Professional Documents
Culture Documents
MANUFACTURING WORKFLOW
Consumption planning to order fabric
Fabric order placement
Receipt of fabric
Fabric inspection
(Check physical appearance and properties)
Marker Planning
(For bulk production)
Sampling
Spreading & Cutting
Presewing operations
(Fusing, embroidery, marking- if required in style)
Bundling
Feeding in lines
(As per production plan)
Finishing
Packing
Warehousing
Packing and dispatch
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GARMENT ENGINEERING
It starts in design development stage because it directly affects the
costing of the garments .
People involved: Designers, sample room manager, industrial
engineering department and production management should all report
from cutting to finishing.
Key areas for analysis:
Seam types Various seam types should be analyzed and
considered to simplify/reduce the work.
Stitch types- Explore various options in terms of seam types. For
example replace lock stitches by chain stitch in case of
Multineedle seams.
Machine types- Optimum use of technology to maximize, look in
to machine type, bed shapes and automation thats possible.
Attachments Attachment help in simplifying and reducing the
work content and to increase line balancing efficiency.
Special work aids- Special work aids can be used to
simplify/reduce the work content.
Fabric consumption- Fabric being 70% of the garment cost is
vitally important to monitor and if the engineering is done
properly we can certainly expect to save fabric or reduce
consumptions.
Cutting- how should it be done- we do not have Tailors now, we
have operators instead and they should be working with clippers
in their hands
Finishing- Finishing is the last link of the value chain which is
essential for p erformance point of view.
CAD DEPARTMENT
Receiving tech pack:
Tech pack is received from Head office that contains all the
information regarding the style illustration, size, trims, colors, stitch and seam class, fit,
sampling details, and packing and finishing details.
Make basic pattern: Basic pattern is made manually by pattern master in one base
size.
Digitizing: This base size is then digitized on the Gerber digitizer board.
Grading: After digitizing, its transferred to the computer on Gerber pattern design studio.
Patterns initially are made in only one size. We need to proportionally increase or decrease the
size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style details. Getting correct
fit and drape of a garment but also maintain the measurements as graded specs is essential.
Using the CAD system, the pattern is resized according to a predetermined table of sizing
increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out the pattern in each
size.
First fabric has to be relaxed so that there is no tension or strain during rolling or
unrolling while layering or cutting. This will ensure that there is minimum shrinkage in
garments.
So unwashed garments are made with additional shrinkage tolerance included so that
they gain their original measurements after washing.
Woven fabric garments shrink about 2-3%. This shrinkage incorporated in patterns could
be lengthwise or width wise depending on type of fabric.
Shrinkage adjusting
Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When
shrinkage is applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with
shrinkage adjustments.
The picture on the left shows how a
garment panel looks like after it has been
scanned and graded.
Gerber plotter printing: The patterns are then printed on the Gerber plotter. They
are then pasted to thick aortic sheets and converted into full fledged patterns.
OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Efficiency: Marker plans indicate efficiency of the cutting process i.e. the efficiency of
fabric consumption.
Lay plan: determines the no. of lays required to cut the specified quantity in the
predetermined size ratio.
Precision in checks in stripes
FABRIC STORE
This is the most important department of the unit, where in the quality and quantity of fabric is
inspected as soon as it is received in the store, along with storing and maintaining stock levels
and ensuring to stock up in proper clean way.
When the fabric is in-house, it should be capable of being supplied to the cutting department.
Inspection is done prior the cutting room issue so as to remove the defective fabrics.
D/O
Documents verified
Bales counting
Fabric unloaded
Bales opened
Fabric stored
FCR prepared
Penalty points
1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points
Penalty points
1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points
Penalty points
1X1 cm float
Upto 1X1 cm hole/stain
Over 1X1 cm to 2X2 hole/stain
Over 2X2 cm hole/stain
1 point
2 points
3 points
4 points
Yarn variation/Beam
motion/Barre effect
Penalty points
Minor
Major
2 points
4 points
3 points and 4 points are pointed and are called cutable defects.
1 and 2 point are identified by stickers and panels replaced cutting.
The maximum points and flags allowed as follows:SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
FABRIC
100% cotton and its blends
100% linear and its blends
Max. no. of
allowed points
40
40
5
4
Others
Penalty points
Patta
Count or composition variation
Short end
Selvedge loose
Wrong drawing
Reed marks
Temple marks
Damaged selvedge
Wrong weave
Cutable defect
Cutable defect
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
Reject roll
4. The shade of the fabric should match with the approved shade of fabric from H.O.
5. There should not be shade variation from selvedge to selvedge, centre to selvedge and start
and end
6. A repeating defect or running should not extend for more than 3 yards (2.73 meters),
otherwise the roll will be considered second quality.
