BBCs Springwatch chose Ynys-hir
as its base for very good reason:
its one of the best places in Wales
to see birds, bugs and butteries
in a gorgeous setting of oak
woodland with wet grassland and
saltmarshes. rspb.org.uk
i
RSPB Ynys-hir
at heart
Coast & country
Wildlife
visitwales.com 16
beavers and will come and see them.
And further, if they do present a problem
to any of our human interests, which
is unlikely, we have learned over many
years how to manage them. So I really
hope this progresses quickly and we get
these animals back.
Talking of tourism, what can we do as
tourists to reduce our impact on the
environment?
If you go to Wales, spend money in
Wales! Spend money in the local B&Bs,
hotels, pubs and restaurants. Try and
put as much money back into the local
community as possible. So dont eat in
a restaurant where theyre selling food
from the Caribbean, go somewhere
where youre eating Welsh lamb and
Welsh vegetables. Thats the responsible
thing to do. Make it fruitful for the
people who actually live and work there.
Sheep farming is not an easy business, so
if you go to a pub where theyre selling
genuinely locally-sourced food, then
that pays dividends for that landscape.
And its the landscape which provides
the fundamental building blocks of
everything that lives on it and in it.
Some environmentalists think weve got
far too many sheep, dont they?
Yes, and theyre right, but its not specic
to Wales. The whole of the UK is a
man-modied landscape. The uplands
were cleared of trees a long, long time
ago. Theyve been drained and the
grassland has been improved for the
benet of sheep. Sheep do overgraze,
which prevents the natural regeneration
of trees. So yes, sheep have an impact.
Equally, for a long time theyve been a
very important part of farming in Wales,
and they play a role, too. Its about trying
to balance the benets and needs of
farming, and the benets of putting the
land back as it was.
So youd like to see tracts of Wales
restored to what it once was: Atlantic
rainforest?
Of course, and tracts is the right word.
Not all of it. Im quite happy to support
sheep farmers, too. Obviously Id like
them to modify the way they do some
things, and Im happy to pay for them to
do that. But tracts of Atlantic rainforest
running in from the Welsh coast would
be tremendous. Places like Ynys-hir have
tiny fragments, and it would be nice to
see them a lot more extensive.
What about our other habitats? Should
we treasure our bogs as much as our
mountains?
Everyone loves mountains, and they do
make a more spectacular postcard than
the average bog, but to the average
naturalist theres a lot going on in the less
attractive landscapes. I remember going
out on Tregaron Bog for the rst time
in the 1970s and being really excited by
that great, open, muddy wetland covered
in lichens and teeming with birds. It
was fantastic, and equally worthy of
protection.
Do you, as a naturalist, try and harness
the power of being on the telly?
I dont consider myself a celebrity, Im
just a bloke who talks about wildlife on
TV. But theres a very strong vocational
element in everything I do. I want some
of my own enthusiasm and passion for
the subject to rub off, because I want
as many people as possible to look after
our landscape. And ultimately thats why
I get up in the morning and do things
like Springwatch. Im trying to say to that
audience, look, this is brilliant, its in your
back yard, have some of it for yourself.
And when youve learnt to love it, look
after it. Thats my mantra.
Chris Packhams Wales
Wales is a very rich and compact area,
so it has a tremendous amount to
offer in terms of natural history (Im
also keen on history, by the way, so
Ive been to all the castles, too).
My rst trips to Wales were on the
bus as a teenager, but as soon as
I could drive myself, I was away. I
remember with great fondness my
rst trip to Skomer Island off the
Pembrokeshire coast, which was
just magical. Nearby are Bosherston
Lily Ponds which, in summer, is one
of the most beautiful places in the
UK, without a shadow of a doubt.
One year I spent a summer looking
at all the species of orchid I could
nd, and I went to the Great Orme
near Llandudno to look at dark red
helleborine, which are very rare.
Newborough Warren on Anglesey
is one of my favourite places in the
UK. Sand dune systems are few
and far between these days, and
Newborough is a beautiful place full
of fantastic plants and birds.
