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1.

FITTING WING TIP BRACES AND GUSSETS

STEP 1
Apply adhesive to the edges of the gusset, secure in place and apply a further fillet of adhesive along
the drag tube and spar joints. See Figure 1.1 below.

Figure 1.1

STEP 2
Fit, clean, bond and rivet two W-0100 tip brace tubes between the rear spar and the No 9 rib (one to
the top of the rib and one to the bottom) in the same way as the drag tubes were fitted. See figure 1.2.
This material comes from left over side stringer material. Make sure that the tubes are cleaned /
abraded. When riveting, tap the back of the riveting tool to ensure that the rivet is fully in and to help
squeeze excess adhesive from the joint. This is also to ensure that the ends of the drag tubes fit
intimately to the contour of the spar tube. Secure the brace to the spar tube with two CCP44 1/8 x
Stainless rivets and to the rib with two SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.

Figure 1.2

Immediately recheck all dimensions of wing tip rib before the adhesive sets.

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2. ALLOW ADHESIVE TO HARDEN


Having rechecked your work, leave everything undisturbed for a minimum of 24 hrs. Do not attempt
to move the wing until pressure from a thumbnail leaves no mark on the surface of the adhesive.
3
LIFT STRUTS
The lift struts hold the wings in correct relationship to the fuselage and support the wings when lift
and other stresses are created in flight. The left strut (W-0120) rear tube upper end is fitted with an
adjustable rod end to facilitate wing rigging. The right strut (W-0110) is not so equipped.
STEP 1
With a reamer, ream the front upper end tube of the left lift strut W-0120. Assemble the rod end
and lock nut (W-0130.0/1) onto the rear tube end. There is a witness hole drilled in the side of the rod
end and the threaded end of the strut must always go past this hole. Should the rod end be backed off
such that no threads can be seen through the witness hole then the condition is structurally unsafe and
the rod end must be screwed deeper onto the strut.
STEP 2
As in Step 1, ream the upper end tubes of the right lift strut W-0110. There is no rod end on this
strut. You may also ream the lift strut brackets W-0140 at this time.
4 LIFT STRUT BRACKETS
Note: All four lift strut brackets are W-0140. The brackets for the front spar (W-0140.0) have tie
down rings and are identical so that they will fit either left or right wings. The rear spar brackets (W0140.1/2) are different and have a tab to retain the wings when they are folded. These tabs must point
towards the trailing edge. These brackets were fit to your wings when the wings were set to the
fuselage at the factory. There is a soft aluminum rivet set in the spar tubes. This must be carefully
drilled out so as not to enlarge the hole or disturb the I Beam thats inside the spar tube.
STEP 1
Lay wings underside up.
STEP 2
Attach lift struts (W-0110 right and W-0120 left) to lift strut brackets W-0140 with AN4-16A bolts.
STEP 3
Measure 98 from the root ends of both spars and mark with a thin point felt marker.
STEP 4
Put the lift struts complete with brackets up to the underside of the wings and align the center top
hole on the bracket to the hole where you removed the soft rivet. Put a cleco in to hold it in place and
loosely clamp the strut brackets onto the spars at the 98 mark. The end of the strut bracket might foul
the drag tube; trim the end of the bracket as necessary. See Figure 4.1a.

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Figure 4.1a

Figure 4.2b

STEP 5
Using a single 3 hose clamp to secure each bracket to its respective spar. (See figure 4.2b) Ensure
that the hose clamp driver mechanism does not touch the spar tube in such a way as to gouge it. A
small shim under the driver should avoid any damage without affecting the clamping action.
STEP 6
Elevate the lift strut fuselage end about 3ft and ensure neither bracket moves when doing so.
Recheck that the strut to bracket bolt centers remain at 98 from the root end of the spars. This set up
gives 1.2 degrees of dihedral to the wing and it is therefore essential that it is accurately set.

STEP 7
Place a second hose clamp on the brackets and tighten securely. Recheck the bracket location once
more and once you are satisfied each bracket is in the right place and secure then drilling for the
fasteners can begin.
STEP 8
Start drilling on the center-line of the rear spar bracket with a (No 30) drill bit and place a Cleco in
every other hole. Now drill and Cleco the reminder of the holes working downwards from the center
without disturbing the hose clamps.
STEP 9
Drill and Cleco the front spar bracket up to the same stage as Step 8.
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STEP 10
With both brackets secured by Clecos, remove the hose clamps on both brackets and drill the
remaining holes.
5.

PREPARING AND BONDING LIFT STRUT BRACKETS

STEP 1
After drawing a line outside the boundary of the bracket with a medium point felt marker, remove
the Clecos from both brackets and deburr all holes on both sides of the brackets and on the face of the
spar tube.
STEP 2
Carefully scuff deeply the powder coating from the mating face of each bracket. A coarse emery flap
wheel held in a drill is ideal or by hand with 100-grit emery cloth.
STEP 3
Abrade the surface of the spar with 100-grit emery cloth within the line marked at Step 1. Avoid
scratching the spar tubes except where needed for bonding.
STEP 4
Clean the surface of the brackets and spars using acetone or MEK and paper towels.
STEP 5
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive for both brackets and apply a generous coating to both the bracket and
spar surface. (The epoxy serves 2 functions to give structural strength to the joint and also act as an
anti-corrosion barrier between the dissimilar metals). Set the brackets in their correct position and
secure with rivets. All rivets are the CCP44 1/8 x Stainless, except where the rivets go through the
I Beam. Look into the end of the spar and determine which two lines of rivets go into the I Beam. Here
you would use the SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.
STEP 6
Rivet the entire bracket, (remember which has the long (I beam attach) and which are standard
rivets), except do not rivet down the center-line rivets at either end of the bracket at this time - these
holes will be used later to attach fabric glue down plates. Work from the center-line outwards,
alternating sides, and tapping the rivet setting tool to ensure that each and every rivet is properly seated
before it is set.
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STEP 7
Wipe off the excess adhesive from around the brackets with acetone or MEK.
6
INSTALLING WING JOINT DOUBLERS
The doublers, W-0210, are 4130 steel parts that fit inside each spar (one top and one bottom) and
enable the spars to react better to flight and ground loads. Fit the doublers with their wider part
towards the spar end (insert narrow end first); see Figure 6.1 and 6
Root rib will not be fitted at this time

Drawing 6.1

Figure 6.2

STEP 1
Remove the wings from the fuselage.
STEP 2
The doublers are pre-drilled; see Drawing 6.1 above. Ream out the large hole to 5/16 and the small
rivet holes to No.30 then deburr all holes.
STEP 3
The spars require matching rivet holes to be drilled, the easiest way to achieve this is to place the
doubler on the outside of the spar with the wing bolt used to position the large hole, and then align the
rivet holes along the spar center line. Drill the last one, Clecos in place, then drill the other holes. Do
this for all 8 doubler positions. Deburr spar holes on completion. Although the doublers should all be
identical it is a good idea to number them, so that they can be fitted in the position where they were
used as the template.
STEP 4
Scuff the powder coating from the convex side of the doubler and abrade the inside of the spar tube
with 100-grade emery cloth.
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STEP 5
Apply a generous coating of epoxy to both mating faces then use bolt and Clecos to hold doublers in
place. Secure with CCP44 rivets ensure each rivet is properly seated before it is set. Clean up excess
adhesive on bolt, Clecos, spar and doublers with acetone or MEK. See Figure 6.2 of finished spar end
(the root rib will not have been fitted at this stage).