7. No piece will be acceptable as first quality if it has noticeable side-to-side, side-to-centre or
end-to-end shading within a roll or a piece.
This is used to inspect the fabric defects and measure the total meters of the fabric. Machinery
Brands include Kaigu, Aura, Ramsons checkmate.
FABRIC TESTS
o Fabric Shrinkage is a very important factor for any physical inspection. Mistakes in
appropriate checking might prove disadvantageous for the pilot run followed by
production. An optimum conduction of the width and shrinkage properties has to be
made. The fusing of lining to some parts may also be done in the cloth store. If the shrink
characteristics are consistent, then the patterns may be designed to the correct oversize
and sampling checks for consistent shrinkage carried out. Color changes can also occur at
the time of fusing as the temperatures might have been controlled or were out of the
prescribed limits.
E .g Size of the fabric= 100 * 100
Or
50 * 50
According to the above picture, a fabric piece of the above mentioned specification is cut
and marked accordingly. Then a wash with a soft enzyme is given. The deviation is
shrinkage if any is marked between the points. Shrinkage of 1-1.5 cm is acceptable. If it is
more than this then the merchandiser is supposed to take the desired action.
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o
Color Fastness or Crocking: In order to check color fastness, 2 fabric swatches are taken.
On 1 of the swatch, a white seam is put on all the four sides of the fabric. Both of the them
are washed and the results are compared. If it is stained or slotted then its rejected.
o
C.S or Centre Selvedge test: This test is used to check the color variation in the fabric.
Full width of the fabric is taken (length can vary according to requirement say 10). The
Fabric is divided into 6 pieces and their grain line is marked.
These pieces are then cut and re stitched in a random series. For e.g. 3, 6, 2, 5, 4, 1.
When we arrange these fabric pieces in a series, we can see the shade variation in the same
fabric. Noting of this variation is very important at the time of cutting.
Maximum CS is seen in solid/printed fabrics as compared to stripes and checks.
o Others include dry clean and washability, abrasion resistance, pilling (especially for mixed
fibers), Bow and skew (using a ruler and set square for checks and stripes), Drape and crease
resistance (that includes permanent press capability), Strength (tensile, tear and bursting (for
seams), Flammability, Surface wetting and penetration.
FABRIC DEFECTS
o Abrasion Mark: A place in the fabric where the surface has been damaged
due to friction or abnormally weakened by any operation through which it
has been passed.
o Misprint: In printed fabrics, either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly
positioned relative to each other.
o Double Pick: Two yarns running simultaneously, mostly in the weft yarn.
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
Name of suppliers
V.C.M synthetics, Symbolic fabrics, Arvind mills, Ashok weaving, Vaibhav trading,
Siyarams, J Hampstead.
TRIMS STORES
This store is responsible for storing and neatly maintaining the trims received from the
suppliers, approved by H/O.
Trims card to be readily available for each of the PO/style being processed that is duly approved
by the nominated quality assurance person.
Challan
Make trims
card
Checking
Trims receiving
Buttons
Hooks
Badges
Zippers
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SPREADING
-
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables and
laying them in superimposed plies of specified length.
The number of lays depends upon the number of garments desired and the fabric
thickness.
The maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks
caused by stencil marks.
Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage
of the total fabric area.
Type of lay plan used: Since open width fabric is used, full garment lay is used that has
both left and right pieces.
Type of lay: Multiple Ply is used in which a number of fabric layers are stacked on one
top of other.
Forms of spreading: Fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in
the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.
Fabric weight
Height
Heavy Weight
4-5"
Med Weight
3-4"
Light Weight
2.5-3"
Laying parameters
Pattern matching.
Relaxing the fabric to remove all the tensions.
Allignment of ply edges in correct position over each other.
Lay order plan :
Example 1
Size ratio = 1:2:2:1
39
31
48
37
43
40
40
62
48
58
42
40
62
48
58
44
20
31
24
29
Total
131
203
157
188
679
Average no of lays
39
31
31
40
20
20
42
20
20
44
20
0
11
III
CUTTING
Cutting parameters:
-
Precision in cutting: To ensure the cutting of fabric - accurately according to the line
drown of the marker plan.