Theres so much more to explore,
though. Id love to have a couple of
months off with my friend [fellow
naturalist] Iolo Williams as my guide,
so he could take me to all the places
I havent been.
visitpembrokeshire.com
visitllandudno.org.uk
visitanglesey.co.uk
i
Clockwise from top left
Dy Estuary, near Machynlleth
Newborough Warren, Anglesey
Presenter, Chris Packham
Dolphin, Ceredigion coast
Otter
Bluebell woodland near Aberystwyth
Tintern Forest, Wye Valley
17 visitwales.com
Ospreys
Ospreys nest from April to late summer on the
Cors-dy reserve near Machynlleth. Other birds
of prey regularly seen include red kite, honey
buzzard and marsh and hen harriers. Theres
also a herd of water buffalo that help to
manage the wetlands. dyospreyproject.com
Dolphins
Although dolphins can be regularly seen from
the shore, the Cardigan Bay Marine Wildlife
Centre organises boat trips from April onwards.
cbmwc.org
Otters
Visitors often report seeing otters at the lovely
Gilfach Farm reserve near Rhayader. The best
time to visit is October to December when
otters come to the waterfalls to chase the
leaping salmon. rwtwales.org
Fields of orchids
Situated above the beautiful Wye Valley, the
Pentywn Farm reserve provides commanding
views. Early summer sees thousands of green-
winged orchids in spectacular wildower
meadows. gwentwildlife.org
Red kites
Once on the edge of extinction, there are now
an estimated 1,000 breeding pairs of red kites
in Wales. Feeding stations where visitors can
experience these magnicent birds close up
include Gigrin Farm and the Red Kite Feeding
Centre in the west of the Brecon Beacons
National Park. gigrin.co.uk, redkiteswales.com
Pufns
There are an estimated 16,000 pufns and
300,000 Manx shearwaters on the world-
renowned Skomer and Skokholm islands, which
are also home to large numbers of grey seals.
Boats run daily from March to December.
welshwildlife.org
Seabirds that have migrated
50,000 miles
With well over 1,000 nesting pairs of sandwich
terns, Cemlyn on Anglesey is an internationally
important site for seabirds. The arctic tern,
which also nests here, migrates up to 50,000
miles (80,467 km) every year between the
Arctic and Antarctic.
northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk
A festival of butteries
Over 30 species of buttery can be found in
the dramatic former quarry of Llanymynech,
smack bang on the border between Wales
and England. Fortunately the local wildife
trust have produced a guide, so you can tell
your Grizzled Skipper from your White Letter
Hairstreak.
shropshirewildlifetrust.org.uk
Magical bluebell woods
Carpets of bluebells cover the ancient
woodlands in many parts of Wales, but few
reach the dazzling heights of Coed y Felin, just
outside Mold in Flintshire. Down south try the
Coed Dyrysiog reserve just outside Brecon.
northwaleswildlifetrust.org.uk,
brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk
Autumn leaf splendour
For autumnal blazes of colour, the valleys
of South East Wales rival the forests of
New England. The Silent Valley reserve near
Ebbw Vale is a perfect example, while the
Pwll-y-Wrach reserve near Talgarth has
spectacular autumn colours in ancient
woodland running down to plunging
waterfalls along the River Enig.
gwentwildlife.org, brecknockwildlifetrust.org.uk
Coast & country
Days out
Soaring red kites, frolicking dolphins and leaping salmon: Wales has
just the kind of wildlife that grabs the imagination. And its all easy
to spot, says Phil Hurst of Wildlife Trusts Wales. wtwales.org
Ten wild days out in Wales
Everythings
O O O
visitwales.com 18
There are far too many lovely
gardens and environmental
projects to squeeze into this
postage stamp of magazine
space. But here are some
selected highlights.
O Dyffryn Gardens,
Vale of Glamorgan
Imagine a 55-acre house made of plants
and owers. Landscape artist Thomas
Mawson created the gardens at Dyffryn
as a collection of rooms in the shadow of
a grand Victorian mansion house made
of more traditional building material.
nationaltrust.org.uk/dyffryn-gardens
O National Botanic Garden
of Wales, Carmarthenshire
As if building the biggest, striking single
span glasshouse in the world wasnt
enough, the old grounds of 17th-
century Middleton Hall is a great place
to discover ora and fauna from all over
the world. Behind the scenes there are
a whole host of environmental projects
going on too.
gardenofwales.org.uk
O Aberglasney House and Gardens,
Carmarthenshire
The origins of this magnicent Queen
Anne style house date back to medieval
times. A major restoration project
includes an Elizabethan Cloister Garden,
Pool Garden, Lower and Upper Walled
Gardens and Ninfarium an exotic
glass-roofed atrium with orchids, palms
and magnolias inspired by the gardens
of Ninfa, south of Rome.
aberglasney.org
O Llanerchaeron, Ceredigion
Built by John Nash (architect of
Buckingham Palace), the walled
kitchen garden of this minor gentry
estate functions as it did 200 years
ago providing abundant organic fruit,
vegetables and herbs, which you can
buy in the shop at the house.
nationaltrust.org.uk/llanerchaeron
O Brondanw, Snowdonia
Sir Clough Williams-Ellis is renowned for
creating the remarkable village of nearby
Portmeirion, which features wonderful
exotic woodland well worth visiting.