STEP 6
When the wing is reassembled to the fuselage it will no longer fit. The doublers will have reduced the
inside dimension of the spar. Using a dial caliper, measure the inside dimension of each spar (i.e.
between the doublers) and modify its corresponding head rack mounting bushing. Remove material
from the bottom of each mounting bushing until the overall length is 0.010 shorter than the inside
dimension between the doublers. Finally, slightly round both front and rear edges of the mounting
bushing to correspond with the inner radius of the doublers.

Note: It is important to remove the excess material from the bottom of the tube only otherwise the
angle of attack of the wing will be adversely affected.

7.

JURY STRUT ATTACHMENT

STEP 1
The jury strut spar attach brackets (4), W-0700, each require two mounting holes drilled (one on each
leg). Open out these holes to 1/8, ensuring a minimum edge distance. Ream the tab to take the
AN3-4A bolt.

STEP 2
With the wings bottom up, level the two spars.

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*Note-- A better way: Mark a line on the spar tubes at 53 from the root end. Use a long straight edge
rubbed on the bottom of spars at these dimensions respectively and attach the brackets at a 90 angle.

Jury Strut

90 degrees

Rear Spar

Bottom of wing

Front Spar
Top of wing
Diagram 7.1

STEP 5
Remove brackets, deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100-grit emery cloth.
Scuff powder coat from mating surface of the bracket, and thoroughly clean as previously described.

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STEP 6
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to the brackets. Finally, rivet the
brackets in place with CCP44 1/8 x Stainless rivets supplied and remove surplus adhesive from
around joints. See Figures 7.2a/b.
Jury strut tab riveted on rear spar.

Figure 7.2a

Bottom view of front jury strut bracket


glued and riveted to the front spar.
Note: Lightweight filler has been used
to blend the bracket into the spar. This
improves looks but adds weight.
Figure 7.2b

8
FITTING WING TANK(S)
The following procedure is used for both wing tanks. Remember that the outlets are on the opposite
side of the tanks. Remove just enough material from the front of the tank to see the scribe line on the
tank. The tanks should not protrude above the rib caps. With the wing laying right side up, make a bed
of silicone glue on the tank, where it touches the wing spars, and set them in place.
***NOTE*** The Wings must be on the plane
STEP 1
Temporarily locate the root rib on the spar tubes and place the fuel tank between rib 2 and the root rib
(rib 1). Make sure the tank nestles closely with the webs of each rib. You will need to modify the root
rib slightly to allow the fuel outlet to pass through the rib; sufficient space should be allowed for the
fuel tubing to fit snugly on the outlet nipple and be tightened down with a hose clamp (F-106A). Mark
the position of the root rib (note: please ensure that rib 1 is positioned in exactly the same position on
both wings.) on the spar tubes with a felt marker.
Remove the end rib and the tank. Abrade the root rib location areas on both spars, then thoroughly
clean with acetone or MEK to the standard previously described. Reassemble the tank and rib.
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In the center of each fuel tank cap, drill a 3/16 hole all the way through. Now disassemble the cap
and drill out the 3/16 hole to hole in the top part of the cap only. Do not go all the way through the
top with the hole.
This is for the fuel tank breather tubes. Install the tubes and epoxy into place. The tubes should face the
front.
STEP 2
***Do not proceed with the following step until the wings have been set onto to the fuselage***
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and proceed to bond the root rib into position,
See figure 8.1

Figure 8.1
STEP 3
After the epoxy has set and cured, (24 hrs), further secure the tank by applying the silicon provided,
between the tank and the spar tubes. After 24 hours (at least), depending on temperature and humidity,
it may take as many as three days for the silicone to cure completely.
Use body filler to smooth out the transition between the ribs and the leading edge. See Figure 8.2

Figure 8.2
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Step 4
Use scrap wood and make small filler blocks to glue between tank and root rib in three places on the
bottom. See Figure 8.3. This keeps the covering from bowing in the rib when shrunk.

Figure 8.3

9.
FITTING WING TRAILING EDGE
The wing trailing edges are pre-formed light alloy W-0295.
STEP 1
Using a fine saw cut away the top and bottom rib cap strips in line with the rear face of the rib web.
Radius the cut edges so that they will conform to the inside radius of the metal trailing edge.
STEP 2
Fit metal trailing edge and temporarily secure in position with masking tape. It will take 2 pieces of
material, but joint the 2 pieces onto the center of a rib and cut the ends square with the outside ribs 1 &
9. Mark the position of each rib cap strip on the top front edge of the trailing edge i.e. 2 marks 1 apart,
coinciding with the edges of the cap strip.
STEP 3
Check that the rib cap ends fit snugly into the trailing edge and mark any that require further work.
STEP 4
Adjust rib cap strips as required.
STEP 5
Refit the trailing edge section and mark each rib cap strip back from the forward edge of the
trailing edge section on both top and bottom (Do not drill into the rib web). Make sure that the
trailing edge fits tightly to the ribs. Drill 1/8 diameter holes through the trailing edge and into the rib
cap strip. Carefully countersink the holes in the trailing edge material and cleco in place.
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STEP 6
Mark the inside face of the trailing edge section where the rib web and cap strips fit with a fine line
felt marker.
STEP 7
Abrade the inside face of the trailing edge section marked in Step 7 with 100 grade emery cloth and
thoroughly clean to the same standard previously called for prior to epoxy bonding.
STEP 8
Mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to the rear face of the spar webs and where the
trailing edge section will overlap the rib cap strips. Secure the trailing edge section in position with
masking tape and rivet in place. Remove any extruded adhesive from the rear trailing edge face to rib
web joints at Ribs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7 & 9. Do not over-set the rivets. Stop when the metal section is
pulled down and when you feel the tail of the rivet begin to expand. Finally, apply a fillet of
adhesive all round the joints except the where the rear face of the trailing edge joins the rib webs of
Ribs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7 & 9, and dress to a neat radius as previously described. Rivet with #41010 1/8 x 1/4
flush aluminum rivets.
STEP 9
To enable water to leave the bays, make drainage holes in the trailing edge in the inboard rear corner of
each bay. Refer to Appendix F for fuel tank gap filler rib and filler strip installation.

10. FLAP AND AILERON HINGE BRACKETS


Hinge bearing brackets for the aileron are attached to Ribs 5, 7 & 9 and those for the flap are fitted to
Ribs 1, 2 & 4. The brackets are fitted in pairs on either side of the rib material (i.e. apart). To
achieve this, the trailing edge has to be slotted both sides of the affected rib.
STEP 1
Locate ribs 1, 2,4,5,7, & 9. Place a mark on the trailing edge at these rib locations on both sides of the
rib. These marks are the inside lines of the slot thats needed for the hinge attach brackets.
See Figure 10.1A and 10.1B

FIGURE10.1 A

FIGURE 10.1B
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STEP 2
Chain drill the slot with a 3/32drill. Join the holes using a small round file and finally file to the
marked lines, or use a Dremel type drill with slot cutting attachment. Be careful: do not attack the
rib material. It is essential that the inside face of each slot aligns with the rib web face otherwise the
hinge brackets will not fit snugly to the webs and difficulty will be experienced when fitting the
aileron and flap. See figure 10.2

Figure 10.2

11. AILERON TRAILING EDGE

The trailing edges W-0320.0 are pre-formed light alloy.


STEP 1
Refer to Drawing 11.1.
The ribs are made to fit inside the trailing edge W-0320 and should not require any additional
preparation. When fitted into the trailing edge the distance from the rear face of the spar tube to the
trailing edge should be 8 (this is also 9 from the spar center). This measurement has to be set
correctly because the hinges are measured from the trailing edge.