Clean edge: By avoiding the fraying out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge must
be smooth clean. Knife must be sharp for smooth or clean edge.
Consistency in cutting: All the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife
should be operated of the right angle of the fabric lay.
Scissors
Round knife
Straight knife
Band knife cutting m/c
Die cutting ( collars and cuffs )
Heat
150 degree
140 degree
175 degree
Pressure
2.5
1.5
3
Time
13 sec
15 sec
18 sec
EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT
Embroidery pattern is received that specifies the no. of stitches, colors, the pattern, size and
placement.
Design is loaded in floppy disc and inserted in the machine memory.
Embroidery machines:
Company
Silver sun
Barudan
No. of heads
9
4
No. of needles
9
9
No. of machines
3
1
A Strike-off : is a pre production sample of embroidery which is done in order to check the accuracy
of the pattern and the associated stitches in it. This is then sent to the H.O for feedback and approval. If
any changes, theH.O will return their feedback with necessary changes or comments. The type of
stitches depends upon the fabric. If the fabric is thin, then heavy stitches are avoided.
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
The sampling for each season begins according to the product cycle of style. This process is also
called Product development (P.D). One should also know the tentative size ratio in each style.
This is because the costing of the product depends highly on the fabric consumption. Kinds of
samples prepared:
1) Photosample: only sketch/illustration of the garment is present in the photosample
sheet.
2) Fit sample: one sample in base size measurement is made and send for approval at
head office.
3) Size set: one garment sample in each size is prepared and sent for approval. No need to
add the trims to the garment.
4) PP sample: This is the pre-production sample that is the exact replica like original
sample.
5) Shipment sample: A random sample is picked from the production lot and sent for
approval.
PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
Sewing Process
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The basic process of sewing involves fastening of fabrics, with the help of needle and threads.
Most of such industrial sewing is done by industrial sewing machines. The cut pieces of a
garment are generally tacked, or temporarily stitched at the initial stage if required. The
complex parts of the machine then pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and
interlocks the thread.
Industrial Sewing
Industrial sewing is quite a complex process involving many preparations and mathematical
calculations for the perfect seam quality. Good quality sewing also depends on the sound
technical knowledge that goes into pattern designing and making. Flat sheets of fabric having
holes and slits into it can curve and fold in three-dimensional shapes in very complex ways
that require a high level of skill and experience to manipulate into a smooth, wrinkle-free
design. Aligning the patterns printed or woven into the fabric also complicates the design
process. Once a clothing designer, with the help of his technical knowledge, makes the initial
specifications and markers, the fabric is then cut using templates and sewn.
These undesirable variations in the cloth tension affect the product quality. Therefore, there
arises the need of strict control over the whole process. The work of sewing is focused on the
handling of fabrics lying on the working table and guide them towards the sewing machines
needle along the seam line. The attention is equally focused on the control of appropriate
tensional force so as to maintain high quality seam.
Sequence of seams to be stitched is determined before the sewing starts. Which part will be
joined first, what stitches will follow one another, etc. are decided. However, some stitches
have to be necessarily done before or after another stitch. In the example above, the
decorative stitches must be done first followed by the joining stitches.
Sewing Fabrics
The sewing process consists of mainly three functions - guiding fabric towards needle; sewing
of the fabric edge; and rotation around the needle. The fabric is guided along the sewing line
with a certain speed that is in harmony with the speed of sewing machine
The orientation error is either manually monitored or if monitored automatically then error is
fed to the machine controller so that the machine corrects the orientation of the fabrics.
When one edge of seam line is sewed, the fabric is rotated around the needle till the next
edge of the seam line coincides with the sewing line. The sewing process is thus repeated until
all the edges of seam line planned for sewing, are sewed.
analysis of quality problems or "sewability testing" and also quality monitoring. It takes
various factors into consideration, such as the needle geometry (including the point angle and
point length of the needle), the friction between the needle and the fabric, the friction
between the needle eye and the thread along with fabrics' property, and the sewing
conditions.