The gardens of Brondanw are less well-
known, but were another of Cloughs
lifetime projects that create a unique
atmosphere with creative use of the
natural landscape.
brondanw.org
O Plas Tan y Bwlch, Snowdonia
Its less catchy name is The Snowdonia
National Park Environmental Studies
Centre. This splendid country house,
which was lit by electricity from its own
hydro-electric source as far back as the
1890s, benets from striking Victorian
gardens featuring sloping lawns, large
conifers and bursts of colour from
rhododendron and azalea. There are
semi-wild woodland areas featuring
native ora and fauna intermingled
with exotic imports from further aeld.
eryri-npa.gov.uk/study-centre/gardens
O Veddw House, Monmouthshire
Described as a modern romantic garden,
Veddw is the imaginative brainchild of
writer Anne Wareham and photographer
Charles Hawes. It has won acclaim (Most
Original Garden 2012 in Readers Digest
magazine) and has courted controversy.
It almost demands a visit so you can
make your own mind up about its
innovative, environmentally-sympathetic
approach.
veddw.com
Gone Green
O O O
O
O
O
G
19 visitwales.com
Coast & country
Gardens
O Centre for Alternative Technology, Powys
Imagine a one-stop resource of information
and demonstration regarding sustainable living.
Now stop imagining, because CAT covers
the lot, including several gardens offering
inspirational ideas on how you can maintain
your own ourishing patch of greenery.
cat.org.uk
O Bodnant Garden, Conwy
Like a giant horticultural stamp collection, a
diverse range of seeds and cuttings from all
over the world were collected over a century
ago to create the gardens of Bodnant. There
are formal terraces with views over the Conwy
Valley, the river Hiraethlyn runs through the
Dell, while the changing seasons offer dramatic
varieties of colour in the shrub borders.
nationaltrust.org.uk/bodnant-garden
G Erddig Hall, Wrexham
An impressive country house set in over a thousand
acres of land, the huge 18th-century walled garden
features rare fruit trees, the symmetry of a Victorian
parterre and one of the longest herbaceous
borders in Britain. Visitors can also book guided
environmental learning sessions.
nationaltrust.org.uk/erddig/
Swansea
visitwales.com 20
A tale of
two cities
Our two biggest cities are going places. Swansea and Cardiff now have football teams in
the Premiership for the rst time in history, so we asked international wheelchair athlete
and television presenter Liam Holt to pay a visit and see how both cities line up.
Swansea
I
ts a chicken-and-egg situation. I cant
work out if the style of football Swansea
City play condent, stylish, laid-back
comes from the city itself, or if it works
the other way: if some of that footballing
panache is rubbing off on the city.
Either way, theres a denite buzz
about the place, which we feel the
moment we set foot outside the
Swansea Marriott, a waterfront hotel
which is perfectly placed for exploring
the citys main attractions.
We start with a history lesson at the
National Waterfront Museum, which tells
the story of industry and innovation in
Wales, now and over the last 300 years.
Its a very interactive place, with a perfect
combination of original artifacts and
touch-screen computer displays, which
allow people to explore deeper into
the exhibits. Its particularly great for
kids, as they can work in a technological
environment that appeals to them.
After all that science, were in the
mood for some art, so we head to the
nearby Mission Gallery, which crams a
huge amount of creative power into a
relatively small space.
The same could be said of Pierre
Donahue, a local singer-songwriter who
plays percussion for The Dukes Box,
an extraordinary wait for it human
jukebox. Basically theyve taken a tiny
vintage caravan, sawn off the front and
replaced it with a Perspex sheet and
jukebox-style buttons. People push a
pound into the slot, choose their song,
and the live band play it!
The Dukes Box has played festivals all
over Europe, and now Pierre has founded
his own left-eld event in Swansea, an
alternative Dylan Thomas celebration
called the Do Not Go Gentle festival.
Its a celebration of the legendary Welsh
poet in his home suburb of the Uplands,
Swansea, explains Pierre. We aim to be
a festival Dylan might have liked, and yes
that involves beer, but it also involves
cosy and atmospheric venues, great acts
and the people of Swansea who rst
inspired him to write all those years ago.