STEP 2
The alloy trailing edge will have to be cut to the correct length. Fit and securely tape the trailing edge
to the ribs, ensuring the ends of the ribs are nested with the inside radius of the trailing edge. Mark the
position of each rib cap strip on the top and bottom front edges of the trailing edge with a fine line felt
marker, i.e. 2 marks at each point spaced by the width of the cap strip. Also, mark where the trailing
edge front edge crosses the cap strip top and bottom (so you know where to apply epoxy glue).

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STEP 3
Remove trailing edge and abrade the inside face at each rib position with 100-grit emery cloth and
thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 4
Replace trailing edge onto ribs and clamp in place making sure that trailing edge is at right angles to
all ribs then center punch and drill a No 40 (3/32") hole, back from the trailing edge leading edge
and midway between the rib center line and right hand outer edge of the cap strip. Turn aileron over
and repeat, locating the rivet hole on the opposite side of the rib web. Countersink all holes in trailing
edge material.

STEP 5
Remove trailing edge, mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to each rib tail. Re-fit the
trailing edge and secure in position with masking tape.
Ensure all joints are well coated with adhesive adding further fillets where necessary.
Ensure measurements are still correct then fit countersink rivets11826-00029 3/32 x 1/8 flush
aluminum. Pull carefully so as not to split the wood of the ribs.

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Aileron and Flap Rib


Aileron Hinge
pivot point
Flap Hinge
pivot point

Refer to page 65

10

Drawing 11.1

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12 FLAP TRAILING EDGE


The trailing edges are pre-formed light alloy.
STEP 1
Refer to Drawing 11.1.
The ribs are made to fit inside the trailing edge W-0440 and should not require any additional
preparation. When fitted into the trailing edge the distance from the rear face of the spar tube to the
trailing edge should be 8 (this is also 9 from the spar center).
STEP 2
The alloy trailing edge will have to be cut to the correct length.
Fit and securely tape the trailing edge to the ribs, ensuring the ends of the ribs are nested with the
inside radius of the trailing edge. Mark the position of each rib cap strip on the top and bottom front
edges of the trailing edge with a fine line felt marker, i.e. 2 marks at each point spaced by the width of
the cap strip. Also, mark where the trailing edge front edge crosses the cap strip top and bottom (so
you know where to apply epoxy glue).
STEP 3
Abrade the inside face of the trailing edge at each rib position with 100 grit emery cloth and
thoroughly clean as previously described.
STEP 4
Replace trailing edge onto ribs and clamp in place making sure that trailing edge is at right angles to
all ribs then center punch and drill a No 40 (3/32) hole, back from the trailing edge leading edge
and midway between the rib center line and right hand outer edge of the cap strip. Turn the aileron
over and repeat, locating the rivet hole on the opposite side of the rib web. Countersink all holes in
trailing edge material.
STEP 5
Remove trailing edge, mix and apply a generous coating of epoxy adhesive to each rib tail. Re-fit the
trailing edge and secure in position with masking tape. Ensure all joints are well coated with adhesive
adding further fillets where necessary. Fit countersink rivets, W-0330; pull carefully so as not to split
the wood of the ribs.

13
AILERON HINGES
STEP 1
Identify the 2 aileron bell cranks W-0340 (left) and W-0350 (right) together with the 4 hinges, W0360, and bronze bushings, W-0370. With each component secured in a vice, ream the bushing
housings with a 5/16 reamer. The bronze bushings should be an easy push fit.
*Note: Do not drill ends of control arm (bell crank) to 5/16.*
STEP 2
Completely remove the powder coating from the mating faces of all 6 components. Mark out, center
punch and drill 1/16 pilot holes in the center and at each corner of the W-0360.0 hinges, ensuring that
there is a minimum edge distance of for the corner holes. Do the same for the bell cranks (2 x 5
holes). Open holes out to 1/8 (#30).
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Step 3
Clamp a furring strip to the top side of the wing in four places. Turn the wing over and lay flap and
aileron in their respective place, see figure 13.1. Clamp a spacer between Aileron and flap, see
figure13.2. Measure the amount of flap and aileron extending beyond wing tip and root and center.
Now equal distances are hanging over. Mark center line at ribs 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, & 9 onto Aileron & Flap
spar tube. This mark is where the hinge & bell crank arm are located.
Figure 13.1

Figure 13.2

14. FLAP HINGES


STEP 1
Identify the 2 flap bell cranks, W-0450, together with the 4 hinges, W-0460, and bronze bushings, W0470. With each component secured in a vice, ream the bush housings with a 5/16 reamer. The bronze
bushings should be an easy push fit. **Note: Do not drill ends of bell crank to 5/16**
STEP 2
Scuff the powder coating from the mating faces of all 6 components. Mark out, center punch and
drill 1/16 pilot holes in the center and at each corner of the W-0460 hinges, ensuring that there is a
minimum edge distance of for the corner holes. Do the same for the bell cranks (2 x5 holes). Open
holes out to 1/8 (No 30).
15. INSTALLATION OF AILERON HINGES AND BELLCRANK
The hinges will be fitted to the aileron spar to align with the center lines of rib 5 and 9. The bell
crank will similarly be fitted to align with rib 7s center line. All fittings are attached such that the
hinge bushing is on the underside of the aileron/flap.
STEP 1
** THIS STEP IS ESSENTIAL**
As a cross check, put the aileron up to the wing and ensure that each mark aligns exactly with the
center of the respective rib web. Make minor adjustments as necessary.
STEP 2
Temporarily attach the outer hinges, W-0360, to the aileron spar with hose clamps ensuring that the
fore and aft center line of the hinge bushing coincides with the marks made at 15 Step 1 (see Figure
15.1) and that the center of the bushing itself is 9 from the rear edge of the trailing edge. See
Drawing 11.1 and figure 15.2
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Figure 15.1

STEP 3
Temporarily attach the bell crank (W-0340.0 left aileron/W-0350.0 right aileron) following the
instructions at Step 3, to align with the center line of rib 7. See figure 15.2

Figure 15.2

STEP 4
Recheck that all 3 hinges are correctly and accurately set. Mark the perimeter of each fitting with a
fine line felt marker (see Figure 15.1).
STEP 5
Using the holes previously drilled in the hinges and bell crank, drill the spar i.e. all holes not covered
by the hose clamps. Fit Clecos. Remove the hose clamps and drill the remaining holes to the same
procedure.
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STEP 6
Remove hinges and bell crank, deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100 grit
emery cloth. Thoroughly clean all mating faces as previously described.
STEP 7
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to each mating face. Finally, rivet
fittings in place with rivets supplied, CCP44, and remove surplus adhesive from around joints. See
figures 15.3 and15.4.

Figure 15.3

Figure 15.4

16 FLAP HINGE AND BELLCRANK


The hinges will be fitted to the flap spar to align with the center line of wing rib 1 and 4. The bell
crank will similarly be fitted to align with rib 2 center line. All fittings are attached such that the hinge
bushing is on the underside of the flap.
STEP 1
With the aileron positioned, put the flap spar tube up to the wing with a packing between it and
the aileron. Make a mark on the other end of the spar tube in line with the inboard face of the root rib
cap strip. At the same time, mark the spar tube with the center line of rib 1, 2 and 4 and webs. This is
where the hinge center lines will be located.
STEP 2
Locate the bell crank, W-0450, and hinge, W0460, and temporarily attach to the spar tube using
hose clamps. Align the center line of each hinge and bell crank with the marked lines the bell crank is
aligned with the rib 2 mark and the plain hinge with the ribs 1 and 4 mark. Refer to Drawing 11.1on
page 6, and position the center of the bushing 10 from the rear edge of the trailing edge. Remember
the pivot points are on the underside of the flap.
STEP 3
Recheck that both hinge and bell crank are correctly set by putting the flap up to the wing. Mark the
perimeter of each fitting with a fine line felt marker.
STEP 4
Using the holes previously drilled in the hinge and bell crank - i.e. all holes not covered by the hose
clamps - drill the spar. Fit Clecos. Remove the hose clamps and drill the remaining holes to the same
procedure.
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STEP 5
Remove hinges and bell crank. Deburr all holes and abrade the spar tube where marked with 100 grit
emery cloth. Thoroughly clean all mating faces as previously described.