Lot or Batch
size
Size
Code
Sample
Size
28
9 15
2
3
15 25
26 50
51-90
91-150
151-280
251-500
501-1200
1201-3200
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
5
8
13
20
32
50
80
125
0
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
1
1
2
2
3
4
6
8
0
1
1
2
3
5
7
10
1
2
2
3
4
6
8
11
0
1
2
3
5
7
10
14
1
2
3
4
6
8
11
15
3201-10000
10001- 35000
200
315
10
14
11
15
14
21
15
22
21
21
22
22
Cleanliness
Pressing
Possible Defects
1. Fabric holes
2. Slubs
3. Shading variation
4. Misprints, out-of-register prints, undesired color spots
5. Cut, visible notch mark tears or visible surface repairs
6. Bow or skew exceeding 1.5 percent
7. Double picks
8. Pilling
1. Soil, Spots, stains or Dust
2. Attached thread clusters
1. Burn or scorch marks
2. Glaring shine marks
3. Press marks from camps
4. Absence of pressing when specified
5. Products packaged moist after steam pressing
6. Improper pressing
7. Seams not lined up when specified for center leg crease
8. Loops twisted after pressing
9. Uneven creases after press
1. Twisted, roped, or puckered seams
2. Open or broken stitches
3. Raw edges where covered edges are specified
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Button holes
Button/Button Sewing
Waistband
Belt Loops
Hems
Pockets
Zippers
Gripper
Fly area
Labels
2. Random final audit or inspection : this will be carried out when goods are in the
pressing and packing till its completion. Oxemberg QAD team will carry out random
audit at AQL 4 inorder to make this audit a truly effective tool, since it is the last check
point before dispatch, following information is essential.
A) All the line detail information mentioned there in plus.
B) Washed approved samples ( in case of washed order).
C) Packing list wherever applicable.
Planning: This involves a long term overview around the year, based on market
forecast. An agreement is necessary about whether the production unit can cope up
with the expected sales, in terms of overall volume and in terms of specialized plant and
operatives. The action is required of relevant departments to revise the plan, purchase
the necessary machinery, train staff, obtain new premises or lease off unwanted ones,
buying additional capacity from other manufacturers etc.
ii.
Scheduling: The work is allocated to the production capacity according to the agreed
plan as soon as the orders are confirmed. It is at this stage that schedules are prepared
as an exercise and later drafted in detail.
iii.
Controlling: The production process is very uncertain and rarely goes according to the
schedule, especially when the processes are complex and dependent on the
performance of individuals. Sometimes orders are cancelled and rush orders come
through. Inefficiency can be avoided if the preliminary work is done thoroughly and the
routine terms are accurately recorded. Balancing is a part of the process.
i.Time/ unit input: e.g. meters of cloth or SAM of work per minute.
ii.Work in process delays: Extension in output time is necessary to provide buffer against
fluctuations in output where the no. of processes involved are many.
iii.Technical maintenance: Proper usage and maintenance of the machines and other
electronically equipments should be done to provide smooth operation processes.
iv.Employee Training: The employees should be trained efficiently to increase production
efficiency and reduce wastage.
v.Non productive hours: A provision for non-productive hours should be provided in the total
available minutes as these by default are bound to happen. For e.g. lunch time, talking, going to
washroom, sitting idle etc. These hours can be deceased by making changes in the production
plan wisely.
vi.Line balancing: This is necessary to reduce the wastage of time as some workers might be
sitting idle because the feeding has not been done properly and the pieces are not being
delivered to them on time. The overall operation machine layout is faulty due to improper line
balancing. A machine layout is considered to be optimum if all the machines in the line are
producing their required quantities of pieces and no worker is sitting idle. Line balancing can be
a way to increase the productivity as increasing or decreasing unwanted operations from the
line can be done.
vii.Analyzing labour requirements and deficiencies: A difference in skilled and non-skilled labour
can be assessed and accordingly work can be assigned to them.
viii.Optimum utilization of time and raw materials: Any type of unnecessary wastages should be
avoided as far as possible. This requires a good production plan and the co ordination of related
activities.
Production flow
This refers to the series in which the garment moves from one workstation to another,
requiring completion of the desired operation. The garments move from one work station to
another in a straight line. The straight could be work stations set up on either side of a belt
conveyer/runner table. There is little amount or work in process between the stations. In these
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cases, a limited amount of storage occurs after each workstation. This can take the form of
work bins attached to the machines stand in which the work is
Straight line or conveyer chain system
Where
a work station is
is storage
Quality implies value. It is something that is build into the garment from the stage of market
research and design right up to pack and dispatch and extends beyond a careful analysis of the
customer returns and consultation with the buyers. The quality of the garment is the reason
that is bought by the customer and comprises of a set of quality characteristics which together
make up its fitness for purpose. The key to profitable garment manufacture is to provide the
best combination at lowest cost the economic quality level.