Right, thats culture and science ticked,
so now Im off to get physical. Swansea
is mad about sport, whether its regional
rugby and football at the Liberty Stadium,
county cricket at St Helens, or surng
on the Gower Peninsula. If youre an
outdoors person and into watersport
then you have to visit 360, a new
multisport activity centre that provides
beach and watersports all year round, no
matter the weather, just along the beach
from the city centre.
Its not just a sports centre, either
theres a good caf, which adds a
social aspect and opens the beach up
to everyone from dog walkers to kite
yers. Its also worth mentioning the
accessibility, too: the beach is normally
the natural enemy of the wheelchair
but 360 conquers this with multiple
accessible toilets and changing rooms,
and its the rst beachfront venue in
Wales to have a Changing Places facility
hoists, changing tables, etc for those
who need extra support.
Sitting at a beach caf, right next to
the sand, watching people kayaking and
playing beach volleyball its not quite
how I imagined Swansea to be. But I like
it, a lot.
marriott.co.uk
museumwales.ac.uk/en/swansea
missiongallery.co.uk
thedukesbox.com
donotgogentlefestival.com
360swansea.co.uk
Clockwise from top left
360 Beach and Watersports
Dylan Thomass Captain Cat, Swansea marina
Mission Gallery
National Waterfront Museum
Mission Gallery
21 visitwales.com
Cities & towns
A tale of two cities
Perhaps more than any
other Welsh city, Swansea
cares about its food (it
boasts the biggest and
best covered market in
Wales) and this is reected
in lots of deliciously
independent-minded
places to eat.
Trufe Restaurant
(trufe-swansea.co.uk)
feels a bit like going to a
house party, thanks to its
bring your own booze
policy and utter lack of airs
and graces. The staff and
customers enjoy a bit of
banter (I was made fun of
for not ordering a more
manly starter!), its great
value and the desserts
were awesome.
I liked Mosaic
(mosaicswansea.com)
even more: a quirky
modern restaurant which
in terms of independent
businesses just gets it,
from the decor to the
menu (the names alone
are hilarious!). During the
day its a laid-back lounge,
but in the evening they
transform the place into
a lively tapas restaurant,
with projections on the
walls and live music on a
raised stage above the bar.
The food at the Grape
& Olive (swansea.
grapeandolive.co.uk) isnt
as innovative, but given
its location the top oor
of Waless tallest building
its worth a visit just for
the amazing views.
Finally, you cant visit
Swansea without a trip
to local institution.
Joes Ice Cream Parlour
(joes-icecream.com)
founded in 1922 by the
son of Italian immigrants.
Joe Cascarini introduced
the familys secret ice-
cream recipe to the city
and it has never left.
Quite simply its the most
amazing ice cream I have
EVER had!
Eating out in Swansea
Cardiff
visitwales.com 22
Clockwise from left
Cardiff Castle
Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff Bay
Millennium Stadium
Royal Arcade
Cardiff
I
thought I knew Cardiff pretty well.
I moved here nine years ago, and I
denitely consider it to be my home. In
true fashion though, when a city becomes
your home you kind of take it for granted.
You dont really explore what it has to
offer its just there! So it was fascinating
to spend a weekend in Cardiff as a tourist
again and re-discover just how great it is.
All the icons are correct and present:
the castle, the Millennium Stadium
which dominates the central skyline, the
neoclassical Civic Centre, the shiny new
shopping malls.
Since Im being a tourist, I start at the
top of most visitors list: Cardiff Castle.
With over 2,000 years of history, its
an incredible mash-up of all the major
historical events that have shaped
Cardiff, from Roman times, through
Norman conquest, to the fabulous wealth
that coal brought here.
The 3rd Marquess of Bute was the
biggest inuence on how the castle looks
today. Bute hired the amboyant (and
expensive) designer William Burges to
work with him in the design of his living
quarters, which reect their fascination
with all things medieval. With Burgess
vision and Butes money, there were no
limits to their sumptuous designs.
Its the little details that you remember,
though: I particularly liked the little
statues of monkeys reading books, which
were apparently Butes way of mocking
Darwins theory of evolution.
Cardiff itself continues to evolve. The
weekends highlight for me was exploring
the independent businesses that are
ourishing in the old arcades which
intertwined with the more commercial
shops. The eclectic shops within each
arcade have a real charm about them,
from local skate shop City Surf to Spillers
Records (opened in 1894 the oldest
record shop in the world). I even took the
opportunity to do some research for my
wedding in Hubbards Cupboard in Castle
Arcade, which was a bit of a dangerous
move with my ance with me!