STEP 6
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating to each mating face. Finally, rivet
fittings in place with rivets, CCP-44, supplied and remove surplus adhesive from around joints.

17.

INSTALLATION OF AILERON LEADING EDGE

STEP 1
Leading edge material is of preformed fiberglass, W-0390. Each length provides one aileron or one
flap leading edge. From a piece, first square off one end and then cut to length, again squaring off and
finishing to the Rib Ends. Cutting thin fiberglass is best done with a very fine blade metalworking saw,
and dressing to marked lines is best done using medium grade abrasive paper bonded to a suitable
wood block or purpose made sanding block. You may want to leave the trimming to length until after it
has been fitted, use the cap strip outer edge as a guide.
STEP 2
Fit the W-0390 leading edge onto the aileron and secure with masking tape. The leading edge should
butt up to the rib cap strips. Remove a minimum of material to clear the hinges and bell crank. Mark
where any excess will need to be trimmed off and use a straight edge to draw a trim line on the upper
and lower surfaces. You can see the cap strips through the fiberglass which you use as a guide.
Remove the leading edge and cut off the waste. This can best be done with sharp metal shears as
shown in figure 17.1 and the cut edge finally dressed as described in 8.4 Step 1, see figure 17.2.

STEP 3
Refit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Mark the inside and outside position of each rib
web, top and bottom, with a fine line felt marker.

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Figure 17.1

Figure 17.2

STEP 4
For the false ribs (W-0400) mark the following positions as centers for false ribs, 1 from inboard
edge, 1 1/8 from the outboard edge and 5/16 either side of the bell crank center line (i.e. leaving a 5/8
gap) and center two ribs in the other bays.

STEP 5
Lightly abrade the inside of the leading edge at all the main and false rib locations using 240 grade
emery cloth and thoroughly clean as previously described.

STEP 6
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating all round the nose of each false rib and
locate them at the correct positions inside the leading edge. Make sure that they are perpendicular and
square and secure with masking tape. If necessary build up a small fillet either side of each false rib,
but remove any extruding adhesive from around the inside faces of the ribs where the hinges are
located. See figure 17.3

STEP 7
Apply a generous coating of epoxy to the noses of the main ribs, noting the guidance at 17.4, Step 6.
Fit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Ensure that the false ribs are epoxy bonded to the
spar and check squareness and tape in place. Set aside to cure. See figure 17.3
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Figure 17.3

STEP 8
When dry use a sanding block to reduce the height of the front edge of the upper and lower rib cap
strips to provide a smooth transition from the fiberglass leading edge. Remove wood not fiberglass!
Apply a little lightweight filler as necessary to help the transitions.
STEP 9
Remove the fiberglass leading edge material between the rib noses at each of the 3 hinge points and
dress back to the inside faces of the ribs. See figure 17.4 These cuts extend from the bottom trailing
edge of the leading edge to from the trailing edge of the leading edge top surface.

Figure 17.4

18 INSTALLATION OF FLAP LEADING EDGE


STEP 1
Leading edge material is made of preformed fiberglass, W-0390. Each length provides one aileron or
one flap leading edge. Cutting thin fiberglass is best done with a very fine blade metalworking saw, and
dressing to marked lines is best done using medium grade abrasive paper bonded to a suitable wood
block or purpose made sanding block. Start by squaring off one end. You may want to leave the
trimming to length until after it has been fitted, (as there may be variation in length) use the cap strip
outer edge as a guide.
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STEP 2
Fit the W-0390 leading edge onto the aileron and secure with masking tape. The leading edge should
butt up to the rib cap strips. Remove a minimum of material to clear the hinge and bell crank. Mark
where any excess will need to be trimmed off and use a straight edge to draw a trim line on the upper
and lower surfaces, you can see the cap strips through the fiberglass which you use as a guide. Remove
the leading edge and cut off the waste. This can best be done with sharp metal shears as shown in
figure 17.1 and the cut edge finally dressed as described in 8.4, Step 1,see figure 17.2
STEP 3
Refit the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Mark the inside and outside position of each rib
web, top and bottom, with a fine line felt marker.
STEP 4
False ribs (w-0400) provide support for the leading edge when the covering material is shrunk over
it. This support is especially necessary where openings for the hinges and bellcranks are made.
Mark locations as centers for false ribs in each flap, starting at the inboard end:
At the inboard hinge, mark 5/16 outboard of the hinge centerline, and space two more marks
evenly in the remaining part of that bay.
Space two marks evenly in the next bay.
Mark 5/16 either side of the bell crank centerline, and center one more mark in the remaining
part of that bay.
Space two marks evenly in the next bay.
Mark 5/16 either side of the outboard hinge centerline, and center one mark on each side in the
space remaining between those original marks and the adjacent ribs.
STEP 5
Lightly abrade the inside of the leading edge at all the main and false rib locations using 240 grade
emery cloth and thoroughly clean as previously described.
STEP 6
Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive and apply a generous coating all round the nose of each false rib and
locate them at the correct positions inside the leading edge. Make sure that they are perpendicular and
square and secure with masking tape. If necessary build up a small fillet either side of each false rib,
but remove any extruding adhesive from around the inside faces of the ribs where the hinge and bell
crank are located.
STEP 7
Apply a generous coating of epoxy to the noses of the main ribs, noting the guidance at Step 6. Fit
the leading edge and secure with masking tape. Ensure that the false ribs are epoxy bonded to the spar
and check squareness and tape in place. Set aside to cure.
STEP 8
When dry use a sanding block to reduce the height of the front edge of the upper and lower rib cap
strips to provide a smooth transition from the fiberglass leading edge. Remove wood not fiberglass!
Apply a little lightweight filler as necessary to help the transitions.

69

STEP 9
Remove the fiberglass leading edge material between the rib noses at the hinge and bell crank points
and dress back to the inside faces of the ribs. These cuts extend from the bottom trailing edge of the
leading edge to from the trailing edge of the leading edge top surface. See figure 18.1 and 18.2

Figure 18.1
figure 18.2
19 FITTING AILERON TO WING
STEP 1
Fit the bronze bushings, W-0370, into the 6 pivot points of the ailerons. Lightly press them into
place. On final assembly the hinge bracket will pinch the bearing, so that the hinge and bell crank will
rotate on the bearing, not the bearing rotating on the bolt.
STEP 2
Identify the W-0480 hinge brackets and assemble at ribs 5, 7, and 9. One pilot drilled and one not
drilled. Number each plate of each pair e.g. 1a/b, 2a/b etc, so they stay in their pairs.
Pass both hinges through slots in trailing edge and clamp ( 1 hinge drilled, 1 hinge not drilled ).Use
deep clamps to clear rib web, when alignment is satisfied drill plates using drill plate as a guide. Mark
both plates as a pair.
Ream out the bolt holes to 3/16. Assemble one pair to each of the flap hinges using this method;
Place an AN960-10 washer onto an AN3-6A bolt, put this through the flap hinge, place another
AN960-10 washer on the bolt and secure with an AN365-1032 nut (upon final installation of this
assembly tighten these nuts securely).
STEP 3
Put the aileron up to the wing and carefully pass the hinge brackets through the slots cut in the wing
trailing edge. Temporarily clamp the W-0410 hinge brackets to the rib webs.
STEP 4
Cut small scraps of 1/8 ply and insert them between the nose of the aileron and the wing trailing
edge section. Attach to the aileron with masking tape to aid further adjustments.
Step 5
To set the proper gap and alignment of aileron and flaps, turn wing bottom side up. Install straight
edge, (metal, wood, etc.) on top of the wing rib just extending far enough to get into rib contour. This
aligns the top of the air foil with the ribs.
70

A slight difference at wing tips is normal (wash out). The length of the aileron and flap should match
when in the neutral position at the trailing edge.