Quality of design
Quality of conformance
Quality of delivery and service
Economic cost
Tolerances
These are the limits of acceptability expressed in figures usually or by examples or photographs
to demonstrate the limits of acceptability. For example, the specification for a seam margin may
be 1 cm and the tolerance is -/+2 mm.
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Quality characteristics
Quality of design requires higher amount of market research to establish what is the ultimate
customers preference at an acceptable price amongst a competitive set of characteristics. These
can form the basis for design. Customers demand various combinations of the following, in
various orders of importance:
Quality Specifications
o Factory specifications
Special tolerances
Fabric and trimmings, colors and shades ( shade cards checked regularly for fading)
2) TRIMS STORES:
o Trims stores have racking system to store the trims in a proper order.
o Trims card for each PO/style being processed should be maintained.
3) CUTTING SECTION:
o Making CSV ( centre to selvedge variation) sample for each of the roll to analyze
the shade variation.
o Maintaining shade samples and providing shade details to presentation checkers
in finishing dept for shade reference.
o Proper pattern checking report.
o Proper lay check, marking check, sorting/bundling check report.
o Cutting projection tallies updated.
4) SEWING SECTION
o Effective maintenance for each of the machine.
o Proper updated broken needle log (should have needle issuing record from
stores and properly pasted broken needle book).
o Keyhole, bartack, overlock, label attach operation internal approvals and display
of mockups.
o Effective mockup system on all operational areas.
o All scissors and trimmers should be secured properly.
o Clearance of WIP at all levels.
o Display of trim card at required areas.
o Checking garments before wash and after wash for both quality and
measurement.
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o Random in-line checking at each chain stitch operation like feed of arm machine.
o Each supervisor is advised to check randomly the operation in their own working
limits.
o Each operator is advised to clean their machine and area before start of work in
the morning and after lunch- waste fabric is issued to the operator for the same.
o In-line and end-line checking report.
o Before wet processing in-line audit report is also maintained.
o Washing facility is not available in-house. Its done on jobber basis.
5) FINISHING SECTION
o Fabric defect identification by stickering and alteration piece identified by
knotting at place of alter by the checker.
o Dusting is done by dust pads wherever sucking machine is not used.
o Cartoons are properly stacked.
o Presentation checker to have ready reference of shade cards of fabric and trims
cards as well.
o Daily checking report is maintained.
o Measurement audit report is maintained.
o Pre-final auditing is also gone on garments.
o Defective cartoons are replaced by good cartoons.
Trims inspection
Cutting Room
Marker checking
Cut parts checking or audit
Bundle inspection
Embroidery
Sewing
Department
Finishing
Department
1.
Fabric Store: In the fabric store fabric is being checked before issuing it to cutting
department. In general not all the fabric is checked. 100 % fabric checking is done. Fabrics are
checked in flat table, flat table with light box or on fabric checking machine. 4 point system for
fabric inspection is used to measure the quality level of the incoming fabric.
2.
Trims & Accessory: Trims quality is also very important for having a quality garment.
Trims inspection is done randomly against the given standards, like color matching. But for
trims and accessories quantity checking is essential.
3.
Cutting Room: It is said that cutting is the heart of production. If cutting is done well
then chances of occurring defects in the following processes comes down. In cutting room,
check points are I) marker checking, ii) cut part audit and iii) bundle checking.
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4.
Embroidery checking: It is also not a compulsory process. If there is embroidery work in
the garment panels then 100% inspection is done before issuing to sewing.
5.
Sewing Department: Checkpoints in the sewing departments are as following.
- Inline inspection: In assembly line generally check pints are kept for the critical operations. In
these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially stitched garments and defect free pieces
are forwarded to the next process.
- Roaming inspection: In this case checkers roam around the line and randomly check pieces at
each operation.
- End of line inspection or table checking: A checker checks completely stitched garment at the
end of the line. 100% checking is done here.
- Audit of the checked pieces: 100% inspected garment are sent to finishing from sewing
department. And all defective pieces are repaired before sending to finishing.
6. Finishing Department: Check points in finishing department consists
- Initial finishing inspection: checking done prior to pressing of the garment at finishing room is
known as initial finishing.
- Final finishing Inspection: After pressing garments are again checked and passed for tagging
and packing.
- Internal final audit: After garments are packed up to certain quantity, quality control team,
does audit of packed garments. This process is carried out to ensure that before handing over
shipment.