And Cardiff isnt just about the city
centre any more: the individual boroughs
are emerging strongly and making names
for themselves places like Cathays,
Roath, Canton and Pontcanna offer
their own high streets by day and an
alternative night out for people looking
for something a bit different.
A good example of this new generation
of pioneers is Simon Thomas, who owns
a record shop called Catapult in the Duke
Street Arcade. But its more than that. Its
also a record label, and a clothing brand.
His latest business is a pop-up restaurant
called Chucks, which shone brightly last
summer in an old disused dairy.
Simon, like many of the bright young
independents in Cardiff, is on a mission:
to inspire. Im not in it for the money,
he laughs. I do it because I want to. I
started Chucks simply because it was the
kind of place I wanted to eat. But at the
same time a business like mine gives the
chance to develop the careers of other
Cardiff locals, whether theyre musicians
on the label or chefs in the kitchen.
Im not against commercial
businesses, says Simon. I just want
people to have the choice of where
they eat and shop a quality, credible
alternative to the mainstream.
Back at the hotel, Im thoroughly
enjoying my tourist trip to my home
town. Were staying at the Park Plaza,
a relaxed hotel right in the city centre,
with its own spa and health club. After a
couple of hours in the steam room and
the unique stainless steel pool, I feel like
a new man. At least, after the deep tissue
massage, I feel like Ive got a new pair of
shoulders. More than that, Ive seen my
adopted home city in a whole new light.
And it feels really, really good.
millenniumstadium.com
cardiffcastle.com
citysurfshops.co.uk
spillersrecords.co.uk
hubbardscupboardonline.co.uk
catapult.co.uk
parkplazacardiff.com
Cardiff
visitwales.com 23
I
m pretty easy going when it comes to things like this. I
always approach accessibility with a where theres a will
theres a way attitude.
Over two weekends spent in Swansea and Cardiff I was
treated just as any visitor would be and thats how I like
it. I didnt encounter any obstacles in terms of wheelchair
access. Both hotels had rooms with plenty of wheeling
space and the bathrooms had all the necessary equipment.
Staff at all the restaurants were really accommodating
by allocating a table that was easy to get to and making
sure a chair was removed to enable me to roll straight in!
I was particularly impressed with Cardiff Castle. Its
a Grade I listed building with its origins dating back to
Roman times. You dont really expect to be able to access
all areas of the castle, but if theres a heritage building
demonstrating just what can be achieved with a sincere
commitment to accessibility, then Cardiff Castle is it. There
were lifts installed to allow wheelchair access not only
to the castle tunnels but also to the main rooms of the
mansion!
360 Beach & Watersports in Swansea offers genuinely
innovative levels of disabled access. Suddenly youve
got none of the usual worries: How am I going to get
changed? or How am I going to go to the toilet? Using a
beach wheelchair eliminates further issues by enabling easy
access across the sand and into the sea. Its great to see a
visitor attraction offering such levels of inclusivity.
If youre looking to plan a visit to Wales and you need
sound advice regarding accessibility matters:
visitwales.com/explore/accessible-wales
Access all areas
Think that a country known for its
coastline and castles might be off
limits for wheelchair users?
Cities & towns
Access all areas
Cardiff has all the big-name chains like Jamies and
Carluccios, as well as a great selection of home-grown
independents. Milgi Lounge (milgilounge.com) is a
perfect example: a vegetarian restaurant on City Road,
a mile or so out of town. It has a real community feel,
with locally sourced food and a clientele of all different
ages and styles, so no one seems out of place. Their
cocktails are amazing, especially the Milgi Mojito, made
with elderower and lychee. Its not just a restaurant,
either: they hold live music and storytelling evenings
in the yurt in the rear garden, and art exhibitions and
markets in the lane and garages behind.
Mint & Mustard (mintandmustard.com) has a fantastic
reputation locally for its South Indian cuisine, and now
Ive been there I can see why! You dont just go there to
eat; you go there for the complete dining experience.
La Cuina (lacuina.co.uk) is a family-run Catalan place
thats a deli by day and a restaurant by night. Its
relatively new but already a hotspot with local foodies (it
was packed when we visited). Then theres Torre Coffee,
another family business run by an Italian-Romanian
husband and wife team. The cakes are amazing, and
theyre especially welcoming for families and its right
opposite Cardiff Castle.