Square straight
edge, metal, wood,
etc.

*Clamp at these points to make control surface flush with top of wing, wing should be upside down.

STEP 6
Further adjust the aileron until it aligns correctly with the wing and the 1/8 packing is snug in the
gap. Clamp the hinge brackets securely. When the aileron articulates 30 degrees up and 30 degrees
down you are ready to drill and rivet the hinge brackets.
71

To get an accurate and pleasing alignment, it is better to align the flap and aileron at the same
time
Step 7
Carefully drill the rib webs for the hinge brackets. To start, drill one corner hole just into the web,
rotate the other plate to one side and continue the drilling right through the web.
Use a Cleco to hold the 2 plates together on either side of the drilled hole re-align the 2 plates holes
and re-clamp. With the plates now aligned proceed to drill the remaining 3 holes.
STEP 8
Remove the hinge brackets in pairs, abrade mating faces with 240 grit emery cloth and clean as
previously described. Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive, apply a generous coat to the mating faces,
relocate and re-secure. Finally, rivet with SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivets.

20 FITTING FLAP TO WING


STEP 1
Fit the bronze bushings, W-0470, into the 3 pivot points each flap. Lightly press them into place. On
final assembly the hinge bracket will pinch the bearing, so that the hinge and bell crank will rotate on
the bearing, not the bearing rotating on the bolt.
STEP 2
Identify the W-0480 hinge brackets and assemble at ribs 1, 2, and 4. One pilot drilled and one not
drilled. Number each plate of each pair e.g. 1a/b, 2a/b etc, so they stay in their pairs.
Pass both hinges through slots in trailing edge and clamp ( 1 hinge drilled, 1 hinge not drilled ).Use
deep clamps to clear rib web, when alignment is satisfied drill plates using drill plate as a guide. Mark
both plates as a pair.
Ream out the bolt holes to 3/16. Assemble one pair to each of the flap hinges using this method;
Place an AN960-10 washer onto an AN3-6A bolt, put this through the flap hinge, place another
AN960-10 washer on the bolt and secure with an AN365-1032 nut (upon final installation of this
assembly tighten these nuts securely).
STEP 3
Put the flap up to the wing and carefully pass the hinges through the slots cut in the wing trailing
edge. Temporarily clamp the W-0480 brackets to the rib webs.

STEP 4
Cut small scraps of 1/8 ply and insert them between the nose of the flap and the wing trailing edge
section. Attach to the flap with masking tape to aid further adjustments.

STEP 5
Further adjust the flap until it aligns correctly with the wing and the 1/8 packing is snug in the gap.
Clamp the hinge brackets securely. When the flap articulates 40 degrees down you are ready to drill
and rivet the hinge brackets.
72

To get an accurate and pleasing alignment, it is better to align the flap and aileron at the same time.

STEP 6
Use a Cleco to hold the 2 plates together on either side of the drilled hole re-align the 2 plate holes
and re-clamp. With the plate now aligned proceed to drill the remaining 3 holes.
STEP 7
Remove the hinge brackets in pairs, abrade mating faces with 240 grit emery cloth and clean as
previously described. Mix sufficient epoxy adhesive; apply a generous coat to the mating faces, relocate and re-secure. Finally, rivet with the 1/8 x S.S. rivets supplied.

STEP 8
Notice the flap bell crank has only one horn, not two like the aileron. The up-travel of the flap is
facilitated by a return spring. This spring, W-0680, attaches to the flap return tab, W-0695.0 and the W0690 attach tab that is held in place by the flap pulley bolt. See figure 20.1
73

Flap Return Spring


attach bracket
W0695.0

Flap Bellcrank

Flap return spring


W-0680

W-0690 pulley
attach bracket

Figure 20.1

The bracket, W-0695.0, is mounted on the flap spar turned up until it touches the top of the fiberglass
leading edge then its epoxy bonded and riveted in place with rivets, CCP-44. The other end of the
spring will hook onto the flap return tab, W-0690, which is mounted under the head of the flap pulley
mounting bolt, AN4-10.
*Note: Wing is upside down in pictures*
Measure from top of the trailing edge and make a horizontal mark at 7/8 and another at 2 1/8. Make
a vertical mark in line with the center of the flap pulley bolt. Drill a 1/8 hole at the two intersections,
and then open those holes up to . After those holes are made, connect the two circles to form an oval
slot for the flap return spring. Remember, the wing is upside down in the pictures.
74

21 PREPARING AILERON FOR COVERING


STEP 1
Drill 1/8 holes for the fabric rivets with 3 spacing starting at 1 from the trailing edge. These rivet
holes should be as close to the main rib as you can get them without going into the rib.
Step 2
Fabric backing plates should be placed on each hinge and bell crank on the bottom side only. These
are made from materials supplied according to templates provided in the template section of the
manual.

75

Step 3
As for other structures, lightweight body filler (bondo, not supplied in kit) is used over and to hide
the rivets and provide smooth transitions between surfaces, but beware that this adds weight and you
will be surprised how easily your airplane gains pounds.
Step 4
When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars and ribs should be covered with
two or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish, making sure that NO varnish gets on to any
surface that is going to need gluing for fabric.
22 PREPARING FLAP FOR COVERING
STEP 1
Drill 1/8 holes for the fabric rivets with 3 spacing starting at 1 from the trailing edge. These rivet
holes should be as close to the main rib as you can get them without going into the rib.
As for other structures, lightweight body filler is used to hide the rivets and provide smooth
transitions between surfaces.
STEP 2
Fabric backing plates should be placed on each hinge and bell crank on the bottom side only. These
are made from materials supplied according to templates provided in the template section of the
manual.
Step 3
As for other structures, lightweight body filler is used to hide the rivets and provide smooth
transitions between surfaces.
Step 4
When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars and ribs should be covered with
two or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish, making sure that NO varnish gets on to any
surface that is going to need gluing for fabric.
23. MOUNTING THE AILERON PULLEYS
The ailerons are operated by cables, which run over a system of pulleys.
76

The up-aileron cable runs from the top aileron bell crank over a pulley - turning the cable parallel to
the center line of the rear wing spar - through ribs 1-6 to a pulley on the head rack in the fuselage.
Next, it travels down through a fairlead to a pulley at the rear of the seat frame (near the wing lift strut
attachment point) and then via a pulley on the front of the seat frame to the base of the control stick.
The two control sticks are linked in the middle; the aileron cables are connected to the right stick for
right aileron and left stick for left aileron.
The down-aileron cable runs from the bottom aileron bell crank over a pulley - turning the cable
parallel to the center line of the rear spar - through ribs 1-6 on to the center of the fuselage, where both
left and right down-aileron cables join on the fuselage center line at an adjustable turnbuckle.
The W-0500 pulley blocks are the same for both flap and ailerons.
The following procedure applies to both wings.