If the completed work is being checked at each process and defective pieces are corrected
before handing to the next process than at the end of production there is very little chance to
have a defective at final inspection stage.
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The finishing process includes all those activities concerned with making the appearance of the
fabric more presentable. It includes activities like stain removal, thread trimmings, washing,
ironing, tagging, and hanger alignment.
Bartack: Putting barracks on loops, pockets etc.
Washing: Sometimes, the buyers demand that garments must be given a wash after
stitching.
Button, button hole and rivet attach
Extra Thread trimming: The extra threads which have been left uncut are trimmed. This can
be done manually with thread cutters.
Stain removal: Different types of stains might be formed at the time of garment handling
operations. Different kinds of stains include ball point stains, oil stains, dirt stains etc. Different
kinds of chemicals are used for their removal. For example, Ball point stain is removed with ink
remover, stains on white fabrics are removed with a chemical called Ariel lines, Ltk-45 is used
for removing yellow and black stains from colored fabrics, N-9 is used to remove stains on light
colored fabrics, Emrol-ol and petrol is used to remove other hard stains.
Thread sucking : this is done to remove the threads stuck to the fabric surface that are too
minute to remove. For this, a thread sucking machine is used to remove threads with air blow
and vaccum sucking. Also, adhesive tapes are wrapped on rolls and then moved over the
garments, especially in trouser finishing this step is essential.
WORKFLOW OF FINISHING
Bartack and
buttonholing
Washing
Thread sucking
Stain removal
Thread trimming
Alteration
Ironing
Warehousing
Packing
TYPES OF DEFECTS
I.
Some parts of pattern are missing, probably because the marker did not include the
correct number of parts.
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Mixed parts, probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a
marriage of wrong sized parts. Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped
fabrics.
Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
Poor line definition (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not
powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
Skimpy marking, caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the
pattern; or the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking to squeeze the
pattern into a smaller space for economizing the fabric.
The pattern may have worn out edges.
Generous marking, especially in combination with skimpy marking results in
components being sewn together with puckering and pleating.
When the marker is too wide, the garment parts at the edges of the lay get cut with bits
missing.
Not enough knife clearance freedom.
Wrong check matching, i.e. lines across the seam are not matching.
Wrong checks boxing i.e. checks are not showing a full/partial box across the seam.
Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or misplaced.
II.
V.
2.
If there are not enough end bits to replace the damaged parts from the garment, then
available fresh fabric is used. Only use fresh fabric if there is no problem with shade
matching otherwise it will increase the fabric consumption. But for solid colors and yarn
dyed fabric there is no issue related to shade matching.
3.
Garment
Shirt
Trousers
98kg m/c
350 pHs
200 pHs
48kg m/c
200 pHs
80pcs
5. Steam boiler
Gas, coal, thermal oil
WASHES
a. Softener wash ( enzyme wash )
Its of 3 types ionic, non-ionic, and cationic.
b. Enzyme wash
OT, desizer, lubricant, water washing at 52degrees, Acetic acid (pH), Enzyme (to
stabilize), Water wash, Silicon, softener.
Power wash enzyme: Powdered enzyme is used with ball beating
Biofinish
c. Detergent wash
Ariel and tide
d. Leather wash
e. Powder wash pumice in powder form
f. Pumice stone wash
PRECAUTIONS
FABRIC
Pigment padded fabric
White garment
Worsted fabric
Trouser
Shirt fabric
Yarn dyed
X
No heavy wash is given
because it can cause color
bleeding.
No heavy wash
No heavy wash
DENIM WASHES
o MACHINERY USED Front vertical loader m/c: (98kg, 150kg, 300 kg).
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
1. Raw/Rinse wash: removal of sizing agent and then garment is rinsed, softener is added
and then dried in hydro. No fading process is done.
2. Raw resin: This is done to fix the color onto the fabric and to make it wrinkle resistant.
Catalyst, softener and resin are added then ironing is done.
3. Denimix: After desizing, enzymes (bio-degradable agent) are added (acidic/neutral) to
give fading of color (lighter tone). For fancy denims, scraping and tucking is used along
with denimix.
Neutral (pH 6.5-7)
Temp 45-55 degrees
VALUE ADDED WASHES:1. Tucking : The piece is tucked with the help of tucking machine at the
place where we want to have the wash effect.
2. Scraping: Sandpaper is used to scrap the fabric to reveal the faded
effect.
3. Spraying: Dyes are sprayed over the garment in different angles and
strokes to reveal the sprayed effect.
4. Whiskering:
5. Crinkling
6. Crackle: The piece is tied at the place where we want to avoid color
penetration in pleats and then dyed.
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Use a larger diameter thread on operations where the thread is being cut.
Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chain stitch seam on
denim, we should maintain a 60%/40% relationship of Needle thread to looper
thread in the Seam.
Change the needles at regular intervals on operations where the Needle Cuts
are occurring frequently.
Use a higher performance core spun thread that has greater resistance to chemical
degradation.
- Using larger thread sizes when the Denim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical
washes.
-
Making sure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are correct and that the
proper amounts and sequence of chemical dispersion are within guidelines.
- Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the chemicals in the
fabric.
-
Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure they are
correct so that the best possible garment quality can be achieved.
4. Unraveling Seams:
Generally occurs on 401 chain stitch seams where either the stitch has been broken or a
skipped stitch has occurred. This will cause seam failure unless the seam is Re stitched.
Use a high performance Core-spun thread that will minimize broken stitches
and skipped stitches.
5. Restitched Seams:
Where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does
not appear to be 1st quality merchandise. Caused by:
1. Thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing; or
2. Cut or broken stitches during a subsequent treatment of the finished product (I.e.,
stone washing).
Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance
thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions.
Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and
sewing operation
6. Skipped Stitches:
Where the stitch forming device misses the needle loop or the needle misses the looper loop.
Skips are usually found where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time occurs
right before or right after the heavy thickness.
7.
Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that help to minimize flagging.
Where the seam does not lay flay and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or
during subsequent laundering and handling operations.
8.
Ropy Hem:
Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted properly for uniform feeding of the top
and bottom plies.
10.
Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the thread sits on top of
the fabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sewn in the warp.
Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during laundry.
does
not
wash
down
to
different
color
altogether.
Use threads from the same thread supplier and do not mix threads in a garment.
Make sure sewing operators select thread by type and color number and do not
just pick a thread off the shelf because it looks close in color.
Customer
Merchandising Department
Order Processing
Credit Check
Inventory Check
Order for Dispatch
Replenishment of stock
Intimation to customers
Dispatch of goods
Collection of payments
Packaging
Packing is traditionally meant to protect goods. However, it is also a promotional tool and a major image
builder contributing to product success. Packing is a process that speaks of companys ability to contain
economically man made or natural products for shipment, storage, sale or final use. Packaging on the
other hand deals with activities of planning and designing of different means of packaging the product.
However, it should be noted that packing is concerned with product protection while packaging is
concerned product promotion.
Objectives of packing
Protection of the product: To keep the garments clean, fresh and unspoilt by using moisture
proof and damage resistant materials. Its done basically to avoid any type of deterioration or
contamination of the garment. The main aim is to maintain the quality of the garments intact
unaffected by dust and dirt.
Product identification: Packing is a convenient way to identify the products of different buyers as
each buyer would have a different type of packing requirement. The size, color combinations,
graphics used in each package are unique and can be easily remembered.
Product convenience: Packing aims at providing maximum convenience to the purchasers,
producers and distributors alike. A nicely designed product package facilitates product shipping,
storage, stocking, handling and display on part of producers and distributors. Neat packing can
bring reduction in inventory costs, packing cost, space and time costs.
Product package promotion: A good packaging performs effective advertising function. The
general appearance and selling features created by the packaging techniques decide the product
success. As a promotional tool, it does self advertising, displaying, publishing and acts as an
advertising medium.
designed to protect it against natural and artificial factors of damage like dirt, dust, theft,
shrinkage, contamination etc.
It Should be attractive: Apart from protection, seeking the attention of the consumers is also
essential. Package design, weight, material, color combinations, graphics, texture, illustrations
etc form the essentials of a good package. Some customers buy products because they are
impressed by the packing. Therefore, package attraction generates impulsive buying.
It Should provide convenience: Good packaging increases product sanitation, ease in handling,
transportation, storing and using packages. The package so designed should grant highest
degree of convenience to manufacturers, distributors and consumers alike. Consumers are
seeking packages that are easy to handle, open and reusable.
It Should be economical: Economy is something that reduces not only packing and its expenses,
but also brings down other allied expenses such as transport, warehousing, tax-levies and
handling. Cost reduction are possible through multi-packaging allows more cost re3duction than
when one pack is sold on its own.
It should be pollution free: It is a well known fact all over the world that packing has
environmental problem, particularly the discarded packing. Hence it is advisable to use recycled
or bio-degradable packaging materials that minimize pollution.