STEP 1
Temporarily mount the aileron and use your positioning templates (see Chapter 8.5, Step 5) to set
them to the neutral position; this will help with alignment.

STEP 2
Mark out and center punch the 4 mounting holes (one in each corner) in the sole plate of the pulley
blocks, ensuring a minimum edge distance. Drill the holes 1/8 (No 30) diameter. Also ream for
the AN4-10A bolts that will be used to hold the pulley in the block.

STEP 3
Temporarily fit the W-0530 pulley into the arms of the pulley block.

STEP 4
The aileron pulley blocks are positioned one above the other on the rear spar tube near to the inboard
face of rib 7. The sole plate should be approximately from the rib web. The pulley edge should be
as close as possible to the rib web, so that the rib web acts as a cable keeper (but not so close that the
pulley is jammed), and in line with the aileron cable attachment horn (use a long drill bit in the groove
of the pulley to align it to the horn). The top pulley will be approximately below the rib cap strip;
the edge of the bottom pulley will be approx. 9/16 below the trailing edge. Clamp the pulley blocks to
the spar tube, ensuring that the pulleys align to the spar axis. You will need to remove material from
the cap strips to achieve line up and clearance. See Figures 23.1.4a, b, c and d.
In the ailerons neutral position, the eye of the horn should be - as close as possible - in line with the
pulley groove.
77

Figure 10.1.4b

Figure 23.1.b

Figure 23.1.A

Figure 23.1.C

Top aileron pulley block


Note cutout in capstrip and
trailing edge.

Figure 23.1.D
Example of drill bit being used for alignment

78

STEP 5
Recheck position of pulley block then drill mounting holes 1/8 (No. 30) diameter into spar. Use
Clecos to hold block in position while drilling.

STEP 6
Deburr, remove the powder coating from the mounting face of bracket, and abrade the spar with 100grade emery cloth and clean mounting faces as previously directed.

STEP 7
Secure pulley block to spar with epoxy adhesive and CCP-44 rivets.
STEP 8
All pulleys have a W-0520 cable keeper, which is positioned so as to keep the cable in the pulley
groove when the cable is relaxed. Mount the W-0530 pulley into the pulley block with AN4-10A bolts,
AN960-416 washers, AN365-428 nuts. The cable keeper is normally under the head of the bolt. For
ease of access later, the bolt in the top pulley should be installed upside down. This is to facilitate
future removal after the wing has been covered. If necessary trim the rib capstrip away further, just
enough to allow the pulley to be fitted. See figure 23.2b
Trim away some of the top trailing edge in order to get a straight run of cable from the top pulley to
the top aileron cable attachment horn when aileron is in the down position. See figure 23.2a

Figure 23.2a

Figure 23.2b

79

24. MOUNTING THE FLAP PULLEYS


STEP 1
Temporarily mount the flap. Use templates (see Chapter 8.5, Step 5) to set to neutral position. This
will help with alignment.
STEP 2
The flap cable pulley brackets, W-0500, are mounted on the rear spar tube next to the inner face of
the rib 2 web. The spacing from the web and the alignment with the flap horn, together with the fitting
procedure, are as described for the aileron pulley brackets in Chapter 10.1 steps 1-7, except that the
bottom of the pulley will be approx 7/8 from the bottom of the trailing edge and the cable should be in
the middle of the pulley when the flap is approximately at the 20 degrees down angle (i.e. the
operational midpoint). See Figures 24.1a and b.

FIGURE 24.1A

FIGURE 24.1B

STEP 3
All pulleys have a W-0520 cable keeper, which is positioned so as to keep the cable in the pulley
groove when the cable is relaxed.
Mount the W-0610 pulley into the pulley block with AN4-10A bolts. The cable keeper is normally
under the head of the bolt. For ease of access later the nuts should be on the bottom, Further trim away
(if necessary) the rib cap strip just enough to allow the pulley to be fitted.
Note: Remember that this pulley bolt also has the flap return spring attach bracket W-0690 on it.

80

25. AILERON AND FLAP CONTROL STOPS

Limiting the movement of the stick from side to side by the geometry of the control stick towers
provides aileron primary control stop.
Flap control stop is only required for the up position and this is controlled by cable tension.
26 BUTT RIBS AND WINDSHIELD BRACKETS
The butt ribs W-0280.0/1 are positioned when the wings are in place (be prepared to open and close
the wings a few times to get the positioning correct) as follows:
STEP 1
The fixing lugs W-0290 (T pieces attached to the butt rib) are housed in tubular bushings on the
airframe and can have their length adjusted to position the butt rib as close as possible to the wing root
rib (a small 1/16 gap is all that is required). The butt rib should be positioned so that it accurately
aligns with the wing root rib over its whole profile. Hold the butt rib to the fixing lugs with clamps,
remove from airframe and drill and secure the lug to the butt rib with SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless
rivets. * Refit to airframe and secure the lugs in the tubular bushings with CCP42 1/8 x 1/4 Stainless
1/8 x rivets. See figure 26.1. Butt ribs: mark out end ribs for control cables. Slide root ribs on to
front and rear spars. Install wing joint doublers. Fit wing to fuselage head rack tubes.

*Note: Remove burs from top of head rack tubes and level front to back and side to side.
With spar pins in, fit gas tanks to spars. Slide the tank against rib #2 and slide rib #1 snug against gas
tank. Leave just enough room so that the gas tank can be removed. Mark rib locations and remove the
tanks. Trim and tape butt rib to end rib #1. Align end ribs #1 to the previous marks. Fit and clamp the T
pins to the butt ribs. Epoxy and rivet T pins to butt ribs and fuselage all at the same time. Replace the
gas tank so that you can ensure a good fit. *Note: The tanks will be permanently installed later.

Optionally
Fabric across
this gap

Figure 26.1

*This job should be after wing tank installation

81

STEP 2
Once the butt ribs are fixed in place you can then (optionally) use fabric to seal the gap between the
butt rib (bottom surface) and the head rack tube. Normal fabric procedure is employed. See figure 26.1

STEP 3
The F-2200 rear windshield bracket is positioned centrally on the rear head rack tube and locates to
the 6 tabs. Open up the holes in the tabs to 1/8. Fix in place by marking through the tabs into the
bracket and drilling holes for the AD44ABSLF 1/8 x Large Head Aluminum rivets, see Figure 26.2.
Top of bracket faces aft. When installed, the F-2220 Lexan windshield assembly will be riveted to this
bracket. Before final assembly the bracket(s) should be painted, clean and prime with aluminum primer
before final painting.

Figure26.2

27 INSTALLING THE PITOT TUBE


The air speed indicator is activated by the air pressure differential between the slipstream of air
entering the pitot tube and the static pressure. The pitot W-0740 probe is mounted in the undisturbed
flow of air on rib five 8 1/2 back from the leading edge. See Figure 27.1

Figure 27.1

82

STEP 1
Position pitot tube and secure it to rib 5 with safety wire (not too tight or you will restrict the air
flow). The tube should extend about 5 down into the airflow with the lower end parallel to the rib and
pointing forward, see Figure 28.1 . Use epoxy to secure the wire and tube to the rib.
STEP 2
Fit the tubing (W-0770) to the end of the tube using the connector provided (W-0760).
STEP 3
The method for routing the pitot tube is to drill & ream a hole at a 45 degree angle into the rear
spar and run the tube inside spar tube. It is recommended that the hole be put into the epoxy joint at rib
2.