It should be informative: Provision of information about product illustration,
features/specifications, instruction to handle, prices, the amount of product in the package, the
content brands name, and other relevant information for the consumer as well as distributor.
Detailed labeling is a must.
It should assure adjustability: The packaging should have the ability to adjust or flexibility to be
put to different uses. Paper packaging is known for cheapness and lightness.
It should be labeled: Labeling is the act of attaching or tagging labels. A label may be a piece of
paper , printed statement which is either a part of a package or attached to it, indicating value
of contents, price, product name, and place and name of producer. Thus, a label is an
informative tag, wrapper or seal attached to a product or products package.
package contains a larger quantity than the case. There are legal requirements prescribing the
copy appearing on the labels of the cartoons which should be confirmed to.
Test the design in the market: test-marketing must be conducted in the market to get indirect
replies through dealer feedback.
Environmental checking: the packing development decision may be influenced by legal,
ecological and social forces. Thus issues like consumer packing safety, disposable packing, the
quantity of packaging, littering, wise labeling and so on.
Packing strategies
After the garments arrive from the finishing and quality check department, they are packed in hangers or
simple fold pack in polybags, according to buyer requirements. Here, multiple packaging strategies are
followed. It is a kind of strategy in which a no. of closely related but heterogeneous products used by one
consumer are placed in a single package. Such a package conveys that idea of an ideal matching set that one
should possess. For example as in case of assorted collection kids wear packages are packed along together.
It facilitates acceptance of a new product idea by a consumer who normally may not want to venture into
buying it. However there is danger of the whole package being rejected through a consumer who is
interested in only one or two items in the total set. Since the consumer will have to buy the whole set he will
reject the 2 items he was favoring a will not buy the set.
Inventory
Inventory management is a task of planning and controlling of finished goods after they have been bought
from the production department and before their delivery to the users. It has 2 parts: Inventory and
Warehousing.
Warehousing: This performs two functions namely movement and storage of goods. Movement
refers to the actual receipt of products from the manufacturing centre their transfer in the
warehouse and stocking at designated place, assorting to consumer orders and transferring them to
common carriers on their way to consumers. The storage function is mainly concerned with holding
and caring the goods from the time they are placed in, till they are places out in common carriers. It
is basically a safety and preservative function.
Inventory controlling: Inventory implies the stock of goods held over a period of time for meeting
the consumer needs. For the production department, inventory means stock of raw material,
machine and parts, stock of goods partly manufactured and finished goods. For the distributors or
dispatchers, it is the finished stock meant of the final consumption.
Material Handling
This refers to the handling of the goods ready for dispatch. They can be classified into:
Manual: This involves usage of human labour. This is restricted to areas with unorganized plant
layout and costs of movements.
Mechanical: This involves the use of machines driven by power like for e. g cranes, trucks,
stackers, side loaders, mobile cranes etc. these have more fixed costs if the capacity utilization is
less.
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
Automatic: These are fully automatic operated by automatic machines and computers. These
require heavy capital investments.
Packing mechanism in the factory:Inner boxes are used to pack the pieces. 1 inner can have 50-60 pieces. These inners are again
packed in outer boxes. 1 box can have 3-5 inners.
For example :
Brand
Oxemberg
Beach pebble
MSD
J Hampstead
Qty
60 ics
48 pcs
Inner packs pakaging
3 boxes
33pcs
48pcs
The packing quantity per carton depends upon buyer specifications.
o Packing stratergies:1. MSD ( casual )
1 small inner 12 shirts.
So 1 big inner=5 inners = 60 shirts
Jeans pack size ratio wise
SOFT ( NIFT, Pune )
60pcs
2. TROUSER ( oxemberg )
1 inner = 16-17 pieces
3.
o Storage: Racking is done size wise, style wise, garment wise, sleeve length wise(half
sleeves/full sleeves). Each rack is given a rack no. Restickering according to buyer
mentioned in memo.
o Storage capacity: Shirt: 80000-2,00,000 & Trousers and jeans 30,000 pcs
o Distributor (MSD & Oxemberg)
- S.V enterprises (Hyderabad)
- A.M patel (Oxemberg)
- Maharashtra ( J.K apparels)
- Chandigarh (Ahuja traders)
- Delhi (Vishesh college)
o Cargo services T &T, XPS, TCI, VRL
o Transport providers Lalji mulji transport, Batco india