Figure 27.2

STEP 4
Although not provided, it is good practice to install an inspection panel (available from your aircraft
supply store) next to the pitot tube to make internal inspection and replacement easier.
STEP 5
During final assembly, the tube will exit the spar tube in front of the connecting bolt and pass along
the butt rib on the head rack, down the windscreen side bracket and into the space behind the
instrument panel where it is connected to the instruments. To make wing dis-assembly easier, a
connector (F-0760) is provided to enable you to put a joint in the tube where it exits the wing.
28 FABRIC PLATES
Full size templates are given at Appendix A. All fabric plates are made from .040 aluminum sheet
and are held in position by 11826-00029 3/32 x 1/8 flush aluminum rivets that will be countersunk.
The exceptions are the two outside holes that were left open over the lift strut attach brackets, use
83

SSD48SSBS 1/8 x Stainless rivet. See Figures 28.1a, b, c and d.


The following fabric glue-down plates are required:
Around the front lift strut brackets (2, mirror image)
Around the rear lift strut brackets (2, mirror image)
Around the aileron cable upper wing exit points to bell crank (2, mirror image)
Around the aileron cable lower wing exit points to bell crank (2, mirror image)
Around the flap pulley in wing (2, mirror image).
Cover plates are needed for the aileron under wing glue down plates (2, mirror image)
A cover plate is required for the flap pulleys (2, mirror image).

Figure 28.1A
Figure 28.1B
Views of the fabric plates used on this strut bracket. Install two rivets and they will hold the plate
in position. Light weight filler has been used to cover / blend the rivets.

Figure 28.1C
Bottom and top Aileron fabric plates.
*Note* they are riveted to the trailing edge.

Figure 28.1D

84

29. GETTING THE WINGS READY FOR COVERING


If you have not previously done so, now is the time to fix the false ribs to your wings.
STEP 1
Two false ribs are positioned (equally spaced) in each main rib bay. Mark these positions on the front
spar and stringer and clean ready for epoxy bonding.

STEP 2
False ribs are positioned so that the leading edge sits on the front spar, in line with the main rib
leading edge line, and the rear sits on the stringer.

STEP 3
To stop wear of the fabric where it lays over the false ribs, it is advisable to cover the top surface of
the false ribs with reinforcing or surgical tape. See Figure 29.1

Figure 29.1

STEP 4
The wing needs to be prepared for covering by being smooth to the touch. Run your hand over the
wing: if you can feel an irregularity, you will see the irregularity when the plane is covered and painted.
Use a good lightweight body filler to smooth out the irregularities and fill any staple holes etc. Use the
body filler to make smooth transitions e.g. ribs onto front spar, trailing edge onto ribs and around rivet
heads etc. See Figures 29.2a h.

85

Figure 29.2b: Use filler to finish areas


Figure 29.2a: filler applied to trailing edge

were the rib meets spar

before sanding.

Figure 29.2c: Sanding the filler. Note: Be very

careful when sanding around spars. Do not sand


with sand paper over 360-grit and do not remove
any metal from spars with the sanding.

Figure 29.2d: Another view showing

sanding block

Figure 29.2E; Photo of finished junction


Of rib and spar

Figure 29.2F: Finished Trailing Edge

86

Figure 29.2g: Bottom view of front strut attach bracket with

fabric reinforcement plate installed. Note: filler was used


over the strut bracket to hide the rivets. This looks very
good, but everything you do in this way adds weight and you
will be surprised how easily your airplane gains pounds

Figure 29.2h: Finished trailing

edge.

STEP 5
Once it is covered you will not be able to get inside the wing, so make sure that all internal
components are properly protected.
When all irregularities have been removed all surfaces of the spars, aluminum drag tube and ribs
these should be covered with two or three coats of two-part polyurethane varnish.
Note: Before you apply the varnish, carefully mask up the areas that will have fabric attached
by glue - these areas must NOT have any varnish on them. This refers to all cap strips, trailing
edges and the leading edge of front spar.
30 WING TIPS
The wing kit is supplied with Horner style wing tips W-0810.
If optional strobes are to be used, now is the time to position and trial fit the W-0810.1 strobe light
mount onto the wing tip. Once a suitable fit is obtained, mark position with a sharpie. Using course
sand paper scuff the area you marked and inside of the strobe light mount. Epoxy the strobe light
mount onto the wing tip. (Make sure you get a good solid bond on the epoxy)
STEP 1
First decide whether you want to be able to remove the tips or whether they are going to become an
integral part of the wing, the main difference being that for permanent fixture the tip is fitted before
covering and the fabric extends to include the tips. Having removable tips necessitates the insertion of
an epoxy bead along the cap strip/rib web junction of rib 9; this is to give additional material for selftapping screws/rivets to grip into. For the removable method it is a good idea to pre-fit the tip. Also
K1000 nut plates can be installed on inboard side of rib 9 to facilitate screws for removable tips.See
figure 30.1
87

Figure 30.1

STEP 2
Trim to scribe line.
STEP 3
Overlap wing tip onto end rib spar cap; use clamps to hold in place.
STEP 4
Fit aileron to aid alignment.
STEP 5
Line up the trailing edge of the wing tip with the trailing edge of the aileron in neutral position (use
the alignment template). Some cutting to length will be required, but be careful: you must have the
trailing edge of the tip at the same level as the aileron in neutral.
STEP 6
Notch out the wing tip to allow for aileron movement, there should be a gap between the aileron
edge and the tip, see Drawing 30.2 below.

88

Step 3

Scribe
line

Step
6

Ply
Wood

DRAWING
30.2
Trailing
edge

Note: Notch will be approximately 2, this allows the


aileron to extend past the No 9 rib and gives a
gap between the edge of aileron and tip.

STEP 7
Cut a triangular piece of plywood (not supplied). This is bonded between the two fiberglass
surfaces of the wing tip to act as a stiffener and is held in place by inserting rivet shanks through the
glass and ply wood. A small strip of ply could also be fitted to seal the gap between the end of the wing
and the triangular piece just fitted.

STEP 8
Fit the tip onto the wing making sure the leading edge is tight against the spar tube. (Some sanding on
the inside of the wing tip is required). The inside edge of the wing tip sits flush with the inside edge of
rib 9. Make sure the wing tip is level with the wing as you will be setting the aileron to this for rigging
later. Match drill the nut plate holes into the rib. See Figures 30.3a and b.
89

Figure 30.3a

Figure 30.3b

For fixed option


Glue the tip to the spar cap with epoxy and (flush) rivet it on the seam at 5 intervals (on alternate sides of cap
strip not through center into rib web).

The surface of the tips may need some work to remove minor blemishes etc. use lightweight filler
and a sanding block to get a smooth finish (applies to all tip types/fitting methods).

31. Install all Pulleys and cables


AILERON CONTROL CABLES FIRST STAGE MAKE UP
STEP 1
For the down-aileron cable take the W-0550 cable and measure the length (15) necessary to run from
the aileron bottom horn, through the lower pulley and parallel to the rear spar tube on to the fuselage
center line. Cut 2 lengths of this measurement.

SEE FULL SIZED RIB CABLE OUTLET TEMPLATE, IN TEMPLATE


SECTION LOCATED IN THE BACK OF YOUR MANUAL.
STEP 2
For the up-aileron cable, take the remaining W-0550 cable and measure the length necessary to run
from the aileron top horn, through the upper pulley, through ribs 6 to 1, through the head rack pulley,
through the fairlead around the rear seat frame pulley, around the front seat frame pulley and onto the
control column. Cut 2 lengths of this (approx. 15).

90

STEP 3
On one end of each cable fit a W-0560 Nicopress sleeve and W-0570 thimble. With the cable snugly
fitted around the thimble, and the sleeve right up against the thimble, crush the sleeve with an approved
tool. Trim the cable free end to from the sleeve then fit and shrink an enclosing length of heat
shrink tubing.
FLAP CONTROL CABLES FIRST STAGE MAKE UP
STEP 1
For the flap cables, take the 3-32 cable and cut two pieces 8 long.
STEP 2
On one end of each cable fit a Nicopress sleeve and thimble. With the cable snugly fitted around the
thimble and the sleeve right up against the thimble crush the sleeve with an approved tool. Trim the
cable free end to from the sleeve, then fit and shrink an enclosing length of heat shrink tubing.

ROUTING OF AILERON CABLES


The down-aileron cable needs to run from the pulley through the rib webs to the center joining point
in as straight a line as possible. You should use the templates provided to drill the holes for cable runs.
Drill 1/8 holes first and enlarge to 5/16.
STEP 1
Make up 14 cable guides per wing - approximately 2 long - for each wing from the W-0580 material
supplied. These are inserted into the holes drilled in the rib web. They should be positioned so that the
cable still runs in a straight line through the center of the hole in the rib and the hole in the guide. see
Figures 31.1a and b.

Figure 31.1a

Figure 31.1b

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STEP 2
Attach the down-aileron cable to the bottom of the aileron horn using the W-0590 shackles and AN3-5
bolts with AN310-3 nuts and AN380-2-2 cotter pins provided; pass it around the bottom pulley inside
the keepers then through the nylon guide tube in ribs 1-6.
STEP 3
Attach the up-aileron cable to the top of the aileron horn using the W-0590 shackles and AN3-5 bolts
provided, pass it around the bottom pulley inside the keepers then through the nylon guide tube in ribs
1- 6.
ROUTING OF FLAP CABLES
The route of the flap cables is from the control horn over the pulley (which turns the cable to run
forward parallel to the spar tube), through a nylon guide in rib 1, onto the head rack pulley (outer
pulley), through the fairlead, onto the turnbuckle (for ease of removal/adjustment), down to the pulley
at the rear of the seat frame, onto the pulley at the center of the rear seat frame then over the pulley on
the end of the flap handle attachment brackets. It is then attached to the flap lever itself.

STEP 1
Drill a 5/16 (8mm is perfect!) diameter hole in the rib web, using the templates provided.
STEP 2
From the W-0580 material supplied make up a cable guide for each wings root rib approximately 2
long. These are then inserted into the holes drilled in the rib web. You may use epoxy to bond them in
place if you wish.
STEP 3
Attach the cable to the flap horn using the W-0660 shackles and AN3-5 bolts provided, pass it around
the pulley inside the keeper then through the nylon guide tube in rib 1.
FINALIZING AILERON CABLE RUNS
The cable runs can be completed when the control sticks are fitted and the wings are in position.
However, it is probably better to do this when the aircraft has been covered and painted and is in final
assembly.

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STEP 1
Head rack pulleys for both flap (F-3010) and aileron (F-3000) are fitted as a pair using AN4-30A
bolts and with each pulley having its own cable keeper. The mounting sequence is: bolt, keeper, flap
pulley, aileron pulley, and keeper, head rack bushing, washer and then the nut. See Figures 31.2a and b

Figure 31.2a

Figure 31.2b

STEP 2
Using AN4-17A (front) & AN4-17A (rear) bolts; fit the F-1600 aileron control pulleys - together with
their cable keepers - at the fuselage locations front and rear of the seat frame. See Figures 31.3a & b.

Figure 31.3a (front pulley)


(Side view, from outside fuselage)

Figure 31.3b (rear pulley)


(Bottom lift strut attach bracket visible to right)

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STEP 3
Fit the nylon fair leads F-3030 into the fuselage bushings and secure with the clip provided. It is
suggested that you also install the fair leads for the flap cables at this time. See Figure 31.4.A

Figure 31.4.A

Figure 31.4.B
To summarize - so far, the aileron cable exits the wing and is fed through the head rack pulley,
through the two plastic fair leads bushings.
STEP 4
Turnbuckles for adjustment/easy disconnect are fitted in the cable between the fair lead and the rear
seat frame pulley. Use Nicopress sleeves and thimbles. Adjust the turnbuckle to its mid position and
secure the cables to the turnbuckle with Nicopress sleeves. See Figure 31.4.B
STEP 5
Feed the cable through the rear aileron control pulley then feed it through the front pulley.
STEP 6
Finally, attach the cable to the control sticks. Use Nicopress sleeve and thimble to make the
attachment, and connect using shackle and the AN3-5 bolts.

STEP 7
Join the up-aileron cables on the fuselage center line with a single turnbuckle; secure the cables to the
turnbuckles with Nicopress sleeve and thimble assemblies.
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Notes: When fitting the Nicopress sleeve etc., ensure that the turnbuckles are in the central position
and that the ailerons are set to their neutral position. Final adjustment will be made using the
turnbuckles, so be careful about cable lengths before Nicopress sleeving them as the sleeves cannot be
undone, if you get it wrong a new cable will have to be installed. Finish with heat shrink tubing as
described previously.
All turnbuckles will need to be clipped or lock wired after final adjustment.
FINALIZING FLAP CABLE RUNS
The cable runs can be completed when the flap handle and plates have been fitted and the wings are in
position. However it is probably better to do this when the aircraft has been covered and painted and is
in final assembly.
STEP 1
Using AN4-15A bolts fit the flap control pulleys to the rear seat frame at the bottom of the head rack,
see Figure 9.5a.
STEP 2
Using AN4-17A bolts fit the flap control pulleys to the center of the rear seat frames, see Figure 31.5b.
Dont forget the cable keepers.

Figure 31.5a

Figure 31.5b

To summarize - so far the cable exits the wing and is fed through the head rack pulley (installed
during aileron cable setup) then down through the nylon fair lead (installed during aileron cable setup).
STEP 3
Turnbuckles (for adjustment/easy disconnect) are fitted in the cable between the fair lead and the rear
seat frame pulley. Use Nicopress sleeve and thimble. Adjust the turnbuckle to its mid position and
secure the cables to the turnbuckle with Nicopress sleeves.
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STEP 4
Feed the cable through the rear seat frame pulley (inside the cable keeper).
STEP 5
Feed the cable through the central seat frame pulley (inside the cable keeper).
STEP 6
Feed cable through the pulley on the end of the flap handle attachment plate (inside the cable keeper).
Note: be careful here, the cable must pass over the top of the pulleys otherwise the flap deployment
positions will be wrong.
STEP 7
Finally, attach the cable to the flap handle. The cable end is wrapped around the F-2510.0 cable
bushing and secured with a Nicopress sleeve. Both cable ends are attached to the flap lever using this
sequence as follows AN 3-12A bolt, AN 970-3penny washer, AN 960-10 standard washer, AN 113-3
cable bushing (with cable attached), 2 standard washers, flap handle, 2 standard washers, cable bushing
(with cable attached), standard washer, penny washer and finally the AN 3-10 castle nut with AN 3802-2 cotter pin.nut. (You will have to drill the bushings and handle with a #10 drill.)See Figure 31.6.

Figure 31.6

Notes: When fitting the Nicopress sleeve etc., ensure that the turnbuckles are in the central position
and that the flaps are set to their neutral (up - zero degrees) position. Final adjustment will be made
using the turnbuckles, so be careful about cable lengths before Nicopress sleeving them as the sleeves
cannot be undone, if you get it wrong a new cable will have to be installed. Finish with heat shrink
tubing as described previously. When drilling the flap handle do not drill to high or the bolt will
interfere with the side plates.

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